If you go for a creality, use a 24v system you can cut out the conversions (inverter, power supply) and connect directly to a fuse block. Also, a bl touch w the bed perfectly trammed, and using gluestick and a glass plate, with PLA you can turn off the bed heater.
Interesting idea. You're saying to bypass the power block and power the electronics directly? I think that'll work with most electronics, provided you crack them open. But I don't know how the Jackery will jive with that.
For me it's a question of capacity. The bigger the better, that's pretty much it. But I don't have much experience with other ones so maybe there's other things I'm not considering.
@@3dpprofessor Capacity is definitely a good priority, but I'm really looking at the ecoflow delta 3. The new charge speed abilities make it possible to out charge a lot of consumption or top up quickly on the go. Also if I can swing for the backup battery later it will have plenty of juice.
Seriously, I’m doing this test by daily basis. Live off grid. The X1c is =ok=, the p1s is actually I little bit better. The A1-mini is the best performer in terms of consumption. Still, it depends a LOT of what material you’re printing. PLA, is cheap (consumption wise). but if you’re to print functional parts (ABS/ASA/PA/PC), that would most likely happen after the apocalypse, you’re power consumption will more than double. The heat bed is the biggest consumer, hence the good results with the qidi having much smaller bed.And if you have a heater chamber…. Yeah… that battery won’t last for more than 5 hours. I printed a 9h PA-GF on the plus4, took 6kwh from the battery… 🙈
I ran some similar experiments to see how much power my printers use with my jackery 1000. Similar setup, charge to 100% and run a print with it. I chose the classic 3D benchy with standard settings (not the high speed "benchy in x minutes") for a realistic test. Record the percentage remaining at the end of the print. On my A1 Mini and X1 Carbon, the power usage was nearly identical. After the printing completed I recorded the % remaining on the battery. Both prints took about an hour to complete, and the results were interesting. The A1 Mini had 91% power remaining, the X1C had 90% remaining. Other factors to consider: Is the printer enclosed or not? Escaping heat can use more power. Turn off the heated bed and use glue instead? (at least for PLA) Less heating, less power used. For other printers, bypass the AC inverter and run the machine directly off DC? What role does ambient temperature/humidity play in power consumption? Less cooling from the hotend? My thought is it's blowing excess heat off the bed. This is a very interesting concept! I've been following your updates on discord and have been intrigued by battery powered printers! So much testing to be done! Gonna run my ender 3 with and without the heated bed next!
I find this idea interesting. One thought in your more testing, environment temperature is going to change how much power is used. I am looking forward to a follow-up video.
The material is always defined in the slicer, which ajust the temperature, extrusion rate and so. It's not very surprising that you can print without telling the printer what's loaded.
I don't think that you'll be doing much 3d printing in a doomsday scenario. They just don't provide shelter, warmth or help with gathering food and water. However, for portability, I would look at the Positron. I mean, it fits in a filiment box.
@@777Thibs I don't know about that. Clips, adaptors, utensils, and a whole host of "wish I had"s. There's a reason they're experimenting with 3d printing on the ISS.
All of BambuLab's 3D printers are the most reliable and resilient 3D printers I've ever owned. I've never had a 3D printer I could literally take literally rip parts out of and replace them while the printer is paused, and then fire it up and have the print complete successfully. I've never had printers stop mid-print because the filament got knotted. That's amazing. You're gonna have a great time.
What about to add mobile phone with hotspot? Maybe even without mobile services it could create sufficient network for sending files to the printer, so you don’t need to deal with copy data throught usb drive/SD card. With enabled mobile data you could even enjoy cloud services and watch print remotely. It should work at least for bambu. As well old wifi rounter should work too, for using LAN only mode. Power consumption for both devices will be unsignificant.
Interesting idea. I've used a cell phone hot spot before, but never to communicate across like a network. But I suppose it must work that way. Gonna have to test that out.
