Car is tuned and running great. After 9 email tunes with Hemifever, Dyno tunning at local shop, the final tuning was an email tune by Flyin Ryan performance.
My advice looking back, start with the cam before anything else. It's going to give you what you are looking for. CAI overall not a big deal even when you tune for them.
I used to have a 392 man I miss that shit but LS is where it’s at. I used to be die hard Mopar guy but nothing ain’t better than a cts v2, can’t get enough of that whine one day I’ll come back to the Mopar scene
Noice, sounds good! From OKC here with a 15 Charger RT. I'm thinking about doing the Edelbrock but 2nd choice would be the cam. Tough choice for me. I definitely need a track pack rear end swap too, I've got the 2.62 rears.
Yeah thats what the dyno tuner said too. It's a lot better now after my last updated tune he performed last week. I had the 3.09 diff installed and the 6.4 intake about a month ago. So he update the tune on street driving. We couldn't dyno because I have a cracked rotor from Power Stop. The new one arrives today. Everyone is saying with a cammed ride, it is really best to get the stall converter. Looking at Circle D, Pro Torque, and another one.
Wicked ride man, I have a 17 rt as well bought the intake so this is really good info, thanks for your video. I’ve heard about the intake when the actuators switch, there’s a drop on the curve. Was that something tuned out with fuel?
@cosmo8465 Well, I watched a video by Donny R/T. He took his for a dyno tune. They just adjusted his from 4600rpm to 4800rpm and that basically took away nearly all of that drop and looked really smooth. My tuner thinks I should try 5000rpm. Donny and I have the same HRT Comp Cam stage 2 installed and similar mods but he has a Charger. I havent dyno since the install if that and my 3.09 diff which the diff is more about traction for both wheels along with some Nitto 555r street drag radials for traction. Once this rotor is replaced, today or tomorrow, I am going to dyno again. Twice with the 4800rpm and then try 5000rpm and see whats best.
Beautiful car. Sounds very nice. I was wondering about the tuning issues since this is a new cam. I had surging with my 270 cam with a stall in my car. I am upgrading to the hrt stage 3 cam and having hhp do the tuning.
Yeah. Tune was close but still had that strong surging in gear at idle. Stop signs, picking up kid from school it would jerk forward the whole time. After 20mph it was solid and a beast. Did email tunes first with Hemifever, and then Dyno tuning. I went back several times. It was running smooth all the way home, but started dying at idle instead of surging. Tried it 3 more times. I heard Flyin Ryan is a good email tuner or if you are close he does dyno and street tuning as well. What is funny. My previous challenger I did all the scat pack stages with the Stage 3 pcm and none of those issues.
are you running upgraded lifters/valve springs? looking to get the same came for my 2010 rt but don’t want to cheap out too much and end up needing to rebuild the engine. Also if you have an automatic, did you need anything special to delete mds or will a tuner take care of that just by turning it off?
Yes, I bought the comp cam HRT stage 2 Master Kit that came with the new and improved lifters and springs. The kit comes with an mds kit. Also, the tuner takes care of the rest. I still had to buy a engine gaskets and seals kit.
@@editsbyevan839 no problem. Im not a big You Tuber, just putting info out there and if anyone has a question, I will help. I hate to see people waste money on something that doesn't work or very little gain like I started out doing. I could have skip all the exhaust, cai, tb, and 6.4 intake and just procharged it at a low psi. I do like the cam and being naturally aspirated.
I have stage 2 HRT cam and I’m having the exact same problem minus the dying. I personally believe it’s the tuner. I’m FBO E85 & only gained 30whp from the cam which was a disappointing based on what was spent on cam and install
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 not to mention she really doesn’t even chop unless I’m Idling in drive. Other than that it almost sounds stock. So I’m really hoping it’s the tuner just so I don’t feel like I wasted 4k
have u figured out the issue? my dad has a stage 2 cam in his cobra and he only gained like 30 but thats because the shop messed up his car when rebuilt and the tune was shit
I was going to. But, several people that have told me they still have the same issue. Modern Red Hemi has a You Tube channel. I asked him if he did a stall and he said yes but still surges on him. I know it's the tune now. I traded this in and got a scat now and a friend bought it. He did a data log for Flyin Ryan performance. He sent back a picture of how horrible the tune was. I wish I would have kept it. I put a lot into it and I knew when they got the tune down there would be some more horsepower.
DID YOU ADD A PHASER LIMITER OR LOCK ON THE CAM PHASER??? I See a lot of ppl commenting about a high stall converter which would definitely help but adjusting the cams range should’ve helped immediately? No?
The kit came with a phase limiter. I was going to do a higher stall converter next, but I was already 12k into the car at this point and that one guy Red Hemi said he did a higher stall converter and still has those same issues, but his doesn't usually die on him like mine did at a stop sign.
