I Installed The Cheapest Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner On Amazon In ONE DAY
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- Опубликовано: 27 июн 2023
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What is a typical price for an install like this?
I have them a great deal on this install so I could make this video and it was $3000 equipment and labor. Other companies had quoted him $5000 If you feel confident doing this yourself, the equipment was about $800! Let me know if you have any other questions!
One more question: I thought I saw in a previous video you gave tips on how to find an independent HVAC contractor. Could you link the video or make another with any updated info you can think of?
Great job. Really like watching your videos. I worked in the vending machine business for 58 yrs. Changed jobs 4 times and never missed a paycheck. Took a corespondent course in refrigeration and made a good living.
Depends on who you hire and what type of quality you want.
@@diyhvacguygreat upside. I been doing HVAC since 18 for my dads company. Now 26 getting ready to test for my contractors license. Started in residential and commercial installation. Did almost 2 years refrigeration and large commercial at a prison. Moved into industrial last few years. it’s crazy how much people pay for simple work.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
I got one of these heat pumps because of your video and I love it! It works beautiful in our little 500 square foot extension. My favorite part was installing the line set through the wall. I have never seen that before. It makes everything look super clean. I am so happy,! Thank you!!!!
This unit is build by Midea, a Chinese white box mini split company, they produce for a dozen of "brand" Like Senville, Mr Cool, Lennox, Goodman, Carrier, and many more
They have some top notch equipment too.
I had good luck with Midea. Have comfortstar now
Yeah and pretty much all these mini splits LOOK the same no matter what brand they are, like they were all manufactured off one set of drawings and given different paint colors and badges, so you KNOW its like they are ALL made in the same big factory in China.
I bought the 24000btu OMO brand on Amazon. Paid around $1300 but now is $999. Never installed A/C before and never ran 220v before, but had it done by myself total of around 5-6 hours. Most of the time was trying to find where to mount the units and reading directions. They say you can install without pulling vacuum, but I pulled vacuum anyways to check for leaks and to make sure the lines are clear. Line set was installed with Nylog Blue. 1 year later through winter, freeze and now summer, it still runs like a champ! Really quiet too..
...those cheap units are all over the world in the millions....they do work
Vacuum isn't for leak check. It's to remove atmosphere. A N2 pressure test is best for that.
You're a true pro for pulling the vacuum.
You will find out soon enough. Then recheck the Pro comment later...after leaking.
@@wokewokerman5280😂 ikr? Millions and millions of people outside of good ol' U.S of A use them every day.... Yet if it's not made in 'Murica, it must be junk 😂😂
I installed a 18000 btu mini split several years ago myself if they're installed correctly, these little units are fantastic, really hurting the HVAC contractors they hate them🤣 and trash talk them unless they are installing them for a rediculus amount if a homeowner has any mechanical skills whatsoever they are very simple and work amazing on heating/cooling and electric bill. Great video!
My wife and I lived overseas in S Korea for a few years and the Koreans use mini splits exclusively for cooling in summer. We loved them in our korean apartments because you could pick up the remote and set any room to whatever temp. you wanted. They also put out good heat in winter. These things are awesome. I am in the process of installing 3 of them in our house in Florida right now and already have one up and running. I will be turning off the big energy guzzling central air system very soon. It's about time the USA caught on to mini splits!
I dont subscribe to channels but i am to yours. Not everyone can be a teacher, you have that skill. You explain every detail and miss nothing.. love it.. good job
Thank you so much! That means a lot!!!!
I installed a mini split 13 years ago. All I did was purge some of the 410 through the evap. It's been working flawless since.
What brand is it? Thanks
@@extraart1 Air works.
I do this as well. I charge the cost of the unit plus 1500.00 to install. I work out of my house, no building overhead. It pays the bills and I have extra left over to live one. When a company gives a 8000.00 to 10000.00 to replace furnace and air conditioner. I will show the home owner the exact cost of buying the equipment. In and average house everything needed to replace this will cost on average 4000.00. This also includes additional material needed to install. During the summer the parts houses run specials and will sell everything in a package deal. That usually saves 300.00 to 500.00 depending on the system. That savings should be past on to the customer, but big companies do not pass this on. When they tell you they can save you 1000.00 if you schedule and install, they could actually give you 2500.00 and still make a profit.
If you’re using 2 wire Mc you need to red or black tape those whites so they don’t get mistaken as neutrals.
I installed the C&H mini 3yrs ago. The 10ft lines are flared from the factory. No flare tool needed for the DIY. I coiled up the extra line and strapped it to the side of the house. $900 mini split, $400 installation supplies and $250 for HVAC tech to vacuum test. I leave it on 24/7 with no issues. These are great additions to any small workshop or garage.
