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@@chrisjensen7140 Once a video is published, it cannot be edited. Why people that have watched youtube for years do not understand this, is a mystery. You are free to propose this ability to youtube if you like. I have pushed for it for years, but they have not listened to me. They actually had a function called "Annotations" years ago that allowed us to add text captions to a video after it was published, but this function was not compatible with mobile browsers and this is what most people watch youtube on, so YT got rid of it. If this function were still available I could go in and add a note correct my verbal error. In spite of my verbal mistake, I performed the repair correctly and I wish more people would focus on this rather than getting their tail feathers all in a bunch over a misspoke word. Talk about missing the forest for the trees.
I've done many of these and the Intake is the Bottom with the Aluminum Push Rod. Top is Exhaust with Steel Push Rod. (Can always tell because one is shiny (Intake) and one is Black (Exhaust). Good rule of thumb when adjusting is TDC on compression stroke/both valves should be ready to adjust. Intake .004 and Exhaust .006. That seems to always work best.
Yep, if you pull the exhaust pipe that valve is right there. The reason briggs and crackens get fouled up is when that float sticks and the intake, angled straight down to bottom intake, lets gas right into the crank
I am a 62 year old man and been a mechanic all my life,but don't know everything. Many how to videos talk to much and teach very little. This gentleman has hit the mark. Very good job. Please do more. The world needs a good instructor. Your it. Thank you .
@@kawika7666 I agree with @samuelromano3893. I’ve been doing this seems like forever. I rebuilt a 1974 starter today that came off of a 1250 cub cadet after completely taking it apart while at the same time dismantling a 1972 Troy built horse tiller. The reason he is talking to much is he’s trying to teach a barebones beginner. Job well done !
As a rule of thumb and in this case, the "Intake Valve" has an aluminum push rod (bottom) ....where as the "Exhaust Valve" has a steel push rod (top). Good presentation...
Lol I seen that to . he needs to get his info right before he makes a video . and there is a decompression release on the cam that maybe bad if people are getting to much compression
@SilverJustice what good is a how to video if the information given is incorrect. Fortunatly , in this case, the incorrect information didn't and in most situations wont result in considerable engine damage .
I probably won't get a response 4 years later but my problem is I think that someone who worked on this motor before me mixed up the push rods because every briggs motor I have seen has the aluminum on bottom. The one I have here has aluminum on top. I am trying to figure out if they mixed it up so I can adjust valves but also so I can see if compression release is still working. I am not a mechanic. I have a Scotts S1742 with a briggs 17.5 motor. Cant find a serial umber on motor anywhere. Every video I've seen has it on the valve cover buy there are no numbers on this one. I don't want to pull apart motor if I don't have to obviously
I have had this problem for 20+ years. The last time I checked there wasn't a clear answer online (yes, it has been a long time). You have clearly solved my problem! For that I most sincerely thank you!! I'm sure that we have learned from 75% of the comments that you had the valves reversed. Not a big deal after reading a couple comments that made the correction. By inadvertently making the mistake (of mislabelling the valves) you have brought in MANY more comments which is very good for your channel. Congrats!
Top valve is exhaust with the steel push rod. The push rod is the darker color and on the right side of the rocker arm it is visible in your video. The lower is the intake with a lighter color push rod, it's aluminum with steel ends. Verify your engine for these specifications. Mine was a 18.5 HP OHV. Intake : 0.003 to 0.005 I shoot for 0.004
Hey Kevin. Thank you for your information. Many guys say the first valve to move is the intake. Well, what if the engine stopped in a different position? Then the first valve to move would be the exhaust. Am I right? Or does the engine always stop on the exhaust stroke? I would really like to know this. Thanks.
Great explanation on which is the intake and which is the exhaust valve. I thought it was odd that he didn't just say that the valve with the aluminum rod is always the intake.
@@rvalens2 If the aluminum rod is on the exhaust, the exhaust heat would eventuality soften or melt the aluminum rod! Most aluminum melts around 1400 degrees.
I enjoyed your video. I try to do my own repairs as they're expensive, but moreover getting them to a shop or getting someone to the country where I live is next to impossible. I do maintenance so things don't need repair, but with a 20 years old mower, it comes down to other things besides oil, plugs and filters. My starting problem became clear it's compression, so valve adjustment would be necessary. Thank you Google. You took the fear out of it for me. Another video I watched didn't make me feel as comfortable as you did. Not knocking the other guy, because when he demonstrated the starting problem, it was identical to what my mower was doing. What I liked from your video was that you were more educational. Like explaining one valve is intake and the other is exhaust. Don't know why, but that sort of thing helps me to understand the mechanics more clearly. Also, getting the piston at center. You instructed the tool needed to draw back an additional 1/4" from the spark plug hole. That had not been mentioned in the other video. Lastly, appreciated how your mower looked to have been used to mow instead of nice and showroom shiny. 😊 Mine looks like yours. I wish it was nice and shiny. Anyway, I enjoyed and learned from your video. I'll def give it a thumbs up. Wish I could give it a heart also, cause women can work on things like this and still be girly. ❤
As others noted, typical mower engines are called "4 stroke engines" because it takes 4 strokes of the piston to complete a single cycle. Perhaps another helpful tip for you to locate Top Dead Center of the Compression Stroke. Since you will have the spark plug removed and the coil wire pulled aside, you can use your thumb to block the spark plug hole and as you rotate the engine, you will feel the compression from the piston pushing the air past your thumb. Another way to get a visual sign of TDC, you can purchase a spark tester. Using this tester, you attach the tester to a ground on the engine and attach your spark plug wire. When you see the spark plug tester light flash quickly, you know you reached TDC( within a couple degrees of TDC) because that is when a spark plug fires the air/fuel mix in the cylinder. If you had the engine apart further and you could see where the coil mounts, you would also see where the flywheel passes the coil pickup to signal the coil to fire the spark. The point where these two items line up is where you will have both valves closed, the spark plug firing, and the valves can be adjusted as noted.
