OOPS! I Destroyed My Customers Blower! Bizarre Diagnosis with an even Crazier Repair!
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
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Rod stretched… piston may have swelled. Together it caused the problem.
Cheap Chinese metals and poor heat treat
You and your videos have become my favorite site. At 78 yoa, I am still learning. I have an old old chainsaw that wouldn't run anymore. Following your demonstrations and the tool kit you use, I purchased a carburetor kit and....step by step....slooowly replaced each part with new and reassembled same. Drum roll please. IT RUNS!!!! You were/are my inspiration. Thank you, thank you. And it makes my day when I check the RUclips and you have another presentation.
I realize you only covered up the real problem via an extra crush spark plug washer. But since these blowers ran from the start, something has changed with them. Either the piston has metallurgy issues, or the connecting rod stretched. So an extra spark plug washer is only maybe a temporary fix... JMHO
I agree, only a temporary fix..but maybe the only cost effective one...new piston/crank, etc. plus labor probably exceed the cost of a new blower..at least this way, you can get some additional use from the blower...for how long, who knows, but otherwise it is junk. I would explain this to the customer first, though...
It's not going last long!
As thin as the rod is on that unit the rod may be stretching you'll know in a little while if The piston starts hitting the head or the rod breaks.
Great mystery story! With one of the failures showing the piston hitting the compression ring, my bet would be an ill-designed or manufactured connecting rod that stretches with use. If the piston crown was weak, I would expect the outer part to go down rather than up, leaving a bulge over the con rod. If this happened though, the center of the crown should not be higher than it was originally. Would be interesting to measure con rod length in a running blower. And I second the comment about using copper washers. Since this may be just a temporary fix, I would warn customers that the same thing could happen again, possibly with catastrophic failure.
I'm going with they bumped up the compression with a slightly longer rod and/or thinner head gasket to improve power to weight ratio and fuel efficiency/ emissions and somebody missed it and went too deep when machining the spark plug seat where .005" makes a difference. To do that to a plug, if it was the specified plug, it must have been off by .100 or so. Mashed the plug the first time it was cranked over, but didnt completely close the gap and die until high temp and high RPM, likely the first time it went lean from running out of fuel.
HItachi used to have top notch quality control and everything that had that name on it was about as good as you could get in the category, but like everybody else, the consumers will not pay what it costs to make a good one so they too have had to turn over their manufacturing to people who are not as careful and dilligent to get everything just right but do "almost" a lot cheaper. If "almost" is all most people are willing to pay for, we will all get "almost".
Connecting rod stretch would be my guess.
Bulging results from power stroke deforming piston outer edges downward.
I agree, I think the rods are stretching.
@laserflexr6321 Hitachi is now Metabo, supposedly there the same designs and materials. I own a 8 1/4 sliding compound miter saw which they don't make anymore and several of the air guns being Metabo it still calls for oil in line vs Teflon lined cylinder others are going to of course there roofer nail gun is the best nail gun on the market and has been since it's inception.
Was thinking the same thing. At first I thought the piston on the up and down stroke was causing the bulge, but that wouldn’t do it stretching of the rod would
Putting a extra washer on the plug was the first thing i thought about, but even though it worked ,i worry the customer might think it was a jury rigged repair.
But you did the work and found it was the only viable option to keep a cheap blower running. Bravo.
And just one more comment.
I have been a mechanic on all kinds of equipment for 50 years, and the decline of quality on everything made now is terrible.
If the piston keeps on deforming, it will likely occur again.
Extra washer for the bad design was exactly what i was thinking too..just to make do or return it if you can
jury-rigged? Definitely! But it runs and the price is right. The Guaranty is "It will break again".
Question, it worked as shipped then stopped working due to clearance issue? What changed? Thicker head gasket makes sense for a ‘fix’ but issue is a design mistake, rod about 2mm too long?
What about making a spacer ?? Or try a different plug ?
Because the rim of the piston looked like it was hitting the head I would not suspect bulging on the piston, I would lean more towards the connecting rod stretching
I was wondering if the crank is on some sort of polymer instead of a proper bearing and can wear or give over time.
No and no rods do not stretch and it has ball bearings and needle bearings.
