Wahuda 8" Benchtop Jointer with Spiral Carbide Cutter Head Review and Setup Tips
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- Price on Amazon: amzn.to/2ziqIQ3
Wahuda's website: www.wahudatools.com/8in-bench...
The Wahuda 50180CC-WHD has a ton of upgrades over a normal benchtop jointer, including a spiral carbide cutter head, cast iron infeed/outfeed tables, and an 8" capacity. www.wahudatools.com/8in-bench...
Cheap Feeler Gauges (needed for setup): amzn.to/3cda2rv
USA Made Feeler Gauges (true stainless, don't come bathed in machine oil): amzn.to/2zrBrqY
One more note - Wahuda watched my review video and let me know there are nylon set screws on either side of the extension arms that can be adjusted to let it slide easier. 
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I recently ordered and setup my wahuda 8" jointer. The newest model no longer requires you to remove the bolts and washer to adjust the table. There is now a set screw to the left and right of each bolt. One for up and one for down, just simply adjust each spot with your stright edge in place. So much easier now!
Wow, I ordered mine in February 2020 shortly after they were first available. I'm surprised they're already making improvements, but it sounds like a great upgrade!
@@DoresoomReviews I'm not seeing pics on their site reflecting those upgrades. I'm sold either way, and will hopefully have one soon.
I spoke with Wahuda - apparently it was a CuTech patent conflict that mandated the change.
Can you please give me assistance on adjusting mine i just got it and messed it up trying to adjust
Been into amateur/DYI woodworking for about a year. A few months purchased my first jointer; didn’t have a good experience with that jointer and could not get co-planned. Recently purchased a Wahuda jointer. I understand the importance of co-planned, but I was really reluctant to make any adjustments. I found your video. Your demonstration and explanation made it is easier and gave me confidence. With the aide of your video I made a slight adjustment to the out feed side. Thank you
That was an excellent overview of the machine. I ordered my 6" today and I feel more confident about the adjustment process now. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Great review and instruction! Thank you. I got mine a while ago, but haven't set it up yet and this greatly helps. Subscribed!
Thanks for the awesome review! Glad they put it on their site. I just purchased mine. I didn't think I needed a jointer but some of the end grain cutting board designs I want to create make it necessary for that perfectly square board. Looking forward to getting it and putting it to use.
Just got this jointer today. Still in the box but will be out of it in the morning. Thanks for the great video about it!!
excellent video! very informative and extremely efficient. I wish half of the videos I watched for information were as well done as this one. Thank you!
Table of Contents:
Walkaround Tour: 1:39
Table Setup: 4:48
Extension Arm Setup: 12:33
Performance Discussion (with Action Shots): 13:32
Summary: 15:09
One more note - Wahuda watched my review video and let me know there are nylon set screws on either side of the extension arms that can be adjusted to let it slide easier.
Thanks for the review, one of the best I’ve seen!
I watch reviews about everything I buy...well almost everything... and your is one the best on anything I have watched keep up the great work !
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
I got the 6" one and today, finally, got it set up with your method. Thanks so much! I'm getting shiny perfect 90s!!
Glad you like it. Happy jointing!
Do they ship the product to Indonesia?
really useful information on initial calibration of the table, thank you for this video
Excellent. This is how all reviews should be done. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Glad I'm not the only one that got frustrated when adjusting the tables, and my extension bars are also really tough too. all in all I also think this is a good choice at the price point. Not too much that has to be done to it to get it nice and flat.**Edit: Not sure if mine was an earlier or later version, but to adjust my tables, i have hex bolt, then 2 small hex set screws recessed on each side of the bolts. Your tips still helped me out with adjusting them even though they were different than in the video. Feeler gauge and straight edge is the way to go.
You have the new version - I talked to Wahuda, and they had to change the design a few months after release due to a patent infringement issue with the old CuTech design.
Great review! I bought one also and found (luckily) that it was pretty much a perfect setup out of the box. I thought it was packaged really well too so shipping shouldn't mess with the settings too much. I only had one problem with mine. The plastic dust shroud was cracked upon inspection. I emailed customer service on a Sunday afternoon about it. I couldn't believe it when later that evening I had a reply already. He just wanted me to send a picture of it. He shipped out a new one the next day and I had it installed in 2 more days. Fantastic customer service.
Yeah, I haven't had a direct experience with their customer service, but I'd already heard a few fantastic stories like that. It made me feel even better about deciding on this jointer.
