Just purchased a Wayne sump pump. I see you didn't drill a weep hole. Is there one in your check valve? Is a weep hole required/advised to put on the discharge pipe? Lastly, should the check valve be installed just above the pump discharge, or would it be okay if it was installed a few feet above the discharge (just above the sump basin cover)?
You could add a pvc valve going upwards so in the future if you need to perform any maintenance you dont have to worry about water coming down from the pipes when you disconnect everything
Bought this Wayne WSS30VN over a year ago but didn't install it until today. The big and immediately problem is that the main pump just keeps running when float already reached the bottom. I even manually push the float level all the way up and down but the main pump just won't stop until unplugging the power. Don't know what to do now. The secondary pump works well.
In your repair, you chose to replace the original 45 degree elbows w/ 90 degree elbows. It's my understanding that the pump needs to work harder to overcome the increased resistance of the 90 degree bends (as compared w/ 45' bends.) Please comment.
actually 90s work better and 45s the water shoots and its the fitting and its increasing harder for the water to move quick and wears out the fitting fast
@@tylerpickersgill How could 90s possibly be more efficient than 45s? It makes no sense, given that 45s are more close to a straight pipe than 90s. Your post sounds only vaguely grammatically correct, so I'm guessing you didn't actually think it through.
You should never have a check valve installed directly onto the pump. The check valve should be above the sump pit. A 3/16” weep hole (or air relief hole) should be drilled in the PVC discharge pipe, even with the top of the pump. This weep hole will help to prevent an airlock. Without a weep hole, an airlock could occur, causing the pump to run but not actually pump. It’s best to drill the 3/16” hole upward at a 45 degree angle, so that the spray will go downward into the pit. The weep hole should be cleaned/cleared periodically. This is in all of Zoeller’s installation manuals and Zoeller also has RUclips videos about it.
The Wayne sump pumps are top suction designed pumps. This design eliminates the need for a weep hole as it naturally allows the air to escape preventing an airlock. As to the check valve, we do recommend placing it as close to the pump as possible. This will limit the amount of backflow when the pump stops. However, one placed just above the basin cover should not add too much additional flow back into the pit.
I bought WSS30Vn pump and installed it with a new battery. After a year the power failure red light came on, alarm sounds nonstop and the backup pump doesn't work. Any ideas?
Hello, nice video thanks. Quick question re: power source; is it best for a regular power outlet or better with a circuit breaker outlet like the one you’ve used in your video?
Hey Sam I know this is a late response but NEC code requires GFCI outlets near any potential source of water (garage, basement, bathroom, wash room etc). That outlet most likely also is being fed from a circuit with a breaker as breaker panels are also a NEC requirement. Hope this helps.
Question- my mother has a metal 1 1/4 discharge pipe that her 1/3hp pump goes into. We are replacing the pump with a 1/2hp pump. Can the new 1/2hp pump with 1 1/2” pvc connect to the old 1 11/4” metal pipe or is that to much pressure going from 1 1/2 down to 1 1/4?
It will be fine. Inhibits volume slightly and slightly more pressure. They are not positive displacements pumps; won't hurt choking the discharge. If fully choked too long, pump can heat up.
I have around 5 foot vert. from pump to elbow where it goes hora. & out of house. I have a bad clunk after pump is shut off. not from valve it is from water knock after quiet valve is shut off. would it help is I set up like yours with a 2 foot vert. then go horz. to wall then back vert. to outlet? I was wandering if this may cause less water to hit valve after pump is shut off &valve is closed?
Personally, I like to hear my pump pipe knocking. If it's silent, I don't know how many times the pump is cycling or if it's even working in the basement. If I hear the pump piping knock at the end of a pump cycle, I know it's working.
