ARCHITECT AK 6.5 Magnacut Drops 10/25 @ 9AM EST Use Code gideonstactical At Checkout To Save 10% On Your Purchase! architectknives.com/?coupon_code=gideonstactical
@@gideonstactical before RUclips there was a cable TV channel called QVC which was essentially the same thing. I get it now. I'll not interrupt your marketing. Cheers.
@@user-gw6gj3is1j Right, survival rescue knife is what the SRK stands for. Since the topic of the video was survival knives I figured that @kpfagerberg had a good point. I personally don't like spending large amounts on a knife, and I'm happy with my less costly steels and having money left over for other gear. I've also seen a lot of beginners spend huge amounts on expensive knives and super steels before learning the skills. My opinion is better off with a Mora and learn the skills before deciding to spend large on a knife.
I think we can all agree the 5.5 without the choil is the superior option! I’m waiting for this model to come back with magnacut. I like the black carbon fiber sheath they offer 👍
Everything you covered matches my own experience when I compared a Rat 7 to the Lionsteel M7. If I didn't already have the M7 I would be all over this. This knife has everything I like in a camping/survival knife: high saber spear point, Magnacut steel, sculpted handle with choice of scales, pancake kydex sheath, and under $300. I basically paid the same for my M7 in Sleipner steel. Reviews like this one make me wish I was 50 years younger.
No rust on the Sleipner so far. It also takes and holds a truly sharp edge. However one of my most used field knives is O1 and rust isn't an issue with it either. I have two O1 steel chef knives and if I don't immediately wash and thoroughly dry them they will start to rust as soon as they're used. I think it has a lot to do with the hardness. The O1 field knife is a Rockwell of 60 to 62 while the chef knives are 58.
As you experienced - a full flat grind is not a bad choice for batoning despite what some say. It's just that a sabre grind is often (but not always) better. Even then, the difference often only becomes apparent when batoning on larger pieces & hard wood. For most who only baton modest size wood then a full flat will absolutely do the job. Take care.
Its hard for me to pick any one knife. But if I had to choose one knife for "Survival". It would be a Khukuri, with a 8 inch blade. Made from 5160 Spring Steel. But its not really good for food prep. But, here is the thing. I've hiked the back country of Yellowstone National Park. The summers of 1985, 91 and 95. My knife of choice for my sheath knife, was my Buck 119. But, I also carried a Tomahawk, and some kind of saw. Plus a pocket knife and a Gerber Multi Tool. One is none, two is one, and three is better. As for steel, as long as it holds an edge and is easy to sharpen, its good enough for me. My Buck 119 is from the 80's and made from a 425 HC steel. Its never rusted and its been through some nasty weather, both snow and rain. I do have the Becker BK16, and it is a very nice knife for every thing, but heavy wood prep. So each to their own. But remember the knife is primarily for cutting, not chopping or splitting wood. There are better tools for that. But that's just my two cents worth, from a grumpy 62 year old guy.
Not grumpy - just experienced! If you know you're going to do some serious wood splitting/batoning a good hatchet or small axe will be 10 x easier. Another thing you allude to - it's not just the tool but the knowledge how to use it that often makes the most difference. Take care.
My Work Tuff Gear Lanzeta is the perfect survival knife for me in terms of shape and size.That being said, 5160 is such a great steel for a larger hard use knife, I agree with you. If money was no object, I'd have 3V, my second choice would be 5160, next best would be 80crv2 or 52100.
@@seancollins3711 To be honest, I know very little about the steel in a knife. Other then what I read on the box or description. My Uncle was a blacksmith, mostly fixing farm machinery. But, he also knew how to make a good knife. He said, and I know I've heard this before. Its not what goes into the knife, but how its cooked. And I truly believe that. I know a bit more about steel. I know what to never buy at least :)
@@longrider42 He sounds like a very smart man, what he said is true. I dove head first into researching and learning about knife steels about 5 years ago, I am far from an expert but I have many examples of "superior" steels put to shame by "inferior" steels with a better heat treat. You can have the "best" steel in the world but it doesn't mean a thing if you don't know how to heat treat it properly. When I first started out in the knife world, I was always carried away with the newest/next best steels out there. It took me too long to realize that carbon steels and even "budget" stainless steels, like 14c28n with just the right heat treat, were my favorite knives ever. Listen to your uncle, the older reliable steels have been put to the test and perfected by people over many years and they're still around for a reason. Beyond folks like your uncle that have first hand experience, with the Internet at your disposal, all you have to do is look at the written data to prove it. Cheers :)
8:19 keep in mind, that was a custom heat treat on the magnacut and not just any custom heat treat but a heat treat by one of the best in the world- Mr BBB himself Shawn H. Not saying it is or isn't tougher, I'm simply stating that one is a blade with a world class heat treat by one of the very best in the world and one is a large production factory heat treat. I've seen custom heat treat M4 beat out factory heat treat 3v in toughness and edge stability. On paper cpm 3v is vastly tougher than cpm M4 is at with both being in their optimal hardness range yet in a case like that M4 killed 3v because the true magic is in the heat treat!
Smallish axe and a silky saw with the bk16 really don't need anything else ......along with a cold steel shovel and pot/alcohol, stove with some food and water.....always in the back of my Tacoma
You really need to check out some of the Manly knives, they are from Bulgaria. Fantastic values with amazing geometry and well done 62ish HRC S90V for 70 to 100 bucks. They are truly excellent knives and for the price they are near unbeatable!
I'm with you 100% - I love my Joker knives for camping & field work. Nomad & Campero especially. Well designed & made with realistic price - what more do you want? Take care.
Peak survival knife for me is the Bark River Bravo Tope Recon; I seriously hope you get to try that thing, it’s a 7 3/4 inch blade, feels quite light for its size, cpm-3v, and having a harpoon tip, 3/16 inch stock, high saber full convex grind, it’s forward balanced and “thin” behind the edge to the point of making it a wicked chopper, competing with much larger size knives in such task imo; extremely effective and punches far above its weight class. And the thinness at the edge doesn’t really affect toughness since it’s cpm-3v, making it also excellent for finer tasks such as carving and food prep and I’d imagine skinning game (haven’t tried the latter). And add to that how sick that knife looks with its mix of modern and throwback styles, with that deep fuller and full tang. It’s a beast.
Choil or no choil I feel not only depends on blande length, but also on handle length. The choil is, as far as I see it, there to let you grip the knife at it's balance point, for more delicate work. There are knives with long blades but also long handles (Terava Skrama for example has 9.4 inch blade and a 7.5 inch handle). These already let you grip these big knives close to the balance point, so no choil is needed. But having a longer handle also takes away from a knives ability to baton big pieces (to a degree. I believe 9+ inches is plenty to baton with). So for knives in the 6-10 inch blade length a choil can extend the versatility a lot.
I'll take my Tops SXB. 1095, tip won't break, it will do a number of things from being a hatchet to a pry bar. In a pinch, and I can sharpen it with pull though until I get home.
Imo finger choils are useless; I can understand them on some 7-8 inch blades as they may reduce some blade weight when doing finer work, but depending on the overall balance and blade length they’ll usually be useless and make you put your finger next to a live blade, on an, often squared off, steel finger rest, instead of on a contoured handle and behind a finger guard. Putting a sharpening choil and the blade as close as possible to the handle will be better in 99% of cases.
