I'm missing your cute outro's from your prior videos. Nothing better than riding a wheelie on a dirt bike while holding a chainsaw. You are truly gifted in your craft my friend.
One additional disadvantage of the style of hose clamp used in the video is the small amount of metal, which can rust away and break. On boats, the best practice is to use double clamps (high quality stainless) and the type with the teeth not punched through. Thanks for sharing. I always learn something new from you. Cheers.
When I was just starting out I sharpened both sides, but now I don't for the exact reason you said. I end up fussing too much with the tungsten to get it to slide in and out easily. Now I just add a small chamfer to one side just to make it slightly easier to slide in.
For small hoses I like the fuel injection style hose clamps. Screw type but with 360 pressure squeeze like the constant squeeze ones. They have them at Oreilly so they are readily available.
Man it's nice to hear you talking very informative and yes I was told to sharpen my tungsten at both ends when I first started and I quit doing it just for the reason you said. Really enjoy your videos
Constant Tension Clamp. Good answer. Plus the metal/ aluminium pipe expands and contracts. The constant tension clamp will move and compensate for this.
I do more stainless than I do aluminum, and typically when I dip in ss, the tungsten has no issue being flipped because it's generally just a little bit on the very tip. But when I dip on aluminum its pretty much always bigger and won't go in to use the other end like you showed.
Another problem with sharpening both sides of the tungsten: if you use multiple types of tungsten, the paint strip is gone so you don't know which type it is!
Always been a fan of your vids and watching you work in silence. Appreciate the new direction with comments enabled and some commentary! I'm just a home gamer with a 'nasty 200 DX and I don't get enough practice but I'm curious if you would outline some pulser parameters for aluminium projects both thick and thin within that machines 200 amp rating, and tungsten flavours and diameters. Cheers!
I like how you explained it seriously to the guy who asked someone on RUclips how to divide by two on a calculator 👍 Also, i agree on the 1 vs 2 points question. I sharpened two points on all my tungstens when i started out to try to save time. But in reality you just shift where you're wasting your time because you have to fiddle with the torch and grind tungstens with the collet still on and soforth...
Big problem with grinding both side of tungsten is if you goober up both sides. Now your collet is stuck on the torch and sometimes if you use a gas lens you can’t get that off either and now you’re trapped 😅
been TIG welding for 25 years, and I generally do grind tungsten at both ends, and if the diameter doesn't get bigger, I turn it around and use the other tip...if not, I grab another tungsten, and add it to the sharpening pile. I don't ever force it through the collet. I usually take a 10 pack, and turn it into 20x 3.5" sticks ground on both ends. 40 tips! admittedly, that is a bit wasteful because they are useless when they are 1" or less, but they last me a long time, so it's worth it to save time if you are getting paid well!
The other thing you've done by shoving that AL coated tungsten into the collet is get a bunch of contamination up in the works... That shit erodes off and ends up in the weld. I used to sharpen both ends a long time ago, but that was only for a quick change on a tungsten that was worn. If it touches anything, you take it out and remove the entire contaminated area.
Aaron, one of the most difficult parts I have is when I do dip the tungsten and I remove and grind it, I can never get a nice weld after the fact. Something about the impurities or something just keeps coming back up in the puddle. How do you recover from dipping the tungsten in the puddle? Thanks!!
@klac1024 If you can, please email me through the website and show me exactly what you are trying to weld. That would make a good video topic. Thanks, Aaron@6061
Good video, more like these would be good. I went to reply to you about the Vernier having the fractions but I couldn't see your reply to my comment after the preview that popped up. I've checked mine, it doesn't have fractions. I don't know if it's just not as expensive as yours or it's because almost nobody uses imperial measurements here in the UK. We use metric for just about everything except our road speed and road distances, I'm sure there is more but I can't think of it off the top of my head.
These calipers are "el cheapos". I never use the fraction feature, I don't see a use for it. I accidentally bumped the button in the video you are referring to.
