New To You Chainsaw Diagnosis...Allen's Super EZ & Walbro HDC Carburetor Disassembly Detail
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- Опубликовано: 16 ноя 2019
- There's a lot to this video; first I go through how I diagnose a "new to me" saw. Then I go right into a full disassembly of a Walbro HDC carb with some good up-close shots. Finally we do a test run!
Just found your channel. OUTSTANDING! I've been wrenching on saws for 40 years and you are the best presenter I've seen on You Tube so far. Articulate, clear speaking, you lay the process out and you tell why and what you're doing. Well done! And then on top of it, you;re working on one of my favorite little saws, the Super EZ Auto. Snotty little buggers they are and very reliable. One of Homelites best IMO. Again, well done, and also thanks for the very limited cursing. It's nice not to have to mute the sound if my grand daughter walks by like I have to do with some of these other clowns.
Great video. Have one that won't start. Set for along time like 35 years. Was told it was burnt up. It has 125 lbs. Compression. No fire. Baked the blue coil. Has fire now. Still work in progress.
Another great video for us new guys.
I have rebuilt many of these carbs, but have never watched someone [who knows what their doing] rebuild one, you do it like I do it, if it's working and ok reuse it. I love it. Thanks Leon.
Love it... I'm trying to learn to work on old saws, and I found your channel. Looks like I'll be watching a lot. Thanks for the great videos.
I just got my "new to me" 1980 Super EZ running, thanks to you Leon! It's my first and only saw. The air filter grommet I got from you works/fits great! Keep these great video's coming and take care.
I love my EZ you fixed. Call Mon about saws. Take care.Kent
Sounds good Kent, was thinking of you today!
Thanks Leon, great video, very helpful and useful!
Thanks for all the hard work Leaon I like the longer videos you’ve been doing lately
I never try to start a "used" older chainsaw without first removing the exhaust. Any debris or rust can easily get sucked into the engine and you can check the piston/cylinder at the same time. Next is checking for spark. Blow as much debris off and in the saw out with a blow gun. Open the tank; check the filter if there is one and rinse with ethanol free fuel. 40:1 mix, start the saw and do the seal test.
Tell you one thing, Leon knows chainsaws. Learned alot from watching this channel
Great informative video! I find that the older saws give you much more satisfaction just to work on them. eBay is a great resource for used saws and parts for pennies on the dollar!
Great video as always .I have an easy-Z that i want to rebuild someday
I've been waiting for another one of these in depth SEZ repair videos! Been getting gas in the air box on mine too so hopefully this will get it going again soon. Thanks for pointing out in that annotation that you want the arm height level with the deck minus the gasket!!!! Thanks for the closeups Leon you're getting better and better with the vids man. Saw still has excellent rubber on the handle☺
Thank you Bryan!
Ironic. I just did a carb kit on my '81 super mini this weekend. Walbro HDC-64. You can imagine my surprise when you were doing the 1st pulls & fuel sprayed backwards out of the carb, mine does the exact thing! That spring is a PITA to find when it falls... twice.
Love the video!
I was going thru a 330 about the same year..no chain break...bad news when I took the carb off to check out piston skirt...there was what looked like denatured rubber in there. is there a rubber intake boot in there...my first homelite...lol there was one of those ez in the pile I got and another case that's missing a lot of covers its older an smaller but configured like the 330...so I'll be emailing u for parts...i enjoy the videos bud thanks
Thank you for this video Leon, I have recently aquired one of these saws and it also would flood out. I wasn't sure about the needle movement but you showed us how to adjust the movement. I also noticed the fuel pump diaphram was placed on top of your gasket and not below. Which I think is my problem. I have fuel leaking out of the carb when it stalls. Maybe it's because there's no fuel return. I will teardown the carb again a place the fuel pump diagram back in the proper position. Hopefully that will solve my flooding issue!!
Great videos!! Thanks Again!
Just bought a super ez automatic that I'm gonna slowly rebuild and use on a daily basis hopefully
Great video Leon, thank you! Do you have a video on replacing the automatic oiler line on one of these ezs? If not would love to see how you do it.
I don't have that, but the next time I need to do one, I'll film it!
Is the wrist pin on the super xl-76 .375? I am trying to find a piston for my old pioneer 1200a, and was told the piston and rings from the xl will fit. I see quite a few similarities between Remington's, Homelite's, and Pioneer's from back in the day.
