Hey there! Love your videos and they help a ton with what the topics are covering!! Hopefully you gain a few new subscribers from the RV transport world!!
@@WeekendTruckin not yet. Changing water pump this weekend. Tech said he had this problem before. Fins in water pump were broken not allowing the water to circulate enough
Your temps are normal. I noticed you said you like to lug the truck for fuel mileage, that’s not necessarily a good thing for the truck. When you lug the engine your not causing enough exhaust pressure which in turn turns the turbo impeller which in turn pushes more air into the cylinders , which makes the fuel burn more efficiently and also allows the engine to run cooler. Also lugging causes high exhaust temps which is not good for turbo. Just remember diesels are opposite of gas engines as far as when a diesel is running rich it causes it to run hotter. Where as when a gas engine runs rich it runs cooler. I’m not trying to be a windbag here but my point is your trying to stay in lower rpms May be harder on the engine than you think. It’s hard to tell you where to run it because engine rpms, your trucks gear ratio and the speed you want to run are all part of the equation. These trucks have ecm controlled fans so there are 4-5 different inputs these things pick up to operate. Now with that said if your fan is working properly then you may notice that your truck may run 5 -10 degrees cooler when your a/c is on because the fan cycles on and off more frequently. My suggestion would be run higher cruising rpms, I don’t recommend using cruise when loaded at least not on hilly terrain. In the last 20 years or so engine manufacturers started running hotter engine temps for better fuel efficiency, so 200-210 is normal for operating in high ambient temps. My concern would be if u constantly start seeing 220 plus. Then start searching for an issue. Sorry for long post.
I appreciate all the insight! And that’s good to know and reassuring that it hasn’t ever gotten up to 220! I don’t believe I’m lugging the engine. From the Cummins website it’s peak torque rpm is 1300 and I just hooked up my new scan tool for it yesterday to look at live data it would give me and it had a part that said the ideal operating rpm was 1300 for it. It’s definitely different than when I had my Ford but I think it’s just how bigger engines work… I have to shift around 1800-1900 rpms or it sounds like it’s redlining! The tach gauge only goes up to 3000 rpms as well.
Sorry man. I wasn’t trying to insult in any way just wanted to give some things to think about when your driving. Play around with different rpms and gears. You very well may not be lugging it, that’s why I mentioned it depends on what gear ratios you have. I’m curious what engine and transmission do you have? I have a 6 speed manual hooked to a 5.9 Cummins and Cummins says peak torque is 14 to 1600. I’d be running up hills in 3rd or 4th gear with a big toy hauler on. These engine manufactures give out peak torque and horsepower and all that fancy stuff but those things are also determined on closed courses with predetermined loads. I’m not saying there numbers aren’t correct I just thing those numbers are fluid to the situations you are in. All in all your temps don’t seem anywhere out of the ordinary for those ambient temps.
@@cj3518 Aaaa. Shut it already!! Ha ha ...Hey man I own two trucks w cummins 5.9 one w automatic and the 2006 is is manual both duellys. I love those trucks they are both pre deff or pre smog crap. And I got them both sitting right now. I was doing hot shot till the covid shut me down. I'm probably not going out on the road again. I am 61 almost ready to take retirement in 6 monts. I did not want to quit but start up cost is too much. But anyway man I hope you have a good sense of humor I like to joke around like old school days but seems it's not always taken as fun sometimes. These days folks can be sensitive especially the young ones. I miss the days when guys would sling the bull and everyone just took it in stride. Good times back then.
2003, we converted a 1997 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle. Cummins 8.3 250/800 mechanical through an Allison 3060. 14,000# across the scale tugging a 12,000# toy-hauler or 8,000# Dodge Cummins 4x4. . I stay at 1825, and this gives exactly 180... the numbers on the twin thermostats. . We chug up rough logger tracks to remote mountain lakes at barely above idle -- with a significant opportunity to scald -- so I fabricated a steel coolant-recovery tank, and mounted it high behind the cab. Maybe the new tank and location makes a diff -- I do not know -- but some folks just have to fiddle with stuff. . I will send your e-mail a snap.
@@WeekendTruckin This works because the remote tank has two medium-size in-hoses and one full-size suction hose. Coolant constantly circulates through my remote tank. My use of 'coolant-recovery' or 'reservoir' was inaccurate. I hope this helps!
