Tim, you are gold! I was hesitant to purchase the 650i due to its age and common problems (which are ludicrously expensive). But your guidance has given me the confidence and knowledge to know the issues to look out for and how to fix. Cheers buddy. Time for me to search for a mechanic to tag along, before I purchase the car 🙂
Thank-you for this. I always wondered why my E46 330ci was reluctant to initially accelerate hard in Drive and seemed quite happy just cruising along. Then I realised that Sport mode and changing down wakes the car up, and it knows you mean business!
Really appreaciate these videos timm, grew up in my dads 645 when I was 2 or 3 and after selling the old gal and buying a newer 650 in 2010, it passed down to me when i went to uni last year and i hope to make it last forever (no worry she's not being abused)
Timm, I see that the under hood insulation on your car looks a bit wonky like mine did. I have a 2005 645CI Cabriolet w/ 75K. I looked into replacing the insulation and found it quite costly especially when there was nothing really wrong with the insulation that I had other than the "tabs" no longer fit within the slots in the hood. I trimmed the tabs and cleaned it all very well and then used a silicone adhesive to re-install it. I am no longer embarrassed to open the hood. It looks so much better. I was thinking that as nice as your car is that this would be a simple solution and your subscribers may enjoy this one afternoon low cost upgrade. Please keep it up, I cannot tell you how much I appreciate all of your videos. Many thanks from the U.S.! Jon Warren
I have been doing this since i got my 550i v8, but i also installed a Sprint Booster, which kinda does the same thing, but on Comfort mode (D), i only use Left Up>Up when i need for it aggressive maneuvers😂. Thanks, Tim, for quality content as usual.
Brilliant! I have a manual, so other techniques to make the car understand you mean business, but same concept. You need to communicate with the car to get the car to talk to you and give you the best that it has. This is the antithesis of the appliance/car mentality that is popular these days. 😊
1000% this. Been doing it for years.. As Timm says, it becomes a second nature movement, and it also lets passengers in your car know, that they should brace themselves. 😂 Throwing it into sport mode also puts the pedal into a more direct mode mode with the throttle, or some some would say more sensitive. Experience with an e53 4.8is and e39 M5 (manual). The e38 740 doesn’t have steptronic, so I can only drop it down a gear. I wasn’t aware of the why behind the torque converter lockup, I only knew it worked. 😅
You can use the D432 boxes in manual mode, I used to do that in my E32. Start off in 2 and sports mode selected (1st gear), switch sports mode off (2nd) then you have 3 (3rd), 4 (4th) and back into D for 5th. It takes a bit of getting used to but is great fun
I think the D432 and even the 6HP start off in 2nd gear by default, unless you put them into sport mode. With the D432, dropping it into 4 will cause it to select 1st from a stop.
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation I just got a 2004 330ci I use manual mode quite a bit but it always makes my left foot twitch instinctively is looking for a clutch pedal because I am used to my 5 speed Subaru. Driving it back from delivery I almost blew a stop sign at a rest stop in the dark and desperately tried to mash a nonexistent clutch pedal with my left foot with my right on the brake then had a 2 second panic attack thinking I stalled the car. In auto mode im fine but there is some kind of weird grey zone for my brain having it in the manual mode. I even do things like accidentally downshifting it from 4th to 3rd instead of going to 5th because my brain knows 5th gear is a forward push from 4th gear on a manual car.
Thanks Tim. Another great vid. I drive my 630i like this to get the best out of it, but mine has a different intermittent hesitation where the engine literally does not fire on any cylinders for a second or so if I press the accelerator anything like quickly. If I lift off before the revs have died off completely and reapply smoothly, no issues. If I don't lift off, the engine will die completely or backfire through the inlet manifold. It only happens once every blue moon (every 3 or 4 weeks) when driving, and using the the method in this video certainly reduces the occurrence. I can force it to happen when not driving by just pressing the accelerator quickly to the floor from idle (once the engine is warmed up). It won't happen if the engine is cold and still on fast idle. I don't know if you remember the accelerator pump on an old school carb? If this pump wasn't squirting fuel down the throat of the carb during fast throttle opening, you would get exactly the same symptom as I'm seeing. No faults ever showing in the ECU. I' plan to remove and check the DISA valves and the VANOS solenoids first as they are easy to do, but both of these should be throwing codes if not working...? Any ideas..?
N52 here also. Absolutely identical situation. Changed plugs, coils etc and no change. Did the pcv recently. No change. Mine doesn't actually misfire but it essentially freezes. Engine holds in a near idle like rev and it's almost as if time has stopped, desire foot being near flat on the throttle. Lift off and try again with a less aggressive press of the throttle and then it's fine. If you're pulling out onto a fast Road it's a potential hazard. Let me know if you resolve it!
Hi Tim, it still happens when the DTC is off... i'm tempted to say it's slightly better, but that may be psychological. It's certainly still there though..
I own a 2005 645ci with right at 75k miles. I just a few days ago drove it “spiritedly” for about 100 miles on a nice country road and the car performed very well and as expected. Last night I decided to take my wife for gelato and less than a mile down the road pulling out of my neighborhood the car suddenly shut down and stopped with no warning. A big red light came on that I have never seen before. It would not restart for a couple of minutes but finally did. I was able to get the car home but just as I was pulling in the driveway I noticed reduced engine power came on. Once parked I turned it off and restarted it and everything went back to normal. I do keep the car on a batty tender so the voltage was good. What would possibly have caused this very worrisome episode? Thank you for all of the driveway hints and repairs. I recently was able to replace my cabin filters and flush the under hood drains with your help. Keep it up all of this is very much appreciated!
do you have a code scanner? if not just go to the car parts shop or the mechanic and tell them to scan it and give you the codes that will tell you exactly what it is but without those codes it’s impossible to tell it’s just a guessing game
Just brilliant! Gotta try this now also after I had changed spark plugs, stuck DISA valves, all the possible oils and liquids; and cleaned vanos solenoids and valves. 😀 (tbh all those things needed to be changed anyway long time ago also, but previous owner apparently didn't bother... so not sad about changing them. got rid of rough idle and horrible fuel consumption, but the hesitation was still there...)
