Ground and neutral work the same way. They are used to complete the circuit by providing a returning path to source. The ground is the emergency path to return to source. It's normally not carrying electricity so it allows the return to happen so fast that it can create a strong enough magnetic field to trip the breaker. When you bond the ground and neutral before the first disconnect or main breaker, you'll never create a strong enough magnetic field to trip it.
So quick question boss. A lot of new installs are asking for this type of disconnect.When you do this do we take off the bonding bar between neutral and ground in the main since it’s not the first means of disconnect anymore ?
Not the reason you're not allowed to bond in multiple locations. Bonding downstream of first disconnecting means creates objectionable current Flow on the ground wire
Man, your explanation of the ground/common bonding at the disconnect vs load center was exactly what I was hunting for. Thank you so much. This video is gold for a residential setup.
This is the kind of content that really gives me hope for a future workforce that has both technical skills and a positive and professional understanding of the complexities of interaction with regulators and customers. Kids who might not sign up for classes in the trades can see a great deal here that would attract them to take that next step to move into a good trade. Thanks for some great content.
I got a free estimate to move my meter from the basement to outside and install a main disconnect outside with it. It was going to cost much more than I was expecting. I ended up doing the project myself, and it was a fabulous experience learning how to do this kind of stuff properly beyond just outlets, lights, and switches. And yes at a fraction of the cost
I am as well. @@eddyparker10 I think you'd find great value in reading 'Wiring Simplified'. That book in combination with the power company's specs and a lot of RUclips videos has given me the confidence to tackle the upgrade by myself. I'm probably going to start next week with the actually installation. Good luck!
You said that 'the free thing can become devalued'. You're half right. There have been studies done that prove that people place absolutely NO value on free things. Thank you for taking the time to produce these videos.
I was so happy to hear you say "next time buy a Fluke." While Kleins DMM may be good enough, the serviceability of Fluke DMMs is second to none! TSA would regularly break the screen on my Flukes but I could buy a replacement straight from Fluke for like $12. Pop off the outer case and pop in the new screen in 5 minutes.
Enjoying your videos. Recently retired Indianapolis Master's Electrical Engineer (not a licensed electrician) that has also had my Indy General Contactor license (15 years ago), a remodeling business and have been doing Electrical wiring for 40+ years but never pulled a meter nor replaced a main panel. I have run a subpage for hvac. I'm passionate about learning and get great fulfillment in doing things professionally myself. Now that I'm retired I have spent 40 hours last few weeks reviewing NEC 2020 and 2008 for Indy; Indy Electrical codes and permitting. Been evaluating Electrical equipment reviews, pricing equipment etc. Spent a lot of time watching Mike Holt training videos before I came across you. After reviewing all that I could find it came down to Siemens and Square D QO series panels. I like the 60 position QO Square D panel best. I like the idea of adding this disconnect to give me more flexibility when I add a 24KV Generac. I'll happily pay your fee to discuss my project and get your advice. My first preference would be to hire a Master Electrician that would let me participate in the panel change out project. But I am also open to a fair bid. I'll reach out to you to see if we can meet for a fee, no freebie. I have done my homework and prepared a scope of work. This is a 1998 4000 Sq ft home on Indy NE side with 35 breakers with many doubled up. Our new home is our forever home and I want to junk the Thomas Butts panel and upgrade to QO Square D while adding a basement QO subpanel for my basement shop. Later this year I plan to add a 24KV Generac. Hope you are interested in discussing my project. I love your videos and that you have local Indianapolis experience with AES/IPL. Tom T in The Moorings 96th & Mud Creek 46256
If it's a commercial site I would use a QO panel. For a residential I would use a Square D Homeline with the plug on neutral. You will save some money and I never seen a problem with a Homeline panel. Square D panels also has the convenient plug in surge breaker. Install it in the 1st position next to the main breaker. Then I would use all GFCI/AFCI combo breakers on every circuit that will have an outlet.
Second on using the Homeline instead of the QO. The breakers are slightly wider but the connections are better. That’s if you are set on a Square D panel. Leviton makes a very nice panel now where the wires are permanently landed on a bar and breakers can be snapped in and out without having the undo wires. And can be upgraded to a smart panel easily.
I love the lock box idea for inspectors . I have spent an unbelievable amount of time this week just sitting around waiting for Baltimore city inspectors!
I’m doing this in my home now. I’m installing a non fused 200amp safety switch in between my meter and ATS for my generator. Are the neutrals and grounds shared here since it is the first means of disconnect?
This is a favorite RUclips channel of mine. Thank you for taking the time to produce quality videos, good work practice, and good business tips. Thank you.