Great video, this should be helpful to me soon if the S-EZ I am looking at is still available come next Monday.....its a runner, and shes asking 75 for it....I might haggle the price but not by much unless I see something off or broke. Wish me luck.
Good luck!
Where can i get a blue coil for my EZ I TRIED BAKING WORKED FOR A BIT IT FAILED NEED ANOTHER
I have a Homelite EZ saw. How many cc's are they ? A shortened (ground 1/2 inch off) 5/8 plug socket makes plug removal/replacement much better.
The EZ is 35cc, EZ Automatic is 38cc and Super EZ is 41cc.
Been wrestling with a SEZ. Got spark. Got compression to spare. Will start (sometimes) and rev but not idle for very long. Recently found your video about the circuit plate gasket differences. Went into the carb again last night. Changed the circuit plate gasket and fiddled with metering lever some more. Same symptoms. Is also get spit back in the
Guess I’m gonna have to look for other causes? Air leak? Reed valve?
It could be a reed valve...wouldn't hurt to check, but they are a bit of work to get to.
I'm going with reed valve on this, If you do have to go into it you will need the gaskets. However you do not have to remove/replace the cylinder gasket if you don't want to remove the cylinder. You can cut the existing gasket at the top of the cylinder and do what you need to on the reeds, then take the new gasket and cut off the section for the cylinder and only replace the top. No sense in removing the cylinder if you don't need to and especially just to fix the intake gasket.
May be too late to help u but the ez is about the easiest to start and idles about the best of most saws i have repaired . the start needs choke on to pull fuel tru main jet, metering chamber , fuel pump and tank. hi ck valve has no effect unless it blocks flo tru hi jet. if the decompression lever is on and adjusted to open the short throttle shaft lever on right side to 3/16th lift for a fast idle throttle opening . fine adj.the fast idle by screw at top front of handle. the lower compression allows faster ,easier pull w higher spark available to plug. .bad idle is due to too rich or too lean .too lean can be starve out caused by def hi check valve allowing air press. of 14.7 lbs into metering chamber pushing diaph. up stopping fuel inlet and gradual starve out. if reved it again idles good for a short while . too rich is either hi jet adj, high fuel levet due to leaking needle or metering lever control.
nice
Were you get that spark tester? Thanks
Hey Leon that will be a nice saw. If you don’t mind me picking your brain for a minute I got some trouble with an husqvarna 2100. It’s an idle issue it will idle fine right side up but if I turn the flywheel side up it will idle slightly faster, if I have the clutch side up it idles slightly slower and tends to stall when I turn it upright. It’s driving me nuts. I rebuilt the carb and new pen fuel line and filter. I replaced the crank seals and seemed to pass a pressure test. I plan on redoing this test next week. Any thoughts on what would cause this? Thanks: farmer Jackson
from your description it's a slighty low fuel level as the low jet inlet is on the right side .or front of the carb..you adj. the needles in the level position and the sides or front position alters the amount of fuel.or level available to lo jet inlet.
The HDC will have a slow bleed down and is common until you run mix through it and then the gaskets will expand and stop that.
You are a lot better on getting the carbs in and out of the air box, I typically take the handle off and pull the trigger off it's pin so I can rotate it easier to get the carb linkage loose.
I have also been using NGK 6421 (BM7F) plugs in my SEZ's but I have never had a Champion plug fail me in a saw so there really isn't any reason for the change to NGK if I was to be honest with myself.
For starter cord on the SEZ I have started using Stens True Blue #4 1/2, jeez I hate getting that recoil spring retainer C-clip out, I had one that the lube for the recoil spring had changed to the consistency of dry pine tar and I had to unwind a spring from the inside out just to get a pair of needle nose onto the retaining clip to get it out because it was so gunked into the housing and even tapping on the end and every other trick I could do wouldn't break it free.
I've definitely experienced that and agree completely!
What compression tester do you use? Thanks.
I use a Mity-Vac, I think it's the MV5530 kit.
leon please read the note on the side of the box
I did...after I noticed it during my video editing!
Leon your latest video on Tillotson carbs is coming up as private and we aren't able to watch it...dunno if you wanted it that way or not.
I uploaded the wrong video....actually just a portion of it. It's now deleted and the proper one should be up in another hour or so!
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair Okay good deal!
Your voice is very similar to Nick Offerman.
For your next video, shut off the radio, put a piece of of cardboard on your bench with no logos etc.printed on it, and keep an eye on camera....some of what you were doing the viewer could not see.