Yeah, you can coil up the excess lines, but some might want to do away with the coil, and personally I feel having that extra tubing wound up behind the unit is somewhat asking for an accident to happen where it gets damaged somehow or collects leaves and debris, I think it's probably better to eliminate the excess, but then you DO have to have a good flairing tool.
Im an IT field engineer and unlicensed electrician for a little over 20 years. Your videos and some other HVAC videos make me want to change professions.
If you had a electrician license, you probably wouldn’t make his errors.
@@denverbraughler3948 could you be more specific ?
@@LemonySnicket-EUCyou can see he has 240 volt bare wires coming into the back of the disconnect with no connector. I’ve no idea why he couldn’t line up a connector and then mount the disconnect, but it’s shoddy.
@@wirenut3020 Hard to tell, but does not to appear to be in line of site, but distance seem fine… Frankly, I hate when the are more than 4-5 feet away…
The challenge on these things is.. the condensate drain. Also, maintaining moisture barrier where necessary wall penetrations are made. If you collect drain to a rain barrel, water garden plants or something. But drain is in the wall, that needs a P-trap like any other fixture as a gas block but: add a [normally plugged] fill port for winter as evaporation demands. Personal preference on condenser unit? Keep it 3 or 4 feet off the ground. That makes clearing growth easier and also avoids dirt accumulation around coil that driving rains, bugs, etc sometimes introduce -- leave at least a foot clearance from eaves or overhangs to give waste heat space to roll out.
The install as shown? I would run hose over to a rain gutter, or aquafunge will later start growing on the shingles. Won't hurt anything probably, but cleaning becomes an annual chore - do not use a pressure washer. Placing a biocide tablet in condensate tray of indoor unit will go a long way in reducing maintenance.
P traps are to prevent sewer gas from entering the home.
@@MrJames226 Normally yes. The trap is the thing: it blocks undesired airflow/backpressure
@@flinch622 and bugs!
this video is several levels above every else I've watched .. in professionalism ..
Very sharp - install , and detailed explanation , people who knows basic terms on HVAC , and knowledge on the use those great tools - flaring , service valve adapters , it makes the job much easier , thanks for your video 👍
The guts of this definitely look to be the same exact ones as the Mr. Cool Advantage line. I think I got my Advantage for $700 a few years ago. My only complaints were that it didn't have good temperature sensing on the indoor unit, so it would swing wildly during the night while we slept. (The temperature sensor in that clear PVC tubing isn't very responsive or accurate to the actual room temp)
Swapped it out for a Mitsubishi in 2021 and the room holds temp perfectly now. The Advantage is doing A/C and heat duty in my garage now, can't fault it in there when you just need full heat or full cooling.
Minis Split defiantly are incredible. I wired a large fire station a few years back and while not exactly a mini split such as this it had 2 Daikin VRV units outdoor and many cassette units in the dorms,offices locker, lounge rooms etc. It worked incredibly well in the summer and the units also produced heat for the winter. Other than just a couple pieces of duct for bringing fresh air into the building there was no other duct work crowding and taking all the room above the ceilings (which as an electrician is appreciated). Thing that surprised me the most is how little electricity these things use. Normally a building this size i would be used to hooking up at least 3 or 4 60amp heat pumps out side and same amount indoors. I think both units had a max fuse of 45amps and put my clamp meter on them running on the hottest day of the year think they were only pulling 10-12amps on each leg.
Clearly you are a contractor.. Most people here probably wouldn’t know the difference between a multi-port unit and a variable refrigerant volume (VRV) system as Daikin calls it, or a variable refrigerant flow (VRF) as other manufacturers call it (Daikin trademarked the term as I recall)… It has been a couple decades since I worked as a contractor, but not only did you have to be licensed to purchase those units from a distributor, you had to have training within the prior two or three years to keep you authorization as a dealer… If a VRV/VRF was not installed by a technician with qualifying training most manufacturers would not provide the longer warranty, if at all… But yeah, the VRV/VRF systems are nice… I became friends with a guy I met at AHR that was an engineer for Panasonic and he did his home in Phoenix with a Panasonic VRF (and he did it all himself, one of the few engineers I ever met that could actually install equipment)…
The horizontal part of the wall mounting bracked has slots that allow it to be bolted into studs rather than the siding.
Correct. He isn't in any studs.
Nice install, I always make a quick check with soap+water with low nitrogen (20 to 50 psi) in the flare connections, after that I raise the nitrogen pressure to the desired target (150-200 psi) check again and left the time leak test run.
