I have stuck to the "180 rule" for shutter speed, where you take the reciprocal of double the framerate. So recording at 60FPS, I have my shutter at 1/120, giving me a pleasant result, then it was a matter of finding the right amount of ND filtering to drop the exposure to the right amount. Also, just pop open "Lumetri Color" in Adobe Premiere, all the settings are there at your disposal in a much more fluid interface! Indeed I just got the HERO6 and editing footage in post has become all the more addicting! Here are my settings with a video example, let me know what you think? :D Great tips in your video by the way, much appreciated! HERO6, 2xND8 filter (ND64 total), rec 2.7k 60fps superview, shutter 1/120, iso min 100 max 800, white balance 4500k, sharpness low, rendered into 4k 60fps via Adobe Premiere. I also add in post: sharpening, color grading (up contrast and saturation, lower and raise whites and blacks as needed to highlight certain details, and a smidge of vignette. ruclips.net/video/4G4xbQk-H-c/видео.html
Don't forget to floss. I had no idea exactly what you meant until finding out your a dentist on this vid. I assumed it was a quad term or something to do with a frame. Definitely the coolest professional out there. Appreciate the excellent informative and helpful video. Take care Kabob
Even though I have a strong amateur photography background, your treatment of rolling shutter is much appreciated. I also like your framerate and motion blur discussion, as I often fiddle too much with 24-30 FPS and 60 FPS trying to see what works best and looks natural, but detailed.
Thanks Kabab, I love the crazy rigs you set up to test stuff, 3 GoPros! lol And I appreciate your views and experiences, and we can't all be right all the time!
Great video, thanks for all the info ! I can add one more tip for you guys : if you're filming at 1080p, you should upscale your video to at least 1440p in Premiere before uploading it to youtube. It's not that upscaling will make the image ten times more sharp, it won't, but RUclips only allows a very poor bitrate for 1080p videos. If you're filming at 2.7k, you can even upsacle to 4k for the same reason. If you're watching a kwad video on YT, same thing : you don't need to have a 1440p or 4k monitor to see a difference when playing at a higher resolution setting, because the bitrate of the video will be higher, and you won't see as many compression artifacts and motion blur (because a bit of motion blur looks nice but having too much is ugly). If you know how video compression works, (otherwise you can look around it's not that complicated and there are many great videos which explain basically what it is), you'll understand that the low bitrate RUclips allows for 1080p videos is actually ok if you're watching a dude standing still and speaking in front of a whiteboard, but NOT ok for super fast moving and rotating videos like what we film with our GoPros. You will just get an awful lot of compression artifacts, and it seems like even some top-level pilots don't really know that. The bitrate which YT allows for 1440p videos is what I would call a bare minimum for uploading and watching really nice miniquad videos.
And one more thing : I've tried upscaling with GoPro studio once because that was all I had available at that time. It sucked. I don't know exactly why, but it did, it was arguably a lot worse than the raw video. Don't try it and then come tell me that I was wrong :) If you upscale your video PROPERLY, with a real editing software, you should get nice results.
I do take you seriously because of your attitude. Unlike many people in the hobby claiming to be expert and a big dick at the same time which disgust me. I love your information and you don’t say “you are gonna learn something today” every video. Your videos have been the most informative and fun to watch!
I think you kind of mixed two things : the speed at which the shutter "rolls" (it's an electronical shutter but still, we all get the image) along the sensor (creating the jello effect), and the time each line of the sensor is exposed which is basically the shutter speed to make it simple (resulting in motion blur, or on the opposite, resulting in a "jittery" image if the shutter speed is much lower - as in a lower number, which means faster in reality - than the framerate. Both clearly interact with each other, since motion blur will make the jello less apparent. But in reality, a slower shutter speed (higher number, for example 1/60 instead of 1/240) will not result in less jello : the objects will still have moved between the time the first line and the last line of the sensor are processed. But the motion blur resulting from a longer exposure time will somehow "mask" the jello I guess !? I wouldn't even have guessed that ND filter prevented jello. I just thought they prevented this very "jittery" feeling you get when you shoot with high shutter speed, because each individual image have no motion blur and if the movement is quick, your eyes "detect" that objects jump from one image to the next. And my final question arising from this reflexion is : is the speed at which the shutter ROLLS affecter by the exposure time (what we call "shutter speed") or not ? Because you can have a shutter rolling at the same speed for different "shutter speed" or more precisely for different exposure time if we were pedantic (to understand what I mean, see this video showing a slow-mo of an actual DSLR shutter : ruclips.net/video/CmjeCchGRQo/видео.html you can see that from a certain speed, the shutter will "travel" at the same speed, and the only thing changing is the space between the upper and lower shutter, thus changing the time of exposure of each line of the sensor). Also if you'd like more room in post-prod, you should consider shooting with "Flat Color" activated on the GoPro (you need to enable Protune to access this option). This way, you get more details captured in the shadows and highlights, allowing you to adjust them without getting those nasty visible "gradients" effects.
soooo I had to simplify a LOT here to get it in under 30min. I could create an entire lecture course on just these basics. That's why I kinda mushed up some things I talked about. To make it easier to grasp quickly. As for the rolling effect, yes, the problem is the open and the close of the electronics shutter. It starts the capture by 'filling in' the screen and starting to record the light and then it again 'fills in' the screen line by line to close the frame capture and stop the record of the frame. It can be such that the rate is so fast that it's opening and closing at the same time such that the actual sensor collects an even amount of light. That is actually the problem right there. You need to have the shutter speed slow enough such that it spends more time open and recording than 'filling in' to open and close the shutter. The frame rate doesn't totally matter. You can have jello in 60, 120 or 240 fps too. The other part that isn't discussed at all is that you can tune the shutter speed to the frequency of jello you're getting. Like on a 5" quad you don't need as slow of a shutter as you might on a 10" quad because the frequency and amplitude of oscillation on the 10" is gonna be much greater. So you can actually even think of the shutter speed as a 'low pass filter' of sorts. It allows for the high frequency of movement to pass and converts it into blur while doing a better job at recording the much lower frequency of movement which is the quad actually moving about. This is all the same issue that flight controllers have as well...
Yes, I understand the need to simplify. Besides, this is a very complex subject and I'm pretty sure we even lack some info to improve our videos to the best we can (like the speed at which shutter rolls, if it's affected by the shutter speed parameter etc.). Interesting to think about the shutter speed as a low pass filter. Indeed, it is. As for the ND filters, I guess it's the same : the "right" filter will depend on ambient luminosity. The best would be to have a lux meter and stick the right filter depending on what luminosity you have that day. Do you have any recommendation as to what is a good starting point, in term of ND filter ? ND 2 ? 4 ? 8 ? Even more ? Oh and thank you for your videos. I'm kind of "new" in this hobby. I've started flying 3-4 month ago, and just starting to get better at flying. I still have to work on the smoothness and on some more tricks before I can edit freestyle videos that I'd personnally like to watch (I've been introduced to this hobby via Le Drib and NURK videos). But your videos are always interesting, since it's a mix between flying, advices, tech reviews etc., and your technical explanations are usually pretty good and very informative. This is what made me subscribe to you from the first video I've seen.