Iv always thought that of my e63 but assumed that it was something to do with a sensor or just old age. So now I can stop worrying about it . Kinda all makes sense now that it's been explained. And this bit of advice costs me nothing. Which is unusual for my old car 😀👍Thanks again Timm .
Good chat, useful every day, and 100% accurate for me. Some of this is new analysis to me and greatly improves performance on demand in my 328i. Some of this gives the words needed to explain that certain performance lag I have long observed and have been trying to overcome. How the doodad mechanically works with the flux capacitor is new to me. The power lag when flooring the gas pedal of my 328i has always been disappointing because flooring it does not instantly produce speed and and power wanted in exchange for max use of fuel. One second is too long to wait to get up and go. Sport Mode alone is enough performance for most situations but laying the shift on top of Sport Mode gives the instant muscle that is sometimes needed. Improving traffic flow for others is half the fun. This maneuver makes driving better for me and drivers near me who want to pass, change lanes, or are unsighted of the road and traffic ahead.
Awesome Timm. It's all music to me. I put my 97 540i into sport mode (left) and away she goes. If I was really crawling along behind a truck I'd go left and down for third. You just add detail to the stuff I instinctively know and worked out and that's why I appreciate your videos so much. Didn't know about the torque converter stuff.
Personally the best way to get rid of the hesitation or drop down as you accelerate hard is to fit an induction kit, the issue is due to air flow as the normal intake restricts it when flooring it too much There is only one I could find for the 650i I imported from America. Yes it £300 but the difference is amazing. It is proven from independent reviews to give an extra 12bhp. The mid range is now so much better. Pull away fast at 30 to 40 and the thing takes off. It's feels like DS or sport but with full gear range and no high revs on slowing to sharp corners like DS or sport which can keep the revs up too much. Best £300 I spent makes the car so much more enjoyable.
Hi Tim....... thanks for reading this comment 🙂 . I think BMWs were the best cars in the world .....(as i,m a mechanic with health problems presently) . I own a BMW 1 series petrol 2005 and it past it's MOT after the rusty servo was replaced and i drove it home so gentle ...... and parked it up a few weeks ago (i use a little Fiat) . The plugs were replaced and air filter and the garage were great 🙂 . PROBLEMS AGAIN ALREADY 😞 .......... pulling about 20 degrees to the right and when i gently pull to the left ........ the DTM light pops on and it misfires at 2,000 rpm ... ... Yeh...... i will track the wheels straight ..... and just pull fuses until it,s driveable without ABS or DTR ... ... Ahhhhhhhh !!!!!............. those old 7 series ?????............ best cars in the world then . This one i own ???................. I ummmm sense it's "trouble" ..... like a student designed it ... ... Thanks for reading 🙂.......... (My little Fiat is just "happy") ..........lol
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Hey thanks for replying .. . The big red tyre light is constantly on but always has been and i,ve noticed the o/s/r wheel gets black....... though i polish them 🙂 . The battery was weak and i was a fool in connecting cheap jump leads into the boot from the Fiat ............ then the trouble started (not to crank it) . Yeh i'll sus it out ........ ummmm they are a bit "silly" with their quirks ...lol
You can also use Inpa software to adjust minimum valve lift - the computers generally adjust this for you over time based on how you drive, but it's good to set it up for your own preference - it should be between 0.2 and 0.8 mm. The lower the minimal valve lift, the lower the consumption and the more responsive the engine is. With Inpa you can also adjust transmission adaptations then take the car out on a few different routes and run it through its paces. It will then adjust shift points, throttle response etc. It is a brilliant system when you understand it. As for the video in general, if you just press the sport button it will drop down two gears and allow for an easy overtake. You should also run the throttle body adaptation procedure every few months and the car will become much more responsive. To me personally it looks like your valve lift is set too high and the TBA should be done. I have the 650i coupe and for overtakes I never have to move the lever as it just kicks down two gears or so depending on how much I press the fun pedal. If you want your gearbox to be more responsive, an xhp tune is good and it will actually prolong it's life. It's quite cheap and easy to install. I have the stage 1 as this is after all primarily a GT car and it has to be smooth. Stage 2 and 3 are quite aggressive.
Thank You for advice, it works even without vanos or valvetronic in e39 540i when crusing. I was hoping it would eliminate thinking when start from 0-60, but not. Performence mode not help either...I think I need to replace the knock sensors
It all depends on which engine you have - if it is pre-facelift (M62) then probably the MAF. If it is post-facelift (M62TUB) then that opens up a few more possibilities including the MAF!
Couldn't agree more, so many gormless clueless drivers on the road who are utterly incapable of doing the most basic thing - "keep left unless lane filtering or overtaking".... yet these same people will moan about "speed limits being too slow". I bet these people are also the same people who think putting an indicator on suddenly means they have priority and can just force their way into the lane you're occupying, forcing you to take evasive action.
Switch back and forth both ECO PRO and SPORT is a true gem. The transmission is able to keep speed constant after overtaking or something similar. What I feel is something like an automatic cruise control kicks in.
