BMW E46 ZF 5HP19 Auto Transmission Pressure Regulator Fix DIY
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- You can get this upgrade pressure regulator here: amzn.to/3cavZqY
The 3 most common failures on the ZF 5HP19 transmission are:
Pump bushing spins out & fluid leaks everywhere
D/G drum breaks & you loose reverse
Torque converter clutch seal blows out, you get a P0741 code and you have to replace the whole torque converter
It's been determined by a transmission builder that these problems are all caused by wear in the pressure regulator bore in the valve body. A company called Transgo makes an upgraded pressure regulator with o-rings that help to seal better. In this video, I install this product.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
The E46 videos on your channel are the greatest source of information I have found online as far as visual DIY supplementation. The forums are great but they are usually subject to someone else's photography skills.
3 years later and your videos are still relevant. Thanks. Job well done. Was just about to do my transmission drain but i guess i will have to hold on till this part comes in. Just bought it using your link. My small contribution to your awesomeness.
Same here! Thanks for the update.
Great video thanks for putting it out there.
To save some time doing the replacing I put the sizing rings on the split rings and put the whole thing in the freezer the night before doing the replacement, I figured saved me several hours of down time.
Here's what I did to remember where the torx bolts went. I made an enlarged copy of the template that came with the pressure regulator and laminated it to a sheet of cardboard. I then punched small holes where the bolts are positioned. As I removed a bolt I promptly put it in it's coinciding hole in my template.
After removing the body and the valves I took the already chilled pressure valve, removed the sizing rings and dropped it into the housing. Reassembled and torqued per the ZF manual.
As for transmission fluid I use Redline D4 ATF, never had a problem with the stuff and won't break the bank.
As I was watching last night, I was thinking about the same cardboard. Thanks for sharing!
As a Filipino, I love your channel. I remember back in Philippines, it’s pretty common to tinker with your machines by yourself. It saves a lot of money and you’re not gonna find yourself blaming somebody but yourself if you screw up.
good thing you uploaded this before I changed my fluid, now I get to do both!
How'd it go, I plan to do the sam
e
Did u nuke ur trans or is it sweeeeet as honey pie?
I think the regulator is often one of the first components to ware. It is continually moving with throttle and engine speed. Unfortunately this is often overlooked.
Just done this and the results are incredible. Along with a gasket/filter change and 10 litres of oil the car shifts amazingly still needs wearing in.
Thanks for the great instructions, After two failed attempts I found small zip ties better for retaining the seals than the supplied O rings.
I had the luxury of experience too... In the video Jason talks about the ear on the selector sliding along the channel, if the ear is not aligned perfectly it will pinch against the side of the channel as you tighten the valve body back in place and effectively lock the selector in place.... The solution is to make sure that the selector will have some free play as you tighten the VB bolts... yet another Homer moment and practice at draining and removing the oil pan....
Good video I did this on my 2001 330 e46 as front seal was leaking and started to bang into top gear between 35_40 mph at light throttle
I am am a Bmw Tec of 20+ years but we have no info on repairs so I removed box and replaced front pump seal.torque and pump bush was ok
But fault still present gear monitoring fault would be logged but sometimes light would come on
I fitted this kit with new oil and filter (bmw filter) and was better but after driving for 500 miles the gearbox is great all banging has gone and gear change is smooth .it looks like the seals need time to swell to seal properly
My car has now just gone over100k miles and most of my driving is town so it changes a lot
I recommend this kit .I got of eBay from US as cheaper then UK eBay
Also the oil leak from front seal has almost gone now as even with new seal still leaked a bit
Thanks for sharing! From a pro with 20+ years experience!
I'm an E39 guy but I learn so much on your channel. Thanks.
as a Marine that works on the ejection seats of FA-18’s. i can tell you we do two clicks on every torque. so don’t let anyone tell you that doing two is wrong.
I think over torquing some of the larger bolts will slightly loosen or release some tension on the other smaller bolts. Likely why some of them felt loose when you first removed the valve assembly. All of the bolts should be the torqued equally if its a flat clamping surface.