Hey man fantastic all around explanation of optimal fpv footage.. i seriously love this channel you do a fantastic job of explaining these things.. also im not kidding you do some of the most unique proximity flying around its awesome to watch
Thanks very much. One day I'll actually have time to fly again and will put an effort into improving my abilities more rather than hunting for the best setup that just makes me look good 😅
People are always looking for the "best" setting but there is no such thing. I personally love higher frame rates and 30 fps looks like it is stuttering to me. I still use 30 fps sometimes because the session5 is less crisp when using 60fps. All gaming services like gomtv and twitch have 60fps as pretty much the default. I also feel differently about motion blur, i hate it with a passion and i want to see videos that look like a flip book. The image that you deem unusable is the one i like the most. The color was better in the middle but if you use protune than you can control the colors anyway. Thanks for doing this comparison.
Kabab FPV yup, and going for the crisp look is hard because its not as consistent as using some motion blur because its sensitive to light change, i can only do it if the lighing is right. I will most likely buy some ND filters in the future, just waiting for the community to figure this out before i do. Thanks for another great upload.
Very informative. After reviewing several videos on "jello". I don't think that was my issue. The whole screen was super wobbly. I found the lens not screwed down tight with the locking ring for lack of knowing the correct term for the ring. The props were dinged up and I was experimenting with new RATES. With default rates, new props and the camera lens tightened down. Going to try it again tomorrow. Kind of hoping I can repeat the jello to capture it on video. But, I'd rather just go fly and have fun. Waiting on new balance leads to come in so I can fix two batteries. Thanks for the videos.
You deserve props for the level of effort that you have put forth. You did some very positive things in this video that I hope you continue. 1. The TOC in the description is awesome! 2. The simple description of complicated problems e.g. "Global vs Rolling shutter" and "Motion Blur" to name a couple. 3. You didn't give overly opinionated thoughts on specifics. Seriously, you did a great job discussing theory and remediation to a problem that many of us experience when filming FPV!
Easiest way to get natural motion blur is to use the 180 rule and then cap the iso to 100. After that add an ND and you will get something that looks natural to eye. Want more blur? Change nothing but the shutter to the exact same speed as the frames per second you are recording. This will add just enough without it being jarring. Try your best to not fly at high noon but rather at run ride to 10am it 4pm to sundown. This will wield more pleasing results. Though if you are in a pinch for time then sure you can let the camera do the work and set it to auto. But honestly learning what does best and not penny punching on ND’s will give the results you seek it else you will always be chasing the perfect image. I’m sure you covers that in the video but just breaking it down to simplest terms
The only question i have about Johnny FPV is that is he editing his videos himself because the level of production is quite super duper high lately... Great video by the way, very important aspects to know when it comes to get better with photo-videography! You should learn to use the lumetri colors panel in premiere. Very powerful. Have a great week and happy flying!
I'll look into that since I do nearly no work in post. And yeah Johnny's videos are off the charts lately. It's like he has a whole production team or something.
He does edit his videos himself. He'll periodically post on his story while he's editing I messaged him while he was editing one time to see what software he was using.
Someone said somewhere that he's very fussy with the editing, that he spends a lot of time on the editing. I've seen from my own work that really the first rough cut is just the beginning - the fine tuning and adjustments end up being like 80% of the work, and that makes all the difference. e.g. 4-8 hr rough cut, 4-8 days fine tuning. (I did primary school annual graduation trip video/DVD production for a few years.)
Holy crap! This one and the one about improving fast are the most useful videos I've seen and they answered so.many questions I always had about the nice looking video:) And they are not from so-called "popular" RUclipsrs like Steele or Rotorriot. Thank you man, I gonna go and try them out right now, you inspired me:)
Steele is incredibly knowledgeable. He used to share bits here and there but it's all become mostly vlog stuff now it seems. I haven't kept up with it all. I'm not a huge fan of the vlog style.
Hey, found a silution for the mto situation... first, if you have blheli 32 you can change pwm frequency and that can help. Or, there was a recomendation on slack was raise q and lift d gains. Works well
The downside is that the free version of DaVinci Resolve does not have support for video files encoded with h264 codec, the one used by GoPro. At least for the linux version ... it's a pity :-(
I may hate myself for publicizing this - but RCX LS2207 motors are $10, and absolutely phenomenal for the money. They don't quite keep up with my ZMX FinX or EMAX motors, but they're 95% as good and for half the price, I'm putting these on everything from now one. Butterflight, dropping D term a touch more (PT1, drop notch filters but keep D-Term filter), and even on 8k/8k these setups work amazing. Floss 2.1 6" C-Train Arms, Custom 2x2mm Bottom Plates, 5045 Cyclones -- even running stupidly cheap electronics it flies way better than a $185 quad should every be able to.
I suspect I'm running cheap enough hardware everywhere else on that build I wouldn't be able to notice the difference. Either way, as far as 1700KV offerings that are actually in stock - unbeatable.
great video Bob!! And holy crap with that 3 session monstrosity testing setup using gaffers tape to hold it all together, Hats off to your testing !!!!
Thank you so much for this video. I've been looking for weeks on why I get so much Jello even though my quad is tuned so well. Turns out the answer is just an ND filter! Cause I've been filming 2.7k 4:3 60fps to run in reel steady. But i have to up my shutterspeed to 500+... sometimes 960.... And I get this terrible jello. Ruined so many videos. Again, thank you so much.
Very interesting video, a lot of stuff I already know (global/rolling shutter, ND filters & jello) but some I didn't. In regards to the superview and wide angle side of these sport cams, I've yet to see anyone else besides me post videos on RUclips of their quad flights which has a rectilinear image, it continues to strike me as odd that virtually everyone in this hobby is perfectly fine with watching footage that looks like it's been projected onto the side of a goldfish bowl. IMHO it makes it more difficult to get a sense of scale of the environment where the quad is flying and how close it gets during proximity runs, it bugs me when for example I watch an amazing building dive but the building looks unnaturally curved and all the windows look bent out of shape, which is why I post-process my videos to remove the goldfish bowl look, it also has the effect of increasing the sense of speed. You might find this interesting, I stuck two Xiaomi Yi cameras together each setup identically except one has a 2.97mm rectilinear lens and the other with the stock lens and recording in superview, then did a short walk round my garden, after which post processed the stock+superview footage to remove the goldfish bowl effect: ruclips.net/video/BUfJSbHqiFA/видео.html I intend to put a Xiaomi Yi on a quad this summer and record in superview then post process it like that video :)
Yeah that's definitely one approach. Straying too far from typical makes people stray away even if it's better. Hard to explain that one. But I completely understand what you're doing.
When you do things differently from others you're likely to be seen as an oddball but sometimes you can be seen as a pioneer. I'm a square peg in a round hole, hoping to be a pioneer one day :)
I've literally just figured 99 percent of this out last week! I guess great minds think alike lol.......The film nd filters are soot tricky to apply without air bubbles. And if u lock ur shutters speed sometimes it blows the image out if it's too bright I can't bring it back in post.
Right exactly. That's why I don't mess with the settings however I wish there was a way to limit the shutter as needed and have a wide enough ISO range not to need to worry. Or if we could limit the shutter we would only ever need one ND filter and remove it if it gets really dark.
Hi Kebab, thanks for the great video. I'm from the Netherlands and this must have taken some work. you really understand this, as you explained it in a simple way that even I could understand this ;) . Keep up the great work you are doing.
Really nice video kabab, I now have at least something to try for getting better footage out of the split cameras, I currently softmount them, but the results still feel cheapy, it needs a nd filter to start with.
I got to say I like 60FPS more...but thats only as a gamer point of view.....I got used to it as the movement is much smoother and clearer and in some way I learned to perceive more than 30FPS.....we all know the limits of our eyes but weird thing is that many gamers refuse to play on less than 100fps and really notice its less then 100fps so it may be that we can learn to make use of more than just 30FPS....a huge role played in this is also what HW do you watch your videos on...as there are differences in displayed quality also...probably.