After everything, it was 405hp to wheels and then after the 6.4 intake manifold with mds box added with the manifold, it was retuned and final numbers were 415hp to wheels and 400 in torque.
Yeah, it was repaired the next day. Like I said in the video, I had just gotten the car back from the body shop. They delivered because I had Covid-19 at the time. They had to replace the whole section.
Hey bro,just watched you're video,nice chally .that tune still needs some work. That idle is pretty high .if you get it down it v will lope more .I also used hemi fever.his tunes suck never could get it right even after 12 revisions.then I done a dyno tune with hp,I still wasn't happy had alot of the issues you're having with surg and such. Then I done a email tune with Jay Green racing and he is awesome. Car runs great idle low with no issues . He has mine idling at 700 it sounds great. Might think of giving him a try. I have all the same mods as you .running comp 270 cam .might want to give him a try if you're guy can't get it to you're liking .
I have to get it dyno tuned one more time since the intake was added. Right now, 405hp to the wheels, close to 465 hp at the crank. We are hoping with the ported to 92mm 6.4 intake manifold and Hellcat throttle body and tune close to 425hp to the wheels.
If it is mostly stock, I would just do a Hemifever tune. Cam and other work, I had it dyno tuned at Deep Stage Tuning in Norman. It had to be retuned by email by Flyin Ryan Performance.
Some people say it will, but I know 3 people who installed a stall converter and they still have the same issue. Modern Red Hemi has a channel and he confirmed this as well.
@@riology2234 I sold the car to a friend. He had fine tuned by Flyin Ryan performance. I feel like that cammed sound isnt as noticeable, but it's there and runs smooth.
Very nice challenger! Sounds great. I have a 2011 srt. With a ken belle 2.8. I’m looking to add to the motor with a nice blower cam. Do you have the specs. For that cam?
I am not sure how I would attach to this post, but the spec sheet is available through Comp Cams website. They make a stage 2 for the 5.7 that is designed for procharged or turbo applications as well
The old 6.1 aluminum intake?. There meant for top end and boosted applications because it’s aluminum it won’t break under boost where as The 6.4 active runner intake increases mid range because of the runner activates from long to short runner mode at an rpm range Something like that
@@Sak-zo1ui yes exactly, but aluminum is stronger then plastic, so for boosted applications using a centrifugal supercharger. It’s better to use the old 6.1 aluminum intake.
@@cosmo8465 yes if you are going for crazy boost numbers. But for how expensive they are the edelbrock victor 2 is cheaper and has been proven to flow a little better than the 6.1.
wow nice set up and thank you for sharing. I think you should go with a hellcat throttle body it is easier for e mail tuner to start with an already existing map a ported intake with a ported throttle body need a wideband tune or dyno tuned or you risking to lean up and blow up that nice sounding piston of yours
was wondering specifically what you had to do to the challenger. i know you had to tune it but what else? im new to modding cars never done anything like adding a cam or headers.- 2022 durango rt -
I will say it would have been a little cheaper if I had the longtubes installed while having the engine work done. I bought the Base tune in advance. I had to send my cam specs and the other mods I was doing to Hemifever to create a start up safe tune until you can data log. After data logging, send it back by email. He will send you a revised tune.
What was your power gains? I’m looking into goin with the same cam. I got a 2019 300 with the 5.7, JLT intake, engine and trans tune, ported throttle body, high flow cats, and shorty headers
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 I’m glad I’m not the only one who did that, got the exact same tire setup on mine and I love the stance it gives it, you can see it but it’s not too pronounced
Still happy with the tune? Also in Oklahoma, I have a 2017 Challenter T/A 6 speed and will soon be in need of a tuner that speaks fluent MOPAR. Stunning car man!
Thank you. I know longer have this car. I traded it in for a Scat Pack. Sold that scat and bought another 2020 Scatpack Challenger last month in the Go Mango orange color. Get with Flyin Ryan Perfomance if using email tune.
I believe so. After I added the 6.4 intake, that changed a lot of the surging for some reason. I had it retuned last Saturday. He did some drive tuning. Its much better now. He changed it back to stock and reloaded his modified street tune. It runs great now. I didn't get to do my dyno because of a cracked rotor on the back passenger side. It was cracked in half. Power Stop is sending another for free. Once I get that on Friday when I'm off, I will do some more driving around. Plan to dyno probably after Christmas. I have 7 kids, so money is tight until then.
Also, I did get the 3.09 lsd installed. I had someone on FB harp on me about saying it's the same gearing, what a waste of money. I just said, Well, I was spinning on one wheel, now I have 2 wheels to the ground for traction.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 Yours is Road and Track edition? If not, did you have to upgrade axles? I've read somewhere that with the 2.62 I have I can't just swap rear end, I have to swap axles too because on the 2.62 they are smaller, I think by about 10mm if I remember right, but don't quote me on that.