50's Dude you are the Man. Thank you for your instructional videos!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I have the same trans in a w8 Passat Wagon.
I just did what was supposed to be a simple trans filter and fluid change. Prior to this, no issues at nearly 200,000 miles.
In the process, a connection on a solenoid broke off causing the trans to bang into gear and go into limp mode. I retraced my steps dropping the pan and fixed that. Now it works great, but started leaking at front pump.
I'm thinking the pressure regulator is stuck causing fluid leakage.
I would be willing to try this before I pull the whole transmission.
Thoughts on this would be welcomed.
Another fix for this problem would be to swap in a proper manual gearbox! Just a suggestion for a future video. That would be cool.
I have one, I plan to do it. Just wanted to do this video first. Need to find the time--lots of things going on right now.
I can't wait! Want to do this to my car as soon as possible as my ZF is on its last legs, and courios to see if I'm capable of doing the job on my own.
def been looking into this on my 2001 e39 530i. Also has the ZF 5Hp19. there are some wires where im not too sure where they go and the exact type of manual drive shaft and diff i need.
just a thing i noticed: I recently changed my transmission fluid on my bmw e46 320i 2001. It has the same transmission ( ZF 5hp19) and the fluid i used was SWAG 30 91 4738, and the color of the fluid was yellow and not red. It works perfect, i did some research and I found that this is the equalent of the OEM fluid. I'm not saying that the one you are using is not ok.
Not to take anything away from the folks at transgo but I opted to go with the replacement housing . got it from Erickson's. It was not difficult and shifted so nice. like a new trans. There is a good diy on e46 fanatics forum.
I’m so great full for this man right here he’s save my e39 all the time
Dear 50sKid, I've been following your channel for quite a while now and thanks to it even managed to do some repairs myself, replaced the valve cover gasket was one of them. I drive 2001 e46 330ci (M54B30) with automatic transmission - ZF 5HP19 (A5S 325Z). My car has done just under 60k miles, mostly because of the place I live in - a small island in the English Channel. Going back to the point, I've had an issue with my transmission recently and want to reach out for an expertise. Basically, when I have my gearbox in position D and release the brake pedal car starts moving forward, normally like nothing happened. The problem starts when I want to accelerate - it revs up but not much happening, almost no power, like the gear is not engaged if this makes sense. Revs are going up to 3k, 4k rpms and are followed by this rough gear change into safe mode (cog light with an exclamation mark next to letter D on a dashboard). I took the car to a garage to check for error codes - there is a parking gear fault and wheel speed sensor error. We also checked the gearbox for any leaks (it's clean), fluid level is normal too. The guy who did the checks said, despite above faults that it doesn't look to him like there is something wrong with electronics as he was able to select gears through diagnostic's tool (when he was doing it every gear came up with E letter on a dashboard - E 1, E 2 and so on). Wanted to mention that I have reverse gear and it is working as normal and no safe mode when accelerating on reverse. The transmission doesn't make any suspicious noise either. What do you think about it? Have you ever come across anything similar?
It sounds like he checked the errors in the ECU but not the TCM. If the cog light came on, there are errors in the TCM and those need to be read and then you can proceed to diagnose the problem. You can do it yourself for cheap. Check out my bmw scan tools video.
Hi mste I got same problem car only moves 8n reverse with no problem at all
But nothing at all in D, 1,2,3,4
Did you manage to sort ur issue out was wondering if you could shed sum light .plz
Please help m8t.
@@ebrahimamejee8448 Yes, it has been sorted and it was a mechanical failure - clutch plates were broken inside the gearbox. I had two options, 1.get it rebuild (not cheap, around £2k in the UK) 2.find another BMW with the same gearbox and switch it. I was lucky, there was a broken BMW 530, bought it for £500 and got the gearbox out and switched. I sold the car 2 years ago. Good luck mate!
The vibration was because your bolts were loose. You probably torqued them with it not seated 100% correctly when you did the rebuild. In driving around it probably seated right and gave those bolts a tiny bit of slack.
