2010 Subaru Outback CVT Torque Converter Replacement
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Please Like, Comment, and Share. Be sure to subscribe for future videos. Don't forget to hit the bell icon for notifications. RUclips has changed what they show subscribers!
Subaru Specialty Tools - www.amazon.com...
Subaru OEM Parts - www.amazon.com...
Must Have Tools - www.amazon.com...
StoreFront - www.amazon.com...
If you like the vids and want to help make more: paypal.me/MrSubaru1387
----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.----
Very helpful! Thank you! It was good to hear from the dealership why my Outback kept stalling out, and even better to find out from you exactly what the labor entails, and get a better understanding of how my car works. Excellent!
Your are a good tech! I run a shop that does all Asian Imports, you are always spot on with your Subaru service. Much appreciated!
Thanks so much for this video! I feel like without this info I would have been chasing my tail. I’ve had to go back and forth with several shops and dealer on things like this that aren’t always cut and dry so it’s nice to have something to back me up.
One thing not mentioned on the reinstallation - the part that requires some patience - is that there are two flat sections on the part of the TC that goes through the oil seal. Behind the oil seal, there are two triangular "ears" that match up with the two flat spots. Knowing where those triangles are helps a lot when you go to put it back in. You don't have to spin and spin to find them. You may still have to try a few times in lining up the splines, but it's a lot easier when you at least know how the TC needs to be oriented relative to the transmission. I'm sure there are technical terms for the flat spots on the TC and the triangular ears, but somebody will have to add those for me.
How did you do that? I'm having issues lining it up with those ears, do I keep spinning it a full 360 or what? I can see the ear, I have it marked where they are and everyrhing but can seem to get the TC to fully seat into place
This happened to my 12 Ob 2.5i. It happened after coming home from the mountains in Tennessee. The Subaru Dealer had problems initially verifying the issue and tried to tell me this TSB didn’t exist. Finally got them to listen and walked them through finding the issue and had no problems with them after that. Ob ran well until my wife was involved in a hit and run by a semis trailer. Outback was totaled and sold at auction after that. Replaced with a 2017 3.6r limited.
Hi there I don't own a Subaru but was really curious as to how the CVT transmissions are repaired. Great attention to detail and thank you for the great explanation on proper procedure to fill one of these with fluid.
As always, a really nice repair video. I appreciate your insistence on attention to detail.
Thank you for this video, helping my mother in law fix her 2012 2.5L Outback which has the exact same symptoms, zero codes. We'll check with the dealer first if they'll repair this on goodwill, if not I'm doing the repair myself.
How did you make out at the dealer?
@@grizz6370 Had to apply for goodwill at Subaru of America, who turned us down (fair enough, it's got 175k miles). Ended up repairing it myself this way over the weekend, saved us a few thousand dollars in labor.
Started Saturday morning, finished Sunday evening.
@@Krisemann good move if you got the tools and a place to do because labor rate is $160/hr 😭
@@grizz6370 Definitely, but honestly you'd be surprised how few tools you really need.
Had a garage and some ratchets. All my own tools were back at home in Europe so I had to make do of what they had available. We rented an engine hoist/leveler over the weekend. You can technically do this outside, but you need to be able to get under the car (I was able to get under the car without jacking it up, though).
Pretty much everything you need besides that is a ratchet (a big one for the exhaust flange nuts), a couple extensions and 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets, plus a phillips PH2 screwdriver, a couple of pliers and a clip removal tool (flathead screwdriver worked for me). And a drain pan for coolant/CVT fluid... and something to unclip the fuel line with. A prybar is also very helpful. We did not drain the engine oil. Didn't need to clamp off the transmission cooler lines either (after all you are hopefully replacing that fluid).
If you're doing CVT fluid after (which I strongly recommend you do), get a hand pump to pump it into the fill hole. An OBD2 reader is nice to check transmission fluid temp with but not necessary.
Hey man great vid. Recently I found that my front driver side CV axles boot was ripped. It was flinging grease everywhere. Watching ur vids gave me all knowledge I needed to pop the axle out and get the boot replaced for $40. Just wanted to say thanks. 👍🏾
You're welcome. Glad to help. 👍🏻
MrSubaru1387 Thank you for the video but I have a question for you i have the same problem how much the labor if change it
@@johnsaad9770 the axle? Or torque converter?