@@MUUKOW3rods absolutely do stretch, and sometimes stretch more then expected do to a variety of reasons .
@@jaydunbar7538 Out of the thousands of engines that have rolled through the shop ,gas ,diesel 2 cycle 4cycle small large . At the track I have never seen such a thing.
This is one of your best vids ever and props on good problem solving techniques! Chinese quality control is all over the place, and I can easily believe they have some suspect metallurgy in the piston and/or rod leading to mechanical deformation. One thing to consider is that as rpm climbs (typically above 3500 rpm on a car engine not sure about these smaller types) the tensile load on the rod from piston inertia (reversing the piston weight at the top of the stroke) is actually greater than the compression load from gas combustion. So rods tend to stretch rather than compress.
She said she could feel a slight bulge, I'm more inclined to think the pistons top is being pushed in, causing the bulge that eventually contacts the plug.
After my comment, I saw your explanation and must concur. To prove this is the case, it would be good to compare a new rod to an old one.
Spot on answer....Metallurgy, the Science of, is something the Chinese are still working on. Difficult to translate correctly !
@@williamstuessy1611 No, its that the plant manager has a side deal with the steel provider subbing even cheaper pot metal for a kickback.
I just replaced a plastic fuel tank on a Briggs and Stratton Intek 6hp engine ( The buggers split along the seam after a while don't they!) ." Buy a genuine B and S " tank they said " Not a cheap Chinese knock off, they cost a lot more but they're worth it !" So my £85 genuine B and S tank arrived the other day . What did say on the box? "Made in China". 🤦 😂
you are an amazing story teller and teacher. I love this repair and taking us on the journey you experienced was so much fun!
happened to me before ,guilty of buying Chinese crap, great video
Anyone remember “non-fouler’ plug adapters? A hollow spacer that went between the spark plug and the engine. Had some on my ‘63 Beetle. Think I got ‘em from JC Whitney.
I ran them in cylinders three and four on my 68 chevy truck. They got me several more years of service from the motor before it was retired.
Non-foulers and retread tires are standard equipment and even required
particularly on old cars equipped with manual transmissions that have a
Plan B backup engine starting feature for when there is a dead battery.
Then you put the car in neutral and push by the opened driver door until
it reaches about walking speed and quickly jump in and throw it into low
or second gear, while turning the ignition switch to On and immediately
popping the clutch to turn over the engine and start it. If you could pick
a slope or a hill on which to park before shutting down the engine it was
always a work saver to just let gravity get the car rolling downhill so all
the grunting and groaning to push the car up to speed is avoided. Back
in those days when chromed steel bumpers were on cars, a vehicle with
a dead battery could be "bumper jumped" by jamming the nose of one
car against the other so the bumpers kissed firmly together, and then
a jump could be done using two tire irons like scissors to span the
positive poles of the two batteries and complete the circuit. Jumper
cables were a luxury not always around, and everybody knew about
the "bumper jump" alternative when cars had chrome steel bumpers
and glass headlights. Thanks for the memories of simpler times.
I actually have that exact Hitachi blower that did the exact thing!
I did what you showed with the additional spark plug crush washer, and it lit right up!!
Thank you for sharing!!!!
While one engine is apart, I would get a new replacement rod to compare the length between the affected engine and a new part to verify if the rods are stretching or not. As an alternative, see if someone has a new one or one that hasn't hit the plug yet, and measure the piston depth in the cylinders at TDC to see if they are different.
It looked a bit twisted to me.
The dome piston has two be the problem, why, is the fuel burning in side the block??
I’m thinking defective piston
If you buy a new piston then most likely it is the same batch
I need a piston but I’m going to wait for a year because they gave it to me 😮
That was simply BRILLIANT! I always love simple fixes for complicated problems.
So the questions remain...what caused this and will it happen again?
The wrong plug. Correct plug is a bm6a. Not a bpmr6a. One has an electrode that protrudes. The other doesn’t and is the correct plug.
@@smokinrider
Still doesn't explain the original problem, unless the owner swapped plugs before bringing it to her. Possible, but I doubt it.
@@smokinrider Wrong plug on ALL 3 of these blowers? And ALL 3 owners said they stopped while running? What are the odds?
The rod has stretched. Take it out and measure it with a good caliper. You will find that the rod has stretched over time.
