GM Chevy truck: "REDUCED ENGINE POWER" Case Study- Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In Part 2 of this Chevy Silverado "Reduced Engine Power" case study I take care of the TPS wiring issue, as well as the P0113 IAT Circuit code.
The big Chevy throws a curve ball after the repairs...Enjoy!
Useful Links:
Part 1: • GM Chevy Truck: "REDUC...
Power Probe ECT2000 short/open wiring harness locator used in the video: www.powerprobe....
Check out this cool case study on Shrodingers Box channel where Matt uses the ECT2000 probe to track down a wiring issue: • P0138,P0139 Diagnosis ...
Sometimes late at night I wake up and can’t sleep and the only thing I want in the whole world is to listen to you ramble through your diagnostic process I love the way you think out loud and you have so much knowledge it always catches me off guard -these little comments I can tell you think nothing of I think to myself you must be a hundred years old to know so many things and this feeling that some things are so right in the world and I can go back to sleep finally
Finally someone that uses common sense and knows how to use his scanner.
You must be very busy as most dealer mechanics have no idea how to fix today’s vehicles…
Great video. You should be proud of yourself. You are very thorough and persistent for a young man. Few people, regardless of age, would have gone to the trouble to track down the shorts. Not only are you persistent but you must be on the bright side to understand all this. Congratulations.
What a great lesson in modern technology and PATIENCE. Headed off to the dealer on Monday for the same damned "Reduced Engine Power" BS. Over a year of intermittent limp mode in some of the worst locations. It's a bitch being handicapped, but, at least I can go to the dealer forearmed with a litlle very dangerous knowledge. Thanks for the lessons.
Sure thing, Paul! Glad I could help you out! The trouble codes stored in the computer can narrow down the problem quite a bit :)
No wonder why I I I I I didn’t have ground your the boss men thanks a lot I been working on my car for at least 4 months Tmrw I’ll get it done ❤
Pine Hollow A.D. you are awesome. I watched both videos the other night after having no luck troubleshooting my reduced engine power situation that came on my 2003 GMC Yukon. With your help diagnosis of this vehicle I was able to look through my lines attached to the source codes and found a broken wire. I replaced the line from the gas pedal to the control module with a part off a junkyard 2003 Escalade costing less than $3. The vehicle works perfect now. It instantly fixed my problem.
I suggest watching both case study videos in their entirety. They are very helpful. My broken lines were not he same as the ones found in this video but I did find two line that had broken over time. Replaced one line and repaired another. Thanks Pine Hollow for saving my family time and money we don't have to spare.
Thank you sir
Can i ask you where you found your break from the accelerator pedal to the ecm?
I thoroughly enjoyed your detailed explanation of your procedures while multi-tasking with several DTC's. Your presentation shows you're HIGHLY skilled in today's very complicated automotive electrical and electronic systems. You explain and relate very well of your knowledge without being condescending. Keep up the great work and my sincerest thanks!
Using those ringing tools can be a bit tricky at times, but they are extremely helpful. Got an analog one, which was used by telephone engineers to "ring through" a wire. So you can basically let a telephone ring when you connect both wires or just one wire and have an handset. The advantage is the extremely high sensitivity. You can trace a wire behind a wall etc when you switch the sending unit to high power and the receiver has a volume knob which let you easily adjust it while tracing and gives you a much better "feeling" for the distance to the wire.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I spent 2 days and $100 trying to figure out what was wrong. Your video led me to the fix on my 2004 Chevy 2500HD 6.0L. I had changed the Knock Sensors and cleaned the intake and heads and when I put it back together I was getting the Reduced Engine Power message and P0120 & P2135. Watched countless RUclips videos and read countless forums. It was watching you strip the wire loom back as far as you did when I found the break in the ground wire near the rear most fuel injector. When I disconnected the fuel injector while taking off the Intake Manifold the wire must have broke fully. The ground was completely broke and the brown wire was chaffed with the copper exposed. Spliced those wires and good to go. THANK YOU.
Dominic, I am so pleased that my video was helpful to you! Great job on the repair!
lvan. You are becoming a National Treasure. You are to methodical for the majority of us (I include myself.) I've learned a ton of stuff from you - have kept my 2007 Lacross running by using your help. Thanks.
Excellent Video. My 04 GMC Sierra tripped the "Reduced Engine Power" whenever I hit washboard on our county gravel road. Traced it down to the female side on four of the eight bayonet pins to the TPS. Took each pin out and compressed the tab down to make better contact with the male pin. For a quick check just move the wiring around to the TPS while engine is running. Loose contacts will cause popping noise from TPS.