2 reasons I don't mind spending more money for a Reiff over Architect: I want to buy on my schedule, not their limited run releases that quickly sell out and more importantly, the handle.
As an old fart from Sweden, growing up in the forest in the 70s with a Mora with the red Wooden handle, nothing can beat it. Scandi Grind, carbon steel. Still have my grandpas old one from the 40s, and after sharpening it up, it is amazing. He cut down a christmas tree with it, using a steel pipe to baton, since he forgot his hand axe
G'day Aaron, excellent points and awesome design mate, sabre all day, every day !!!! pretty much perfect I'd say, and especially with all the options and fair prices too. Having said that, I believe the trick with full flats is the edge to spine angle, i.e. more angle, more wedge for splitting. I cant speak for ESEE, but the CS Survivalist for example, still splits Aussie hardwoods wonderfully. Btw; thanks for mentioning Magnacut is similar to S35 for sharpening, thats the ideal datum point for me. Finger choils; I'm the opposite, I appreciate 'em more on smaller fellas, but hey, pros and cons. I do like leather, though Kydex makes more sense IMO. In fact, if it wasn't for the inferior durability, I really like nylon as a kinda hybrid of the two. In terms of "survival" or a "primary" blade; I'm always gonna take a big bloke of some description, however a 6 incher, (+ or -), as a "secondary" still needs to be able to get one out of strife by itself if need be ......... and I reckon we've got that here. Cheers Duke. P.S. that sharpener looks interesting, ....... a review coming soon perhaps ?
How many people need a survival knife living in the suburbs. I use a Colombian machete for my years in the jungle. The best knife is the one you have at the moment.
I personally prefer the full flat grind, but the sabre grind works. I don't see the magna cut ever finding its way into my use because of the cost. I don't need or want a knife that costs as much as a car or mortgage payment - without it doing the cutting and work for me. ETA: My 50 year old Buck 119 still performs well. It's 420HC or something thereabouts and hasn't failed me. 1075 or 1095 works great too. I'm definitely not in the supersteel is necessary crowd
Full flats are for knife makers that cant fo saber grinds Saber flat is the best for processing wood and chef work in a camp setting and is far more stronger then flat because all the meat of the knife is gone Heat treat is the cats meow when done right 100% of the knife makers out there heat the whole knife The strongest way to heat treat is to heat treat just the blade and leave the handle raw steal . This combo is indestructible . Heat treating the handle is pointless its not a cutting edge .
Full flats are for knife makers that cant fo saber grinds Saber flat is the best for processing wood and chef work in a camp setting and is far more stronger then flat because all the meat of the knife is gone Heat treat is the cats meow when done right 100% of the knife makers out there heat the whole knife The strongest way to heat treat is to heat treat just the blade and leave the handle raw steal . This combo is indestructible . Heat treating the handle is pointless its not a cutting edge .
Love the video Aaron. I agree with you on your point that blade grind type is the most important aspect of a survival knife and it makes sense a survival knife have a Sabre grind over a full flat grind. That said, I went out of my way to purposely try to break my Esee 6. I pounded the hell out of it (not quite Joe X style, but heavy batoning, splitting, deep tip test, ext) and I couldn’t break it. Keep up the great work.
Yes, still durable as heck those esee6. I like the way the grind performs more on a saber and adds extra durability. I don’t know what it would take to break an esee6.
If I knew I was going to have to do A LOT of chopping/ batoning, I’d bring my Becker BK9. The false edge on the top of the spine eats up the baton sticks a little bit, but it’s a beast at batoning and the shape of the handle (although a little smallish for my big paws) allows for a secure grip for heavy chopping. We are blessed to have sooooo many excellent options nowadays. Just 10 to 20 years ago, there were only a few good options available. Now, we have a crazy amount of choices.
Love Architect Knives. I have variants from the AK 3.5 to the AK 5.5 in various steels. Performance is awesome, as is the price and options. Not sure about Magnacut in a large chopper though, prefer 3V. Only gripe is that the spine on all knives are not very sharp for a ferro rod (I believe they are going to offer a sharpened spine option in the future). Love your videos, keep it up! Greetings from across the big pond!
I favor my Joker Nomad 5.0 with N695 steel, it covers all basis, corrosion resistant,durability and blade geometry. Plus it’s a little smaller, but big enough for most jobs and it splits wood like a boss! It also cost less and I own one already 😁. I’d get the Nomad 6.5 if I wanted a bigger knife. I also really like my Terävä Jääkäripuukko 140 , it’s carbon steel type, but it’s unbelievably strong, has a great scandi grind and is one of the best survival knives dollar for dollar!
Mountain hiking I tend to prefer leather belt dangler for smaller knives, and kydex for larger choppers- lashed to my pack. Belt carry w large knives is aweful busting brush. Also dont like or want a choil on smaller knives, but give me a big beatiful choil on those big choppers- all day.
I don’t like jimping. I’ve never seen it done correctly, except on one knife: the Swisstech Haltbar in VG10. It’s perfectly done. It’s not rough at all to press into, but if you try to move back or forth, it grips very well. It is like the quarter edge. Amazing value tough knife.
I'm impressed with those knives. I'm looking at the blanks so I can make scales from some exotic hardwood leftover from my sons Eagle Scout project. I want an heirloom to leave to him. My quandary is over steel. I've only got another 10 years or so to be active outdoors and I already am quite fond of 1095. This video helps me out a lot, thanks. Starting to lean a bit more to Magnacut. I'm happy they offer so many options. 👍👍
They have their 1095 done by Tops, which in my opinion, has the better heat treatment for actual use (Esee better for destruction). Really can't go wrong with them. I like Magnacut more and am willing to pay the premium for either it or 3V, but you will need diamond sharpening plates to sharpen it (they are not very expensive these days, but if you prefer whetstones or Arkansas stones then you will have to switch for this blade). Either steel is great, and having used their AK8 model I can say the geometry, balance, ergonomics, and pretty much everything else is spot on. You will not be disappointed.,
TRC Mille Cuori is by far the best mid size survival knife out there. Esee 6 is like a budget option ,no comparison... Fallknivens too thick too brittle on the edge (low edge stability) difficult to sharpen handles - sheaths suck. TRC Mille Cuori has the perfect saber grind blade,made out of Vanadis 4 Extra with great heat treatment,versatile grippy handle and a great sheath. Survive Knives GSO 4.7 or 5 could come close,but they are not made anymore...So... guess which is the best readily available knife in that category....
The first thing I do with a leather sheath, is Water Proof it! Boiled Linseed Oil, is the best. I have knife sheaths from the late 70's that I made, that are still as good as when I made them. As for "Lashing" options. I've been using something called a Molle Lock, which allows me to attach the knife and remove it from my belt, with out taking the belt off.
With leather - agree linseed oil is probably the best for waterproofing. Been using it on my leather for a number of years. I also occasionally give my leather sheaths a good go-over with some leather conditioner just to keep it supple. If considering leather, just make sure that it's good quality. If the leather's low grade or too thin then all the oils in the world won't magically make it good.