But he misplaced the electric disconnect.
Just a note for others doing this themselves. The hor horizontal rail is made to get bolted to the house, then hang the vertices off of that. The vertical brackets have the holes if you can just mount them directly to the wall without the horizontal. The way this was done, the horizontal rail does absolutely nothing for the integrity of the supporting of the unit and should have been left off. And yes, you should use a torque wrench, especially if you are new to these things. Not a bad install for a homeowner, not a great one for a professional, hopefully this is closer to the first one. Line set is way short, not sure if the book calls that out. We take a lot of these units out after less than 5 years old, but never installed low end minisplits
Thanks for the info on the bracket. I tried to explain that but I guess I wasn’t super clear. I thought it would be good to sandwich the horizontal just to kind of lock the three together but it really didn’t make any difference. The book didn’t call out a minimum length so Im sure it will be fine. Thanks for the other tips. Cheer man
Same here, One 3 head system I encountered had two hiwall on second floor, third on the third floor (the ceiling height on each level was over nine feet) !
One of the units were leaking inside the wall since this system was located while buildout was in planning.
Installers left no slack in piping to pull head off wall and re torque flares. Pia.
After five years of topping off, or full recharges, owner decided to just replace the whole system. so far no call backs.
Looks great, 😉 Hopefully those lags hit a stud. The top bracket is so you can hit the stud and the vertical legs can be attached to the wall sheathing to keep the legs stable.
Nice job, I've heard of guys cutting the flared fittings on the indoor unit the minimize leaks for the future. They connect the line set by using copper couplings and brazing them. Purging with nitrogen would be necessary to prevent clogging of the filter driyers or check valves on the system.
I like to use spray foam on the copper lines. You can mold it to the form you need to fit through the wall. Helps prevent condensation.
I put it through the wall Frigidaire 2 ton unit in for total price of $690. It works fantastic and I will never go back to indoor outdoor split units. Put a package out side if I have to. Can be worked on easy and replaced easy. Vince can be put in soffits in conditioned spaces.
I have a MrCool and yes it was very easy. I did not realize that other units were still precharged, just not the line set. Good to know.
That was confusing, because it seems Mr cools' LINESETS are precharged and the others are not- the charge is inside the condensor/compressor unit, imagine the surprise of having installed a non Mr cool unit and getting used to cutting the lineset shorter and then you start cutting the Mr cool lineset only to rudely discover its fully pressurized with refrigerant LOL!
@@HobbyOrganist the Mr. Cool units don't have refrigerant in the line. The compressor is still pre-charged. The lines are basically pre-sealed with special connectors so you don't have to pull a vacuum.
Nice looking install and cool tools! The only Issue I saw was with the line volt, there should have been a fitting on the end of the mc cable to connect to the back of the disconnect, at minimum a bushing. Also the service disconnect is supposed to be within sight or reach of the unit. you could have came out of the wall to a wp j-box then seal-tite to the next level and place your service disconnect there. Some places only allow 6 feet of whip but it just depends.
As someone who has been installing these for 12 years he did about 6-7 things that me and my employees would laugh about
Great views of the mountains, all flat here in Texas. Good clean install
Here in Vietnam, you can have a 12k btu unit installed for you... For $250, including installation. $350 and you can get a nicer inverter type.
I've considered putting this type of unit in, both, my attached (3-car) and detached (2-car with workshop area) garages to use when I'm doing some work in one of the garages--when its 98F in the summer or 28F in the winter. Both garages are insulated to the same same standard of my house--the garage doors are insulated, as well (home was built in 2016).
All 3 of my shops and garage have mini splits. Best choice ever. I use a ceilo breeze for wifi capabilities. Works perfect. If you'll be opening garage doors a lot look into air curtains. They shoot a literal curtain of air to keep the cool or heat in the shop space. You'll see this method at stores and such. That's my next upgrade. They are fairly cheap.
Incredible job, only thing I would add is to change the zip ties to the outdoor rated black ones, the white ones get brittle very quick when exposed to the elements
But the clear ones look better 😍 haha
You really did a very neat and clean job
Don't forget to pull that head unit apart once a year and clean the mildew build up behind the condenser and the barrel fan...
Another awesome video, Dave! I'm actually installing a same 24k unit pretty soon.
Right on! Cheers man
You didn't mention the refrigerant pipe lengths which will give optimum performance. The spec sheets would have given a minimum and maximum pipe run.