@@stephenmartin5766 No axles needed upgraded. My RT had a 3.08 which is 230mm and the 3.09 is also 230mm. Direct fit with no issues on that. Except you need to update the gearing ratio in the tune. Not much difference in the gearing but one is lsd.
Have you solved your learching issue?? About to install this cam kit in my ram 1500 5.7 with headers and high volume melling oil pump, and s&b cold air intake. Just wondering if it’s solved and what to look for
Any cam will need a tune unless you purchase the new No Tune cam from MMX for a 5.7 and possibly for the 6.4 now. You can use email tunes and use a diablosport tuner, but not diablosport already preloaded canned tunes. After you purchase the cam, you would email the tuner all the specs from the spec sheet from your cam and any other modifications you have made. They will send a basic start up tune. You will data log some basic driving first and send email it back. They will modify again and do some pulls from 0 to 60, 30 to 80mph, and maybe a 45 to 100 pulls. Data log those, email it back, and usually they will do one last tune that should work.
No never did. After the 3rd tuner, I just traded it in for a Scat. Then anothrr Scat. Now a new RT with headers being put on as we speak. Im going to post a video of it with a stock dyno. I plan to use the same dyno everytime. Dyno is also scheduled immediately after headers and tune installed.
Not yet. I have issue with surging at idle sometimes, or when holding the breaks down at a stoplight. I was told the right size stall converter, between 2800 and 3400, it alleviates that issue.
Borla atak 3" exhaust. Stainless Works longtube headers with high flow cats. Injen cai. Hellcat throttle body and adapter on a 6.4 intake manifold. Programmed the long and short runners with and mds box. Stage 2 HRT comp cams. Hellcat replicas, with 305/35/20 in rear, 275/40/20in front, z26 road warrior package drilled and slotted rotors with carbon fiber/ceramic brake pads. Of course a tune. Oh, upgraded interior to laguna leather srt seats heated and vented.
It's the z26 power stop set that comes with ceramic and carbon fiber pads and the red calipers. It really needed better brakes after all the power was added to it. Was very hard to slow down.
@@andershilbert8913 reverse in gear, and drive at idle speed. But it is taken care of now. Flyin Ryin Performance got it dialed in. No issues. HP Tuning instead.
Be really careful with Hemifever, if you are using his tune as a base. I have the same cam with some port work and Doug Thorley tri-y headers and couldn't get him to even respond to emails. I bought HPTuners and have learned to tune on my own, and found his Diablo tune had turned off the knock sensors on his tune for my car when it was stock. I also had a huge issue with surge and basically flooding at low rpms. After remapping the fuel mass, my 5.7 idles at 700 on a warm day tune and I have to bump it to 728rpm for colder weather.
Yes. The base tune after install was drivable, barely. Did 9 more email tunes, never quite right. Took it for dyno tune and adjustments after that 5 more times. After 20mph it was great and a beast to drive, but in town driving, at stop signs and lights, any time idle in gear either it would surge and jerk like crazy or the new tune would not jerk but would just die repeatedly.
No. At the time, I had Covid-19. After that, I started having issues with surging, shake like crazy at stop signs or lights. Tuned again, died at stop signs or stop lights. Tuned again, back to shaking. Then last guy dyno and said he thought I was starting to have transmission issues. So, panicked, traded it in for a Scat Pack. A friend bought it. Just needed a 3400 stall converter and tuned. Now I have a 22 that I just did a video of before stock dyno, and a dyno after the Stainless Works(Power) long tubes and high flow cats. Also, decided on a friendlier cam and bought a 6.4 non-mds cam, non-mds lifters, .600 springs, and all gaskets and seals. Will get installed soon, tuned on dyno, and then post that video. Just want everyone to see dynos of before and after including stock.
All together; Hellcat replicas staggered, 10.5 rims with 305/35/20 tires on rear and 9" rims on front with the 245/45/20 tires, z36 front and back brake kit with thebred calipers, 3.09 lsd differential installed, Injen CAI, with 6.4 intake manifold and hellcat throttle body, Stage 2 HRT Comp Cams master cam kit, Stainless Works Longtube headers with high flow cats, Hellcat leather interior installed heated and vented seats, and tuned several times. Before the 6.4 intake manifold with msd box for short and long runners active and before the hellcat tb, it was 409whp and 389 torque. I wish I had a dyno afterwards and the retune. I traded it in and started over on a new 22 Challenger RT. I am documenting everything I am doing to it. I am going to experiment and do just the cam first with a before and after dyno to show what a no tune, no springs required MMX cam for the 5.7 gives to the wheel horsepower. They say the cam can be tuned as well, but trying to see if it does as advertised. Finding someone who can really tune and dial these hemis in locally is difficult. I plan to post it on You Tube. I figured if it ran on stock tune, then you could install this and the advertised 30whp would be a great upgrade without the dealership detecting you have had work done. If not, then I will go to another Comp Cam again. I want to see what a cam alone does. Then add power adders like headers, cai, and tb.