Nice presentation job. And like Lonnie says, I think you made my decision easier on choosing a benchtop jointer as well. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
This was very helpful with setting up my new 8" Wahuda today! Definitely a tedious process that took several hours but man, when its dialed its awesome! Also side note, I think they have changed how the tables are adjusted on my model. Its now the same allen head to secure the top but now comes with two small allen set screws underneath that adjust, no washer either. Nonetheless, thanks for sharing!
Yeah, they had a patent conflict with whoever retained the rights to the CuTech design. Hopefully it's not too different - the tips for adjustment still apply, even if it's a slightly different mechanism.
Great video, thanks. I have the new 10” on order.
Thanks for taking the time to post this. Wahuda should pay you or send you some free tools or something. I bought one basically because of this video.
Yes, very detailed. I wish some of my other tools i bought had a detailed setup/informative style video like this.
After watching your vid I ordered one! Ordered it on a Monday and received it Thursday afternoon! That was nice!
First off the cutter head is not Helical or a Spiral, I would call it a straight segmented cutter head. It does work well but not so much on figured woods. The one I have does have 4 sided cutters that are numbered for easy identifying! The bed adjusters have been changed that use small allen screws that sit next to the main holding screws which makes adjusting much easier than the exercise you had to go through.
The table extensions were a lot easier to move in and out so they appeared to have fixed that issue! Dust collection on this unit is better than average! I am using the 4" port which is hooked to a 750 CFM machine. It could use a few extra air holes to make it more efficient and less noisy when using that type of dust extractor. I will be trying it with a shop vac to see if the results are just as good.
The things I don't like: As you had pointed out, the fence attachment point which is flimsy and not as precise as it should be and probably the worst thing about the machine. Any side pressure causes fence deflection so if you are cutting on a 45 it is possible to make crooked cuts if you are not careful. They should have used cast iron or tool Aluminum for these parts.
The plastic adjuster handles, No change here, for a few extra bucks Aluminum ones would have been a nice touch! I see a niche aftermarket here!
The cast iron beds, The material is pretty thin and probably explains why there is a dip of a few thou in the middle of them. Maybe not a deal breaker at this price point but something for people to be aware of. After having adjusted the beds, the machine I received the out feed was off by 0.10" and the infeed was out by 0.23" not bad considering.
The last thing that bugs me is the thickness gauge indicator. It's a sticker and has no calibration adjustment. It is nowhere close to 0 when the table is at 0 so any adjustments are just a reference from where ever the pointer is sitting. A dial or digital indicator would make a nice additions here which is what I'm going to do!
All in all for the $550 shipped to your door this jointer is a pretty good deal! I must say I am getting really nice square cuts! I would say that the target market is the DIY'er or the guy that has a small shop/business that needs the occasional jointer. The mentioned issues are part of the price point and thus are things that need to be considered! it is not a $1500 floor standing jointer.
Great observations!
I agree about the slightly flimsy aluminum fence and the plastic handles for it. These could be better with little additional cost. I don't mind the thickness "gauge". I basically just run the same minimal cutting depth for everything, and just repeat as needed.
Very good and thorough video. Well presented.
Thank you.
Thank you I just purchased one very informative :)
Definitely on my list. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent review, thanks!
Great review and even better description on how to adjust the outfeed and infeed tables. I bought a King Industrial 8" benchtop jointer, which is almost identical to the Wahuda. In my case, the tables were slightly off (outfeed table was a .001 too low, and the infeed was .012" higher at the blade), which gave me slightly bowed edges on my work pieces. But following your instructions, I was able to fine tune the tables within an hour. You made an adjustment that some people described as a nightmare fairly straightforward and easy to understand. Thank you very much.
Glad I could help!
Hi this was an excellent presentation. I hope in future you make a video that try several different woods and shapes.
I'm in the process of setting up my new Wahuda jointer and, something that isn't in the directions, but, after cleaning, putting the carbide tips back in, then torquing to recommended specs, do a test cut, or two, then, go back in and check the torque on the screws holding the carbide tips in place. Obviously, unplug before going back to check the torque on the screws!
Great instructions. Thank you.
No problem, glad I could help!
Great review, Im sold
I bought six inch WAHUDA, love it.,
Very informative and helpful. Thank you.
Glad I could help!
Great review! Thanks!
Great presentation!
