I remember being at a knife show and talking to this one guy about how cool Johnnie Stout's knives are. He scoffed because Johnnie Stout outsources his knives to somebody else to do the engraving. I thought that was silly because why is a knife made by a single person superior to a collaborative knife made by two people? I've also heard knife makers who use stock removal scoff at the term "blade smith" because they're blacksmiths, not knife makers, which I thought was silly. And then there's the people who forge their knives and look down their noses at people who use stock removal. This all seems petty and stupid to me. It's like people who turn their noses up at at certain delicious foods because they're not "authentic Mexican" or "authentic Chinese" or whatever. I don't care whether it's authentic; I care whether it's good. I just want to enjoy my food.
Yeah thats pretty weird and petty, even when I hand forge a knife I still grind it on the belt grinder meaning theres elements of both hand forging and stock removal.
Here here! As the top guy said, the issue at hand should be quality, and not as much on how you got there. An example would be that it could be difficult to make a bigger knife using stock removal if you don't have big enough blade stock to begin with. I have been running into that issue with 14c28n, as the max height for the billets I have been able to find is 2". I was thinking of doing a chefs knife but having it be just a little bit over 2" at about 2.5". Another thing some other makers do and that I plan to do is exporting it out to Peters or Jared Todd for heat treating. In the case of not being able to get big enough billets, it might necessitate needing to forge it to shape. The objective is to make the knife and ensure high quality and consistency, and repeatability if it is not a one off. I think people really need to consider the economics of it, as we are living in a society and time where we must learn to be more efficient and cost effective with our time and resources or not earn enough to sustain a business and a family. Just because one does stock removal and CNC does not mean it is a crappy knife and vice versa for a forged knife, and on the flip side, it does not mean it is a good or even okay knife. The issue is whether or not a knife maker made a good tool that is dependable for the tasks that it will be required to perform. I think Walter Sorrels has been illustrating that point beautifully and given a good more realistic and balanced view on the matter. Just some thoughts. Sincerely, JS
The “forging is superior to stock removal” people kill me. It’s not ancient times when steel needed compaction and refinement with the hammer. The steel we have now is superior to anything they had and it all boils down to a proper heat treatment and edge geometry.
At the end of the video I knew you were about to mention the Heat Treating Process. I've quoted the line from your website to dozens of people when discussing knife steels, and usually their eyes just glaze over but a few have listened. Great video.
@@daveh777 If there are others you wanted to do, could send the to Peters heat treatment, or Jared Todd until you are able to get confident doing it yourself. Just a thought. Sincerely, JS
When you said what's the best knife maker? It made me think of Phil Robertson when asked, what's the best shotgun? He replied "the one where you pull the trigger and it goes bang !"
Love your points about knife steels, Walter. I bought a 6 inch camp knife from Boker years ago that is made from D2, it holds an edge incredibly well, but is an absolute bear to sharpen. I mostly work with 5160 and 52100 myself, but that's mostly because they are extremely available in my line of work as a heavy duty diesel mechanic. I think that's really the answer to that question for beginning makers. The best steel is what you can get your hands on, start making, and get comfortable using.
Here’s one that’s really annoying. “Forging vs stock removal.” Do whatever works for you. Here’s another one, freehand grinding or using jigs. I had a guy at a show that was kinda acting like he was a better maker than me cause he didn’t use jigs but after looking at his work I immediately disregarded his comments lol. I’ll stick to the methods that get me the best results.
I’ve been working with metal for 30 years. I use a jig for everything, because I want to ensure precision. Free hand grinding is impressive, but completely unnecessary imo.
@@razoreater616 definitely. I’m not sure why people have to act like that. If jigs get me a superior product I’m gonna use em, even if someone doesn’t like that for whatever reason.
Great video as usual. W regard to titanium, there's a couple of makers using very specific grades, forging and heat treatment techniques to make excellent blades from titanium. Mad Science Forge is a great example and Mareko Maumasi has a great interview with that dude on his podcast Artisans of Steel. Generally speaking though Walter you're entirely correct on the limitations of Ti as a blade material.