MrSubaru1387
torque converter
I just bought the car and had the same problem when the car in low-speed and push the break turn off the car have 145,500 miles. Outback 2010
Had this issue. Brought it to the dealership because my local mechanic advised me to. They have me a $3362 invoice to do it so I guess I'll be living with the issue
There’s plenty of videos online to do pretty much any job. With the right tools you could do this yourself it’s way easier than people think…
@@vermili0n but isn't removing the engine a big pain
@@bkd2117not bad I've done them in under 8 hours front to back filled with fluids and all. 2010+ models are the easiest too
Very thankful I'm not a mechanic 🙏
You just became my new favorite channel
Thank you!!! Replacing mine in a 2010 outback with 253,000 on it wish me luck the trans holds up with new torque converter and fluid!
Geat video, I wish all Mechanics do their work as professional as you do yours. Noticed that the hanger attached to the transmission is broken.
Yup. Common failure on that exhaust hanger. My brother's 2011 Outback has the same hanger broken.
@@MrSubaru1387 same thing happened to my 2011 legacy.
Can you tell me the model number of the seal install tool you used at 5:55? I need to do the same job but don't have the correct install tool. Already ruined 2 seals. I can find some on ebay but don't know if they will fit. Thanks.
Having done this on my 2011 outback, its much easier to pull the engine than transmission. I really underestimated how heavy the the cvt transmission was. I dont know why the SB says to pull the transmission.
I don't know either. Always pull engines for clutch jobs, rear main seals, or torque converter issues.
Are those harbor freight engine lift any good ? What do u guys use ?
excellent, it's so interesting how the different mfrs do trans fill procedures. I just did a '13 Mazda MX5 and I have the stuff to do a double CVT fluid change on my '13 Outback. I don't have a fancy scan tool but I do have a thermal laser, wish me luck! 🤪
You answered all of my questions. Thank you very much.
Have you ever thought about doing a video on disconnecting an Outback cell connection? I have a 2017 Outback and would love to know how to disconnect that always on cell phone data link. I hate thinking about Subaru knowing everywhere I go all the time. Awesome channel, great information! You provide such amazing information to Subaru owners.
I have to do the same exact job on my 2010 outback is there any way you can send me the links to all the parts I will need to buy for the job
Awesome video!!!! Love how detailed your videos are and you explain everything well
Thanks for posting! You explain the steps really well
Always learn something new from you . Thank you.
Great video! We have so many Subaru’s in the DC area. You would make a killing. Since you probably won’t move and I don’t blame you I should start a trucking company to deliver to you
Great video, as always!! I have just finished the replacement - the vehicle was without battery for almost a month, so ECM and so on have forgot everything I guess. The car started fine - for the 1st turn of the starter there was a snappning noise - but I believe the small gear of the starter, and the big gear on the converter had to find their place, afterward it was fine. One issue I found, the AT temp light is flashing after some seconds of the engine start - what should I do now? Shall I cycle through all gears so the converter starts to fill by CVT fluid?
What's the info on that seal driver and can it be used for other seals?
@MrSubaru1387 we replaced are torque converter on are 2010 subaru legacy it runs smoother on down shifts and does not stall anymore at harsh stops now we have a AT Oil Temp light flashing
You need to get the codes scanned. My have a valve body issue.
@@MrSubaru1387 we go into it there is no codes present does the transmission need relearning
@MrSubaru1387 Can you please Send the links for all the parts you used !
This guy knows his shit!
How much did this cost to be fixed? That's a lot of labor, engine removal, fluids, parts, etc... wow.
Thanks for another very informative video. Great work.
i got a Question for you. Where can I get the Trans Seal Driver Tool from?
I have been diagnosed by the dealer that my TR690 CVT Torque Convertor in my 2011 Outback 2.5i Premium is bad and while I have the Engine out for Head Gaskets, I plan on doing the Convertor but would like to get a Proper Tool for the Seal Install.
Considering the amount of work envolved in removal of the engine and replacment I'd like to Install the Seal Properlly the first time.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Need help mr subaru.
Have a 2011 outback automatic.
No codes nothing.
When im at a stop light and going to 1st gear it jerks and about to stall as if someone new driving a manual isnt riding the clutch properly.
When i put it in manual mode it dosent do it.