Thanks for the video I thought it was very comprehensive. I bought the previous 8" Cutech version of this pre-owned over the summer but haven't had time to dig in on it yet. This will definitely come in handy for checking how well the last owner had it dialed in and making any needed adjustments. I was within a day or so of buying this one but the guy gave me a really good deal on the Cutech so I couldn't really pass it up. Glad to hear you're getting good results!
Yeah, I was actually planning on buying the CuTech from my previous research, but when I went to purchase I discovered it had been rebranded as Wahuda with the cast iron table upgrade. Decided to pull the trigger anyway and I'm glad I did. I meant to mention the CuTech/Wahuda transition in the review, but completely forgot!
@@DoresoomReviews yeah the wahuda has a couple nice upgrades, especially being able to use all 4 sides of the cutters instead of 2. They were supposed to have a new planer coming out but it got delayed. Interested to see that when they release it.
I just saw and Instagram post of theirs for a 10" jointer too. Not out yet, but in development.
very helpful, thanks man
Thanks, helped a lot.
very nice review, thanks!
New subscriber here... I think you just made my decision on a jointer.... Thanks brother appreciate it
Glad I could help!
@@DoresoomReviews \
My only problem is vibration. While it doesn’t seem to be an issue, during use bolts work loose. Make sure ALL nuts, bolts and thumbscrews are tight before you start. I also feel it’s a good value for a 8” jointer. Perfect for the occasional worker.
I haven't had anything come loose, but I did crank everything down pretty hard.
Great review and walkthrough! You have hit on the same points that I have found with the jointer.
I've noticed some wiggle on the infeed table, no matter how tightly the screws are, even when it's locked. It seems to be some play in the mechanism that rides along the rails to adjust the height. Sometimes its worse when lowering and locking vs raising and locking. One trick I found to make it solid is to lock it down, and then slightly turn the knob to raise the table a little. It stays solid, but sometimes forces the table out of alignment a bit. I sent a video to customer service and promptly received a replacement unit, however there is still a similar amount of wiggle. Should not be a huge problem as long as I don't joint super heavy material. But it's my biggest complaint. It's easy noticable if you try to rock the infeed table up/down by the end of the extension wing.
Thanks for the heads up! I hadn't noticed that on mine, I'll have to check and see if it does it.
Also, do you have the table adjustment mechanism mine does, or the newer design that they had to implement to avoid a patent conflict?
@@DoresoomReviews both styles actually. I bought my original one during the early bird special, and it has the same adjustment style as yours.
The replacement was with new style, which takes some getting used to, but it's overall easier I think. However, I don't like how the heavy cast iron is essentially resting on the tiny adjustment screws on either side of the large screw. It doesn't give me as much confidence in the level being long lasting.
I saw the "loose" infeed table issue on both units. I'd be curious if others have it as well. It's quite a bit of movement when you see the end near the cutter head move almost 1/16 of an inch.
It's pretty clear to me that the slop is in the mechanism. Once you lock the table, and then adjust the height, it essentially takes up the slop and is rock solid. However, when you do this, it forces the table out of co-planer, which renders the jointer useless.
They have been very responsive and helpful, but I fear that the issue may just be in the design and manufacturing. Something I have to live with on a jointer of this style.
@@vipervt09 I see the same slop in my 6" jointer. Have you figured out the issue?
@@JohnDoe-uu5pc I believe so. I think the slop is within the adjustment mechanism/rail, where the indeed table slides up/down. I notice the following, if I find my desired height, and lock down the table, I will see the slop. However, after locking down, if I continue to raise/lower the table just slightly, I can see that the slop is taken up and the table is perfectly stable, with no wobble (however it is not co-planer when you do this). Try it out and see if your issue is the same as mine.
In the end, I think it is something inherent to this type of planer design, and I try to live with it, until I upgrade to a large cabinet style jointer.
@@vipervt09 Thanks, I will give that a try. Not sure being not co-planer does any good though. However I typically plane everything so that should fix that issue.
I have the 6” WEN version of this jointer. It works great. I was pleasantly surprised. My previous jointer was a 6” long bed Jet. Not having to set straight knives is the best part!
Good job on the review.
Thanks!
Thanks for this great video. I just ordered mine. Is there a video of the extension tables you made?
Not yet, still working on it!
Great video. Huge help as I decide what to get. Do you have a video for creating the outfeed tables? Thanks!
Glad I could help! Still working on the infeed/outfeed table video.