Trans go is great installed it on m Allison Transmission in my chevy duramax, it's cool how similar the Transmission are
Superb repair video thanks for posting it i'm going to do mine for BMW 750Li (2005)
Z F. Transmission fluid I have purchased it is 10 quarts not opened yet gathering required material like tools and HD ramps. My car does not go in to park if it does then it won't shift at all it says transmission (P) range fault the code is (P1721)
AHHH Musical bolts ,dancing around in a scary game of musical chairs,,, I just get real jervis and nerky when I play with red blooded components....great job my friend....
I just did this on my e39 530. Seems smoother when engaging drive or reverse.
I didn’t notice any scoring on the old valve and only glanced at the body.
Do you think it still needed it? I wonder what the valve is made of it seems like it’s aluminum.
Hey my name is Sean I have a problem with the transmission on my 03 BMW 325i SULEV when I go to take off on it is starts to slip but then gripes just on the first gears and if you put it on the semi stick it takes off but you got to put the traction control
I have a 2004 BMW 325i that does the same thing,, I have 175340 miles,, someone told me to do a fluid and filter change and it might go away,, but with the car having so many miles on it and I'm not sure the transmission fluid has ever been changed,, when u figure out what fixes it plz let me know ok
William Avery well my friend I went to CAR QUEST auto got the right oil for it about to put it in let you know what happens when I’m done
Very timely video, I have mine apart right now. Haven't had any pressure problems though so I was debating the need for this. Then you mentioned the idle vibration.... I have that too! Hope this fixes it.
Car is running again, and the idle vibration is greatly reduced. It's not exactly smooth as butter, but you can't be sure if that comes from the transmission or elsewhere. I'm surprised that the vibration I had was coming from this valve. The original valve is aluminum and very light, I assume the mass of this new one helps keep it from oscillating, in addition to the seals on it. The oscillating pressure must be very bad for the rest of the transmission. It was a very easy install (with the trans already apart) and a good price for preventing future problems. I probably would have avoided buying this car if I knew how many problems the ZF has, but I'm thankful that 50sKid is here to help us keep them on the road.
Idk what auto tranny is in my e46 but it’s got 246k miles and no explosions.
I may end up doing this has preventative MTX when I change the fluid. Thank you for this :)
At 117000 miles should I change my filter in my transmission pan
Yes!!
Dont believe the "lifetime" fluid lie, i service my transmision every 40,000 kms or yearly
Yes do it. I emailed ZF with mileage over (100,000) and serial #, they said without question to change filter and fluid.
Hey 50sKid, Another Awesome video man! I have been getting a code that says Torque Lockup Clutch Excessive Slip, I am about to change the filter and fluid, could the pressure regulator also fix this? or is this an issue with the Torque Converter?
Torque converter needs to be replaced.
Hey kid, you would of saved a lot of money if you had sold the car. It nothing but problem. On the other hand it made you a good mechanic.
Hello Jason. Thanks for the video. I am living here near you in southern California and I bought 325ci and have been using your videos as a source of repairs. Recently I changed my torque converter with a recon rebuilt unit (the same company you bought from ) and after I installed the converter I hear kind of noise that you mentioned in the end of this video, like dinging. Do you know what is the source of something like that and how can we fix it. ?
thank you.....i did this upgrade....just a question......i maked it and put REPSOL MATIC VI ATF DEXRON VI, and all things good but after testing it by accelerating to high speeds while slowing down I felt a first hit and then a second hit and the transmission lost strength and the pinion with an exclamation mark appeared on the tachometer next to the D indicator, there I knew something happened, it I turned it off and on again and it disappeared but after a while it came back and it happened, then the next day it worked well but I didn't want to speed it up very aggressively so I checked and completed about 1 liter of oil and a little more that apparently was missing so all good but I feel a little lazy, and dont know now if some thing is wrong
Dead link for the pressure regulator, want to make sure you get the credit.
DEADF15H
Hey Jason, thank you for posting the videos, it's helped me a lot with the issues with our e39. -I did the transmission rebuild about a year ago after the pump bushing wore out, and afterwards I had a persistent bang when downshifting in the freeway or on uphills. I replaced the solenoids and that reduced the problem a bit.Then I decided to go with this regulator project and now the transmission has a error code and gets stuck on 5th gear. The codes I have are: -31 Symptom, gear monitoring -37 Position sensor, clutch -61Battery voltage, supply terminal 30 and -36 Batt.+ supply. -Any ideas?