The second one of your videos I've watched and be nice to have one of them snap-on boxes you got out of my price range that's the way the vehicle should be fixed not throwing parts but somebody got carried away with a knife that's for sure but but I enjoyed your videos keep up the good work thanks
Radio Shack closing for us electronics guys here in the State College area was a death blow. That was the last place to buy anything electronic locally. There used to be University Electronics, Electronics Unlimited, T&R Electronics, Acorn Electronics plus a few other smaller repair shops where we could find resistors, caps, solder and small items. Now we have to travel or just order things we need. Great videos, hope we can meet someday I work at PSU in the electronics shop.
Blame Amazon for making shopping online convenient.
Dude you are one hell of a mechanic..
Continue doing this and one day you will be the owner of a big amd successful mechanical shop. Most shops fail to do analysis, which you do great. Congratulations!
I keep a stock of Raychem DR-25 shrink tubing in my garage for under hood repairs. Normal shrink tubing can dissolve when exposed to oil/fuel vapors. You can get Raychem DR-25 on Ebay.
That cut on the harness is because of the intake manifold cover(the plastic cover that goes on top) 2014 and newer 2500hd trucks that kept the 6.0 have an issue where the cover rubs a hole on the pcv hard hose at the back of the driver’s side head letting dirt into the engine, i sent 5 company trucks in for new engines because of it
Great work, really enjoyed it.
hey I just wanted to say thank you very much for your time & video you put together god bless you man for real I fixed my 2003 Tahoe reduced engine power problem I keep watching your videos cause I'm learning alot thanks again keep up the good work
What was the issue? I have an 03 and have the sake symptoms.
Same here did Anyone find out?
I'm having a similar issue on a 2008 Chevy Malibu LTZ. I noticed a pattern that the car would go into reduced engine power mode almost every time there was a hard rain and the car wasn't in the garage during the rain. I changed the TAC sensor on the Throttle body....that seemed to work but the problem came back.....I'm betting after watching your video that something is wrong in the wiring, possibly a broken wire. Thanks for the video, very helpful.
when I first saw you on the eric o show I just could not follow the two of you talking. you were just talking so fast and your two brains were meshed together so surfing I found your show and low and behold you talk slow and easy to follow. very enjoyable segments. so you got me back as a follower and i'm learning a lot. thanks
+John Hafernik Hey John good to have you here! It's always a blast visiting Eric at SMA and record some live case studies...sometimes we get carried away in the dialogue and forget to slowly explain the thought process lol. There's always more to learn so stay tuned!
Lol can’t tell you how many times I’ve poked my fingers with a test light. I know this video is old but you definitely need to look into a Ts100 soldering iron now. It’s super small open sourced temp controlled soldering iron that you can use with a battery or other portable source. Has tons of tips and custom firmware with cool features. It’s PERFECT for the kind of work we do.
Nice fix!! The ect2000 seems to work pretty well. I use a sewing seam ripper to open wiring harnesses, it gives less of a chance of damaging wiring. Keep up the great work!
I’m here just to listen to the wild birds. Beautiful!
Dude your insight and tech is freaking awesome,I have an 03 Silverado with these same problems..glad I watched this before I spent a ton on new parts.
You should replace the whole section of wiring that had been probed due to the insulation of the wiring being opened. If the wire is not sealed after being probed it will lead to corrosion and the wire breaking in two from said corrosion.
that tool to hold the wires is going to be my new lifesaver.
The exhaust from the catalyst chamber on your butane soldering iron works well for heating heat shrink. I have the older version of the same brand. Love that thing.
Awesome job explaining as you go. Thanks for the content. I'm trouble shooting a rough idle lack of throttle response in power right now in 5.3 Yukon xl.
Did you find out the issue? Doing same thing on a 03 Silverado z71 and I’m stuck
5.3 as well lol I forgot to mention this :/
What did they use to cut the zip ties a Bowie knife.?
Awesome 2 part video. Electrical problems are always a scary thought because of the labor involved to fix the issue. I must say, you did a stellar job and are good at your craft. Keep up the great work, if I was in Texas you'd definitely be my mechanic.
Thanks for the comment, I really appreciate it!
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics ......What Part Of Texas Are You In?
I Have An Electrical Issue On My Truck That Could Use Ur Help. I'm In Dallas.
