Hi There, I have an old INCA jointer /planer, though its a lot better made it also has short tables... I've found that with a bit of care on how you feed the boards, you manage to get perfectly straight edges... It takes some practice to read the boards and see where you need to remove material in order for the long board to be straight enough to yyen run it a few times with good results. Not ideal (a long bed jointer would make it easier) its still doable... All the best
Thanks Tomas, I appreciate the tips and the support. It's my first jointer, and with the extension bars I simply expected it to handle longer uneven rough sawn lumber without issue. (That is how it's marketed) To your point, longer tables help solve that problem. I'll need to play with the tool some more to improve my results, or just take a first cut on the table saw before jointing. In either case, it works great on shorter boards and the surface planing up to 8 inches works pretty great too. Thanks for tuning into our little channel...
@@TheFamilyWoodworker no problem, it takes a bit of practice but then you manage to take full advantage of the machine. The machine will always have its limitations, deflection being the biggest problem with big boards (even small as seen with the fence) All the best with your channel ☺️
Great review, I really enjoyed the honesty and straight forward information. The Cutech cast Iron fence will fit this machine and it comes with the stabilizers to firm it up also. I'm still on the fence about getting one, I own a 6" Cutech and it does a great job with the same limitations as you described, but I find myself needing an 8" jointer. It pains me to have to trim off so much stock when I'm working on a project just to get another few boards. Thanks!
Now that my large table projects are in my rear view mirror, most of my projects work pretty well within the confines of the tool work area, and the fence seems to do well with smaller pieces of wood (like less than 5 feet long). I appreciate the tip on the better fence... might have to look into that!
Hey thanks! Looks like you have a choice of brands since they are the same design (same fence too) but I would opt for one with a larger motor if you're working with hardwoods... For any of my projects with board lengths less than 6 feet, the Grizzly has been working pretty well.
Thank you for your review. It was very helpful. I am a woodworker from Japan. I purchased this type of jointer earlier this year. It was a Japanese KERV.jointer. However, I wanted a better tabletop jointer and imported a Cutech.jointer in my case in May. By the way, it is possible to cut long boards straight with a tabletop jointer. But it requires the right technique and the installation of support rollers. Let's continue to enjoy each other's work.
I appreciate your comments and for tuning in to our channel. I actually use this tool all the time now, but for mostly shorter lumber lengths or surface planing. I agree, I might need some sort of level feeding table that helps keep the whole board straight as it passes over the cutting head. That is a good idea... Happy woodworking!
1/64, 1/32 or any depth, yes the infeed table is supposed to be lower if you expect to plane off any material. But, the tables are always supposed to be parallel so that you can make a flat pass from infeed to outfeed. Mine were not. The infeed table came up at an angle towards the outfeed and needed to be adjusted.
This is probably one of the best review videos I have ever seen. Well done sir! The deflection in the fence is a huge "no" for me. I saw it deflecting when you passed several boards through - especially the 45 degree mitre one. I was thinking about getting one and building a longer exit table to work with the longer boards, but now, I may pass and keep looking.
@@kerryvwhite I think the fence parts are the same for any brand of this same design, but it is a limitation on heavier lumber. It works pretty well for smaller projects. Thanks for the kind words!!!
I bought a 6 x 48 inch floor model Griz jointer back in the 90's. Still has the same knives in it due to lack of use. It's ok for small work but It didn't take me long to realize, the table saw was the way to keep jointing my boards. I find that the table saw, with a glue line rip blade on it, is dead on square to the joint, and that's what I need in my work, and I'm a pro woodworker. That's a nice jointer though as you said for doing smaller work. Thanks for sharing your review, I really enjoyed it,
Thank you sir! Yes, for my daughter's dining table project (soon to be published) I wound up using the table saw with a trim carbide blade to square up the rough sawn lumber. I did use this jointer to finish the trim cuts on my table legs and it worked great for those pieces. Glad I bought it, but bummed about the performance for long boards that aren't straight.