The most important thing you said was "Take care of the Next Guy!" I am a retired commercial electrician in Florida and I have seen too much work that in my mind did not come close to being done in a workmanship like manner! Thanks!
I love your videos. I work from home and I put your video up on the big screen and let them play while I work. I was an electrician as a young man so I live vicariously through your work.
Good video. But I"m trying to figure out, why didn't you land the EGC from the outside main disconnect box onto the new grounding bar that you added to the interior panel. If you left it connected to the neutral busbar on the left side, wouldn't that be a ground fault?
I don't know how you put up with all the complaining, ungrateful comments! I think you did a great job and it seems that people will always find something to complain about. Thanks for your excellent video!
The round plastic meter cover on my panel is very oxidized and I can no longer read the numbers on the meter. Is that something that requires the replacement of the whole meter or can just the cover be replaced?
33:40 Since you mentioned it earlier, why is some wire exposed on the lower left meter connection after you mentioned it shouldn't be on the connection in the lower box? Different rules for meter and disconnect boxes?
If i am installing a manual 200 amp double throw swich in the place of your application it does not a a breaker so would it still be the only place i bond my neutral and ground
some of the best practical advice I've seen, it's the little things like" best practice" techiques (like always have a tube of goo) that make a job move smoothly .
Great video. Question. On the inside panel, after separating the grounds from neutrals, do you need to move the large ground connector / external earth ground to the newly installed ground bar? Leaving it bounded to the cabinet requires the individual grounds to bond through the cabinet before getting to the earth ground. Thank you.
I worked with a lineman upgrading a house to 200 amp service. He used normal garden loppers to cut the cables. worked like a charm and a lot cheaper than ratcheting cutters.
@@ElectricProAcademy I use a pair of Southwire loppers I got from Menards. Chops up to 4/0 aluminum or 3/0 copper with ease. Not very big either, just the one handed version. I would advise against using a sawzall, risk of kickback if gets snagged on the wire, and just more mess , metal shavings etc.
Apprentice here, so I'm in no position to question a Master. Can one of the Masters or Journeymen reading this comment and correct me if I am wrong? With that said, I don't think he bonded his neutral to ground. They were bonded inside the house at the original panel. But since the inside panel box is now a subpanel, he un-bonded the neutral from the ground. However, I did not see him bond the neutral to the ground in the new box outside. Wasn't he supposed to run a bonding jumper from his neutral lug in the new disconnect box outside (the lug with the green screw 24:06) inside and land it on the ground bus inside so as to bond the grounds to the neutral at the first point after the first disconnect? OR Was he supposed to run the jumper from the ground lug to the neutral lug inside of the new disconnect box outside?
Your explanations are first class as well as completeness of the job. When I had my solar array installed the electrician was not present when inspector showed up. End result was a red flag that the solar company wanted me to pay for. Needless to say never used them again and they shortly went out of business.
Great video. Thanks. I watched the complete video. I missed something. I did understand the bonding at the first disconnect and disconnecting it at the sub panel which used to be the main panel. My question is where is the ground rod to earth?
I use that same belt. 50 bucks for the pouch 30 bucks for the belt. Ad a few decent pouches and you're golden. People are buying that diamond back pouch for like 150 bucks and it's not even set up right lol. Good deal. Thanks for the video
When you removed the ground conductors that were previously tightened,torqued, down, you should clip the ends. The indents on the copper are work hardened and the first place where micro cracks start. Reinserting and retightening on these spots leads to larger cracks and can cause total failure the next time those wires are moved, for appearance, maintenance or add-ons.
27:45 - am I just imagining it, or did you put this wire with a red stripe (indicating phase B, right?) on the opposite side as it was on below (ref 26:43)? Is that a potential problem?? (I mean, obviously the electricity doesn't care, but are there reasons it could come back to bite someone down the road? I'm not immediately thinking of any that aren't utterly contrived, but... I'm not an electrician, just interested, so... asking!)
If you can't put your grounding electrode conductor in the meter, what do you do if you have multiple service equipment? Do you just run the GEC to the first panel and run a supply-side bonding conductor between the two service disconnects?
Thanks for the video. So I understand that the ground in the new first disconnect you installed is an earth ground and an equipment ground via the subpanel, and that the neutral and ground in the disconnect are coupled via the green ground screw at the neutral. As to the subpanel, neutral and ground are no longer bonded, and the earth ground and equipment ground are coupled together and fed via the single ground to the new first disconnect. This arrangement appears to be not in strict compliance with the code because the earthand equipment ground are coupled in the subpanel. Am I missing something?
although i just recently i started watching your videos, one things is for sure, the content is very good and also it has helped me to understand some stuff that i was in doubt THANK YOU ....
