This is amazing. With your "10 secrets to better hand planing," and your "Hand Plane Basics - How to read the Shaving," I was able to square a board in record time. Also, I happened to see another woodworker's video, a veteran, who went through your program. He said he'll never change how he sharpens blades again. Thank you for what you are doing. 👍👍
Rob, when I started watching your channel almost 2 years ago I thought I knew how to plane wood. I was wrong. Watching you plane wood, listening to the sounds your planes make, and learning from your instruction has taught me more about planing than I thought I would ever know. I’m starting to get to be a decent planer, even. I can’t thank you enough for that. (Unless it’s by buying more good tools from you!) This is a great, condensed lesson. Keep them coming!
Being a busy cabinet shop, it's hard for me to stop work work, to break out my planes and use them, and have some fun. But once I'm finished with the job, I will have some fun and build something with my hand tools. Always great to watch Rob use his plane.
Rob, watching you work with planes takes me back to when I was a child watching 'pappy'(my grandfather) working in his shop making furniture. The sound of the plane cutting through the wood takes me back to where I can almost smell the mixture of the wood, glue and the finishes. Thanks for the journey and tips. Unfortunately I didn't 'inherit' his skills or learn them.
There is nothing more beautiful and relaxing then in a shop using hand tools. Great stress reliever especially with a demanding work life. I'm a retired Engineer. Believe me...I know. Start now. It's fun and you can do it. The joy is in the journey. You have easy access to people like Rob. Take advantage of it while you can!
Never to late to start - learning is very satisfying (and sometimes frustrating - like everything in life that is worth pursuing!) And if you really want to have a great week learning - take one of Rob's courses, in person (when that becomes available). I'm guessing you'll find it one of the best times you've ever spent (like I did...)
I like it when I think I’ve done a good job planing a piece of wood, then hold it almost flat to my eye and can see a reflection with colors and shapes, almost like a mirror in the surface of the wood that only I know about.
Great morning from ROCKPORT Tx. I Followed your instructions on the TREND &SHAPTON system . My go to is a STANLEY # 5 with factory iron. We have Sapele,Alder,Soft Maple & Red Oak at our local lumber yard. With your instructions I can get .002 or better on all of these and Poplar its .001. The money I spent on other systems before I bought yours I could have a second or third set. Thanks again. BenJammin
It matters not how many times I watch those shavings, they are magic. Even on harder woods the fine shavings are so soft. I can understand how a student would want to plan and feel all the fine soft wood. O and the smell each wood gives. Yet another master class!
A superb practical lesson on how to plan and square a piece of wood and also a demonstration of how to set a blade on a hand plane. Thanks for the lesson.
I find not much is as satisfying as a full width, full length plane shaving with a newly sharpened blade. And not much is a frustrating as trying to coax out a few more passes when you're already past when you should have resharpened the blade. Thanks for the tips and another fine video!
Not that my opinion means much but this is the best instruction I have watched on using a hand plane and how to read the shavings to tune your work for a perfect, no-sanding required, finish. Thank you Rob for sharing your expertise.
When a shaving comes straight up out of the plane and has no voids in it at all, you know you have the cap iron set properly. If you can go against grain runout and still have the same, you know you *really* have it set right.
Again this is why you are the Professor. Thanks Rob for all the time and effort you put into these videos. Hey boiled peanuts, hope you are doing well Col. Shealy.
Love it. A lot of info here. Not only what is said, but what he does without saying. I listen AND watch and learn something. And thanks for keeping it simple Rob. Good one.
Just finished my practice for today after watching this. What a difference. I've got my nicest shavings ever. Next on the list is the Shapton 16000 glass stone and more practice!
Rob, I never skip any of your lessons. I have a question that is off subject but I value your opinions. In almost every project I see, wood is put through a planner. Is that a ‘must have’ tool for my ‘starting out’ shop? I will not be making furniture or high quality items. Mostly craft items using wood I’ve found for a rustic look. Thank you! Louis.
I've been waiting for this for some time! Thanks so much for the great details! Q: when you back off the blade to get thinner shaving, do you run the thumbs crew back to the 'tightening' spot? Feel like leaving it backed off will let the blade creep back to even more thin shaving.
@@TheTranq Yeah, it's one of several 'I better do that' items that I can now stop doing - because of what he has covered in this video. (Thanks, Mr. C!)
I’ve noticed that three categories of shavings come from the plane throat. First is a shaving that is rolled up tight. Second is a shaving that is folded up like an accordion. And third, the shaving comes out in a straight flowing line. Will you please explain what causes each of these scenarios to occur. Additionally, what is the optimum shaving category from the plane throat?