Subaru did a flush and fill with a relearn on TCM and still the same issue.
Im wondering if its the trans or torque converter. Help!
Does anything have to be reprogrammed or relearned when performing this job?
I have a 2011 subaru legacy that needs a torque converter replaced but I don't wanna pay an arm and a leg to get it done lol. You got any advice on what I could do. The car is in really good condition and the engine runs great. I would really hate to see the car go to waste.
whats the total cost to customer to have the torque converter replaced? does Subaru replace it on a recall or defective part??
I have a quick question maybe you could answer for me. I have a 2010 outback. When I try to accelerate I get like a stutter or hesitation until it finally catches. It started when I was driving home and then every light on the dash came on. I have a fixit code reader and it came up with P0700 and P2764 Torque Converter Control. I have been searching the internet for P0700 & P2764. I watched your video on CVT Valve Body Replacement: P0700 & P2764 but then I am worried that it is this problem. Does the CVT Torque Converter have the same code P0700 & P2764? Thank you
are any of the bearings in the front of the transmission replaceable with the torque converter out?
That tool you hammered that seal in with, is there a part number for that?
Sorry for the rant . After this repair how long can these rolling boats be expected to run before the next catastrophic failure ? Seriously . We need to know if we need to try to sell this thing while it’s running
Great learning experience for any application.
Is this usually the part that is the issue if you feel the “rumble strip” feeling in the shifting
Hi Mr. Subaru, I like so much thid video. I need the oil seal Installer for my TR690, do you know which page is selling it?
Have you MrSubaru1387 created a video on replacing a transmission on 2013 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Ltd, Automatic ? couple of transmission shops & dealership confirmed transmission needs to be replaced on my 147K mileage car. Everything runs great on the car, except whining noise starting at 30 mph & above. Dealership technician thinks there is some bearing gone bad inside, cant tell which one without tearing it apart. No error codes on computer during diagnostics. Any help direction is appreciated. Thanks.
How do you tell that the torque converter is properly locked in with all the splines. I put my torque converter in and it was in deep enough. Put the engine back in no problem. Start the car and it was lurching hard, running very rough and was making loud noise similar to belt slip but the belt look fine with no cracks. Took stuff apart to investigate without taking the engine back out then the car wouldn't start at all. When the torque converter is in all the way will it still spin easily? When we were putting the bolts in the torque converter we could spin the torque converter with our fingertips. Please help I'm at a loss.
What’s your thought on swapping the stock CVT torque converter with an aftermarket HTCVT for a WRX CVT? Tunes aside.
Also how long is the installation for this process?
My 2011 needs a new torque converter and the dealer says they are going to pull the transmission to get to it. I wonder if it would take less time to pull the engine as you show? Also, do you have any videos on changing out the door lock solenoids? All 4 of mine have been changed, some more than once and I am tired of paying the dealer to change them! I think I might be able to do it myself. Thanks for the great video!
How’re you liking that Icon ratchet? I’m happy to see another professional technician who’s not afraid to use Harbor Freight tools. 👍
So far, so good.
Hey Mr. Subaru, can you post the dimensions of that tool for setting the oil seal? Looks like something that would be easy to 3D print!
Hello, I have a question, what was the car doing before the repair😊
My 2011 Outback started stalling a couple days ago but only at the first couple full stops. It would not happen for the rest of the 150+ miles drive each time. Both times car was warm but trans prob wasnt yet. Bought the car from my parents at 125k miles and it always felt like it didn’t really enjoy the city stop and go very much. Felt a little bouncy or fighting itself from stopping at times. Figured maybe it was just the way the CVT was supposed to be. When i first got the car i brought in to dealership do a trans oil change but they advised against it. Now the Outback has 141k. Will a trans fluid change change much of the fluid that’s in the torque converter? Do you think a “simple” trans service could fix the issue? u mentioned in the TR690, faulty bushing bearing ports doesn’t allow the fluid to bleed and take off pressure from the clutch plate to disengage it from the “flywheel”. My local dealership is charging $825 for labor and $1050 for the torque converter and fluids. Do i have them just change the old fluid that might be sludging when cold? Or go and change out the torque converter? I found the torque converter around 550$ online and at another dealership. I posted on ur other videos b4 seeing this one. Also if Subaru does this job by removing the trans to replace the torque converter will they not have to replace much of the cvt fluid in the trans? And is that ok?