I just got the 10" jointer today...going through the learning curve of making sure it's setup correctly and that I know how to get good results for glue ups. I like that it's compact and also quiet. Not getting super clean edges...yet. They still have chatter. Leaning how to reduce that.
Nice! I knew they were working on a 10" model, but didn't know it shipped yet. Looks like a beast!
@@DoresoomReviews Ok. I've done some work with the 10" jointer. I am getting visually tapered boards. Checked my setup per the manual and the outfeed near the cutter is exactly like it says in the manual...cutter tips touch the level but does not move the level. My table flatnesses are about 0.006"; there is a .006" dip in the middle of the table on both infeed and outfeed. Could this be the reason for my tapered boards? Should I return this one and try another one?
Sorry, I just saw this reply. I'm not sure what the cause could be, it looks like there are lots of factors. This article has a lot of suggestions from more seasoned woodworkers than me for things you could check: www.woodworkersjournal.com/fix-tapering-jointer/
@@DoresoomReviews I believe my table is defective, so I will likely have to return it.
@@MixingGBP I was curious how or if your issue was resolved. I don’t own a jointer yet but was considering this one. One thing I know about a jointer is that it’s meant to get ONE side flat and one edge flat and at 90 degrees. From there you use your table saw to achieve parallel sides and a planer to get parallel faces. I doubt this has anything to do with your issue but thought I’d mention it.
I can´t make the adjustments to the table with the small Allen key, it doesn't fit, what I ´m doing wrong?
Excellent video. I think I am leaning toward the 8-inch Wahuda. Any thoughts on the new 10-inch model? Your video is well-edited, has very good audio, and gets right to the point. By the way, what microphone are you using?
Thanks! You'll love the 8" model. As far as the 10" one goes, as long as they kept the tolerances they did with this one, I'd think it would be great. It wasn't even an option when I bought this one, so I hadn't looked into it too much though.
I'm using a Pixel MK-7 wireless microphone transmitter/receiver, with the standard lapel mic that shipped with it: amzn.to/389n4FJ
I've used mine for a couple days now and noticed just how much flex there is in the fence. Did you have any issues with that? It's really affecting the edge jointing.
I hadn't noticed any problems with mine. I just went and pushed really hard against the fence, and there's definitely some flex there. I must be applying lighter pressure when I use the tool, since I haven't seen it affecting my work.
Great review, excellent presentation. I noticed you didn't include info on removing and cleaning the carbide cutters before use. Did yours not need cleaning?
They did, I forgot to put that in the video. I covered it in the Wahuda planer review I did though. It's pretty much the same cutterhead design in that one, just longer. ruclips.net/video/E03Vt01Epkg/видео.html
@@DoresoomReviews I did not remove & clean my jointer inserts on arrival, and noticed no problems with their alignment or cleanliness.
Just got mine; a few differences in the instructions, but overall, it arrived in good shape. I'm curious if you went through the exercise of making the in-feed and out-feed tables level because they were out beyond acceptable tolerance from the unboxing? I intend to put my aluminum carpenter level across it before starting, but I would expect that the 'factory' setup should be well within any imposed tolerances. Or am I deluding myself?
Always check. Mine was about 0.0065" out of alignment from the factory if I remember correctly. They changed the design of the leveling mechanism after I did this video due to a patent conflict, but it should still be generally the same process.
Did you ever build upgrades for infeed/outfeed tables?
Another question about the cutters: are the cutting edges parallel to the edge of the outfeed table or are they skewed slightly like you would a plane iron? Parallel = spiral cutting head. Shewed = helical cutting head (MUCH BETTER).
They're parallel, so it's not a helical design.
As far as the carbide heads, they are much better than most cutter heads for wear and tear, and, most importantly, once you've rotated one of them 90° the fourth time, it's pretty cheap to replace JUST THAT ONE, rather than having to replace whole blades and then check them for position.
just wondering, you could cut longer boards on this jointer aslong as you build your own supports right?
Exactly! The general rule of thumb is you can joint a board straight up to twice the length of the infeed table.
I feel like I might just attach a level peace of something to the indeed outfeed to make permanent extensions if I buy this
I never heard of this make before but it looks pretty decent especially with the spiral cutters but a little bit too small for my liking, I also like the spring loaded safety guard on the table but unfortunately I cannot find it for sale in my country (Poland)
Glen Fiddich 🥃
I think all jointers are required to have that type of safety guard in the US. I don't know if they have any distributors in Poland though, sorry.