Great explanation on reading shavings. I have a question regarding finishing I'm hoping someone could answer. When you say "no sanding required" - how does that effect the types of finishing like shellac, polyurethane, varnish etc? That is, if the wood surface is so smooth, will coatings have anything to bite into in order to adhere like a sanded surface? Thanks in advance.
Thanks!!! Great video!!! Practice, practice and practice ......at the end it will come as second nature.. love the sound of good shavings always brings we a smile ( trying to smile a lot).
Great video as always! I have a question about the very first strokes of the plane. As you advanced the blade and found the first shavings on the left side, you attribute that to the iron not being square, and you tweaked the lateral adjustment lever to correct that. How do you know the stock wasn’t simply higher on the left? If that was the case I imagine you would figure it out once you check it with a square, and perhaps you checked the stock before planing and that’s how you knew the problem was with the plane iron and not the edge of the board? Thanks for your time and amazing content!
At the 14:00 mark you said to move the plane over to get your board square and remove the high side. Why wouldnt you use the lateral adjustment and just bring the blade out further on the high side? Is it to keep from changing the blade or is there another reason? Thanks for all the great videos, I've learned so much! Once i get enough tools I hope to come to your class and learn from "my hand tool coach"!
The blade is set parallel to the sole, I am using that fact to my advantage. At that point the edge of th board is not square to the reference face. Since I know the blade is parallel to the plane sole I can remove the high side of the edge and when I am done take one or two passes and since I know my blade is parallel to the sole I wil bring the edge into flat once I get a full width shaving. If I moved the bale once I got a full width shaving I would be imparting that angle. There is no way I could guess at thw angle to bring it back to square. working in parallel is the way to go.
Great demonstration as always Rob, I have no idea where you find the time but please keep them coming. At the beginning you were planning a 5 foot aprox piece of stock, if you were going to use this piece in an actual project and not for deminstrational purposes would you have used the #7 or #8 instead of the #51/2 given how long the piece was?
Hey Rob, how much do you rotate the adjuster knob (AdjuSTAR) to get the couple thou shaving thickness difference? I feel like my LN 5 1/2 is too sensitive, just a couple of degree give me a couple thou difference. Is that normal? If it is not, how can I fix it? Thanks!
Yeah this is something I’m learning. The tiniest rotation makes a big difference. It’s even more pronounced with the adju-star knob with the greater leverage.
What's the chance of starting a new play list, Back to Basics? It may be some time before I use a specific tool again, since it is a hobby. So a good refresher series can remind me, and others, some of the finer points that we may have forgotten. Also, I specifically like this one, HOW TO READ THE Shaving. Is there an audio version for those of us who are too lazy to actually read the shaving?
I was thinking something more general and inclusive. As for your Hand Plane Basics, I missed that one and I looked through the list twice. Another idea, is that you do individual topics and then create a general basic woodworking playlist. Videos can be in more than one list. I think for my channel I have a couple in 4 different playlists. I do like the way you explain concepts in terms that are easily understood. Too me, this is a rare and great talent. If I went on an talked about your compassion I would have to write a book about the length of "War and Peace." Thank you for your service. Psalm 119:1-3. Thank you, again.
Something I’ve been wondering about Rob. I can make really thin shavings, but my shavings don’t come off the plane like your long whispy ones that you can pull. Mine almost always curl up in the area in front of the lever cap, above the iron and breaker. I’m suspecting that there is too much easing on the edges when I’m trying to hand sharpen, because I don’t hav plane tracks at all unless the blade is heavily skewed and also don’t get a full width shaving unless I take a heavier cut. I don’t own a bench grinder yet, but do have a sharpening jig. Secondary bevel seems a little rounded when I eyeball it. Is my troubleshooting thoughts on the right track, or is there other information that might help diagnose why I can’t pull a shaving like you do? Thanks Rob! Edit: at 19:36 I get quite a few shavings that look like that, kind of like expanded metal that hasn’t been expanded yet. Sometimes a defined edge when on the side of a board, but whispy on both sides often, like cotton candy. Thinking that may be a function of needing to sharpen and a very light cut though.
Rob, can you tell me which video it was, and it wasn't too long ago, where you mentioned the lamp that you use on your workbench and what you did too upgrade it? Thanks.