Piston bulge caused contact with plug I bet if someone could check one that is running fine with digital calipers to measure the clearance from the bottom of plug to the top travel of piston the riddle could be confirmed that it dont take much for it to go kaboom if it gets little overheated worked a little harder or ran on store bought premixed like she taught us few videos back they play with the mix to make them run real good seem like more power so you want more of it but in reality they fall apart at higher temp its design engineering meets minimal metal requirements to maximize profits a staple of Chinese ingenuity I even heard a friend in the know once told me the highest quality Chinese parts are sold only inside china and lower quality sold overseas but that's another story. This lady got small engine repairs in the top shelf she is killing it.
I’m not certain what Champion plug was used that hit the piston, but when I look up the plug for the Hitachi rb24eap blower, the factory Champion CJ6 they use has a shorter electrode that sticks out about 1/8” less than the one showing in the video. It’s hard to say, but that’s just my guess as I couldn’t see the plug in the video very closely.
I LOVE it when you have these off the wall problems and share with us. I am in the middle of a rebuild on a kohler twin and play your videos in my shop while working.
Just curious, are you going to put over size pistons in as well?
I am planning on doing a rebuild on a Kohler V twin as well. For about $500 I can get a complete rebuild kit with over size pistons, and rings. The cost to bore the cylinders isn't cheap, but then a new engine isn't either.
@@bertgrau3934 I was lucky. Everything was in specs. Just a thrown rod.
@@DoingItCheap
Good. The one given to me is locked up, my guess is the rods, but maybe new pistons. A new rod wouldn't be bad. Glad you didn't have a lot of other problems. Good luck with the rest of the build.
Your expression and excitement is priceless! Thanks for sharing. Always enjoy watching.
Holy moly!!! Way to go Bre, I love the way you figure out stuff. Keep doing what you do, great fix!!!
Hmm, so my outboard uses a surface fire design.. Would that work in this application as well? There would be more clearance since there isn't a gap to gap. IDK, I'm merely a novice at engine repairs, just tossing out ideas.
😊.
Love the channel. Keep up the good work.
I think it would be good to follow the use of this blower because is it possible for the piston deformation to continue? If so, after some more use it may happen again.
I have one at shop with same problem, I going to wait till she figures it out, was going to buy a brand new and remove piston to compare it, but customer gave the bad one to me so I’m waiting for a while
Get some copper washers, they work as seals, use them as spacers.
To save you time: Since you're going to need a lot of those washers: Pull the washer up to the threads and with a little force it will unscrew. Great video!
Yes! exactly, that's what I do...and I would save a few washers for that off old spark plugs...no need robbing one off a new plug, especially as expensive as they are getting these days..NGK and Bosch are not cheap...Chinese ones are not dirt cheap anymore, for that matter...BTW, I have seen some of the Bosch ones stamped Made In China..insane...
@@dyer2cycle You've seen a Chinese plug with stolen Bosch stamp, not a Bosch made in China.....we hope :);
Nope, sadly...original equipment found in Stihl trimmers...@@einfelder8262
Rod maybe stretching depending on the material it's made of?
If the piston is bulging or the connecting rod is stretching this blower is on borrowed time. It would be interesting to see the ultimate failure mode if one after spark plug washer shimming. Keep us posted. Keep up the the interesting videos! Love watching!
One additional thought the piston may be cast with a steel ring in bed in the ring land area to control heat expansion if the piston can not expand outward it will expand inward budging the piston dome?
Sounds like a feature to me :) Automatic compression adjuster piston! Negates ring wear by automatically increasing compression ratio over time! 😆
"It's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature..."
Maybe just fit a plug without the projected electrode? NGK BMR7A should do it?
When you removed that washer from the spark plug, the spark plug would go deeper into the cylinder and closer to the piston, right?
She put 2 washers on the plug
She took the original washer off and added it as a 2nd washer on a new plug. That moves the plug tip further away from the piston.
I’m thinking she added a washer from the old plug, so the new plug has two, creating slightly more space. I too wonder how long before the piston distorts more and there’s another failure. But this was great information and a clever fix!
Watch again at 10:36, but listen closely.
Yes I added an old washer to new plug for more clearance.