Great vid and pretty interesting - very surprised Bamboo labs had an opening like that on the bottom Always thought 'Qidi' was pronounced "Chee-Dee" (instead of 'Cutie')
I have a panda touch and it's a great solution... if you have wifi. It doesn't connect to your printer directly, despite using a USB port on the printer for power.
@@3dpprofessor You can run a Mk3 with Klipper and Input Shaping. All you need is a RaspberryPi. The frame of the Mk3 is more than rigid enough to run the printer at the same speed as a Mk4.
@@3dpprofessor I don't have a Mk3 but I have seen someone running their Mk3 with Klipper. And yes it's still the same hardware only the heavy lifting is done by the Rasbperry Pi. And by the way. On the Flash Forge Adventurer M5 Pro runs a modified version of Klipper. It is also not closed source. Flash Forge published the source code 9 months ago.
Welp, that's all the bloviating I can take out of you. Time to unsubscribe. Best luck with the channel - even though we both know it's more of a outlet to listen to yourself talk. Enjoy.
Did you notice the haircut? www.3dpprofessor.com/2024/10/12/best-survival-3d-printer/
the concept of using a 3d printer on a solar battery just absolutely delights me!
If you go for a creality, use a 24v system you can cut out the conversions (inverter, power supply) and connect directly to a fuse block. Also, a bl touch w the bed perfectly trammed, and using gluestick and a glass plate, with PLA you can turn off the bed heater.
Interesting idea. You're saying to bypass the power block and power the electronics directly? I think that'll work with most electronics, provided you crack them open. But I don't know how the Jackery will jive with that.
@@3dpprofessor I was thinking maybe a small 24v LiPo4 battery and a fuseblock and small charge controller in a cheap plastic toolbox. 🤔
My A1 Mini is plugged into my Anker 4kWh battery. Works fine and runs for an amazing amount of time.
I have literally been looking at this from the reverse angle. Which battery pack will be best at powering my 3d printer!
For me it's a question of capacity. The bigger the better, that's pretty much it. But I don't have much experience with other ones so maybe there's other things I'm not considering.
@@3dpprofessor Capacity is definitely a good priority, but I'm really looking at the ecoflow delta 3. The new charge speed abilities make it possible to out charge a lot of consumption or top up quickly on the go. Also if I can swing for the backup battery later it will have plenty of juice.
Seriously, I’m doing this test by daily basis. Live off grid. The X1c is =ok=, the p1s is actually I little bit better. The A1-mini is the best performer in terms of consumption. Still, it depends a LOT of what material you’re printing. PLA, is cheap (consumption wise). but if you’re to print functional parts (ABS/ASA/PA/PC), that would most likely happen after the apocalypse, you’re power consumption will more than double. The heat bed is the biggest consumer, hence the good results with the qidi having much smaller bed.And if you have a heater chamber…. Yeah… that battery won’t last for more than 5 hours. I printed a 9h PA-GF on the plus4, took 6kwh from the battery… 🙈
I ran some similar experiments to see how much power my printers use with my jackery 1000. Similar setup, charge to 100% and run a print with it. I chose the classic 3D benchy with standard settings (not the high speed "benchy in x minutes") for a realistic test. Record the percentage remaining at the end of the print. On my A1 Mini and X1 Carbon, the power usage was nearly identical.
After the printing completed I recorded the % remaining on the battery. Both prints took about an hour to complete, and the results were interesting. The A1 Mini had 91% power remaining, the X1C had 90% remaining.
Other factors to consider:
Is the printer enclosed or not? Escaping heat can use more power.
Turn off the heated bed and use glue instead? (at least for PLA) Less heating, less power used.
For other printers, bypass the AC inverter and run the machine directly off DC?
What role does ambient temperature/humidity play in power consumption?
Less cooling from the hotend? My thought is it's blowing excess heat off the bed.
This is a very interesting concept! I've been following your updates on discord and have been intrigued by battery powered printers! So much testing to be done! Gonna run my ender 3 with and without the heated bed next!
I find this idea interesting.