I always thought that the intake valve had the aluminum pushrod, and the exhaust valve was made of steel and you could tell by the looks of them which one was which. Very good video. I really liked it. Keep the good work up
Adjusted mine last week but i didnt go to all this trouble. Just find TDC & pop the valve cover off & knock the jam nuts loose on both valves. with your fingers run both adjusting nuts down till they bottom out. then back the bottom nuts up 1/4 turn , hold and tighten jam nuts. this will give you 3 to 4 thousands clearance on both valves. Mower will now crank easy and run great.. This will work on almost all riding mowers with a few exceptions. You will know if you have the exception cause it will backfire very loud every time you cut the mower off. if yours is the exception just give the exhaust valve another 1/4 turn out. Great video brother , always good to know the correct way of doing things .
I have the same mower & engine ( a 2005)& the decompression mechanism on the exhaust valve linkage (internally) is suspect bad. So... gonna adjust valves first as engine only cranks to compression, then stops. New battery & starter did not solve this issue. Thanks for the video! You da man!
Another good rule of thumb? IF the engine doesn't want to spin over? Hard Crank? Before you go checking the valves and messing there...make sure it's not vapor locked...(you can tell because there will be gasoline in the oil from Carb flooding. Always a good idea to put shut off valve on the gas line too on older mowers.
Thanks mr! Mine has fuel in the oil cuz I cut the plunger off of the electronic fuel stopper that comes up thru the bottom of the float bowl. I'll get a shutoff valve, even if it's a pair of vice-grips!
You got it BACKWARDS! When the intake valve closes, you have a full compression stroke before it fires and the exhaust valve begins to open. In this video, as soon as the top valve closes, the bottom valve begins to open, immediately! This tells me the top is the exhaust, because on stroke 3 of the 4 stroke engine, the power stroke, as the piston begins to travel upward on the 4th stroke, the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is now opening. as it reaches the top of the stroke, the exhaust has been purged from the cylinder, as that exhaust valve is closing the intake valve is now beginning to open to allow a fresh charge of fuel/air mixture into the cylinder as we begin stroke 1, the intake stroke. The only time in the 4 stroke cycle that both valves rock at the same time is at the very beginning of the intake stroke. This dude is backwards! NEVER shove a metal object in the plug hole to feel the piston coming up. Always use a plastic ink pen or the eraser end of a wood pencil. Anytime you stick a chunk of steel against an aluminum piston you risk the chance of damaging the piston head. It may be ok for you or I to do this, but I don't recommend a novice to try it, and this video is intended to show a novice how to adjust the valves.
He Adjusted the valves backwards and it still ran good. Good ol briggs and stratton. I've been mowing 7 acres in florida for 15 years with a 42 inch murray with the 17.5 briggs and it still runs good. If the engine only spins about 3/4 of a turn and then stops when cranking,and you think you have a weak battery,that's when the valves are usually out of adjustment. Or it could be a broke compression release thingy inside the engine. But it's probably the valves needing adjustment.🔩🔧😷🍺
If you have hard starting it's normally the intake is loose. There is an internal compression release that pushes the intake down when cranking. Much over .004 on the intake will effect this feature resulting in hard cranking
A thousand blessing just shot your way from Tn. Had adjusted these critters before and wondered what those torx screws were. Our riding mower was turning really slow during start up and made ignition a PIA. This fixed it
Your Top One Is The Exhaust Valve. Even Though Both The Exhaust And Intake Are At The Sides Of The Top Valve It Is The Exhaust Valve Because It Is The Closest To The Exhaust. So Since The Top Valve Is Closest To Where The Exhaust Pipe Bolts Up To The Engine It Is The Exhaust Valve. It Is ALWAYS The Valve Closest To The Exhaust Is The Exhaust Valve. Good Video.
Yeah. I converted it many years ago. I can run it on both gasoline and propane. I ran it an propane for over three years mowing 10 acres before getting a new carburetor for it.
I modified my push mower to do that but I didn't do the legit way I did it a diy way and to make it run properly I just had to adjust the flow of propane. It's really easy to do
Agreed. When rotating the engine, for about one whole rotation, the will be no valve movement. This is the compression and power stroke. After these, the exhaust valve will open and the intake will shortly follow. You can also pretty clearly tell the exhaust comes out right at that top valve
Nice vid. I'm a bit confused by the piston cycles and how to tell that I'm on the right cycle to find TDC and then adjust the valves. I don't think that the valves can be adjusted at TDC on either cycle?
There has been a lot of informative comment made on this video by professional mechanics. Reading through them may provide an answer to your question. All I can say is that this method works for me and this mower is still running fine. I am however, not a profesisonal small engine mechanic. I am just a DIYer that tries to make helpoful videos about things I do myself.
Another note: Don't bother wasting time looking for TDS (Top Dead Center). With Spark plug removed rotate engine till bottom spring is compressed (Intake). Then use your feeler gauge to adjust the gap on the Exhaust. Rotate engine a few times, or back and forth to double check your adjustments.Lock your adjustment screw as in the video. NEXT rotate to compress the top Exhaust spring. From there you can adjust your gap on the intake with your feeler gauge. Again follow the video.
thanks for your comment. almost lost a rod listening to the guy in the video. He has everything backwards. reading your comment has my mower running like new. thanks again!
@@TheSponge945 you don't need to do that step if you know what you are doing. Just locate the gap on the intake, then fine tune it with the feeler gauge. Then do the same for the exhaust. Or which ever opens first.
All these Briggs I seen I have one I got it free though my neighbor a Craftsman has 18 brigg I got it running of course the valves need adjustment I have another craftsman riding mower with the kolher command for 22 years never had to adjust the valves it starts just fine still
Great vid, but 2 things need to be addressed... 1- The intake valve is on the bottom, notice the aluminum push rod, exhaust is on the top, steel pushrod. 2- The set screw is a T20 torx bit, not a star bit, which people might confuse for a Phillips bit.(calling it a star)
I'm hoping this will fix my backfiring from the intake issue. One Of my neighbors threw away an lt 1000. So my goal is to try and get it running. Kiwi is not sheared. New spark plug new fuel. The only issue is that fuel float control valve gets stuck Open even after cleaning
You made an assumption that the engine had stopped at the end of the 4th stroke and so the first valve to move was intake. In actuality the engine had stopped at the end of the 2nd stroke and so the exhaust valve opened first when you turned it. When an engine coasts to a stop it doesn’t always stop at the end of an exhaust stroke. It stops when the flywheel runs out of inertia.