I do stock removal primarily because I only work in stainless, the stainless' I use are the "simple" HT (single heat, no step, plate quench then cryo with Dry ice or LN2) cycle ones (Nitro-V, 12C27, 14C28N) because my home made HT oven doesnt heat fast enough for temperature steps and I also like low maintenance knives and the strength, toughness and edge retention of these steels are more than I am looking for. I dont forge any more due to nerve problems in my neck and shoulders. I mostly freehand grind as many of the designs I use are not a straight flat bevel, especially hollow grinding and I have found freehand allows you to adjust on the fly. I still use jigs for small flat grinds. I also wet grind after HT with a water mist spray. I do it this way because it works for me, it may not work for you. Do what works for you and just enjoy it.
I'm surprised the damascus/patterned steel question wasn't #1 on your list! That foolishness just wears me out. Good points on "switchblades," and I've found that even though they're illegal in my State it's quite possible to obtain them from reputable dealers online. Often they're called "assisted opening" but hey, you push a button and they open. Frankly, my CRKT thumb stud model opens at least as fast, so the laws are monuments to reactive legislative ignorance.
I was taught the best steel was based on your sharpening skill. A dull knife is a dangerous knife so if you can’t put a good edge back on it after you use it then it’s not for you. When I was a kid I couldn’t sharpen a buck 110. Their steel being harder than woodpecker lips! I just wasn’t attentive enough with my pressure or constant enough with my angle. But my old USA old timers, I could get a passable edge on those so that’s what I was stuck with. Until I got more effective at sharpening. With time has happened but as my Papaw used to say “even a blind hog finds an acorn every now and then”.
Not a question, but maybe at least a dumb idea: Could You design a knife that is the most tedious (pain in the backside) to make? I think that would be a very interesting thought process to follow. What I mean are details like a bolster, not engraving and inlaying the thing for 1.000 hours. A second part could be a very similar knife, but optimised for easy manufacturing.
No, but I have tried to make an osmium aluminum. Basically, you freeze the osmium. Explode, it. Wash it and then sprinkle over the top of the aluminum and bake it in. I am still trying to figure out how to get it into a powdered Conditions so that the osmium is better distributed inside of the aluminum. If I can get that one down, then it will be osmium stainless steel next.
Great discussion! I love the Titanium kids. They confuse Titanium with Mythril! I have a Titanium dive knife, it's impervious to corrosion, but can't hold an edge for anything!
On the best knife argument its also frustrating when a knife user, ie someone like a firefighter or military operator or whatever, says they use X knife because it stands up/has feature Y/has a good warranty. Then some knucklehead takes that as final word gospel truth that any other knife is basically a prop. Its well meaning, they are trying to take info from an informed source but one opinion from a heavy user is not a survey of the field and one consumers opinion isnt the same as being knwledgable.
LOL I am literally fidgeting with a cheap switch blade as you brought them up. LOL!!! In Nevada you can now legally carry one as long as its not concealed... aka put it in a belt holster thing or get one with a pocket clip and its fine.
Just for kicks, now hear me out, you should make the most outlandish gas-station knife your imagination can come up with. I mean swirls, curves, put a dragon on the hilt, you name it. Make sure to use the worst quality stainless grade you can find, too. Oh, also, about the never getting into a knife fight thing. I can hear the entirety of the UK sigh in frustration from here.
The part about titanium blades was interesting. I never new that it had poor edge retention. There is a timascus, titanium Damascus, that I recently learned about. Have you ever worked with it? How does its edge retention hold up? Thanks for your educational videos.
I’m a bit of a spyderco fanboy but there are plenty of other great manufacturers out there and Efingrow has amazing knives in the $20-$50 range if you want a camp knife.