Im so glad i found this channel! Although I havent needed the advice for anything in particular yet, I know there will be a video here for when i need it! The question i had about this video was for manual applications. I presume the manual version would be to downshift to 4th, and rev match? (if your car has 5 gears, and you want to accelerate into a gap on the motorway)?
Gonna have to try this with my 2010 550I M Sport. I rebuilt the engine and transmission at 160,000 miles. I was getting the transmission malfunctioning a lot before. Got it twice so far since the rebuild. I did not get the adaptations reset yet. Got 2500 miles on rebuild, changed the pan and fluid at 500 miles. Feels stronger than before getting a lot of traction issues. Need new tires 😂
I also have a 2010 bmw 550i, I'm having an issue with the hesitation and the idle bucks when I slightly let off the brake I've replaced the spark plugs and coil pack and got an oil chnage but the problem still persists and the car idles at 500 rpm, do you have an idea what it might be?
Great tip. Have you ever experienced funny drivetrain/gearbox behaviors around 30mph? Seems like it either keeps spinning at 3000RPM or upshifts way too aggressively, making the car super sluggish. Only an issue around 30mph.
Earned a sub from me, I'm gonna try it the next time I go to accelerate cause for some reason lately its just been bogging down accelerating after I've already stopped needing the power as much and its kinda annoying (2007 328i touring, so not expecting too much power but rather just not bogging down)
Yes, at 70 MPH a small press of the throttle should NOT increase the revs immediately. Another symptom is juddering at low throttle levels after coming off a junction and the revs at 1500 - 2000 RPM
Slow drivers in lane 2 or 3 🤦🏼…I thought it was illegal now? Good to see you enjoying the Sport mode, you keep the car in such good order it will handle anything!
Love the videos tim, i do have a questiom for you, i have a 2010 bmw 550i and i habe this hesitation problem along with a bucking idle but the rpm does not bounce about its just a rough idle, any ideas?
Hey Tim! I'm a new owner of a 2007 BMW X3. Drives great but has some issue accelerating at low speeds after a stop. After it hits 20 mph it sails smooth as butter. Can you help me figure what's causing the issue? There are no CEL codes.
Hi Timm - I've an e46 325Ci, what's the difference between left and forwards, and using the kickdown on the pedal? Both seem to downshift and do the same thing - apologies in advance if I'd missed something in the video.
Great video. Two things you missed. One: kickdown; if you press the throttle request pedal to the obvious bottom the car will take seconds to decide to break the TC clutch and downshift but if you push extra hard to "105 %" that will instantly signal the engine you want instant power. It will immediately down shift to the lowest gear available (often this will break traction so current speed and surface conditions matter) Two: and this one's my favorite; say you just need to add 10-15 mph to get to a better position to merge etc, as you are aware pushing the throttle request pedal one inch will do very little at cruising speed. If instead you quickly bump the pedal first to 2" down immediately pulling back to 1" down you'll get the exact effect of "left and up" without having to touch the gear request knob. You'll get TC clutch disengaged and one or two gears shift depending how far you retreat from that 2" bump on the throttle request. You can keep on the pedal the car will stay in the lower gear but as you bring the pedal up it'll naturally shift back to cruising gear and lock the torque converter back up. Try it I'm betting you'd find you use it half as often as the left up method. Caveat; when I had e53 I used the left/up method much more but now with n55 and 8 gears it's more like 70/30 bump throttle vs. up: left. Great explanation on how to tell the car when you want some power on demand and love the video on Valvetronic that's how I found your channel. Subscribed!
Hi Timm. I have e60 3d. My car is stuttering around 1500rpm and it feels like car is going to stall. But when i press accelerator more it goes away. Problem continues not every time as I drive. Any ideas what it could be? I did not get any codes..
hard to explain my problem, but under light acceleration i get this "hesitation" in the induction noise only, sounds like its cutting out but power delivery is still smooth. problem i also have sometimes is the car just jerks when id hit the throttle and i have to pull over then it just shuts off. im replacing the valvetronic actuater but not confident itll fix since i get that weird induction noise even with the actuater unplugged. my idle and coldstarts are better with it unplugged though. already replaced fuel pumps, sensors, coils and plugs. valvetronic codes do come up but only after stalling out and reflashing the car so itll start.
Nice video. I have a 2003 325xi and having the opposite problem. After I floor it, the car keeps accelerating for another second or so... I've found another post on the web with the same issue but couldn't find out the cause. Wonder if you can help?
Every now and again I see the same behavior, it doesn't happen all the time, usually after I have pushed the pedal quickly down and then decided I didn't need the power. I've always thought that this is a weakness of the software control of engine power - so many servo's to move back in a short time.
True that but only on a 500+hp not a 330-340hp there is alot of weight on the six series, however on a wet road not advisable to punch it, especially if you have traction control off.
Hey Tim ‘ great videos man ‘ I think my 650i has a shifting problem ‘ sometimes when is cold it lags to shift ‘ mostly when is cold ‘ when Is hot and running it shift really smooth, I notice that is does it when I’m goin uphill as well, what do you think it could be cuz I don’t have a code or nothing 🤷🏻♂️ ! I would appreciate your help 😊
Enjoy your videos and was hoping the one about resetting the upper and lower limits on the window might be an easy solution to my problem, but no go 😢 I have a 2004 BMW 645ci convertible. The rear passenger quarter window drops when the top is opened, but does not come back to full up, only about 3/4, when the top raised to the closed position. If the top is in the closed position the window goes down but only comes up to about 3/4 position. In other words, no problem lowering the window at anytime, but it only comes up to the 3/4 position. In both cases, a very slight pull on the top of the window while raising it draws it past the 3/4 position and it finishes rises nicely on its own to full up. Any suggestions, or is it the dreaded regulator replacement issue? Thank you!
