Heating Improvement Interesting. I saw one where they went to all the trouble of cladding and insulating but did not seem to understand you will be freezing cold how ever much cladding you put on if you do not change the windows - which you did so I think you did the main thing. For what its worth, I did pretty much the same job but underneath and this was a help. It is much more fiddly to do but it works. Only tip is you MUST do it right. If you leave any gaps you will soon have mice (or worse) nibbling at your floor What I wanted to ask was ..... how much? I mean is there a special place to get those windows at a good price? Otherwise surely it is cheaper to scrap it and get a nice double glazed centrally heated one?
Charlie, thanks for the reply, after the first winter (not filmed) I clad around the underneath and yes it made a huge difference, like having under floor heating compared to what I was used to. Yes I went to GAP (General All Purpose Plastics) they have many outlets across the country and we're the cheapest. I paid £1200 for all the windows n doors which was reasonable. They are house spec 70mm as well. Cost me around £6-7k all in, could have got one done but I hadn't the money to buy at once at the start. The shell in the video was only £800 to buy so went for it and then did it up over a year or so. Which worked well for me. By the time I'd actually finished it tho I did look back and wonder if it could have been done cheaper / easier / quicker 😀
2 questions buddy... 1> do you think a tyvek house wrap would be worth it to fot after the insulation and before the cladding? The batons that are fixed to the outside shell of the static, are the fixed only to the metal shell or unto the studwork inside?
Hi sorry the late reply, yes a tyvek layer is advisable I should of done this actually. The batons go into the joists not just aluminium, they are a nightmare to find and I just answered someone else (also 2 year old comment 🙄) on how to find them. By the way I have a new video coming out soon explaining all this with a full set of plans / cad model etc. Available to purchase 😀
Sorry for bothering u. The cladding. Is it basically lengths of timber 4 by 1 and if so what's sealing the timbers together to stop water getting behind the timbers
Yes its sawmill cut and treated sarking boards is the proper name, although they are 150mm x 20mm. They are just overlapped on top of each other by about 12.5mm each side so you get 100mm spacing. There's no sealant on them. There is actually a few gaps where water can get in but it doesn't seem to be an issue.
Really cool mate. One thing thing I remember about our families caravan up in Scotland was it was baltic. Do you know what kind of restrictions you would have siting something like that on private property? Would the council be on you for living in something like that?
Not quite as good as I'd hoped actually, cos spent a lot of time fair bit of money etc. N finding here in Scottish highlands that I need a heater on from 6am say just to take edge off, when stove dies down the heat fair pulls out. There's a major difference in the floor to ceiling though, obviously as heat rises but also because I don't have underneath boxed so in other words the floor can be pretty cold. Over the next couple weekends planning boxing it off, so I'll let ya know how that helps, they say that makes a big difference normally so better get it done.
Really well actually, it was the final step needing done. N makes a big difference, almost like having under floor heating👌. Well not quite lol but definitely a good thing to do.
He never taped or sealed between the foam boards so that would bring the isulation factor down by quite a bit. Ive heard even 30% so for that little bit extra work could have better gains
Hi Aftab, I expect the tape would apply to a building that is airtight but with the insulation boards fixed externally, there is always going to be cold bridging issues since the insulation boards will undoubtedly have air movement below and above (not just side to side, as per the boards meeting against the timber stud work). I expect that the insulation boards will definately have a positive effect against the cold. I doubt the tape would hold up against external conditions either. Maybe expanding foam would be a better option. @C20 - I'm about to stud, insulate and clad ours now!
Hiya. Was hoping to do the same to my Catavan ready for winter but was wondering. Did you use normal upvc windows or specific caravan/slimline windows. Thanks
Hi Mo, Ive just used normal 70mm house windows. I was able to do this because of the cladding / insulation. My overal wall thiclness is around 78mm (38mm batton + 40mm existing caravan wall thickness.