Dam right the intake is always the aluminium rod , if you have a look at the head the intake port curves down to the intake, don’t be fooled by amateurs who think the know what they are doing they will and can damage the engine , as the aluminium rod have been known to snap at the top ,usually because of lack of oil and or the engine air filters dirty or clogged , and the plastic guide rubs through the rod and shit your engine is destroyed, a great tip keep your oil clean and make you never over fill , just do your services and your problems will be solved , and a side note do the valves cold NOT HOT .
Actually if you use the gauge before and after you know much better where your adjustment is also the proper way for your jam bolt is torqued what is the torque specs? But you did pretty good thanks.
I always put steel push rods in top and bottom.. otherwise if the aluminum pushrod comes loose ti shoots it inside the motor.. steel can still go in but not as much chance
Thanks for the helpful vid! Now I believe I know how ro do it. However I was surprised you didn’t include torque specs for either the 2 torx bolts or the cover bolts. Is “tight” ok? Some other videos include them.
The Top rocker is your exhaust bottom is intake ! Look where your down pipe is located, The exhaust valve is right there and your intake runner goes down at an angle to your bottom valve. The intake has a aluminum push rod and the exhaust is steel ! "Top is exhaust botton is intake"
A lot of good information but the first valve to move when you turn the engine depends completely on where the engine had stopped and which direction you turn the engine.
Thanks for the video. My engine makes small cut out when running full throttle. I did the valves and rebuilt the carburetor. And changed all service parts and It still cut out. Spark looks fine. Any ideas?
Find tdc first to to find your in and ex valves.. find tdc by using the screwdriver trick like you showed as well as the point where both in and ex valves are free floating
Did it backfire before? My mother-in-laws same mower backfires while trying to crank but want crank. I put a new spark plugs in it and checked the gas filter and replaced the air filter as well. Thanks for any help.
Thank you for your comment. I make these videos to help people. I am glad it was helpful to you. Can I ask you a favor? Covid has hit everyone hard, including me. I would really appreciate it if you could help me too. If you found this video helpful, I would sincerely appreciate if you could share it or my channel one time with someone else that it might help. Thanks again.
I recently bought a used YT3000 with a 21 hp the lights do not work and the battery runs down overnight. Also the battery my tech purchased for the tractor is only 210 CCA. Is that too small for this engine and could the switch be bad on the tractor or could there be a current drain somewhere.? Thanks
Hi. Thanks for the question. I do not believe that the 210 CCA battery is the cause of your problem. There may be a couple things going on here. 1. You may have a short in your lighting system that is preventing your lights from working, and that may also be the cause of your battery running down if it is a short to ground. It also may be that your new battery is bad. Never assume that just because something is new, it is not defective. Unfortunately, when it comes to lawn tractor batteries, they are pretty much all garbage these days. I don't think you can find one that offers longer than a 6-month warranty. They will not last a season if you do not keep them on a battery maintainer when they are not in use. Step number one, I recommend that you take your battery in to get it tested to make sure it is still good. Most auto parts stores like Autozone and O'Rielly's will test your battery for free. Step number two, Look for a short in the wiring system to your lights. The short may be in the switch itself, so make sure you test this. You can test a switch by using a multimeter to do a continuity test. You can also use a continuity test to test the wires from the switch to the lights to see which one may have a short. I hope this helps.
The last video I watched made the same mistake. The EXHAUST valve is always the first to open! The gases from the last fire must be evacuated from the cylinder BEFORE the new fuel mixture can enter. All I need to know is what to set the backlash at. If these guys can't tell intake from exhaust, how can I trust that their set numbers are going to be correct?
Did you see the motor running at the end? Since the making of thos video, this mower has mowed over 100 acres of land. Take a step back and think about that for a second. 😉🧐
@@thejungleexplorer Goes to show that these motors will run even with the wrong settings. Probably not running optimally but running. The video would have been an A+ with the proper identification of the valves. Still decent with the disclaimer that the valves were miss-identified.
He's got his valves mixed up. Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust. After turning the engine, the Intake should move first if it is at the beginning of the cycle. He had his engine in the middle of the cycle (on the Power stroke) then the first valve to move was the exhaust. So he got it wrong. Easy to do if you are not sure where you are in the cycle. Basically if you turn the engine and nothing (with respect to the valves) happens, you are in the compression/power stroke. So.. turn the engine until you don't see any valve move for a good full turn. Then the Intake will be the first to move. So on this engine, it is the bottom valve. Or as others have said, look for the steel or darker push rod (assuming they weren't taken out and put in wrong). So.. the video is good as far as how to adjust them and the adjustment settings but you have to ignore how he tells you the top valve is the intake and use his settings in reverse.
No Sir. The 4 stroke cycle is intake, compression, power, exhaust, which means the next stroke after exhaust is the next intake. As you rotate the engine clockwise, the first to open and close is the exhaust, followed immediately by the intake. The upper is the exhaust valve with the steel pushrod. The lower is the intake with the aluminum pushrod.
just watched another video and they said that the valve with the steel push rod is the top one and could be checked with a magnet, and the alum. push rod is the bottom and as i see it that exhaust pipe mounts close to the top valve that would make it the exhaust
I thought the intake valve always had the aliminum push rod and exhaust a steel push rod. If I'm correct it appears this video is incorrect? Can someone please clarify this matter and comment?
Why will my intake valve, the bottom one not move? The aluminum rod is not bent or cracked. This is a Yard Machine, 13.5 hp Briggs and Stratton,38 inch cut. Thank you
Good video but I think the wrench tightens the jam nut while the torx is the adjuster. I could be wrong but it would explain that the clearance got tighter after tightening the torx.
If you set exhaust valves to tight in any engine you will eventually burn out the valve seats. Loose tolerance in exhaust will never have this problem.
