I Hand Made Medieval Shoes!- Historical Shoemaking
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- Опубликовано: 19 дек 2020
- I've been practicing historical shoemaking since 2012, but have never worked so far back in time as this pair of shoes. However, it turns out that the 15th century isn't that different than the 18th century in terms of construction techniques! The trade of shoemaking is one of the oldest official trades and its methods of hand sewing were well established and refined even by this point in history.
Shoemaking is its own distinct trade which depending on numerous other trades to exist. Historically some one else would have been making the wooden lasts, providing the supplies, making the tools, etc. It's also a separate thing from Cobblers, as they work to repair old shoes (not make new ones) and were never an established trade. In fact, it was considered "unskilled work" at the time.
It would be another 400 years before a shift occurred in how shoes were being made, but even now we still use the same stitching techniques for hand made shoes. It wasn't until the 19th century that using various forms of rubber based cements became a standard shoemaking method. Instead, heavy waxed threads wound onto boar bristle needs are used in conjunction with awls and knives. The stitching is incredibly strong and durable.
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I'm so happy that you're sharing your shoemaking skills online for everyone to enjoy! (this also made me almost kind of maybe excited to make my own pair...heh...) 😍
Hmmm....I remember the medieval stockings, I know you have Nicole on speed dial for when you are ready to make those shoes! :)
@@deniseyoung3738 oh she’s teaching me, it’s a plan.
"maybe make" is a mood! I got jacket fabric for Christmas and think that daunting all ready
Darn Abby I’m a little jealous. Everyone should have a friend that knows how to make shoes!! Actually just having someone close who enjoys the same things would be amazing!!
fun fact the shoemakers stitch is also called saddlestitch and is performed exactly the same way but in heavier grain leather.
Yep! I also learned a lot of my leatherworking from a saddle maker/artificer. There's lots of different ways to do the same thing.
"Cobble together" that one hit hard XD
Everybody loves a pun.
It was delicious.
She gave it her awl.
You know, when I was in primary school a cobbler family friend made me shoes like these when he noticed my school ones were too old. I hated them since, in my mind, I felt it made me look poor especially considering I went to an upper middle class school district where teachers would berate me for my "poor shoes" and other kids mock me for my "poor shoes" 😔 at least the non teaching staff didn't care and a few even complemented them. Now I'm surprised I was that stupid and that a guy that mainly made akala shoes was able to make me something almost this historically accurate (European history, but still).
the fact that adults thought it was okay to make fun of a child is bewildering to me. who does that.
@@fancydeer it happened to many of us, back in the day.
What a kind man to go out of his way to make you something special ! It's too bad others did not appreciate his efforts...and show you the same kindness that he did for a situation that you certainly could not control !
Why "European history, but still"? Is European history not supposed to be accurate? Are you not of European descent? Is there anything wrong with European shoes?
@@floodgates182 from other comments I've seen the op is Kenyan. There's nothing wrong or inaccurate about European methods, it reads as not being historically accurate to the era and society they grew up in rather than an attack on the euro-centric historical worldview of much of the world
Interesting how history shifted between straight and left/right lasts, i always thought that anything before 18th century would've used straight lasts as well!
Same here! This was a fascinating video.
One of the arguments is that with the development of the heel around 1600 it was cheaper and easier to have 1 last per shoe size and heel height than a pair. With industrialization and larger scale production possibilities right and lefts reappear.
@@elisabethdc7760 that's so interesting to learn!
i'd love to see a video on the history of shoe shapes, including an explanation of why they went from left/right shoes to just two of the same shoe. it's so interesting. your work is beautiful!
It problably was because of the early industrialization. It's probably easier to make an even number of straight shoes in rapid succession than constantly having to swich between left and right. Also you'd need only one straight last to make a straight pair of shoes, rather than two lasts you'd have to switch between.
Salmon Says nope. The switch was a few centuries before factory or machine production was first a thing.
Left/rights were well known in antiquity.
Straight lasting is for war. The shoemaker needs to make large quantities and pull the lasts from them quickly.
Monuments as far back as ancient Greece show people wearing rights/lefts.
The U.S. as recently as the Civil War used Straight lasts to speed production, though rights/lefts had been the norm for quite some time.
I literally watched you do it but my brain is still telling me that flipping these inside out would be impossible 😳 bravo
Theory: Nicole is actually a time traveler. She just knows and can do everything
Clearly, this is the only rational explanation: Nicole is a Highlander.
@@ReisigSeeds
She was born to be Princess of the Universe
Some people theorize that genetic experiences are passed on through our DNA and that's why sometimes we have Deja vu's
Isnt this a bit reductive? She knows these things bc shes done the research and the practice and hard work that it takes.