@@ElectricProAcademy You could do both, a lot of popular channels here like Rainman Ray's, South Main Auto etc, have both really short videos and long in depth ones whenever the subject or topic requires it. Keeps everyone happy. Most of the time. :) Can't please everyone all of the time, but it's easier to piss off most of the people most of the time... LOL
Do you have to use ser cable to supply a branch or feeder? Or can you use seu in a raceway with a separate egc? Or even individual 4/0 conductors with a copper egc?
Great video. I am in complete agreement on the value of the paid estimate. Nothing more valuable than your time and experience. Not an electrician but I work for myself and am in the service industry. I usually request for a consultation fee that is credited to the project if they use me for the project. Question: why did you/he install a new ground terminal strip for the ground?; Transferring the existing ground over to it.
Torquing is different than the Torx standard for bits (6-pointed star type). Torquing your connections requires a dedicated tool which clicks at a user-selected value. For main and major lugs we use this wrench: amzn.to/3LUCC4C, for device and smaller terminals we use this screwdriver: amzn.to/3PLsZ9L
does an ac disconnect consider a main panel if installed before this main service panel? my ac disconnect doesn't have any breaker it's a manual switch for disconnecting the meter from the main service manually it has 2 200amp fuse inside. so my question is if do i need a ground neutral bond in ac-disconnect switch and isolated the ground neutral bond in main service panel. or is going to be ok just ground wire into my main service panel with breakers? the existing grounding system?
So i am in a very similar situation. I noticed you didnt rip up the ground and connect the ground rods to the service meter/disconnect, you left it attached to the existing panel. Thats exactly the situation im in right now. So i have a green sheathed ground wire going from the meter to the panel, will that act as a sufficient egc and will leaving the grounding system set up like this cause any problems?
I'm trying to get something similar figured out at my house. I have an indoor panel, and a combo breaker main outside. I was gunna land all the grounding inside on a ground bar, then run a big ground with the service wire outside to the outdoor panel. From there I was gunna bond neutral to ground, and run the ground rods from outside. Is that the proper way to do it?? And how should the ground wire exit the box and enter the ground? Does the ground wire need to be in conduit? I assume I can use a 3/4 knock out and a wire clamp.
Been watching your videos now and have learned quite a bit. I was not aware of torque settings for circuit breakers and connectors. I went out to my panel to look for any overheated wires or loose screws. I did pick up a spare Square D circuit breaker but did not find a torque value. When did that start? It also appears that it’s easy to break/crack the housing and/or the actual connector. I would think the mfg would make them more rugged.
@@ElectricProAcademy I got hit on this several years ago as a new JW. I argued that my ground lug was installed exactly like the existing one right next to it. AHJ said that the existing lug wasn't under his jurisdiction, as it had a qualifying listing, but mine did not. He did allow me to fix it on the spot. I remove the paint with a wire brush and add some de-ox to prevent rust if it's in a damp location.
I want the same siemens disconnect installed under my meter. Having a hard time getting it "allowed" im installing solar and want to be able to turn off power before my grid tied hybrid inveter. Should the thing need a "reset" it is a computer after all.
Hey Joel! Great videos!! Question Re: External/Emergency House Disconnect I have a single-breaker, whole house, external, emergency disconnect box on my home. Subsequently, my first, downstream, load center, inside my garage, is actually a sub panel. If I want to add a generator inlet box/breaker, can I add it - with a properly installed interlock kit - in that first load center (subpanel); OR do I need to look at possibly altering the emergency disconnect box to accommodate the add of the breaker for the generator inlet in the outside disconnect box??? Sorry for the length! I THOUGHT it was a short question!
I am glad to see you use a torque wrench. Inspectors in the cities around (Volusia Co in Florida) started years ago insisting on verifying the torques so I have been torquing with an Snap-On lbs/in torque wrench and a ft-lbs torque wrench and used a magic marker to write the torque it was tightened to on the interior box walls and I also took a picture of the torque wrench dial as I tightened.
What do you do inside the box if the house only has the wiring for black and white wires but no 3rd grounding wire? Just wire it as you see it here with those 2 connected or do you have to rewire the whole house if the wiring doesn't have a ground wire in it along with the black and white for all the outlets?
It looks like your phase B wire was swapped to the left side of the line side of the disconnect. But on the right side of the load side of the disconnect. Is that correct?