I am very impressed when I watch each your videos!! Thank you for your numerous advice.
You have a new car since you changed every part! What is your mileage?
Is this fix necessary to prevent excessive wear or should I wait more?
It should be worse than doing nothing on a car which has no problem.
My 2001 325 ci has 95000 km and oil was drained last year at 88000 km.
It was about 176k miles when I did the engine rebuild and something like 165k when I did the transmission rebuild. This fix will prevent catastrophic failure of the transmission.
@@50sKid Still the same car. Happy to see your resurrection. Welcome back Jason!
Good clip. Easy job just time consuming. My car is manual, I'd do this if I had an auto.
Does this mod also improve fuel economy? Thanks for sharing your videos with the bmw e46 community
I don`t understand how the main valvebody can move as it is one single piece and the bolts from the rear lower valvebody are still in place holding tension on the main valvebody, therefore it cannot possibly move even if u try to move it.
Great vid tho
I have the same noise after I replaced my pump and converter! It goes away after warm up. Figured it was something like that.
Hey buddy , I want to change the solenoids on my 330ci 2001….can I do the change like this video?
Hello Jason, great video as usual, I have the same trans in my 02 330i and just had my first experience with a slight lag after a stop, even a rev where it felt that the engine reved slightly but the car was not going the same as the rev, nothing major but noticeable. Is this a sign of doom or an indicator of "I need to perform the pressure regulator fix" trans has 165K miles, been serviced once at 90K. Thoughts?? Thanks!
Hi 50sKid.
Your E46 videos on your channel are the greatest source of DIY and I always appreciate it.
I have E39 with ZF 5HP19 tranny but it is shifting very hard on 2nd to 3rd gear.
Do you think it is worth to try to change this pressure regulator change?
Please advise,
Thanks in advance.
I think a simple change of fluid might be a better place to start.
Jae what happened with your trans? How did you fix it?
U did a great job that will help later on one question I have a dip stick to check the trans fluid. 323ci 2000 can I add fulid in it if it's low thanks for doing that video
Please 50's kid. I have an e39 m54b22 engine on 5 series 520i 2.2 litres 170hp and i do change automatic transmission filter,oil and magnets in the pan. The problem i had before the change was the stiff automatic gear shift. Especially the summer days when i make a lot of kilometres or i'm stuck in the traffic with the D gear on it, it's really hard to change from D to N or D to R or R to N. The only think i can do is to put my shift on manual too hard again but is the only solution to start driving again. So i have a new oil, new filter what's next? Is that pressure regulator gonna fix my problem? I do sent my car on a garage here in Germany but the only think he did was to put some wd40 in the gear shift cable. Please try to help me on that. Otherwise my transmission works really well no weird sounds clicks or stuff like that. Ihave in my car 218.500 kilometres. I bought it before a year and i think the previews owner never changed the oil and the transmission filter. Thanks in advance you are doing a great job!
Hello. I really need help my auto transmission gose in to limp mode in 318ci , the symptoms are just jerking when changing gears There isn't any weird noise... thank you for all the help 😔😔
Thx bro awesome video I have 2 x5 both 4.4i just did that to one of them and it works great now but the other x5 has a problem after say u drive it for maybe like 30 min when u come to a stop it would jerk u somethin like a kick down, would be great if u can narrow down my problem plz and thank you..
Hi my friend I’m being fooling you for more then year with your excellent jobs in bmw thank you for that teaching.
I have a question also I just got a bmw 530i e39 2003 6 cilindros and the question is. It’s the same part the you using on this bmw for my bmw ?
Thank you so much
Is this problem only for the ZF gearbox? I have an E83 with a GM gearbox. which has run 300.000km. Love all your videos, keeep up the good work, waiting for more videos on your 325 project.
only for the ZF
Great instructional video. I have a 1997 Porsche Boxster with a ZF5HP-19 transmission. I am having a problem with the shifts sticking. The 4-5 upshift and the 4-3 and 3-2 downshifts are hanging up and slow shifting. Not all the time, mostly when I am driving it hard. The car has 57K miles. I am thinking solenoids are hanging up. You seem pretty knowledgeable about these transmissions. Do you have any ideas?