I imagine that the depth of cut has the same effect on the potential for tear-out as the width of the board dictates the maximum distancing of clamps in a glue -up. The deeper the cut, the more open the mouth, the shallower the angle of attack of the cutting edge, the more potential to lift and gouge out (tear-out) the grain rather than cut it. The shallower the cut, the more closed the mouth, the greater the angle of attack of the cutting edge, the less the capacity to lift the grain. And as usual, sharp always wins.
The only semi-correction I would make is that how open or closed is the mouth is a function of how thin a shaving you want in order to prevent tear out, which is obviously related to the depth of the blade. A very picky picky point but you are right on
Rob is it possible it’s difficult for me to get as thin as shaving as you because the sole of my plane is out about 0.003”? I imagine that makes it difficult to truly make very slight projection of the blade. I sharpen using your technique up to 16k Shapton
Yes, we have developed a version for vintage Stanley & Record planes. We’ve had a successful beta test and now we’re almost ready to release them. Sign up for our newsletter on our website and you’ll be notified as soon as they’re released.
I have been getting pretty good results using your methods, but still struggle with the plane tracks. It always seems like I'm playing ping pong with the lateral adjustment lever even with the smallest movements of the lever. Too much adjustment back and forth in order to correct, even though sometimes the movement is so small, its hard to detect. I might have to feather the corners of the cutting edge more during sharpening.
I have a question. Can you recommend of cheaper plane that might still work for a beginner as opposed to a lets say $200 one? On a disability budget lol
Hi Rob! First let me say. Love it! Now having said that. If your blade planes beautiful on a piece of wood but constantly tears on another. How would you know that no matter what you do, it's not the sharpening of the blade but it's the wood. How would you attack it then? Thanks!
@@felipehuibonhoa7338 Along with a shallower cut, a second blade with a back bevel of 20 to 25 degrees decreases (does not eliminate) the potential for tear-out. This increases the angle of attack to 65 to 70 degrees, thereby, decreasing the potential to get under and lift the grain. Make sure the leading edge of the mouth of the plane is in contact with the timber and close the mouth just enough to freely allow the desired shaving to pass through. This pushes down on the grain just in front of the blade and reduces the potential for the grain to lift.
Hello Rob, I really didn't expect to see this from one of my most preferred mentors. Sorry to say but at 15:45 that aint square Rob, ] I come HERE to see HONEST work. I can go elsewhere if I want to watch crouching tiger fiction. I use the same iron profile as yourself, maybe with not quite so little camber on my no.5 1/2, as I've a smoother for that. My other 5 1/2 is stationed on its side. I have no shame admitting it's not as easy and foolproof as it could be with say a Charlesworth 5 1/2 profiled iron, and if I had a bunch of spare double irons, I would try and see if honing the cap at a much higher angle i.e like 70+ degrees to see if it might have infulence with that profile, i.e further away from the edge. as it would be very nice to have a lot more of the plane resting on the wood, like you shown, since 50 degrees won't cut the mustard for my timbers. With that iron profile demonstrated, I haven't been able to achieve this , and must overhang the plane off the edge by a extremely large amount. I don't skew the iron, and note you do sometimes, so always have interest in your planing videos, since you're one of the only ones on youtube who uses a similar profile. I'd love to see a part two to this video. It would surely make some very interesting content. All the best Tom
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hi Rob Sorry about being a bit harsh this morning, that new camera doesn't miss a thing! One error in over 10 years isn't a bad score, guess I've come acustomed to the Cosman standard fit and finish 😉 I note that you are only using one plane in this case, and IMO thats asking it to do a lot. What I see is the cap iron in action with these particular shavings, and what is also evident is the less forgiving nature of the near straight iron/cutter. The only trouble is that the cap iron/chipbreaker needs to be so close, that a more common and trustworthy method for ensuring squareness , say like a Charlesworth profile won't work, if wanting this type of lovely cap iron infulenced shaving, IF... the cap iron/chipbreaker is honed at 50 degrees. I would like to see if it's possible to still achieve the same unbroken shavings with more camber, thus making one not have to teeter totter so much off the edge, and rest more of the plane on the timber. One of the folks who has been banging on about the cap iron, long before I was a woodworker, reckons around 80 degrees is his preference. I tried it very briefly honed at the 70 mark, after damaging the cap hitting cement from reclaimed tropical door components. What I didn't do however, was change my cap iron setting further away. I could have found out two things from this Could I have gotten more camber and still achieved tearout free unbroken straight shavings ? I also noted that the depth adjuster was a heck of a lot more sensitive, which was somewhat of a put off, compared to the cap honed at 50 degrees, and would like to find out if the cap was further back, would this be the same deal? I would love to try out some experiments if I had a few spare planes, or double irons but working reclaimed stock, so have left finding this out until the day that my plane might find some more cement, when I find another skip/dumpster, and even then I'd have to waste some steel of the cutter to create a larger camber, and if it wasn't to my liking, more wastage again. As said, there's not many folks using a near flat iron on the tube, and I always look forward to seeing this profile in action, as it ain't foolproof like so many make it out to be, like a bad kung fu film. This is why I come here, as that would have been edited out on many a channel. and fair enough the piece was seemingly not a component which we all know wouldn't have passed if it were. Only learned from the best us folks. I'll bet its not easy to do a lot of this stuff with the camera, i.e, can't be swinging an angle poise lamp in front of the viewers. Cheers, Rob PS great to see the workshops back up and running again! All the best Tom ,
I still don't fully understand how the plane even works well. The infeed and outfeed surfaces of the plane are on the same plane with the blade below them both. How does that not cause a problem by having a gap after the blade once the shaving is cut? Is just because the shaving is so small?