can I ask:,, you said the torque converter in this Subaru CVT 'needs to be spaced with the transmission bell housing, you gave the protrusion or otherwise none as "torque converter spacing" measurement but then also said it can just fairly be done with 'eyeballing' which sounds great ,but my question and issue becomes when the engine is placed with the -flextplate-/flywheel On lets say your alignment spacing is flat correct but during the engine aligning at the "fly to torque converter bolting moment" doesnt the torque converter move a bit outward with out you having any much possibility for adjusting it to spec again more forward because of the 'flywheel bolts' pulling nature?,and well doesn't that just get it out of its "portrution specification" abit? I'm doing a transmission change on a nissan but as well also has a CVT transmission ,when I space or" align" the torque converter it is correct at 16.2 mm' from its bell housing but once I place it aligned with the flexplate holes, I feel it gets pulled just away from its 16.2 mm aligning just naturally by the flex plate bolts and further more once I close the gap from the trans:to:engine housing I dont know or wouldnt even be able to confirm that torw protrusion specification is even where is specified to be at the end of this 'movement and fitment ' work,how could you be certain the torque converter is still in its specified position ? There are a lot of videos of muscle and project cars talking of the importance of usual automatic torque converter spacing but none on CVT torque converter spacing and its importances is it truely important like on muscle and project car automatics or is it just for those type ,nissan does give a spec and ive tried my best to keep everything aligned but I just dont feel it's come out correct and wouldnt want to start the car and ruin its converter or pump,thank you for your helpful videos I hope someone could throw out a comment on this issue✌🌊
What is the recommended torque for the screw/bolts that join the engine and transmission together?
Hi Mr. Subaru, I recently performed the torque converter and cvt valve body replacement after watching your videos. I thought everything went back together nicely, but now I have a pretty major CVT fluid leak. It's draining onto the front differential housing and dripping from there, so I thought at first it was a differential oil leak. Checked that, replaced diff oil, new crush washers on the bolts, torqued to spec. Differential is all good. I'm sure it's CVT fluid because the CVT fluid level was full after I replaced the torque converter and valve body and now it's two quarts low. It also smells like CVT fluid, which I now know the smell of quite well. Is it possible I didn't seat the torque converter fully? I replaced the lip seal and o-ring on the transmission driveshaft and thought everything went back together nicely. I've even driven the car a little since getting everything back together. So could the source of the leak possibly be that torque converter-drive shaft connection? I really don't want to have to take the engine back out to try to make sure torque converter is seated properly. And I really don't want to pay the Subaru mechanic to essentially repeat everything I just did to try to save some $$$.
I just reviewed the Technical Service Bulletin # 16-103-16R (revised 10/27/2021) for transmission fluid seepage. It calls for replacing the lip seal (806747030) you replaced in the video (although that was 806747020 so I guess they made a change there), and replacing gasket material (Three Bond 1215) PLUS removing the torque converter case cover and replacing an oil seal (31377AA550) and 2 o-rings (806916060) and gasket material (Three Bond 1215 again). You didn't do all this, so I didn't either. Could that be the source of a steady leak of CVT fluid? Could you possibly do a new video to cover this service bulletin that came out since you made the video?
Is the torque converter supposed to spin freely after properly install, cause on my 2011 legacy only spins about 90degree both directions, not sure if it supposed to be like that.
Thank you
Great video. Just had this done under warranty and it only took them a day. does that sound right?
Recently my Subaru when shutting down the car, I get a squealing noise and the engine shakes when off..Could this be the torque converter?? I believe that I also has a rear main seal dropping spots in the garage…Need your experience please!!
Can a bad torque converter cause vibrations when the car is not moving? I have this issue with my 2010 Legacy, the torque converter causes the engine to stall if I stop quickly, this has been going for some time now.
Now, the car vibrates when standing still and you feel a kick when you put the car into gear and the vibrations are getting worse.
This looks like an engine mounts problem, but the mounts are looking good, no leaks or tears, so is it possible that the torque converter is not balanced or something and this is causing the vibrations?
I know I have to replace the torque converter, I'm just hoping I don't have to replace teh mounts as well, these are quite expensive.