Games are a TOTALLY different area. I personally don't even put games in the same category as photography even though they may share some terms. I won't play a game that doesn't run at ~60fps or above. Especially FPS games. Platformers are whatever. For fast movement and required accuracy you need ALL of the information. 100-120fps is golden and the actual target IMO.
Kabab I just have to disagree...although its totally different area the basic principal is the same...F.E I stopped watching WildWillys videos because those got certain stutter in them and it was very annoying to me. Even if you upload videos in 30fps...if you record those in 60fps with all the goodies that you described in this video I feel those looks better - again as you said all of this is more like a preference
Gotta say too, I prefer 60 fps to 30 fps videos in any case I've ever seen. I'm used to playing videogames with 144hz refresh rate and the frame rate should be above 120. It really depends on the game I'm playing. Sometimes 60 fps just do, but I notice a pleasant difference when I'm above that target. Videos at 30 fps with the right amount of motion blur are totally fine, but 60 fps outclasses it for me by miles. It's actually a hard pill to swallow for me that 30 fps could be a viable option for others because my subjective perception is that different. But the study you recited could explain why some people prefer 30 fps. Thank you for sharing!
If you fly a quad with a smoke stopper attached will the light glow? If so please explain why and if it's safe if current is coming back into the battery??
I don't think it will take off because it will exceed 3amps and just blow the smoke stopper? I was just alarmed when testing my motors on betaflight and the light was coming on when setting motor idle speed..
Kabab FPV yeh sign me up too. I used to use premiere warp stab for my older videos but damn it takes a long time to process. does reelsteady have it's own standalone program or is it just a plugin for aftereffects?
Awesome video!! PLEASE! I would *REALLY* like a video on the stabilization options. With the filters: it would be really good to find a way to light block or put a rubber guard around the edges - light that enters the filter through the edges or corners DESTROYS clarity by ping-ponging reflections on the inside of the filter. Even just painting the edges with dark nail polish or something would help in bright light. You might check out the “curves” filter. I barely know Premier, but I know Photoshop well - in Photoshop “levels” is a destructive filter on the endpoints (if you slide the black and white sliders). Say white is “255” and black is “0” - levels says, “Ok, let’s pretend black isn’t 0, it’s actually 20. So i’m going to take everything below 20 and just make it black.” Little discrimination. So, blacks crash into blobs (and whites the same). Curves is a lot better at saying, “Let’s set 20 as black… instead of chopping everything let’s remap the pixel values to maintain the gradations between the pixels and not crash them altogether. Then again, your videos look great, so whatevs.
Ya that's another way to do a similar thing. I know PS well too so that's the only reason I can navigate anything on Premier. I actually like the sparkle from the edge of the filter. What I'd like to try and fix is the annoying gradient of light where the center is over exposed while the edges are underexposed. I'm hoping that's just the filter being too small for the lens.
Your shutter should run at the frame rate, what will change is the amount of time the sensor is exposed (or recording a frame) and so the shutter will never "fire" at a frequency higher than that of the frame rate.
soothcoder I disagree for some circumstances. I would argue that the industry as a whole (this is film not drone) runs shutter speed at double the frame rate. So 30 fps runs a 1/60 shutter speed. But if you want a super sexy highly motion blurry image you can run a 1/30 shutter speed if you want a super high shutter angle which can look good. But sometimes it's too much.
This is sooo damn interesting research and I will try this as fast as I be abble to find siutable filters. Generally is well known that move makers tend to have camera shutter open for thime that is a half of time betwen frames. For example at 30fps you have ~33,4 ms between frames and you should adjust camera's ISO and iris for good image at shutter open for half of this time - it gives enouch but not too much motion blur and generaly is one of the paramneters that they creating thing named "filmlook" Ofcourse it is easy to obtain on pro movie camera with full manual mode not on gopro. Anyway You defined some things that I have seen on my videos before but didnt know its reason and how to deal with them. Very good video.
Hi! 1/ Which camera do you have on this quad? You surely need a super high image quality to fly so fast! 2/ Which micro quad should I get to have the same kind of flying experience but in a lighter and more "discret" form factor?
I'm only 4min in and I'm impressed, I have a degree in visual arts with the majority of it spent on video and photography and you are doing a fantastic job explaining. 7:00 the language you used initially to explain shutter here would be better served IMHO on aperture, then shutter but I assume your trying to make it easier to understand since GoPro are fixed aperture
Yes exactly. My target audience may or may not have any idea what any of this stuff is. IMO aperture is one of the more confusing of the basic functions to explain to a fresh target because of how dynamic it is. When I'm shooting things in general I usually prefer aperture priority on every camera I use. I haven't looked through the newest cameras but I really would like to see a company give the control to set a range of automation. I don't need to set everything all the time and it's quite annoying to do so. I just want the camera to only function within a certain shutter speed and ISO range while giving me full aperture control. Some other exposure programming here and there would be nice too along with the ability to select my pre-made programs. The only time I'll do all manual is when I'm doing something the camera can't compensate for like dark ND's with foreground flash in bright sun or something.
Kabab FPV some of the full size prosumer and pro cameras do allow for a but if range control with the ISO (you can set a Max value you find acceptable). I fall into the catagory that likes to set everything myself, but for journalism and rapidly changing events I definitely go with aperture mode since I typically shoot wide open.
Kabab FPV one thing I forgot to mention, with the differing shutter types it is actually important at times to set your shutter speed to your frame rate. That could be another point that's difficult for people to understand with video. There is a formula for understanding what shutter speed is preferred to your frame rate based on the shutter angle. Nurk actually did a fantastic video showing the differences. I'll see if I can snag it for you and the viewers.
I don't remember the brand but I once used something like an f/0.8 aperture 24mm lens a long long time ago. It was the most gloriously difficult lens I had ever used. It was enormous and weighed like 4lb. This was before cell phones existed. The DOF was maybe 3mm. lol
Hey Bob I just started my floss style build today.... by the way I really like the design but quick question.. will a run cam micro eagle fit in this frame... I was hoping my predator would fit but not with out some modding.. I ordered a micro eagle today..
It will fit. You've gotta use the two nylon nuts included under the front standoffs. Let the top plate flex. That's okay and good actually. It'll fit fine without the nylon nuts but it's really close. I like some wiggle room.
Wow I was expecting much more expo in your rates for how smooth you fly, I clearly need to practice more! Thanks for the info. Btwi got my flosstyle and I have no idea what the 2 nylon nuts are for or any of the smaller screws.
Where do you buy these glass filters that you tape on? I’m pretty good and don’t really crash so I’d be cool with running a glass filter on my session. I’ve checked online and couldn’t really find anything other than plastic and window tint film. Please let me know and thanks for the great vid!
It's just regular butterflight. I haven't changed much. The normal setup stuff like receiver and such along with my rates which are in this video. I tweaked my P's by just raising them like 4 points. That's all.
Any time I say what to avoid people get angry at me. I really dunno why. I only recommend the TBS guard at this point because I know it works well and there are tons of crappy ones out there. Easy to find garbage...
Thanks for explaining this. I have hard work to explain this stuff to my friends and to convince them that the camera and extra processing are important for the FPV pilot to look cool.