Because the infeed and out feed are in the same plane, it will eventually result in a humped surface and you will find the need to take the hump out by starting in the center and working your way back/forward on both ends. Rob talks about it in some of his other videos. You have to know how to determine when you have planes enough so that you don’t go beyond flat toward that hump.
I'd guess it might have something to do with the fact that the "outfeed table" is so much larger than the "infeed table" On a Stanley the toe is only like a third or a quarter the overall length, right? And for the longer ones like the no5, there's no reason that I can see why they wouldn't be able to put it in the middle, which implies to me that the proportions are intentional. Makes me curious to see a side by side comparison of planes with the frog in different places, frog all the way at the back, ask the way at the front, etc
follow my sharpening method in my how to sharpen a plane blade video and you can do it. We teach hundreds of folks how to do it every year with a 100% success rate. YOU CAN DO IT.
This is amazing. With your "10 secrets to better hand planing," and your "Hand Plane Basics - How to read the Shaving," I was able to square a board in record time.
Also, I happened to see another woodworker's video, a veteran, who went through your program. He said he'll never change how he sharpens blades again. Thank you for what you are doing. 👍👍
Rob, when I started watching your channel almost 2 years ago I thought I knew how to plane wood. I was wrong. Watching you plane wood, listening to the sounds your planes make, and learning from your instruction has taught me more about planing than I thought I would ever know. I’m starting to get to be a decent planer, even. I can’t thank you enough for that. (Unless it’s by buying more good tools from you!) This is a great, condensed lesson. Keep them coming!
Being a busy cabinet shop, it's hard for me to stop work work, to break out my planes and use them, and have some fun. But once I'm finished with the job, I will have some fun and build something with my hand tools. Always great to watch Rob use his plane.
Rob, watching you work with planes takes me back to when I was a child watching 'pappy'(my grandfather) working in his shop making furniture. The sound of the plane cutting through the wood takes me back to where I can almost smell the mixture of the wood, glue and the finishes. Thanks for the journey and tips. Unfortunately I didn't 'inherit' his skills or learn them.
But you can learn it.....give it a try
There is nothing more beautiful and relaxing then in a shop using hand tools. Great stress reliever especially with a demanding work life. I'm a retired Engineer. Believe me...I know. Start now. It's fun and you can do it. The joy is in the journey. You have easy access to people like Rob. Take advantage of it while you can!
Never to late to start - learning is very satisfying (and sometimes frustrating - like everything in life that is worth pursuing!) And if you really want to have a great week learning - take one of Rob's courses, in person (when that becomes available). I'm guessing you'll find it one of the best times you've ever spent (like I did...)
Thanks Rob and team, the tip at 17:22 about the blade edge breaking down is super valuable: I'll know exactly when to resharpen my blade now
Yes thats hughly important sharpen more often and you will be happier with th eresults
Yes I did get an Aha moment too when he said it's time to sharpen. Are there any more clues when it's time to sharpen?
That's how my shavings look right after I sharpen :(
@Adam I was here exactly to see if such a type of shaving would have been mentioned ;)
I like it when I think I’ve done a good job planing a piece of wood, then hold it almost flat to my eye and can see a reflection with colors and shapes, almost like a mirror in the surface of the wood that only I know about.
Great morning from ROCKPORT Tx.