I know exactly what you mean - I've driven automatic gearboxes all my life - it just seemed strange to change gear without letting the throttle off. But, the paddles are just the same as the shifter - you can change gear at full power and it will not ley you change to a dangerous gear
Hi Timm, Can you tell the car to get ready just by pushing the "Sport button" at the shifter instead of doing all that? Just wondering! My BMWs don't have that button as yours does!
I have a 08' 550i msport with a N62TU engine . It takes off best when in 2nd / 3rd, but if I were at a red light and floor it, it takes a second as you mentioned ... Even in sport mode . I believe it's because I lose traction ?
Timm its nice to see your car back on the road after the last videos with the problem of the Oil leak from the Filter Housing. Nice to see you crusing along the road and hit the Sport mode :D Nice video with good infos as well again! love your videos! Good to hear that the e31 is making Progress in the background! Keep up the good work Mate! Greetings from Germany!
I have had the eml light come on today, I have had no issues with engine over the past year after buying car it has ran just fine. Today it is not happy, it feels like it is not getting fuel? Engine is surging when gas pedal is down halfway in neutral it sputters a little rpms go up then down not moving my foot on gas pedal at all any suggestions please
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation engine running rough idle it's the idle air control valve 👍 I didn't even have to replace it I took it off sprayed brake cleaner and WD-40 inside I watched the video of somebody else cleaning it until the mechanism inside moves freely put it back on and it works fine.
I have 2008 650i. When the engine is cold me car accelerates fast from a stop. But when the engine warms up and I floor the gas from a stop there is very little power of acceleration until it’s hit 2000 rpm’s. What could this be. I have no check engine lights or anything.
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation I tried the down shift on the motorway today for passing 2 slower vehicles…..Wow, worked like a charm! No launch mode engaged, however, you don’t need it at higher speeds! The car purred like a happy cat!
what causes the big hesitation at 1,600 rpm - 2000 rpm in second gear, is that also the torque converter? mostly happens when cold temps, once the car is heated up its not as noticeable
Left and down on my E38. All of this adaptive transmission stuff is a waste of time, in my opinion, the problem is on a powerful car you want to feed the power in progressively as you pull out to overtake. Applying full power while still behind the thing you are going to overtake is a very bad idea with a powerful car...
I've found the best way to solve this is a remap I have E39 e60e53 all did this all have been remapped and it was not happening after the remap on all cars
Tim, you are gold! I was hesitant to purchase the 650i due to its age and common problems (which are ludicrously expensive). But your guidance has given me the confidence and knowledge to know the issues to look out for and how to fix. Cheers buddy.
Time for me to search for a mechanic to tag along, before I purchase the car 🙂
Glad I could help!
Thank-you for this. I always wondered why my E46 330ci was reluctant to initially accelerate hard in Drive and seemed quite happy just cruising along. Then I realised that Sport mode and changing down wakes the car up, and it knows you mean business!
Good man!
Really appreaciate these videos timm, grew up in my dads 645 when I was 2 or 3 and after selling the old gal and buying a newer 650 in 2010, it passed down to me when i went to uni last year and i hope to make it last forever (no worry she's not being abused)
Slow drivers in the fast lane? Must be from the USA. Everyone does that here. And if you pass via slow lane, they get road rage from the ego bruising.
Fast lane? That only exists in clown world. In the real world it’s an overtaking lane 👍
same as australians
Timm, I see that the under hood insulation on your car looks a bit wonky like mine did. I have a 2005 645CI Cabriolet w/ 75K. I looked into replacing the insulation and found it quite costly especially when there was nothing really wrong with the insulation that I had other than the "tabs" no longer fit within the slots in the hood. I trimmed the tabs and cleaned it all very well and then used a silicone adhesive to re-install it. I am no longer embarrassed to open the hood. It looks so much better. I was thinking that as nice as your car is that this would be a simple solution and your subscribers may enjoy this one afternoon low cost upgrade.
Please keep it up, I cannot tell you how much I appreciate all of your videos. Many thanks from the U.S.!
Jon Warren
I have been doing this since i got my 550i v8, but i also installed a Sprint Booster, which kinda does the same thing, but on Comfort mode (D), i only use Left Up>Up when i need for it aggressive maneuvers😂. Thanks, Tim, for quality content as usual.
That's good info!
Brilliant! I have a manual, so other techniques to make the car understand you mean business, but same concept. You need to communicate with the car to get the car to talk to you and give you the best that it has. This is the antithesis of the appliance/car mentality that is popular these days. 😊
Very true!
1000% this. Been doing it for years.. As Timm says, it becomes a second nature movement, and it also lets passengers in your car know, that they should brace themselves. 😂 Throwing it into sport mode also puts the pedal into a more direct mode mode with the throttle, or some some would say more sensitive. Experience with an e53 4.8is and e39 M5 (manual). The e38 740 doesn’t have steptronic, so I can only drop it down a gear. I wasn’t aware of the why behind the torque converter lockup, I only knew it worked. 😅
You can use the D432 boxes in manual mode, I used to do that in my E32. Start off in 2 and sports mode selected (1st gear), switch sports mode off (2nd) then you have 3 (3rd), 4 (4th) and back into D for 5th. It takes a bit of getting used to but is great fun
I think the D432 and even the 6HP start off in 2nd gear by default, unless you put them into sport mode. With the D432, dropping it into 4 will cause it to select 1st from a stop.