Slightly unrelated question(s) but the only things stopping me from buying the new flosstyle frame are; What is a sturdy way to mount a cp antenna for fpv and whether or not I can chose the color of standoff (I want gold for a good color scheme). Could you possibly answer these questions? Sincerely, Your future customer
Wild Willy has said it before he spend the weeks on editing one video he spends longer than anyone Willie has ever known just editing it's all done in post on top of he's a good pilot but it's mostly done on the computer which makes sense he's just flying a quad like we all have
the problem i have with superview on the gopro is when i fly it on my plane, i get like an "S" shaped horizon in turns and can't really correct it in post without a crap load of work. Any thoughts?
we're usually not doing long winded banking turns while looking at the horizon with miniquads. You can use the non-superview which I think is more common for higher up flying since there's so much to look at in all directions. I personally really like the artistic qualities of the superview look as well.
8:31 1/2000th of a second you mean? I realize it's almost the same thing, but I think more people would understand 30fps, each frame is open for 1/2000th of a second.... That is if I'm understanding you correctly.
Is there anything to recording in 60fps and then changing in post down to 30 or 24fps? I honestly have no idea how that effects this kind of footage, but I've done in it other applications to utilize the high FPS for slow motion in specific areas only, without having the whole thing look so flip-book-like at 60fps.
Nice video Man. It explain why my runcam split footage looked like garbage. Thanks a lot for all those tips. I really appreciate everything you make. Keep it up! And yeah I would like to know more on software as well even if I kinda know how reelsteady work. Edit: aaaand I just realize this clip is 1 year old. Hahaha
@@Kabab that gyro use is impressive. I was'nt sure to invest in a GoPro since I did not understand the origins of my jello. I knew it was vibration and shutter speed. Maybe my absence of tuning, but your description is on point. I thought about buying a ND filter for my runcam... Now I know the quality is not even worth it.
I'm a beginner with a $7 bg nano camera(which is trash) and a 3 inch(which is a fairy). I'm looking to upgrade to either the micro sparrow 2, micro predator or micro arrow pro. I need help choosing, and other micro camera are fine(I would go for the eagle but my budget is $35). Also does the warping on the CMOS make a big difference ?
the new CMOS cameras are better than the old CCD's imo. The Predator micro is what I recommend as the best overall camera but a micro Arrow or micro Swift is good too and cheaper I believe. The micro Eagle is very nice but it is a pretty penny and it's also more fragile thanks to the huge lens. But it's low light performance is absolutely unmatched.
wow this just the video I need right now :) I recently built an iFlight XL7, chasing that smooth video dream. T-motor 1600kv motors, running biblade hq 7045 props, even after some balancing still get lots of jello. Will probably buy triblade props, could anyone recommend hq prop or dalprop for smoothest out of the bag? Would 6" props be too small for these motors? thanks!
so kabab i had session 5 but broke it and got hero 5 black and it quit working so im down to hero 4 black and i have made my own nd filter mount for team blacksheep nd filters. i plan to go beach and i wanna ask whats ur opinions nd8 or nd16? also do i need to change the iso and shutter speed? or can i leave shutter auto and maybe change just iso? i wanna get the best footage i can but im worried ill screw it up. 2.7k 30 with iso 400 and shutter 1/60 or should i leave shutter auto? also white balance leave as auto?
Many people actively manage shutter and things like that manually for each flight. I have no patience or time for that. I just leave it on full auto and throw the ND on. For bright settings like beach you want at least a good ND16.
Sir can u answer a question came in my mind after see yr this vedio ... I see u put 3 GoPro camera in it ....sir do u chenge yr pid tuning everytime or change little bit betaflight settings after adding or removing weight ???? I m new in this hobby so no idea sir ... I m learning
Na. No need to retune usually. However you can end up with a much better flying quad if you actually know what you're doing when tuning. It's really not that easy to tune however.
I love how you include your crashes in the videos, they are usually pretty good!
Yeah I'm not trying to be invincible...
I have stuck to the "180 rule" for shutter speed, where you take the reciprocal of double the framerate. So recording at 60FPS, I have my shutter at 1/120, giving me a pleasant result, then it was a matter of finding the right amount of ND filtering to drop the exposure to the right amount. Also, just pop open "Lumetri Color" in Adobe Premiere, all the settings are there at your disposal in a much more fluid interface! Indeed I just got the HERO6 and editing footage in post has become all the more addicting!
Here are my settings with a video example, let me know what you think? :D Great tips in your video by the way, much appreciated!
HERO6, 2xND8 filter (ND64 total), rec 2.7k 60fps superview, shutter 1/120, iso min 100 max 800, white balance 4500k, sharpness low, rendered into 4k 60fps via Adobe Premiere.
I also add in post: sharpening, color grading (up contrast and saturation, lower and raise whites and blacks as needed to highlight certain details, and a smidge of vignette.
ruclips.net/video/4G4xbQk-H-c/видео.html
Don't forget to floss. I had no idea exactly what you meant until finding out your a dentist on this vid. I assumed it was a quad term or something to do with a frame. Definitely the coolest professional out there. Appreciate the excellent informative and helpful video. Take care Kabob
dude my heart dropped when you got stuck in that palm tree! good to see you got it back!
23:12 that bounce through the tree 😂
Even though I have a strong amateur photography background, your treatment of rolling shutter is much appreciated. I also like your framerate and motion blur discussion, as I often fiddle too much with 24-30 FPS and 60 FPS trying to see what works best and looks natural, but detailed.
I got my FlosStyle in the mail yesterday. I'm super impressed with it. Can't wait to build it up man.
Thanks Kabab, I love the crazy rigs you set up to test stuff, 3 GoPros! lol
And I appreciate your views and experiences, and we can't all be right all the time!
Great video, thanks for all the info ! I can add one more tip for you guys : if you're filming at 1080p, you should upscale your video to at least 1440p in Premiere before uploading it to youtube. It's not that upscaling will make the image ten times more sharp, it won't, but RUclips only allows a very poor bitrate for 1080p videos. If you're filming at 2.7k, you can even upsacle to 4k for the same reason.
If you're watching a kwad video on YT, same thing : you don't need to have a 1440p or 4k monitor to see a difference when playing at a higher resolution setting, because the bitrate of the video will be higher, and you won't see as many compression artifacts and motion blur (because a bit of motion blur looks nice but having too much is ugly).
If you know how video compression works, (otherwise you can look around it's not that complicated and there are many great videos which explain basically what it is), you'll understand that the low bitrate RUclips allows for 1080p videos is actually ok if you're watching a dude standing still and speaking in front of a whiteboard, but NOT ok for super fast moving and rotating videos like what we film with our GoPros. You will just get an awful lot of compression artifacts, and it seems like even some top-level pilots don't really know that. The bitrate which YT allows for 1440p videos is what I would call a bare minimum for uploading and watching really nice miniquad videos.
And one more thing : I've tried upscaling with GoPro studio once because that was all I had available at that time. It sucked. I don't know exactly why, but it did, it was arguably a lot worse than the raw video. Don't try it and then come tell me that I was wrong :) If you upscale your video PROPERLY, with a real editing software, you should get nice results.
I use the stick ons for now. TBS Jelloguard is on the way. As far as bubbles. Just make sure the middle is bubble free and you will be just fine.
I do take you seriously because of your attitude. Unlike many people in the hobby claiming to be expert and a big dick at the same time which disgust me. I love your information and you don’t say “you are gonna learn something today” every video. Your videos have been the most informative and fun to watch!