I've had good luck with Esee's over the years but I hate their coating, it's like heavy sand paper. Good thing there's paint stripper. I prefer a blade with a choil since I have medium hands but I'd probably go with the AK 8 if they do another magnacut drop. I agree with you about the high saber grind, also makes it easier if you have a fixed angle sharpening system. The full flat can get a little wobbly on a KME.
I just ordered my AK6.5 in Magnacut on the strength of your recommendation. The 10% discount never came up but I placed the order anyway. I'm looking forward to using my new knife and finally moving beyond 1095. All Blessings!
That is strange just tested it and it worked for me. You can manually type in code gideonstactical anytime at checkout as well and should take the 10% off the price.
Not a hard choice at least for me. Got myself terava puuko 140 and 110 in stainless and carbon steel, I'm good. Strong AF and doesn't break the bank. Gotta love the ergos too. My distant second will be either the m311 spelter or the lionsteel T5
I got this ! 20 degree cutting edge so you can use a rock to sharpen it 😂 10 1/4” overall 3/16” 1.5” Finger choil G10 scales Chefs handle Saber flat 90 degree spine Modified pommel spike Mathematical balance No cut outs in the tang Blade only heat treat Carbon steel is best for fire steel but the above knife in magna cut would be fantastic Modified spear point This is my personal knife design Custom Kydex sheath and tech lock
Got an AK3 and an AK3.5 recently. They're both nicely designed and quality knives. Keep in mind they'll come disassembled and you'll have to spend 2-3 minutes building them but it's simple and fun. Just make sure you screw both sides as evenly as you can. One of them was missing a screw set, I contacted the support and they got it shipped to me quickly overseas. The custom builder page is fun and you can really picture the set you're buying and exactly how it will look like (even colors are accurate). You'll be able to to pick your steel but only from what's available at the time you visit the site, which is the only bummer imo as I hadn't had so many choices when placing my orders. I'll definitely take a 3rd one with a longer blade at some point. Architect knives => Recommended!
I have the AK6.5, magnacut and love it. I agree with you on choils. It is nice to have on larger knives but wasted on smaller knives. Question about kydex sheath. Does your AK6.5 have a slight rattle? It's not bad but don't remember the rattle when I first got it. Great reviews keep up the great work.
1. Outstanding reviews. 2. Either one would be fine. 3. I saw the comment on the Cold Steel SRK. Sure I have some. 4. My choice, confirmed by the sheath locking mechanism, is the previously reviewed Spartan-Harsey fixed blade.
If you look at Larrin Thomas' graphs 1095 isn't even that tough. 52100 is _way_ tougher and still holds a better edge. And no, it's not a "super steel" lol
Absolutely agree! 52100 is a vastly superior steel to 1095 in hard use knives. I've tested it with custom heat treat pieces years ago and 52100 out performed 1095 and 1080 in pretty much every facet. All knives was similar designs and geometry. I'll take 52100 any day of the week over 10xx steels in hard use hip knives.
I wish these companies would get rid of the finger choil and bring the handle up close to the edge. You lose leverage with the choil unless you constantly keep ur index finger on the choil. Which is uncomfortable
@@gideonstactical yea I meant the larger ones. I’ve owned the ESEE 6 and the 6.5 architect knife (in a different steel) before. I wish the white river ursus 45 would get stretched out to 6” but maintain everything else.
I am not sure the most people will see enough of difference in performance to justify the price. You could buy two Esse 6s and still have money left over for the price of a 6.5 in magna cut.
You could buy two Honda civics for the cost of one Lexus. You could buy 2 4runners for the cost of one landcruiser. You can buy two hamburgers for the cost of one steak. You can buy two high points for the cost of one Glock. You can buy two pcs for one Mac. You can buy two merrells for one Danner. For some people the first will be perfectly acceptable. For those who can or want to the second is desirable.
Great question. I would say that they are both awesome designs. The magnaCut will out perform the Sleipner steel. The kydex sheath on the 6.5 is a little bit better designed. The M7 is a little thicker heavier and has better ergonomics for chopping so ultimately in performance of design the M7 is better for bigger task where the AK 6.5 is a little bit better laid out for fine work and will be a little easier to control. And won’t split or chop quite as well. Hope that helps.
Some good advice and points to consider. My number advice to anyone thinking of buying any knife is to take a few moments to stop and think about what you're realistically going to use it for. eg. day hiking or multi-day camping in the wilderness. It's also important to remember that the knife is only half the story - you also need the skills & knowledge for survival. The perfect knife is near useless if you don't know how to use it. Ultimately both of these knives are excellent and choice will come down to personal preferences. Sharp blades all.
Hey Aaron which size architect would be your go to survival knife for most woods tasks? Would the 8.5 also be a decent machete or is it too short and thick? Thanks
I would say since I have both if we needed only one I’ll probably take the AK8 since you are going to get a little bit more spanning and a little bit more weight without that much sacrifice in control of the tool.
It is a great Knife. I just wish it had a higher grind so it would be a little bit better at slicing since the blade is so narrow. Great for stabbing not my first choice for woodworking.
I love Bark River. I just dont like how they do their MagnaCut sadly. There logic makes sense that they value toughness over corrosion resistance but that defeats the purpose of magnacut over something like 3V. But there designs are great and they stand by their products if you have any issues.
I received their email a couple of days ago and do want to order a 6.5 in magnacut, but I noticed that my profile is blank. Lost all of my previous 3 knife orders, shipping addresses, etc.
Ok so you like a saber grind which is my favorite grind as well for a do all blade as long as the grind is good and it has a good apex on the bevel. But what do you think about a convex like a saber vex or full convex?
@@gideonstactical that’s true I’ve found using a convex with a softer strop it works great as well as the work sharp the Ken Onion one with blade grinder it sharpens up convex blades so fast and effortlessly I would definitely recommend one to anyone who has any convex style blades.
Hello G., good stuff for sure! Hope all's well with everyone/thing! Keep up the good work and vids. Be safe and take care, "God Bless", sincerely, Randy. 😇🙏👊
so is this going to be available in just the blade only? or do we have to build a knife? If we have to build a knife and we haven't done it before is that going to slow things down and whoever builds theirs first will get it first while we are trying to slowly navigate through the build system trying to figure out what we want just to find out they have been sold out in minutes to faster builders?
Yes you’ll have to build it out on the Knife builder. Choose the steel, handle and sheath options and then check out. If you’re worried about it selling out too fast I would encourage you go now and find out which handle scales and sheath option you want so that at 9 AM Eastern time, you can pick the seal quickly click the options you’ve already decided on.
Exceptional video bringing details of specific knife design, construction and steels. Currently, I EDC (and love) an Esse-3, using it for farm, woods and bushcraft. It’s my fixed blade replacement for a folder (that I lost working😢) Thanks for the video, we can all learn new things.
As I always say...Survive what? Mission drives tactics and tactics drive gear. So what are we "surviving"? Are we really talking about perceived deep woods/back country tasks and not "survival"? If that is the case then the answer is a HATCHET.