@@bustedkeaton It's a fun joke complimenting her skills, please don't take this too seriously
Watching you make and use that boar bristle needle was the coolest thing I've seen in my LIFE. I'm forever changed, what an awesome technique!!
How freaking cool are you! Every time I see what your up to on a video I just can’t help but think, “this is one rad lady.”
Thank you for sharing your unique skills.
I know, right? Where did she come from? AMAZING, TALENTED woman! WOW!
They're absolutely beautiful!! The cutouts are so elegant and delicate. They really are more along the lines of "gloves for the feet" rather than the big bulky shoes we wear these days.
Gloves being “hand-shoes” in several languages makes much more sense if the term was coined when shoes were soft-soled.
Shoemaking is like magic (and I am saying this as someone who makes guitars)! Thank you for sharing this.
Would shoes made for colder times of the year be made similarly? I’d love to see how snow-safe shoes were made back on ye olde-y times!
For snow-safe shoes you _definitely_ want to do the sole in two pieces, especially if you’re using leather that still has hair on it, like Sámi winter shoes. The two pieces are cut in such a way that the hair goes in opposite directions, preferably forwards and backwards.
I wish I could give you two thumbs up. Absolutely fascinating! I’m the kind of person that likes to know how everything that was done “back when” was done. And this truly fills that need. Thank you so much for sharing your incredible skills.
Abby Payne - You might look up the history of patens. I don't know when they came into use, but wealthier women with expensive shoes and no fields to plough may have used them along with their usual indoor shoes when walking in the rain and snow.
@@ragnkja But why would you do that? What is it about having the sole in two pieces that makes it better for the snow?
@@sarahmcneill1237
The hair is grippy against the grain and slick with the grain, so having the grain in opposite directions makes the sole less slick. Ski skins, on the other hand, are single-piece and have all the hairs pointing backwards so that you can slide forwards but not so much backwards.
My father was a shoemaker. He hand stitched for Dexter Shoes. This video is excellent and the shoes are lovely. I'm also happy to see how approximately he would have worked in 1970.
OMG! Watching your amazing video actually gave me my MOJO back! Two years ago I took a class in medieval shoemaking with the best medieval shoemaker in Sweden, but I've been procrastinating sewing my second 14th century shoe ever since...I just haven't found the energy. But now I know what I want to do this Christmas :) Your craftmanship is extraordinary, and your work is so beautiful! I love watching your videos. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
this was so relaxing. i was in bed watching so I fell asleep and dreamed really weird but mellow shoe-making process dreams. now I woke up 2 hours later and finishing this video. Thank you so much this is incredible.
that stitch is also known as a saddle stitch and is common in modern leatherworking as well. Love the shoes - very cool. :)
"Squeak squeak squeak" goes the leather! I love all the sounds in your videos.
I love leatherworking. I did it for years, and dallied in simple shoemaking...sandals, moccasins, basic slippers. I am completely obsessed with shoes! Historical shoes, modern shoes, any kind of shoes!! So, this video was an instant favorite. Thank you for sharing your considerable skills and talent with us. I would love, love, LOVE more shoe videos!! Happy Holidays, and much love!
Wow! I'll never take a pair of shoes for granted again! Thanks Nicole for sharing your adventure!
So would y'all at American Duchess consider going this far back in history and doing something similar? These are so cute! 😍
I wish they would make flats! I just can't stand heels. I'm not paying hundreds of dollars for something I'll never wear.
AJ's Journeys the style of heel used it actually wayyy better than modern heels. As it's focused in the centre of gravity instead of at the back edge of the foot. It grounds you and youre actually able to lean on the heel of your foot in those heels and not risk stumbling.
But you stick with what you're comfortable with :)
@@feezlfuzzl564 They have made "flats" in the past for the Regency era, but they have been sold out for a good while. Hopefully they will consider putting a new style into production in the future!
As to why most of their shoes have heels, most shoes did during the periods of history that they work within, even men's shoes
@@feezlfuzzl564 They have a fantastic return/exchange policy so you could always try a pair (carpeted surface only) and see what you think. I've been able to work mostly standing for 8 hour shifts in their heels with no problems once they're broken in a little.
@@feezlfuzzl564 THIS SO MUCH. I'm mobility disabled, so pretty much all their shoes are impossible to walk in.
This is quite interesting to watch. Modern versions of this kind of shoes are quite popular among goths, and their popularity has only increased the past few years. Now it's clear where they truly come from.
