Please don't take this wrong, I love your channel ❤️. I am pleading with you, when you are using a cut-off wheel Please Please wear a face shield with your safety glasses Please. I have worked in industrial, and commercial jobs for 46 years and seen those disk break and stick in a face shield, thank goodness we required a face shield when cutting or grinding. Keep up the great videos! And be safe.
The rear bone mounting brackets as you have them will bind with suspension movement up and down. Mounting tabs should be vertical and on a corresponding angle with the bones.
Morning Travis, I'm not much of a "T" fan, but you & your partner are doing a nice job. I used the same motor mounts on my 31 Ford project. Judging by the Gold engine color, must be a 371 Olds?
Thought you might pie cut the frame rails? Please consider fish plates on the inter frame rails sidewalls (Done). Edit: 1/4" fishplate under the Z? I like the solid trans cross member to add rigidly but would prefer a K member. I still like the high T firewall, it is flat.
Travis, though I am not a rod builder, I must say that I'm not liking the way you did the front engine mounts. The sitting on the edge of both the mount and the frame rail which makes me think that the mounts could fold over at the welds. Me thinks it would have better to run the mount down along the inside of the rails to support the weight of that fat Olds engine.
The deal with this car is for me to just get it rolling and steering. He is going to do a lot more gusseting and finishing so don’t worry about anything it’ll be ok.
The material thickness is massive when compared with the mounts bolted to the motor. Could have left a 15° flare on the rear edge of the vertical or add an 1/8" tapered gusset closing the fronts 2/3-3/4 of the boxing wall.
@@RACGARAGE do you still have that roof the one that you picked up in the one video also I just need a lot of measurements so I can get the beltline setback on the bottom of the car possible any rear sheet metal to make up the difference for the back panel I have the new rear patch the rear lower quarters and Cowl panel. I'm going to order the bottoms of the doors next
Interesting video, like what you're doing for the most part. Find it rather strange that someone would use precision blocks directly on the floor. Points out that you are no machinist, even if they were shop made, you never let polished surface touch concrete it will begin rusting, 2X4's would have been a better and cheaper choice with the same degree of precision on an unknown level surface like a garage floor!
I have never noticed Travis state that he was a machinist. That being said you're apparently not either as blocks aren't polished they are precision ground. Oh and touching them to cement will not promote rust more than touching them to any other surface except possibly plastic. His biggest concern should be marring the ground surface.
Actually, yes, Retired Machinist, Machined Parts Inspector, AWS Certified Inspector. The point was you should never let a precision surface touch unsealed concrete. Concrete does indeed hold moisture for years after the pour, plus picks up moisture with rain and humidity. I used the term "polished" generically, because that's what most non-Machinists would understand. Those are Travis' 2 X 4 blocks, he can use them any way that he sees fit... Wood 2 X 4's may have been a better choice, as the objective is merely to level the rails. Which could be accomplished with simple shims. The first comment was meant to be constructive criticism, not criticizing Travis for his shop practice. (From the 787, I take it that you work in the same company as I did.)@@matthewmoilanen787
Travis: You just illustrated the single most common error source as well as the absolutely most important tool to avoid that (error) outcome in virtually every endeavor !!! That single thing being "communication" !!! You can do the best possible work (which you routinely do), but if you didn't "correctly" understand the scope or intent, or ???, that great work becomes garbage and/or a waste of time and resources. Experience will demonstrate this theory and outcome over and over again as you grow older. Ask me how I know this ??? ???? The owner is not worried about the motor being that much higher than the excel making it ride like a "rocking chair" (very top heavy) ??? Especially with "buggy spring" suspension !! I would really be concerned !! LOT'S of torque in those Olds motors !! ;o) 🛠⚙🔩🗜😉🙃🤷🏻♂🤷🏻♂🤷🏻♂🤷🏻♀🤷🏻♀🤷🤷✌✌
Авто/Мото
Great content
Awesome build series
Love all the hard work
i love your work as always and i see the kid has a drive in him as well. Just great knowing the trade is growing into another generation.
Coming along well Travis Nice Z And Motor mounts
Nice Azz work Travis, Beautiful Azz work dude. Hate when your videos end lol
I’m new to this site and I enjoy watching him quite the craftsman fabricator
Nice progress on the phonebooth, always love seeing them start looking like a car again with the body on there...
Very cool 🤙 have 4 26-27 t body's in the family stash and a 401 in the back of the shop.