I did a C&H system with four ceiling cassette 2 years ago to replace the HVAC system. I'm a remodeler but have never done AC and I learned everything about how to do it on line. I won't tell you its easy, it was a lot of work but I'm glad I did it. The mini split is sooo much more efficient than a conventional HVAC and now I run the heating and cooling on a solar system, even on the battery back up so even if the utility is down I still have heat and AC.
I'm not sure about branding, after I installed my C&H system I worked in a house that had the same system with Mitsubishi branding so clearly different brands come off the same line.
Mitsubishi is made in Japan (mostly) any of their factories outside of Japan for Mitsubishi certainly are not in China. Midea and Gree are the manufacturers making nearly every other alternate brand you see, not Mitsu.
In 1980s I was in air-conditioning business .Watching your videos I'm impressed that young person like you have so much knowledge .You always doing thinks right .In my HVAC days there was two basic refrigerants R12 and R22. 30 pounds of R22 was 65 $. Thank you for showing home owners that HVAC is not rocket science.
Now you can't get R12 and 1 pound of R22 is $100.
@georgezardecki2545: "I'm impressed that young person like you have so much knowledge"
The knowledge that the CONDENSER goes inside??? [0.11]........
A couple things....1. In every building jurisdiction I've worked in, the disconnect must be is sight of the appliance it serves. 2. I've installed about 180 mini-splits, mostly Bryant but Fujitsu, Samsung, and Daikin. They all have a minimum line set length of 10 feet. 3. Drop a drop of oil on the back side of those flares
@@JustNobodyButMEI have a competitor here in town that is charging $600 a pound for R22.
@@christopherscott8853 Wow! We need to up our price! lol
Created a potential problem by slicing the foam insulation on the head line set. Just bend it back as a package and you'll be fine. Installed my unit a year ago and I love it. Cheap to run.
Such good info here. Thank you so much for taking the time to make the video and share.
Glad it was helpful!
@@diyhvacguy Helpful for sure! My only complaint is that I watch your videos and leave feeling envious of all your nice tools! 😂
A tip: you should never use the flare joints that are pre-installed. They are always trash, especially on cheaper units, and will fail on you. Highly recommend you just re-terminate them during install. The tools and materials to do this will save you a lot of money and trouble down the line.
YES!!!!!! I learned that the hard way LOL!!!
Not necessarily. I inspect them, and sometimes they are just fine. Even Craig at HVAC Sevice tech channel didn't bother making his own in one of his videos.
@@badinstinctsyoutube7108 I prefer the eccentric flaring tool, just like the one he opted not to use. They don’t just bend the flare, they form the flare and leave a perfect sealing surface.
Just did another mini split yesterday. Used again spin flares. The lineset had a thick lip which looked fine, but still cut just in case.
Torqued on the lower end because I use a little nylog. Vacuumed and reached 55 microns, decayed to only 67 microns after 5 min.
And yes, I vacuumed for around 1.5 hours because that's how that final vacuum stays low after isolating. And I have no choice but to remove the shrader valve because the appion tool I use doesn't have a part to push on that valve.
Much easier now that they have those electric flaring tools… Not that I need one these days… But, would have been nice a couple decades ago… I have on old Refco set and had to do it the hard way when I was a contractor…
Great video!
Im installing my Tosot 12,000 BTU, I had looked at the Mr Cool, but that was like $1800 and quite a lot of neg comments about their customer service end of things, so I went with the Tosot which was about $899
You could save a lot of time and potential for leaks if you just cut the insulation off the condensation lines like you were cutting a pipe then just slide the sleave off, rather than cutting the entire length.
I installed my Mr Cool 4 years ago, it stil works without fail.
I have done 3 Pioneers, piece of cake....had a warranty issue and they were great to work with.
Excellent video, you're a stand up guy. God bless 🙏
They work great. Ive used that brand before. Less than $1000 and cools a large area.
Cooper and hunters are the best budget, straight to consumer ductless unit. Id compare them to the new model carriers, I installed a 24000 btu 2 zone, heat pump c&h for a buddy who picked it up on marketplace for 1000$ i install hvac everyday and I'm actually installing 3 carrier mini splits between today and tomowrow and between the different features plus the similar seer ratings, theyre very similar. Over a year and a half later the ductless units are still going strong with no issues so far, id definitely reccomend cooper and hunter, it brought everything needed to do it minus the tools
I think every Air Conditioner, the split one at least, requires at least 3 meter of pipe, Short pipe is going to make compressor work harder and it's get overheat overtime, because there's no room left for the refrigerant to get cooled/hot enough.
To make sure, check your manual says, however the information I get is kinda general rule of thumb, 3-5meter, 12meter is maximum. I get this information from technician not necessarily AC manufacturer.