You can destroy my blower anytime 💖 😂 Although, I run Echo and Redmax, not stuff from Lowe's.
Need to figure out what’s going on but in the meantime how about using a shorter reach plug in the same heat range??
I had a 1974 Yamaha YZ-80-A 7s cc's 5.5 HP.. I put a GYT cylinder piston .. 24 mm carb instead of a 16 mm carb.. and en expansion chamber pipe .. With some port work I tripled my Horse Power..
I could buy a Champion Plug at the Local Auto Parts store for 75 cents.. but it did not run that great on Champions.. I had to pay $1.25 for the good copper core NGK plugs.. which ran much better.
One time I bought a new NGK Plug installed it and kick started the bike .. Revved it up a little and the bike took off going backwards. It about threw me over the handle bars..
I shut the bile off and kick started it again .. Some times it would go forwards and some times it would go backswords.
Going forward it would spit and sputter some and did not run that Great.
Stupid me took the plug back to the dealer and got it replaced for a plug that ran Normal..
I should have kept that plug for Gag Purposes..
Fast forward 40 years later and I have a skidoo snowmobile 800 CC twin cylinder Two Stroke . Press a button on the handlebars and the engine stops and restarts backwards so you have a reverse on the sled with no mechanical gears.
Got mine for $50, left over display model at Lowes. One of my favorite tools. Bad fuel lines are a common problem, had to replace mine within the first month. My anxiety went through the roof watching this video, didn't think you were going to tear one apart.
Same here, though the fuel line lasted 2-3 years. Went with the name brand fuel line this time.
The thing is with China made stuff is it all gets "Tarred with the same brush" as we say in The UK = people tend to think it's all the same quality (Or indeed lack of it) . This is certainly not true. I grant you some of it is trash but definitely not all. I know guys over here that have re-powered equipment when the old Honda ( and Honda stuff definitely ain't what it used to be) engine has given up and replaced them with Chinese Honda clones e.g. Loncin and guess what? They work the balls off them and they just keep on going. 😮Conversely, in the past I've had McColluch stuff built in the good ol' USA that's been utter junk 🤷
I’m pretty sure this video probably saved a lot of people time,money and frustration. good job 👍
Bre😮💨 WTF? how did it happen? credit for the fix but really what caused problem?
Well, stacking another washer on the plug worked on the orange blower, but what about the green one? The evidence that the piston is hitting the top of the combustion chamber would be a bigger problem. Can't imagine what would cause a piston to bulge up like that. It would be interesting compare a new piston to the damaged one to find out wtf.
There are plugs with almost no extended reach, and also surface gap plugs. I have used them both. And EVERY
Hitachi that comes in to the shop is a NO-FIX. Except for the ones with the recoil that is shot or needs a rope. How do you like putting a rope in that chinese puzzle of a recoil? WE got 2 dead ones at the shop. Sometimes they save us the trouble of checkout by bringing a pile of parts and just leaving it there......
Interesting problem. I wonder if the extra washer will be a permanent repair. If the piston us actually failing and bulging upward it may continue to do so until it hits again or complete failure. It may also be that the connecting rod is too soft and has stretched under high RPM use. If that's the case it will likely continue to stretch until the problem reemerges.
When looking into the top of the cylinder it appeared to have shiny spots around the circumference where the piston was hitting which may be a clue that the connecting rod is stretching allowing the entire piston to reach the top of the cylinder.
Hopefully you will report back on the long term outcome.
Must admit this is a little goofy. Piston budge ? Why would they make the tolerance so close in the first place ?
Happens the opposite way on a Top Fuel Dragster. So powerful it DIMPLES the piston.
Is it possible that the base gasket as well might have compressed more than its supposed to so you've got two things going on the Piston bulging and the base gasket flattening out
Hitachi owns Tanaka Hitachi is Japanese, i wouldn't exactly say from China as that would insinuate it's a Chinese brand.
Absolutely fantastic job didn't think it was going to give it enough space. Especially when the pistons already hitting a cylinder. I was thinking about rigging up like a head gasket to get some space in there
Well, there is no head gasket on this engine but there is a gasket where the cylinder bolts to the crankcase. You know it could be overrevving and causing this problem. You know in past videos she has shown that you can overrev these two cycle engines.