I'm going to have to disagree. I went on a kick and brought several eafengrows several years back and the steel was very noticeably soft. Same goes for ganzo. Just my experience. It's even possible they fixed their HT protocol since then but I would avoid when there are so many other decent budget options like cold steel, Ontario, kershaw, etc
Bill Ruger designed a centrifugal forge specifically for casting titanium, with the idea of casting gun parts. That didn't really work out as well as he had hoped, so he tried using it for a variety of other products, including hammers, cat's paws, and a titanium diver's knife/tool. Some products were fairly successful, and the ones with Ruger's name are desired novelties for serious Ruger collectors. The diver's knife didn't turn out so great, as consumers didn't see them as being worth the price that had to be charged for them. The most successful product Ruger Investment Casting manufactured turned out to be titanium golf clubs. I think they originally made them for sale in Japan, but then Calloway started branding them for the US market. I think Ruger sold their machinery to a golf club company, maybe Calloway, many years ago. I only know about any of this because I met a beautiful young woman while we were both working for Ruger in Prescott, Arizona back in the early '90s, and today happens to be our 32nd wedding anniversary.
Regarding the last one as you said Walter, the issue at hand should be quality, and not as much on how you got there. An example would be that it could be difficult to make a bigger knife using stock removal if you don't have big enough blade stock to begin with. I have been running into that issue with 14c28n, as the max height for the billets I have been able to find is 2". I was thinking of doing a chefs knife but having it be just a little bit over 2" at about 2.5" for the heel heighth. Another thing some other makers do and that I plan to do is exporting it out to Peters or Jared Todd for heat treating because I do not have the experience, equipment, or money to purchase said equipment and do as good a job as I would want with my current skills. In the case of not being able to get big enough billets, it might necessitate needing to forge it to shape which just illistrates the point that certain designs and blade styles may need a different approach to make in order to get the desired and result. The objective is to make the knife and ensure high quality and consistency, and repeatability if it is not a one off. I think people really need to consider the economics of it as well, as we are living in a society and time where we must learn to be more efficient and cost effective with our time and resources or not earn enough to sustain a business and a family and the other random expenses that come up. Just because one does stock removal and CNC does not mean it is a crappy knife and vice versa for a forged knife, and on the flip side, it does not mean it is a good or even okay knife. The question should be in debate regarding these things is whether or not a knife maker made a good tool that is dependable for the tasks that it will be required to perform. I think you have been illustrating that point beautifully and giving a good more realistic and balanced view on the matter. When the question is framed that way, it has a fairly simple answer as then it is a casw by case basis. I have noticed that there seems to be a lot of pride for some of these people in doing it a particular way, and I would dare say even some ignorance and not looking at things with a holistic and realistic view. Just some thoughts. Sincerely, JS
Gents, a ?: can i re-heat treat my knife at home? I purchased a 1095 that feels soft. Can I remove the scales and reheat at 420-450 on a 2hr split cycle with an ambient cool down in between and a 24hr cure?
What you're describing is tempering and is designed to soften the steel after being hardened. To make the knife hard, you will have to heat and quench at a much higher temperature, around 1500 F
12:10 "but really, who's gonna get into a knife fight?" My brother, there's an entire country called The United Kingdom where the amount of daily knife-related criminality is absurd, as firearms are uncommon in Europe
Just to keep in line with the subject matter, here is a"Dumb Question " What oil is used to quench knives? Does the answer change with different steels?
Parks 50 is one of the best all-around oils to quench most steels that knife makers use to quench their high carbon blades with. It works with all the 10-series steels as well as 5160, 52100, L6, W2, W1, etc. But you can use peanut oil to quench most of these knives, too. Parks 50 just works a little better. With 5160, almost any oil will work.
@@zacharykelly7434 This. Larrin Thomas has a great video on this question. It really does matter, the wrong oil could be the difference between getting your knife properly hardened and not.
My favorite is which knife is best to fight a bear with? My answer is always either use your knife to make a spear and pray a lot, or just give up and accept death lol
Yep like this guy and his Tactix Armory he is just riding what ever wave is rolling in at the time. He is buying knife blanks in bulk wrapping paracord on them calling them Tactical and selling them to the Tactical dummies for $200.00-$300.00! Something they could probably make for themself for $50.00 or less! Not saying he can't make knifes but I don't put much stock in someone's bosting a bragging when their knife snaps in half on Forged in Fire for all to see!
@user-sq5zg3ys5k don't be a fool. Did you see what type of steel billet he had to make compared to everyone else's? Do you understand that sort of thing? Do you realize he was only allowed to do part of the heat treating (he couldn't do the tempering himself)? To see keyboard warriors criticize a guy like Walter Sorrells just tells you all you need to know about the world right now.