I feel I have a whole new appreciation and respect for the shoe making process and the people who made my shoes!! Even though I’ll never do this myself, it’s so valuable to see the work that goes into making them! I look at my shoes differently now! 🥰
Yay new shoes! I loved seeing the whole process. I’m kind of wondering what it feels like to walk around with only a single layer of leather between your hose-covered feet and the world. We’re so used to having more layers in our shoes now.
I was wondering this too. I would imagine that the asphalt that we walk on today is harder and rougher than what people walked on hundreds of years ago.
I wore what were called Apache moccasins for years. It was wonderful, you were 'in touch' so to speak, with what was going on as you walked. I never slipped or fell and with a thick pair of socks my feet were always warm. I haven't been able to find them in years. : >(
@@jjudy5869 minnetonka makes moccasins. You can get soft soled. They have a foam insole and are super comfy.
This was really relaxing to watch and there's something just so satisfying about people turning shoes. Would love to try making shoes some day.
The Dordrechts museum had dozens of these out, they might be able to help with questions. It’s where Goubitz (stepping through time) did his research.
Dozens of videos out, or shoes on display?
@@feezlfuzzl564 shoes, men's, women's, children's, many original and some reconstructions. Also scabbards, pouches, clothing etc. from a leather worker's workshop and midden. Looks like the exhibition runs through August 15: (sorry, in Dutch, so you:ll have to Google Translate) www.dordrechtsmuseum.nl/tentoonstellingen/leer/
I am so happy to see these in their final form after your Instagram live. Love all the squeals and creaks as you make them. ASMR gold. They came out great and seeing the whole process is deeply interesting. I had mentioned in the chat I wanted to make some Viking-era shoes, but I took your advice and found a local maker. He does do classes for both basic leatherworking and shoes, so maybe when the pandemic is over I might take one because I do find this really interesting to just try. Even if I only ever make a coin purse ;) Thanks for the journey on these Nicole!
oh nice! They have "turned" out so well! And a sneaky peak of your dress too! I think working with the tools you know is a very good idea, not because of the time taken to learn new ones but because of safety. You know these, how they work and are less likely to stab yourself and thus make the process even longer!
I would watch a full-on multi-part documentary of your shoemaking process. It’s so interesting!
The seam in the soul is the same spot the end of a 3/4 shank ends. In dance shoes it makes for much easier movement and balance(pretty sure we were told balance) so I can see it being the same for these
I absolutely love this video. The atmosphere is so calming and the way you talk about your shoes shows you really enjoy what you do. As a side note, I did belly dancing when I was younger and wore a lot of ballet flats, so got to know the soles and how they felt on my feet while dancing. A full sole will make your foot work harder while moving but also allows for stronger support of the whole foot, especially if you need to be on your toes more often than not and a split sole will create a softer space in the arch allowing for more foot movement within the dance, although with ballet shoes there is typically a full inch between the toe and heel pieces. As soon as I saw the seam in your soles I figured it was to help keep the sole more pliable so your feet don't work so hard. If you're doing a lot of walking the last thing you want is strained feet.
This was fascinating, I would love to see how they wear and possible repairs. I am going to have to watch this more than once.
Birdy
Shoes and pattens is a really good book. I like Stepping trough time a bit better though. I have a friend that is really good with medieval shoes and have studied a lot of findings from Slussen in Sweden. You can find her on her facebook Historiska Skor (a swedish page, but she is good with english so just ask her if something doesn't translate)
Fascinating! A gorgeous result, too - if I could function in flats, I'd want some!
I'm always curious to see how different professions work with similar materials and techniques.
I do a little bit of leather work sometimes (still learning), mostly simple armour so far.
The stitch you called the shoemaker's stitch is known to me as saddle stitching, and I'm used to using 3.85mm pricking irons and a straight diamond-shaped awl to make my holes for it. More modern approach, I suppose.
The boar bristle needle thing is so very fascinating to me, made me wonder if they were used as needles in all types of sowing as a kinda predecessor to modern needles or if they have only been used to shoe making
Nicole, thank you for making this video. I've been interested in shoe making for a long time, but I've never dove into before and now I am excited to try!
This was extremely interesting to watch! Thank you!
You are an absolutely BRILLIANT artist. Thank you so much for this wonderful video.
This was absolutely *mesmerizing* to watch. I was so enthralled I almost spilled my tea twice!
This is so fascinating and incredibly soothing. You're so amazing. Thanks for great content and I look forward to where you continue to go.
That was a supercool video! I loved getting a glimpse into shoemaking!
Your channel is amazing! I just found it, and I'm having a great time. Seeing so much work and research going into your videos makes it very pleasing to watch... thank you!