Had same issue with the same tuner Hemifever......I bought HP Tuner software and working on it myself and now have it doing well. Never tuned before so it took me a while to figure it out. Hope you have your straightened out. @hammersrt
Car is tuned and running great. After 9 email tunes with Hemifever, Dyno tunning at local shop, the final tuning was an email tune by Flyin Ryan performance.
Hey I am in owasso where did you get yours tuned? Nevermind I should have watched the whole vid before asking
@@donaldmccombs5566 did you ever get this done to your car???
Sounds good as hell brotha. The stage 3 sounds beastly compared to stage 1 & 2!
Facts
Bro I have a 2016 RT, you really opened my eyes on this beast
I have a stroked 6.4 to 430 cubes, Comp Cam 274, kooks long tubes, kooks green cats, Borla Atak exhaust, 105mm VMP throttle body
Ur car sounds godly😭
Lets see it lol
I’d like to hear what it sounds like
Great run down brother! Just catching up on your content.
Absolutely perfect sound
Man your living my dream, 🤣 my R/T is stock rn but my end goal is FBO & Intake , Cam build and 3.09 Gears. Keep up the good work 🙏🏽❤️.
My advice looking back, start with the cam before anything else. It's going to give you what you are looking for. CAI overall not a big deal even when you tune for them.
So whats the best cam to buy
I used to have a 392 man I miss that shit but LS is where it’s at. I used to be die hard Mopar guy but nothing ain’t better than a cts v2, can’t get enough of that whine one day I’ll come back to the Mopar scene
Noice, sounds good! From OKC here with a 15 Charger RT. I'm thinking about doing the Edelbrock but 2nd choice would be the cam. Tough choice for me. I definitely need a track pack rear end swap too, I've got the 2.62 rears.
Man, I love the green! Looks so sick
Thanks. Everything all good on your E85?
There was a hard start issue before?
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 nah. Only on the e85
@@DonnySRT So, is it just E85 that causes that hard start?
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 Pretty much. They nailed the warm starts but I have to go back for the cold starts. On 91 it fired up perfectly when cold
That RT sounds like a fucking beast
I heard a properly spec’d torque converter will solve this issue with this cam. Guys were puttin in 3200-3400 stall converter to fix the surge issue
Yeah thats what the dyno tuner said too. It's a lot better now after my last updated tune he performed last week. I had the 3.09 diff installed and the 6.4 intake about a month ago. So he update the tune on street driving. We couldn't dyno because I have a cracked rotor from Power Stop. The new one arrives today.
Everyone is saying with a cammed ride, it is really best to get the stall converter. Looking at Circle D, Pro Torque, and another one.
Wicked ride man, I have a 17 rt as well bought the intake so this is really good info, thanks for your video. I’ve heard about the intake when the actuators switch, there’s a drop on the curve. Was that something tuned out with fuel?
And the diff you put In, is this in an auto? I was hoping I’d get away from that but I’ll take your word for it if need be?
@cosmo8465 Well, I watched a video by Donny R/T. He took his for a dyno tune. They just adjusted his from 4600rpm to 4800rpm and that basically took away nearly all of that drop and looked really smooth.
My tuner thinks I should try 5000rpm. Donny and I have the same HRT Comp Cam stage 2 installed and similar mods but he has a Charger.
I havent dyno since the install if that and my 3.09 diff which the diff is more about traction for both wheels along with some Nitto 555r street drag radials for traction.
Once this rotor is replaced, today or tomorrow, I am going to dyno again. Twice with the 4800rpm and then try 5000rpm and see whats best.
@@cosmo8465 Yes, it is the 8 speed auto.
2014 Chrysler 300C AWD 5.7
1. JBA longtube headers
2. Corsa Catback exhaust (3.5 inch dual tips)
3. JBA catless mid pipe
4. Corsa cold intake
5. 87 ported throttle body
6. 6.1 ported intake manifold
7. HRT stage 3 cam 224/234
8. Mds delete hellCat lifters
9. 525 hellCat fuel pump
10. 600cc hellCat injectors
11. E85
12. Oil catch can
13. Dyno tune and a street tune
14. Transmission tune
15. 3600 torque converter
16. 10lb 100shot NOS
What kinda power are you putting to wheel?
The surging during idle might be caused by a throttle positioning sensor, my truck did the same sounds and I replaced that part and it stopped
Needs phase limiter and lock
Nope he needs a high stall converter
@@phuckyou73 not with the hrt stage 2 you dont. If you go for a bigger cam then yea
The reason why the car is learching is because you probably got too heavy of a cam for the stock converter swap it out and it should help ya
That's what the tuner is saying. He said anywhere from a 3200 to 3500 stall.
Facts
Yep that is definitely the mannerisms. I skipped thru the video but once I heard that shift from park I knew you needed a stall
Beautiful car. Sounds very nice. I was wondering about the tuning issues since this is a new cam. I had surging with my 270 cam with a stall in my car. I am upgrading to the hrt stage 3 cam and having hhp do the tuning.