The other one is always place your Outdoor condenser lower than the evaporator so the OIL doesn't stuck inside your evaporator when it's not in use.
I read the installation manual and didn’t see anything about a minimum blank on the lineset. So I don’t think there is any ill affect with having a lineset shorter than 3 meters.
@@diyhvacguy It's hard to give you a references without being filtered as a spam, if you read my previous reply with link, it was explained there.
This was from the website:
Pipeline too short
If the manufacturers do not indicate the minimum length of the freon line in any of the available sources (paper or electronic instructions, video), focus on the generally accepted value - 3 m. In short, you can’t make a route in short.
If we recall how the process of transition of the refrigerant from one state to another occurs, we will understand that a short pipe is simply not enough to completely transform the substance. Freon, which did not have time to turn into gas in the evaporator, enters the compressor in the form of liquid, which should not be allowed.
@@blebekblebek Fortunately most splits have an accumulator, but checking with manufacturer probably best idea.
@@diyhvacguy The manual for the C&H 1.5 ton that I'm going to be installing states a 3 meter minimum for the lineset.
@@robertgregory2618 I don't think this one have it. Accumulators are common in cars, I never seen one in Split AC, maybe not the one lower than 1.5 ton, idk what is metrics you use, we usually use PK or BTU.
I bought the cheapest one on eBay ~$500, installed it myself, 3 months later I'm still very pleased with it. I intend to install a second one that i bought at the same time, but the one is maintaining temperature even with 90+ outdoor temperature.
Is the unit energy efficient and economical? Is cheaper than standard large ac units?
Seems to be ,yes. It's a 9k BTU unit so the closest comparison would be a window unit. It's 16.5 SEER rated, whatever that means, ApooDr brand. I have it installed in a ~450 square foot apartment.
Great Editing. Thank you
I just installed one of these about 2 months ago and just did a pioneer today, the pioneer is exactly the same, identical
I install the diy mrcooler 3split 3ton took my 2 hours only 4k things works perfectly
That unit has a minimum lineset distance of 10ft and a maximum of 25ft, I believe, so while it'll work with the precharge, at 3-4ft of lineset it should have some of the R410a pulled out for max efficiency. That said, that's a very clean install and well done.
I noticed that too if you shorten or lengthen and go beyond the max min recommendations the unit might hunt or not keep up..
Removing or adding R410a is much more hassle than just coiling up the excess that came with it..
It would require weighing and proper evacuation as required..
It should have a 10ft refrigerant line or it will have a short cycle and may damage the compressor motor in the future.
This is very true. On Daikin systems the manual says the minimum line set is 15ft. I had a service call for a minisplit not working for a lineset of not more then 10ft. It was going into high limit during the heating season.
Also….. dude you gotta use a torque wrench bro. You got get those flare torque out at the correct TQ or NM. Most freaks don’t happen till months later because of over tightening the 1/4” mostly or under tightening the bigger size like 1/2” and up you need like 52tq and that’s some grease and elbow.
@@Kevin-mp5of sorry meant lb-ft(pounds-feet) and NM. Not TQ 😂
@@davecooper9170 Looks cleaner with the shorter length… Also, if you coil the line set it would need to be pretty flat as anything else could cause trouble with the oil as you are essentially creating a trap…
Great detail in installation thank you.
Nice job, great video also. Thank you!
great job on most everything, i like that you give reasons why you do this or that as you go through the process. one thing I would note is your using two conductor cable w/ ground wiring (12/2) for your 220 circuit. You should technically put black (or red) tape on the white wire at each end to indicate the white wire is a LINE feed, and not a neutral.
Thanks for the pointer. I’ll be sure and implement that! Need to pick up some red tape I suppose. Cheers
@@diyhvacguy black tape is fine to use on the white wire for this purpose 👍
Yes marking a white wire used as a line conductor is required by code. Also it was not necessary to leave a space between the circuit breakers in the service panel as every other breaker space is on a different 110v leg. There is no way to plug a 220v double pole cb into a panel and for each pole to be on the same 110v leg.
NEC also specifies the location for the outdoor disconnection means. You can’t just put it wherever you think it should be.
@@denverbraughler3948 it has to be within sight of the equipment and readily accessible. I believe that criteria is met in this application.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Great job Explaining everything! 👍✌️
Thank you. Love your videos and sharing your knowledge. I would love to put a mini split in my camper van and run it off solar. Video Ideas for the future? Cheers
I’ve seriously contemplated this. I wanted to install a cassette ceiling Mount unit in place of our existing ac, but I haven’t decided to pull the trigger on that yet. Ours works pretty well as it’s a 2021. But I’d love to do a video on that in the future!