Wow. That’s awesome. Sorry to ask again. I’m a DIY newbie. 1.Did you order your sizes or you could find them in stock. 2. Did you frame the whole of the inside of the window space to sit the larger window? 3. I don’t understand the warning caption. What do you mean by hard butt? Thanks so much
Hi Mo, 1. It was a bit of mix i have 4 windows that are close to the right (small than tthe hole there going in) the rest i ordered new. 2. No the windows should basically match the hole there going in minius 5mm length and width, you then screw the batton (38mm x 50mm in my case) to the window, like a picture frame around it (google how to fire stop a window), the batyon is screw thru the 50mm side flush with the outside of the window, you then place this in the hole and screw the batton to the existing frame. Thus meaning the new window protrudes by 38mm which is the insulation space. 3. If your cladding it by lapping timber be sure to leave an air gap between the back boards, i never on some of the windows at the back, the lack of space meant the absorbed water, i had to redo it n it caused a leak....
Well what your seeing in the vids to date i.e. the outside. I can give you a pretty detailed cost... Caravan £800, moving it £300 Cladding £600 Insulation £355 Windows £1200 Drainage/guttering (front only has plastic gutter) £50-75 Curved / straight flashings for back, instead of gutter £235 (be another £80 to put straight flashings on the front, bulk flashing cost is in the curved ones) check my "guttering how to guide video if you wondering what I'm talking about) If your buying fixings, silicon etc be another couple 100 no doubt to... So looking at £3500~ depending if you have the caravan already etc.
Hi there, it's referring to the space between boards, if you watch the video carefully you'll see above the windows, the first boards to go on were hard against each other and the same with the second layer to go on thus meaning there was no air gap, this caused me issues down the line as the moisture couldn't get out and I ended up have to fix it which was a total nightmare. So always leave an air gap...
@@MrYobo666 I asked a local shepherds hut builder what to do with my static. He said you have to batten it twice. Once to hold the insulation, then use tyvek wrap or similar, then batten again to hold the cladding. That would give it an air gap I suppose? I'm probably going to use corrugated roofing sheets for cladding. We're on a farm so it won't look out of place.
I'd advise you to take his advice, the way I've done it is not ideal, you can come out as far as you like if you use flashing. Have you seen the gutter / cladding video I did?
No bother at all happy to help. No I'm on the BlackIsle. If you need any assistance with the flashings I have a drawing available that could easily be changed. Best place to get them is Steadmans, the flashings are 3m n £15+ vat. Note it's VERY IMPORTANT you seal it into the existing gutter with the likes of weathermate sealant. I had issues where the new flashings sit into the gutter, didn't seal them, and caused a huge leak due to what's called the capillary effect where wind draws water out the gutter and down behind the cladding. You'll see it in the video🙄
@@MrYobo666 ok thanks was worried about the structure being strong enough. Just away to renovate an old static. What did you do with the interior was that mdf? Was thinking about plasterboard but worried about movement and it cracking
Yeah the structure seems strong enough, quite hard to hit the uprights etc. I would stay clear of plasterboard to keep weight down. Especially if your cladding it to. Is it in its permanent location? I've replaced various walls etc inside with just 4mm ply I.e. same thickness as existing paneling, screwed using 4mm x 25mm screws, flexible filler cover screws etc. Then just going to use wood primer under coat to paint it all. I've filmed absolutely everything n should have a mother video up soon. Inside is well under way now. If you want some pics or that before then of specific stuff I'd be happy to send you them if your need advice etc. Happy to help😀
@@MrYobo666 its going to be in its permanent place in the next few weeks and dont plan on moving it. Was debating about a steel frame round the caravan,not sure which way to go yet. Profile sheeting on the roof. Think you can decorate mdf to look like plasterboard?my thing is I dont actually want it to look like a caravan. Are you a joiner or builder for a living?
I'm sure it'll look good with a new roof, I was nearly putting a new roof on myn as had issue with leaks on the back wall due to the way I sealed the back flashing/ gutter, sorted now. You should check out my video on the gutter in case there's any info in there of use to you. For the mdf just paint it with wood primer and then emulsion on top. If your not moving it n insulated it properly etc. then you could probably properly join and tape the inside so it's smooth, it'll really look different then. Not a joiner no, I'm a Design Engineer, I work in an office on a computer 8hrs a day, just been 'tinckering' at home a lot in my spare time. Glad you asked that though, I'll be sure to tell my tradesman friends who think am nuts😂😂
Anton it's working pretty well, although theres none extra in the roof so I presume I'm loosing a lot of heat thru the roof, also I've been meaning to box of underneath as air is able to flow thru, I believe this will make a big difference.