My red safety "bar" seems to sag and sceatch the table. Any tips on adjusting it? Doesn't seem like many adjustments are possible
You could try shimming the bracket at the top where it meets the base.
Just bought one.
How are you liking it so far? I’m looking for a jointer
I was wondering on your opinion on the new Jet - 6" Helical Head Benchtop Jointer Model 718600? I really wish it was 8" but i have an extremely small space to work in and have to move both cars out of garage. Thanks, keep up with the great reviews!
That looks like a great jointer. The helical head should provide better performance to reduce tearout in figured woods, and the cast iron fence is a big upgrade from this one's aluminum one. If space is a factor, then a bench top machine makes sense. But if I was going to spend much more than this Wahuda cost on a jointer myself, I'd be looking for one with a longer bed.
@@DoresoomReviews True, the bed is only 29 inches and is costly, as much as a grizzly full sized 6 inch. I think the cost is in the true helical head, chip blower, and cast iron fence. I am just not sure why they went with the shorty fence, boggles my mind and one thing i can think of is that is the only length they could machine straight (hope not, but never owned a jet product) or leftover materials. I am going to roll the dice with this and if need be see if i can make some outfeed/infeed supports mabey out of uhmw/laminated mdf. If my gamble doesnt pay off, at least i will be able to make highly figured wood bird houses .... Thanks again for the advice and when I get more room I believe I will get a 12" behemoth that will require me to take out a 2nd mortgage and possibly a kidney. I will chime in when after it arrives and i have time to fiddly with it, but one thing is certain, if they cannot get a a 29 inch bed straight, its going back in a hurry.
Hello, how are the carbide inserts holding up to hardwood? Have you had to do many rotations? How long does an edge last?
They're holding up great with what I'd say is light hobby use. Walnut and red oak mostly. No rotations needed yet.
Well done
Thanks bro. I'm in the process of decision making for my own Joiner and this sounds like a great deal. Is it made in the USA? I live in IRELAND so I think it'd be very hard to get that over here though which is a real shame. I can get one for about 700 Euros or near abouts. Maybe 650 even but I like how easy this one sets up. I know Erbauer do a planer/Jointer-Thicknesser for about 220 English pounds atm and I will look at that too. I'm only starting out on my woodworking journey so I don't want to be spending a huge sum in the beginning of it all. I want to wait and see if a Jointer will be needed down the line so I will probably take the cheaper route atm.
I wanna say thanks for the heads up anyways bro.. Keep up the great work too man..
It's made in Taiwan, but Wahuda bases their business out of Tennessee here in the US.
Question: I’ve seen issues on other brands with the fence not staying at 90*. Have you had any issues with the fence?
No issues so far.
Good review. How many cutters in the head? In how many rows? With only a 10 Amp motor it seems underpowered for an 8" jointer. 10 Amp = about 1.36 HP. Is the fence cast iron also or aluminum? Does the dust vent get ALL the chips or do some fall through the case and remain on the table underneath? These are all issues I had with another bench top jointer and I want to avoid them.
Thanks, excellent questions. There are 16 cutters in four rows of 3 and two rows of 2. It's an 8" jointer with a 10A motor, and my DW735 planer is 12.5" with a 15A motor, so I think it's scaled appropriately if you look at power per cutterhead length. The fence is extruded aluminum. Dust collection is excellent, and got every little chip. I had it hooked up to a 1.5 HP dust collector with a 4" diameter hose.
Mark, Actually, 10 amps equates to about 1.6 HP. Knowing 746 watts equals 1 HP, and to gets watts you multiply current (10 amps) times voltage (in this case 120 volts) you get 1200 watts. 1200 watts divided by 746 gives you 1.6 HP.
@@migi4993 you are correct mostly. You must multiply the 1.6 by .85 to get the efficiency of the motor. Do that and you get 1.36hp.
Thank you for the review! I bought the jointer after watching your review. I`m having some problems with the adjustments of the table, do you know if there are some changes in the newest models?
Yes, they changed the table leveling design after I bought mine due to the threat of a patent infringement lawsuit. I guess someone else retained the rights to the CuTech design when they rebranded as Wahuda.
@@DoresoomReviews when trying to join two pieces, I get a bow in the middle, any advice or tip? I would really appreciated
That sounds like maybe the outfeed table isn't lined up perfectly with the cutter head. Troubleshooting jointer problems can be tricky though, so I can't say for sure.