Best insulation and proper verbiage as to electrical and AC. Thank you.
As a certified HVAC instructor here in the northwest I have so many questions. For the most part I like your ambition and your dedication to precision. On the other hand, you really need to learn how to use your tools properly and with the right procedure. Don't get me wrong I'm not here to do any bashing I’m just here to give you more encouragement in the right direction. Nylog is not a good lubricant for flares refrigeration oil is. Good quality tubing bender will help you in the future just in case you kink a fitting and have to start all over. Crescent wrenches are directional using backwards defeats the fulcrum effect actually can cause stripping of the flair nut. When tightening a flare tighten it down snug point to point back it off and then tighten to your final tightness. This will allow you to have a nice solid connection without a torque wrench. Mini splits do not have any type of line dryer for moisture therefore all manufacturers require a triple evacuation which means you put a vacuum on the system to somewhere around 1000 Micron break it with nitrogen then evacuate somewhere 800 break it with nitrogen evacuate down to 400 break with nitrogen and then to your final evacuation. Also most manufacturers require under 400 micron stable. This ensures there is no moisture in the system. My target is always under 120 and of course it’s always a good idea to get as low as possible. This ensures there is no leaks and no moisture.
The disconnect you installed has wires going through brick that have no grommet or insulation that is required by code. The wire colors you chose is nonstandard but the endpoints are the same so wire color doesn't matter.
Nice choice on the field piece manifold. To properly do a pressure test you need to hook up your suction temperature probe to the line so you have your differential reading accurately.
Overall, I love what you're doing I wish I had your knowledge when I started out back in 84. The way I was taught was just do it with no explanation and I was taught wrong until I went to school and learned the correct way to do things. Keep going on what you're doing heating and air conditioning technicians at your caliber are well sought after.
"all manufacturers require a triple evacuation" it is a false statement, here is straight from Pioneer below. Also not a single word about nitrogen, just FYI. " under 400 micron stable" - he had 250 microns if you watched....
Turn the vacuum pump ON to start evacuating the
air from the line set and indoor unit circuits.
Run the vacuum pump for at least 15 minutes, or
until the Low Pressure Gauge reads -76cmHG
(-100 kPa or -30 In Hg). (Negative value)
Close the Blue (Low Pressure) valve of Manifold
Gauge, then turn the vacuum pump OFF.
Wait for 5 minutes, then check that there has
been no rise in Low Pressure Gauge reading.
If there is a rise (Vacuum Loss), refer to the
Gas Leak Check section for information
on how to check for leaks. If there is no
change in vacuum reading, unscrew the cap
from the LIQUID Side Service Valve (Fig. 6.2)
Insert hexagonal wrench into the service valve
(LIQUID Side Valve) and open the valve by
turning the wrench in a 1/4 counterclockwise
turn.
You cannot charge or check variable speed units by sub-cooling, so no need to measure low side temp… You also forgot safety, NEC requires the disconnect to be “in sight from”…
I used through the wall Frigidaire and don't fool with any split systems.
Did my CH dual in ceiling cassettes 2 years ago. Replaced old heat pump so I had 240v present already. Easy install but attic mounting a bit tricky (worth it). Extra bought a manual flare kit and vacuum pump, crescent torque wrench. No nitrogen. RUclips University helped with installs. Don't like the CH app. Cheaper units available non Amazon nice wifi apps. 110⁰ So. Cal. summers all works great. Thanks for your video. Helping neighbors install mini-splits. Saved myself $5k DIY.😅
Great video man! High quality clear video and helpful explications! Thank you.
Nice job. If that were my home, I would have asked that the disconnect be mounted on the house exterior wall and up higher so that it would be accessible to the technician on the roof as well as to anyone standing next to the sliding door. The only extra would have been to route the supply power from one wall to the other wall on the exterior. Just a thought.
Build one yourself, I have a prototype. All you need is an air to air heatexchanger, a water evaporator (humidifier) and 3 fans. My prototype doesn't show the 2 hoses that you suppose to connect outside of the room. It's cheap it only uses water and some power to spin the fans. The water evaporator replaces the compressor.
I have installed two of these mini splits at my house with both doing great. One of them that I installed about three years ago doesn’t seem to be cooling as well as when it was new. Is there a way of just putting my gauges on a get an idea if the refrigerant is low? I have heard you are suppose to recover it all and then weigh in the correct amount but was wondering if you could tell if it was low just by pressure readings?