Thanks for sharing!
Please don't take this wrong, I love your channel ❤️. I am pleading with you, when you are using a cut-off wheel Please Please wear a face shield with your safety glasses Please. I have worked in industrial, and commercial jobs for 46 years and seen those disk break and stick in a face shield, thank goodness we required a face shield when cutting or grinding.
Keep up the great videos! And be safe.
I have the same panic with folk wearing hoodies with pull cords !!!!!!
👍🏻🍺
The rear bone mounting brackets as you have them will bind with suspension movement up and down. Mounting tabs should be vertical and on a corresponding angle with the bones.
Morning Travis, I'm not much of a "T" fan, but you & your partner are doing a nice job. I used the same motor mounts on my 31 Ford project. Judging by the Gold engine color, must be a 371 Olds?
Sick
Thought you might pie cut the frame rails? Please consider fish plates on the inter frame rails sidewalls (Done). Edit: 1/4" fishplate under the Z? I like the solid trans cross member to add rigidly but would prefer a K member.
I still like the high T firewall, it is flat.
Great channel seen u have a harbor freight spot welder how do u like it
You going to x the frame for rear bones support?
like 231
Travis, though I am not a rod builder, I must say that I'm not liking the way you did the front engine mounts. The sitting on the edge of both the mount and the frame rail which makes me think that the mounts could fold over at the welds. Me thinks it would have better to run the mount down along the inside of the rails to support the weight of that fat Olds engine.
The deal with this car is for me to just get it rolling and steering. He is going to do a lot more gusseting and finishing so don’t worry about anything it’ll be ok.
The material thickness is massive when compared with the mounts bolted to the motor. Could have left a 15° flare on the rear edge of the vertical or add an 1/8" tapered gusset closing the fronts 2/3-3/4 of the boxing wall.
Don’t z the front do a sweep. Sweep looks so much cleaner
yo whats up i have your primer gray 5 window coupe looking for some parts
Ayyy! Small world, what are you looking for?
@@RACGARAGE do you still have that roof the one that you picked up in the one video also I just need a lot of measurements so I can get the beltline setback on the bottom of the car possible any rear sheet metal to make up the difference for the back panel I have the new rear patch the rear lower quarters and Cowl panel. I'm going to order the bottoms of the doors next
Interesting video, like what you're doing for the most part. Find it rather strange that someone would use precision blocks directly on the floor. Points out that you are no machinist, even if they were shop made, you never let polished surface touch concrete it will begin rusting, 2X4's would have been a better and cheaper choice with the same degree of precision on an unknown
level surface like a garage floor!
I have never noticed Travis state that he was a machinist. That being said you're apparently not either as blocks aren't polished they are precision ground. Oh and touching them to cement will not promote rust more than touching them to any other surface except possibly plastic. His biggest concern should be marring the ground surface.
Actually, yes, Retired Machinist, Machined Parts Inspector, AWS Certified Inspector. The point was you should never let a precision surface touch unsealed concrete. Concrete does indeed hold moisture for years after the pour, plus picks up moisture with rain and humidity. I used the term "polished" generically, because that's what most non-Machinists would understand. Those are Travis' 2 X 4 blocks, he can use them any way that he sees fit... Wood 2 X 4's may have been a better choice, as the objective is merely to level the rails. Which could be accomplished with simple shims. The first comment was meant to be constructive criticism, not criticizing Travis for his shop practice. (From the 787, I take it that you work in the same company as I did.)@@matthewmoilanen787
Travis: You just illustrated the single most common error source as well as the absolutely most important tool to avoid that (error) outcome in virtually every endeavor !!! That single thing being "communication" !!! You can do the best possible work (which you routinely do), but if you didn't "correctly" understand the scope or intent, or ???, that great work becomes garbage and/or a waste of time and resources. Experience will demonstrate this theory and outcome over and over again as you grow older. Ask me how I know this ???
???? The owner is not worried about the motor being that much higher than the excel making it ride like a "rocking chair" (very top heavy) ??? Especially with "buggy spring" suspension !! I would really be concerned !! LOT'S of torque in those Olds motors !! ;o) 🛠⚙🔩🗜😉🙃🤷🏻♂🤷🏻♂🤷🏻♂🤷🏻♀🤷🏻♀🤷🤷✌✌
Safety violation (4:11); PPE Eye Protection.
Unsafe??? Is that even a word??? Put your purse down man. Be a man.