I'm not planning on renovating a 200 year old house, nor am adding panels, but for some reason I enjoy these videos so much! Looking forward to the grounding part.
Does the stranded aluminum "relax" and loosen the connections? Do you retighten the connections after a few hours or just tighten once to manufacturer's specifications? What has been your experience for what works best?
Have done hundreds of 100 & 200 amp services and never saw a meter can attached to a piece of unpainted plywood on what appears a common everyday red brick wall. Would have just use 1/4" lead anchors & no plywood. Nice wire stripper. Had a dedicated steel brush to get aluminium conductors clean and no ox compound down into strands. Keep the brush in a heavy plastic bag to keep it clean. Did not see you use the NEC required torque driver to make sure terminals are tightened to specified torque. Not required but always taped the bare conductor with white tape. No such thing called a neutral in the NEC. Aholes changed name to grounded conductor.
Oh no, that whole house is going plywood. All that brick, the so called insulation back in the day is being removed. Not to mention there will house wrap behind the pan before the meter is hot. Yeah grounding conductor, yeah I know lol
my local inspector won't approve my new 200 amp panel as it does not have proper clearance all around it. The old panel was grandfathered but for a new install he's making me move the whole panel several feet away, which means I have to replace tons of wiring for water heater, dryer, and range. Other things I can use a junction box and extensions but not the 220v appliances.
@@DominickAmorosso NEC code says there must be 36" open space both left and right of the panel, as well as in front. Wide open spaces for access. I have a furnace duct right in in front of the panel. Lucky to be able to open the door, which is maybe 12"? I cannot stand up in front of my panel.
@@patrickbrumm420 No it doesn't. It states 30"-36" Meaning all on one side 36" or 12" on one side and 24" on the other. Like setbacks on a building a house. 36" in front yes. Send me an email and I'll send you what I have.
Why isn't your neutral wire insulated? It's a current carrying conductor? Shouldn't you have used 3 insulated conductors and used the bare stranded one as your equipment grounding conductor. You said it yourself. The neutral is the return path back to the source. Ad a current carrying conductor it should be insulated. Coming from the utility pole to your meter you can use that stranded wire as the service drop cable will only have 2 insulated wires and the bars stranded. At the meter base, whether with or without a main breaker, the bare neutral from the pole will be bonded to the enclosure as well as the insulated neutral from the panel and and the bare stranded from the panel. At the panel the neutral terminal strip will be separated from the grounding terminal strip by removing the jumper that connects the two together. By using this method I described you do not have parallel paths for the return path for the return current carrying conductor, (neutral).
I'm not planning on renovating a 200 year old house, nor am adding panels, but for some reason I enjoy these videos so much! Looking forward to the grounding part.
Now that's what I wanted to hear. Thank you so much. Yeah I was going to do that video today but I forgot an important tool at home. But soon.
@@Askmediy tool for ground rods? I used a big rock
Yo Dominick, from one RUclipsr to another, how about posting a link to Part 1 in the description. 👍 Your the man with the plan!
Should you do the loop circle then pull down to fit the lug...❓❓❓
Does the stranded aluminum "relax" and loosen the connections? Do you retighten the connections after a few hours or just tighten once to manufacturer's specifications?
What has been your experience for what works best?
Tighten and forget. I never go back. But I pay attention the first time to make sure they are good and tight.
Have done hundreds of 100 & 200 amp services and never saw a meter can attached to a piece of unpainted plywood on what appears a common everyday red brick wall. Would have just use 1/4" lead anchors & no plywood. Nice wire stripper. Had a dedicated steel brush to get aluminium conductors clean and no ox compound down into strands. Keep the brush in a heavy plastic bag to keep it clean. Did not see you use the NEC required torque driver to make sure terminals are tightened to specified torque. Not required but always taped the bare conductor with white tape. No such thing called a neutral in the NEC. Aholes changed name to grounded conductor.
Oh no, that whole house is going plywood. All that brick, the so called insulation back in the day is being removed. Not to mention there will house wrap behind the pan before the meter is hot. Yeah grounding conductor, yeah I know lol
New subscriber here. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
my local inspector won't approve my new 200 amp panel as it does not have proper clearance all around it. The old panel was grandfathered but for a new install he's making me move the whole panel several feet away, which means I have to replace tons of wiring for water heater, dryer, and range. Other things I can use a junction box and extensions but not the 220v appliances.
How far is the edge of the panel to each wall. Left and right?
@@DominickAmorosso NEC code says there must be 36" open space both left and right of the panel, as well as in front. Wide open spaces for access. I have a furnace duct right in in front of the panel. Lucky to be able to open the door, which is maybe 12"? I cannot stand up in front of my panel.
@@patrickbrumm420 No it doesn't. It states 30"-36" Meaning all on one side 36" or 12" on one side and 24" on the other. Like setbacks on a building a house. 36" in front yes. Send me an email and I'll send you what I have.
You make it look easier then it is in the real world, how far from the meter to the panel?
Only seems hard. The wire was 8 feet. With lots of bends and turns.
I felt 220 volts on my outdoor AC compressor capacitor. I will not do that again
Oh no, yeah not nice
ouch! That'll wake your butt up.
Why isn't your neutral wire insulated? It's a current carrying conductor? Shouldn't you have used 3 insulated conductors and used the bare stranded one as your equipment grounding conductor. You said it yourself. The neutral is the return path back to the source. Ad a current carrying conductor it should be insulated. Coming from the utility pole to your meter you can use that stranded wire as the service drop cable will only have 2 insulated wires and the bars stranded. At the meter base, whether with or without a main breaker, the bare neutral from the pole will be bonded to the enclosure as well as the insulated neutral from the panel and and the bare stranded from the panel. At the panel the neutral terminal strip will be separated from the grounding terminal strip by removing the jumper that connects the two together. By using this method I described you do not have parallel paths for the return path for the return current carrying conductor, (neutral).
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