I Followed your instructions on the TREND &SHAPTON system . My go to is a STANLEY # 5 with factory iron. We have Sapele,Alder,Soft Maple & Red Oak at our local lumber yard. With your instructions I can get .002 or better on all of these and Poplar its .001. The money I spent on other systems before I bought yours I could have a second or third set. Thanks again. BenJammin
Great job...I know how you feel about spending money and chasing sharpening systems.
This video even surpassed "6 common planing mistakes." Very relevant info!
Wow...Thanks
Reading the shaving in these ways is a good thing to know. Thanks.
Glad to help
very nice technique on getting a 90 degree angle on a board
It matters not how many times I watch those shavings, they are magic. Even on harder woods the fine shavings are so soft. I can understand how a student would want to plan and feel all the fine soft wood. O and the smell each wood gives. Yet another master class!
A superb practical lesson on how to plan and square a piece of wood and also a demonstration of how to set a blade on a hand plane.
Thanks for the lesson.
I find not much is as satisfying as a full width, full length plane shaving with a newly sharpened blade. And not much is a frustrating as trying to coax out a few more passes when you're already past when you should have resharpened the blade. Thanks for the tips and another fine video!
Brilliant tuition as per usual.
Your generosity makes the world a better place!
Never get tired watching you do this (and dovetails). Ever since I was in a plane restoration class of yours at Woodcraft...long long ago.
Excellent video - Thanks for sharing.
Just watch the short piece on CBC today. Seems to be the same long piece of wood. Thank you for the content, Mr Cosman.
I think it is
Not that my opinion means much but this is the best instruction I have watched on using a hand plane and how to read the shavings to tune your work for a perfect, no-sanding required, finish. Thank you Rob for sharing your expertise.
Wow Thnaks Bob...tell your friends and get some more folks to subscribe to our channel
When a shaving comes straight up out of the plane and has no voids in it at all, you know you have the cap iron set properly. If you can go against grain runout and still have the same, you know you *really* have it set right.
Again this is why you are the Professor. Thanks Rob for all the time and effort you put into these videos. Hey boiled peanuts, hope you are doing well Col. Shealy.
You gotta love boiled peanuts!!!!!
A pleasure to watch. “Only rub sole in one direction.” Cats, too. Words to live by. Thanks for the video.
Love the"whooosh". Very light plane tracks sometimes known as makers mark. My opinion, for what it's worth. Thanks for the look.
Thanks for watching!
Love it. A lot of info here. Not only what is said, but what he does without saying. I listen AND watch and learn something. And thanks for keeping it simple Rob. Good one.
Thats great feedback...thanks
Just finished my practice for today after watching this. What a difference. I've got my nicest shavings ever. Next on the list is the Shapton 16000 glass stone and more practice!
What kind of plane do you own?
Just plane amazing technique~! ;-)
Thanks! This was really helpful. I have watched of planing videos but none have covered this topic so well.
Simply put. You're a good teacher. Thanks for sharing.
You are very welcome
I had an inkling of some of what you covered, but it's so good to have what I thought was right to be confirmed. Thanks Rob!
Thanks for watching and commenting
wow, thanks
great vid
Rob,
I never skip any of your lessons.
I have a question that is off subject but I value your opinions.
In almost every project I see, wood is put through a planner.
Is that a ‘must have’ tool for my
‘starting out’ shop? I will not be making furniture or high quality items. Mostly craft items using
wood I’ve found for a rustic look. Thank you! Louis.
based on what you plan to do, I would say no to a planer right now.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking
Rob, Thanks for the quick reply and the advice.
I've been waiting for this for some time! Thanks so much for the great details! Q: when you back off the blade to get thinner shaving, do you run the thumbs crew back to the 'tightening' spot? Feel like leaving it backed off will let the blade creep back to even more thin shaving.
Nope I just back it off and leave it where I want
@art swri I was wondering that too if when he backs it off if he then rotates forward again to get rid the backlash and support the blade.
@@TheTranq Yeah, it's one of several 'I better do that' items that I can now stop doing - because of what he has covered in this video. (Thanks, Mr. C!)
Love gleaning knowledge from the master
Superb.
I’ve noticed that three categories of shavings come from the plane throat. First is a shaving that is rolled up tight. Second is a shaving that is folded up like an accordion. And third, the shaving comes out in a straight flowing line. Will you please explain what causes each of these scenarios to occur. Additionally, what is the optimum shaving category from the plane throat?
Rob, do you teach Perfectly. I have a dream of being one of your students.
Great explanation on reading shavings. I have a question regarding finishing I'm hoping someone could answer.