@@6061 I saw in the comment preview that you accidentally bumped it I just couldn't find your reply when I looked earlier. I didn't know they were cheap ones. It must just be that my German also cheapish ones aren't marketed at the USA or the other 2 countries who still use the imperial system. I do find it frustrating to watch some American channels when they talk in fractions then go on about freedom units and not understanding metric. I know you are still using imperial measurements but you obviously see using decimal places is easier than fractions. I was born in the year the UK switched to metric so growing up I was taught both as the country took a while to wean the older folk off imperial our rulers/tape measures still have both on over 50 years later, I'm not sure if mainland Europe is the same with their tools
I thought I was SO clever when I had the bright idea of sharpening both sides of the tungsten. Had a nice pack of new electrodes all pointed on both ends, dipped my tip. tried to turn it around and couldn't get past the collet, so I took the handle off, put the tungsten in from the back, and then dipped my tip again. Now I have to take the whole torch apart to replace the tungsten because I trapped the collet between two blobs. Sure. I could take the electrode with collet still on it to the grinder and free it up, but I left it in my toolbox as a reminder that I'm not always as smart as I think I am.
The other problem with sharpening both ends of the tungsten is that the color marking gets removed. If it is like my shop, I have three different flavors of tungsten. How would I be able to tell the difference if they get mixed up?
@@6061 I weld on multiple types of metals with both AC and DC. My two principal electrodes are E3 and Thoriated. I use Ceriated in a very small diameter on very thin materials. At least for me, the E3 seems to work better with AC and the Thoriated seems to work better on DC. My standard practice is to have only one type of filler rod and electrode out at a time. Stubs go into scrap containers and are not reused. I very much enjoy your videos and have learned a lot from them. I especially like watching the fabrication videos as you go from blanks to finished product.
@@6061 The Thoriated electrodes are from Weldcote metals and Welding City. The Weldcote ones, I purchased from my local welding supply store. The Welding City ones are purchased online. The E3 are Best Welds and they are purchased from my local welding supply store. In both types I am using 1/16", 3/32" and 1/8" as needed for the amperage. The Ceriated are .040". As far as the difference, it is more qualitative than anything else. On DC the Thoriated seem to have a more defined arc and last longer before needing resharpening. It is the same on AC that the E3 show a better-defined arc and last longer before needing to be resharpened than the Thoriated. I also weld magnesium on AC using the E3. On DC, I am welding carbon steel, stainless steel, copper and titanium. I also do DC tig for brazing. hth
1000% agree don’t sharpen both ends of tungsten, makes no sense to do that bc like you said if one end is contaminated you can’t get it in the collet so the sharpe end is basically useless..
Another downside to sharpening both sides is that you cannot distinguish what color tungsten it is. That’s if u hav multiple different types in your shop obviously
Развлечения
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TIG Button: www.6061.com/tigbutton.htm
I love the type of video. Honestly, it reminds me that I'm not an idiot. Thanks bro.
Sounds like a lot of people in the witness protection program are interested in welding.
You don't talk that way? Everyone in the neighbourhood we just moved into talks like that.
I'm missing your cute outro's from your prior videos. Nothing better than riding a wheelie on a dirt bike while holding a chainsaw. You are truly gifted in your craft my friend.
One additional disadvantage of the style of hose clamp used in the video is the small amount of metal, which can rust away and break. On boats, the best practice is to use double clamps (high quality stainless) and the type with the teeth not punched through. Thanks for sharing. I always learn something new from you. Cheers.
When I was just starting out I sharpened both sides, but now I don't for the exact reason you said. I end up fussing too much with the tungsten to get it to slide in and out easily. Now I just add a small chamfer to one side just to make it slightly easier to slide in.
Keep the Q&A videos coming, great stuff.
Do more of these👍 these types of video are the best
I think it’s safe to say we like any video you put out. Thank you again!
I enjoy all of your content.
Definitely like the format of this video. Cool to hear the in depth explanation of things like this, I really enjoyed that. Cheers man
For small hoses I like the fuel injection style hose clamps. Screw type but with 360 pressure squeeze like the constant squeeze ones. They have them at Oreilly so they are readily available.
Man I love your content and fab skills! Be sweet for a weekly Q&A session
Man it's nice to hear you talking very informative and yes I was told to sharpen my tungsten at both ends when I first started and I quit doing it just for the reason you said. Really enjoy your videos
Constant Tension Clamp. Good answer.
Plus the metal/ aluminium pipe expands and contracts. The constant tension clamp will move and compensate for this.
Love this style of content and the original style too.
I like it man! As a career mechanic and a recreational welder, it's always nice to get quality information from intelligent people on the topic!
Love the videos with your narrative. Keep them coming mate!
Keep it coming bro!
Thanks so much, you're experience and expertise is truly priceless and so exceptionally beneficial.
This is the first time I've heard you speak....