Also, I was just on the road with my trailer for the last few weeks pulling it with a 17 F350 through the mountains with the outside temp around 90°. Temps hovered around 215 and would come back down when the fan engaged. I would be alarmed at 220 plus if it never came back down to the 190s. The fins your seeing that are bent are the condenser for the AC which could be blocking air flow.
If you’re super concerned, have a shop do a flush and fill on your coolant. Personally during the heat of the summer, I don’t get nervous until about 220 on my Ram. With a proper 50/50 mix the boiling point of coolant is 256f. Most important don’t shut your truck off if the engine temp is over 200. Let it idle until it comes down.
To open/straighten the condenser fins, a HVAC shop has a fin-comb. Any radiator shop uses a fin-comb as part of a rod-out. . Some operators mount a heavy-gauge 'window-screen' material in front of the radiator package to absorb impacts from big bugs and mid-size flying fish. . For moose or kangaroo, I would go with the extra-heavy gauge...
I drive an M2 pulling 22'000 pounds every day and on hotter days mine will run up to about 215 then the fan will activate and bring it back down to about 180.
Hey George! I wouldn’t say I’m a vet by any means! 😆 but loads for singles seem to be getting back to normal at IT. I have no clue if it will remain like that or if they’ll get backed up on parts again, but the orders from dealerships keep coming in!
Every truck is a little different but I think it is safe to say anything under 225ish is ok. My chevy runs at 210. All your diesel engines are rated for a much higher temp. Due to compressed explosion instead of ignited.
Hey Brian! Thanks for the insight!! I’m definitely feeling a little more at ease after all the comments on the 220 mark and how everyone’s is typically running around 200 in the heat!
That is not your radiator it is your AC condenser!!! Downshift and make it easier on your motor. Also you are cooking your turbo prob red hot and make sure to run the motor for 10 mins when you stop to not coke up your turbo
Hey Bruce! I wasn’t sure what the little one in the front was but knew it’s part of the cooling system and looks a little beat up. I typically never shut my truck off right away when I stop and never let the rpms get above 1600,1700 when I’m driving down the road!
Driven M2's for 100's of thousands of miles now. Currently my '16 has 400,000 on it, but I have the complete opposite question: Is 2,000 RPM's too high for a 240 horse 6.7 Cummins through an Allison 6-spd 2600RDS to a Detroit rear axle @ 5.22? Truck is rated @ 26,000 pounds and runs that and then some all over Western US. A hundred thousand miles back I upped the governor to 70. So I run 'er all day every day with cruise control set @ 70 turnin' 1,950 RPM's. I would submit humbly in my opinion 1,300 - 1,600 RPM's is too low. But 2k might be too high. Just my two cents. Would love to have a fellers thoughts. Have a blessed day y'all.
I definitely don't have enough mechanical knowledge to give sound advice on that, but I try to keep it around the 1500 rpm mark and I get better fuel economy. A mechanic told me I should be shifting around 1800-1900 rpms with it when I first bought it so I just try not to be that high when driving but I have been in the past when I really need to get somewhere. It stopped working on me, but I loved using my code reader for live data and having the "work load" on the screen so I could always see how hard the engine is working. That always made me more aware of when I'd need to break the cruise, etc. Safe travels out there!!
@@WeekendTruckin For sure. Thank you! I do feel it's a bit high. Work load on screen would be great. I plan to see how long until this engine needs a rebuild. Thanks for responding!
Found you!!! lol. Sounds like you are trying all the right things! It'd deffinately been a hot one out there for sure.
Hey there! Love your videos and they help a ton with what the topics are covering!! Hopefully you gain a few new subscribers from the RV transport world!!
Very good advice! Great video!
Did you get your problems fixed yet!?