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation I just got a 2004 330ci I use manual mode quite a bit but it always makes my left foot twitch instinctively is looking for a clutch pedal because I am used to my 5 speed Subaru. Driving it back from delivery I almost blew a stop sign at a rest stop in the dark and desperately tried to mash a nonexistent clutch pedal with my left foot with my right on the brake then had a 2 second panic attack thinking I stalled the car. In auto mode im fine but there is some kind of weird grey zone for my brain having it in the manual mode. I even do things like accidentally downshifting it from 4th to 3rd instead of going to 5th because my brain knows 5th gear is a forward push from 4th gear on a manual car.
Thanks Tim. Another great vid. I drive my 630i like this to get the best out of it, but mine has a different intermittent hesitation where the engine literally does not fire on any cylinders for a second or so if I press the accelerator anything like quickly. If I lift off before the revs have died off completely and reapply smoothly, no issues. If I don't lift off, the engine will die completely or backfire through the inlet manifold. It only happens once every blue moon (every 3 or 4 weeks) when driving, and using the the method in this video certainly reduces the occurrence. I can force it to happen when not driving by just pressing the accelerator quickly to the floor from idle (once the engine is warmed up). It won't happen if the engine is cold and still on fast idle. I don't know if you remember the accelerator pump on an old school carb? If this pump wasn't squirting fuel down the throat of the carb during fast throttle opening, you would get exactly the same symptom as I'm seeing. No faults ever showing in the ECU. I' plan to remove and check the DISA valves and the VANOS solenoids first as they are easy to do, but both of these should be throwing codes if not working...? Any ideas..?
N52 here also. Absolutely identical situation. Changed plugs, coils etc and no change. Did the pcv recently. No change. Mine doesn't actually misfire but it essentially freezes. Engine holds in a near idle like rev and it's almost as if time has stopped, desire foot being near flat on the throttle. Lift off and try again with a less aggressive press of the throttle and then it's fine. If you're pulling out onto a fast Road it's a potential hazard. Let me know if you resolve it!
When it is safe to do so, switch off the DTC (5-second press) so that the ASC+T symbol is shown - let me know if this changes anything
When it is safe to do so, switch off the DTC (5-second press) so that the ASC+T symbol is shown - let me know if this changes anything
Hi Tim, it still happens when the DTC is off... i'm tempted to say it's slightly better, but that may be psychological. It's certainly still there though..
I own a 2005 645ci with right at 75k miles. I just a few days ago drove it “spiritedly” for about 100 miles on a nice country road and the car performed very well and as expected. Last night I decided to take my wife for gelato and less than a mile down the road pulling out of my neighborhood the car suddenly shut down and stopped with no warning. A big red light came on that I have never seen before. It would not restart for a couple of minutes but finally did. I was able to get the car home but just as I was pulling in the driveway I noticed reduced engine power came on. Once parked I turned it off and restarted it and everything went back to normal. I do keep the car on a batty tender so the voltage was good. What would possibly have caused this very worrisome episode?
Thank you for all of the driveway hints and repairs. I recently was able to replace my cabin filters and flush the under hood drains with your help. Keep it up all of this is very much appreciated!
do you have a code scanner? if not just go to the car parts shop or the mechanic and tell them to scan it and give you the codes that will tell you exactly what it is but without those codes it’s impossible to tell it’s just a guessing game
My pleasure! Although your battery is well charged it may have a failing cell - and replacing is the cheapest way forward
@@EpicGamerrrLolz I am a GM dealer and had the scanner on the car the next day. No codes were present.
Lymp mode check your battery
Just brilliant! Gotta try this now also after I had changed spark plugs, stuck DISA valves, all the possible oils and liquids; and cleaned vanos solenoids and valves. 😀 (tbh all those things needed to be changed anyway long time ago also, but previous owner apparently didn't bother... so not sad about changing them. got rid of rough idle and horrible fuel consumption, but the hesitation was still there...)
It's great fun that's for sure!
Tim, you taught me something really significant today. A thousand thanks.
Always my pleasure!
Iv always thought that of my e63 but assumed that it was something to do with a sensor or just old age. So now I can stop worrying about it . Kinda all makes sense now that it's been explained. And this bit of advice costs me nothing. Which is unusual for my old car 😀👍Thanks again Timm .
Glad it stopped you worrying!
I had this same thing just shift into sport it fixes it
Good chat, useful every day, and 100% accurate for me. Some of this is new analysis to me and greatly improves performance on demand in my 328i. Some of this gives the words needed to explain that certain performance lag I have long observed and have been trying to overcome. How the doodad mechanically works with the flux capacitor is new to me. The power lag when flooring the gas pedal of my 328i has always been disappointing because flooring it does not instantly produce speed and and power wanted in exchange for max use of fuel. One second is too long to wait to get up and go. Sport Mode alone is enough performance for most situations but laying the shift on top of Sport Mode gives the instant muscle that is sometimes needed. Improving traffic flow for others is half the fun. This maneuver makes driving better for me and drivers near me who want to pass, change lanes, or are unsighted of the road and traffic ahead.
Glad you like the video. Sport mode on the 650i is hateful, too jerky and the suspension hardens up along with the steering!
Awesome Timm. It's all music to me. I put my 97 540i into sport mode (left) and away she goes. If I was really crawling along behind a truck I'd go left and down for third. You just add detail to the stuff I instinctively know and worked out and that's why I appreciate your videos so much. Didn't know about the torque converter stuff.
Thanks Bernard, the lock-up on the 650i is much more severe, it does it on 3rd - 6th gear!