I'm getting P2736 on my '04 Z4 with ZF transmission. 108k miles.. It stays in 2nd or 3rd limp mode all the time. I just did a fluid change and filter, but didn't help. Do you know which solenoid is the TCC solenoid? I can't seem to find info on it. I'm HOPING the solenoid is the issue/fix.. Great educational and descriptive video! Thanks for sharing.
Question, why wouldn't you replace that entire portion of the valve body while you're that deep? Also, does this apply to the W8 Passat 5HP19 Tiptronic transmission?
Cost, I suppose. But you're right, if you can afford it, you should replace the casting. And yes, that is the same transmission.
How do you know if you damaged the cut o ring? I use my nail to pop it in but left the nail mark you think this will cause any issues?
15:30
Did you notice the alien face in the top left corner?
Heh was gonna leave a comment but you beat me to it
Omg 😂
Hello . please can you explain to me why you take the ring without the 2 small rubber ears.
thanks
After rebuilding the faulty transmission, what is the best practice to reset the error codes and the transmission control unit?
Could you help me with my Z4? Car drove perfect just seen the dreaded front pump leaking. The TC was shifting perfectly and looked great as well. I replaced the the pump with a new not reman. It was all pre assembled. Got it all back together car will not move forward or reverse. Only code I have is 59 stall?? And sometimes I’ll get the sprocket with ! Light but not always. Replaced. Fluid and filter as well while in it
Have a video how to replace torque converter zf transmission?
I have the same bmw but my trans looks ok but the shifter won't stay in drive like i have to hold it in the D position. Any suggestions.
Thank you
Huge fan! Love your videos! I purchased a project car for my son it’s a 2001 325i with a zf 5hp19 transmission. The transmission runs smoothly and great until everything warms up, then the transmission overheats and will not shift. Must wait for it the cool down and it shifts again. Is this a valve body issue or something else? I have changed the ATF twice, cleaned pan, changed filter, and replacing ATF cooler. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!!
PLEASE HELP
2004 330CI GM auto transmission 5L40E , when the car sits for a while after its been driven whenever I start it and shift to D there is about 3-5 seconds delay engagement, once it engage the transmission will shift just normal .
Zack! I have same car with same problem. Lmk what you did. My e mail vicorlando@lvmobilemasters.com lmk please
Does anyone have a link for the regulator,the original doesent work
Thanks for this! So basically for the new lower front valve body casting I just ordered for my 5HP24A, would you recommend this??? Did your TransGo valve work out well for you here??? I'm trying to figure out in my head if these two o-rings actually help or might even hurt? Would they possibly score the bore worse because the friction point being the new o-ring is much thinner riding in the bore than the original thicker piston surface? But that's assuming these new o-rings are harder than the aluminum bore. Which they might not be hard? Do you know? Thank you again!
These have been around for some time. Havent read anything about that. I would assume the next point past this $40 fix would be a replacement vb half.
Thanks for sharing your doubt! Don't think the TransGo people will design/improve a fix for nothing. And approved by 50skid.
@@fjwong7337 Thanks Frank. Good point. Went with a whole new lower casting with the newer redesigned main piston.
Hi 50's kid. You've made some very informative videos, which I have found to be valuable in troubleshooting and repairing problems with my E46 330i (esp. the ABS brake ECM replacement and the VANOS repair).
Could you please post a link for this part from Transgo?
Regards from Australia.
done, check description
+50sKid Thanks. I've just installed the TransGo pressure valve and taken my car for a test drive; the gear shifts are noticeably smoother.
Thanks very much for the video!
Hey Jason, you just have to get yourself a borescope...
Hi, my car (2001 330ci) just threw the code P0741 and I would like to replace the pressure regulator along with the torque converter. Will this pressure regulator fit my car? Also how can I find out what transmission my car has, so that I can get the correct torque converter. Thanks.