Very clean install except one thing. You need to put a drip loop on the lines so rain water doesn't follow the freon lines into the wall. That or maybe some sort of sealer or diverter on the bottom of the lines. Thanks for sharing the details.
Holes are drilled at a downward angle, how would rain water run up the lines?
Great install! Wish you were in Illinois. I need one installed!
good look at hvac heat pump install - the way to go for efficiency #mini split
Wow, all of that stuff in a 100amp main breaker box. I have a 200amp main in mine. Thank you for the video, also, thought the mini splits were already pre-charged without doing anything, and have all quick connect couplings. Just what i have been told. Do they make them to hook into my old central duct work ? Thanks again.
I'm a Gunsmith and i have a fairly large shop and the summers and winters can be tough to heat and cool. In the summer I just run huge pedestal fans 2 of them and in the winter i have a 50,000 btu Big Buddy propane heater and run it on 100# propane bottles when it gets really cold i burn 23 gallons a week @$2.79 a gallon $64 a week is a tad expensive. So i bought the 24K unit from amazon and am having our heating and A/C guy put it in. He's semi retired like me, I called and he said $500 to inst. so I said lets do it. I bought the wire and breakers and the unit from amazon was $1187 delivered he said he has done a few of these units before and they are good especially for a shop. He'll finish the wiring Tues. and i'll be anxious to see how it works. I have a wood stove in the winter so i'm mostly interested in cooling it for summer. Standing in front of a lathe all day when it's 90 is not so fun anymore.
Would like to hear more pro and cons from your perspective on the cheap units that require pro install vs Mr. Cool self-install.
No units require pro install just Mr Cool caters to DIY installation moreso than mainstream brands
@@redsadventures5654 Mr. Cool has the pre-charged lineset that doesn't need any flaring or special tools, that's really the main difference.
@@jimmypautz, true, but Mr. Cool charges a lot for that. DIY "could" be better served by renting/buying the necessary tools.
@@mr.c6674 there's also a lot less skill involved in those precharged linesets. For someone who does this once or twice, it may be worth the extra money.
Your fire Insurance company is the biggest issue.
Very thorough guide to an install. I like that bracketry. Was it purchased separately?
Yes from a local supplier. Rectorseal has a great product.
I love your videos. I live on the Eastcoast, and I would like to add mini splits throughout my home. Is it safe to get rid of my furnace to use the mini splits for heating and cooling. Also, is there a way to sync all the mini splits?
Been using the Spyder hole saws for a couple years now for drilling through brick and block,only need regular cordless drill! I used to drag around my sdr,but those were a game changer
Cool! I’ll look into that! Do you use a cordless hammer drill?
@@diyhvacguy yes,only need hammer function to pilot the hole,then put the carbide hole saw on and get it done!
Nice job
Very good tutorial.
Nice install, but what about line set length. Isn’t there a minimum amount? Next time try mounting the horizontal bracket to the wall then you can adjust the brackets to what you need.
Thinking of adding a Mr cool 12000 for my 2 car garage. Do those need to have the lines vacuumed? It’s the advantage series.
Homeowner quoted $5000 to install an $800 unit. That price is criminal. Yeah, I know contractors have expenses but that price is robbery. I especially like these DIY videos because theyre upsetting to the supposed tradesman who make a living ripping people off.
I agree if parts cost them $1000 ok mark it up 25%, then include the full hourly of the tech and any office warehouse personnel who are paid a living wage. Also be sure to add in the owners pay and retirement cost plus wear on equipment and future replacement cost also remember to percentage in insurance, taxs and utilities plus anything you like to do nice for your employees from time to time. Oh wait another thing you need to factor in a cash reserve during down/hard times so the business can survive and employees are maintained. If you don't understand you have probably never run a business with employees or one that had a future.
I don't think I can purchase a unit cheaper than $1800 through a distributor. I can't sell any. I charge about $500 to install a mini split. However your insurance company will have a fit if it's not UL approved unit. And I require a waiver..
Diy away then man. I love coming in on those calls. I get to charge an idiot fee. See the above comments to understand to a degree why units cost so much. Not trying to be rude but I don’t think you really understand the gravity of overhead.
How about the cost of the company vans and their upkeep? The majority of repairs that are company does on mini splits, is due to bad installation. This guy takes an 8-hour training class and gives it to you in less than an hour. Never mind the year or more the technician spend at school...
How much was that flare joint tool? Lol.
I just installed a hotspot energy 18k hybrid mini split. Hopefully it will save me some money running it off solar 😅
Great install! Not that I would need to do this- but definitely interesting to find that this not a weekend warrior job. Need a pro with proper tools.