Personally, I like to hear the mild piping knocking a bit a the end of a pump out cycle. I know the pump is working and how often it's cycling. Mine's in my basement. I don't spend a lot of time down there; I'm upstairs. If it's raining hard enough for my gutters to overflow, I wanna hear that mild sound of a pipe knocking at cycle's end. I don't want to go up & down the basement stairs several times during a torrent, just to be sure the pump is working; that's why I don't want it to be silent. It's like a car's engine; you know how yours is supposed to sound & you know when something is amiss that needs attention.
The float/switch design is terrible on these pumps! I just purchased a Wayne sump w/battery back up to replace an old problem free Zoeller. Not only can the float simply pop off the rod that slides through it, the rod which attaches to the switch lever can slide out when the water rises enough to raise to the float to the point where the switch is activated, this leaves the float and rod floating around in the pit. The float/rod also loosely tangles from the switch lever so it wobbles all over the place, back and forth, as the water rises which could lead to getting hung up on something. These are MAJOR design flaws that could render the pump inoperable when it is needed most. Will be sending it back.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the informative video. If small stones and sediment are a constant concern, why not install an effluent pump instead of a sump pump?
Just purchased a Wayne sump pump. I see you didn't drill a weep hole. Is there one in your check valve? Is a weep hole required/advised to put on the discharge pipe? Lastly, should the check valve be installed just above the pump discharge, or would it be okay if it was installed a few feet above the discharge (just above the sump basin cover)?
For the rubber coupling, do the two pipes have to be touching? Or should there be space between them?
Excellent explanation 👌 👏 👍 😀 🤣
You could add a pvc valve going upwards so in the future if you need to perform any maintenance you dont have to worry about water coming down from the pipes when you disconnect everything
Bought this Wayne WSS30VN over a year ago but didn't install it until today. The big and immediately problem is that the main pump just keeps running when float already reached the bottom. I even manually push the float level all the way up and down but the main pump just won't stop until unplugging the power. Don't know what to do now. The secondary pump works well.
Nice presentation. Thanks
...really a great video... thanks
In your repair, you chose to replace the original 45 degree elbows w/ 90 degree elbows. It's my understanding that the pump needs to work harder to overcome the increased resistance of the 90 degree bends (as compared w/ 45' bends.) Please comment.
actually 90s work better and 45s the water shoots and its the fitting and its increasing harder for the water to move quick and wears out the fitting fast
super8guy yes it’s true it’s gonna be friction head loss
@@tylerpickersgill How could 90s possibly be more efficient than 45s? It makes no sense, given that 45s are more close to a straight pipe than 90s. Your post sounds only vaguely grammatically correct, so I'm guessing you didn't actually think it through.
i have 7 90 degree elbows in mine
You should never have a check valve installed directly onto the pump. The check valve should be above the sump pit. A 3/16” weep hole (or air relief hole) should be drilled in the PVC discharge pipe, even with the top of the pump. This weep hole will help to prevent an airlock. Without a weep hole, an airlock could occur, causing the pump to run but not actually pump. It’s best to drill the 3/16” hole upward at a 45 degree angle, so that the spray will go downward into the pit. The weep hole should be cleaned/cleared periodically. This is in all of Zoeller’s installation manuals and Zoeller also has RUclips videos about it.
Nice video. Are sump pumps allowed to be plugged into GFCI??
The Wayne sump pumps are top suction designed pumps. This design eliminates the need for a weep hole as it naturally allows the air to escape preventing an airlock.
As to the check valve, we do recommend placing it as close to the pump as possible. This will limit the amount of backflow when the pump stops. However, one placed just above the basin cover should not add too much additional flow back into the pit.
whats the piece you used to connect the check valve to the pump...it looks threaded
Is it necessary to have a cover on the top of the pit?
What if there is water in the basin when you install it? I can't get my basin drained it continues to fill up from the high water table.
I bought WSS30Vn pump and installed it with a new battery. After a year the power failure red light came on, alarm sounds nonstop and the backup pump doesn't work. Any ideas?
Hello, nice video thanks. Quick question re: power source; is it best for a regular power outlet or better with a circuit breaker outlet like the one you’ve used in your video?