@@WeekendTruckin not yet. Changing water pump this weekend. Tech said he had this problem before. Fins in water pump were broken not allowing the water to circulate enough
Your temps are normal. I noticed you said you like to lug the truck for fuel mileage, that’s not necessarily a good thing for the truck. When you lug the engine your not causing enough exhaust pressure which in turn turns the turbo impeller which in turn pushes more air into the cylinders , which makes the fuel burn more efficiently and also allows the engine to run cooler. Also lugging causes high exhaust temps which is not good for turbo. Just remember diesels are opposite of gas engines as far as when a diesel is running rich it causes it to run hotter. Where as when a gas engine runs rich it runs cooler. I’m not trying to be a windbag here but my point is your trying to stay in lower rpms May be harder on the engine than you think. It’s hard to tell you where to run it because engine rpms, your trucks gear ratio and the speed you want to run are all part of the equation. These trucks have ecm controlled fans so there are 4-5 different inputs these things pick up to operate. Now with that said if your fan is working properly then you may notice that your truck may run 5 -10 degrees cooler when your a/c is on because the fan cycles on and off more frequently. My suggestion would be run higher cruising rpms, I don’t recommend using cruise when loaded at least not on hilly terrain. In the last 20 years or so engine manufacturers started running hotter engine temps for better fuel efficiency, so 200-210 is normal for operating in high ambient temps. My concern would be if u constantly start seeing 220 plus. Then start searching for an issue. Sorry for long post.
You would be correct
I appreciate all the insight! And that’s good to know and reassuring that it hasn’t ever gotten up to 220!
I don’t believe I’m lugging the engine. From the Cummins website it’s peak torque rpm is 1300 and I just hooked up my new scan tool for it yesterday to look at live data it would give me and it had a part that said the ideal operating rpm was 1300 for it. It’s definitely different than when I had my Ford but I think it’s just how bigger engines work… I have to shift around 1800-1900 rpms or it sounds like it’s redlining! The tach gauge only goes up to 3000 rpms as well.
Your a windbag lol just kidding 😂😆😅
Sorry man. I wasn’t trying to insult in any way just wanted to give some things to think about when your driving. Play around with different rpms and gears. You very well may not be lugging it, that’s why I mentioned it depends on what gear ratios you have. I’m curious what engine and transmission do you have? I have a 6 speed manual hooked to a 5.9 Cummins and Cummins says peak torque is 14 to 1600. I’d be running up hills in 3rd or 4th gear with a big toy hauler on. These engine manufactures give out peak torque and horsepower and all that fancy stuff but those things are also determined on closed courses with predetermined loads. I’m not saying there numbers aren’t correct I just thing those numbers are fluid to the situations you are in. All in all your temps don’t seem anywhere out of the ordinary for those ambient temps.
@@cj3518 Aaaa. Shut it already!! Ha ha ...Hey man I own two trucks w cummins 5.9 one w automatic and the 2006 is is manual both duellys. I love those trucks they are both pre deff or pre smog crap. And I got them both sitting right now. I was doing hot shot till the covid shut me down. I'm probably not going out on the road again. I am 61 almost ready to take retirement in 6 monts. I did not want to quit but start up cost is too much. But anyway man I hope you have a good sense of humor I like to joke around like old school days but seems it's not always taken as fun sometimes. These days folks can be sensitive especially the young ones. I miss the days when guys would sling the bull and everyone just took it in stride. Good times back then.
Good Video and Great Tips and Congrats on 3k I’m 12 from 2k. The struggle is real Lol
Thank you!! I feel the struggle with ya!! You'll be there in no time!
2003, we converted a 1997 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle.
Cummins 8.3 250/800 mechanical through an Allison 3060.
14,000# across the scale tugging a 12,000# toy-hauler or 8,000# Dodge Cummins 4x4.
.
I stay at 1825, and this gives exactly 180... the numbers on the twin thermostats.
.
We chug up rough logger tracks to remote mountain lakes at barely above idle -- with a significant opportunity to scald -- so I fabricated a steel coolant-recovery tank, and mounted it high behind the cab.
Maybe the new tank and location makes a diff -- I do not know -- but some folks just have to fiddle with stuff.
.
I will send your e-mail a snap.
That's a awesome idea on the email you sent with the coolant reservoir not being in the engine bay!!! Thanks for sharing that!!!
@@WeekendTruckin
This works because the remote tank has two medium-size in-hoses and one full-size suction hose.
Coolant constantly circulates through my remote tank.
My use of 'coolant-recovery' or 'reservoir' was inaccurate.
I hope this helps!
First viewer!!! Love the content can't wait to get on the road.
Also, I was just on the road with my trailer for the last few weeks pulling it with a 17 F350 through the mountains with the outside temp around 90°. Temps hovered around 215 and would come back down when the fan engaged. I would be alarmed at 220 plus if it never came back down to the 190s. The fins your seeing that are bent are the condenser for the AC which could be blocking air flow.