A major question for me ISIS my knife going to break in subzero temperatures? Because, yes, I do pull out my knife. And I dig it into ice and snow? That is because that is where I live, so I do not carry Kershaw blades. When I am going outside in my neighborhood Point in fact, in Japan. You do not dip your finger in the cooling solution. To find out what temperature it is, you'll get fired over that if you're lucky, but you can ask what temperature it is most likely you're going to get told none of your business you're not a master
Lies. The BEST steel comes from the leaf springs of a 79 Camaro. Has to be a Z-28 with T-Tops, however.
I remember being at a knife show and talking to this one guy about how cool Johnnie Stout's knives are. He scoffed because Johnnie Stout outsources his knives to somebody else to do the engraving. I thought that was silly because why is a knife made by a single person superior to a collaborative knife made by two people? I've also heard knife makers who use stock removal scoff at the term "blade smith" because they're blacksmiths, not knife makers, which I thought was silly. And then there's the people who forge their knives and look down their noses at people who use stock removal. This all seems petty and stupid to me. It's like people who turn their noses up at at certain delicious foods because they're not "authentic Mexican" or "authentic Chinese" or whatever. I don't care whether it's authentic; I care whether it's good. I just want to enjoy my food.
Yeah thats pretty weird and petty, even when I hand forge a knife I still grind it on the belt grinder meaning theres elements of both hand forging and stock removal.
Yeah I can’t stand the forging vs stock removal thing.
Here here! As the top guy said, the issue at hand should be quality, and not as much on how you got there. An example would be that it could be difficult to make a bigger knife using stock removal if you don't have big enough blade stock to begin with. I have been running into that issue with 14c28n, as the max height for the billets I have been able to find is 2". I was thinking of doing a chefs knife but having it be just a little bit over 2" at about 2.5". Another thing some other makers do and that I plan to do is exporting it out to Peters or Jared Todd for heat treating. In the case of not being able to get big enough billets, it might necessitate needing to forge it to shape. The objective is to make the knife and ensure high quality and consistency, and repeatability if it is not a one off. I think people really need to consider the economics of it, as we are living in a society and time where we must learn to be more efficient and cost effective with our time and resources or not earn enough to sustain a business and a family. Just because one does stock removal and CNC does not mean it is a crappy knife and vice versa for a forged knife, and on the flip side, it does not mean it is a good or even okay knife. The issue is whether or not a knife maker made a good tool that is dependable for the tasks that it will be required to perform. I think Walter Sorrels has been illustrating that point beautifully and given a good more realistic and balanced view on the matter.
Just some thoughts.
Sincerely,
JS
The “forging is superior to stock removal” people kill me. It’s not ancient times when steel needed compaction and refinement with the hammer. The steel we have now is superior to anything they had and it all boils down to a proper heat treatment and edge geometry.
At the end of the video I knew you were about to mention the Heat Treating Process. I've quoted the line from your website to dozens of people when discussing knife steels, and usually their eyes just glaze over but a few have listened. Great video.
For me the best steels for knives are the ones I know I can confidently heat treat.
@@daveh777 If there are others you wanted to do, could send the to Peters heat treatment, or Jared Todd until you are able to get confident doing it yourself. Just a thought.
Sincerely,
JS
When you said what's the best knife maker? It made me think of Phil Robertson when asked, what's the best shotgun? He replied "the one where you pull the trigger and it goes bang !"
Love your points about knife steels, Walter. I bought a 6 inch camp knife from Boker years ago that is made from D2, it holds an edge incredibly well, but is an absolute bear to sharpen. I mostly work with 5160 and 52100 myself, but that's mostly because they are extremely available in my line of work as a heavy duty diesel mechanic. I think that's really the answer to that question for beginning makers. The best steel is what you can get your hands on, start making, and get comfortable using.
Here’s one that’s really annoying. “Forging vs stock removal.”
Do whatever works for you. Here’s another one, freehand grinding or using jigs. I had a guy at a show that was kinda acting like he was a better maker than me cause he didn’t use jigs but after looking at his work I immediately disregarded his comments lol. I’ll stick to the methods that get me the best results.