Cool... I did not spot that in any of their promo materials. I believe the core of the machine is exactly the same. Like with the scroll saws, some resellers add on parts like the swing arm light on my Rikon. It's all about trying to be a consumer. Nice catch...
@@TheFamilyWoodworker For sure! Appreciate the video. I'm currently trying to figure out what to get. Question for you, is face jointing equally problematic as edge jointing with the shorter table length? as you mentioned it's easy enough to edge joint with a Table saw jig or track saw. But I'm regularly needing to face joint 5' boards and hate using my planer/sled. It's such a hassle.
@@ian3453 I think the only real trouble I had was with edge jointing really long / rough sawn lumber. WIth the extension bars to accommodate 5-6 foot boards, and even pressure down on the table as you pass lumber through the cutters I haven't had any issue with face jointing. Of course, put too much pressure right at the end of the board as it passes the cutters and you'll get some snipe, but otherwise, all good.
Seen another review and they said the left outboard top should be slightly higher than inboard . Seen you leveled both sides . Wondering if that would be the problem of rough cut lumber ?
You're right... under regular usage at any cut depth, the out feed table is higher to catch the level board after it passes over the cutting teeth and it works pretty great. At the zero depth setting (no cut) the tables are level. It works perfectly for shorter boards like less than 60 inches or boards already straight from the lumber yard but harder to work with using my sawmill stock. Being fair... I still like the tool for most all of my projects. Thanks for tuning into our little channel!
I've gotten some other confirmation that the tools are actually manufactured overseas, but Grizzly has a pretty nice sales/service/distribution network in the U.S. In either case, pretty happy with the quality so far and I'm not being sponsored by them to say that.
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Hi There,
I have an old INCA jointer /planer, though its a lot better made it also has short tables... I've found that with a bit of care on how you feed the boards, you manage to get perfectly straight edges... It takes some practice to read the boards and see where you need to remove material in order for the long board to be straight enough to yyen run it a few times with good results. Not ideal (a long bed jointer would make it easier) its still doable... All the best
Thanks Tomas, I appreciate the tips and the support. It's my first jointer, and with the extension bars I simply expected it to handle longer uneven rough sawn lumber without issue. (That is how it's marketed) To your point, longer tables help solve that problem. I'll need to play with the tool some more to improve my results, or just take a first cut on the table saw before jointing. In either case, it works great on shorter boards and the surface planing up to 8 inches works pretty great too. Thanks for tuning into our little channel...
@@TheFamilyWoodworker no problem, it takes a bit of practice but then you manage to take full advantage of the machine. The machine will always have its limitations, deflection being the biggest problem with big boards (even small as seen with the fence)
All the best with your channel ☺️
Great review, I really enjoyed the honesty and straight forward information. The Cutech cast Iron fence will fit this machine and it comes with the stabilizers to firm it up also. I'm still on the fence about getting one, I own a 6" Cutech and it does a great job with the same limitations as you described, but I find myself needing an 8" jointer. It pains me to have to trim off so much stock when I'm working on a project just to get another few boards. Thanks!
Now that my large table projects are in my rear view mirror, most of my projects work pretty well within the confines of the tool work area, and the fence seems to do well with smaller pieces of wood (like less than 5 feet long). I appreciate the tip on the better fence... might have to look into that!
Great video. I was actually looking into this one last week.
Hey thanks! Looks like you have a choice of brands since they are the same design (same fence too) but I would opt for one with a larger motor if you're working with hardwoods... For any of my projects with board lengths less than 6 feet, the Grizzly has been working pretty well.
Thank you for your review. It was very helpful.
I am a woodworker from Japan.
I purchased this type of jointer earlier this year.
It was a Japanese KERV.jointer.
However, I wanted a better tabletop jointer and imported a Cutech.jointer in my case in May.
By the way, it is possible to cut long boards straight with a tabletop jointer.