When you say "no sanding required" - how does that effect the types of finishing like shellac, polyurethane, varnish etc? That is, if the wood surface is so smooth, will coatings have anything to bite into in order to adhere like a sanded surface? Thanks in advance.
Complimenti sempre molto interessanti video ben fatti sto imparando guardandoli peccato che non capisco
Thanks!!! Great video!!! Practice, practice and practice ......at the end it will come as second nature.. love the sound of good shavings always brings we a smile ( trying to smile a lot).
shooooooose....music to my ears
Once again, you never fail to impress!
Well thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks for the information, Rob.
you bet
I’M STILL HERE BOSS ! Got a lot going on (good stuff) I’ll catch up soon! God Bless our Vets !
Great video as always! I have a question about the very first strokes of the plane. As you advanced the blade and found the first shavings on the left side, you attribute that to the iron not being square, and you tweaked the lateral adjustment lever to correct that. How do you know the stock wasn’t simply higher on the left? If that was the case I imagine you would figure it out once you check it with a square, and perhaps you checked the stock before planing and that’s how you knew the problem was with the plane iron and not the edge of the board? Thanks for your time and amazing content!
At the 14:00 mark you said to move the plane over to get your board square and remove the high side. Why wouldnt you use the lateral adjustment and just bring the blade out further on the high side? Is it to keep from changing the blade or is there another reason? Thanks for all the great videos, I've learned so much! Once i get enough tools I hope to come to your class and learn from "my hand tool coach"!
The blade is set parallel to the sole, I am using that fact to my advantage. At that point the edge of th board is not square to the reference face. Since I know the blade is parallel to the plane sole I can remove the high side of the edge and when I am done take one or two passes and since I know my blade is parallel to the sole I wil bring the edge into flat once I get a full width shaving. If I moved the bale once I got a full width shaving I would be imparting that angle. There is no way I could guess at thw angle to bring it back to square. working in parallel is the way to go.
Great demonstration as always Rob, I have no idea where you find the time but please keep them coming.
At the beginning you were planning a 5 foot aprox piece of stock, if you were going to use this piece in an actual project and not for deminstrational purposes would you have used the #7 or #8 instead of the #51/2 given how long the piece was?
Hey Rob, how much do you rotate the adjuster knob (AdjuSTAR) to get the couple thou shaving thickness difference? I feel like my LN 5 1/2 is too sensitive, just a couple of degree give me a couple thou difference. Is that normal? If it is not, how can I fix it? Thanks!
My adjustments (Rotation) when I am getting close are very, very, very small.....It sounds like yours is working properly
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Good to know. Thanks a lot, Rob.
Yeah this is something I’m learning. The tiniest rotation makes a big difference. It’s even more pronounced with the adju-star knob with the greater leverage.
What's the chance of starting a new play list, Back to Basics? It may be some time before I use a specific tool again, since it is a hobby. So a good refresher series can remind me, and others, some of the finer points that we may have forgotten. Also, I specifically like this one, HOW TO READ THE Shaving. Is there an audio version for those of us who are too lazy to actually read the shaving?
We already have a playlist called "Hand Plane Basics" is that what you are talking about?
I was thinking something more general and inclusive. As for your Hand Plane Basics, I missed that one and I looked through the list twice. Another idea, is that you do individual topics and then create a general basic woodworking playlist. Videos can be in more than one list. I think for my channel I have a couple in 4 different playlists. I do like the way you explain concepts in terms that are easily understood. Too me, this is a rare and great talent. If I went on an talked about your compassion I would have to write a book about the length of "War and Peace." Thank you for your service. Psalm 119:1-3. Thank you, again.
Something I’ve been wondering about Rob. I can make really thin shavings, but my shavings don’t come off the plane like your long whispy ones that you can pull. Mine almost always curl up in the area in front of the lever cap, above the iron and breaker. I’m suspecting that there is too much easing on the edges when I’m trying to hand sharpen, because I don’t hav plane tracks at all unless the blade is heavily skewed and also don’t get a full width shaving unless I take a heavier cut. I don’t own a bench grinder yet, but do have a sharpening jig. Secondary bevel seems a little rounded when I eyeball it. Is my troubleshooting thoughts on the right track, or is there other information that might help diagnose why I can’t pull a shaving like you do? Thanks Rob!
Edit: at 19:36 I get quite a few shavings that look like that, kind of like expanded metal that hasn’t been expanded yet. Sometimes a defined edge when on the side of a board, but whispy on both sides often, like cotton candy. Thinking that may be a function of needing to sharpen and a very light cut though.