I’m up grading to a 200 amp service, and my outside meter and mr inside panel are over 6 ft apart I’m going to use steel conduit. DOES MY DISCONECT have to be fuseable ? I was going to buy a blade box and put emergency disconnect on panel. I live in Detroit
great video, glad I found your channel. In regards to a one-handed cutting tool, the compact bandsaws from both milwuakee and Dewalt are great for cutting feeders!
@@ElectricProAcademy Mike Holt has discussed this on RUclips. His take is that the Grounding Electrode provides very limited meaningful safety to the electrical system, and mainly serves to discharge lightning in the event of a strike. So his point was, make the GEC as short as possible to limit the voltage drop. But no, I don't think there is a Code requirement of maximum distance or a correlation to increase the size of the GEC based on distance..
If you are moving a panel and have to add more than 6 feet of conductors than yes you have to provide AFCI, AFCI/GFCI or GFCI protection where applicable. Otherwise existing installations fall under the grandfather clause.
@@ElectricProAcademy what NEC is Indiana under as we speak? Very interesting. Here in South Carolina we are under the 2017 NEC. We use AFCI protection on all 15 and 20 amp, 120 volt circuits in living spaces , basically if it's heated and air conditioned. dual l function breakers for the kitchen and bath. We use Seimens and haven't had any major issues. Now in the past we've had a ton of issues nuisance tripping, and electricians hated them with a passion. Vacuum cleaners, dimmer switches were the biggest culprit, followed by newer fluorescent lamps with the electronic ballasts. The older fluorescents with the magnetic ballasts didn't seem to nuisance trip the AFCI.
Can I mount my disconnect to the side and pass thru the meter and into the disconnect and then back out thru meter and down into house? I have to replace my meter and add disconnect but don't gave much room
great work neat well done Just a different way of doing things . Never use mini's outside and why use entrance cable inside a conduit? would not fly in N.Illinois
Ground and neutral work the same way. They are used to complete the circuit by providing a returning path to source. The ground is the emergency path to return to source. It's normally not carrying electricity so it allows the return to happen so fast that it can create a strong enough magnetic field to trip the breaker. When you bond the ground and neutral before the first disconnect or main breaker, you'll never create a strong enough magnetic field to trip it.
So quick question boss. A lot of new installs are asking for this type of disconnect.When you do this do we take off the bonding bar between neutral and ground in the main since it’s not the first means of disconnect anymore ?
@Art12453 yep, you will have to separate the neutral from the ground from the now sub panel.
Not the reason you're not allowed to bond in multiple locations. Bonding downstream of first disconnecting means creates objectionable current Flow on the ground wire
The sirens in the background right as you cut the tag off was perfect. 😂
ya that wasn't editing.
Man, your explanation of the ground/common bonding at the disconnect vs load center was exactly what I was hunting for. Thank you so much. This video is gold for a residential setup.
This is the kind of content that really gives me hope for a future workforce that has both technical skills and a positive and professional understanding of the complexities of interaction with regulators and customers. Kids who might not sign up for classes in the trades can see a great deal here that would attract them to take that next step to move into a good trade. Thanks for some great content.
Nah trades suck ass and not worth it. Find any other career than a trade job! These don’t pay shit!
Don’t hold your breath
I hate to say it, but@@dialac1is right...
Excersise caution as he uses a sawsall inches fom 240 V death lol.
I got a free estimate to move my meter from the basement to outside and install a main disconnect outside with it. It was going to cost much more than I was expecting. I ended up doing the project myself, and it was a fabulous experience learning how to do this kind of stuff properly beyond just outlets, lights, and switches. And yes at a fraction of the cost
I am trying to upgrade my breaker panel to 200 amps. Thats my next big project in the next 4 months.
I am as well. @@eddyparker10 I think you'd find great value in reading 'Wiring Simplified'. That book in combination with the power company's specs and a lot of RUclips videos has given me the confidence to tackle the upgrade by myself. I'm probably going to start next week with the actually installation. Good luck!
You said that 'the free thing can become devalued'. You're half right. There have been studies done that prove that people place absolutely NO value on free things.
Thank you for taking the time to produce these videos.
I was so happy to hear you say "next time buy a Fluke." While Kleins DMM may be good enough, the serviceability of Fluke DMMs is second to none! TSA would regularly break the screen on my Flukes but I could buy a replacement straight from Fluke for like $12. Pop off the outer case and pop in the new screen in 5 minutes.
Enjoying your videos. Recently retired Indianapolis Master's Electrical Engineer (not a licensed electrician) that has also had my Indy General Contactor license (15 years ago), a remodeling business and have been doing Electrical wiring for 40+ years but never pulled a meter nor replaced a main panel. I have run a subpage for hvac.