Yeah. Tune was close but still had that strong surging in gear at idle. Stop signs, picking up kid from school it would jerk forward the whole time. After 20mph it was solid and a beast. Did email tunes first with Hemifever, and then Dyno tuning. I went back several times. It was running smooth all the way home, but started dying at idle instead of surging. Tried it 3 more times. I heard Flyin Ryan is a good email tuner or if you are close he does dyno and street tuning as well. What is funny. My previous challenger I did all the scat pack stages with the Stage 3 pcm and none of those issues.
Very nice do you need a stall with that cam I'm trying to decide between the stage 2 and 3 hrt cam
@@ColdBalls991 I would suggest having a stall as it helps with driveability. I am actually taking that cam out and going bigger in the next 2 weeks
are you running upgraded lifters/valve springs? looking to get the same came for my 2010 rt but don’t want to cheap out too much and end up needing to rebuild the engine. Also if you have an automatic, did you need anything special to delete mds or will a tuner take care of that just by turning it off?
Yes, I bought the comp cam HRT stage 2 Master Kit that came with the new and improved lifters and springs.
The kit comes with an mds kit. Also, the tuner takes care of the rest. I still had to buy a engine gaskets and seals kit.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 appreciate the info and quick response man
@@editsbyevan839 no problem. Im not a big You Tuber, just putting info out there and if anyone has a question, I will help. I hate to see people waste money on something that doesn't work or very little gain like I started out doing. I could have skip all the exhaust, cai, tb, and 6.4 intake and just procharged it at a low psi.
I do like the cam and being naturally aspirated.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 if u prochargered it u still have to upgrade your internals like rods springs lifter mods delte ? For a 5.7
@@timchand4165 No. You can procharge it safely to 7lbs of boost.
Probably needs stall converter for the cutting off in traffic
I have stage 2 HRT cam and I’m having the exact same problem minus the dying. I personally believe it’s the tuner. I’m FBO E85 & only gained 30whp from the cam which was a disappointing based on what was spent on cam and install
Yes, cam wise, it was about a 30 to 35whp gain. Especially after they show their dyno charts stating 85whp gains
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 not to mention she really doesn’t even chop unless I’m Idling in drive. Other than that it almost sounds stock. So I’m really hoping it’s the tuner just so I don’t feel like I wasted 4k
have u figured out the issue? my dad has a stage 2 cam in his cobra and he only gained like 30 but thats because the shop messed up his car when rebuilt and the tune was shit
@@matta5112 yea it was the tuner he didn’t know what he was doing had everything all messed up. I now run a frp tomahawk 2.0
Good job...sound good...did u change to a bigger torque converter...they say that will help with the surge problem...
I was going to. But, several people that have told me they still have the same issue. Modern Red Hemi has a You Tube channel. I asked him if he did a stall and he said yes but still surges on him.
I know it's the tune now. I traded this in and got a scat now and a friend bought it. He did a data log for Flyin Ryan performance. He sent back a picture of how horrible the tune was. I wish I would have kept it. I put a lot into it and I knew when they got the tune down there would be some more horsepower.
DID YOU ADD A PHASER LIMITER OR LOCK ON THE CAM PHASER??? I See a lot of ppl commenting about a high stall converter which would definitely help but adjusting the cams range should’ve helped immediately? No?
The kit came with a phase limiter. I was going to do a higher stall converter next, but I was already 12k into the car at this point and that one guy Red Hemi said he did a higher stall converter and still has those same issues, but his doesn't usually die on him like mine did at a stop sign.
Because at idle you not getting oil to lubricate the can with 5.7
What did it Dyno? I have a 6.4 manifold on my RT. I want a cam and long tubes.
After everything, it was 405hp to wheels and then after the 6.4 intake manifold with mds box added with the manifold, it was retuned and final numbers were 415hp to wheels and 400 in torque.
Sounds great, but the tail lights bug me, inside of them is higher than the outside 😌
Yeah, it was repaired the next day. Like I said in the video, I had just gotten the car back from the body shop. They delivered because I had Covid-19 at the time. They had to replace the whole section.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 awesome I thought it was factory like that because I seen a couple like that before
Hey bro,just watched you're video,nice chally .that tune still needs some work.
That idle is pretty high .if you get it down it v will lope more .I also used hemi fever.his tunes suck never could get it right even after 12 revisions.then I done a dyno tune with hp,I still wasn't happy had alot of the issues you're having with surg and such. Then I done a email tune with Jay Green racing and he is awesome. Car runs great idle low with no issues .
He has mine idling at 700 it sounds great. Might think of giving him a try. I have all the same mods as you .running comp 270 cam .might want to give him a try if you're guy can't get it to you're liking .
Hey sick car !
After adding the cam, headers, intake and cat back how much hp does the car make now?