It's nice to hear you speak every once in awhile 👍
I really enjoy all videos about aluminum welding. I learn so much. Best regards
Great stuff, Aaron, thank you!
All your content is appreciated
Awesome video. Very helpful.. keep em coming..
I do more stainless than I do aluminum, and typically when I dip in ss, the tungsten has no issue being flipped because it's generally just a little bit on the very tip. But when I dip on aluminum its pretty much always bigger and won't go in to use the other end like you showed.
I could watch this for much longer. Excellent format. Do more please.
Sounds like your helmet is off even....
I highly recommend the TIG button. Saves lots of time on freehand, weird positions, tubing, etc.
I like both types of vids. But, I like to learn and the talking is very helpful to me.
Another problem with sharpening both sides of the tungsten: if you use multiple types of tungsten, the paint strip is gone so you don't know which type it is!
Always been a fan of your vids and watching you work in silence. Appreciate the new direction with comments enabled and some commentary! I'm just a home gamer with a 'nasty 200 DX and I don't get enough practice but I'm curious if you would outline some pulser parameters for aluminium projects both thick and thin within that machines 200 amp rating, and tungsten flavours and diameters. Cheers!
Hi,
All that stuff is explained in detail on the website.
Thanks,
Aaron
👍 always appreciate insightful comments…u da man, to ask!
I like how you explained it seriously to the guy who asked someone on RUclips how to divide by two on a calculator 👍
Also, i agree on the 1 vs 2 points question. I sharpened two points on all my tungstens when i started out to try to save time. But in reality you just shift where you're wasting your time because you have to fiddle with the torch and grind tungstens with the collet still on and soforth...
Big problem with grinding both side of tungsten is if you goober up both sides. Now your collet is stuck on the torch and sometimes if you use a gas lens you can’t get that off either and now you’re trapped 😅
Great style and insight.
Great video, nice change of pace.
Love these videos!
Really like these types of videos 🤙🏻
I really like these kind of videos.
I love these kinds of videos.
Love your stuff man! Anything!
Enjoy your work thanks
Another fantastic video and some great advice big thanks 👍👍
Heaps of information in this video, cool for me coming from only ever seen non verbal videos 😂👍
Thanks for the video's helps me understand the thing's that I'm doing wrong.
Great video, like this style content.
Brilliant video. ✌️
I like this style video. Actually, I like all of your videos.
I weld mostly thin wall 4130 with a 1/16" electrode. Yours look huge to me. :-)
been TIG welding for 25 years, and I generally do grind tungsten at both ends, and if the diameter doesn't get bigger, I turn it around and use the other tip...if not, I grab another tungsten, and add it to the sharpening pile. I don't ever force it through the collet. I usually take a 10 pack, and turn it into 20x 3.5" sticks ground on both ends. 40 tips! admittedly, that is a bit wasteful because they are useless when they are 1" or less, but they last me a long time, so it's worth it to save time if you are getting paid well!
Thanks mate, enjoyed the video
Yeah, I liked that type of video, thanks
Do you have a video about the enclosure you made for your milling machine? I would like to make something similar for mine to stay cleaner.
@KerseyKyle
I do now, thank you for the question:
ruclips.net/video/ONTDNwafeks/видео.htmlsi=P81xTQJUpAjtRZ74
I like this type of video!
Awesome content, thank you very much👍
The other thing you've done by shoving that AL coated tungsten into the collet is get a bunch of contamination up in the works... That shit erodes off and ends up in the weld. I used to sharpen both ends a long time ago, but that was only for a quick change on a tungsten that was worn. If it touches anything, you take it out and remove the entire contaminated area.
Yeah, more videos like this👍
Aaron, one of the most difficult parts I have is when I do dip the tungsten and I remove and grind it, I can never get a nice weld after the fact. Something about the impurities or something just keeps coming back up in the puddle.
How do you recover from dipping the tungsten in the puddle? Thanks!!
Awesome work! Where are you at in the US now?
What type of tungsten is best if you have to slightly bend it to get into awkward areas in tight spaces? Thanks
@klac1024
If you can, please email me through the website and show me exactly what you are trying to weld. That would make a good video topic.
Thanks,
Aaron@6061
Id stay away from dorman constant tension hose clamps, ive had horrible luck w many sizes of dorman, just throwin that out there.