Please go look to almost any other video on this job, this guy is learning as he films this. I have been working on engines a log time, just came here to get the clearance, don't trust it so got it on line. Question is: Why is is so Effin hard for you folks to open up the feeler set and actually set the clearance to spec, not like you have to donate a kidney, geez. By the way, I am working on my own Troy Bronco 18.5 hp. This is its 15th year on the turf, and the valves were only .005 over. Just wonder why a lot of folks are having trouble with worn valves. I do burn lead free gasoline. Consider this, you have the plug out, why not put a new one in, and that crushed gasket is only a couple of bucks on line. Some of these sites feature guys with $50000 trucks but are so cheap to pop a gasket and plug, it is like they are working on these in the mountains of Idaho. The engine numbers are on the top edge of the valve covers.
When you were rotating you were seeing the exhaust stroke and then the intake stroke there would have been a compression stroke between the intake and the exhaust stroke valves moving so you just adjusted the wrong gap for intake and exhaust.
Great video awesome of you taking time to upload and share. I could not get a 10 mm box end wrench on my nuts needed a 5/8. My nuts might be bigger than yours I don’t know.
Yes, they do make changes over the years. My 2014 John Deere D105 has the 17.5 HP Briggs engine, and the valve adjusting nuts are 5/8 inch. Same adjustment procedure, but my specs are .005-.007 for the exhaust, (the top valve), and .003-.005 for the intake, (the lower valve). So I set them at the middle of the range, .006 exhaust and. 004 intake.
why would the bottom aluminum push rod be on the exhaust side? The exhaust side is the harder worker and requires a non aluminum push-rod. I thing you have them mixed up. Thanks for posting the video because it at least gets people chatting and fixing engines. This engine is a pretty intriguing engine for a lot of reasons, not the least of which it is known for blowing head-gaskets (at least my 18hp Intek is), and the valve seats will blow out if you run on a blown head-gasket for too long. Aluminum head will also get stress cracks from the heat of all of the above. again, thanks for sharing.
It seems there are is more than a few designs of this engine. There seems to be a lot of disagreement about the valve settings. All I know is that it has been over a year since I made this adjustment and I have mowed over a hundred acres with the mower and it runs like a top. When theory meets fact, facts always wins.
@@thejungleexplorer yes, and the reason you are running great is because it doesn't really matter on these engines as far as the spec lash goes. you can go 4 thousandths on both the intake and exhaust or go by the book or at least be close and these engines will run fine. the only reason exhaust vs. intake will come into question is when putting things back together and trying to figure out where the wacky push rods go...your push rods were already in there so it's no worries in your case.
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please change your identity of the valves
@@chrisjensen7140 Once a video is published, it cannot be edited. Why people that have watched youtube for years do not understand this, is a mystery. You are free to propose this ability to youtube if you like. I have pushed for it for years, but they have not listened to me. They actually had a function called "Annotations" years ago that allowed us to add text captions to a video after it was published, but this function was not compatible with mobile browsers and this is what most people watch youtube on, so YT got rid of it. If this function were still available I could go in and add a note correct my verbal error. In spite of my verbal mistake, I performed the repair correctly and I wish more people would focus on this rather than getting their tail feathers all in a bunch over a misspoke word. Talk about missing the forest for the trees.
I've done many of these and the Intake is the Bottom with the Aluminum Push Rod. Top is Exhaust with Steel Push Rod. (Can always tell because one is shiny (Intake) and one is Black (Exhaust). Good rule of thumb when adjusting is TDC on compression stroke/both valves should be ready to adjust. Intake .004 and Exhaust .006. That seems to always work best.
Yep, if you pull the exhaust pipe that valve is right there. The reason briggs and crackens get fouled up is when that float sticks and the intake, angled straight down to bottom intake, lets gas right into the crank
Stevie H is right!
@@rywolf01 bottom is int its a fact
Have to agree with that
That is correct👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
The kind of video I like ... All the info you need, without any fluff & theatrics!
I am a 62 year old man and been a mechanic all my life,but don't know everything. Many how to videos talk to much and teach very little. This gentleman has hit the mark. Very good job. Please do more. The world needs a good instructor. Your it. Thank you .
You right he talks too much
@@kawika7666 I agree with @samuelromano3893. I’ve been doing this seems like forever. I rebuilt a 1974 starter today that came off of a 1250 cub cadet after completely taking it apart while at the same time dismantling a 1972 Troy built horse tiller. The reason he is talking to much is he’s trying to teach a barebones beginner. Job well done !
Do you identify the valves by which one goes down first too?
As a rule of thumb and in this case, the "Intake Valve" has an aluminum push rod (bottom) ....where as the "Exhaust Valve" has a steel push rod (top). Good presentation...
correct
Lol I seen that to . he needs to get his info right before he makes a video . and there is a decompression release on the cam that maybe bad if people are getting to much compression
@SilverJustice what good is a how to video if the information given is incorrect. Fortunatly , in this case, the incorrect information didn't and in most situations wont result in considerable engine damage .
I probably won't get a response 4 years later but my problem is I think that someone who worked on this motor before me mixed up the push rods because every briggs motor I have seen has the aluminum on bottom. The one I have here has aluminum on top. I am trying to figure out if they mixed it up so I can adjust valves but also so I can see if compression release is still working. I am not a mechanic. I have a Scotts S1742 with a briggs 17.5 motor. Cant find a serial umber on motor anywhere. Every video I've seen has it on the valve cover buy there are no numbers on this one. I don't want to pull apart motor if I don't have to obviously
I have had this problem for 20+ years. The last time I checked there wasn't a clear answer online (yes, it has been a long time). You have clearly solved my problem! For that I most sincerely thank you!!
I'm sure that we have learned from 75% of the comments that you had the valves reversed. Not a big deal after reading a couple comments that made the correction.
By inadvertently making the mistake (of mislabelling the valves) you have brought in MANY more comments which is very good for your channel.
Congrats!
My pleasure. Glad the video helped you out.
Top valve is exhaust with the steel push rod. The push rod is the darker color and on the right side of the rocker arm it is visible in your video.
The lower is the intake with a lighter color push rod, it's aluminum with steel ends. Verify your engine for these specifications. Mine was a 18.5 HP OHV. Intake : 0.003 to 0.005 I shoot for 0.004
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Hey Kevin. Thank you for your information. Many guys say the first valve to move is the intake. Well, what if the engine stopped in a different position? Then the first valve to move would be the exhaust. Am I right? Or does the engine always stop on the exhaust stroke? I would really like to know this. Thanks.