@@JM-qi2gs Had this same problem, went back and adjusted outfeed table to be PERFECTLY level with cutter head blades. This is CRITICAL.
Shooting a slight hollow is far better than shooting a belly. Even preferred for edge joining.
Great video review. Since you've had it for a while now. Do you still like it? And does it handle hardwoods well?
I still like it. Hardest woods I've used it with are red oak and walnut, so nothing crazy. It gets a little slower with full width boards, but still does great.
@@DoresoomReviews Thanks for getting back to me. I'm thinking of getting the 10". Got my hands on a bunch of red oak and I'm a little sketchy on wether it will handle it. Most of my boards won't be over 6 or 7". And the 10" has a little more power. Thinking on pulling the trigger tomorrow.
Thanks for the review. Great job. No nonsense. I have a decent 11" planer but want a jointer to ensure 90's for laminating boards etc. Would this or any jointer take care of that for me?
Yes, a jointer is the tool for that. The three tools needed for milling lumber are a jointer, planer, and table saw. Get an adjacent face and edge flat and perpendicular with the jointer, then rip the opposite edge straight and plane the opposite face flat. I got by with just a table saw with a straight line rip jig and my planer with a jointing jig for quite some time, but a jointer is faster and less of a headache to use once set up.
Thanks for your prompt reply. You wouldn't happen to have a photo of that jointer jig for your planer?
It's actually just a flat piece of MDF, some shims, and hot glue: instagram.com/p/BeW87Z8lEbn/?igshid=1ww1atlb4as38
@@DoresoomReviews Thanks. I watched that mini video. I thought it was something more elaborate to get a 90 that a jointer would give you. But still, it's a good idea for salvaging good wood that's a little warped. I'm more of a hobbyist than a carpenter so dropping $450 on a mediocre jointer is a little tough.
@@DoresoomReviews Do You have a jointer? If so, what brand is it and do you like it?
Thanks
What is the depth of jointer (front to back), including the bracket in the back for the fence adjustment? Thanks.
Just under 20" with the fence pushed to the back edge of the tables. It would be even deeper if you wanted to do rabbets with it.
I also just discovered they have precise measurements on their website: www.wahudatools.com/category-s/217.htm
Time for me to just sit for a bit. Out of the box mine seemed fine. Now months later I seriously checked it and I’ve spent days trying to get the tables dialed in. Hoping this video is the one that gets me smiling.
Gteat! Do you have a link for the larger orange push blocks?
They're the Bench Dog Push-Blocs: amzn.to/2WCxCaP
They work pretty well, although lately I've been considering pulling the trigger on these Microjig ones: amzn.to/3aHHOr7
where did you get a .001" feeler gauge? Every set I've checked out goes down only to .0015, after that they get stupid expensive.
My set is minimum 0.0015". I just called it flat to 0.001" since I couldn't get the gauge under.
How can you tell if the indeed table isn’t correct??
It should be perfectly parallel with the outfeed table. So if you reference a straight edge off of the outfeed table, the infeed table should be the same height from the the straight edge at every point. I cover how to do this in depth starting at 10:43.
After adjusting the infeed and and outfeed tables the depth of cut gauge is off. I do not see anyway to get that in sync with the the cut depth. Is there some sort of adjustment that I am missing?
I don't think there's a built-in way to adjust it. How far off is it? Unless your jointer was terribly out of alignment from the factory, I'd think it would only be 0.010-0.020" off. The depth scale is really just to gauge the depth of material being removed anyway so it shouldn't be that important. When you rip the other side straight or plane the other face flat is when you need precise depth of cut, both of which are performed on different tools (a table saw or a planer).
If it really bugs you, I suppose you could place some shim stock underneath the indicator, or sand down the indicator a little bit depending on if it's low or high.
@@DoresoomReviews No big deal just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. Thanks
I just recently purchased their 8inch jointer and I’m getting snipe at the end of my cut. Any recommendations.
Try extra infeed/outfeed supports for long boards. And make sure you aren't pushing down directly over the cutterhead. When you reach the end of the board, all your downward pressure should be on the outfeed table.
Also, check to make sure your outfeed table isn't too low. Of the cutter heads are too high in reference to the outfeed table, you can see some snipe. In this video, he checked this using the straight edge, and rotating the cutting head to ensure the cutters were not lifting the straight edge at all. You want the cutters to JUST contact the straight edge, without moving it up at all.