Takes me a good 7-8 tries lining up the torque converter always hardest part for me lol
This one made me want to pull my beard out! Haha
@@MrSubaru1387 oh no !!!!! we cant have that !!! hahahahaha
What does a service like this cost generally?
Hello, will this apply for a 2012 Tribeca? Thank you in advance.
Have you opened the pan? My crosstrek had a replaceable filter and my fluid was still clear. I probably shouldn’t have touched it, but I don’t many good decisions
Is it possible to drain and replace all of the transmission fluid? If so, why only replace the ~5 quarts?
Also, can the internal filter be accessed for replacement while the torque converter is out?
Very through job nicely done!
All in all what's the total cost for replacing this at a shop?
you use N m, which is quite international. cool!
Great job as always thanks.
Thank you. 👍🏻
дякую за відео лайк і підписка ))
Будь ласка. 👍🏻
You left shaft seal flush is any issue if I tapped it in a bit farther? Maybe 2-3 mm
How long should one of these transmissions last after valve body & torque converter replacement (my car is a 2011 Outback w/109,000 miles on it)? CVT fluid was changed at 62k miles. Do lots of dirt road driving (but I generally always drive at an easy pace in or off road).
Mine just stated giving me trouble
184000 miles 2010 Legacy 2.5i
Transmission shop is replacing TCC & valve body on my 2011 Outback (109k miles). Is the CVT relearn procedure something I should assume they did? Is there an alternative direct driving method for the CVT relearn if they say they can't do it? (They're closed for weekend & I broke down far far from home).
I will be asking them to put that on the invoice.
Hey, I have a 2016 FXT that needs the oil pump cover resealing or the TC oil seal/s replacing on the TR690 (common problem) Have you had the pleasure of doing one? I'm not sure whether to pull the motor or just the trans. (No Hoist/lift, will have to do it on floor) any opinion on this? Dealer oil is $800 AUD cough cough, and they only sell it in 20 ltr buckets... cheers
Nice job! Ya know I wonder if that p0741 code my wife's 03 outback threw a while back had anything to do with that o ring on the shaft? The torque converter tried to follow the old engine when I pulled it. Maybe it got a little damaged and fluid leaks past it causing the converter to act wonky? I shifts pretty smooth but its still acts sorta weird in lock up. And has a vibration at idle but that might be to do with aftermarket CVs up front.
When you do that final check of fluid, is it ok to have the transmission in park rather than neutral? Some automatic transmissions require neutral....
is this the same basic job for a 2015 with a 3.6?
I'm trying to install my torque converter and am starting to believe it's impossible. Any tips?
My tunnel noise on my 2011 tr690 (only 24k miles) is loud in park and neutral. When I put it in drive or reverse its not noticeable until I start moving pretty fast . Then noise changes into a higher pitch when I let off the gas . Oh, and no stalling when I stop. Could this still be torque converter ?
So this is not a warranty issue?
Hi I have a transmission problem after installing a new motor and i would like talk to you about it.. anyway I can contact you?
When you do the front wheel bearing are you gonna be using a hub buster?
Hey there Mr Suabru. What is your cost theres days for doing the torque converter and valve body on a 2011 Subaru? Also is it a must to do tye valve body with the TC?
They’re not connected as a repair unless both are failed.
@@MrSubaru1387 ok. To clarify. The TC is the first thing to replace. If the symptoms resolve you are good to go. If not, then you would do the valve body? As per the bulletin?
@@Cheech808 what’s the issue? Stalling?
@@MrSubaru1387 yes it will stall when I come to a hard stop.
@@Cheech808 I’ve never seen it be more than a failed TC or a dirty throttle body.
I have problem my engine stalls only when it’s cold outside you guys think is torque converter ? Throttle body clean no any problem with engine and also when it’s moving I feel the torque converter is locking up early solenoid was changed twice to make sure is not the solenoid issue
Excellent video.. thank you!
I have a 2006 subaru outback LLBean edition the 3.0 engine. My sport light will start flashing and my transmission with begin to shift hard. Any idea the cause
Gonna try this repair myself! How much CVT Fluid did you use?
it said 4 quarts i believe.
How many total hours did this job take to do?
Can a cvt transmission Tr690 from a 2012 legacy work on a 2011subaru outback
Nice clean efficient job.
