HARLEY DAVIDSON TWIN CAM T-MAN 555 AND D&D FAT CAT STAGE 2 PART 2
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- IN THIS VIDEO WE DO THE RESASSEMBLY OF A 2016 STREET GLIDE SPECIAL AND LOOK AT THE COMPONENTS OF OUR STAGE 2 SETUP.
HERE IS THE LINK TO ANOTHER VIDEO WHERE I SHOW THE PROPER WAY TO UNLOAD THE VALVE TRAIN AND DISSEMBLE THE VALVE TRAIN. • HARLEY DAVIDSON TWIN C...
HERE IS A LINK TO DAVE'S CRANK SHAFT RUNOUT TOOL AND HIS WEBSITE Www.MilchRacing.com
Paypal Channel Donation: www.paypal.me/...
Support though Patreon: / harleydavidsonwizard
Thank you for these very detailed videos. If it wasn’t for you I would of made a few mistakes. My hats off to you. Thank you.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
Hi guys, I’m spaniard, I ride my RK Classic (96” 2007) for 213.000 km.
I changed several things: belt drive, main shaft bearing, rear rocker gasket, clucht cable, ,, the primary tensioner too, ,,
I take the maximum care and I see you do the best exquisite way to care the bike, thanks a lot 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I like the pickle jar you use to pump up the lifters.
Thanks. I got it from Jim's tools.
very well put together . also the video. thanks
I appreciate your time and willingness to share your knowledge. I have this job to do in the coming months to check my cam chain tensioner.
I've watch half a dozen of these cam hole videos and I'll watch another one if you make. I dont know why . I think it just because I like your professionalism and your attention to detail. I always have to do my own renching but it I could afford it I would feel pretty good about you doing the work.
Thanks for the complement!
Same here. Solid work
Good job! I prefer to put the oil ring on the pump and slide the assy in place, less chance of oil ring getting pinched. Everyone has their own little ways of doing things, Turned out awesome!
Good stuff man!! I remember watching your videos with only 1-5 views in total. Your channel is starting to blow up! :)
I'm trying!! Lol. Your one of the first subscribers. The OG!!
Another great video - Thanks Wizard!!
Thanks for the complement and view!
Great work my friend I have a 2016 manufactured heritage it seems to be a little more noisy than I would like but most of the noise seems to be on the primary side I have a video of my bike on my RUclips channel I changed the oil to my preferred oil and it did seem to be less noisy supposed to be low mileage regards Alan ps the shed was for my eagles before the bike
Thanks for the complement! Ya. noises can be a real mother to pinpoint and diag. Do you have a link to the video?
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard thank you my friend if you click on me on the comment you will find my channel and click on my videos you will find a before and after not sure how to use the link thing but thank you so much regards Alan
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard ruclips.net/video/gVV1FzqDNhg/видео.html
I think I managed to send the link regards Alan
@@alanmcclusky I listened but I wasn't able to hear anything unusual in the audio. That sure is a nice shed tho!!
Would I still be able to cut out the original pushrods and use adjustable ones with these cams? Don't want to have to take of the rocker boxes if not absolutely necessary. Thanks, great video!
Yes, absolutely
Great video & job Wiz !!!!
Thanks!!
New subscriber. Watched a few of your videos, like your style bud...
Thanks for posting. Great content and level of detail. I have 2003 and 2005 HDs, both low mileage bikes. In a few years I need to change out my spring loaded cam chain tensioners on the 2003 Road King. I plan to do the work myself. What are your thoughts on gear drive cams versus chain drive? This assumes the crank meets
Thanks for the complement. I'm assuming your bikes have the stock cams in them? Do you have plans in the future to change out the cams?
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard Yes, I currently have stock cams and spring loaded chain tensioners. I do not have plans to change out stock cams.
Gear drive cams are great. I only ever use them on a crank that's been welded and trued. It's a gamble using gear drives on a stock crank even if it's pretty straight today, who knows in the future. Say you did gear drives, you would have to buy new cams(because the cams are different) and between the gears and cams that's $700 alone. Then your left with the stock small oil pump and stock cam plate. I would recommend keeping your stock cams and doing the hydraulic tensioners upgrade from S&S or the screaming eagle one. That way your $700 is being used the most effective. With either kit the bigger hi volume oil pumps are way better then stock and the hydraulic tensioners last for 60k miles or more. And whatever crank runout you have is no problem today or tomarrow. I have gear drives in my bike but the cranks welded and there really over kill for a stock setup. That's my option. Thanks for the question.
enjoyed that ...thumbs up #405
Thanks!