Unfortunately the same exact problem is it's made in China!
My brain is screaming at you right now because, if the piston is bulging, what is to keep it from continuing to bulge and ultimately fail in a few uses? You may have come up with a work around temporarily but is it permanent? I guess we shall see.
Most of these $179 blowers are 6-8 years old. It took that long for it to get in this state. I figure if it can limp through a little longer, they got their moneys worth out of it. It also might last forever. Who knows?
Typical Chinese quality, and yet the world is still content to keep buying their junk.
Rod stretched...
I believe it's got to be a poorly designed or manufactured or a combination of both in the piston which is allowing thermal expansion to bulgle the piston upward. Combustion forces downward are the lagrest forces in the engine and are going to be much larger than any crankcase pressures I would believe. Even if the engine had bad rings that allowed massive blowby I would believe crank seals would fail before it caused the piston to bulge upward. Also if the rings were that bad to allow enough blowby to pressurize the crankcase enough, the engine should run very poorly if you could get it started at all. So I have to believe it's either the piston design and/or the metallurgy of the piston that are causing the piston expansion to force the top to bulge. One last thing, while hitting the top of the piston against the spark plug definitely is not desirable, you didn't knock a hole in it. Yeah you left a slight mark but I've seen worse marks on pistons, with the engine running fine afterward and held up for a long time.
Not sure if anyone noticed but at about 9:30 in the video when you were looking at the underside of the piston and connecting rod it appeared (could just be the camera), that both the piston and connecting rod had been subjected to extreme heat almost to the point of seeing temper bands. That could explain the piston's change shape resulting in damaged plugs. I'm curious what would happen if you tried a "surface gap" plug? I'm just an amateur mechanical sleuth who is not sure the problem isn't still there even if the symptoms have been relieved.
Your thoughts.....................
Im going to vote for rod streach. Especially with the scratches something ran down between the piston and cylinder wall when hot and stretched it from the tension
I cant get my head around the rod stretching, can it get hot, expand and not shrink? The domed piston crown could be a clue to the cause.
Where I live, we have another name instead of jury rigging. It's called afro engineering.
Awesome troubleshooting video, nothing like an experienced mechanic to solve a problem. By the way I write large aircraft maintenance procedures for one of the big aircraft manufacturers. Great job.
Any time you have put a few gaskets together?
Him: "If complaint of something rattling in cockpit, remove something." :)
If they use a 2 piece crank it my have twisted. I used to work for McCulloch and have seen some amazing things when we would test them.
Nice. I bought my first Hitachi in 2011 and it's been good. I bought a carb rebuild kit in 2020 and made it like new. It was in 2020 I read they were no longer going to be available so I purchased another one. So far that's been trouble free, but if the pull cord ever locks, I'll know what to look for.
Until now I have not heard of a piston in an engine bulging up to smash the spark plug. The manufacturer needs to make a better piston. Awesome video.
I love your candor and honesty. count the treads on the old plug and on the new plug. I was a machinist, and .015/.020 or +/- can hide very easily. Remember we live in a world with engineers with little practical experience. I spent A LOT of time fixing designs that only work on paper.
@@davegeorgia8489 I have spent way too much time arguing with and teaching degreed engineers the basics. Astonishing that some of them had a peice of paper saying they were engineers and worth more to the company than I was. In fact if I look back at the past 25 years, direct dealing with engineers who's designs I had to make in to real parts, I would say less than 10% of them would ever actually be a decent engineer. Only 1 in that time that really knew what they were doing and could turn out a design that worked well without 10 try and miss attempts. And he wasnt there long cause they could get someone else 15% cheaper.
It is really disheartening to know within seconds of looking at CAD that it aint gonna work but you have to spend hours making it anyway cause some believe that peice of paper knows more than a person who has been making stuff for 30 years. You tell them right up front what is wrong, and what would work, but few of them will listen cause their hands arent dirty.
@@davegeorgia8489as an engineer, I can tell you: if an engineer needs a technician to show/teach them, then those are not good engineers!
