Killer chiller install 2019 Mustang
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- Опубликовано: 12 дек 2020
- Finally have the install complete. I hope this helps anyone out there wanting to tackle the install themselves. Thanks for watching! Also for more killer chiller content go sub to Coyote carguy
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Badass brother..I like the install, looks clean..
Appreciate it bro!
Gone are the days where you turned off your a/c before a race because of the parasitic loss...times have changed. Yeah, real clean install, I hope it works out well, you’ll have to let us know if you feel it’s worth it. Great job!
Pretty crazy huh lol! Imagine waiting to stage at the track idling with your ac on and not worrying about drip from the drain due to the drag valve. For sure will be doing a update once the weather warms back up. Thanks for watching.
Putting the Tee into the high side line is the biggest hurdle .. i had to have mine welded in ..
the compression fittings did not hold other than that my system is holding just fine now . .
but it was a pain ..
The shop who modified my line gave me some crushed washers that work as gaskets. They stopped my high side and low side lines from leaking around the fittings where they tighten up.
@@primofx2sport finally I done my killer Chiller it really was very complicated install but the guys from the shop do it on 2 days because they have to modify the ac line, but finally it is done, on 5 minutes the supercharger is complete wet
@@americanpower1071 awesome it worked out for you man. I just watched your vid 👍.
my kit was short a T. they shipped it really fast.
houston texas baby
Appreciate the support! Thanks for entering.
13:12 13:13 piece you are referencing was that from chiller killer?
Hey some questions,
If I go for a smaller chiller, how do you decide how much more refrigerant to add?
Some people say you need to mount the chiller so the PAG oil doesnt get trapped inside. Have you considered this and if yes which line does it need to have lowest, to compressor or to evap?
thanks
Exactly how I mount. You dont want that tx valve to be at the lowest point. As long as u do that your good. Not sure on the smaller unit. Only way you will really know is by monitoring the high and low side gauges.
Why txv valve has to be lower?
Thank you for the advice!
@@christos8189 no u don't want it to be at the lowest point needs to be positioned above. Or just mount it as I have in my video.
Hey man, what grill setup is that?? Looks awesome
Thanks man! It's stock grille cut out with mesh. Got a diy vid on my channel go check it out.
@@primofx2sport roger that! Will do :)
So how is your cabin a/c doing after the install? I ask because i like to keep the inside of my car frosty. I like it cold cold.
In this updated killer chiller video I explain all that. Don't forget to subscribe. Thanks for watching.ruclips.net/video/1tWty_gicKU/видео.html
@@primofx2sport i did see where you took cabin air temps but i dont know what the baseline was before the kc system to compare. In the hot sun it puts more demand on the system to keep cool and i hate to be warm, lol.
@@jasonwoody8041 it will put out same in cabin temps as before. The only issue is getting your pressures up during start up. Once you get the pressures up and the refrigerant flowing there are no issues afterwards. That's why I didn't take a temp of in cabin while driving after a while. Because there are no issues during that time.
@@jasonwoody8041 I also don't run a heat exchanger. Maybe with the heat exchanger still present you might have some in cabin temp issue but I can't relate to that being I removed mine.
I have a 2020 with a roush blower. Just installed a ice tank in trunk and my nguage isn't reading much of a drop in iat2. With all that ice and the lines are cold and tank is frosty. Seams like the sensor for the Temps is not reading accurate. Have you had the same problem?
No sir haven't had that issue. What does your iat read before the pull, during the pull, and after the pull?
@@primofx2sport today at idle after diving for 40 minutes I dumped 22lbs of ice in my 7.5 gallon tank and my nguage went from like 110 degrees to 106 and the tank had frost and my 1 inch lines were cold like 56 degrees and temperatures at idle only dropped like 5 or 6 degrees
No sir I haven't. I would try another device just to out rule your ngauge.
The big question is this..... Is it worth running the AC compressor to cool the water temps? Is the draw on engine HP to turn the AC compressor worth the gains from the cooler air temps or is it a wash? We don't want AC running while racing on anything we own. Just thinking here....
The amount of hp loss running the compressor is maybe what 3-5 hp vs the amount of hp loss from the timing backed off due to heat soak can range from 30-50 hp. There's a vid out there showing a dyno with killer chiller off and with it on. I can say this I couldn't stand driving my car in the summer time due to the high iat2 temps vs now the car is night and day difference. Watch my vdi comparison where I compare a rohsj supercharger with killer chiller vs one without and there was at least a 30 degree temp difference in iat2s. Imagine how much timing is backed off from his car to mine. Once it starts hitting 120 is when it starts pulling timing.