Excellent fix, keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing.
Great troubleshooting video!
It is amazing how much damage can be done to a harness with a knife by inexperienced hands . My only recommendation is when making a wire splice (in a harness) is to use Western Union style splice instead of attempting to flank soldering two wire ends. Sn64 or Sn62 solder is not strong mechanically. In most cases I use a small piece of a wire ( 3 to 4 inches) to allow sufficient length to strip insulation - forming two splices, soldering and heat shrinking repaired wire. Butt crimp and soldering wire ends after crimping is another option.
The check engine light won't come on on a TCM code what you need to do is leave the key in don't start it just click it over twice to where it's on depressed the accelerator for 2 minutes release accelerator and turn the key off and let it sit for a couple minutes and let it reset that's for the transmission control module JohnQ by the way great video I'm an electric lift truck mechanic so I'm pretty knowledgeable on this but your video really helped me out so thanks a lot
Great video out of houndreds of videos this ones helped the most. Thanks
very good video , I really like your videos, you make everything look easy even I know you spend several hour with the hard problems, knowledge is the key and also get to know how to use your equipment, thank you for sharing
Nice repair Ivan. Three observations. (1)-heat gun , no Bic lighter stuff - Ha must have picked up a bad habit from SMA. (2 )- I was taught by GM when performing a factory wiring repair their must be a mechanical support to the wire prior to soldering- we used fine gauge bare copper wire wrapped around the area in a nice even coil then solder. (3) - that tape on the eng harness is not factory ,neither is the use of zip ties. That harness has been taken apart and the retaining clips that held it down are missing and as you noticed they substituted with zip ties. In my experience the TCM does set if there are TB faults, last one I looked at was a 2006 Tahoe late second shift , TP- coloration code- new TB , all fixed. I do like Matts tool , seems a little off at times but I guess your going to make a demo vid explaining how it works:) I really like your presentation and awesome repair thought process. Thanks for showing us. 👍
Steve Rob Wow that's great info right there Steve, especially about the tape on the engine harness and the retaining clips! The tape was so dusty and tight it really did look original. But the mystery still remains...why did they have to take that harness off in the first place? Top end work?
Ha - I'd throw a wild guess - intake gaskets and Buddy just pulled the engine harness up and broke all the retaining clips . I had such a good laugh at that purge solenoid blunder, nobody that watches your channel does work like that . It's funny now but the guy that owns that truck won the lottery finding you. If he's smart he get his truck serviced by you from now on.
Steve Rob Very good chance it was intake gaskets
+wtbm123 They have been using those same cheap ass Chinese made intake gaskets for a long time now. The intake gaskets on my 96 were leaking from day one, fouling the #6 plug and running like crap.
Likely someone did some major work on this engine, or maybe even swapped the engine out and at that time they cut the ties to remove the harness, using a sharp knife of some sort. Pulling engines and so forth is work often performed by the lowest experienced guy in the shop and if this guess is correct, that is how the harness got cup up in multiple places. Thanks for a very good diagnostic "study" as you call them. You are a regular Sherlock Holmes.
I almost think a 4 hour trip to State College is worth it! Currently experiencing the same issue in my 2011 Chevy Impala with either something in the throttle body or the APP sensor.
hey i dont know if you have any milwaukee tools...but i made a cool protable soldering iron using a milwuakee battery to power it...works amazing...heats up in a second...i always use flux just for better penetration...great freaking diagnostics...im dealing with this exact issue right now on a 2007 2500HD...thank you so much for the video...we are close by..im in pittsburgh..
Nice Find! Cool Tools.....
You of course will tell the Customer that you fixed his tps issue only, other codes comes back is a separate charges.... there is no stop for all fixes in the vehicle.
I'll admit, I just change parts until I have to take it to a mechanic, but when a "pro" is so sloppy that they cut stuff all willy nilly, that really makes me wonder wtf?
I've had guys drop bolts in my engine while doing a tune up, etc. You really need to know who you are taking your car or you will be screwed.
At least it is fixed and he can go back to work making a living, good job sir!
Hi moto, thank you for this up load, you saved me a lot of money.
You could use a small block of wood just behind the wire and probe with your test light so you don't stab your finger when probing.
martinguitarhd28 true. I have several bed of nails clamps. They are great.
martinguitarhd28 I pinch the wire and probe so my fingers guide into the wire... a sharp tip helps make it easier to probe
Us mechanics get lazy at times and try to beat the system.
i think you missed a step. the unplug test to see pull up or pull down on senso signal. great video and good tracking.