Personally the best way to get rid of the hesitation or drop down as you accelerate hard is to fit an induction kit, the issue is due to air flow as the normal intake restricts it when flooring it too much There is only one I could find for the 650i I imported from America. Yes it £300 but the difference is amazing. It is proven from independent reviews to give an extra 12bhp. The mid range is now so much better. Pull away fast at 30 to 40 and the thing takes off. It's feels like DS or sport but with full gear range and no high revs on slowing to sharp corners like DS or sport which can keep the revs up too much. Best £300 I spent makes the car so much more enjoyable.
Thanks for the info!
Glad to see the 650i back on the road! looking forward to more posts
I'm glad it didn't blow, he hasn't had good luck lately with his car like his 8 series. Hopefully that gets better though
Thanks - all well so far!
Brilliant thanks, just got a 645ci and this is great advice explained in an easy to understand way!
Glad it helped!
Hi Tim....... thanks for reading this comment 🙂
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I think BMWs were the best cars in the world .....(as i,m a mechanic with health problems presently)
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I own a BMW 1 series petrol 2005 and it past it's MOT after the rusty servo was replaced and i drove it home so gentle ...... and parked it up a few weeks ago (i use a little Fiat)
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The plugs were replaced and air filter and the garage were great 🙂
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PROBLEMS AGAIN ALREADY 😞 .......... pulling about 20 degrees to the right and when i gently pull to the left ........ the DTM light pops on and it misfires at 2,000 rpm
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Yeh...... i will track the wheels straight ..... and just pull fuses until it,s driveable without ABS or DTR
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Ahhhhhhhh !!!!!............. those old 7 series ?????............ best cars in the world then
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This one i own ???................. I ummmm sense it's "trouble" ..... like a student designed it
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Thanks for reading 🙂.......... (My little Fiat is just "happy") ..........lol
We all need happy cars that's for sure! Yes, tracking first - and then brake callipers....
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Hey thanks for replying ..
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The big red tyre light is constantly on but always has been and i,ve noticed the o/s/r wheel gets black....... though i polish them 🙂
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The battery was weak and i was a fool in connecting cheap jump leads into the boot from the Fiat ............ then the trouble started (not to crank it)
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Yeh i'll sus it out ........ ummmm they are a bit "silly" with their quirks ...lol
You can also use Inpa software to adjust minimum valve lift - the computers generally adjust this for you over time based on how you drive, but it's good to set it up for your own preference - it should be between 0.2 and 0.8 mm. The lower the minimal valve lift, the lower the consumption and the more responsive the engine is. With Inpa you can also adjust transmission adaptations then take the car out on a few different routes and run it through its paces. It will then adjust shift points, throttle response etc. It is a brilliant system when you understand it.
As for the video in general, if you just press the sport button it will drop down two gears and allow for an easy overtake.
You should also run the throttle body adaptation procedure every few months and the car will become much more responsive.
To me personally it looks like your valve lift is set too high and the TBA should be done. I have the 650i coupe and for overtakes I never have to move the lever as it just kicks down two gears or so depending on how much I press the fun pedal.
If you want your gearbox to be more responsive, an xhp tune is good and it will actually prolong it's life. It's quite cheap and easy to install. I have the stage 1 as this is after all primarily a GT car and it has to be smooth. Stage 2 and 3 are quite aggressive.
My valve lift at idle is 3mm - that's probably small enough!
Yep 0.2 to 0.3 is fine :)
Thank You for advice, it works even without vanos or valvetronic in e39 540i when crusing. I was hoping it would eliminate thinking when start from 0-60, but not. Performence mode not help either...I think I need to replace the knock sensors
I'm having the same problem at the redlights...
Do you think it is actually the knock sensors?
It all depends on which engine you have - if it is pre-facelift (M62) then probably the MAF. If it is post-facelift (M62TUB) then that opens up a few more possibilities including the MAF!
No, knock sensors are slow to act - try E0 high octane fuel
M62 (pre-facelift) -97 540iAT. MAF units aren't cheap.
Couldn't agree more, so many gormless clueless drivers on the road who are utterly incapable of doing the most basic thing - "keep left unless lane filtering or overtaking".... yet these same people will moan about "speed limits being too slow". I bet these people are also the same people who think putting an indicator on suddenly means they have priority and can just force their way into the lane you're occupying, forcing you to take evasive action.
Don't get me started - it gets worse every day!
Switch back and forth both ECO PRO and SPORT is a true gem. The transmission is able to keep speed constant after overtaking or something similar.
What I feel is something like an automatic cruise control kicks in.
Yes, it does seem to hold speed really well!
Left up or Left up and up, thanks Tim will try that out.. appreciate your comments and insight into the quirks of the BMW.
My pleasure John!
Hello. Thank you for all great videos - very helpful. What’s the difference between putting the gear shifter to left and using SPORT button?
It's quicker to whack the shifter than it is to find the sports button!
Hi Timm.. great content as always. What’s your thoughts/opinions on a xhp flash on the gearbox? It seems to be a popular mod to do on these cars.
Worth a go - but I'm happy selecting gears manually, I get more control!
never knew about this, going to try it in the 840 when i finally get it back after some long awaited work
Make sure to reverse the Steptronic first!
sorry timm for my ignorance but how do i go about doing that ?@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation
A very good explanation - much appreciated - thank you !
You are welcome!
Im so glad i found this channel! Although I havent needed the advice for anything in particular yet, I know there will be a video here for when i need it!
The question i had about this video was for manual applications. I presume the manual version would be to downshift to 4th, and rev match? (if your car has 5 gears, and you want to accelerate into a gap on the motorway)?