Great video thank you! Have a question...could be this torque converter thing, maybe...When I drive at very low speed (XV with tr580 cvt) you can feel something happens with the engine, maybe throttle body...or maybe the transmition...never stalls...but it makes some jumpy small...hard to say...like if the engine stops for a fraction of a second and then keeps working normally...only when drive at 7-8% of throttle...Also happens something similar when going fast even with cruise control, for example after a hill when the engine dosent have to push anymore because the cruise speed is riched again...Something strange happens when engine trying to match again the wheels speed...thank you so much
think i got it...been measuring the solenoids and it looks like something is wrong, because i had only 2 solenoids with arround 13 ohms measurements in staid of 3...so maybe i have a bad lockup solenoid..the thing is...the colours in the cables is kind of confusing for me...cant find the white cable...there is some pink, yellow,grey...not sure...so i would like to know what is the position of this solenoid cable in the PLUG, so i can confirm that thats the one is bad and i try to replace it (cant buy a complete valvebody).
beside this, i want to ask you what was the symptom for this job? before the $ligth on the dashboard.
thank you so much.
How many quarts of CVTF-II total is needed when the torque converter is replaced? I saw you were able to get about 1 full quart into the torque converter prior to engine mount. Then is it 5 1/2 on top of that 1, so 6 1/2 total? I've added about half a quart to my torque converter replacement and have now gone back to dealer 2 twice to purchase more fluid with a total of 7 quarts added and it is still not quite to side plug and draining yet. I'll be making another trip to the dealer for an 8th quart and hopefully it will only needs about half.
I believe Subaru recommends having 12qts on hand for the job. Believe that's what they sent me with the TC and I had 4qts left over.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks! Also, your engine removal plus this CVT swap was a life saver. I had the Subaru repair manual but this is really what helped.
Does the 2011 legacy have the same nut/bolt mount on the sides?
while doing the test drive engine oil temp gauge on the left most corner just went to the maximum. Not sure what was that ?
Its a "MPG Gauge" so basically a reverse throttle position gauge. Nothing to do with oil temp or anything like that. Always moves around as you drive
@@ambushell5778 oops. my bad..
Yes you are right. I could not see clearly that dial. On my 2013 Sub Legacy, i have Oil temp gauge in the exact spot & the "MPG" gage is a digital one where it keeps on moving (-ve +ve ) while driving.
Thank you for correcting me.
Just did my 2014 forrester it was a hassle installing it wiggle wiggle wiggle. Shimmy shimmy shimmy. Trying to line up the flat cuts on the part of the TC that goes inside the trans and the trans fluid pump gear ring that rides on those cuts didnt help me at all 😂. Climb in the engine bay if the motor is out and sit your butt on the ground to get er done without blowing out yer back.
How loud do you like the front wheel bearings to be before swapping 'em out? I just did my rears (right was going at only 37K, but stealership claimed both were "bad" and charged me $150 for that opinion) and things quieted down nicely. But, like you, now I hear the fronts a bit.
FYI, I went with Moogs instead of the Timkens, but defer to your expert suggestion.
I change them as soon as they get noisy. Unfortunately the owner had the money for one repair, figured the transmission was more important. The bearing was still tight and without play.
Is this the way to fix the 2010 outback 2.5 stalling at a sudden stop? Mine is at 129k.
Yes. If it's the converter. To test, pop it in neutral before a hard stop. If it stalls in drive, but not in neutral, it's the converter clutch.
@@MrSubaru1387 Does it worth the fix or it'll soon need a new body valve... wish they recall the trans...
It's worth the fix if you plan to keep the vehicle. It's a safety concern to leave it and continue to sporadically stall the car.
Not looking forward to doing this job soon. 2012 with the tr690 is stalling. SoA won't help out because its over 10 years old, but has 95k miles on it 🤬. I also recently had to replace my clutch release bearing on a 2017 Forester, as these Subaru engineers used a damn plastic race on the bearing, which melts and causes the clutch to stop depressing. SMH, Subaru is gonna lose a customer here soon.
Thank you for the walkthrough MrSubaru!!
Just wondering if you would benefit from doing a relearn, I would think with the new torque converter and fresh fluid the valve body might need to relearn or am I crazy? Just asking I know its not in the TSB .
No. Not needed unless you replace the valve body.
very educative.thank you. regards.
Any tips to get the tc back on?
What spray cleaner are you using to clean up?
Brake clean