I think you kind of mixed two things : the speed at which the shutter "rolls" (it's an electronical shutter but still, we all get the image) along the sensor (creating the jello effect), and the time each line of the sensor is exposed which is basically the shutter speed to make it simple (resulting in motion blur, or on the opposite, resulting in a "jittery" image if the shutter speed is much lower - as in a lower number, which means faster in reality - than the framerate.
Both clearly interact with each other, since motion blur will make the jello less apparent. But in reality, a slower shutter speed (higher number, for example 1/60 instead of 1/240) will not result in less jello : the objects will still have moved between the time the first line and the last line of the sensor are processed. But the motion blur resulting from a longer exposure time will somehow "mask" the jello I guess !?
I wouldn't even have guessed that ND filter prevented jello. I just thought they prevented this very "jittery" feeling you get when you shoot with high shutter speed, because each individual image have no motion blur and if the movement is quick, your eyes "detect" that objects jump from one image to the next.
And my final question arising from this reflexion is : is the speed at which the shutter ROLLS affecter by the exposure time (what we call "shutter speed") or not ? Because you can have a shutter rolling at the same speed for different "shutter speed" or more precisely for different exposure time if we were pedantic (to understand what I mean, see this video showing a slow-mo of an actual DSLR shutter : ruclips.net/video/CmjeCchGRQo/видео.html you can see that from a certain speed, the shutter will "travel" at the same speed, and the only thing changing is the space between the upper and lower shutter, thus changing the time of exposure of each line of the sensor).
Also if you'd like more room in post-prod, you should consider shooting with "Flat Color" activated on the GoPro (you need to enable Protune to access this option). This way, you get more details captured in the shadows and highlights, allowing you to adjust them without getting those nasty visible "gradients" effects.
soooo I had to simplify a LOT here to get it in under 30min. I could create an entire lecture course on just these basics. That's why I kinda mushed up some things I talked about. To make it easier to grasp quickly.
As for the rolling effect, yes, the problem is the open and the close of the electronics shutter. It starts the capture by 'filling in' the screen and starting to record the light and then it again 'fills in' the screen line by line to close the frame capture and stop the record of the frame. It can be such that the rate is so fast that it's opening and closing at the same time such that the actual sensor collects an even amount of light. That is actually the problem right there. You need to have the shutter speed slow enough such that it spends more time open and recording than 'filling in' to open and close the shutter. The frame rate doesn't totally matter. You can have jello in 60, 120 or 240 fps too.
The other part that isn't discussed at all is that you can tune the shutter speed to the frequency of jello you're getting. Like on a 5" quad you don't need as slow of a shutter as you might on a 10" quad because the frequency and amplitude of oscillation on the 10" is gonna be much greater. So you can actually even think of the shutter speed as a 'low pass filter' of sorts. It allows for the high frequency of movement to pass and converts it into blur while doing a better job at recording the much lower frequency of movement which is the quad actually moving about. This is all the same issue that flight controllers have as well...
Yes, I understand the need to simplify. Besides, this is a very complex subject and I'm pretty sure we even lack some info to improve our videos to the best we can (like the speed at which shutter rolls, if it's affected by the shutter speed parameter etc.).
Interesting to think about the shutter speed as a low pass filter. Indeed, it is.
As for the ND filters, I guess it's the same : the "right" filter will depend on ambient luminosity. The best would be to have a lux meter and stick the right filter depending on what luminosity you have that day. Do you have any recommendation as to what is a good starting point, in term of ND filter ? ND 2 ? 4 ? 8 ? Even more ?
Oh and thank you for your videos. I'm kind of "new" in this hobby. I've started flying 3-4 month ago, and just starting to get better at flying. I still have to work on the smoothness and on some more tricks before I can edit freestyle videos that I'd personnally like to watch (I've been introduced to this hobby via Le Drib and NURK videos). But your videos are always interesting, since it's a mix between flying, advices, tech reviews etc., and your technical explanations are usually pretty good and very informative. This is what made me subscribe to you from the first video I've seen.
Hey man fantastic all around explanation of optimal fpv footage.. i seriously love this channel you do a fantastic job of explaining these things.. also im not kidding you do some of the most unique proximity flying around its awesome to watch
Thanks very much. One day I'll actually have time to fly again and will put an effort into improving my abilities more rather than hunting for the best setup that just makes me look good 😅
People are always looking for the "best" setting but there is no such thing. I personally love higher frame rates and 30 fps looks like it is stuttering to me. I still use 30 fps sometimes because the session5 is less crisp when using 60fps. All gaming services like gomtv and twitch have 60fps as pretty much the default. I also feel differently about motion blur, i hate it with a passion and i want to see videos that look like a flip book. The image that you deem unusable is the one i like the most. The color was better in the middle but if you use protune than you can control the colors anyway.
Thanks for doing this comparison.
The effort investment is also very important for me. I'm really lazy to do much editing for the last 5%
Kabab FPV yup, and going for the crisp look is hard because its not as consistent as using some motion blur because its sensitive to light change, i can only do it if the lighing is right. I will most likely buy some ND filters in the future, just waiting for the community to figure this out before i do. Thanks for another great upload.
Very informative. After reviewing several videos on "jello". I don't think that was my issue. The whole screen was super wobbly. I found the lens not screwed down tight with the locking ring for lack of knowing the correct term for the ring. The props were dinged up and I was experimenting with new RATES. With default rates, new props and the camera lens tightened down. Going to try it again tomorrow. Kind of hoping I can repeat the jello to capture it on video. But, I'd rather just go fly and have fun. Waiting on new balance leads to come in so I can fix two batteries. Thanks for the videos.
This might be the most useful video you have ever made. Good job!
You deserve props for the level of effort that you have put forth. You did some very positive things in this video that I hope you continue. 1. The TOC in the description is awesome! 2. The simple description of complicated problems e.g. "Global vs Rolling shutter" and "Motion Blur" to name a couple. 3. You didn't give overly opinionated thoughts on specifics.
Seriously, you did a great job discussing theory and remediation to a problem that many of us experience when filming FPV!
Easiest way to get natural motion blur is to use the 180 rule and then cap the iso to 100. After that add an ND and you will get something that looks natural to eye. Want more blur? Change nothing but the shutter to the exact same speed as the frames per second you are recording. This will add just enough without it being jarring. Try your best to not fly at high noon but rather at run ride to 10am it 4pm to sundown. This will wield more pleasing results. Though if you are in a pinch for time then sure you can let the camera do the work and set it to auto. But honestly learning what does best and not penny punching on ND’s will give the results you seek it else you will always be chasing the perfect image. I’m sure you covers that in the video but just breaking it down to simplest terms
The only question i have about Johnny FPV is that is he editing his videos himself because the level of production is quite super duper high lately...
Great video by the way, very important aspects to know when it comes to get better with photo-videography!
You should learn to use the lumetri colors panel in premiere. Very powerful.
Have a great week and happy flying!
I'll look into that since I do nearly no work in post. And yeah Johnny's videos are off the charts lately. It's like he has a whole production team or something.
He does edit his videos himself. He'll periodically post on his story while he's editing I messaged him while he was editing one time to see what software he was using.
Someone said somewhere that he's very fussy with the editing, that he spends a lot of time on the editing. I've seen from my own work that really the first rough cut is just the beginning - the fine tuning and adjustments end up being like 80% of the work, and that makes all the difference. e.g. 4-8 hr rough cut, 4-8 days fine tuning. (I did primary school annual graduation trip video/DVD production for a few years.)
ABMNS PRODUCTION wildwilly said that Johnny edits himself and takes his sweet time when he does.