I’m with you on your question
Maybe we feather the corners too much
Rob, can you tell me which video it was, and it wasn't too long ago, where you mentioned the lamp that you use on your workbench and what you did too upgrade it? Thanks.
Rob, does the wax on the sole effect any finish you put on the wood?
I imagine that the depth of cut has the same effect on the potential for tear-out as the width of the board dictates the maximum distancing of clamps in a glue -up. The deeper the cut, the more open the mouth, the shallower the angle of attack of the cutting edge, the more potential to lift and gouge out (tear-out) the grain rather than cut it. The shallower the cut, the more closed the mouth, the greater the angle of attack of the cutting edge, the less the capacity to lift the grain. And as usual, sharp always wins.
The only semi-correction I would make is that how open or closed is the mouth is a function of how thin a shaving you want in order to prevent tear out, which is obviously related to the depth of the blade. A very picky picky point but you are right on
Rob is it possible it’s difficult for me to get as thin as shaving as you because the sole of my plane is out about 0.003”? I imagine that makes it difficult to truly make very slight projection of the blade. I sharpen using your technique up to 16k Shapton
Great Instruction with the exception of the practise of setting the plane down on the sole.
old wives tale.
Hi! Thank you for sharing! Is that a custom adjustment wheel on your plane? Can we get those for Stanley planes as well??
Yes, we have developed a version for vintage Stanley & Record planes. We’ve had a successful beta test and now we’re almost ready to release them. Sign up for our newsletter on our website and you’ll be notified as soon as they’re released.
I have been getting pretty good results using your methods, but still struggle with the plane tracks. It always seems like I'm playing ping pong with the lateral adjustment lever even with the smallest movements of the lever. Too much adjustment back and forth in order to correct, even though sometimes the movement is so small, its hard to detect. I might have to feather the corners of the cutting edge more during sharpening.
Tapping the iron with a small hammer will give you finer control!
Rob may I ask(may have miss) how thick are those cuts?
Sub-thou shavings, or
So far the thinnest I’ve gotten is 2 thou. I have some practicing to do for sure.
Hi Rob. Another great utube KMDC fromm Oz
Thnaks for the comment
I have a question. Can you recommend of cheaper plane that might still work for a beginner as opposed to a lets say $200 one? On a disability budget lol
Hi Rob! First let me say. Love it! Now having said that. If your blade planes beautiful on a piece of wood but constantly tears on another. How would you know that no matter what you do, it's not the sharpening of the blade but it's the wood. How would you attack it then? Thanks!
Sometimes a scraper or sandpaper is the only way. A plane can't handle every type of wood ever full stop. Some would is just a nightmare
You are right. I was hoping though there was a way using the plane or getting the blade even sharper for those type of wood.
@@felipehuibonhoa7338 Along with a shallower cut, a second blade with a back bevel of 20 to 25 degrees decreases (does not eliminate) the potential for tear-out. This increases the angle of attack to 65 to 70 degrees, thereby, decreasing the potential to get under and lift the grain. Make sure the leading edge of the mouth of the plane is in contact with the timber and close the mouth just enough to freely allow the desired shaving to pass through. This pushes down on the grain just in front of the blade and reduces the potential for the grain to lift.
@@1deerndingo Thank you. I'll try it.
@@felipehuibonhoa7338 These are just things that Rob has taught and I have found to be effective. They are in other videos he has posted for us.
Where can i find one of those 16,000 stones
what does it mean when the shaving is powdery? do i have to adjust the throat?
Blade isn’t sharp. If you advance the blade further you should be able to pull out a thick shaving
Hello Rob, I really didn't expect to see this from one of my most preferred mentors.
Sorry to say but at 15:45 that aint square Rob, ]
I come HERE to see HONEST work.
I can go elsewhere if I want to watch crouching tiger fiction.
I use the same iron profile as yourself, maybe with not quite so little camber
on my no.5 1/2, as I've a smoother for that.
My other 5 1/2 is stationed on its side.
I have no shame admitting it's not as easy and foolproof as it could be with say a Charlesworth
5 1/2 profiled iron,
and if I had a bunch of spare double irons, I would try and see if honing the cap at a much higher angle
i.e like 70+ degrees to see if it might have infulence with that profile,
i.e further away from the edge.
as it would be very nice to have a lot more of the plane resting on the wood, like you shown,
since 50 degrees won't cut the mustard for my timbers.
With that iron profile demonstrated, I haven't been able to achieve this , and
must overhang the plane off the edge by a extremely large amount.