A hatchet is undeniably superior for chopping down trees, but: -for what you need (shelter, fire) it would be overkill to chop down full size trees, and small tress/saplings would he easily felled and processed by a folding saw and a large large knife -for splitting wood a hatchet is objectively more unwieldy and inefficient in the wild; you need a decent solid base for splitting wood with a hatchet, which isn’t a given, and a felling axe is relatively inefficient at splitting wood, to the point that a decently sized knife with the appropriate grind will do a better job and be much more wieldy, with less risk of self injury/damage to your tools (you can literally baton in the dark, can’t do the same with a hatchet, posing the risk of overstriking and/or hitting yourself, and you also don’t really need a solid or let alone even, backing for batoning, the ground will usually do); at that point you’d need to also bring a splitting maul which, added to your felling axe, is already a lot of weight and space and still poses the inefficiency of general lower maneuverability in the wild. Large solid knife and folding saw (+maybe a folding knife for finer stuff) is the best way to go for wilderness survival and camping; hatchets and axes are for building cabins/processing wood for your fireplace/wood stove at home.
@@PTSDexplosion "Large solid knife and folding saw (+maybe a folding knife for finer stuff) is the best way to go for wilderness survival and camping; " Have you seen the series "Alone"? Check out the stats for which tools they take with them for true survival. The hatchet/axe is the number one tool over like 10 seasons. Many competitors do not even take a knife.
@@papimaximus95 The thing about that show is that they more often than not build fairly complex shelters. I already said that for more complex work that requires intense wood harvesting a hatchet is superior, but your average camper/hunter/backpacker is not gonna build a semi cabin with a ceramic stove or whatever. There's a whole lot more setting up that goes into building a fixed shelter like that, which is why a hatchet would be more convenient in such case, but in 99% of cases, especially if you're on the move and not building crazy shelters, it will be unwieldy and overkill.
@@PTSDexplosion " ...but your average camper/hunter/backpacker..." This is about "survival". You must not be familiar with hatchets. I take a small Fiskars X7 with me on all outings. It is FAR superior at processing wood than any knife out there. You don't swing the hatchet, you baton it like a knife but it has a thicker head for splitting, has a flat surface/hammer on the back and will not roll an edge.
As much as these debates and conversations are fun they are 99.9% hypothetical. After ones 4 days to 2 weeks at the camp site or wilderness trek or fishing/hunting trip were returning home to heated, air conditioned, flat screen tvs and stocked refrigerators. So its personal budget, preference, use case scenario. Outside of feather sticks and batoning no is doing much more strenuous activity with there knives. Most of us own a couple if not dozes of knives already and we don’t use half of them because we have our favourites and good knives last decades. This is just my opinion, i wish everyone joy in their knife journey and the content is always informative and entertaining. Long time subscriber and viewer. 🙏🤘😎
1. amen. 2. the skill is in the person and not the tool. Imagine a youtube website. In order to post an opinion about a knife as a "survival knife" , one had to have either cleaned a bird or skinned a deer at some time in his life.
Ahhh, here we are again. The “Perfect Survival Knife” the knife nerds favorite game. I guess it would depend on where you are. Here on the Gulf Coast, with all the scrub hedge and bramble we have down here…. You’d probably be looking at a durable, heavy use machete. What about the Pine Belt? What about up in Appalachia? What about out Northwest? You get the idea. All depends on the materials you would be working with… What’s the perfect urban survival knife?????
Sure do. But about 80% of my audience is in the United States so I will highlight that to them. Lots of people like to know where product is made. If there is a knife that said made in Australia, I’d be really intrigued.
A knife is a knife ...the modern knifes are all ugly as f..k .... a knife needs to be custom made and one of a kind...not this mass produced plastic handle shit ... carbon steel wood or bone and leather sheath...
And a car is a car, a house is a house, a burger is a burger, a hammer is a hammer, a tv is a tv, and so on. That is a really silly statement. There’s a big difference between a ford fiesta and a Lexus lx 460, i’m assuming if you have a choice you’d rather have a third of a pound perfectly cooked burger at a brewhouse then a quarter pounder with cheese at the McDonald’s drive-through, I’m assuming when possible you try to upgrade over a Motel 6 when you are traveling, I assume you prefer a Glock to a High Point.
A Survival Knife is any Knife you have available at the moment in a survival situation...there is no survival knife ...what you mean is a outdoor or camping knife ..just does not sell good enough if you call it that...
ARCHITECT AK 6.5 Magnacut Drops 10/25 @ 9AM EST
Use Code gideonstactical At Checkout To Save 10% On Your Purchase!
architectknives.com/?coupon_code=gideonstactical
Hey, I was looking at getting the 4.5 or the 5.5. Considering White River just released the Ursus 45 in Magnacut, which would you recommend?
@@sircassie891 white river makes all of architects maganacut blades from what im gathering. If that helps your decision.
@@gideonstactical before RUclips there was a cable TV channel called QVC which was essentially the same thing. I get it now. I'll not interrupt your marketing. Cheers.
I wish I had known this when I placed my order. Simply using your link didn't work.
My Cold Steel SRK in SK5 is still kicking it. Best $40 spent.
The SRK is definitely more of a combat/field knife.
@@papimaximus95 Yep, pretty sure the S in SRK stands for combat.
@@Greybeard1357 "Yep, pretty sure the S in SRK stands for combat."
A name does not change the functionality.
Survival... Right?
@@user-gw6gj3is1j Right, survival rescue knife is what the SRK stands for. Since the topic of the video was survival knives I figured that @kpfagerberg had a good point. I personally don't like spending large amounts on a knife, and I'm happy with my less costly steels and having money left over for other gear. I've also seen a lot of beginners spend huge amounts on expensive knives and super steels before learning the skills. My opinion is better off with a Mora and learn the skills before deciding to spend large on a knife.
I think we can all agree the 5.5 without the choil is the superior option!
I’m waiting for this model to come back with magnacut. I like the black carbon fiber sheath they offer 👍
Everything you covered matches my own experience when I compared a Rat 7 to the Lionsteel M7. If I didn't already have the M7 I would be all over this. This knife has everything I like in a camping/survival knife: high saber spear point, Magnacut steel, sculpted handle with choice of scales, pancake kydex sheath, and under $300. I basically paid the same for my M7 in Sleipner steel. Reviews like this one make me wish I was 50 years younger.
The M7 is epic!
How is the rust resistance holding up on the sleipner steel??
No rust on the Sleipner so far. It also takes and holds a truly sharp edge. However one of my most used field knives is O1 and rust isn't an issue with it either. I have two O1 steel chef knives and if I don't immediately wash and thoroughly dry them they will start to rust as soon as they're used. I think it has a lot to do with the hardness. The O1 field knife is a Rockwell of 60 to 62 while the chef knives are 58.
I hiked and camped for years with just an Ontario RAT 7. The FFG didn't hurt it and not carrying a hatchet I batoned the snot out of it.
As you experienced - a full flat grind is not a bad choice for batoning despite what some say. It's just that a sabre grind is often (but not always) better. Even then, the difference often only becomes apparent when batoning on larger pieces & hard wood. For most who only baton modest size wood then a full flat will absolutely do the job. Take care.