I’ve been working with metal for 30 years. I use a jig for everything, because I want to ensure precision. Free hand grinding is impressive, but completely unnecessary imo.
@@razoreater616 definitely. I’m not sure why people have to act like that. If jigs get me a superior product I’m gonna use em, even if someone doesn’t like that for whatever reason.
I like free handing and I appreciate when someone is skilled at it. I'm also lazy and don't want to fuss with a jig. Now who's superior? lol
@@BrothersCinco if you can get great grinds freehand then good on you. But like I said, I’m gonna stick to what gets me the best results.
Absolutely there's no doubt that a jig will yield a better result. Like I said I just don't have the patience yet to get into it
Great video as usual. W regard to titanium, there's a couple of makers using very specific grades, forging and heat treatment techniques to make excellent blades from titanium. Mad Science Forge is a great example and Mareko Maumasi has a great interview with that dude on his podcast Artisans of Steel. Generally speaking though Walter you're entirely correct on the limitations of Ti as a blade material.
I do stock removal primarily because I only work in stainless, the stainless' I use are the "simple" HT (single heat, no step, plate quench then cryo with Dry ice or LN2) cycle ones (Nitro-V, 12C27, 14C28N) because my home made HT oven doesnt heat fast enough for temperature steps and I also like low maintenance knives and the strength, toughness and edge retention of these steels are more than I am looking for. I dont forge any more due to nerve problems in my neck and shoulders. I mostly freehand grind as many of the designs I use are not a straight flat bevel, especially hollow grinding and I have found freehand allows you to adjust on the fly. I still use jigs for small flat grinds. I also wet grind after HT with a water mist spray. I do it this way because it works for me, it may not work for you. Do what works for you and just enjoy it.
I'm surprised the damascus/patterned steel question wasn't #1 on your list! That foolishness just wears me out. Good points on "switchblades," and I've found that even though they're illegal in my State it's quite possible to obtain them from reputable dealers online. Often they're called "assisted opening" but hey, you push a button and they open. Frankly, my CRKT thumb stud model opens at least as fast, so the laws are monuments to reactive legislative ignorance.
I was taught the best steel was based on your sharpening skill. A dull knife is a dangerous knife so if you can’t put a good edge back on it after you use it then it’s not for you. When I was a kid I couldn’t sharpen a buck 110. Their steel being harder than woodpecker lips! I just wasn’t attentive enough with my pressure or constant enough with my angle. But my old USA old timers, I could get a passable edge on those so that’s what I was stuck with. Until I got more effective at sharpening. With time has happened but as my Papaw used to say “even a blind hog finds an acorn every now and then”.
Yo Wal. Great video mate. Love your point of view as usual.
A question I get sometimes is, "Can you make me a knife out of my old cast iron frying pan?"
There are no dumb questions, there are just dumb people. :)
Underrated comment.
I have one. Do lawnmower blades make good knives? I look forward to reading the answers.
Not a question, but maybe at least a dumb idea:
Could You design a knife that is the most tedious (pain in the backside) to make? I think that would be a very interesting thought process to follow. What I mean are details like a bolster, not engraving and inlaying the thing for 1.000 hours.
A second part could be a very similar knife, but optimised for easy manufacturing.
I make knives out of "Unobtanium". It's hard to get though.
No, but I have tried to make an osmium aluminum. Basically, you freeze the osmium. Explode, it. Wash it and then sprinkle over the top of the aluminum and bake it in.
I am still trying to figure out how to get it into a powdered Conditions so that the osmium is better distributed inside of the aluminum. If I can get that one down, then it will be osmium stainless steel next.
I agree with that if you're afraid of asking a dumb question. You're also afraid of learning
Great discussion! I love the Titanium kids. They confuse Titanium with Mythril! I have a Titanium dive knife, it's impervious to corrosion, but can't hold an edge for anything!
On the best knife argument its also frustrating when a knife user, ie someone like a firefighter or military operator or whatever, says they use X knife because it stands up/has feature Y/has a good warranty.
Then some knucklehead takes that as final word gospel truth that any other knife is basically a prop.
Its well meaning, they are trying to take info from an informed source but one opinion from a heavy user is not a survey of the field and one consumers opinion isnt the same as being knwledgable.