You're amazing. Absolutely amazing.🤩
Nice work Ivan. Yep, it looks like someone had a field day with that harness.
Nice solder job and holding tool demo. Use your solder tool heat from red hot area to shrink shrink tubing. I think the cutting the zip ties is correct assumption
I have one of them short and open wire tracers I got from harbor freight years ago works well
Wow, the early Ivan days 😯
When everything goes wrong and he still won't quit 🤣🤣
I learned to be wary of Mickey mouse jobs but that harness might actually have been a mouse job haha
Great job Ivan Part 1 and Part 2.
I can't get over on how HUGE that engine is.. It's bigger then my dad's 70' Buick GSX engine at 455ci (7.5L)! Heck it's 100 cc larger then the Bugatti's W16 engine!!
titanicwhiz well the 1970 cadillac 500 was 8.2 liters. Had 400 hp 550 ft lb of torque. They designed that engine to be capable of 600 c.i. Another cool thing was they weigh as much as a small block chevy.
Excellent Ivan !
Amazing job. Very well done!
Felicitaciones, nuevamente un buen trabajo.
very good those guys that worked on it before are Butchers for sure. your the man Ivan
.
Thanks, Sam! Yes, it seems someone got too excited with a sharp knife on this Chevy...
Nice repairs! I have a theory for that wire damage, those trucks were plagued by intake gasket leaks and many of them were replaced by the dealers under a recall/class action, stuff like this would happen during those repairs - ask me how I know this lol
I am a fan of Schrodingers box as well, I am torn between the scan tool he uses, and you verus cause I need to invest in one, that open/short finder looks sweet - great content in your video’s
Good stuff guy .
Thanks for your time .
Finally a great video of a Vortec 8100!!👍 I own a few and I've had this problem with one of them and right now I'm having an issue with my daily driver. It's a 2002 GMC Sierra 3500 4wd 8.1/Allison with manual shifter on the floor for 4wd(Basically same model as this one in your video). While driving, it will turn off and back fire a few times and I pull over and turn the ignotion off for a few seconds and it will start back up like nothing happened. The "Service Engine" light comes on whenever it feels like it and its really wierd but this happens more when I hit big pot holes or when Im towing a trailer and trailer jerks truck alot. My Message Center sometimes give me the "Trans Fluid Hot..Idle Engine" and Transmission temp is at 300°F . Normally it gives that message every time I start the truck and if I drive off like that, it will shift hard & long thru out all the gears. Then whenever it feels like it, the trans temp guage drops down like if it got unplugged and the truck will shift perfectly fine. I still drive the truck everyday and she never lets me down. I just really haven't found someone who can acually find the problems and and fix it properly without damaging anything else on it😏 I dont know where you are located but if I can get in contact with you, I would not mind at all taking it to you myself and having you work on it. Well I can go on forever but my contact number is 210-216-1785 (Galdino Rodriguez)and if its ok with you, you can call or txt me so I can talk to you about it or get with you about taking it to you.
Thanks again for a great video and stay safe my friend!👍
Hi Galdino, thanks for the comment! Yes they are tough trucks. I am currently diagnosing a 2002 2500HD with the 8.1L. It has an intermittent "Reduced Power", issues with the throttle control system. I'm in State College, PA.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thank you for replying!👍 not a problem at all, that sounds like a really nice road trip for me.lol. Im out here from San Antonio, Tx and will get with you as soon as I get a chance to take a trip up there and hopefully all this pandemic gets better too. Mean while, I'm gonna keep viewing your videos on these GM Trucks!🤠
Look your transmission has a sensor located in it thats wired in series to different electronics the back firing is from carbon build up and from intake air and fuel not mixing well. Might need to clean the intake valves etc
Top notch work!
Moto, by checking with the test light that way connect to the positive battery terminal, you are check for a short. Remember this circuit is open.
Great job very informative
Does anybody can explain me what was the problem I replaced the throttle body, pedal sensor and maf sensor and still shows up engine power reduced
🆘
please !!!
I just had a Sierra with the same reduced power problem. As soon as I opened the hood, I got suspicious. It had a brand new cold air intake on it. So I pulled off the connection at the TB and there was a rubber ring stuck in there. It looked like some sort of spacer or something, maybe for smaller intakes? I'm not sure.
The customer complaint was that if he gave it more than half throttle, it would go into limp mode and rev like crazy until he shut it off and restarted it. That was much easier to find than this one. This poor truck here looks like it was assaulted!