Welcome! With a manual you have little to worry about
Gonna have to try this with my 2010 550I M Sport. I rebuilt the engine and transmission at 160,000 miles. I was getting the transmission malfunctioning a lot before. Got it twice so far since the rebuild. I did not get the adaptations reset yet. Got 2500 miles on rebuild, changed the pan and fluid at 500 miles. Feels stronger than before getting a lot of traction issues. Need new tires 😂
Yes, get the adaptations reset first - it made a big difference on my 650i
I also have a 2010 bmw 550i, I'm having an issue with the hesitation and the idle bucks when I slightly let off the brake I've replaced the spark plugs and coil pack and got an oil chnage but the problem still persists and the car idles at 500 rpm, do you have an idea what it might be?
Great tip. Have you ever experienced funny drivetrain/gearbox behaviors around 30mph? Seems like it either keeps spinning at 3000RPM or upshifts way too aggressively, making the car super sluggish. Only an issue around 30mph.
Yes I have, but all OK again after the Mechatronics bridge seals were replaced
Good bit of rehab there thanks. I'm glad you got the 650 back too.
Thanks, it's getting a lot of use while the E31 sits it out!
Clean the MAF sensor and replace the two VANOS solenoids, should fix most troubles
Earned a sub from me, I'm gonna try it the next time I go to accelerate cause for some reason lately its just been bogging down accelerating after I've already stopped needing the power as much and its kinda annoying (2007 328i touring, so not expecting too much power but rather just not bogging down)
Thanks!
The nicest BMW driver on the roads 😄
You should hear what I say off camera!
Thanks Tim. Any thoughts on noticeable symptoms of a failing torque converter lock up clutch?
Yes, at 70 MPH a small press of the throttle should NOT increase the revs immediately. Another symptom is juddering at low throttle levels after coming off a junction and the revs at 1500 - 2000 RPM
In my experience, hesitation and poor low-end torque can at times be attributed to failed knock sensors. Now that's a fun replacement.
Slow drivers in lane 2 or 3 🤦🏼…I thought it was illegal now? Good to see you enjoying the Sport mode, you keep the car in such good order it will handle anything!
They are a real menace, now everyone has an SUV they just stay there all day
Love the videos tim, i do have a questiom for you, i have a 2010 bmw 550i and i habe this hesitation problem along with a bucking idle but the rpm does not bounce about its just a rough idle, any ideas?
See my video's on INPA that's the best place to start
❤😂 I want to try this but it's raining 🌧 😊 TY for sharing 💖
Hey Tim! I'm a new owner of a 2007 BMW X3. Drives great but has some issue accelerating at low speeds after a stop. After it hits 20 mph it sails smooth as butter.
Can you help me figure what's causing the issue? There are no CEL codes.
As I always say, you need diagnostics, INPA being the preferred software
Hi Timm - I've an e46 325Ci, what's the difference between left and forwards, and using the kickdown on the pedal?
Both seem to downshift and do the same thing - apologies in advance if I'd missed something in the video.
I hate kick-down it just makes the engine scream! Much prefer using the Steptronic
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation may I ask what the difference is?
Don't they both just shift down a gear?
Great video. Two things you missed.
One: kickdown; if you press the throttle request pedal to the obvious bottom the car will take seconds to decide to break the TC clutch and downshift but if you push extra hard to "105 %" that will instantly signal the engine you want instant power. It will immediately down shift to the lowest gear available (often this will break traction so current speed and surface conditions matter)
Two: and this one's my favorite; say you just need to add 10-15 mph to get to a better position to merge etc, as you are aware pushing the throttle request pedal one inch will do very little at cruising speed. If instead you quickly bump the pedal first to 2" down immediately pulling back to 1" down you'll get the exact effect of "left and up" without having to touch the gear request knob.
You'll get TC clutch disengaged and one or two gears shift depending how far you retreat from that 2" bump on the throttle request.
You can keep on the pedal the car will stay in the lower gear but as you bring the pedal up it'll naturally shift back to cruising gear and lock the torque converter back up.
Try it I'm betting you'd find you use it half as often as the left up method.
Caveat; when I had e53 I used the left/up method much more but now with n55 and 8 gears it's more like 70/30 bump throttle vs. up: left.
Great explanation on how to tell the car when you want some power on demand and love the video on Valvetronic that's how I found your channel.
Subscribed!
Thanks Andrew, a lot of good tips there
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformationlikewise!
Hi Timm. I have e60 3d. My car is stuttering around 1500rpm and it feels like car is going to stall. But when i press accelerator more it goes away. Problem continues not every time as I drive. Any ideas what it could be? I did not get any codes..
Which model is it - 630D?
hard to explain my problem, but under light acceleration i get this "hesitation" in the induction noise only, sounds like its cutting out but power delivery is still smooth. problem i also have sometimes is the car just jerks when id hit the throttle and i have to pull over then it just shuts off. im replacing the valvetronic actuater but not confident itll fix since i get that weird induction noise even with the actuater unplugged. my idle and coldstarts are better with it unplugged though. already replaced fuel pumps, sensors, coils and plugs. valvetronic codes do come up but only after stalling out and reflashing the car so itll start.
You must have an error code for stalling at the very least - so diagnostics is the way forward
Nice video. I have a 2003 325xi and having the opposite problem. After I floor it, the car keeps accelerating for another second or so... I've found another post on the web with the same issue but couldn't find out the cause. Wonder if you can help?
Every now and again I see the same behavior, it doesn't happen all the time, usually after I have pushed the pedal quickly down and then decided I didn't need the power. I've always thought that this is a weakness of the software control of engine power - so many servo's to move back in a short time.
After putting the “shift” left up, do I still gotta be shifting for the car? or does it automatically?👏🏻
You have to do it manually - but, it will change gear if the revs get too high
😂😂😂😂😂brilliant loving the sense of humour
Thanks!