Its hard for me to pick any one knife. But if I had to choose one knife for "Survival". It would be a Khukuri, with a 8 inch blade. Made from 5160 Spring Steel. But its not really good for food prep. But, here is the thing. I've hiked the back country of Yellowstone National Park. The summers of 1985, 91 and 95. My knife of choice for my sheath knife, was my Buck 119. But, I also carried a Tomahawk, and some kind of saw. Plus a pocket knife and a Gerber Multi Tool. One is none, two is one, and three is better. As for steel, as long as it holds an edge and is easy to sharpen, its good enough for me. My Buck 119 is from the 80's and made from a 425 HC steel. Its never rusted and its been through some nasty weather, both snow and rain. I do have the Becker BK16, and it is a very nice knife for every thing, but heavy wood prep. So each to their own. But remember the knife is primarily for cutting, not chopping or splitting wood. There are better tools for that. But that's just my two cents worth, from a grumpy 62 year old guy.
Well said. ...a valuable 2 cents worth
Not grumpy - just experienced! If you know you're going to do some serious wood splitting/batoning a good hatchet or small axe will be 10 x easier. Another thing you allude to - it's not just the tool but the knowledge how to use it that often makes the most difference. Take care.
My Work Tuff Gear Lanzeta is the perfect survival knife for me in terms of shape and size.That being said, 5160 is such a great steel for a larger hard use knife, I agree with you. If money was no object, I'd have 3V, my second choice would be 5160, next best would be 80crv2 or 52100.
@@seancollins3711 To be honest, I know very little about the steel in a knife. Other then what I read on the box or description. My Uncle was a blacksmith, mostly fixing farm machinery. But, he also knew how to make a good knife. He said, and I know I've heard this before. Its not what goes into the knife, but how its cooked. And I truly believe that. I know a bit more about steel. I know what to never buy at least :)
@@longrider42 He sounds like a very smart man, what he said is true. I dove head first into researching and learning about knife steels about 5 years ago, I am far from an expert but I have many examples of "superior" steels put to shame by "inferior" steels with a better heat treat. You can have the "best" steel in the world but it doesn't mean a thing if you don't know how to heat treat it properly. When I first started out in the knife world, I was always carried away with the newest/next best steels out there. It took me too long to realize that carbon steels and even "budget" stainless steels, like 14c28n with just the right heat treat, were my favorite knives ever. Listen to your uncle, the older reliable steels have been put to the test and perfected by people over many years and they're still around for a reason. Beyond folks like your uncle that have first hand experience, with the Internet at your disposal, all you have to do is look at the written data to prove it. Cheers :)
8:19 keep in mind, that was a custom heat treat on the magnacut and not just any custom heat treat but a heat treat by one of the best in the world- Mr BBB himself Shawn H.
Not saying it is or isn't tougher, I'm simply stating that one is a blade with a world class heat treat by one of the very best in the world and one is a large production factory heat treat. I've seen custom heat treat M4 beat out factory heat treat 3v in toughness and edge stability. On paper cpm 3v is vastly tougher than cpm M4 is at with both being in their optimal hardness range yet in a case like that M4 killed 3v because the true magic is in the heat treat!
I whole heartly agree with everything you pointed out in the review. Love these types of reviews! Thanks Aaron!
The joker nomad 6.5 is by far, the perfect knife...
I’ll take the Esee 6 all day and I own the Esee 6HM.
I have a Becker bk16 for my outdoor knife, I have not had any complaints
Smallish axe and a silky saw with the bk16 really don't need anything else ......along with a cold steel shovel and pot/alcohol, stove with some food and water.....always in the back of my Tacoma
You really need to check out some of the Manly knives, they are from Bulgaria. Fantastic values with amazing geometry and well done 62ish HRC S90V for 70 to 100 bucks. They are truly excellent knives and for the price they are near unbeatable!
For me I'll stick with my Joker Nomad 6.5. Best bang for the buck I think.
I'm with you 100% - I love my Joker knives for camping & field work. Nomad & Campero especially. Well designed & made with realistic price - what more do you want? Take care.
Peak survival knife for me is the Bark River Bravo Tope Recon; I seriously hope you get to try that thing, it’s a 7 3/4 inch blade, feels quite light for its size, cpm-3v, and having a harpoon tip, 3/16 inch stock, high saber full convex grind, it’s forward balanced and “thin” behind the edge to the point of making it a wicked chopper, competing with much larger size knives in such task imo; extremely effective and punches far above its weight class. And the thinness at the edge doesn’t really affect toughness since it’s cpm-3v, making it also excellent for finer tasks such as carving and food prep and I’d imagine skinning game (haven’t tried the latter). And add to that how sick that knife looks with its mix of modern and throwback styles, with that deep fuller and full tang. It’s a beast.
Choil or no choil I feel not only depends on blande length, but also on handle length. The choil is, as far as I see it, there to let you grip the knife at it's balance point, for more delicate work. There are knives with long blades but also long handles (Terava Skrama for example has 9.4 inch blade and a 7.5 inch handle). These already let you grip these big knives close to the balance point, so no choil is needed. But having a longer handle also takes away from a knives ability to baton big pieces (to a degree. I believe 9+ inches is plenty to baton with). So for knives in the 6-10 inch blade length a choil can extend the versatility a lot.
Beautiful knife!
I'll take my Tops SXB. 1095, tip won't break, it will do a number of things from being a hatchet to a pry bar. In a pinch, and I can sharpen it with pull though until I get home.
review this against the Joker Nomad 6.5....Would love to see the results and opinions...( They appear to be Very Similar)!!!!
Imo finger choils are useless; I can understand them on some 7-8 inch blades as they may reduce some blade weight when doing finer work, but depending on the overall balance and blade length they’ll usually be useless and make you put your finger next to a live blade, on an, often squared off, steel finger rest, instead of on a contoured handle and behind a finger guard.
Putting a sharpening choil and the blade as close as possible to the handle will be better in 99% of cases.
2 reasons I don't mind spending more money for a Reiff over Architect: I want to buy on my schedule, not their limited run releases that quickly sell out and more importantly, the handle.
The Reiff handles are excellent
As an old fart from Sweden, growing up in the forest in the 70s with a Mora with the red Wooden handle, nothing can beat it. Scandi Grind, carbon steel. Still have my grandpas old one from the 40s, and after sharpening it up, it is amazing. He cut down a christmas tree with it, using a steel pipe to baton, since he forgot his hand axe
G'day Aaron, excellent points and awesome design mate, sabre all day, every day !!!! pretty much perfect I'd say, and especially with all the options and fair prices too.
Having said that, I believe the trick with full flats is the edge to spine angle, i.e. more angle, more wedge for splitting. I cant speak for ESEE, but the CS Survivalist for example, still splits Aussie hardwoods wonderfully.
Btw; thanks for mentioning Magnacut is similar to S35 for sharpening, thats the ideal datum point for me.
Finger choils; I'm the opposite, I appreciate 'em more on smaller fellas, but hey, pros and cons.
I do like leather, though Kydex makes more sense IMO. In fact, if it wasn't for the inferior durability, I really like nylon as a kinda hybrid of the two.
In terms of "survival" or a "primary" blade; I'm always gonna take a big bloke of some description, however a 6 incher, (+ or -), as a "secondary" still needs to be able to get one out of strife by itself if need be ......... and I reckon we've got that here.
Cheers Duke.
P.S. that sharpener looks interesting, ....... a review coming soon perhaps ?
How many people need a survival knife living in the suburbs. I use a Colombian machete for my years in the jungle. The best knife is the one you have at the moment.
I personally prefer the full flat grind, but the sabre grind works. I don't see the magna cut ever finding its way into my use because of the cost. I don't need or want a knife that costs as much as a car or mortgage payment - without it doing the cutting and work for me.