One thought in your more testing, environment temperature is going to change how much power is used.
I am looking forward to a follow-up video.
Isn't internet connection required to design - slice anything for Bambu machines?
Nope. It's a stand alone app that runs just fine off the network.
The material is always defined in the slicer, which ajust the temperature, extrusion rate and so. It's not very surprising that you can print without telling the printer what's loaded.
I don't think that you'll be doing much 3d printing in a doomsday scenario. They just don't provide shelter, warmth or help with gathering food and water. However, for portability, I would look at the Positron. I mean, it fits in a filiment box.
@@777Thibs I don't know about that. Clips, adaptors, utensils, and a whole host of "wish I had"s. There's a reason they're experimenting with 3d printing on the ISS.
@20:00 you could set your phone or laptop into hotspot mode - no need to add a separate wifi gateway
I never thought about that, but it must be working like a wifi router. Il have to try it out.
I’m planning on getting a p1s S as my first 3d printer
@@peersupportcounselor1904 you won't be sad.
All of BambuLab's 3D printers are the most reliable and resilient 3D printers I've ever owned. I've never had a 3D printer I could literally take literally rip parts out of and replace them while the printer is paused, and then fire it up and have the print complete successfully. I've never had printers stop mid-print because the filament got knotted. That's amazing. You're gonna have a great time.
@@3dpprofessor thank you for reinforcing my choice
What about to add mobile phone with hotspot? Maybe even without mobile services it could create sufficient network for sending files to the printer, so you don’t need to deal with copy data throught usb drive/SD card. With enabled mobile data you could even enjoy cloud services and watch print remotely. It should work at least for bambu. As well old wifi rounter should work too, for using LAN only mode. Power consumption for both devices will be unsignificant.
Interesting idea. I've used a cell phone hot spot before, but never to communicate across like a network. But I suppose it must work that way. Gonna have to test that out.
LOL! I've been thinking about this, but not so much the power consumption. I can deal with that.
@@guruthossindarin3563 so what's your plan when the battery runs out?
at 16:16 it was 3h41m hours for bambu x1c
Great vid and pretty interesting - very surprised Bamboo labs had an opening like that on the bottom
Always thought 'Qidi' was pronounced "Chee-Dee" (instead of 'Cutie')
It probably is pronounced "Chee-Dee". But I think "Cu Die" is a cuter way to pronounce it.
Interesting
Adding a Panda Touch, for $60, to the P1S could solve a lot of your problems.
@@anthonylong5870
Uh... Hate it break it to you but you're wrong bud. What firmware is your printer and panda touch?
I have a panda touch and it's a great solution... if you have wifi. It doesn't connect to your printer directly, despite using a USB port on the printer for power.
I wonder how a prusa would have done
I suspced an Mk3 would have been similar to the Ender 3. But the Mk4 with input shaping and increased acceleration might have a chance.
@@3dpprofessor You can run a Mk3 with Klipper and Input Shaping. All you need is a RaspberryPi. The frame of the Mk3 is more than rigid enough to run the printer at the same speed as a Mk4.
@@andreas.grundler at that point is it still an MK3? Have you done this to yours?
@@3dpprofessor I don't have a Mk3 but I have seen someone running their Mk3 with Klipper. And yes it's still the same hardware only the heavy lifting is done by the Rasbperry Pi.
And by the way. On the Flash Forge Adventurer M5 Pro runs a modified version of Klipper. It is also not closed source. Flash Forge published the source code 9 months ago.
This test would be more accurate with a kilowatt hour meter in a room with constant temperature and humidity. This test has far too many variables.
Welp, that's all the bloviating I can take out of you. Time to unsubscribe. Best luck with the channel - even though we both know it's more of a outlet to listen to yourself talk. Enjoy.
Have I gotten worse lately, or are you new?
First Kia is not a American car. So no bueno there. If you use a hourse ans carrage I understand. ROFLOL.
You follow up a complaint about my Korean car not being American enough with Spanish? Okay.