Yep, saw that mentioned also further down in the comments. Was probably what I was thinking of. Thanks.
I like 60fps, but I never really thought about trying to get more motion blur to make 30fps look nicer, I will definitely try some of this stuff out.
Great video! You explain things very well. What level do you consider a medium ND filter?
23:13, luck or skill? 😂....nice vid man.
Holy crap! This one and the one about improving fast are the most useful videos I've seen and they answered so.many questions I always had about the nice looking video:)
And they are not from so-called "popular" RUclipsrs like Steele or Rotorriot.
Thank you man, I gonna go and try them out right now, you inspired me:)
Steele is incredibly knowledgeable. He used to share bits here and there but it's all become mostly vlog stuff now it seems. I haven't kept up with it all. I'm not a huge fan of the vlog style.
Hey, found a silution for the mto situation... first, if you have blheli 32 you can change pwm frequency and that can help. Or, there was a recomendation on slack was raise q and lift d gains. Works well
You might enjoy Davinci Resolve 15, for easier video editing. It is a very good, free, editing software suite.
Interesting. I'll definitely check it out
I love davinci resolve! Great editor with the best colorgrading tools in down and it’s free!
Oh dude it's made by blackmagic! For sure this is gonna be a winner. Thank you!
Wow I’m happy I saw this!! I’m trying to l2editz so I can get this channel pumping out some footy 😬
The downside is that the free version of DaVinci Resolve does not have support for video files encoded with h264 codec, the one used by GoPro. At least for the linux version ... it's a pity :-(
I may hate myself for publicizing this - but RCX LS2207 motors are $10, and absolutely phenomenal for the money. They don't quite keep up with my ZMX FinX or EMAX motors, but they're 95% as good and for half the price, I'm putting these on everything from now one.
Butterflight, dropping D term a touch more (PT1, drop notch filters but keep D-Term filter), and even on 8k/8k these setups work amazing.
Floss 2.1 6" C-Train Arms, Custom 2x2mm Bottom Plates, 5045 Cyclones -- even running stupidly cheap electronics it flies way better than a $185 quad should every be able to.
They're about 85% there.
I suspect I'm running cheap enough hardware everywhere else on that build I wouldn't be able to notice the difference.
Either way, as far as 1700KV offerings that are actually in stock - unbeatable.
great video Bob!! And holy crap with that 3 session monstrosity testing setup using gaffers tape to hold it all together, Hats off to your testing !!!!
Got my quadlab flosstyle the other day. Im impressed. Thank you!!
Great info. Taught me a lot that I did not know about video quality. Thanks.
Always enjoy your Kabab with a pinch of salt.
Wow!! sick flying through that tree at the beginning!!
Great video Bob!
Has anyone asked why don't manufacturers include these filters with the original product?
Because it's too advanced. People would get confused.
Man. I had never realized how good of a pilot you actually where. Guess it’s not just complaining about companies, you can rip👍😂
Thanks but I'm really nothing next to an actual pro. Really really am not. Maybe I'll discuss why I think that in a video.
I’d definitely like to hear that!
Just watched a whole 23min vid.... learnt something
Wow, so much info! Thank you so much! I’ll,be watching this again.
I’ve used window tint film as an ‘ND’ filter on my session. It works well but applying it is irritating because of air bubbles
Thank you so much for this video. I've been looking for weeks on why I get so much Jello even though my quad is tuned so well.
Turns out the answer is just an ND filter! Cause I've been filming 2.7k 4:3 60fps to run in reel steady. But i have to up my shutterspeed to 500+... sometimes 960.... And I get this terrible jello. Ruined so many videos.
Again, thank you so much.
Another great video! Thanks for your time and effort on this. Always appreciated!
I have no interest in putting a GoPro on my quads but I like the discussion and the flying is awesome. Those trees!
Off the deck tree gap at the end was that on purpose. great information thanks for the vid
This moov at 23:12 !!! Was it luck or not?!
I think it was luck combined with skillz yo..:) part of what makes flying so joyfull;)
Very interesting video, a lot of stuff I already know (global/rolling shutter, ND filters & jello) but some I didn't.
In regards to the superview and wide angle side of these sport cams, I've yet to see anyone else besides me post videos on RUclips of their quad flights which has a rectilinear image, it continues to strike me as odd that virtually everyone in this hobby is perfectly fine with watching footage that looks like it's been projected onto the side of a goldfish bowl.
IMHO it makes it more difficult to get a sense of scale of the environment where the quad is flying and how close it gets during proximity runs, it bugs me when for example I watch an amazing building dive but the building looks unnaturally curved and all the windows look bent out of shape, which is why I post-process my videos to remove the goldfish bowl look, it also has the effect of increasing the sense of speed.
You might find this interesting, I stuck two Xiaomi Yi cameras together each setup identically except one has a 2.97mm rectilinear lens and the other with the stock lens and recording in superview, then did a short walk round my garden, after which post processed the stock+superview footage to remove the goldfish bowl effect: ruclips.net/video/BUfJSbHqiFA/видео.html
I intend to put a Xiaomi Yi on a quad this summer and record in superview then post process it like that video :)
Yeah that's definitely one approach. Straying too far from typical makes people stray away even if it's better. Hard to explain that one. But I completely understand what you're doing.
When you do things differently from others you're likely to be seen as an oddball but sometimes you can be seen as a pioneer.
I'm a square peg in a round hole, hoping to be a pioneer one day :)
The Med filter looks great. You can label it JohnnyFPV quality filter and sell it :)
I've literally just figured 99 percent of this out last week! I guess great minds think alike lol.......The film nd filters are soot tricky to apply without air bubbles. And if u lock ur shutters speed sometimes it blows the image out if it's too bright I can't bring it back in post.
Right exactly. That's why I don't mess with the settings however I wish there was a way to limit the shutter as needed and have a wide enough ISO range not to need to worry. Or if we could limit the shutter we would only ever need one ND filter and remove it if it gets really dark.
I always wondered if you get stuck in those palm trees,I guess so.Gerat informative vids.
Hi Kebab, thanks for the great video. I'm from the Netherlands and this must have taken some work. you really understand this, as you explained it in a simple way that even I could understand this ;) . Keep up the great work you are doing.
Really nice video kabab, I now have at least something to try for getting better footage out of the split cameras, I currently softmount them, but the results still feel cheapy, it needs a nd filter to start with.
I got to say I like 60FPS more...but thats only as a gamer point of view.....I got used to it as the movement is much smoother and clearer and in some way I learned to perceive more than 30FPS.....we all know the limits of our eyes but weird thing is that many gamers refuse to play on less than 100fps and really notice its less then 100fps so it may be that we can learn to make use of more than just 30FPS....a huge role played in this is also what HW do you watch your videos on...as there are differences in displayed quality also...probably.
Games are a TOTALLY different area. I personally don't even put games in the same category as photography even though they may share some terms. I won't play a game that doesn't run at ~60fps or above. Especially FPS games. Platformers are whatever. For fast movement and required accuracy you need ALL of the information. 100-120fps is golden and the actual target IMO.
Kabab FPV very true. I somehow prefer watching my own videos in 60fps because i see it more as a game. Whilei watch others videos more as movies.
Kabab I just have to disagree...although its totally different area the basic principal is the same...F.E I stopped watching WildWillys videos because those got certain stutter in them and it was very annoying to me. Even if you upload videos in 30fps...if you record those in 60fps with all the goodies that you described in this video I feel those looks better - again as you said all of this is more like a preference
Gotta say too, I prefer 60 fps to 30 fps videos in any case I've ever seen. I'm used to playing videogames with 144hz refresh rate and the frame rate should be above 120. It really depends on the game I'm playing. Sometimes 60 fps just do, but I notice a pleasant difference when I'm above that target.