Like always Brad great video !
Thanks!
The torco is good assembly lube I just dont like the smell 😂🤣😂 great vid
Thanks for the complement and view!
Another great video! What was the name/brand of the crank run out gauge. And did you say the bearing insert tool was also a Screaming eagle tool?
Here is a link to Dave's crank shaft run out tool and website Www.MilchRacing.com and yes both the cam bearing remover and cam bearing installers are from screaming eagle. Thanks for the question and view!
Can you help me with a issue my buddy is having. He has a 2008 flhtcu which is going through a cam swap and SE lifter upgrade but the oil hole on the SE lifters are not located in the same spot as stock ones and I can’t find any info on where the oil hole should face. Thank you
The direction of the oil hole isn't important. It can face any direction. I tipically recommend against screaming eagle lifters. The roller bearings inside the roller don't have a good track record of holding up. Feuling HP lifters are the best in my opinion then S&S next.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard right on thank you. Much appreciated.
Dude everything was so close to being murdered out I'm surprised he didn't do the tappet blocks and pushrods, good info on the cam plate bolts.
I'm susposed that the customer didnt do the black lifter blocks and pushrods also.
I like the contrast. I have an iron 1200 and everything is blacked out except the pushrod tubes. I like the contrast the chrome pushrod tubes against the black motor.
@@CactusJack252 he missed the passenger foot pegs as well! lol
molly lube instead of thread locker on bolts?
So do you actually use a torque wrench to tighten the inside lifter block bolts or just go by feel?
In this situation where the cylinders are on you gotta do them by feel. In my experience using a ball Allen boogers up the head of the screw and isn't worth the downsides.
I get a hard on for torquing fasteners. If I come across a micro tool that would allow me to get in there and torque it, I would buy it. Thanks for the question and view!!
I agree totally, I always end up using an Allen wrench I was only asking to see if you had a Jedi trick I could learn from you thanks for the great videos man keep it up I enjoy your dyno tuning video please make more of them as I am learning myself and could use some more pointers
A vacuum jar, cool.
Just curious what your preference is between chain driven vs gear driven cams? Why would someone choose one over the other?
In general I like the highest quality parts so I prefer gear drive. I have them in my own bike actually. The reasons someone would choose gear drive is... improved camshaft accuracy, as there's less slop as compared to a chain drive setup along with gear drive gets rid of the chain tensioner all together so then there is nothing to ware or break. But the downsides to gear drive is... there more expensive and sensitive to pinion shaft runout, for example we only use gear drive cams in setups with S&S flywheels or trued and welded flywheels. On the flip side chain drive cams are less expensive setups because the oem engine already comes setup for them and there are no expensive gear manufacturing processes involved along with chain drives allow for alot more pinion shaft runout and is better suited for a oem crankshaft setup. Thanks for the question and view!
I have a 2006 ultra, I am replacing my lifters and order feuling hp+ lifters, can I use screamin eagle adjustable push rods with those lifters?
Yes you can. At least I've been doing that for years.
Brad The Wizard thank you
for a bike with 2 k miles she looks dirty and weathered. good job btw. thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Would you say .007" is to high a crank runnout on a 2010 FLHX? Would a bolt-in cam be unadvisable?
.11=no good under .10= fine and I would do a cam.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard Thanks for the reply. I ended up doing a total rebuild anyway. S&S crank, S&S oil pump and cam plate, Fueling 533 cams new lifters, S&S 106BB stage 2 heads, supertrapp supermeg 2 into 1.
I hope I am not disappointed with the cam.
From a stage 1 96" it will be better even if the cam isn't the greatest.
I was considering the Woods 555 but was concerned about the different base circle and the overall cam specs being hard on the lifters etc.. probably not an issue.....
Is this the same procedure as a 2010 superglide?
yes it is.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard great thanks. I will save this vid.
What is the most pinion runout on a 2012 roadking
6 thousand.
Between 2 to 6 thousands is typical
2 to 6 thousands when replacing cams
Yes.
Do you think it's safe to install a se cam plate with 30,000 miles.