Thanks bro nice work 😊
It matters
Good video, more like these would be good. I went to reply to you about the Vernier having the fractions but I couldn't see your reply to my comment after the preview that popped up. I've checked mine, it doesn't have fractions. I don't know if it's just not as expensive as yours or it's because almost nobody uses imperial measurements here in the UK. We use metric for just about everything except our road speed and road distances, I'm sure there is more but I can't think of it off the top of my head.
These calipers are "el cheapos". I never use the fraction feature, I don't see a use for it. I accidentally bumped the button in the video you are referring to.
@@6061 I saw in the comment preview that you accidentally bumped it I just couldn't find your reply when I looked earlier. I didn't know they were cheap ones. It must just be that my German also cheapish ones aren't marketed at the USA or the other 2 countries who still use the imperial system. I do find it frustrating to watch some American channels when they talk in fractions then go on about freedom units and not understanding metric. I know you are still using imperial measurements but you obviously see using decimal places is easier than fractions. I was born in the year the UK switched to metric so growing up I was taught both as the country took a while to wean the older folk off imperial our rulers/tape measures still have both on over 50 years later, I'm not sure if mainland Europe is the same with their tools
I 100% wish we ALL grew up being taught the "base 10" measurement system for everything, and the U.S. fraction system never existed. It's stupid.
all good
I thought I was SO clever when I had the bright idea of sharpening both sides of the tungsten. Had a nice pack of new electrodes all pointed on both ends, dipped my tip. tried to turn it around and couldn't get past the collet, so I took the handle off, put the tungsten in from the back, and then dipped my tip again. Now I have to take the whole torch apart to replace the tungsten because I trapped the collet between two blobs. Sure. I could take the electrode with collet still on it to the grinder and free it up, but I left it in my toolbox as a reminder that I'm not always as smart as I think I am.
Have you had a tig button malfunction or wear out? Thanks
Just the part that attaches to the torch handle, and it was my own fault (physical abuse). It's only $30 to get a replacement.
love the content, sometimes it is just use you logic
The other problem with sharpening both ends of the tungsten is that the color marking gets removed. If it is like my shop, I have three different flavors of tungsten. How would I be able to tell the difference if they get mixed up?
@paulkurilecz4209
Out of curiosity, why do you use 3 different types?
@@6061 I weld on multiple types of metals with both AC and DC. My two principal electrodes are E3 and Thoriated. I use Ceriated in a very small diameter on very thin materials. At least for me, the E3 seems to work better with AC and the Thoriated seems to work better on DC. My standard practice is to have only one type of filler rod and electrode out at a time. Stubs go into scrap containers and are not reused. I very much enjoy your videos and have learned a lot from them. I especially like watching the fabrication videos as you go from blanks to finished product.
What brand of E3?
And specifically, what do you find better about the thoriated on DC?
Thanks for your response
@@6061 The Thoriated electrodes are from Weldcote metals and Welding City. The Weldcote ones, I purchased from my local welding supply store. The Welding City ones are purchased online. The E3 are Best Welds and they are purchased from my local welding supply store. In both types I am using 1/16", 3/32" and 1/8" as needed for the amperage. The Ceriated are .040". As far as the difference, it is more qualitative than anything else. On DC the Thoriated seem to have a more defined arc and last longer before needing resharpening. It is the same on AC that the E3 show a better-defined arc and last longer before needing to be resharpened than the Thoriated. I also weld magnesium on AC using the E3. On DC, I am welding carbon steel, stainless steel, copper and titanium. I also do DC tig for brazing. hth
Yeah, grinding both sides is nasty work when you end up with a q-tip after dipping.
👍
1000% agree don’t sharpen both ends of tungsten, makes no sense to do that bc like you said if one end is contaminated you can’t get it in the collet so the sharpe end is basically useless..
Also if you're a mixed materials welder and have multiple kinds of tungsten and sharpen both ends you lose your paint mark to indicate what it is.
I just put them in 2 different places in my kit. Just like sometimes they fade off
Or just use the same type for everything. There are certain tungsten types that work great for aluminum, steel, stainless, titanium....
Dork it HAHA ... love it.
If your hose gets soft when things get hot...... they have pills for that. as well as clamps if you prefer.
10 / 10
Another downside to sharpening both sides is that you cannot distinguish what color tungsten it is. That’s if u hav multiple different types in your shop obviously
Now all you need is the "Face Reveal" then you too, can be a "Real You Tuber" 🤣
OMG! cant believe you purposely dunkt your tungston.... all in the name of science ;-)
So weird hearing you speak.