But it requires the right technique and the installation of support rollers.
Let's continue to enjoy each other's work.
I appreciate your comments and for tuning in to our channel. I actually use this tool all the time now, but for mostly shorter lumber lengths or surface planing. I agree, I might need some sort of level feeding table that helps keep the whole board straight as it passes over the cutting head. That is a good idea... Happy woodworking!
Isn't the outside supposed to be the height of the cutting blade? The in feed side is like 1/32 lower?
1/64, 1/32 or any depth, yes the infeed table is supposed to be lower if you expect to plane off any material. But, the tables are always supposed to be parallel so that you can make a flat pass from infeed to outfeed. Mine were not. The infeed table came up at an angle towards the outfeed and needed to be adjusted.
This is probably one of the best review videos I have ever seen. Well done sir! The deflection in the fence is a huge "no" for me. I saw it deflecting when you passed several boards through - especially the 45 degree mitre one. I was thinking about getting one and building a longer exit table to work with the longer boards, but now, I may pass and keep looking.
@@kerryvwhite I think the fence parts are the same for any brand of this same design, but it is a limitation on heavier lumber. It works pretty well for smaller projects. Thanks for the kind words!!!
Agree, this is the right way to do reviews. I saw that fence movement too, pretty bad.
I bought a 6 x 48 inch floor model Griz jointer back in the 90's. Still has the same knives in it due to lack of use. It's ok for small work but It didn't take me long to realize, the table saw was the way to keep jointing my boards. I find that the table saw, with a glue line rip blade on it, is dead on square to the joint, and that's what I need in my work, and I'm a pro woodworker. That's a nice jointer though as you said for doing smaller work. Thanks for sharing your review, I really enjoyed it,
Thank you sir! Yes, for my daughter's dining table project (soon to be published) I wound up using the table saw with a trim carbide blade to square up the rough sawn lumber. I did use this jointer to finish the trim cuts on my table legs and it worked great for those pieces. Glad I bought it, but bummed about the performance for long boards that aren't straight.
I appreciate your candor.
Looks like the Cutech and Wuhada have additional supports to keep the fence straight
Cool... I did not spot that in any of their promo materials. I believe the core of the machine is exactly the same. Like with the scroll saws, some resellers add on parts like the swing arm light on my Rikon. It's all about trying to be a consumer. Nice catch...
@@TheFamilyWoodworker For sure! Appreciate the video. I'm currently trying to figure out what to get. Question for you, is face jointing equally problematic as edge jointing with the shorter table length? as you mentioned it's easy enough to edge joint with a Table saw jig or track saw. But I'm regularly needing to face joint 5' boards and hate using my planer/sled. It's such a hassle.
@@ian3453 I think the only real trouble I had was with edge jointing really long / rough sawn lumber. WIth the extension bars to accommodate 5-6 foot boards, and even pressure down on the table as you pass lumber through the cutters I haven't had any issue with face jointing. Of course, put too much pressure right at the end of the board as it passes the cutters and you'll get some snipe, but otherwise, all good.
@@TheFamilyWoodworker Really appreciate the reply!
Seen another review and they said the left outboard top should be slightly higher than inboard . Seen you leveled both sides . Wondering if that would be the problem of rough cut lumber ?
You're right... under regular usage at any cut depth, the out feed table is higher to catch the level board after it passes over the cutting teeth and it works pretty great. At the zero depth setting (no cut) the tables are level. It works perfectly for shorter boards like less than 60 inches or boards already straight from the lumber yard but harder to work with using my sawmill stock. Being fair... I still like the tool for most all of my projects. Thanks for tuning into our little channel!
Don't hold me to it but I believe that the Grizzly brand is made in the Seattle area. Grizzly is a very good tool though
I've gotten some other confirmation that the tools are actually manufactured overseas, but Grizzly has a pretty nice sales/service/distribution network in the U.S. In either case, pretty happy with the quality so far and I'm not being sponsored by them to say that.