Videos at 30 fps with the right amount of motion blur are totally fine, but 60 fps outclasses it for me by miles. It's actually a hard pill to swallow for me that 30 fps could be a viable option for others because my subjective perception is that different. But the study you recited could explain why some people prefer 30 fps. Thank you for sharing!
Nice video, as always! would you mind to share the link of middle grade ND that you're using on the video?
It's just a sample I'm testing to have made into an appropriate filter.
What grade filter was it?
Do you have a link for these now?
Damn I love watching you fly man. It's just absolute rippage. All the time!
If you fly a quad with a smoke stopper attached will the light glow? If so please explain why and if it's safe if current is coming back into the battery??
I'm not sure what you mean. Yes it should be on and yes there's power bouncing back and fourth constantly
I don't think it will take off because it will exceed 3amps and just blow the smoke stopper? I was just alarmed when testing my motors on betaflight and the light was coming on when setting motor idle speed..
You cannot fly with a smoke stopper installed that’s for testing on the bench. Also if the light is off it’s shorted check your connections.
Would be nice to have a TPU GoPro mount that we could slide the ND filters into?!?!
Many already exist.
Yes, sign me up for a stabilization talk!
What are the most common softwares? Reel steady obviously, is RSMB? Anything free out there?
Reelsteady is #1 by a massive margin. Premiere's warp stabilizer is also useful in some ways too.
Kabab FPV yeh sign me up too. I used to use premiere warp stab for my older videos but damn it takes a long time to process.
does reelsteady have it's own standalone program or is it just a plugin for aftereffects?
$399 is awful steep to justify for those of is still in the single digit subscriber counts :)
Awesome video!! PLEASE! I would *REALLY* like a video on the stabilization options.
With the filters: it would be really good to find a way to light block or put a rubber guard around the edges - light that enters the filter through the edges or corners DESTROYS clarity by ping-ponging reflections on the inside of the filter. Even just painting the edges with dark nail polish or something would help in bright light.
You might check out the “curves” filter. I barely know Premier, but I know Photoshop well - in Photoshop “levels” is a destructive filter on the endpoints (if you slide the black and white sliders). Say white is “255” and black is “0” - levels says, “Ok, let’s pretend black isn’t 0, it’s actually 20. So i’m going to take everything below 20 and just make it black.” Little discrimination. So, blacks crash into blobs (and whites the same). Curves is a lot better at saying, “Let’s set 20 as black… instead of chopping everything let’s remap the pixel values to maintain the gradations between the pixels and not crash them altogether. Then again, your videos look great, so whatevs.
Ya that's another way to do a similar thing. I know PS well too so that's the only reason I can navigate anything on Premier. I actually like the sparkle from the edge of the filter. What I'd like to try and fix is the annoying gradient of light where the center is over exposed while the edges are underexposed. I'm hoping that's just the filter being too small for the lens.
Great!!! Always find out what's new! A lot of useful information! Thanks!!!
Your shutter should run at the frame rate, what will change is the amount of time the sensor is exposed (or recording a frame) and so the shutter will never "fire" at a frequency higher than that of the frame rate.
soothcoder I disagree for some circumstances. I would argue that the industry as a whole (this is film not drone) runs shutter speed at double the frame rate. So 30 fps runs a 1/60 shutter speed. But if you want a super sexy highly motion blurry image you can run a 1/30 shutter speed if you want a super high shutter angle which can look good. But sometimes it's too much.
Well presented video, great flying mate
This is sooo damn interesting research and I will try this as fast as I be abble to find siutable filters. Generally is well known that move makers tend to have camera shutter open for thime that is a half of time betwen frames. For example at 30fps you have ~33,4 ms between frames and you should adjust camera's ISO and iris for good image at shutter open for half of this time - it gives enouch but not too much motion blur and generaly is one of the paramneters that they creating thing named "filmlook" Ofcourse it is easy to obtain on pro movie camera with full manual mode not on gopro. Anyway You defined some things that I have seen on my videos before but didnt know its reason and how to deal with them. Very good video.
Hi! 1/ Which camera do you have on this quad? You surely need a super high image quality to fly so fast! 2/ Which micro quad should I get to have the same kind of flying experience but in a lighter and more "discret" form factor?
Back then I think I had just a GoPro session 5
I'd be interested in stabilization software, been thinking about it for ages.
I'm only 4min in and I'm impressed, I have a degree in visual arts with the majority of it spent on video and photography and you are doing a fantastic job explaining.
7:00 the language you used initially to explain shutter here would be better served IMHO on aperture, then shutter but I assume your trying to make it easier to understand since GoPro are fixed aperture
Yes exactly. My target audience may or may not have any idea what any of this stuff is. IMO aperture is one of the more confusing of the basic functions to explain to a fresh target because of how dynamic it is. When I'm shooting things in general I usually prefer aperture priority on every camera I use. I haven't looked through the newest cameras but I really would like to see a company give the control to set a range of automation. I don't need to set everything all the time and it's quite annoying to do so. I just want the camera to only function within a certain shutter speed and ISO range while giving me full aperture control. Some other exposure programming here and there would be nice too along with the ability to select my pre-made programs. The only time I'll do all manual is when I'm doing something the camera can't compensate for like dark ND's with foreground flash in bright sun or something.
Kabab FPV some of the full size prosumer and pro cameras do allow for a but if range control with the ISO (you can set a Max value you find acceptable).
I fall into the catagory that likes to set everything myself, but for journalism and rapidly changing events I definitely go with aperture mode since I typically shoot wide open.
Kabab FPV one thing I forgot to mention, with the differing shutter types it is actually important at times to set your shutter speed to your frame rate. That could be another point that's difficult for people to understand with video.
There is a formula for understanding what shutter speed is preferred to your frame rate based on the shutter angle. Nurk actually did a fantastic video showing the differences. I'll see if I can snag it for you and the viewers.
ruclips.net/video/S1f1oGn1lkg/видео.html
I don't remember the brand but I once used something like an f/0.8 aperture 24mm lens a long long time ago. It was the most gloriously difficult lens I had ever used. It was enormous and weighed like 4lb. This was before cell phones existed. The DOF was maybe 3mm. lol
1440P wide @ 60FPS and then dynamic stretch in post ('superview'). Same bitrate and FoV as 2.7k.
It'll be very similar but twice the frames so it's actually lower rate. I also prefer 30
Hey at 9:47 what filters are these? ND4 and ND8 right?
Thanks :)
Hey Bob I just started my floss style build today.... by the way I really like the design but quick question.. will a run cam micro eagle fit in this frame... I was hoping my predator would fit but not with out some modding.. I ordered a micro eagle today..
It will fit. You've gotta use the two nylon nuts included under the front standoffs. Let the top plate flex. That's okay and good actually. It'll fit fine without the nylon nuts but it's really close. I like some wiggle room.
Kabab FPV ok great..thank you. I will post a flight test with it this week.
Your video came right at the time I was thinking why my footage is so jelly... :D (have GoPro 2 days so far), stabilization should be off! Thanks!!
Wow I was expecting much more expo in your rates for how smooth you fly, I clearly need to practice more! Thanks for the info. Btwi got my flosstyle and I have no idea what the 2 nylon nuts are for or any of the smaller screws.
I like to keep things as stock as possible. Makes it easier to build many quads.