I have to get it dyno tuned one more time since the intake was added. Right now, 405hp to the wheels, close to 465 hp at the crank. We are hoping with the ported to 92mm 6.4 intake manifold and Hellcat throttle body and tune close to 425hp to the wheels.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 thank you so much !
Nice car man. Where does it idle once it gets warm and starts to lope.
About 900rpm
Just installed this cam kit on my 05 rumble bee. Slowly working tune now. You should upload a video of how it sounds once warm
did you buy the full kit for cam hrt stage 2 or just the camshaft itself? lmk
This is the dream set up for my R/T
Where do you get your car tuned? I also have a 2015 challenger rt and im in oklahoma so where do you go?
If it is mostly stock, I would just do a Hemifever tune. Cam and other work, I had it dyno tuned at Deep Stage Tuning in Norman. It had to be retuned by email by Flyin Ryan Performance.
Sound like u gotta upgrade your stall converter too same problem I’m having
Will installing a stall converter or flash converter help with your idle lift or surge while your at a red light?
Some people say it will, but I know 3 people who installed a stall converter and they still have the same issue. Modern Red Hemi has a channel and he confirmed this as well.
The last tune cleared this up.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 so it's smooth from idle to high rpm now?
@@riology2234 I sold the car to a friend. He had fine tuned by Flyin Ryan performance. I feel like that cammed sound isnt as noticeable, but it's there and runs smooth.
Bro you are in Norman ok? I live in Yukon. I have a 21 RT and want to do cams. I have questions for you!
Very nice challenger! Sounds great. I have a 2011 srt. With a ken belle 2.8. I’m looking to add to the motor with a nice blower cam. Do you have the specs. For that cam?
I am not sure how I would attach to this post, but the spec sheet is available through Comp Cams website. They make a stage 2 for the 5.7 that is designed for procharged or turbo applications as well
Try MMX S/C cam
Did you use springs from comp cams? And did you use the limiter or lockout for the phaser.
Springs from comp cams and phase limiter
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 ok awesome cause I got a comp cams kit for my jeep and people say the comp cam springs break
Shouldve went with a 6.1 intake makes more midrange power than the 6.4
The 6.1 makes more midrange if the active runners are not on the intake. If the active runners are on the intake the 392 intake makes way more power.
The old 6.1 aluminum intake?. There meant for top end and boosted applications because it’s aluminum it won’t break under boost where as The 6.4 active runner intake increases mid range because of the runner activates from long to short runner mode at an rpm range Something like that
@@cosmo8465 the 6.1 one is meant for na but still can be used with boost. Same with the 6.4.
@@Sak-zo1ui yes exactly, but aluminum is stronger then plastic, so for boosted applications using a centrifugal supercharger. It’s better to use the old 6.1 aluminum intake.
@@cosmo8465 yes if you are going for crazy boost numbers. But for how expensive they are the edelbrock victor 2 is cheaper and has been proven to flow a little better than the 6.1.
wow nice set up and thank you for sharing. I think you should go with a hellcat throttle body it is easier for e mail tuner to start with an already existing map a ported intake with a ported throttle body need a wideband tune or dyno tuned or you risking to lean up and blow up that nice sounding piston of yours
was wondering specifically what you had to do to the challenger. i know you had to tune it but what else? im new to modding cars never done anything like adding a cam or headers.- 2022 durango rt -
I will say it would have been a little cheaper if I had the longtubes installed while having the engine work done.
I bought the Base tune in advance. I had to send my cam specs and the other mods I was doing to Hemifever to create a start up safe tune until you can data log. After data logging, send it back by email. He will send you a revised tune.
Sounds like when I shat my pants that one time in bandcamp.
Well, it was band camp
What was your power gains? I’m looking into goin with the same cam. I got a 2019 300 with the 5.7, JLT intake, engine and trans tune, ported throttle body, high flow cats, and shorty headers
My baseline before mods was 331 bwhp. Final to date is 415 bwhp.
Yo man sick car, what is your tires size setup?
305/35/20 in the back and I kept 245/45/20 in the front
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 I’m glad I’m not the only one who did that, got the exact same tire setup on mine and I love the stance it gives it, you can see it but it’s not too pronounced
Where did you get those exhaust tips
It came with the Borla Atak system.
Still happy with the tune? Also in Oklahoma, I have a 2017 Challenter T/A 6 speed and will soon be in need of a tuner that speaks fluent MOPAR. Stunning car man!
Thank you. I know longer have this car. I traded it in for a Scat Pack. Sold that scat and bought another 2020 Scatpack Challenger last month in the Go Mango orange color. Get with Flyin Ryan Perfomance if using email tune.
Did you get it figured out
I believe so. After I added the 6.4 intake, that changed a lot of the surging for some reason. I had it retuned last Saturday. He did some drive tuning. Its much better now. He changed it back to stock and reloaded his modified street tune. It runs great now. I didn't get to do my dyno because of a cracked rotor on the back passenger side. It was cracked in half. Power Stop is sending another for free.