As far as when running at the drag strip that's what the drag valve is for. You hit the switch and it blocks refrigerant from entering the evaporator core. So therefor no sweat drips out the drain tube.
@@primofx2sport awesome! Makes sense. I appreciate the info. I was looking at this for my Harrop supercharged Nissan Titan.
I just wasn’t sure about actual gains.
www.teamvenom.racing
@@Teamvenomracing no problem man! Glad I can help.
@@Teamvenomracing ill have a update when the temps get higher as well.
what grille do you have?
It's the stock grille. I cut it out and installed mesh. I have a DIY vid on how I did it.
This makes ac stronger too??!
No the ac will perform the same.
Why did you put the valve in line with the oh Oem AC line? I’m putting one together and it makes more sense to have the T in line with the OEM line then have the drag valve go off the T to the chiller. otherwise what’s the point of even having a valve? In this situation you can’t just turn the AC on even if you’re not racing without turning on and using the chiller, and since that’s the case why even have the valve and extra switch.
Or if you have the valve go off the tea to the chiller onlyYou would be able to use your AC without turning the chiller on this giving you a reason to have an aftermarket switch on the interior of your car
Well for 1 what do you mean turning the chiller on? The chiller runs based off your ac command. If your compressor is engaged the pressures are up therefore your chiller is functioning. As far as the drag valve the valve is solely for blocking refrigerant to the evap core so you don't have condensation drip out the drain tube so you can run the chiller at the track. So the switch is there to switch the drag valve on when at the track or can even be used on the street if you want your iat2 a few more degrees colder. Now the reason I tapped into the low side line that way is because I didn't want to have to cut into multiple lines on the low side and have chances for more ac leaks. So the less amount of cutting the better for me. The system has been running for almost a year now with no issues. Guess it aint stupid if it works 🤷♂️. I've also had plenty of people/shops use this install vid as a guide reference and they too have not had any issues with the way their setup has been installed.
@@primofx2sport makes sense. Ok so the valve is to block ac to the car not to block flow through the chiller. Have you noticed how much cooler the air intake temps are with valve valve shut?
@@Marchautowerks correct it's to block refrigerant from entering the evap core. The drain tube is connected to the evap core and that's where the sweat drips so if you wanna run at the track your able to do so with the chiller still running.
@@Marchautowerks as far as the iat2 temps go check out my videos I got plenty of vids showing my temps during pulls from a roll, at the dragstrip, and on dyno.
@@Marchautowerks sub the channel 👍👍👍.
Any updates? How’s it running ?
Update soon. Actually in process for getting iat2 readings for yall.
Vid dropped!
Did you remove the heat exchanger ?
Yes. Removed heat exchanger.
What were the temps before the killer chiller ?
@@primofx2sport I had read that it makes the temps 45-50 degrees but yours are in the 90s
@@amez5.099 I didn't check my temps before because I was unaware at the time the kit had iat2 sensor. But I have a vid where I compare my temps to my buddies with the same supercharger. Here's the vid.
@@amez5.099 ruclips.net/video/ahvQdGyrPp4/видео.html
does it lower iat’s?
Oh yea ofc! I was racing in summer heat with no issues iat2 would never see over 125.
that looks like a Total Pain in the ass to install, I may just do a Ice tank
It's really not if prepared for install. I will say I wish I came across this vid when installing lol. Could been done that day.
How much R134 did you have to put in to compensate for the added kit?
I wanna say bout 10 oz over factory. I think I did 900 grams. When you fill it monitor your guages. Your gauges will tell you everything. But your going to have to get the pressures going.
@@primofx2sport i converted to r134 and I added 6 oz more than factory...
@@emmanuela2898 idk bout the conversion part but ok, so you having a issue? What are your gauges reading and filling?
@@primofx2sport no issues and it works... My pressures are solid low side 35 psi based off ambient temp, high side is 185 psi
@@emmanuela2898 sounds about right. Your good to go then. If you feel the cabin temps fluctuate after 10 mins of driving then might need to check level or check for leak.
No need to pull the pop clips on the plastic radiator cover off. They’ll just break.
Did you use a trim tool? None of mine broke.
@@primofx2sport yep. Same tool you used. Don’t need to pull them all the way out. They just pop up and will release the cover.