LOL I am literally fidgeting with a cheap switch blade as you brought them up. LOL!!! In Nevada you can now legally carry one as long as its not concealed... aka put it in a belt holster thing or get one with a pocket clip and its fine.
All I can say is Well Said Walter. To many stupid questions out there. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Just for kicks, now hear me out, you should make the most outlandish gas-station knife your imagination can come up with. I mean swirls, curves, put a dragon on the hilt, you name it. Make sure to use the worst quality stainless grade you can find, too.
Oh, also, about the never getting into a knife fight thing. I can hear the entirety of the UK sigh in frustration from here.
Thats a great Video. Nice done.
The part about titanium blades was interesting. I never new that it had poor edge retention. There is a timascus, titanium Damascus, that I recently learned about. Have you ever worked with it? How does its edge retention hold up? Thanks for your educational videos.
Here's a dumb question. Which is a better knife, demascus, or mono-steel? I feel like you've answered that one in several ways already.
I’m a bit of a spyderco fanboy but there are plenty of other great manufacturers out there and Efingrow has amazing knives in the $20-$50 range if you want a camp knife.
I'm going to have to disagree. I went on a kick and brought several eafengrows several years back and the steel was very noticeably soft. Same goes for ganzo. Just my experience. It's even possible they fixed their HT protocol since then but I would avoid when there are so many other decent budget options like cold steel, Ontario, kershaw, etc
@@BrothersCinco I have a couple. One in D2 that is about 1/4” thick. It holds up like D2 should and keeps an edge.
Switchblades are legal in Illinois. I can open my spyderco just as fast as I can open my switchblade 🤷♂️
Bill Ruger designed a centrifugal forge specifically for casting titanium, with the idea of casting gun parts. That didn't really work out as well as he had hoped, so he tried using it for a variety of other products, including hammers, cat's paws, and a titanium diver's knife/tool. Some products were fairly successful, and the ones with Ruger's name are desired novelties for serious Ruger collectors. The diver's knife didn't turn out so great, as consumers didn't see them as being worth the price that had to be charged for them. The most successful product Ruger Investment Casting manufactured turned out to be titanium golf clubs. I think they originally made them for sale in Japan, but then Calloway started branding them for the US market. I think Ruger sold their machinery to a golf club company, maybe Calloway, many years ago. I only know about any of this because I met a beautiful young woman while we were both working for Ruger in Prescott, Arizona back in the early '90s, and today happens to be our 32nd wedding anniversary.
I had to lol when you got to the damascus question!
A few years ago it was like dropping a bomb. 😂😂😂
The best Damascus is the one that isn't just printed on with cruddy paint.
@@jordankurth8518or laser engraved.
Regarding the last one as you said Walter, the issue at hand should be quality, and not as much on how you got there. An example would be that it could be difficult to make a bigger knife using stock removal if you don't have big enough blade stock to begin with. I have been running into that issue with 14c28n, as the max height for the billets I have been able to find is 2". I was thinking of doing a chefs knife but having it be just a little bit over 2" at about 2.5" for the heel heighth. Another thing some other makers do and that I plan to do is exporting it out to Peters or Jared Todd for heat treating because I do not have the experience, equipment, or money to purchase said equipment and do as good a job as I would want with my current skills. In the case of not being able to get big enough billets, it might necessitate needing to forge it to shape which just illistrates the point that certain designs and blade styles may need a different approach to make in order to get the desired and result. The objective is to make the knife and ensure high quality and consistency, and repeatability if it is not a one off. I think people really need to consider the economics of it as well, as we are living in a society and time where we must learn to be more efficient and cost effective with our time and resources or not earn enough to sustain a business and a family and the other random expenses that come up. Just because one does stock removal and CNC does not mean it is a crappy knife and vice versa for a forged knife, and on the flip side, it does not mean it is a good or even okay knife. The question should be in debate regarding these things is whether or not a knife maker made a good tool that is dependable for the tasks that it will be required to perform. I think you have been illustrating that point beautifully and giving a good more realistic and balanced view on the matter. When the question is framed that way, it has a fairly simple answer as then it is a casw by case basis. I have noticed that there seems to be a lot of pride for some of these people in doing it a particular way, and I would dare say even some ignorance and not looking at things with a holistic and realistic view.