+GRowe1978 Nice! Aftermarket junk lol...there's nothing "cold" about those stupid cold-air intakes, and the filters generally suck.
motoYam82 The best part is, I told the customer that those things can cause all sorts of problems and he proceeded to tell me about how he had major problems with the one he had on his last truck! I guess it oiled the MAF sensor pretty bad.
There are a bunch of "cafe racer" dorks who live near me and their bikes run like absolute crap because they're running pod filters with stock jetting.
People are a source of endless amusement!
I don't think they even realize the amount of engineering that goes into getting a stock intake, air box and filter to make it just right for the engine. No use explaining, they'll never listen anyway. They think they can actually FEEL more power. LOL!
+motoYam82 Hey my 2500HD crew cab is having reduced power but it has a lost data connection code and a TPS code. turn it off and wait a minute and it starts right back up and goes. You think it could be a shorted wire also?
i saw a good idea for this on briansmobile channel he uses a tone generator to check a break in an individual wire. where the probe u r using will check all the wires in the harness inductively.
I always love watching your videos!!!!!
Wish you were located near me. I could use your services. Great video, It
seems some guys have the tools but, just don't know exactly how to use them.
That ect2000 is an awesome tool. I have to get me one!
First check for exhaust coming out the tailpipe to eliminate clogged exhaust.
Dude, I'm so impressed. you truly have a gift. (Snap on scanner just helps refine it). Just curious...how much was the scanner?
Lol same question 🙋🏻♀️ here 5 years later
Excellent troubleshooting, especially on that first batch of cut wires. You could work for dozens of hours without finding that. One thing is clear, there is no way whatsoever you can work on these modern engines without a scanner of some sort. (probably a dumb comment) I don't know if you need a multi-thousand dollar one like the one you have, but it's hopeless to try fix these things without a scanner.
That Radio Shack butane is a rebadged “IsoTip”
I have the very same problem on my chevy tahoe. so I need to go an check all the wiring and hardness thanks a lot
as eric says " there's your problem lady " !! :-)
Very nice work! THX
I would use a smaller diameter solder than what you have, it will help the solder flow with less heat. Just don't go with the lead free solder if you can it requires much more heat and is more prone to breaking with vibration.
It is a bad PCM/ECU that causes the Reduced Engine Power. I had this problem and went to a Junk Salvage yard and pulled a used one off of a Chevy truck same like mine and it worked. The previous owner before me replaced 3 Throttle bodies and i myself replaced one from Autozone and yet the Code P1221 and R-E-P kept coming on.
Change out the PCM/ECU do the re-learn
10 Mins with key on crank
5 seconds off
10 Mins with key on crank
5 seconds off
10 Mins with key on crank
the Last 5 seconds off you turn the truck on. And no more Reduced Engine Power.
I can tell you guys how many nights i have spent pulling what little hair i have left out trying to fix this problem. Now i can pass this info on. I have a Video of my Truck on my Channel. Peace
Well in your case it may have been a bad PCM. However, that is NOT the usual cause of Reduced Engine Power. The only way to PROVE it before installing new parts, is to monitor raw data and scan data at the same time while applying the throttle. In this case it was just a broken wire :)
Dear Pine H-A-D
In your case a wire however for people who have replaced the whole throttle body encountering the P1221 Code and after replacing the Throttle body and some times even the wire harness the code still comes up along with the Reduced Engine Power.
I have seen your video and tried your method along with others and still the Check Engine light and Reduced Engine Power kept happening so for many it's not as simple as a wire.
My answer was change out the PCM/ECU and Presto no more R-E-P so i am sharing what worked for me.
Thanks for sharing this video. peace bro fist bump.
On gm trucks always look at the grounds and don't forget the grounds on the frame on drivers side especially if you live in the northeast also look for corrosion and for mice chewing on wires under main fuse box .
Great info on my 03 Tahoe replaced pcm throttle body wiring harness all the sensors and still reduced engine power im lost.
Looks like the 2 copper ends wires were not twisted around each other? A good solder joint needs a solid mechanical connection, and the solder is to make a good electrical connection. I've had practice due to rodents chewing thru wires, chewing off insulation.
Thanks for the vid bud...however, I'm a little confused as to why, but, it sure looks like you tugged and pulled so hard on purpose and tore the first black ground wire though...am I trippin or what?
Nice Work Ivan!!