ETA: My 50 year old Buck 119 still performs well. It's 420HC or something thereabouts and hasn't failed me. 1075 or 1095 works great too. I'm definitely not in the supersteel is necessary crowd
Value is always somewhere in the middle. D2 and 14c are best bang for buck steels.
Full flats are for knife makers that cant fo saber grinds
Saber flat is the best for processing wood and chef work in a camp setting and is far more stronger then flat because all the meat of the knife is gone
Heat treat is the cats meow when done right
100% of the knife makers out there heat the whole knife
The strongest way to heat treat is to heat treat just the blade and leave the handle raw steal . This combo is indestructible .
Heat treating the handle is pointless its not a cutting edge .
Full flats are for knife makers that cant fo saber grinds
Saber flat is the best for processing wood and chef work in a camp setting and is far more stronger then flat because all the meat of the knife is gone
Heat treat is the cats meow when done right
100% of the knife makers out there heat the whole knife
The strongest way to heat treat is to heat treat just the blade and leave the handle raw steal . This combo is indestructible .
Heat treating the handle is pointless its not a cutting edge .
Super steals or modern steal are fantastic but it take s time to sharpen and limited sharpening techniques
Love the video Aaron. I agree with you on your point that blade grind type is the most important aspect of a survival knife and it makes sense a survival knife have a Sabre grind over a full flat grind. That said, I went out of my way to purposely try to break my Esee 6. I pounded the hell out of it (not quite Joe X style, but heavy batoning, splitting, deep tip test, ext) and I couldn’t break it. Keep up the great work.
Yes, still durable as heck those esee6. I like the way the grind performs more on a saber and adds extra durability. I don’t know what it would take to break an esee6.
If I knew I was going to have to do A LOT of chopping/ batoning, I’d bring my Becker BK9. The false edge on the top of the spine eats up the baton sticks a little bit, but it’s a beast at batoning and the shape of the handle (although a little smallish for my big paws) allows for a secure grip for heavy chopping. We are blessed to have sooooo many excellent options nowadays. Just 10 to 20 years ago, there were only a few good options available. Now, we have a crazy amount of choices.
Have many many fixed blades. My go to survival blade is my Esee 5 or my Esee Junglas. They'll both do basically whatever I need them to do.
Love Architect Knives. I have variants from the AK 3.5 to the AK 5.5 in various steels. Performance is awesome, as is the price and options. Not sure about Magnacut in a large chopper though, prefer 3V. Only gripe is that the spine on all knives are not very sharp for a ferro rod (I believe they are going to offer a sharpened spine option in the future). Love your videos, keep it up! Greetings from across the big pond!
Couldn't agree more!
I favor my Joker Nomad 5.0 with N695 steel, it covers all basis, corrosion resistant,durability and blade geometry. Plus it’s a little smaller, but big enough for most jobs and it splits wood like a boss! It also cost less and I own one already 😁. I’d get the Nomad 6.5 if I wanted a bigger knife. I also really like my Terävä Jääkäripuukko 140 , it’s carbon steel type, but it’s unbelievably strong, has a great scandi grind and is one of the best survival knives dollar for dollar!
That Joker is a great blade for sure, they make fantastic knives!
Mountain hiking I tend to prefer leather belt dangler for smaller knives, and kydex for larger choppers- lashed to my pack. Belt carry w large knives is aweful busting brush. Also dont like or want a choil on smaller knives, but give me a big beatiful choil on those big choppers- all day.
I don’t like jimping. I’ve never seen it done correctly, except on one knife: the Swisstech Haltbar in VG10. It’s perfectly done. It’s not rough at all to press into, but if you try to move back or forth, it grips very well. It is like the quarter edge. Amazing value tough knife.
I know it isn't "popular" like it use to be but I'd like some coated options
My trailmaster does whatever I need it to, for looks can't get nicer than the phenix bowie from puma. 6376 model.
I'm impressed with those knives. I'm looking at the blanks so I can make scales from some exotic hardwood leftover from my sons Eagle Scout project. I want an heirloom to leave to him. My quandary is over steel. I've only got another 10 years or so to be active outdoors and I already am quite fond of 1095. This video helps me out a lot, thanks. Starting to lean a bit more to Magnacut. I'm happy they offer so many options. 👍👍
They have their 1095 done by Tops, which in my opinion, has the better heat treatment for actual use (Esee better for destruction). Really can't go wrong with them. I like Magnacut more and am willing to pay the premium for either it or 3V, but you will need diamond sharpening plates to sharpen it (they are not very expensive these days, but if you prefer whetstones or Arkansas stones then you will have to switch for this blade). Either steel is great, and having used their AK8 model I can say the geometry, balance, ergonomics, and pretty much everything else is spot on. You will not be disappointed.,
I ordered my AK 8 with the Tec-loc but as soon as it arrived I ordered a leather backer and dangler. My Sharpal 210n is arriving today.😂
TRC Mille Cuori is by far the best mid size survival knife out there. Esee 6 is like a budget option ,no comparison... Fallknivens too thick too brittle on the edge (low edge stability) difficult to sharpen handles - sheaths suck. TRC Mille Cuori has the perfect saber grind blade,made out of Vanadis 4 Extra with great heat treatment,versatile grippy handle and a great sheath. Survive Knives GSO 4.7 or 5 could come close,but they are not made anymore...So... guess which is the best readily available knife in that category....
The first thing I do with a leather sheath, is Water Proof it! Boiled Linseed Oil, is the best. I have knife sheaths from the late 70's that I made, that are still as good as when I made them. As for "Lashing" options. I've been using something called a Molle Lock, which allows me to attach the knife and remove it from my belt, with out taking the belt off.
With leather - agree linseed oil is probably the best for waterproofing. Been using it on my leather for a number of years. I also occasionally give my leather sheaths a good go-over with some leather conditioner just to keep it supple. If considering leather, just make sure that it's good quality. If the leather's low grade or too thin then all the oils in the world won't magically make it good.
I've had good luck with Esee's over the years but I hate their coating, it's like heavy sand paper. Good thing there's paint stripper. I prefer a blade with a choil since I have medium hands but I'd probably go with the AK 8 if they do another magnacut drop. I agree with you about the high saber grind, also makes it easier if you have a fixed angle sharpening system. The full flat can get a little wobbly on a KME.
I just ordered my AK6.5 in Magnacut on the strength of your recommendation. The 10% discount never came up but I placed the order anyway. I'm looking forward to using my new knife and finally moving beyond 1095.
All Blessings!
That is strange just tested it and it worked for me. You can manually type in code gideonstactical anytime at checkout as well and should take the 10% off the price.
Not a hard choice at least for me. Got myself terava puuko 140 and 110 in stainless and carbon steel, I'm good. Strong AF and doesn't break the bank. Gotta love the ergos too. My distant second will be either the m311 spelter or the lionsteel T5
Terava puukos are rad.
I got this !
20 degree cutting edge so you can use a rock to sharpen it 😂
10 1/4” overall
3/16”
1.5”
Finger choil
G10 scales
Chefs handle
Saber flat
90 degree spine
Modified pommel spike
Mathematical balance
No cut outs in the tang
Blade only heat treat
Carbon steel is best for fire steel but the above knife in magna cut would be fantastic
Modified spear point
This is my personal knife design
Custom Kydex sheath and tech lock
Thanks for the KNOWLEDGE this will help me decide on my first knife
Glad you found it helpful!