Just some thoughts.
Sincerely,
JS
Gents, a ?: can i re-heat treat my knife at home? I purchased a 1095 that feels soft. Can I remove the scales and reheat at 420-450 on a 2hr split cycle with an ambient cool down in between and a 24hr cure?
What you're describing is tempering and is designed to soften the steel after being hardened. To make the knife hard, you will have to heat and quench at a much higher temperature, around 1500 F
@carsemonkey1 thank you very much for your reply.
12:10 "but really, who's gonna get into a knife fight?"
My brother, there's an entire country called The United Kingdom where the amount of daily knife-related criminality is absurd, as firearms are uncommon in Europe
“What is the best knife?”
Whichever one you want to buy from me and if you’ve got one already, you probably need three.
😂😂😂
"Thats not real damascus!"
FFS...😤😤
haha Nordic man that almost killed me 😆Nordic Edge is bjorns new name creative man was the old name, great guy
Fun video Walter.
So I think the only time #2 matters is when you are talking about the crucible derivative blades that came out of Syria
Which is better, forged or stock removal? DUH!
You where my 1st sub on RUclips.
Just to keep in line with the subject matter, here is a"Dumb Question " What oil is used to quench knives? Does the answer change with different steels?
Yes
Parks 50 is one of the best all-around oils to quench most steels that knife makers use to quench their high carbon blades with. It works with all the 10-series steels as well as 5160, 52100, L6, W2, W1, etc. But you can use peanut oil to quench most of these knives, too. Parks 50 just works a little better. With 5160, almost any oil will work.
Knife steel nerds gets into the nitty gritty on it but it does matter
@@zacharykelly7434 This. Larrin Thomas has a great video on this question. It really does matter, the wrong oil could be the difference between getting your knife properly hardened and not.
😂..looking for Edward Grinderhands to make some "true handmade knives "
Can't own an automatic knife or a balisong in the UK -- to my everlasting disappointment. I swear I only want either because I can't have them.
Good video
hur hur, can a katana cut through a car?? hur hur
My favorite is which knife is best to fight a bear with? My answer is always either use your knife to make a spear and pray a lot, or just give up and accept death lol
Any knife that shoots at least .44 magnum!
@@eizzle78 I’m more a 10mm fan lol
@@P226nutthat works too! Always remember, don’t bring a knife to a bear fight 😂
Is DaMaScUs sTeEL BettEr?
There isn't such a thing like stupid questions! there are just stupid answers. 😎
👍👍👍👍👍
I think a knife made in a small shop and small runs can be considered a HAND MADE KNIFE.
Yep like this guy and his Tactix Armory he is just riding what ever wave is rolling in at the time. He is buying knife blanks in bulk wrapping paracord on them calling them Tactical and selling them to the Tactical dummies for $200.00-$300.00! Something they could probably make for themself for $50.00 or less! Not saying he can't make knifes but I don't put much stock in someone's bosting a bragging when their knife snaps in half on Forged in Fire for all to see!
@user-sq5zg3ys5k don't be a fool. Did you see what type of steel billet he had to make compared to everyone else's? Do you understand that sort of thing? Do you realize he was only allowed to do part of the heat treating (he couldn't do the tempering himself)?
To see keyboard warriors criticize a guy like Walter Sorrells just tells you all you need to know about the world right now.
@@monkpato Walter is a great example of a shop making hand crafted knives. For me its all about enjoying myself and learning new stuff.
@@MichaelBurke-f2p bitter
The best Knife steel is 80CrV2, Unless......
A major question for me ISIS my knife going to break in subzero temperatures? Because, yes, I do pull out my knife. And I dig it into ice and snow? That is because that is where I live, so I do not carry Kershaw blades.
When I am going outside in my neighborhood
Point in fact, in Japan. You do not dip your finger in the cooling solution. To find out what temperature it is, you'll get fired over that if you're lucky, but you can ask what temperature it is most likely you're going to get told none of your business you're not a master
I got one Walter, What is the best blade length?