If there is a green label about lifetime oil on your transmission pan, that is the ZF transmission and this pressure gauge will fit yours
im a huge fan of your videos, hope one day you will have something for some newer models of BMW😉
excellent video, i got a '01 vw passat 2.8 with the same transmission, i'm recently experiencing some issues after a long drive of warm up 20 min+, it acts a bit delayed upshift 3 to 4 gear. Could it be a problem with the pressure regulator valve? or it might be a problem with a solenoid? during cold start drive upshifts normal five gears, the main problem is with the 3-4 upshift. and yesterday i noticed that on an uphill it felt like a lack of power downshifting weird too and felt a sudden bang shift.
Hei 50skid! I have a problem and could not find it. 5hp19 goes all the way to 5th gear, but when it has to come back to 1st it stops in 3rd and stays there. Even from a stop it starts on 3rd. Could it be the pressure regulator too or the solenoids or hidraulic block?
It has new oil and new oil filter
Mine is a ZF 5HP24 very similar in a '01 740. Would you say this is an "upgrade" if your transmission is acting up or even if it is running with no problems? Having a little seal like that be my only line of defense makes me nervous unless of course the bore is already damaged and your trying to fill the gap as a last resort. Am I looking at it the wrong way? Any idea of the life expectancy of those 2 seals?
BTW do you know if there is any chance to install a temperature sensor by either drilling a hole on the side of the pan or some other plug on the side of the tranny that is not used? Thanks. Excellent video, easy to understand
I have a bmw 330i it going into limp mode after driving it for the transmission I change fluid it’s drives fine but back into limp mode but I have a code for my camshafts sensor I’m ready to replace will that fix the issue because my transmission shifts fine then I’m driving then it jerks and into limp mode I have to clear the codes it says 95 wheel spin and glue something clear the code the car drives fine
Hi! Thanks for helpful video, i have a question? Why you remove 2 "O" ring out?
Does this really fix the trans? Is it like the intermediate shaft repair on the non turbo porsche 996 or swirl flap blanks on the 3 litre diesel? 😎
one quick question 50'skid what's the difference between ZF5HP-24PR and ZF5HP-19-PR it's also made by the same maker? and will either one fit?
The 24PR is for the 5HP24 transmission that is found in the X5 (and 5 series I believe). It will not fit the 5HP19 trans.
50sKid thank you for your great videos!!! watched all of them...
Hey 50s kid thx for a great vid ,, can you tell me whic of the six solenoids is the pressure contol one ? thx
Do you know the dimensions for each of the pressure regulators o-rings?
I've got a 2001 330i with 118k miles on it and after watching this video I suspect I might need to do this soon. I haven't got any error codes but it feels like the transmission is running at higher pressure than it's supposed to. When I switch to Drive or Reverse, it sinks or raises in the rear instantly and as soon as I release the brakes it kind of launches, without any input to the throttle and with the car idling at the correct level. Would this describe a faulty pressure regulator or is it just the way these cars are? The only other auto E46 I've had is a 320d which has the GM transmission and it's a lot smoother IMO.
Hi I have a BMW 325i 2004 that I've been having problems I think something to do with my transmission, it does not feel like sliping but it feels like someone rear hit me and I can heard like a real hit, it usually happens when driving in low speed.? what do you think is my problem? there is no engine light nor any codes when place a scanner on it?
Great video, this is just what I need! Can I buy a ZF 5HP19 valve body that already has the pressure regulator upgrade?
Why are the new O rings removed from the valve? Doesn't the new PR use those?
I have a BMW 2000 318i when in gear has to go to 300 RPM before it move and when it move it moves in 2nd gear what could be the problem
I’m also thinking about converting my automatic to manual can you do a build like that or at least give us some pointers
You have footage taking off the rear valve assembly for TCC solenoid swap?
After following your videos , and doing this update, I fixed my reverse but now I’m stuck in a limp mode, the car won’t shift normally . I don’t know what went wrong
I think you have to reset it too?