Dude - I had that Casio watch in 1987. The real question is how did you keep this awesome relic going so long?
Ben D, I have the same watch and it is still running today ( 11-22-22 ) . Although I have worn out five watch bands .
nice job on that repair
Your videos are excellent and, from what I've seen, way better than most. But one caution with this job. Using a test light connected to 12 volts to probe a wiring harness that's still connected to the ECU and the TPS is a bad idea. The bulb is effectively applying 12 volts to a circuit designed for a max of 5 volts.There could also be components in the throttle body that could be damaged by 12 volts. The ECU likely has some protection on the sensor inputs and outputs but you don't want to risk damaging an expensive ECU. It would be much better to use say an ohmmeter (which only apply a few volts at a much lower maximum current than a test lamp).
Thanks for your comment! Damaging ECU with a test light is a very common misconception. You need high current to burn up components, and 250mA is not enough to do that.
Furthermore, in this case I was only using the testlight to test the sensor GROUND, not the signal or 5V reference. An ohm meter alone is a terrible tool for checking wiring integrity, since it doesn't load the circuit at all. Say there was one strand still connecting the wire where it was sliced by the knife. The ohmmeter would not see that at all so you would think your ground is good!
Share the Knowledge :)
You are absolutely correct .you are way better checking circuits with a load i have many times seen where you will see correct signal voltage but the wire was cut or corroded and couldn’t pass enough current for the component to work
My Son has a 2003 Saturn L200 that has the similar issue. There's no power when you floor it and has a "Engine Jump" (miss) when tapping the gas in park. I've read of GM vehicles having issues with the TB. Could be a bad circuit inside the TB innerd's too. From what I've seen here that it could be a plugged cat as well, which I find remote. The check engine light flashes when it does this but no codes.
awesome video, thank you very much, keep it up.
great work, thanks for sharing
its called taking time to fix a vehicle the right way, without being disturb. the term mechanic way overrated, dealership pressure them to not waste time on said electrical repair when you can charge for a new part and bill the customer and make them more money , when you have other vehicle waiting for oil changes and tire rotation! way to simple , we fix cars should be the new name, at least i tell my people that , thanks Ivan, for fixing what someone else broke.
Try solder sleeves. You will love them . I buy 100 assorted on eBay for $12 to $15 bucks.
The break is usually just before or at the connector. Replace all the wires you poked. That whole connector should be replaced. Those cuts in them wires is very strange. Likely a 'junkyard motor.
Nice find, there. Cut wires in the harness!! S.M.H. I love to watch these types of vids. Like sma etcg that scanner dude. It's like watching an episode of HOUSE. Trying to diagnos the problem, throughout the whole show!! Hahaha. I guessed a cut wire in the harness, just as the video started! NOT! I would still be scratching my head. Good job.
+roadkill5333 lol sometimes I get excited re-watching case studies even after knowing the problem...it's really a rush when you know you're close to pinpointing the issue!
Hahaha! I've never had the pleasure of pinpointing the problem. The closest I ever get to pinpoint, is if the problem doesn't come back after I swap the last part!!! LOL. Yes, I am a swaptronics specialist!! aka parts changer! I've also been called a know it none! As opposed to know it all! I enjoy your vids, mostly for entertainment, not really the repair knowledge. I still wrench if I have to. But not much. I really enjoyed the latest collaboration from you and Dr O! I get a kick out of you guys. Really wish that part three vid could have been done, tho. We missed out.
+roadkill5333 Hey as long as you do a good job swapping parts, then you are already better than many "pros" who can't even do that without creating more problems (like in the Acura case study lol)!
You mean a part 3 to the Hyundai camshaft video? We actually did record it! The raw footage is still in Eric's hands...I've been bugging him about it for months now...he couldn't get them to upload for some reason.
Maybe you can talk him in to it! I'd hate to have to resort to begging!!
where does he get those wonderful toys
mark kcuf OTC has test equipment.
Great video
Hey how you doing, very good video, I have a Chevy trail blazer LTZ 2002 and I have a reduced engine power lights on when the engine is cold and i already changed the Throttle body and I still have the problem I don't know any electrical person that I can trust to fix my car seeing this video I would like you to fix my car (I live in Miami) thank you so much
That sensor is crap going through looms. The 3000 used w/ the powerprobe4 , instead of the supplied receiver, is only slightly better.
I have mixed feelings about the wire tracer. I got one in a power probe kit a while back and haven't had too much success with it.
Great inf.