I read that you should leave 1.5 inches of deck board past the joist to protect the joist. This looks like your joists are going to get very wet without the added 1.5 inch protection.
The joists are pressure treated and rated for underground use. I didn’t like the idea of an overhang because when I’m mowing the overhang acts like a cheese grater on my arm if I hit it by accident.
This is brilliant! Thank you so much. However, wondering if you have a good way of trimming a single, over-hanging board at the end of the deck? This is what I've always struggled with.
Pete, The key is trimming that last board or two before you nail or screw it down. If you didn’t do that you’re gonna have to take a piece of sheet metal to protect your vinyl siding or wood siding and use a handsaw to finish the job slowly but surely.
I prefer a cleaner look versus the overhang. Also.. many decks have the 4x4 railing posts mounted to the outside. My method makes that easier, with no boards to be trimmed around the posts.
@@PompanoBrownie did you add any fascia or anything to cover those cut ends? Never done this before and we cut the ends off flush on my deck we are re doing. Is it just a style preference? After reading online I'm worried as soo many people say there needs to be overhang.
I’ve always put my deck boards bark side up. A couple of reasons, my deck boards are usually soaking wet when installed, because they come fresh from a high-quality lumber company. When installing extremely wet lumber, it’s common for the top side to cup if you place them bark side down. Another reason I like bark side up is that there is more sapwood on the bark side, and sapwood accepts stain better than the other side. you’ll get answers on both side of the fence if you ask enough people. The bottom line is, put the best side up if you’ve got a bad looking side. Depending on how they’re cut at the mill, you can have bark up on one end. and down on the other. Thank you for asking.
In that caseGlenn, I would put the prettiest side up, and use good deck screws not spaced together too tightly. Two screws, about 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 from the edge of the decking.
@@PompanoBrownie Thanks for the input! I'm a novice with no experience doing this with a tempermental back issue. Replacing a lot of deck boards. I was looking at the camo marksman to help me but it's spaced 1 1/16. what do you think?
Glenn, only two screws are needed at each joist connection. Like I said, I like between one and 1/8 inch to 1 1/4 inch from the edge of the bullnose decking. Make sure you’re not using a screw gun. You want to use an impact driver, preferably by Dewalt. It will make the job much easier and make sure you have that second battery charged ready to go. I prefer 3” over 2 1/2”screws.
Thanks Mark, I learned the hard way years ago when I needed to trim some boards and afterwards wanted to put a picture frame board around the outside of my trimmed boards. Because I didn’t use this method I had some pretty nasty looking gaps and knew I had to come up with a better way. Glad I could help you.
Love it! & the chalk line like you said isn't 100% the way to mark with composite decking, harder to mark
I read that you should leave 1.5 inches of deck board past the joist to protect the joist. This looks like your joists are going to get very wet without the added 1.5 inch protection.
The joists are pressure treated and rated for underground use. I didn’t like the idea of an overhang because when I’m mowing the overhang acts like a cheese grater on my arm if I hit it by accident.
I like this idea. But serious question, and I know you’ve tried this, but why not run the circular saw along a straight edge?
Ricky, because there is no such thing as a perfectly straight floor joist. You will end up with less than perfect results.
This is brilliant! Thank you so much. However, wondering if you have a good way of trimming a single, over-hanging board at the end of the deck? This is what I've always struggled with.
Pete, The key is trimming that last board or two before you nail or screw it down. If you didn’t do that you’re gonna have to take a piece of sheet metal to protect your vinyl siding or wood siding and use a handsaw to finish the job slowly but surely.
Thanks! Many say to leave an overhang on the edge to protect the joist. Thoughts?
I prefer a cleaner look versus the overhang. Also.. many decks have the 4x4 railing posts mounted to the outside. My method makes that easier, with no boards to be trimmed around the posts.
Great idea. You might have just saved me from making a mess of mine. Cheers!
David , I had to mess up a few before I decided to come up with this. Lol
Excellent idea thank you
Why not just make a straight line 1" - 1.5" past the joist and cut there?
Becca, because that overhang will scrape your arm like a Cheese Grater when mowing the lawn.
Perfect! Just what I needed! Thanks for sharing
Thanks John! I like thin kerf blades for pressure treated too.
Wish I would’ve seen your video before my first deck. Super cool idea!
Thanks Dave, I like it better than using the 3/4” overhang method because when I’m mowing it doesn’t shred my arms. 😆
Love it sir. Simple and perfect!
But where's the 3/4 inch overhang??
Chuck, there is no overhang with this style.
@@PompanoBrownie did you add any fascia or anything to cover those cut ends? Never done this before and we cut the ends off flush on my deck we are re doing. Is it just a style preference? After reading online I'm worried as soo many people say there needs to be overhang.
Brian, I left it as is. If you put on facia it will be perfect too. Just a matter of choice.
I notice your boards are bark side up. Doesn't cupping happen that way or am I wrong?
I’ve always put my deck boards bark side up. A couple of reasons, my deck boards are usually soaking wet when installed, because they come fresh from a high-quality lumber company. When installing extremely wet lumber, it’s common for the top side to cup if you place them bark side down. Another reason I like bark side up is that there is more sapwood on the bark side, and sapwood accepts stain better than the other side. you’ll get answers on both side of the fence if you ask enough people. The bottom line is, put the best side up if you’ve got a bad looking side. Depending on how they’re cut at the mill, you can have bark up on one end. and down on the other. Thank you for asking.
@@PompanoBrownie thank you for the explanation! my deck boards should be pretty dry by the time I do the job
In that caseGlenn, I would put the prettiest side up, and use good deck screws not spaced together too tightly. Two screws, about 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 from the edge of the decking.
@@PompanoBrownie Thanks for the input! I'm a novice with no experience doing this with a tempermental back issue. Replacing a lot of deck boards. I was looking at the camo marksman to help me but it's spaced 1 1/16. what do you think?
Glenn, only two screws are needed at each joist connection. Like I said, I like between one and 1/8 inch to 1 1/4 inch from the edge of the bullnose decking. Make sure you’re not using a screw gun. You want to use an impact driver, preferably by Dewalt. It will make the job much easier and make sure you have that second battery charged ready to go. I prefer 3” over 2 1/2”screws.
Dude! Thank you!
Glad to help Bob!
Thank you, this is what I needed!
Thanks Mark, I learned the hard way years ago when I needed to trim some boards and afterwards wanted to put a picture frame board around the outside of my trimmed boards. Because I didn’t use this method I had some pretty nasty looking gaps and knew I had to come up with a better way. Glad I could help you.
Appreciate the share
Thanks Josh
Cool trick! Although I prefer to let boards overhang the edge just pushes runoff away from joists.