I'm passionate about learning and get great fulfillment in doing things professionally myself. Now that I'm retired I have spent 40 hours last few weeks reviewing NEC 2020 and 2008 for Indy; Indy Electrical codes and permitting. Been evaluating Electrical equipment reviews, pricing equipment etc.
Spent a lot of time watching Mike Holt training videos before I came across you.
After reviewing all that I could find it came down to Siemens and Square D QO series panels. I like the 60 position QO Square D panel best.
I like the idea of adding this disconnect to give me more flexibility when I add a 24KV Generac.
I'll happily pay your fee to discuss my project and get your advice.
My first preference would be to hire a Master Electrician that would let me participate in the panel change out project. But I am also open to a fair bid.
I'll reach out to you to see if we can meet for a fee, no freebie. I have done my homework and prepared a scope of work.
This is a 1998 4000 Sq ft home on Indy NE side with 35 breakers with many doubled up. Our new home is our forever home and I want to junk the Thomas Butts panel and upgrade to QO Square D while adding a basement QO subpanel for my basement shop. Later this year I plan to add a 24KV Generac.
Hope you are interested in discussing my project.
I love your videos and that you have local Indianapolis experience with AES/IPL.
Tom T in The Moorings 96th & Mud Creek 46256
I love that you are a faith based company.
That's like saying you have a pilot's license but not a drivers.
If it's a commercial site I would use a QO panel. For a residential I would use a Square D Homeline with the plug on neutral. You will save some money and I never seen a problem with a Homeline panel. Square D panels also has the convenient plug in surge breaker. Install it in the 1st position next to the main breaker. Then I would use all GFCI/AFCI combo breakers on every circuit that will have an outlet.
If only every customer was like this 🤣
Second on using the Homeline instead of the QO. The breakers are slightly wider but the connections are better.
That’s if you are set on a Square D panel.
Leviton makes a very nice panel now where the wires are permanently landed on a bar and breakers can be snapped in and out without having the undo wires. And can be upgraded to a smart panel easily.
Dude! What a well-made video with such an intelligent, lucid narration. I learned a few things for sure 👏🏼💪🏼
I love the lock box idea for inspectors . I have spent an unbelievable amount of time this week just sitting around waiting for Baltimore city inspectors!
Wow, not only picking up tips and tricks. I'm learning business concepts from you. Greatly appreciated!!!
HAHA 😄You clip the tamper seal @ 3:10 and we hear instant sirens in the background... Perfect timing! 😎👍
I’m doing this in my home now. I’m installing a non fused 200amp safety switch in between my meter and ATS for my generator. Are the neutrals and grounds shared here since it is the first means of disconnect?
This is a favorite RUclips channel of mine. Thank you for taking the time to produce quality videos, good work practice, and good business tips. Thank you.
The most important thing you said was "Take care of the Next Guy!" I am a retired commercial electrician in Florida and I have seen too much work that in my mind did not come close to being done in a workmanship like manner! Thanks!
I love your videos. I work from home and I put your video up on the big screen and let them play while I work. I was an electrician as a young man so I live vicariously through your work.
Good video. But I"m trying to figure out, why didn't you land the EGC from the outside main disconnect box onto the new grounding bar that you added to the interior panel. If you left it connected to the neutral busbar on the left side, wouldn't that be a ground fault?
I was wondering the same.
I'm stickin' with Joel,, He makes it easy as a pro
This is the best electrical channel I've seen. Thank you!!
I don't know how you put up with all the complaining, ungrateful comments! I think you did a great job and it seems that people will always find something to complain about. Thanks for your excellent video!
The round plastic meter cover on my panel is very oxidized and I can no longer read the numbers on the meter. Is that something that requires the replacement of the whole meter or can just the cover be replaced?
33:40 Since you mentioned it earlier, why is some wire exposed on the lower left meter connection after you mentioned it shouldn't be on the connection in the lower box? Different rules for meter and disconnect boxes?
I appreciate the effort you put into this video and the tips from your years of experience doing this type of work. Thank you!
Much more detail than I was originally looking for, but very much appreciated. Thanks for a great vid.
If i am installing a manual 200 amp double throw swich in the place of your application it does not a a breaker so would it still be the only place i bond my neutral and ground
Thanks!
Thanks so much, @bradbrask!
As an apprentice, im glad to have found this channel.
some of the best practical advice I've seen, it's the little things like" best practice" techiques (like always have a tube of goo) that make a job move smoothly .