@@davegeorgia8489 what I was referring to is exactly what you mentioned in your last message. An engineer needs to take all these things in account (unless it is something uncommon). I sometimes see this, with people which are engineers just by name and for example look over the design and say “it should work”, although when I check the design I quickly realize it won’t due to various reasons. I hate it when it happens as a correction needs to be done, which is often time and budged consuming, not to forget someone needs to spend the time doing the correction.
I MASSIVELY AGREE@@diavalus
The metal used is of an inferior quality. And when people run these small engines, they don't warm them so they get a rapid expansion and distort. No charge.
Great diagnostic work, where would folks find these compression washers for use on their own engines? Are they sold separately or does another spark plug have to give it up? I use the battery operated blower & weedwhacker theses days, but for decades I used the 2-cycle models. But when quality began to diminish in the small engine products I made the switch.
I would look at a copper washer to do this. They are sold individually in a variety of sizes for metal to metal seals.
Racers use what is called "spark plug indexing washers"
@@kennethpruitt8534 I forgot all about that technique. Thanks. Been 30 years since I've done that on a personal engine. If I recall, they come in different thicknesses and look like a crush washer but don't compress.
When you first gave the description and said "metal to metal".... I cringed at the IDENTICAL TIME you did in the video. Gave me a good laugh because I related to your reaction perfectly in time. As to your solution, I would have thought about that before tearing it down. Some of us not in the business are pretty savvy and I'm sure there were others as well. But I am very happy you actually proved the concept without doubt. Thank you! EDIT: After reading comments below I agree with those who suggested the rod had stretched over time/use. That has to do with quality of materials....metals/alloys. But your "fix" is the most practical and cheap and I would actually try adding a second "booster" washer on the plug for "wiggle room". If the plug holds and combustion is still good.....you have a winner every time! Thanks again!
Would be interesting to double/triple up the head gasket and see if that was enough. At least then the customer wouldn't have to do the double washer in the future which may have other issues with spark plug threads over time. The extra head gaskets may change port timing a bit but they were probably off anyway. Also would be worth putting a set of calipers on the original plug and comparing the tip length to the replacement and see if there was a difference.
There is no head gasket. Barrel and head is all in one.
@@smokinriderThe head gasket being the cylinder gasket to the crankcase.
@@TheKrayusKorianis At first I thought the same thing, but then realized it may lower compression too far. Then I realized that given the bulging, the compression would be bumped back up. All considered, this seems like a circular problem where the compression goes higher from bulging, creates more heat, causes more bulging, etc. A thicker gasket would likely prolong the life of the blower.
Chinese-ism has gotten so bad we now need double washers on our spark plugs. Oh wow we need to start manufacturing in America again so damn bad!
Before you disassembled the Hitachi, I was expecting, we’d find a composite connecting rod! 😂 And, looking at the Tanaka, that thing had almost no hours on it, the plastic opening around the muffler was free of carbon residue. Taking a wild guess, I wonder if those pistons are made of such light gauge material that they are in fact, expanding and bulging upward a several thousands?. Overall the little engine looks to be decent design for being a lower cost machine. Regardless, makes me happy I own slightly older Stihl and Echo pro equipment. Great video Bri I enjoyed watching with my coffee this morning. ❤️ from Chicago.
Is it possible that the piston rod might have slightly stretched thus causing the piston to move higher in the cylinder? This would result in hitting the spark plug, the top of the cylinder, and if hitting it hard enough, deform the piston head in this way.
Check the piston rod for stretch.
You are the woman of my dreams. Absolutely love your content and I hope you have a beautiful day sweetheart
Perhaps they started using a thinner base gasket than what was originally specified, or a base gasket with too much crush.... Perhaps using a layer of Permatex gasket on both sides of the existing gasket would gain enough clearance.
I have the same Hitachi blower, when i decided to change the spark plug i got what was supposed to be the right one at Lowes and had the same issue with the replacement, i put the oem plug back in and the problem went away. It's still running on the oem plug.
Armchair mechanic here. Heck, I’ve worked on at least 3 blowers so I do consider myself a bit of an expert. It’s quite obvious and I’m surprised nobody else caught it. The whatchamacallit was way too far to the left. So far that it was interfering with the doohickey. This caused the thingamajig to overheat and pushed the piston into reverse. This can all be fixed with a couple of solid blows from a left handed 8 lb sledge hammer 😜
Luv your channel.