@@AndysDogHouse Makes perfect sense to me!!
Great explanation on which is the intake and which is the exhaust valve. I thought it was odd that he didn't just say that the valve with the aluminum rod is always the intake.
@@rvalens2 If the aluminum rod is on the exhaust, the exhaust heat would eventuality soften or melt the aluminum rod!
Most aluminum melts around 1400 degrees.
I enjoyed your video. I try to do my own repairs as they're expensive, but moreover getting them to a shop or getting someone to the country where I live is next to impossible. I do maintenance so things don't need repair, but with a 20 years old mower, it comes down to other things besides oil, plugs and filters. My starting problem became clear it's compression, so valve adjustment would be necessary. Thank you Google. You took the fear out of it for me. Another video I watched didn't make me feel as comfortable as you did. Not knocking the other guy, because when he demonstrated the starting problem, it was identical to what my mower was doing. What I liked from your video was that you were more educational. Like explaining one valve is intake and the other is exhaust. Don't know why, but that sort of thing helps me to understand the mechanics more clearly. Also, getting the piston at center. You instructed the tool needed to draw back an additional 1/4" from the spark plug hole. That had not been mentioned in the other video. Lastly, appreciated how your mower looked to have been used to mow instead of nice and showroom shiny. 😊 Mine looks like yours. I wish it was nice and shiny. Anyway, I enjoyed and learned from your video. I'll def give it a thumbs up. Wish I could give it a heart also, cause women can work on things like this and still be girly. ❤
Thank you for commenting catlecat C! I am so glad the video was helpful.
As others noted, typical mower engines are called "4 stroke engines" because it takes 4 strokes of the piston to complete a single cycle. Perhaps another helpful tip for you to locate Top Dead Center of the Compression Stroke. Since you will have the spark plug removed and the coil wire pulled aside, you can use your thumb to block the spark plug hole and as you rotate the engine, you will feel the compression from the piston pushing the air past your thumb. Another way to get a visual sign of TDC, you can purchase a spark tester. Using this tester, you attach the tester to a ground on the engine and attach your spark plug wire. When you see the spark plug tester light flash quickly, you know you reached TDC( within a couple degrees of TDC) because that is when a spark plug fires the air/fuel mix in the cylinder. If you had the engine apart further and you could see where the coil mounts, you would also see where the flywheel passes the coil pickup to signal the coil to fire the spark. The point where these two items line up is where you will have both valves closed, the spark plug firing, and the valves can be adjusted as noted.
I always thought that the intake valve had the aluminum pushrod, and the exhaust valve was made of steel and you could tell by the looks of them which one was which. Very good video. I really liked it. Keep the good work up
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Appreciate it man mower finally runs been working on it long time watched this an gapped everything to what you said an mower fired right up thanks
Glad it helped
Adjusted mine last week but i didnt go to all this trouble. Just find TDC & pop the valve cover off & knock the jam nuts loose on both valves. with your fingers run both adjusting nuts down till they bottom out. then back the bottom nuts up 1/4 turn , hold and tighten jam nuts. this will give you 3 to 4 thousands clearance on both valves. Mower will now crank easy and run great.. This will work on almost all riding mowers with a few exceptions. You will know if you have the exception cause it will backfire very loud every time you cut the mower off. if yours is the exception just give the exhaust valve another 1/4 turn out. Great video brother , always good to know the correct way of doing things .
Good job.
Thanks for this - got my engine running on the first try after following your lead
My pleasure. Glad to be of service.
I have the same mower & engine ( a 2005)& the decompression mechanism on the exhaust valve linkage (internally) is suspect bad. So... gonna adjust valves first as engine only cranks to compression, then stops. New battery & starter did not solve this issue.
Thanks for the video! You da man!
Thank you for commenting Jeff Randolf! I am so glad the video was helpful.
Another good rule of thumb? IF the engine doesn't want to spin over? Hard Crank? Before you go checking the valves and messing there...make sure it's not vapor locked...(you can tell because there will be gasoline in the oil from Carb flooding. Always a good idea to put shut off valve on the gas line too on older mowers.
Thanks mr! Mine has fuel in the oil cuz I cut the plunger off of the electronic fuel stopper that comes up thru the bottom of the float bowl. I'll get a shutoff valve, even if it's a pair of vice-grips!
Thank you for this great information Stevie H. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
10th
You got it BACKWARDS!
When the intake valve closes, you have a full compression stroke before it fires and the exhaust valve begins to open. In this video, as soon as the top valve closes, the bottom valve begins to open, immediately! This tells me the top is the exhaust, because on stroke 3 of the 4 stroke engine, the power stroke, as the piston begins to travel upward on the 4th stroke, the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is now opening. as it reaches the top of the stroke, the exhaust has been purged from the cylinder, as that exhaust valve is closing the intake valve is now beginning to open to allow a fresh charge of fuel/air mixture into the cylinder as we begin stroke 1, the intake stroke. The only time in the 4 stroke cycle that both valves rock at the same time is at the very beginning of the intake stroke. This dude is backwards! NEVER shove a metal object in the plug hole to feel the piston coming up. Always use a plastic ink pen or the eraser end of a wood pencil. Anytime you stick a chunk of steel against an aluminum piston you risk the chance of damaging the piston head. It may be ok for you or I to do this, but I don't recommend a novice to try it, and this video is intended to show a novice how to adjust the valves.
correct, top valve is the intake valve
@@chrisjensen7140 oops... better check your reply mate, I know you meant to say top valve is exhaust.
Thanks Mike,, you got it right,,,,
Thank you for this great information mike speece. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
I adjusted valves on my mower inlet at bottom, exhaust at botton
He Adjusted the valves backwards and it still ran good. Good ol briggs and stratton. I've been mowing 7 acres in florida for 15 years with a 42 inch murray with the 17.5 briggs and it still runs good. If the engine only spins about 3/4 of a turn and then stops when cranking,and you think you have a weak battery,that's when the valves are usually out of adjustment. Or it could be a broke compression release thingy inside the engine. But it's probably the valves needing adjustment.🔩🔧😷🍺
Thank you for commenting Donald Green!