Great video. Question. On the inside panel, after separating the grounds from neutrals, do you need to move the large ground connector / external earth ground to the newly installed ground bar? Leaving it bounded to the cabinet requires the individual grounds to bond through the cabinet before getting to the earth ground. Thank you.
It needs to go outside to the new disconnect. There it will bond to the neutral and enclosure.
My apprentice mind greatly appreciates your video!
I worked with a lineman upgrading a house to 200 amp service. He used normal garden loppers to cut the cables. worked like a charm and a lot cheaper than ratcheting cutters.
@@ElectricProAcademy I use a pair of Southwire loppers I got from Menards. Chops up to 4/0 aluminum or 3/0 copper with ease. Not very big either, just the one handed version. I would advise against using a sawzall, risk of kickback if gets snagged on the wire, and just more mess , metal shavings etc.
Harbor Freight sells a cutter fairly cheap.
Apprentice here, so I'm in no position to question a Master. Can one of the Masters or Journeymen reading this comment and correct me if I am wrong?
With that said, I don't think he bonded his neutral to ground. They were bonded inside the house at the original panel. But since the inside panel box is now a subpanel, he un-bonded the neutral from the ground. However, I did not see him bond the neutral to the ground in the new box outside.
Wasn't he supposed to run a bonding jumper from his neutral lug in the new disconnect box outside (the lug with the green screw 24:06) inside and land it on the ground bus inside so as to bond the grounds to the neutral at the first point after the first disconnect?
OR
Was he supposed to run the jumper from the ground lug to the neutral lug inside of the new disconnect box outside?
Excellent video. Thank you so much! Thanks for pointing out the Torque Wrench information, and many other things
As this is the first means of disconnect, shouldn't the grounded conductor be bonded to the grounding service conductors?
Your explanations are first class as well as completeness of the job. When I had my solar array installed the electrician was not present when inspector showed up. End result was a red flag that the solar company wanted me to pay for. Needless to say never used them again and they shortly went out of business.
Sorry to hear it! Thanks for the kind words
Great video. Thanks. I watched the complete video. I missed something. I did understand the bonding at the first disconnect and disconnecting it at the sub panel which used to be the main panel. My question is where is the ground rod to earth?
I use that same belt. 50 bucks for the pouch 30 bucks for the belt. Ad a few decent pouches and you're golden. People are buying that diamond back pouch for like 150 bucks and it's not even set up right lol. Good deal. Thanks for the video
I love how thorough you are, and your attention to detail.
When you removed the ground conductors that were previously tightened,torqued, down, you should clip the ends. The indents on the copper are work hardened and the first place where micro cracks start. Reinserting and retightening on these spots leads to larger cracks and can cause total failure the next time those wires are moved, for appearance, maintenance or add-ons.
27:45 - am I just imagining it, or did you put this wire with a red stripe (indicating phase B, right?) on the opposite side as it was on below (ref 26:43)? Is that a potential problem?? (I mean, obviously the electricity doesn't care, but are there reasons it could come back to bite someone down the road? I'm not immediately thinking of any that aren't utterly contrived, but... I'm not an electrician, just interested, so... asking!)
If you can't put your grounding electrode conductor in the meter, what do you do if you have multiple service equipment? Do you just run the GEC to the first panel and run a supply-side bonding conductor between the two service disconnects?
Could you do a video explaining when and where to bond or not bond your neutral/ground buss bars?
why you did not wire up the ground wire to the new ground bar that you added in the second electrical panel (interiror panel)?
Thanks for the video. So I understand that the ground in the new first disconnect you installed is an earth ground and an equipment ground via the subpanel, and that the neutral and ground in the disconnect are coupled via the green ground screw at the neutral. As to the subpanel, neutral and ground are no longer bonded, and the earth ground and equipment ground are coupled together and fed via the single ground to the new first disconnect. This arrangement appears to be not in strict compliance with the code because the earthand equipment ground are coupled in the subpanel. Am I missing something?
Thank you for making this video. It really helped fill in an information gap for my 200 amp service upgrade.
Always a good day when you get the opportunity to use the word serendipitous in relation to your work.
😂
although i just recently i started watching your videos, one things is for sure, the content is very good and also it has helped me to understand some stuff that i was in doubt THANK YOU ....
So you didn't join Neutral/Ground at the outside disconnect and you separated them at the panel. Are you OK?
With a external disconnect, you dont have the ground and neutral bonded in the pannel?
The wrapping around s e r, sec , inside conductors before the outer sheath, is a rodent protectant material wrap
Grounding electrode conductor??
The inspector didn't make you terminate the grounding electrode system in the disconnect?
New here and holy smokes your videos are long and filled end to end with small tips and nuance. Please keep doing this!