Once I get that on Friday when I'm off, I will do some more driving around.
Plan to dyno probably after Christmas. I have 7 kids, so money is tight until then.
Also, I did get the 3.09 lsd installed. I had someone on FB harp on me about saying it's the same gearing, what a waste of money. I just said, Well, I was spinning on one wheel, now I have 2 wheels to the ground for traction.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 Yours is Road and Track edition?
If not, did you have to upgrade axles? I've read somewhere that with the 2.62 I have I can't just swap rear end, I have to swap axles too because on the 2.62 they are smaller, I think by about 10mm if I remember right, but don't quote me on that.
@@stephenmartin5766 No axles needed upgraded. My RT had a 3.08 which is 230mm and the 3.09 is also 230mm. Direct fit with no issues on that. Except you need to update the gearing ratio in the tune. Not much difference in the gearing but one is lsd.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 I thought the 2.62 had 220mm rear axles, so I've read anyways. I don't have the track pack
Have you solved your learching issue?? About to install this cam kit in my ram 1500 5.7 with headers and high volume melling oil pump, and s&b cold air intake. Just wondering if it’s solved and what to look for
Finding the right people that are heavily experienced with tuning modern hemis.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 where's the 1500 with cam???
A really seasoned tuner and a stall convertor.
I have the same car but a 2019 would I have to get a tuner for a mmx na lope cam? And if so would a Diablo itune work?
Any cam will need a tune unless you purchase the new No Tune cam from MMX for a 5.7 and possibly for the 6.4 now.
You can use email tunes and use a diablosport tuner, but not diablosport already preloaded canned tunes.
After you purchase the cam, you would email the tuner all the specs from the spec sheet from your cam and any other modifications you have made.
They will send a basic start up tune. You will data log some basic driving first and send email it back.
They will modify again and do some pulls from 0 to 60, 30 to 80mph, and maybe a 45 to 100 pulls. Data log those, email it back, and usually they will do one last tune that should work.
How much hp did the cam add?
Having dyno tuned again in 2 weeks, right now, just the cam alone was close to 40hp to the back wheels.
Hemi fever sucks,thats youre problem .
Contact Jay with Jay Green racing.
He will have it running perfect within 2 revisions .
My comp 270 cam added 60
By any chance did u get any strong gas smell like raw fuel before the tune?
I don't recall. I know it was smelling rich with the first base tune for start up.
Ohhh okay I'm having the same issue with the surging coming in to stop lights rn got a base tune but By the looks of it I need to get it dyno tuned.
What tires are those??? I'm looking for good looking performance tires.
305/35/20s in the back.
BF Goodrich Sport
How long have you had the cam, mines did that with the 270 cam but once the springs loosen up it will stop
It was only in since July 28th 2020. But the recent tune took care of all that with Fylin Ryan Performance. Does great with hemis.
Did you ever put a torque converter in it to stop the surging
No never did. After the 3rd tuner, I just traded it in for a Scat. Then anothrr Scat. Now a new RT with headers being put on as we speak. Im going to post a video of it with a stock dyno.
I plan to use the same dyno everytime. Dyno is also scheduled immediately after headers and tune installed.
But anywho bad ass 5.7 brotha sounds wicked
So I’m looking to swap out my cam on my 2015 r/t do you have a link for everything that was needed?
www.compcams.com/stage-2-hrt-220-230-max-power-hydraulic-roller-master-cam-kit-for-dodge-57-64l-hemi-w-vvt-2009-cpg.html
This will give everything you need for the cam kit. But you will need a gasket and seal kit as well.
does this have a stall speed? what is your lock up at?
That is the one thing I did not do. I wish I had. After I sold it, I was told by a tuner that a stall of 3k to 3200 would have helped.
Did you have to run a stall?
Not yet. I have issue with surging at idle sometimes, or when holding the breaks down at a stoplight. I was told the right size stall converter, between 2800 and 3400, it alleviates that issue.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 2800 if your not going to do much racing and 34 to 3800 if you are
have you tried a higher stall TORQ converter
What does it run at the track I want to do this. It I have been smoking cammed rts with my setup stock block. Afraid to upgrade and go slower
What do you have?
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 09 rt,with suspension work,gears,intake manifold swap and stall and e85 runs 12.0 and 10.9 spraying
@@seriouzfilmz9397 wat size shot
@@lifewithflex4471 150
Is your cam phaser locked out?
No
any super charger plans yay or nay?
Yes for my new Challenger
Can i jump straight to stage 3 or do i have to first get stage 1 and 2?????
This isn't like the mopar scat pack kits.
Stage 1,2, or 3 with comp cams are different size cams.
Can you drop a link for the exact cam you're using?