Thank you!!
Good insight on everything! Thanks man!!
If you’re super concerned, have a shop do a flush and fill on your coolant. Personally during the heat of the summer, I don’t get nervous until about 220 on my Ram. With a proper 50/50 mix the boiling point of coolant is 256f.
Most important don’t shut your truck off if the engine temp is over 200. Let it idle until it comes down.
Great insight!! I’ll typically let it run for 15 minutes before turning it off after I’ve been driving and am done!
To open/straighten the condenser fins, a HVAC shop has a fin-comb.
Any radiator shop uses a fin-comb as part of a rod-out.
.
Some operators mount a heavy-gauge 'window-screen' material in front of the radiator package to absorb impacts from big bugs and mid-size flying fish.
.
For moose or kangaroo, I would go with the extra-heavy gauge...
I was actually looking online for a fin comb to see if it would help a little!
You might need a Fin Comb. This will straighten your radiator fins so the air will go through better.
Thank you Jay!! I didn’t know there was such a thing even!! You’re the man!!
Do u have to have a cdl a or b for your setup ?
I do not, but I think that varies from state to state though!
Could a person use a rollback as a towaway, not on the truck itself and be able to put a car on the truck for a backhaul?
I drive an M2 pulling 22'000 pounds every day and on hotter days mine will run up to about 215 then the fan will activate and bring it back down to about 180.
That’s great to know, David! Thanks for sharing!!! I’ve noticed it’ll get back down within the 190s then go back up then back down, etc. etc.
Shawn how are the load boards? Thinkn about getting into it im a pilotcar now and would like some info from a "veteran"! Thanks
Hey George! I wouldn’t say I’m a vet by any means! 😆 but loads for singles seem to be getting back to normal at IT. I have no clue if it will remain like that or if they’ll get backed up on parts again, but the orders from dealerships keep coming in!
Every truck is a little different but I think it is safe to say anything under 225ish is ok. My chevy runs at 210. All your diesel engines are rated for a much higher temp. Due to compressed explosion instead of ignited.
Hey Brian! Thanks for the insight!! I’m definitely feeling a little more at ease after all the comments on the 220 mark and how everyone’s is typically running around 200 in the heat!
Go to the TA and have them clean out your radiator, but yea it looks like you do need a née radiator
my dodge runs 200+ even without pulling. If you have a good rad cap the coolant won't boil until about 220 - 230
Thanks for the reassurance with the coolant temps!
That is not your radiator it is your AC condenser!!! Downshift and make it easier on your motor. Also you are cooking your turbo prob red hot and make sure to run the motor for 10 mins when you stop to not coke up your turbo
Hey Bruce! I wasn’t sure what the little one in the front was but knew it’s part of the cooling system and looks a little beat up. I typically never shut my truck off right away when I stop and never let the rpms get above 1600,1700 when I’m driving down the road!
Driven M2's for 100's of thousands of miles now.
Currently my '16 has 400,000 on it, but I have the complete opposite question:
Is 2,000 RPM's too high for a 240 horse 6.7 Cummins through an Allison 6-spd 2600RDS to a Detroit rear axle @ 5.22?
Truck is rated @ 26,000 pounds and runs that and then some all over Western US.
A hundred thousand miles back I upped the governor to 70. So I run 'er all day every day with cruise control set @ 70 turnin' 1,950 RPM's.
I would submit humbly in my opinion 1,300 - 1,600 RPM's is too low. But 2k might be too high.
Just my two cents. Would love to have a fellers thoughts.
Have a blessed day y'all.
I definitely don't have enough mechanical knowledge to give sound advice on that, but I try to keep it around the 1500 rpm mark and I get better fuel economy.
A mechanic told me I should be shifting around 1800-1900 rpms with it when I first bought it so I just try not to be that high when driving but I have been in the past when I really need to get somewhere. It stopped working on me, but I loved using my code reader for live data and having the "work load" on the screen so I could always see how hard the engine is working. That always made me more aware of when I'd need to break the cruise, etc.
Safe travels out there!!
@@WeekendTruckin For sure. Thank you! I do feel it's a bit high. Work load on screen would be great.
I plan to see how long until this engine needs a rebuild.
Thanks for responding!