@@ElectricProAcademy You could do both, a lot of popular channels here like Rainman Ray's, South Main Auto etc, have both really short videos and long in depth ones whenever the subject or topic requires it. Keeps everyone happy. Most of the time. :) Can't please everyone all of the time, but it's easier to piss off most of the people most of the time... LOL
Do you have to use ser cable to supply a branch or feeder? Or can you use seu in a raceway with a separate egc? Or even individual 4/0 conductors with a copper egc?
I've been doing my own electrical work for 45 years!
Would the cable and gas bond be in the main service disconnect or the sub panel?
Great video. I am in complete agreement on the value of the paid estimate. Nothing more valuable than your time and experience. Not an electrician but I work for myself and am in the service industry. I usually request for a consultation fee that is credited to the project if they use me for the project. Question: why did you/he install a new ground terminal strip for the ground?; Transferring the existing ground over to it.
What tool can I get to torque my connections. Is it a torx bit ?
Torquing is different than the Torx standard for bits (6-pointed star type). Torquing your connections requires a dedicated tool which clicks at a user-selected value. For main and major lugs we use this wrench: amzn.to/3LUCC4C, for device and smaller terminals we use this screwdriver: amzn.to/3PLsZ9L
What I needed was a Torx socket which would fit the main panel lugs, I don’t know what size the socket I need.
Ah, sorry. That information may be different based on manufacturer but sounds like you're looking for something like this? amzn.to/48CJ4q0
does an ac disconnect consider a main panel if installed before this main service panel? my ac disconnect doesn't have any breaker it's a manual switch for disconnecting the meter from the main service manually it has 2 200amp fuse inside. so my question is if do i need a ground neutral bond in ac-disconnect switch and isolated the ground neutral bond in main service panel. or is going to be ok just ground wire into my main service panel with breakers? the existing grounding system?
does the new 2023 code require a cutoff outside on a sub-box in a non-attached garage?
So i am in a very similar situation. I noticed you didnt rip up the ground and connect the ground rods to the service meter/disconnect, you left it attached to the existing panel. Thats exactly the situation im in right now. So i have a green sheathed ground wire going from the meter to the panel, will that act as a sufficient egc and will leaving the grounding system set up like this cause any problems?
did you use insulated gloves ?
I'm trying to get something similar figured out at my house. I have an indoor panel, and a combo breaker main outside. I was gunna land all the grounding inside on a ground bar, then run a big ground with the service wire outside to the outdoor panel. From there I was gunna bond neutral to ground, and run the ground rods from outside. Is that the proper way to do it?? And how should the ground wire exit the box and enter the ground? Does the ground wire need to be in conduit? I assume I can use a 3/4 knock out and a wire clamp.
6:47 if it started raining hard and the cardboard becomes soaked could it cause an arc flash?
Been watching your videos now and have learned quite a bit. I was not aware of torque settings for circuit breakers and connectors. I went out to my panel to look for any overheated wires or loose screws. I did pick up a spare Square D circuit breaker but did not find a torque value. When did that start? It also appears that it’s easy to break/crack the housing and/or the actual connector. I would think the mfg would make them more rugged.
Surprised you didn’t lubricate terminal screws? That normally requires adjusting torque settings.
😊
This my second time watching this video. I love how you walk us through the entire process. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're an excellent teacher. Would love to see a greater commitment to safety.
Why didn't you just turn that hub around instead of using the offset?
Is that a red color coded wire you just put in a neutral lug?
Why wouldn't you use a set of loppers?
Is there not one box that can have the meter and the disconnect?
So how did you comply with 250.12 when installing your new ground bar inside the panel?
@@ElectricProAcademy I got hit on this several years ago as a new JW. I argued that my ground lug was installed exactly like the existing one right next to it. AHJ said that the existing lug wasn't under his jurisdiction, as it had a qualifying listing, but mine did not. He did allow me to fix it on the spot.
I remove the paint with a wire brush and add some de-ox to prevent rust if it's in a damp location.
Do you do outside plugs?
I want the same siemens disconnect installed under my meter. Having a hard time getting it "allowed" im installing solar and want to be able to turn off power before my grid tied hybrid inveter. Should the thing need a "reset" it is a computer after all.
Hey Joel! Great videos!!
Question Re: External/Emergency House Disconnect
I have a single-breaker, whole house, external, emergency disconnect box on my home. Subsequently, my first, downstream, load center, inside my garage, is actually a sub panel.