Just started trying to dial in my 10” wahuda. I was shooting for 0.003” separation for outfeed table. Do you think this is room much?
I think that's likely as precise as you'll need.
@@DoresoomReviews thank you
Have you made the extension table id like to see what you have come up with
I designed one, bought materials and hardware, and then got completely distracted with other projects. D'oh! I haven't done any projects requiring the extra length lately, so it hasn't been a priority unfortunately.
I'm about to order one and I'd like to incorporate it into my workbench. My work bench is the size of a sheet of plywood. I was thinking of put it on the long edge of the workbench. But doesn't the infeed have to be lower then the outfeed table. I was tjink of taking my router and taking out a 1/16 of a inch to match it up
I just bought the ten inch. The problem I’m having is that when I adjust the infeed once I have it flat when I lower the Infeed the front of the Infeed lowers more than the back. Any tips?
I hadn't noticed that with mine, but I almost always leave it parked at 1/32" depth. Sounds like the adjustment mechanism is out of alignment - I'd contact Wahuda and see if they have any ideas.
Hi Aaron, did you figure this issue out? I'm having the exact same problem. The front of the infeed(by cutter head) drops almost 3/16 before the back even moves.
Aaron and Tom, you have play in the linkages. Not unusual in any machine. Drop the table past your target, and always make the last adjustment in the up direction.
Does it have its own dust blower fan like the dewalt planer? Or does it need a vacuum hooked up to collect the dust? On my planer I can just hook the hose up to a dust bad and I don’t need a separate vacuum system.
No, unfortunately it doesn't have a built-in blower. I use a portable 4" Delta dust collector with it. I have the DW735 planer too, and that thing will inflate the upper bag on my dust collector with just the planer running!
@@DoresoomReviews thanks do you know of any bench top jointers that do?
None that I know of. Most of them have this same general design and are actually made in the same factory in Taiwan. Each brand will specify their own features like carbide cutters or straight HSS knives, and cast iron vs aluminum tables.
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Heck yeah!
Hey man my wahuda jointer started smoking when i put 12 in long redwood.Any suggestion why?
Is it coming from the belt/motor? Or the wood itself?
@@DoresoomReviews i believe the belt motor because first time i ran it with nothing on it it runned good zero noise or issues.Then i ran it with the wood and it started smoking and doing a weird sound.Then i ran it again and it with nothing on it and it does a very high pitched sound.
That sounds like something's definitely wrong then. I'd contact customer service, especially if it's brand new!
Sounds like the belt isn't tight enough and is slipping/burning under load
I’m not sure if your Milwaukee level is perfectly flat. You would need a reference edge to really check flatness on the cast iron bed. The cast iron cures over time so any discrepancy could be from that.
I have two Milwaukee levels, a 4' and a 6'. I slid them lengthwise past themselves on both sides and had no gaps at all, not even the 0.0015" gauge would fit anywhere. The levels are flat.
how do you think this compares to the rikon?
It looks like the only difference is that the Rikon has aluminum tables instead of cast iron. www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/rikon-20-800h
Given that the Wahuda has cast iron tables and is $100 cheaper, I'd say definitely pick the Wahuda over the Rikon.
What size cutter head does this unit use?
It's a 2" diameter cutter head that's 8" wide. Uses 16 carbide inserts that have 4 indexable sides. You can check out the manual here: www.wahudatools.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/WHD-8-102621.pdf
They also offer a 10" model for about US$150 more than the 8". I'd assert it's worth the extra money, if you can swing it, as it's better to have "too much" jointing capacity than too little. ;-)
Wahuda also has a 13" planer with the same helical cutterhead design, for about US$750. A bit more expensive than some decent planers, but a great price over the same units upgraded with aftermarket helical heads...
They came out with the 10" jointer after I bought this one, or I would have strongly considered it instead! I also reviewed their 13" planer as well. Great machine!
@@DoresoomReviews I have that 10" jointer, in fact I jumped on it as soon as I saw it available. There are no other comparable units and it is the same high quality as yours. Mine came perfectly set up from the factory and has remained that way with my occasional use over the past 3 years, producing beautiful flat, 90 degree surfaces.
When you say "perfectly level with the cutter head", what part of the cutter head do you mean? Would you lay the level on top of the screw that holds the blade once the blade is completely horizontal? Or would the level be placed on the peak of the wheel? Thanks for your help.