If you have hard starting it's normally the intake is loose. There is an internal compression release that pushes the intake down when cranking. Much over .004 on the intake will effect this feature resulting in hard cranking
Thank you for commenting sky5jump!
What to set at
Dear Jungle explorer. Great video. Great example and straight to the point
Thank you for commenting PureBloodAmerican🇺🇸. I am very happy to hear that you enjoyed the video.
Great video, I just made some adjustments on mine and it runs great now
My pleasure. Glad it was useful.
You are da man worked the first time!
👍. Glad the video helped.
A thousand blessing just shot your way from Tn. Had adjusted these critters before and wondered what those torx screws were. Our riding mower was turning really slow during start up and made ignition a PIA. This fixed it
So glad it was of some hop. A double portion of blessings back to you.
Awesome video!…. The explaining on exhaust and intake was soooo helpful!
Thank you soooo much!!!!
You are very welcome. I am glad it was helpful.
Your Top One Is The Exhaust Valve. Even Though Both The Exhaust And Intake Are At The Sides Of The Top Valve It Is The Exhaust Valve Because It Is The Closest To The Exhaust. So Since The Top Valve Is Closest To Where The Exhaust Pipe Bolts Up To The Engine It Is The Exhaust Valve. It Is ALWAYS The Valve Closest To The Exhaust Is The Exhaust Valve. Good Video.
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Thanks for the video very informative.was the only video out of many I watched that got my power washer back up and running
Glad it helped
Kinda missed this the first time around, but kinda cool that you had this converted to a dual fuel.
Yeah. I converted it many years ago. I can run it on both gasoline and propane. I ran it an propane for over three years mowing 10 acres before getting a new carburetor for it.
Here is a video I made about it. It is one of the very first videos I made for my channel. ruclips.net/video/b06bueSIU5U/видео.html
I modified my push mower to do that but I didn't do the legit way I did it a diy way and to make it run properly I just had to adjust the flow of propane. It's really easy to do
Thanks for in information it worked perfectly 😊
You're welcome. Glad it helped.
You are mistaken top valve is EXHAUST!!! Four stroke engine: intake-compression-power-exhaust!!
Yep. The exhaust valve uses a steel pushrod, and intake uses an aluminum pushrod. That is the easiest way to identify the valve on these engines.
Agreed. When rotating the engine, for about one whole rotation, the will be no valve movement. This is the compression and power stroke. After these, the exhaust valve will open and the intake will shortly follow. You can also pretty clearly tell the exhaust comes out right at that top valve
@@Skippo18Yes , I was just going to say that .
Not only that, you can see the top valve is literally next to the exhaust pipe.
Good info
The screw you are referring to is called a Torx screw which need Torx bits. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for commenting.
3 thumbs up 👍👌 great video,thanks for being so humble and patience. CW
you definitely did a better job on explaining the valve adjustment Thanks RB Michigan
My pleasure. Glad it helped
Thank you for giving us a good lesson
My pleasure. Glad you enjoyed it
life saver for sure
thx for your lesson
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And there is a decompression release on the cam shaft so if you are getting to much compression check your cam make sure it's not broke
I don't think mine is working. I don't get the little "bump" on the intake valve :(
There is no compression release
@@thejungleexplorer it's an internal compression release on the camshaft .. it hand grenades all the time on these engines.
I've watch a couple of videos this one was solid. I got my pen out. Thanks.
Nice vid. I'm a bit confused by the piston cycles and how to tell that I'm on the right cycle to find TDC and then adjust the valves. I don't think that the valves can be adjusted at TDC on either cycle?
There has been a lot of informative comment made on this video by professional mechanics. Reading through them may provide an answer to your question. All I can say is that this method works for me and this mower is still running fine. I am however, not a profesisonal small engine mechanic. I am just a DIYer that tries to make helpoful videos about things I do myself.
Thanks for demonstration. It was extremely helpful.
Another note: Don't bother wasting time looking for TDS (Top Dead Center). With Spark plug removed rotate engine till bottom spring is compressed (Intake). Then use your feeler gauge to adjust the gap on the Exhaust. Rotate engine a few times, or back and forth to double check your adjustments.Lock your adjustment screw as in the video. NEXT rotate to compress the top Exhaust spring. From there you can adjust your gap on the intake with your feeler gauge. Again follow the video.
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thanks for your comment. almost lost a rod listening to the guy in the video. He has everything backwards. reading your comment has my mower running like new. thanks again!
Why is it not important to find TDC? Some say do it with TDC others say your way. I’m so lost.
@@TheSponge945 you don't need to do that step if you know what you are doing.
Just locate the gap on the intake, then fine tune it with the feeler gauge. Then do the same for the exhaust. Or which ever opens first.
@@kevincronin60181 appreciate your reply but it doesn’t really answer the question. So why can it be done via TDC or your way.
we like this video it actually gave you the number setting for the valves.
Good job explained thank understand
Thanks. Glad it helped
All these Briggs I seen I have one I got it free though my neighbor a Craftsman has 18 brigg I got it running of course the valves need adjustment I have another craftsman riding mower with the kolher command for 22 years never had to adjust the valves it starts just fine still
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Great vid, but 2 things need to be addressed...
1- The intake valve is on the bottom, notice the aluminum push rod, exhaust is on the top, steel pushrod.
2- The set screw is a T20 torx bit, not a star bit, which people might confuse for a Phillips bit.(calling it a star)
Thank you for this great information @splash5974. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
@@thejungleexplorer cheers
Still a great vid!
This helped a lot thank you.
Thank you for commenting opinion! I am so glad the video was helpful.
This helped a lot. Thanks!
Great video and very helpful!
Thank you. I am so happy to hear that the video helped you out.
I'm hoping this will fix my backfiring from the intake issue. One Of my neighbors threw away an lt 1000. So my goal is to try and get it running. Kiwi is not sheared. New spark plug new fuel. The only issue is that fuel float control valve gets stuck Open even after cleaning
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You made an assumption that the engine had stopped at the end of the 4th stroke and so the first valve to move was intake. In actuality the engine had stopped at the end of the 2nd stroke and so the exhaust valve opened first when you turned it. When an engine coasts to a stop it doesn’t always stop at the end of an exhaust stroke. It stops when the flywheel runs out of inertia.