I always put some Nylog between the flare and nut, to reduce friction on the flare. I don't know if it actually helps but it never hurt it either.
That is all it is there for…That reminds me, my pet peeve is seeing pipe dope on flex gas connectors, like a water heater, as some plumbers literally think that provides the seal..
@@EarlHayward I've seen it a ton and its awful and it kinda hurts my soul when I see it.
thanks for being respectable on install cost. Sadly, some contractors want people to pay their $500k mortgage, $100k truck and $400k boat payment with one install. Then, they bitch when they need to come back out and fix their crappy work.
Great installation video! Do you have a link for the type of hole saw you used? Keep up the good work!💪
rule of thumb for the amount of air conditioning needed for a space is 1 ton per every 500 sq ft.
I have a C&H in the back of my RV and a Pioneer in the front of my RV. I travel the U.S. for work. I've been in all sorts of weather.
C&H works better for heating. Pioneer for cooling. Both are awesome for both heating and cooling.
Sick video bro!
Thanks man!
question,,,,,, suction line looks as if it almost kinked....... did you do anything to correct the flat spot????
whats the best mini split you would recommend for the money, that also has a heat pump?
2:25 yoooo, that view
I use my Klein impact rated socket driver daily. But in all honesty, you charged these people a robbery amount of money. Im a journeyman HVAC tech and I hold my electrical license as well. I’ve been doing HVAC since 2002, could of purchased this unit for $500, plus $2500 for install
I’m confused. I charged $3k for this install.
I am not sure where you are from, but I want to install a AC disconnect for a mini split in Big Bear Lake, CA. My question is regarding how to look up the code requirements for running the conduit from the breaker to the other side of the house (trying to do it as close as possible to correct method). There is a small crawl space under the house which I can attempt to run the conduit or I can run it around the perimeter of the property. Does the conduit need to metal or 40 mm pvc? Also, the wire itself needs to be THHN or can it be NM-B? Or just use MC to save time?
I’d recommend spending just a little bit more for a Pioneer. Not only is the Pioneer higher efficiency with better specs and features but they honor their 5 year warranty on DIY installs and have a US based HQ for support and parts. You also significantly kinked the vapor line by not using a tubing bender or a spring. But in general you can install your own ductless for around one third or eve one quarter what the big companies charge for similar hardware and 4 hours of labor.
I noticed that too.
Is there a bush protecting the power cable through the wall as it enters the disconnect or box? Couldn't see one also did you fit any gas tight security caps to the valves where the high and low pressure lines enter the compressor unit before the weather cover hid them 🤔
for that unit with those short lines you could have problems with a very low superHeat that could damage the compressor in a few years... check that and eventually recover a part of gas from the unit
That's not the reason. You need a minimum of around 10 ft lineset so that the refrigerant has room to expand before hitting the coil. Removing refrigerant won't solve that. Though you do what you can.
@@sprockkets yes that's right... Thats why you always have to respect the specs in the manual
@@sprockkets It is not that the refrigerant needs to expand before the evaporator coil, there is no expansion before the evaporator coil, it is a liquid to the expansion valve which handles that (hence, the name expansion valve)… The problem is with too short of a suction line as it will cause compressor floodback where not all of the refrigerant has evaporated (particularly if there is low superheat)… Thus, some liquid still exists on the low pressure side in the suction line and that causes damage to the compressor… It will also impact the “oil in circulation ratio” as you might have oil retention in places you don’t want it if refrigerant flow impaired…
@@EarlHayward Incorrect. Expansion in a mini split happens at the outdoor unit.
All mini splits have accumulators so liquid return is expected and not an issue.
Great video
I've installed hundreds of Cooper and Hunter Inverters and I've never had a call back. One warranty problem with a sensor that I replaced. I also installed a split unit version in my own home. Never had a problem yet in over five years. By the way they are furthest from being the cheapest. There are several models from top of the line seer ratings to lower seer versions. There is junk in this market but Cooper and Hunter isn't one of them. Also I'd like to say that some do not have great customer service or part availability. C&H has both for everyone's FYI. IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE.
Luv the video 👍🏽
What if you have a room with no exterior walls? How will you get the tubing work done and especially the drain pipe?
my dehumidifier fan motor has 2 black , red ,white and blue wires . I know the 2 black wires goes to the capacitor but which of the remaining wires goes to my power cord ? my powercord has the standard black , white and green wires coming out of it ?
Note, on the fan motor the red wire has an H in brackets and the white wire has an L in brackets .the blue wire has no letter in brackets .
would like to here your thoughts on that, please and thank you .
good video