Where do you buy these glass filters that you tape on? I’m pretty good and don’t really crash so I’d be cool with running a glass filter on my session. I’ve checked online and couldn’t really find anything other than plastic and window tint film. Please let me know and thanks for the great vid!
I'm working on getting them for a reasonable price for everyone.
Bob could you post your butter flight config file, I built a flosstyle with Pyrodrone F4 and would like to try Butterflight on it
It's just regular butterflight. I haven't changed much. The normal setup stuff like receiver and such along with my rates which are in this video. I tweaked my P's by just raising them like 4 points. That's all.
I love it! Thank you so much for this infos and sharing you Experience👍🏿
So you think our only option will be the foxeer box, for now... or try and buy a used session 5...
No the Box is awful. We have no option anymore. Try to buy refurb session 5's if you can find them
Kabab FPV sounds good hopefully they come out with a session 6
I was hoping you'd tell us which ones to avoid and which brand names to get and which density..
Any time I say what to avoid people get angry at me. I really dunno why. I only recommend the TBS guard at this point because I know it works well and there are tons of crappy ones out there. Easy to find garbage...
Thanks for explaining this. I have hard work to explain this stuff to my friends and to convince them that the camera and extra processing are important for the FPV pilot to look cool.
Slightly unrelated question(s) but the only things stopping me from buying the new flosstyle frame are; What is a sturdy way to mount a cp antenna for fpv and whether or not I can chose the color of standoff (I want gold for a good color scheme). Could you possibly answer these questions? Sincerely,
Your future customer
27mm wide rear tpu accessories are available and I'm having one specifically made to be optimal soon too
Thank goodness! I am a happy now and you just earned 50 bucks for piroflip lol
Wild Willy has said it before he spend the weeks on editing one video he spends longer than anyone Willie has ever known just editing it's all done in post on top of he's a good pilot but it's mostly done on the computer which makes sense he's just flying a quad like we all have
GREAT WELL DONE ! Nice program
Suggestions for where to get the tinted glass you've got taped onto the session cameras?
Working on it. I found absolutely stellar glass recently but they're Uber expensive. Working on fixing that....
CCD for ever now thank you so much mr kabab for this video
The more recent CMOS sensors really are a LOT better
Ok i think this new sensors is actually too expensive for me.. but now i finally have the solution for this fucking jello :D
The Vault Boy 【ツ】 if you want a ccd sensor that has a 1080p resolution or more it will cost you a lot.
Best one ever ! Kwad with 3 cams .. I love it !
the problem i have with superview on the gopro is when i fly it on my plane, i get like an "S" shaped horizon in turns and can't really correct it in post without a crap load of work.
Any thoughts?
we're usually not doing long winded banking turns while looking at the horizon with miniquads. You can use the non-superview which I think is more common for higher up flying since there's so much to look at in all directions. I personally really like the artistic qualities of the superview look as well.
Man! how did you get your quad back from that palm tree? it’s like 30m tall!
By slamming into it with a crappy banggood quad. You could say that I, banged it really good 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
im just starting to strap a gopro on. thanks for the info
8:31 1/2000th of a second you mean? I realize it's almost the same thing, but I think more people would understand 30fps, each frame is open for 1/2000th of a second.... That is if I'm understanding you correctly.
Yeah hard concept to get across easily
Is there anything to recording in 60fps and then changing in post down to 30 or 24fps? I honestly have no idea how that effects this kind of footage, but I've done in it other applications to utilize the high FPS for slow motion in specific areas only, without having the whole thing look so flip-book-like at 60fps.
Yes it's a common thing to do. Especially since 60fps cuts down on the jello. But you usually need to sacrifice resolution to get the 60fps.
Damn dude you can fly the s---t out of that tree. Great control and timing!!!!
Nice video Man. It explain why my runcam split footage looked like garbage. Thanks a lot for all those tips. I really appreciate everything you make. Keep it up! And yeah I would like to know more on software as well even if I kinda know how reelsteady work.
Edit: aaaand I just realize this clip is 1 year old. Hahaha
Reelstesdy is super intesting how it works. The reelstesdy go uses the GoPros gyro so it's sort of cheating but still amazing
@@Kabab that gyro use is impressive. I was'nt sure to invest in a GoPro since I did not understand the origins of my jello. I knew it was vibration and shutter speed. Maybe my absence of tuning, but your description is on point. I thought about buying a ND filter for my runcam... Now I know the quality is not even worth it.
I'm a beginner with a $7 bg nano camera(which is trash) and a 3 inch(which is a fairy). I'm looking to upgrade to either the micro sparrow 2, micro predator or micro arrow pro. I need help choosing, and other micro camera are fine(I would go for the eagle but my budget is $35). Also does the warping on the CMOS make a big difference ?
the new CMOS cameras are better than the old CCD's imo. The Predator micro is what I recommend as the best overall camera but a micro Arrow or micro Swift is good too and cheaper I believe. The micro Eagle is very nice but it is a pretty penny and it's also more fragile thanks to the huge lens. But it's low light performance is absolutely unmatched.
I usually fly in good light, so thx for the advice! :) .
wow this just the video I need right now :)
I recently built an iFlight XL7, chasing that smooth video dream. T-motor 1600kv motors, running biblade hq 7045 props, even after some balancing still get lots of jello. Will probably buy triblade props, could anyone recommend hq prop or dalprop for smoothest out of the bag? Would 6" props be too small for these motors?
thanks!
damn..way awesum vid, gonna find me a ND filter. the 3 gopro thingamabob... u could make a super stereoscopic '4-D' rig!
Did you clip the line at 12:20? Like you rode it out.
Who is Johnny? :0
Johnny FPV
my session is set to 1080/48 superview by the way
so kabab i had session 5 but broke it and got hero 5 black and it quit working so im down to hero 4 black and i have made my own nd filter mount for team blacksheep nd filters. i plan to go beach and i wanna ask whats ur opinions nd8 or nd16? also do i need to change the iso and shutter speed? or can i leave shutter auto and maybe change just iso? i wanna get the best footage i can but im worried ill screw it up. 2.7k 30 with iso 400 and shutter 1/60 or should i leave shutter auto? also white balance leave as auto?
Many people actively manage shutter and things like that manually for each flight. I have no patience or time for that. I just leave it on full auto and throw the ND on. For bright settings like beach you want at least a good ND16.
I went and picked up some scrap tint from a vehicle tinting shop for free, will report back if it's any good
just tried it, still a tiny bit of jello but overall made a huge difference, once my triblade props turn up I think it'll be sorted :)
Very well explained. Thank you.
lol I just asked for this video on ig. Thanks for all your testing and exploring ^^
Sir can u answer a question came in my mind after see yr this vedio ... I see u put 3 GoPro camera in it ....sir do u chenge yr pid tuning everytime or change little bit betaflight settings after adding or removing weight ???? I m new in this hobby so no idea sir ... I m learning
Na. No need to retune usually. However you can end up with a much better flying quad if you actually know what you're doing when tuning. It's really not that easy to tune however.
@@Kabab thank u so much sir
take a look closer on 7:20
:D you nearly killed the rope
cheers from north germany
I didn't even notice that. The only frikin thing in the sky and I find a way to hit it and get close
:D cool that only i noticed that. and thanks for ur filter lesson :) it will help me alot. i will try 30fps with 2k and some blur
Awesome info, man. Thanks a lot!
Thank you. Just what I needed
Great video! Very informative.
Love your videos, love your info!
Amazing flying man