I don't skew the iron, and note you do sometimes, so always have interest in your planing videos,
since you're one of the only ones on youtube who uses a similar profile.
I'd love to see a part two to this video.
It would surely make some very interesting content.
All the best
Tom
What would you want to see in part 2 and will make it
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hi Rob
Sorry about being a bit harsh this morning, that new camera doesn't miss a thing!
One error in over 10 years isn't a bad score, guess I've come acustomed to the Cosman standard fit and finish 😉
I note that you are only using one plane in this case, and IMO thats asking it to do a lot.
What I see is the cap iron in action with these particular shavings, and what is also evident is the less forgiving nature of the near straight iron/cutter.
The only trouble is that the cap iron/chipbreaker needs to be so close, that a more
common and trustworthy method for ensuring squareness ,
say like a Charlesworth profile won't work,
if wanting this type of lovely cap iron infulenced shaving, IF...
the cap iron/chipbreaker is honed at 50 degrees.
I would like to see if it's possible to still achieve the same unbroken shavings
with more camber, thus making one not have to teeter totter so much off the edge,
and rest more of the plane on the timber.
One of the folks who has been banging on about the cap iron, long before I was a woodworker, reckons around 80 degrees is his preference.
I tried it very briefly honed at the 70 mark, after damaging the cap hitting cement from reclaimed tropical door components.
What I didn't do however, was change my cap iron setting further away.
I could have found out two things from this
Could I have gotten more camber and still achieved tearout free unbroken straight shavings ?
I also noted that the depth adjuster was a heck of a lot more sensitive, which was somewhat of a put off, compared to the cap honed at 50 degrees,
and would like to find out if the cap was further back, would this be the same deal?
I would love to try out some experiments if I had a few spare planes, or double irons
but working reclaimed stock, so have left finding this out until the day that my plane might find some more cement, when I find another skip/dumpster, and even then
I'd have to waste some steel of the cutter to create a larger camber,
and if it wasn't to my liking, more wastage again.
As said, there's not many folks using a near flat iron on the tube,
and I always look forward to seeing this profile in action,
as it ain't foolproof like so many make it out to be, like a bad kung fu film.
This is why I come here, as that would have been edited out on many a channel.
and fair enough the piece was seemingly not a component which we all know wouldn't have passed if it were.
Only learned from the best us folks.
I'll bet its not easy to do a lot of this stuff with the camera,
i.e, can't be swinging an angle poise lamp in front of the viewers.
Cheers, Rob
PS great to see the workshops back up and running again!
All the best
Tom
,
"nice surface, no sanding required"; "and there's no sanding to be done". these are the best things to say
Its the best surface out there
Yeah not only does it eliminate the horrible dust producing sanding, it leaves an even better looking surface.
I'm a mechanic. Should have become a wood worker. Over 40. First step?
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
😀
Weat your nombr
Is there anything as satisfying as hand planing? I don’t think so.
Well after 50....no
I still don't fully understand how the plane even works well. The infeed and outfeed surfaces of the plane are on the same plane with the blade below them both. How does that not cause a problem by having a gap after the blade once the shaving is cut? Is just because the shaving is so small?
Because the infeed and out feed are in the same plane, it will eventually result in a humped surface and you will find the need to take the hump out by starting in the center and working your way back/forward on both ends. Rob talks about it in some of his other videos. You have to know how to determine when you have planes enough so that you don’t go beyond flat toward that hump.
Ebby Eberhard speaks the truth (Thanks Ebby), Dont fret too much over the physics. I cant explain it either. But a plane does work, accept it
I'd guess it might have something to do with the fact that the "outfeed table" is so much larger than the "infeed table"
On a Stanley the toe is only like a third or a quarter the overall length, right? And for the longer ones like the no5, there's no reason that I can see why they wouldn't be able to put it in the middle, which implies to me that the proportions are intentional.
Makes me curious to see a side by side comparison of planes with the frog in different places, frog all the way at the back, ask the way at the front, etc
Secondo il tuo parere le pialle rider sono all'altezza
So what to get a 5½. But there all out of stock.
We just got told our long overdue order of 5-1/2 will be here (likely be here) in a month
Wow. Wish I could order for you and get the plainer service y'all offer. But I'm in the u.s. Lol.
I’ve never succeeded in making it that sharp.
follow my sharpening method in my how to sharpen a plane blade video and you can do it. We teach hundreds of folks how to do it every year with a 100% success rate. YOU CAN DO IT.
hahaha........there he goes again.......showing off with that shaving....unbelievable
Weat is your nombr
1st comment...2 x gold stars