@@MrYobo666 folk say that having a 'skirt' around the van is a massive improvement to heat loss as the wind whips it away. I'm interested to know if you have doen it and if so, did it make a difference?
It just looks so much better..Now looks like a cabin instead of a mobile. What type of cladding boards did you use...Size..length..make. how much did you order? I want black windows & a double door put in. Thanks for sharing this 🙌
Yeah it looks way better. I used 4.8m x 20mm x 150mm rough cut treated sawmill sarking board, used for garden trims etc. All cut in half to 2.4m. Very cheap as I have a sawmill I use regularly for this type of stuff. By the way I'm in the process of creating a complete CAD model of the caravan including a full cutting list of all materials (windows, battons, insulation, cladding, guttering, flashings n more), plans, floor plan, engineering drawings for various things (windows / flashings), new quotes and the cheapest/best place to buy the big stuff, wall detail explaining best order to fit everything. The video will have a detailed explanation of all this and then the full document will be available as a sort of guide to follow thats available to purchase in pdf format inc. 3D PDF of the model. I think for around £10-15, would this be something you would purchase? It will be EXTREMELY detailed and should tell you everything you you need to know how completely seal and insulate the outside 😀 . Just gauging interest of you could reply 😀
The wood it's self is just sawmill treated larch boards, 19mm thick by 150mm wide. In terms of actual style not 100% of the name, probably vertical lapped
That is so cool
Heating Improvement
Interesting. I saw one where they went to all the trouble of cladding and insulating but did not seem to understand you will be freezing cold how ever much cladding you put on if you do not change the windows - which you did so I think you did the main thing. For what its worth, I did pretty much the same job but underneath and this was a help. It is much more fiddly to do but it works. Only tip is you MUST do it right. If you leave any gaps you will soon have mice (or worse) nibbling at your floor
What I wanted to ask was ..... how much? I mean is there a special place to get those windows at a good price? Otherwise surely it is cheaper to scrap it and get a nice double glazed centrally heated one?
Charlie, thanks for the reply, after the first winter (not filmed) I clad around the underneath and yes it made a huge difference, like having under floor heating compared to what I was used to. Yes I went to GAP (General All Purpose Plastics) they have many outlets across the country and we're the cheapest. I paid £1200 for all the windows n doors which was reasonable. They are house spec 70mm as well. Cost me around £6-7k all in, could have got one done but I hadn't the money to buy at once at the start. The shell in the video was only £800 to buy so went for it and then did it up over a year or so. Which worked well for me. By the time I'd actually finished it tho I did look back and wonder if it could have been done cheaper / easier / quicker 😀
2 questions buddy... 1> do you think a tyvek house wrap would be worth it to fot after the insulation and before the cladding? The batons that are fixed to the outside shell of the static, are the fixed only to the metal shell or unto the studwork inside?
Hi sorry the late reply, yes a tyvek layer is advisable I should of done this actually. The batons go into the joists not just aluminium, they are a nightmare to find and I just answered someone else (also 2 year old comment 🙄) on how to find them. By the way I have a new video coming out soon explaining all this with a full set of plans / cad model etc. Available to purchase 😀
Sorry for bothering u. The cladding. Is it basically lengths of timber 4 by 1 and if so what's sealing the timbers together to stop water getting behind the timbers
Yes its sawmill cut and treated sarking boards is the proper name, although they are 150mm x 20mm. They are just overlapped on top of each other by about 12.5mm each side so you get 100mm spacing. There's no sealant on them. There is actually a few gaps where water can get in but it doesn't seem to be an issue.
Really cool mate. One thing thing I remember about our families caravan up in Scotland was it was baltic. Do you know what kind of restrictions you would have siting something like that on private property? Would the council be on you for living in something like that?
Thanks mate, well pretty sure you can stay in a caravan for 6 months on a holiday rental basis but then you'll need planning there after.