Yep , @ That Price I’m Definitely Ready To Buy 🤔✌🏻🤠
Got an AK3 and an AK3.5 recently. They're both nicely designed and quality knives. Keep in mind they'll come disassembled and you'll have to spend 2-3 minutes building them but it's simple and fun. Just make sure you screw both sides as evenly as you can. One of them was missing a screw set, I contacted the support and they got it shipped to me quickly overseas.
The custom builder page is fun and you can really picture the set you're buying and exactly how it will look like (even colors are accurate).
You'll be able to to pick your steel but only from what's available at the time you visit the site, which is the only bummer imo as I hadn't had so many choices when placing my orders.
I'll definitely take a 3rd one with a longer blade at some point. Architect knives => Recommended!
Thanks for sharing your experience and that’s awesome you love them!
I usually have a hunting stile knife like my randall model 4 on my hip and a more survival type knife like my rat 7 strapped to the outside of my pack
I have the AK6.5, magnacut and love it. I agree with you on choils. It is nice to have on larger knives but wasted on smaller knives. Question about kydex sheath. Does your AK6.5 have a slight rattle? It's not bad but don't remember the rattle when I first got it. Great reviews keep up the great work.
Currently mine does not. Glad You enjoy the content!
Thanks for the video
1. Outstanding reviews.
2. Either one would be fine.
3. I saw the comment on the Cold Steel SRK. Sure I have some.
4. My choice, confirmed by the sheath locking mechanism, is the previously reviewed Spartan-Harsey fixed blade.
Blade vs Blade I still Love my BK 7 , But thats just Me ... 🤷♂️ Great Video Aaron. ... 👍 🖖
What’s crazy is a tricked out Becker BK7 with a Micarta handle scales and kydex sheath will cost the same as a MagnaCut AK 6.5.
If you look at Larrin Thomas' graphs 1095 isn't even that tough. 52100 is _way_ tougher and still holds a better edge. And no, it's not a "super steel" lol
Absolutely agree! 52100 is a vastly superior steel to 1095 in hard use knives. I've tested it with custom heat treat pieces years ago and 52100 out performed 1095 and 1080 in pretty much every facet. All knives was similar designs and geometry. I'll take 52100 any day of the week over 10xx steels in hard use hip knives.
1095 is kindof outdated nowadays.
Esee 6, kydex sheath with leather backer. All day, every day
Not really into carrying baby machetes, I rather carry a smaller lighter knife with 4" blade and a folding saw, thank you. SA bush war vet
lol My favorite knives have both leather and kydex sheaths that I'll interchange depending on what I'm doing and where 🤦🏻♂️
Man, your channel is the best follow anywhere on the internet! Love it. I also love my ESEEs but am ready for an upgrade to an Architect
I'll stick with my BK2 with a Morakniv Robust... Folding saws are cheap.... And a pocket knife... Done.
I wish these companies would get rid of the finger choil and bring the handle up close to the edge. You lose leverage with the choil unless you constantly keep ur index finger on the choil. Which is uncomfortable
Thankfully, there is the 5.5. Did you see that part of the video? Check the chapter selection there’s a whole part about both.
@@gideonstactical yea I meant the larger ones. I’ve owned the ESEE 6 and the 6.5 architect knife (in a different steel) before.
I wish the white river ursus 45 would get stretched out to 6” but maintain everything else.
Would the odenwolf w mini be a good conceal or pocket carry fixed blade? Or is it too thick
That little guy would be perfect
ESEE’s heat treat on 1095 is probably not a good comparison to use versus Magnacut. TOPS would be better.
You can take any 1095 and the hear treat White river is doing on all these blades will blow it out of the water.
I am not sure the most people will see enough of difference in performance to justify the price. You could buy two Esse 6s and still have money left over for the price of a 6.5 in magna cut.
You could buy two Honda civics for the cost of one Lexus. You could buy 2 4runners for the cost of one landcruiser. You can buy two hamburgers for the cost of one steak. You can buy two high points for the cost of one Glock. You can buy two pcs for one Mac. You can buy two merrells for one Danner. For some people the first will be perfectly acceptable. For those who can or want to the second is desirable.
@@gideonstactical classic example of reductio ad absurdum. Nice try
Great video! How would you compare AK 6.5 with Lionsteel M7? I was ready to buy M7, but now thinking again))
Great question. I would say that they are both awesome designs. The magnaCut will out perform the Sleipner steel. The kydex sheath on the 6.5 is a little bit better designed. The M7 is a little thicker heavier and has better ergonomics for chopping so ultimately in performance of design the M7 is better for bigger task where the AK 6.5 is a little bit better laid out for fine work and will be a little easier to control. And won’t split or chop quite as well. Hope that helps.
@@gideonstactical probably have to buy both 😁. Or different way. I would buy T5 and 6.5 (it’s excuse why I need two))
Thank you
Try your fero rod to hone one of these blades
Some good advice and points to consider. My number advice to anyone thinking of buying any knife is to take a few moments to stop and think about what you're realistically going to use it for. eg. day hiking or multi-day camping in the wilderness. It's also important to remember that the knife is only half the story - you also need the skills & knowledge for survival. The perfect knife is near useless if you don't know how to use it. Ultimately both of these knives are excellent and choice will come down to personal preferences. Sharp blades all.
Well sure, but this isn't a survival or bushcraft channel, it's a knife review channel.
I love the esee 6 3D handle. Best general knife. Grabbed 2 for the collection that will be kept new as you never know what’s going to happen
U the best !
Hey Aaron which size architect would be your go to survival knife for most woods tasks? Would the 8.5 also be a decent machete or is it too short and thick? Thanks
I would say since I have both if we needed only one I’ll probably take the AK8 since you are going to get a little bit more spanning and a little bit more weight without that much sacrifice in control of the tool.
@@gideonstactical thanks for the advice!
I prefer full flat grind!
Srk in 3v is my go to
It is a great Knife. I just wish it had a higher grind so it would be a little bit better at slicing since the blade is so narrow. Great for stabbing not my first choice for woodworking.
@gideonstactical agreed, which is why I carry the flat grind srkc for more delicate tasks, the srk is for the bigger rougher stuff lol
Have the ak6.5 in the 1095 and its a great knife
I love Bark River. I just dont like how they do their MagnaCut sadly. There logic makes sense that they value toughness over corrosion resistance but that defeats the purpose of magnacut over something like 3V. But there designs are great and they stand by their products if you have any issues.
I received their email a couple of days ago and do want to order a 6.5 in magnacut, but I noticed that my profile is blank. Lost all of my previous 3 knife orders, shipping addresses, etc.
Ok so you like a saber grind which is my favorite grind as well for a do all blade as long as the grind is good and it has a good apex on the bevel. But what do you think about a convex like a saber vex or full convex?
Convex are awesome! Just requires more skill to resho
@@gideonstactical that’s true I’ve found using a convex with a softer strop it works great as well as the work sharp the Ken Onion one with blade grinder it sharpens up convex blades so fast and effortlessly I would definitely recommend one to anyone who has any convex style blades.