Runs amazing. What else matters?
Jungle Explorer it would matter to someone replacing a valve or pushrod because they are different parts.
Dam right the intake is always the aluminium rod , if you have a look at the head the intake port curves down to the intake, don’t be fooled by amateurs who think the know what they are doing they will and can damage the engine , as the aluminium rod have been known to snap at the top ,usually because of lack of oil and or the engine air filters dirty or clogged , and the plastic guide rubs through the rod and shit your engine is destroyed, a great tip keep your oil clean and make you never over fill , just do your services and your problems will be solved , and a side note do the valves cold NOT HOT .
Thanks for communicating. Great information!
Actually if you use the gauge before and after you know much better where your adjustment is also the proper way for your jam bolt is torqued what is the torque specs? But you did pretty good thanks.
Thanks for commenting and adding your input.
Great video.
I always put steel push rods in top and bottom.. otherwise if the aluminum pushrod comes loose ti shoots it inside the motor.. steel can still go in but not as much chance
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Very nice video mister
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it
On these engine I was told the top is exhaust with steel push rod, and intake is the bottom with aluminum push rod
Thank you for this great information Jabshier1980. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
i understand you and my mower run smooth with power- thank you
Make sure push rods are straight first boys number one thing to check for adjusting
Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for the helpful vid! Now I believe I know how ro do it. However I was surprised you didn’t include torque specs for either the 2 torx bolts or the cover bolts. Is “tight” ok? Some other videos include them.
Great suggestion!
The Top rocker is your exhaust bottom is intake ! Look where your down pipe is located, The exhaust valve is right there and your intake runner goes down at an angle to your bottom valve. The intake has a aluminum push rod and the exhaust is steel ! "Top is exhaust botton is intake"
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A lot of good information but the first valve to move when you turn the engine depends completely on where the engine had stopped and which direction you turn the engine.
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Thanks for the video. My engine makes small cut out when running full throttle. I did the valves and rebuilt the carburetor. And changed all service parts and It still cut out. Spark looks fine. Any ideas?
Sorry, I don't know what could be causing that.
The top one is the exhaust, lined-up with the exhaust pipe.
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Find tdc first to to find your in and ex valves.. find tdc by using the screwdriver trick like you showed as well as the point where both in and ex valves are free floating
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Easy : 1) when piston go “in” the intake valve open 2) when piston go “up “ after power the exhaust valve open
Thank you for commenting PATOUH2!
Mike and Madman are correct top valve is exhaust
Thank you for commenting OleSkool Hunter!
Thanks 🎉
You're welcome.
Did it backfire before? My mother-in-laws same mower backfires while trying to crank but want crank. I put a new spark plugs in it and checked the gas filter and replaced the air filter as well. Thanks for any help.
No it did not backfire
It will be the bottom one for intake valve key is aluminum push rod
Thank you for commenting Devon Cole!
Thank you.
You're welcome. Glad to be of service.
Hey man, thanks alot. Works great now!
Thank you for your comment. I make these videos to help people. I am glad it was helpful to you.
Can I ask you a favor? Covid has hit everyone hard, including me. I would really appreciate it if you could help me too. If you found this video helpful, I would sincerely appreciate if you could share it or my channel one time with someone else that it might help. Thanks again.
The jam nuts lock mechanism is called MOLY-LOCK. That has been around for a long time JE.
Good info
@@thejungleexplorer Thanks for helping us all on RUclips with your how to video Sir. Peace vf
Poly Lock.
Im guessing if everything was already loose you would just go slightly past tdc and set your clearance?
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I recently bought a used YT3000 with a 21 hp
the lights do not work and the battery runs down overnight.
Also the battery my tech purchased for the tractor is only 210 CCA.
Is that too small for this engine and could the switch be bad on the tractor or could there be a current drain somewhere.?
Thanks
Hi. Thanks for the question. I do not believe that the 210 CCA battery is the cause of your problem. There may be a couple things going on here. 1. You may have a short in your lighting system that is preventing your lights from working, and that may also be the cause of your battery running down if it is a short to ground. It also may be that your new battery is bad. Never assume that just because something is new, it is not defective. Unfortunately, when it comes to lawn tractor batteries, they are pretty much all garbage these days. I don't think you can find one that offers longer than a 6-month warranty. They will not last a season if you do not keep them on a battery maintainer when they are not in use.
Step number one, I recommend that you take your battery in to get it tested to make sure it is still good. Most auto parts stores like Autozone and O'Rielly's will test your battery for free.
Step number two, Look for a short in the wiring system to your lights. The short may be in the switch itself, so make sure you test this. You can test a switch by using a multimeter to do a continuity test. You can also use a continuity test to test the wires from the switch to the lights to see which one may have a short.
I hope this helps.
Thanks!
Thank you. I really appreciate the help.
The top valve is the exhaust valve the botton valve is the intake
Thanks for commenting
The last video I watched made the same mistake. The EXHAUST valve is always the first to open! The gases from the last fire must be evacuated from the cylinder BEFORE the new fuel mixture can enter. All I need to know is what to set the backlash at. If these guys can't tell intake from exhaust, how can I trust that their set numbers are going to be correct?
Did you see the motor running at the end? Since the making of thos video, this mower has mowed over 100 acres of land. Take a step back and think about that for a second. 😉🧐
@@thejungleexplorer Goes to show that these motors will run even with the wrong settings. Probably not running optimally but running. The video would have been an A+ with the proper identification of the valves. Still decent with the disclaimer that the valves were miss-identified.
The "first "valve to move is dictated by where in the cycle the engine stopped the last time it ran
The top valve is the exhaust. You can tell when you remove the exhaust you can see the valve
Thank you for commenting.
Yes! I did the same! Top is exhaust!!!!
The top valve is exhaust. Aluminum push rod is intake
Thanks
When I adjust valves I leave the feeler gauge in between so it tightens onto the gauge
Great information. Thanks for commenting.