@@MrYobo666 how did you find the difference after with the mobile home being cladded eg heat wise
Not quite as good as I'd hoped actually, cos spent a lot of time fair bit of money etc. N finding here in Scottish highlands that I need a heater on from 6am say just to take edge off, when stove dies down the heat fair pulls out. There's a major difference in the floor to ceiling though, obviously as heat rises but also because I don't have underneath boxed so in other words the floor can be pretty cold. Over the next couple weekends planning boxing it off, so I'll let ya know how that helps, they say that makes a big difference normally so better get it done.
@@MrYobo666 how did the boxing go?
Really well actually, it was the final step needing done. N makes a big difference, almost like having under floor heating👌. Well not quite lol but definitely a good thing to do.
He never taped or sealed between the foam boards so that would bring the isulation factor down by quite a bit. Ive heard even 30% so for that little bit extra work could have better gains
Your absolutely right, I would have done it differently if I was doing it again. And tape is one thing I would add.
Hi Aftab, I expect the tape would apply to a building that is airtight but with the insulation boards fixed externally, there is always going to be cold bridging issues since the insulation boards will undoubtedly have air movement below and above (not just side to side, as per the boards meeting against the timber stud work). I expect that the insulation boards will definately have a positive effect against the cold. I doubt the tape would hold up against external conditions either. Maybe expanding foam would be a better option. @C20 - I'm about to stud, insulate and clad ours now!
Hiya. Was hoping to do the same to my Catavan ready for winter but was wondering. Did you use normal upvc windows or specific caravan/slimline windows. Thanks
Hi Mo, Ive just used normal 70mm house windows. I was able to do this because of the cladding / insulation. My overal wall thiclness is around 78mm (38mm batton + 40mm existing caravan wall thickness.
Wow. That’s awesome. Sorry to ask again. I’m a DIY newbie.
1.Did you order your sizes or you could find them in stock.
2. Did you frame the whole of the inside of the window space to sit the larger window?
3. I don’t understand the warning caption. What do you mean by hard butt?
Thanks so much
Hi Mo,
1. It was a bit of mix i have 4 windows that are close to the right (small than tthe hole there going in) the rest i ordered new.
2. No the windows should basically match the hole there going in minius 5mm length and width, you then screw the batton (38mm x 50mm in my case) to the window, like a picture frame around it (google how to fire stop a window), the batyon is screw thru the 50mm side flush with the outside of the window, you then place this in the hole and screw the batton to the existing frame. Thus meaning the new window protrudes by 38mm which is the insulation space.
3. If your cladding it by lapping timber be sure to leave an air gap between the back boards, i never on some of the windows at the back, the lack of space meant the absorbed water, i had to redo it n it caused a leak....
Great explanation!! Thank you so much
How much has this cost roughly to complete? Ie timber windows cladding? Thanks.
Well what your seeing in the vids to date i.e. the outside. I can give you a pretty detailed cost...
Caravan £800, moving it £300
Cladding £600
Insulation £355
Windows £1200
Drainage/guttering (front only has plastic gutter) £50-75
Curved / straight flashings for back, instead of gutter £235 (be another £80 to put straight flashings on the front, bulk flashing cost is in the curved ones) check my "guttering how to guide video if you wondering what I'm talking about)
If your buying fixings, silicon etc be another couple 100 no doubt to...
So looking at £3500~ depending if you have the caravan already etc.
@@MrYobo666 looks great
Yeah I'm pretty happy with it so far for the money etc.
How long did it take you
What does hard the cladding mean? Sorry i know nothing about building/renovating just trying to learn so i can diy
Hi there, it's referring to the space between boards, if you watch the video carefully you'll see above the windows, the first boards to go on were hard against each other and the same with the second layer to go on thus meaning there was no air gap, this caused me issues down the line as the moisture couldn't get out and I ended up have to fix it which was a total nightmare. So always leave an air gap...
@@MrYobo666 I asked a local shepherds hut builder what to do with my static. He said you have to batten it twice. Once to hold the insulation, then use tyvek wrap or similar, then batten again to hold the cladding. That would give it an air gap I suppose? I'm probably going to use corrugated roofing sheets for cladding. We're on a farm so it won't look out of place.
I'd advise you to take his advice, the way I've done it is not ideal, you can come out as far as you like if you use flashing. Have you seen the gutter / cladding video I did?