Nicee the AK 8’s lil brother
Normally, I would say this presentation is just FOS. In this case your assertions proved to be absolutely true with respect to metal and grind.
Hello G., good stuff for sure! Hope all's well with everyone/thing! Keep up the good work and vids. Be safe and take care, "God Bless", sincerely, Randy. 😇🙏👊
Thank you so much Randy. Really appreciate the kind words!
so is this going to be available in just the blade only? or do we have to build a knife? If we have to build a knife and we haven't done it before is that going to slow things down and whoever builds theirs first will get it first while we are trying to slowly navigate through the build system trying to figure out what we want just to find out they have been sold out in minutes to faster builders?
Yes you’ll have to build it out on the Knife builder. Choose the steel, handle and sheath options and then check out. If you’re worried about it selling out too fast I would encourage you go now and find out which handle scales and sheath option you want so that at 9 AM Eastern time, you can pick the seal quickly click the options you’ve already decided on.
@@gideonstactical thanks! Order was successful!
Getting online and ordering a reiff f6 in magnacut.
Also a great blade
Just bought an Ontario Rat 7 from Atlantic Knives. Is there much difference between 1075 and 1095?
Some but you probably won’t notice on the rat, condor 1075 is very soft in my experience
Why a choil instead of just a longer blade? Same length, but less cutting edge....
Because than you cannot control the blades for finer cuts. Much easier to control the ak8 with a choil than the bk9 without.
Sabre to me feathers better flat slices better but i dont see that much difference . Choils are just plain worthless give me blade to handle
Shit, the magnacut 6.5 is there. But i already have the 3v. What to do. Lol
I would say if you already have the 3V version you’re set. It’ll be slightly tougher just won’t hold its edge quite as long.
Exceptional video bringing details of specific knife design, construction and steels. Currently, I EDC (and love) an Esse-3, using it for farm, woods and bushcraft. It’s my fixed blade replacement for a folder (that I lost working😢)
Thanks for the video, we can all learn new things.
Do you show also the AK.4.5
Yes it popped in during the sheath portion
Ok, awesome. Do you video about only this knife or in comparison to the white river Ursus 45?
@@juliansteuer6344 video coming soon
Thankyou, I am very excited about it.
As I always say...Survive what? Mission drives tactics and tactics drive gear. So what are we "surviving"? Are we really talking about perceived deep woods/back country tasks and not "survival"? If that is the case then the answer is a HATCHET.
A hatchet is undeniably superior for chopping down trees, but:
-for what you need (shelter, fire) it would be overkill to chop down full size trees, and small tress/saplings would he easily felled and processed by a folding saw and a large large knife
-for splitting wood a hatchet is objectively more unwieldy and inefficient in the wild; you need a decent solid base for splitting wood with a hatchet, which isn’t a given, and a felling axe is relatively inefficient at splitting wood, to the point that a decently sized knife with the appropriate grind will do a better job and be much more wieldy, with less risk of self injury/damage to your tools (you can literally baton in the dark, can’t do the same with a hatchet, posing the risk of overstriking and/or hitting yourself, and you also don’t really need a solid or let alone even, backing for batoning, the ground will usually do); at that point you’d need to also bring a splitting maul which, added to your felling axe, is already a lot of weight and space and still poses the inefficiency of general lower maneuverability in the wild.
Large solid knife and folding saw (+maybe a folding knife for finer stuff) is the best way to go for wilderness survival and camping; hatchets and axes are for building cabins/processing wood for your fireplace/wood stove at home.
@@PTSDexplosion "Large solid knife and folding saw (+maybe a folding knife for finer stuff) is the best way to go for wilderness survival and camping; "
Have you seen the series "Alone"? Check out the stats for which tools they take with them for true survival. The hatchet/axe is the number one tool over like 10 seasons. Many competitors do not even take a knife.
@@papimaximus95 The thing about that show is that they more often than not build fairly complex shelters. I already said that for more complex work that requires intense wood harvesting a hatchet is superior, but your average camper/hunter/backpacker is not gonna build a semi cabin with a ceramic stove or whatever. There's a whole lot more setting up that goes into building a fixed shelter like that, which is why a hatchet would be more convenient in such case, but in 99% of cases, especially if you're on the move and not building crazy shelters, it will be unwieldy and overkill.
@@PTSDexplosion " ...but your average camper/hunter/backpacker..."
This is about "survival". You must not be familiar with hatchets. I take a small Fiskars X7 with me on all outings. It is FAR superior at processing wood than any knife out there. You don't swing the hatchet, you baton it like a knife but it has a thicker head for splitting, has a flat surface/hammer on the back and will not roll an edge.
Love that Magna cut knife. That's more durable, thanks for you're info
And its not expensive knife ❤❤❤
Awesome (as usual). 💯
As much as these debates and conversations are fun they are 99.9% hypothetical. After ones 4 days to 2 weeks at the camp site or wilderness trek or fishing/hunting trip were returning home to heated, air conditioned, flat screen tvs and stocked refrigerators. So its personal budget, preference, use case scenario. Outside of feather sticks and batoning no is doing much more strenuous activity with there knives. Most of us own a couple if not dozes of knives already and we don’t use half of them because we have our favourites and good knives last decades.
This is just my opinion, i wish everyone joy in their knife journey and the content is always informative and entertaining.
Long time subscriber and viewer.
🙏🤘😎
1. amen.
2. the skill is in the person and not the tool. Imagine a youtube website. In order to post an opinion about a knife as a "survival knife" , one had to have either cleaned a bird or skinned a deer at some time in his life.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Ahhh, here we are again. The “Perfect Survival Knife” the knife nerds favorite game. I guess it would depend on where you are. Here on the Gulf Coast, with all the scrub hedge and bramble we have down here…. You’d probably be looking at a durable, heavy use machete. What about the Pine Belt? What about up in Appalachia? What about out Northwest? You get the idea. All depends on the materials you would be working with… What’s the perfect urban survival knife?????
Yep! The magic question is "survive what?". The term "survival" has really become a synonym for a deep woods or back country knife.
Convex. Convex. Convex.
Convex against a saber flat will loose every time
Yurp!
An algorithm comment......
When you mention "American made" as a pros, are you aware you have viewers from all around the world, for whom this is irrelevant?
Sure do. But about 80% of my audience is in the United States so I will highlight that to them. Lots of people like to know where product is made. If there is a knife that said made in Australia, I’d be really intrigued.
A knife is a knife ...the modern knifes are all ugly as f..k .... a knife needs to be custom made and one of a kind...not this mass produced plastic handle shit ... carbon steel wood or bone and leather sheath...
And a car is a car, a house is a house, a burger is a burger, a hammer is a hammer, a tv is a tv, and so on. That is a really silly statement. There’s a big difference between a ford fiesta and a Lexus lx 460, i’m assuming if you have a choice you’d rather have a third of a pound perfectly cooked burger at a brewhouse then a quarter pounder with cheese at the McDonald’s drive-through, I’m assuming when possible you try to upgrade over a Motel 6 when you are traveling, I assume you prefer a Glock to a High Point.
A Survival Knife is any Knife you have available at the moment in a survival situation...there is no survival knife ...what you mean is a outdoor or camping knife ..just does not sell good enough if you call it that...