Odds are the connecting rods are too soft, and have a tendency to stretch. Or just to thin. It appears by what we see from the one piston, is that it initially starts making contact with the head, and then eventually the spark plug. The doming coming from the lengthened connecting rod pushing up the center .
Get replacement spec connecting rods, find out tolerances, and compare.. see what you get.
I have actually done the EXACT SAME THING! AND also have used copper washers in addition to a spark plug squish washer ( to give it the seal needed) to fix things in the past...GREAT FIND Chickanic!
As usual the answer is made in China, I have never had any luck with Chinese products. But at the same time fantastic methodology working out the work around.
Put a cj8 plug in it. Many tanaka / hitachi machines run cj8 plugs due to this issue. hitachi took over tanaka years ago and any hitachi machine you see is made from the entire tanaka specs. hope that helps.
Pistons are too thin I guess and warp up from heat? Cheap pistons from china? Easy fix though. You are just pretty bright.
One of your craziest videos thank you for sharing❤
Rod getting to long maybe ??
I would go buy a new one and use dial to check length of travel and look at top of piston 😊
Cheap made parts. Replace piston and it will probably do it again later down the road.
We had that problem on some Hitachi trimmers here in Sweden, and we simply change the plug, instead of a Ngk BPMR7A we used a BM6A which has a shorter tip..! Works great.
Actually I never seen a green Hitachi 2-stroke machine before, here they were orange and only the batterymachines were green.
An easier way to remove the washer from a spark plug is to unscrew it by tipping up one side of the washer and starting it on the threads and unscrew it. Might have to griip the outside of the washer at first to turn it.
manufacturer used wrong plug and number from assembly, and listed wrong in manual. use a shorter reach plug with the same heat range, so then you can list here the correct one to use for these units. interesting video
Cheap manufacturing. Excellent fix for the problem.
Makes me wonder if the owners had changed the plugs prior to sending it to you, and if the original plugs had that washer on them.
Connecting rod is stretched , nothing else would cause this ..
Hello have you thought about trying a surface gap plug?
do this till it does it again then get rid of ; works for me. i have had repairs like this last for years; go figure.
"OOPS! I Destroyed My Customers Wife! Bizarre Diagnosis with an even Crazier Repair! 😂😂😂
It seems to me the piston did that because the metal the Chinese used to make it is a bit too soft and weak. I bet If they would have had a properly made Japanese piston in that Tanaka the problem would not have occured in the first place
Brilliant girl
I wonder if you can buy spark plug washers in bulk.🤣
The easy solution was traying a short spark plug !! 😂😂
The cylinder perimeter, away from the central spark plug, shows impact with the piston rim.
This indicates a wrist pin, rod bearing, or crankshaft bearing failure.
While washering the plug for clearance may allow it to run, the piston is STILL hitting the head mushrooming the piston rim.
I would consider putting a 0.004" copper wire gasket between the case and the cylinder. Compression may suffer slightly but it should provide enough clearance for both the plug and the head.
Very easy to measure the squish and then determine exactly how thick a copper base gasket will be needed to fix the issue.
All right! That's a Red Neck Repair, if I've ever seen one! Goofy repair, and works like a charm!
A temporary fix, but it works.
Almost a zero-clearance piston. Make you wonder how that got past the design phase.
My guess is whatever caused the score marks on the piston got on top and blocked the last tiny bit of piston travel but not enough to cause catastrophic damage, just the bulge. I’d look at the intake track and carburetor for missing hardware.
Im impressed. You're pretty good.
----------------------- inferior metals in casting process......machine heats up ....internals partially lose their molecular structure.....start to warp , tolerances are gone.....thanks4sharing
I would say manufacturer got their bins of heads or pistons messed up and put the wrong one on that crankcase. Probably same manufacturer makes both of those.
And to solve the problem properly.....DON'T BUY IN THE FIRST PLACE.
Wannabe Hemi. Only explanation........
You're AMAZING my lady. Great find. I love watching your videos. So glad Ron's hip replacement went well.
I would think that if the top of the piston was weak - it would sink instead of raising because of the pressure on top of the piston - LOL - strange things happen.
Looks like a copper washer under the plug is a way to go ... still is the piston crown going to bow still more... great repair Bre