@@MrYobo666 I'll watch it now. Thanks for taking the time to reply, really appreciated. Are you on Loch Lomond?
No bother at all happy to help. No I'm on the BlackIsle. If you need any assistance with the flashings I have a drawing available that could easily be changed. Best place to get them is Steadmans, the flashings are 3m n £15+ vat. Note it's VERY IMPORTANT you seal it into the existing gutter with the likes of weathermate sealant. I had issues where the new flashings sit into the gutter, didn't seal them, and caused a huge leak due to what's called the capillary effect where wind draws water out the gutter and down behind the cladding. You'll see it in the video🙄
Hi how did you attach the frame to the outside of the caravan is it not too flexible?
Hi Sarah, the battons are just screwed to the caravan, thru the tin and into the existing timber frame, cladding is then nailed to the battons
@@MrYobo666 ok thanks was worried about the structure being strong enough. Just away to renovate an old static. What did you do with the interior was that mdf? Was thinking about plasterboard but worried about movement and it cracking
Yeah the structure seems strong enough, quite hard to hit the uprights etc. I would stay clear of plasterboard to keep weight down. Especially if your cladding it to. Is it in its permanent location? I've replaced various walls etc inside with just 4mm ply I.e. same thickness as existing paneling, screwed using 4mm x 25mm screws, flexible filler cover screws etc. Then just going to use wood primer under coat to paint it all. I've filmed absolutely everything n should have a mother video up soon. Inside is well under way now. If you want some pics or that before then of specific stuff I'd be happy to send you them if your need advice etc. Happy to help😀
@@MrYobo666 its going to be in its permanent place in the next few weeks and dont plan on moving it. Was debating about a steel frame round the caravan,not sure which way to go yet. Profile sheeting on the roof. Think you can decorate mdf to look like plasterboard?my thing is I dont actually want it to look like a caravan. Are you a joiner or builder for a living?
I'm sure it'll look good with a new roof, I was nearly putting a new roof on myn as had issue with leaks on the back wall due to the way I sealed the back flashing/ gutter, sorted now. You should check out my video on the gutter in case there's any info in there of use to you. For the mdf just paint it with wood primer and then emulsion on top. If your not moving it n insulated it properly etc. then you could probably properly join and tape the inside so it's smooth, it'll really look different then. Not a joiner no, I'm a Design Engineer, I work in an office on a computer 8hrs a day, just been 'tinckering' at home a lot in my spare time. Glad you asked that though, I'll be sure to tell my tradesman friends who think am nuts😂😂
How well is the insulation working?
Anton it's working pretty well, although theres none extra in the roof so I presume I'm loosing a lot of heat thru the roof, also I've been meaning to box of underneath as air is able to flow thru, I believe this will make a big difference.
@@MrYobo666 folk say that having a 'skirt' around the van is a massive improvement to heat loss as the wind whips it away. I'm interested to know if you have doen it and if so, did it make a difference?
It just looks so much better..Now looks like a cabin instead of a mobile. What type of cladding boards did you use...Size..length..make. how much did you order? I want black windows & a double door put in. Thanks for sharing this 🙌
Yeah it looks way better. I used 4.8m x 20mm x 150mm rough cut treated sawmill sarking board, used for garden trims etc. All cut in half to 2.4m. Very cheap as I have a sawmill I use regularly for this type of stuff. By the way I'm in the process of creating a complete CAD model of the caravan including a full cutting list of all materials (windows, battons, insulation, cladding, guttering, flashings n more), plans, floor plan, engineering drawings for various things (windows / flashings), new quotes and the cheapest/best place to buy the big stuff, wall detail explaining best order to fit everything. The video will have a detailed explanation of all this and then the full document will be available as a sort of guide to follow thats available to purchase in pdf format inc. 3D PDF of the model. I think for around £10-15, would this be something you would purchase? It will be EXTREMELY detailed and should tell you everything you you need to know how completely seal and insulate the outside 😀 . Just gauging interest of you could reply 😀
what do you call this style of cladding?
The wood it's self is just sawmill treated larch boards, 19mm thick by 150mm wide. In terms of actual style not 100% of the name, probably vertical lapped