If I want to add a generator inlet box/breaker, can I add it - with a properly installed interlock kit - in that first load center (subpanel); OR do I need to look at possibly altering the emergency disconnect box to accommodate the add of the breaker for the generator inlet in the outside disconnect box??? Sorry for the length! I THOUGHT it was a short question!
I bought a place with a fused disconnect, can I replace this with a breaker?
100Amp to 200Amp #2 awg back to 100Amp panel box ( 2 hots, neutral and ground? do I put neutral bus bar?
Is it safe to be waving that metal screwdriver around, inside the energized meter box?
I am glad to see you use a torque wrench. Inspectors in the cities around (Volusia Co in Florida) started years ago insisting on verifying the torques so I have been torquing with an Snap-On lbs/in torque wrench and a ft-lbs torque wrench and used a magic marker to write the torque it was tightened to on the interior box walls and I also took a picture of the torque wrench dial as I tightened.
So what are the amps running live into that box you’re working in? What happens when you complete that circuit with those black gloves?
What do you do inside the box if the house only has the wiring for black and white wires but no 3rd grounding wire? Just wire it as you see it here with those 2 connected or do you have to rewire the whole house if the wiring doesn't have a ground wire in it along with the black and white for all the outlets?
Your most of who you hang with, I'm hanging out with you.. Cheers to success.
Would you need to ground the disconnect, if it were off the main, and the disconnect is feeding a sub-panel?
WHATS THE NAME OF THAT PVC adapter you put on top of the offset
The timing of when you cut the tag (3:10) and a siren went off in the background. 😂😂😂
This was exactly what i was looking for. Thank you.
If you don't mind,I have a question what is the phase difference between those hot two wire.?
It looks like your phase B wire was swapped to the left side of the line side of the disconnect. But on the right side of the load side of the disconnect. Is that correct?
The sirens going off in the background, at the exact moment when you cut the seal off the meter: awesome sound editing. You did add that in, right?
😅 We wish...
Great video and explanation of everything. One note is there is no need for the NoLox anymore unless called for by the manufacturer.
What is torque specs on tightening main lines?
I’m up grading to a 200 amp service, and my outside meter and mr inside panel are over 6 ft apart I’m going to use steel conduit. DOES MY DISCONECT have to be fuseable ?
I was going to buy a blade box and put emergency disconnect on panel. I live in Detroit
great video, glad I found your channel. In regards to a one-handed cutting tool, the compact bandsaws from both milwuakee and Dewalt are great for cutting feeders!
I've come to really love my compact band saw. Been using it fairly often in our more recent videos!
40:50 is there a code that specifies conductor wire size and maximum conductor distance from that disconnect panel to the actual grounding rod?
@@ElectricProAcademy Mike Holt has discussed this on RUclips. His take is that the Grounding Electrode provides very limited meaningful safety to the electrical system, and mainly serves to discharge lightning in the event of a strike. So his point was, make the GEC as short as possible to limit the voltage drop. But no, I don't think there is a Code requirement of maximum distance or a correlation to increase the size of the GEC based on distance..
With that scope of work wouldn’t you need to put in afci breakers?
If you are moving a panel and have to add more than 6 feet of conductors than yes you have to provide AFCI, AFCI/GFCI or GFCI protection where applicable. Otherwise existing installations fall under the grandfather clause.
@@ElectricProAcademy what NEC is Indiana under as we speak? Very interesting. Here in South Carolina we are under the 2017 NEC. We use AFCI protection on all 15 and 20 amp, 120 volt circuits in living spaces , basically if it's heated and air conditioned. dual l function breakers for the kitchen and bath. We use Seimens and haven't had any major issues. Now in the past we've had a ton of issues nuisance tripping, and electricians hated them with a passion. Vacuum cleaners, dimmer switches were the biggest culprit, followed by newer fluorescent lamps with the electronic ballasts. The older fluorescents with the magnetic ballasts didn't seem to nuisance trip the AFCI.
Since when is aluminum feed to breaker panel code. Not in Illinois to much expansion contraction
Excellent information and great work.
Can I mount my disconnect to the side and pass thru the meter and into the disconnect and then back out thru meter and down into house? I have to replace my meter and add disconnect but don't gave much room
Did you run a jumper to the new buss? Thanks
No. The added ground bus is electrically connected through the enclosure and the bus's mounting screws that he painstakingly tapped.
The GEC is required to be unbroken from the rod to the first disconnect. You can use an un-reversable (crimping) connector.
How can you connect an iterlock to that panel you installed?
For a generator.
Does drilling into the ground bar/panel take the ul listing away from it?
great work neat well done Just a different way of doing things . Never use mini's outside and why use entrance cable inside a conduit? would not fly in N.Illinois