Hey Sam I know this is a late response but NEC code requires GFCI outlets near any potential source of water (garage, basement, bathroom, wash room etc). That outlet most likely also is being fed from a circuit with a breaker as breaker panels are also a NEC requirement.
Hope this helps.
So.... you just run that backup pump drain hose out an open basement window?
What if there is very little space? We have a pre existing hole but it's small.
Question- my mother has a metal 1 1/4 discharge pipe that her 1/3hp pump goes into. We are replacing the pump with a 1/2hp pump. Can the new 1/2hp pump with 1 1/2” pvc connect to the old 1 11/4” metal pipe or is that to much pressure going from 1 1/2 down to 1 1/4?
It will be fine. Inhibits volume slightly and slightly more pressure. They are not positive displacements pumps; won't hurt choking the discharge. If fully choked too long, pump can heat up.
I have around 5 foot vert. from pump to elbow where it goes hora. & out of house. I have a bad clunk after pump is shut off. not from valve it is from water knock after quiet valve is shut off. would it help is I set up like yours with a 2 foot vert. then go horz. to wall then back vert. to outlet? I was wandering if this may cause less water to hit valve after pump is shut off &valve is closed?
Personally, I like to hear my pump pipe knocking. If it's silent, I don't know how many times the pump is cycling or if it's even working in the basement. If I hear the pump piping knock at the end of a pump cycle, I know it's working.
Personally, I like to hear the mild piping knocking a bit a the end of a pump out cycle. I know the pump is working and how often it's cycling. Mine's in my basement. I don't spend a lot of time down there; I'm upstairs. If it's raining hard enough for my gutters to overflow, I wanna hear that mild sound of a pipe knocking at cycle's end. I don't want to go up & down the basement stairs several times during a torrent, just to be sure the pump is working; that's why I don't want it to be silent. It's like a car's engine; you know how yours is supposed to sound & you know when something is amiss that needs attention.
I'm the same way. You want to hear certain devices.
@@aguyandhiscomputer The ''certain devices' drown out the "quiet" pumps. Louder during bad rain storms, IS BEST.
If you need a good boat anchor
Get a Wayne pump
YES OUR CHILDREN SUFFERED, WERE TARGETED YES
Thank you...👍🏻
I am digging and installing my first so its really annoying that this one comes up for installation instead of simple REPLACE
No check valve?
Check valve is installed at 3:30
why did you remove the check valve pretty sure you need those by code.
The check valve is on the unit - He mentions it.
nman2563 ok so its one with an exsisting alright
Tyler Pickersgill I'm not sure. He mentions it at 3:30 in the video.
watch the video at the 3 min mark
where is the new back flow stopper?
Watch the video at the 3:30 minute mark.
nman2563 i missed that. i always thought it was up a couple feet from the pump.
You don’t need two check valves
the sound was the best part
What's the matter with it?
Look up Radon gas
gotta
i didn't see a check valve
The check valve is screwed directly into the pump. That's not just a coupler. "you can see it at 3:36"
The float/switch design is terrible on these pumps! I just purchased a Wayne sump w/battery back up to replace an old problem free Zoeller. Not only can the float simply pop off the rod that slides through it, the rod which attaches to the switch lever can slide out when the water rises enough to raise to the float to the point where the switch is activated, this leaves the float and rod floating around in the pit. The float/rod also loosely tangles from the switch lever so it wobbles all over the place, back and forth, as the water rises which could lead to getting hung up on something. These are MAJOR design flaws that could render the pump inoperable when it is needed most. Will be sending it back.
Take it outside, boys! 😐 Both are good pumps, but neither is infallible....!
no sound .. or can't hear it
awesome how to install a sump pump and its already installed. how about how to replace a sump pump
Should not have a sump pump connected to a gfi outlet btw.
Why ?
miss your point
Pipe wrench on PVC joints hahahahhaahahahahahahahahahahah