@@GabrielGonzalez-pn6dp i reset it that didn’t work ,I had a professional shop rebuild it after wards , that didn’t work , I changed the valve body to fix it
@@grim4187 gotcha. About to start my complete rebuild so hopefully after all of it I won’t come across any issues. I have a spare 5hp19 that lost reverse just in case.
@@GabrielGonzalez-pn6dp hey man , my only advice is don’t open up the valve body to change the gasket , leave that thing sealed . It’s what messed me up
Hi mate had a trains fluid change on e46 2.2 and now I’ve got a shudder in reverse. It’s was fine before change. All other gears are fine if not better! Is there reverse gear shudder down to pressers spikes? Thanks
is there a video out there to show you where the torque converter solenoid switch is on 1999 528l
Hi, thanks for the videos. I have a question. My 325xi 2005 shudders briefly in in one of the lower gears as I am accelerating, I believe when it is shifting. Any thoughts on simplest possible fix?
Hello there .. I have a 325i automatic and I drained the transmission fluid only 1 liter came out and it was black but no burning smell is this normal? And how much fluid do i have to put back in? Thanks .
Hi pal many thanks for this brilliant video i was just wondering if you know about the problem i am facing with my bmw e46 330ci 3004 where gearbox is fine when its cold but when car gets warm and i select the reverse it takes its time to get into reverse and it feel like for few seconds its not engaged yet ?! have you come across this issue before ? thanks for your kind reply in advanced :)
My 03 E39 530i with 5HP19 has a strange behavior on the highway, mainly up hills. It'll be in 5th gear with the converter locked, and suddenly the car will have a very slight lurch and the converter unlocks. This is with me keeping a constant throttle position. Do you think this is caused by pressure spikes because of a worn regulator bore?
It has 170k miles on it, I did two back to back fluid changes on it at 168k right when I bought the car.
Do you need to reset transmission light after the job? Bc the light gear symbol is still on.
Hello,Pls which of the valves is the N92 or valve 5 cos i've been having these code 00266-static short circuit to positive.
this is on a 1999 vw passat B5.
Pls help me.
Would it fix my P0741 code ?
Great video by the way. Kind of scary with all those different bolts .
Jason lots of E46 owners get a P0741 code time for a video of how to fix it ?
I will do a video answering this question this week.
Potentially it's too late if you already have po741
On My 04 325i, 98k (automatic trans) it sometimes feels like it jumped out of gear, or disengages. Usually on hard acceleration. Then the RPMs drop (needle bouncing),slowly dies. As soon as I turn it off and back on it runs fine. No codes kicked on. I wonder if this can be the cause.
8nm for t40 6nm for others
hello i got the 000004 pressure controller eds4 fault and its locked up in 4 gear do you think its same problem
Hi 50's Kid! Your videos are very helpful and I am one of your channel's greatest fans. Me too, I currently own e46 320i 2003 with automatic transmission (ZF5HP19). The problem is the clunk noise from the rear that I hear frequently when coming to a full stop or when I slow down up to 20 km/h or when I drop the throttle on a climb. I think it is a noise that makes the AT when shifting to 1 or 2 gear, because I have checked all the differential bushings and subframe mounts all is like new with no cracks or signs of a wear. The transmission fluid and filter have been also changed with OEM ones and the control unit was cleaned. Can you please advise what can be the cause? The diagnostic tool does not show any errors neither for transmission nor for other parts (engine and etc.). One thing that I doubt is the MAF sensor which shows a bit low reading 10 g/s. Can this somehow affect the shifting or I need to look somewhere else?
Sorry for a long story, but your advise might be very helpful as I don't know where to look :) Many thanks in advance for your time!!
Did you check your drive shaft giubo?
From the first look the giubo looks OK (I have not removed it to examine). Shall I remove it? Also, in winter the clunk was more frequent than in hot weather.
On a separate note, I was looking in the morning and realised that maybe I am also having an exhaust leak (a bit of smoke was coming from the exhaust manifold part). Eventually no codes are dropped during diagnostic. Can the leak somehow affect?
Very helpful，can it solve P0798&P0778？
does the GM automatic transmission have any valve body issues? Any references to read you or anyone know of?