Really loved the soundscape of this video, it was very soothing to listen and watch while working on my own sewing
wow i am so glad i found your channel!! i have been absolutely binging your content. i didnt know i need it so much!!
Lovely! Both the shoes and the video! Fascinating and informative too, thank you! And those creaky sounds of the leather being pulled tight are wonderful.... Like a fire crackling, or ship’s timbers or trees shifting in the wind.
They turned out so adorable! Thank you for sharing your process, what a unique skill!
This was absolutely fascinating! And, the shoes are so, so cool!
Super cool! They are very whimsical!
Wow, beautiful video! Thank you for sharing these techniques. So jealous of your lovely new shoes!
historical baddie!!! This is so neat! I can see the strength you put into your shoe making! It's an inspiration to lil ole me. Bless your talented hands!
Lovely. Beautiful. Thank you for a peek and a micro tutorial into historical shoes.
Your craft is fascinating to watch. Thank you for sharing this. Please keep sharing your amazing skills & wit ❤
Thank you for the video. This is so outside my realm of experience and utterly fascinating.
What a pair of beauties ! Love the cut-out patterns. And the boar hair braided with the linen had me mindblown !
I love all the colloquisms and sayings that are associated with shoemaking; 'cobbling together', 'splitting hairs', etc.
They're so nifty with the cutouts. This was fascinating to watch, and I really enjoyed your commentary regarding differences and similarities between different periods of time regarding materials and methods.
The heel wears out faster, it being a separate piece might aid in repair?
That and it might make walking in them easier so it bends with the foot.
that's what i was thinking too
That makes sense. After all, I’ve seen a picture of medieval knit socks where the heel was knit last, in such a way that it would be easy to remove and redo just the heel, or the entire sole, without ending up with ugly seams like my great-grandmother would when she’d cut off and re-knit the soles of socks she’d knit the modern way.
With medieval shoes you see both wear on the balls of the foot and the heel so it could indeed be a result of repairing one end or the other, or making it easier to do this in the future. The other argument about economy i always understood it was less about making the best use of a complete bit of leather but rather the ability to use up all of your scraps or perhaps even reuse a bit of leather from something else. Medieval soles weren't as thick as leather soles from later periods so flexibility wouldn't have been an issue and many medieval shoes are also found with a sole in one complete piece.
There wernt really pavements in those days,unlike now.
I’m not gonna lie; that was one of the best, most interesting YT videos I’ve ever watched. Informative, beautiful, very ASMRish, so relaxing, and absolutely gorgeous shoes at the end! I’ll be watching this many more times later after I first go share a viewing with my husband. Thank you, Nicole! Fantastic video and envy-inducing footwear! ♥️
Wow, Nicole, what a video! SO fascinating, and such a beautifully produced film. And you are so skilled, it's a pleasure to watch your craftsmanship. Can't wait to watch any more you might make in the future
A fantastic tutorial and historical insights all stitched together in one place. I love this!
Love your channel, history and fashion together great thought provoking videos, and then the addition of the skill and practical knowledge. Bravo
Very interesting, fantastic to watch. Learned lots!!
Amazing craftsmanship, thanks for sharing this.
Beautiful. Thank you for sharing your wonderful expertise in making medieval hand made shoes. Bravo. Xxx ❤
wow, I'm in awe. this amount of detail, especially with how you build up the last, is wonderful, and the asmr was interesting too😂
what i love about your channel is it holds my interest , the fashions and shoes are great , and you keep it so simple anyone can understand you ... I NEED MORE VIDEOS IM NEARLY AT THE END .
I have only been doing vintage sewing for about a year and watching the amount of skill do you have is mind blowing!Maximum respect!
Did my own pair recently, your video was great help going over the process. Thanks a bunch
Amazing! That was the most interesting video; I want to learn to make shoes!
Thank you for sharing with us.
Sandie :)
Your videos are the best! Thank you so much!
You are just amazingly talented. Unbelievable artistic and structurally gorgeous results on all you do. Love it all!
I have always wondered how shoes were made throughout the ages. Your videos are fun to watch and I have a new appreciation for your craft.
Hi! I am a conservator, and i work with a bunch of mideval shoes, and i have wanted for a very long time to try out using boar bristle, but 🙃 how do you get ahold of boar bristles? Btw if you ever wanna nerd old shoes, i have a batch of 50-60 shoes from 1000-1500 norway I'm working on conserving after Christmas. If there's details that would be interesting or something? 😊
Hi Thora, Boar bristles are available from Francis Classe on Ebay and Etsy. The search term you need is "7" to 8" Hog Wild Boar Bristles Hair". I'd love more information on your extant shoes from medieval Norway. Do you have a link to where you publish your work?