It is the Comp Cams HRT Stage 2.
www.compcams.com/stage-2-hrt-220-230-max-power-hydraulic-roller-master-cam-kit-for-dodge-57-64l-hemi-w-vvt-2009-cpg.html
Lower the intake breather hose or hole on the CAI and ur problem is fixed
What mods you have lost them plz ?
Borla atak 3" exhaust. Stainless Works longtube headers with high flow cats. Injen cai. Hellcat throttle body and adapter on a 6.4 intake manifold. Programmed the long and short runners with and mds box. Stage 2 HRT comp cams. Hellcat replicas, with 305/35/20 in rear, 275/40/20in front, z26 road warrior package drilled and slotted rotors with carbon fiber/ceramic brake pads.
Of course a tune. Oh, upgraded interior to laguna leather srt seats heated and vented.
where did you find your 6.4 intake?
Just shopped around on FB.
If you had a Manuel like mine, you wouldn't have that many problems with the cam
So dyno tuning is the best bet?
With someone who tunes newer hemis often.
What brake set up you got ?
It's the z26 power stop set that comes with ceramic and carbon fiber pads and the red calipers.
It really needed better brakes after all the power was added to it. Was very hard to slow down.
What’s the stall speed on the torque converter?
Factory
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 Is that why the car seems like shooting off when you change from Parking to Reverse?
@@andershilbert8913 reverse in gear, and drive at idle speed. But it is taken care of now. Flyin Ryin Performance got it dialed in. No issues. HP Tuning instead.
@@brokelahomachickenfry6497 great! You should post a video to see how it is after
Be really careful with Hemifever, if you are using his tune as a base. I have the same cam with some port work and Doug Thorley tri-y headers and couldn't get him to even respond to emails. I bought HPTuners and have learned to tune on my own, and found his Diablo tune had turned off the knock sensors on his tune for my car when it was stock.
I also had a huge issue with surge and basically flooding at low rpms. After remapping the fuel mass, my 5.7 idles at 700 on a warm day tune and I have to bump it to 728rpm for colder weather.
You need a different tc it’s staying locked up.
Any tuning issues?
Yes. The base tune after install was drivable, barely. Did 9 more email tunes, never quite right. Took it for dyno tune and adjustments after that 5 more times. After 20mph it was great and a beast to drive, but in town driving, at stop signs and lights, any time idle in gear either it would surge and jerk like crazy or the new tune would not jerk but would just die repeatedly.
Nice!
Any driving videos
No. At the time, I had Covid-19. After that, I started having issues with surging, shake like crazy at stop signs or lights.
Tuned again, died at stop signs or stop lights. Tuned again, back to shaking. Then last guy dyno and said he thought I was starting to have transmission issues.
So, panicked, traded it in for a Scat Pack. A friend bought it. Just needed a 3400 stall converter and tuned.
Now I have a 22 that I just did a video of before stock dyno, and a dyno after the Stainless Works(Power) long tubes and high flow cats.
Also, decided on a friendlier cam and bought a 6.4 non-mds cam, non-mds lifters, .600 springs, and all gaskets and seals.
Will get installed soon, tuned on dyno, and then post that video.
Just want everyone to see dynos of before and after including stock.
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
OKLAHOMA GANGG!!
Wit did u do too it
All together; Hellcat replicas staggered, 10.5 rims with 305/35/20 tires on rear and 9" rims on front with the 245/45/20 tires, z36 front and back brake kit with thebred calipers, 3.09 lsd differential installed, Injen CAI, with 6.4 intake manifold and hellcat throttle body, Stage 2 HRT Comp Cams master cam kit, Stainless Works Longtube headers with high flow cats, Hellcat leather interior installed heated and vented seats, and tuned several times.
Before the 6.4 intake manifold with msd box for short and long runners active and before the hellcat tb, it was 409whp and 389 torque. I wish I had a dyno afterwards and the retune.
I traded it in and started over on a new 22 Challenger RT.
I am documenting everything I am doing to it. I am going to experiment and do just the cam first with a before and after dyno to show what a no tune, no springs required MMX cam for the 5.7 gives to the wheel horsepower. They say the cam can be tuned as well, but trying to see if it does as advertised.
Finding someone who can really tune and dial these hemis in locally is difficult.
I plan to post it on You Tube.
I figured if it ran on stock tune, then you could install this and the advertised 30whp would be a great upgrade without the dealership detecting you have had work done.
If not, then I will go to another Comp Cam again. I want to see what a cam alone does.
Then add power adders like headers, cai, and tb.
I plan to dyno every time before and after each mod and also use the same dyno every time for consistency.
What’s your Instagram I’m here in Oklahoma as well
less yappin more chops
Slight misfire but I like it 👍🏽
Thats a performance cam
❤🇺🇸❤
Had same issue with the same tuner Hemifever......I bought HP Tuner software and working on it myself and now have it doing well. Never tuned before so it took me a while to figure it out. Hope you have your straightened out. @hammersrt
Hemifever really sucks