YOU DO A GOOD VIDEO...SUBSCRIBED
He's got his valves mixed up. Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust. After turning the engine, the Intake should move first if it is at the beginning of the cycle. He had his engine in the middle of the cycle (on the Power stroke) then the first valve to move was the exhaust. So he got it wrong. Easy to do if you are not sure where you are in the cycle. Basically if you turn the engine and nothing (with respect to the valves) happens, you are in the compression/power stroke. So.. turn the engine until you don't see any valve move for a good full turn. Then the Intake will be the first to move. So on this engine, it is the bottom valve. Or as others have said, look for the steel or darker push rod (assuming they weren't taken out and put in wrong). So.. the video is good as far as how to adjust them and the adjustment settings but you have to ignore how he tells you the top valve is the intake and use his settings in reverse.
Runs like a top and has mowed a hundred acres since this video. Funny how I got so wrong and it runs so great, isn't it?
Loop
Thanks
Thanks for sharing this video
My pleasure. Glad it helped
Good time to unplug the spark wire , while you have the feeler gauge out
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No Sir. The 4 stroke cycle is intake, compression, power, exhaust, which means the next stroke after exhaust is the next intake. As you rotate the engine clockwise, the first to open and close is the exhaust, followed immediately by the intake. The upper is the exhaust valve with the steel pushrod. The lower is the intake with the aluminum pushrod.
Thank you for this great information Al Molloy. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
My valves look like they're barely opening... Camshaft is new. Backfires through carb. Misses over half throttle. Any ideas?
Boy, that sounds weird. Might be time to take it to an expert.
@@thejungleexplorer I think I have bad piston rings. I feel like I'm losing compression.
just watched another video and they said that the valve with the steel push rod is the top one and could be checked with a magnet, and the alum. push rod is the bottom and as i see it that exhaust pipe mounts close to the top valve that would make it the exhaust
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Bottom is the intake valve....
Plus it's the one with the aluminum push rod....
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Are the lifters hydraulic or solid? Thanks in advance
Solid
I thought the intake valve always had the aliminum push rod and exhaust a steel push rod. If I'm correct it appears this video is incorrect? Can someone please clarify this matter and comment?
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Exhaust is the top valve folks.
Thanks for commenting
I was told to set both to .004 and yes the bottom is the intake
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2 watches ? Nice video tho im gonna try this my self
1 watch. 1 Fitbit
Why will my intake valve, the bottom one not move? The aluminum rod is not bent or cracked. This is a Yard Machine, 13.5 hp Briggs and Stratton,38 inch cut. Thank you
I am sorry, I am not sure what the issue is with your machine.
Most likely a worn lobe on your camshaft
How did you know you were on compression stroke and not exhaust stroke??
When the piston comes up and neither valves are opening or closing. You know it’s compression stroke going into combustion
@@jrenna07 WRONG, COULD BE EITHER STROKE.
I demonstrate this in the video, but there are about a thousand comments on this video telling how to do this as well.
the metal push rod is exaust the aluminum is the intake so r u wrong or me im rusty at it tho ... ???????
Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the support.
Hay ! Your wrong on int. Valve and exh. Just look for aluminum push rod , that's intake. It's on the bottom.
Thank you for this great information B. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
Good video but I think the wrench tightens the jam nut while the torx is the adjuster. I could be wrong but it would explain that the clearance got tighter after tightening the torx.
Thank you for commenting @bluebelieve!
If you set exhaust valves to tight in any engine you will eventually burn out the valve seats. Loose tolerance in exhaust will never have this problem.
Thank you for commenting sky5jump!
Please go look to almost any other video on this job, this guy is learning as he films this. I have been working on engines a log time, just came here to get the clearance, don't trust it so got it on line. Question is: Why is is so Effin hard for you folks to open up the feeler set and actually set the clearance to spec, not like you have to donate a kidney, geez. By the way, I am working on my own Troy Bronco 18.5 hp. This is its 15th year on the turf, and the valves were only .005 over. Just wonder why a lot of folks are having trouble with worn valves. I do burn lead free gasoline. Consider this, you have the plug out, why not put a new one in, and that crushed gasket is only a couple of bucks on line. Some of these sites feature guys with $50000 trucks but are so cheap to pop a gasket and plug, it is like they are working on these in the mountains of Idaho. The engine numbers are on the top edge of the valve covers.
Thank you for commenting
I wondered the same thing about the gasket. Of course, I put a new plug in every Spring.
Top is Exhaust!!!!!!!!
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When you were rotating you were seeing the exhaust stroke and then the intake stroke there would have been a compression stroke between the intake and the exhaust stroke valves moving so you just adjusted the wrong gap for intake and exhaust.
Both adjusted to the same gap
Great video awesome of you taking time to upload and share. I could not get a 10 mm box end wrench on my nuts needed a 5/8. My nuts might be bigger than yours I don’t know.
Thank you for commenting eviloctober! I am so glad the video was helpful.
Yes, they do make changes over the years. My 2014 John Deere D105 has the 17.5 HP Briggs engine, and the valve adjusting nuts are 5/8 inch. Same adjustment procedure, but my specs are .005-.007 for the exhaust, (the top valve), and .003-.005 for the intake, (the lower valve). So I set them at the middle of the range, .006 exhaust and. 004 intake.
Why do most videos say to also rotate exhaust valve to TDC before adjusting it.????
Thank you for commenting
why would the bottom aluminum push rod be on the exhaust side? The exhaust side is the harder worker and requires a non aluminum push-rod. I thing you have them mixed up. Thanks for posting the video because it at least gets people chatting and fixing engines. This engine is a pretty intriguing engine for a lot of reasons, not the least of which it is known for blowing head-gaskets (at least my 18hp Intek is), and the valve seats will blow out if you run on a blown head-gasket for too long. Aluminum head will also get stress cracks from the heat of all of the above. again, thanks for sharing.
It seems there are is more than a few designs of this engine. There seems to be a lot of disagreement about the valve settings.
All I know is that it has been over a year since I made this adjustment and I have mowed over a hundred acres with the mower and it runs like a top. When theory meets fact, facts always wins.
@@thejungleexplorer yes, and the reason you are running great is because it doesn't really matter on these engines as far as the spec lash goes. you can go 4 thousandths on both the intake and exhaust or go by the book or at least be close and these engines will run fine. the only reason exhaust vs. intake will come into question is when putting things back together and trying to figure out where the wacky push rods go...your push rods were already in there so it's no worries in your case.