The apex of the carbide cutters should be even with the edge of the outfeed table. So at their highest point (the edge as it reaches its peak during rotation). Think of it as the smallest cylinder you can place around the cutterhead. That should be tangent to the outfeed table surface. The goal is for the cutterhead to remove material and the workpiece to transition perfectly onto the outfeed table.
Isn't this a wen? Or vice versa?
These different branded jointers that all look pretty much the same are all made in the same factory in Taiwan. Different brands have different specifications though. This Wahuda has cast iron tables and 4-sided carbide cutters. Many other brands have aluminum tables and HSS knives or cutters, which aren't as high of a quality and don't stay as sharp as long.
after 2 years. would like to ask of the condition after 2 years
Still works great!
@@DoresoomReviews thanks for the response.. will buy this brand..
@@DoresoomReviews also have ypu tried this at heavy works and solid woods.
After 6 months with the 8 inch jointer how are you feeling about it? Still performing for you? or does it have any issues?
Still definitely recommend it, I haven't had any problems so far.
I can't get mine dialed in for love or money. Maddening.
Do they ship to Indonesia?
I have no idea, although their factory in Taiwan is a whole lot closer to Indonesia than the US! I'd try contacting them through their website.
@@DoresoomReviews thank you very much for your help...🙏🏼🙏🏼
Be careful. You might need another push block for that chuck of lumber there.
Great review. Is it any coincidence that the Cutech, Porter Cable, Craftsman, etc, etc. All look the same? I suspect they're all made in China by the same company.
The Wahuda is made in Taiwan. I'm pretty sure they're all made in the same factory, just with individual specs from different brands. As far as I know, Wahuda is the only one with cast iron tables and four-sided inserts. I think the rest have aluminum tables and two-sided inserts.
Rikon 8inch or wahuda?
I'd go Wahuda. They're pretty much the same design, but the Wahuda has cast iron tables instead of aluminum.
@@DoresoomReviews ty man decisions
This thing is about to go back. Noting but trouble. Took a couple hours to get it level. At least, I thought it was lever. Not my bods come out like triangles. Can't get it to flatten anything. So here I sit, watching RUclips, trying to figure our what I am doing wrong.
Does the length of the board end up with a taper, or is it the cross section that ends up out of square?
@@DoresoomReviews There is a tapper. I can't get the outfeed level with the cutter. Been tying for a couple of hours now. Loosen 4 screws, adjust 8 set screws tighten everything down and repeat....
It does sound like the tables aren't lined up with the cutter head. You just need the front edge of the outfeed table tangent with the cylinder of the cutterhead envelope. Get that set up first, then make the whole infeed table parallel to the outfeed table.
Try adjusting only two screws at a time. So only the two closest to the fence. Or the two farthest away from the fence. Or the two at the leading edge of the table. Or the two at the back edge of the table. That way you can focus on tilting the table along one axis at a time.
I can’t wait to stick my hand in the blade like an idiot. I always see people saying the fence moves and is flimsy, but after you showing the back it would be simple to replace the fence if needed.
I hate the fence on this thing with a passion. Table was easy as pie to set up vs this fence, never gets quite right and then after a few boards it goes way outa square
You might want to look into the fence stabilizers they recently released: www.wahudatools.com/product/fence-stabilizer-system/
@DoresoomReviews I actually have those sitting in shop. Just waiting on a metric drill bit to come in.
Hopefully solves issue, or this thing only good for 1s not 2s
I was going to get this but i decided to spend an extra 1500 and get a baileigh 8”
Nice! Was it the IJ-875-HH? The longer bed will be really helpful for bigger boards. Looks like that one comes with a true helical cutterhead too.
Doresoom Tool Reviews exactly
The WEN is the same machine and it is $425 at Home Depot.
The Wen has aluminum tables and high speed steel inserts.
@@DoresoomReviews I'll check that out. Externally, they look the same.
The WEN has a spiral cutter head with 16 square blades. It has 1" thick machined aluminum tables that users have stated are flat and true. I will go with the WEN. I have three other WEN tools that have been reliable.
If the tables are of the same tolerances, I'd expect it to be a great performer then. You may even be able to update the cutters to carbide when you need to replace them, if the cutter heads are the same design too.
@@DoresoomReviews Possibly. I heard someone say cast iron tables are expensive. That could explain the difference. Notice that most contractor table saws use cast aluminum. That keeps those prices down. Flat is flat, regardless of the metal, or MDF etc. Most router tables are MDF.
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