I'm always interested to see more archaeological or collections research! Are you planning on keeping records of commonalities of elements? Like a chart of how soles are solid vs. broken (that weird seam) or buckles vs ties, etc. (My analytical brain loves that stuff!)
@@NicoleRudolph i can keep a chart :) but I'm not 100 on what I'm looking for, cause i don't know that much about shoe construction
@@CompanyoftheStaple since I'm just the conservator i don't really publish, but i can link you two publications, a PhD about a bunch of shoes from Copenhagen i worked on, and there's an old publication from the 70 about shoes from my town (in Norwegian but with drawings). I know that they try to publish everything from our storage on collections online, or "digital museum" but it's a huge task and they haven't gotten that far yet. And that you for the boar bristle reference.
@@CompanyoftheStaple the phd is by Vivi Lena Andersen, i can't remember the name of it tho, cause it's on my work computer....
Very interesting!
I wonder if the split sole was just used to piece leather, and that happens to be what we’ve found?
Those are some wicked looking shoes. It must be thoroughly satisfying to wear your own handmade kicks...beautiful!
You made the design and construction process so understandable. Excellent filming with just the right angles. Loved the commentary and sounds. Hoping this film makes its way to middle and high school European history classes...some of the students would deeply enjoy it. Many thanks for taking us along!
wow these are amazing and I just love watching you work!
This was AMAZING! I only wish you had showed how in the world you went through every part of turning it inside out. I had NO idea that they even did that. How far into history were they doing that? I was rapt at every part and truly am going to be watching more shoe making videos from you in the future. Thank you so much for doing this!
These turned out amazing Nicole! When watching some of your making process on your IG live the other week I didn't realise that you used multiple strands of linen to create one waxed thread! It makes total sense though after your explanation.
I mean this in the best way possible, your videos make me sleepy. Like, your voice is very soothing to listen to, the atmosphere you create is very peaceful. I've done it accidentally at least twice now 😊❤
Perhaps the sole was in two separate pieces so that it might be easier to replace where the heel will wear down faster than the rest
Hi Nicole,i wanted to tell you i think your the best at what you do and are gifted with special hands,i say it's amazing at the outcome when you completed this pair and it's all good and has a purpose and i see this as your purpose,keep more of your videos coming because their kind of alluring and sensual in many ways thank you,love Denny
Just found you, subscribed immediately! You are brilliant♡
My gosh I'm so impressed by your making the stitches and pulling them tight while holding such a sharp awl! I absolutely would have impaled myself if I had tried doing that.
These turned out lovely
That's really neat! I love the pattern on the uppers
This was fascinating I loved the squeaky sounds the leather makes when you stretch it.
Thank you for sharing. Your work is beautiful and provides yet more temptation to try making a pair! Thank you especially for the book recommendation! My library has it and I will be going to grab it this afternoon. Hopefully there will be some information on making a last (seen that there are a few videos out there) so that I can make some out of the pecan wood that I have left over.
I love the sounds of this video, so relaxing😌
I was thinking about the cut off part of the heel, that maybe it became some sort of hinge, which made it easier to flex the foot, like when you dance, walk, or point your toes. They look so beautiful, love the pattern on top! Wish I could make shoes! 💜💜💜💜💜💜💜
Hi Nicole this is all very fascinating to me. I am a trained saddlemaker and a lot of these techniques I do recognise. And now I’m very interested in trying out boor bristles for needles. Thank you for this video. I live next to museum where they preserve traditional techniques. And in the museum they had preserved a whole cobbler shop. And I’m saying it in a new light. Thank you
This video is so informative and amazing 👍👍👍
Awesome Crafting, I need one of those!
You are amazing. Make me wish I'd learned something useful like this... how nice to make ur own shoes & they look comfortable.
They are really lovely!
That is a beautiful show I didnt know I needed 😭
Amazing video! At one point I almost went to make myself a pair of shoes (12th or 13th century fish-tailed shoes, I think?) and the project ended up falling by the wayside because I didn't have the proper leather for the soles, and I really didn't have the tools for them (trying to work a regular sewing needle through leather. without an awl. is simply not possible). This video really highlighted some key reasons why my friend had such an issue with the 15/16th century shoes she made, and somehow, the video simultaneously makes me want to try my own, as well as never try to make shoes ever, because i doubt i could manage such handiwork on my own. Absolutely amazing video, which captured my attention the entire duration.
This is so relaxing
OMG SHE CAN DO ANYTHING!!!!! I LOVE HER!!! ❤️❤️❤️
Nicole is amazing and so patient.