Got an e65 750, never knew e63 gear stick was in normal place. Ours is on a stalk next to steering wheel.
Surely not, what's it doing there!
Xhp also helps (transmission software)
Thanks for the info!
Can't wait to try this, always helpful
Hope you enjoy!
True that but only on a 500+hp not a 330-340hp there is alot of weight on the six series, however on a wet road not advisable to punch it, especially if you have traction control off.
Not a great combination!
Done 90mph on a wet road with no traction felt like I was driving in a f1
Hey Tim ‘ great videos man ‘ I think my 650i has a shifting problem ‘ sometimes when is cold it lags to shift ‘ mostly when is cold ‘ when Is hot and running it shift really smooth, I notice that is does it when I’m goin uphill as well, what do you think it could be cuz I don’t have a code or nothing 🤷🏻♂️ ! I would appreciate your help 😊
Enjoy your videos and was hoping the one about resetting the upper and lower limits on the window might be an easy solution to my problem, but no go 😢
I have a 2004 BMW 645ci convertible. The rear passenger quarter window drops when the top is opened, but does not come back to full up, only about 3/4, when the top raised to the closed position. If the top is in the closed position the window goes down but only comes up to about 3/4 position. In other words, no problem lowering the window at anytime, but it only comes up to the 3/4 position. In both cases, a very slight pull on the top of the window while raising it draws it past the 3/4 position and it finishes rises nicely on its own to full up.
Any suggestions, or is it the dreaded regulator replacement issue?
Thank you!
Yes, it's the dreaded regulator problem - you could try some white grease on the mechanism first though
Does switching it to DS mode and back do any damage ? I feel like I shouldn't do it very often, although it feels needed when I need the power.
No, you can pop it backwards and forwards as much as you like!
If you maintain it you can drive it as hard as you want and not worry
I’m new to automatics,no idea how to use the paddles.Do I take my foot off the accelerator to change gears?
I know exactly what you mean - I've driven automatic gearboxes all my life - it just seemed strange to change gear without letting the throttle off. But, the paddles are just the same as the shifter - you can change gear at full power and it will not ley you change to a dangerous gear
Hi Timm,
Can you tell the car to get ready just by pushing the "Sport button" at the shifter instead of doing all that? Just wondering! My BMWs don't have that button as yours does!
Here's why: ruclips.net/video/DO3UWxJ5T1E/видео.html
I think this counts for other brands as well.
Yes, it does!
I have a 08' 550i msport with a N62TU engine . It takes off best when in 2nd / 3rd, but if I were at a red light and floor it, it takes a second as you mentioned ... Even in sport mode . I believe it's because I lose traction ?
Look on your cluster, you'll see the traction light flicker if you're losing traction.
If knock sensors are removed, what exactly happens?!!
It will run at the most retarded timing it can - not much power!
Just discovered your channel. I thought you were the great David Ike at first glance 😊
Welcome aboard!
Okay I have a 2024 x 4 in package Bmw so how would I fix mine cuz I'm having lag in the pedal as well
I have never driven that car - but if you have Steptronic then apply that in the same way as shown here
Lol. That’s what I do when I’m in the expressway. It works Al the time. You’ll be able to feel the horses kick again.
Good man!
Timm its nice to see your car back on the road after the last videos with the problem of the Oil leak from the Filter Housing. Nice to see you crusing along the road and hit the Sport mode :D Nice video with good infos as well again! love your videos! Good to hear that the e31 is making Progress in the background! Keep up the good work Mate!
Greetings from Germany!
Great to hear from you, and thanks for the encouragement!
Nice 1 Tim now i know 1 more to ad to my problems i think it was my worn valve guide
Try some Wynns Stop Leak - might keep you going for a while as they do swell up the valve-stem seals
I drive my E91 330 with the trans in Sport mode almost 100% of the time. Much better throttle response and power
That's the way to do it!
I have had the eml light come on today, I have had no issues with engine over the past year after buying car it has ran just fine. Today it is not happy, it feels like it is not getting fuel? Engine is surging when gas pedal is down halfway in neutral it sputters a little rpms go up then down not moving my foot on gas pedal at all any suggestions please
I take it that you have an 850ci?
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation engine running rough idle it's the idle air control valve 👍 I didn't even have to replace it I took it off sprayed brake cleaner and WD-40 inside I watched the video of somebody else cleaning it until the mechanism inside moves freely put it back on and it works fine.
Great video, Thank you
My pleasure!
I have 2008 650i. When the engine is cold me car accelerates fast from a stop. But when the engine warms up and I floor the gas from a stop there is very little power of acceleration until it’s hit 2000 rpm’s. What could this be. I have no check engine lights or anything.
MAF gives behaviour like that - only buy OEM BMW
Really my car on has 65k miles.
Hi there I have an E92 M3 manual. The same thing happens, juddery movement on low gear pull away. Will this fix work on it?
No, that sounds like a clutch problem....
What if you’re at 60mph downshift and it sputters before acceleration? What’s the issue ?
Do you get spluttering any other time?
Hi Timm I have an e63 645. Cold morning today had a rough idle / seemed to be misfiring and “increased emissions” on the screen. Any ideas?
Replace the PCV's. they are often a source of unmetered air
Great video as always.
Thanks again!
Very cool, does launch mode make a difference when you do this maneuver? Love the tips!
I haven't tried it, this is for when you are leisurely cruising and you need immediate power!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation I tried the down shift on the motorway today for passing 2 slower vehicles…..Wow, worked like a charm! No launch mode engaged, however, you don’t need it at higher speeds! The car purred like a happy cat!
what causes the big hesitation at 1,600 rpm - 2000 rpm in second gear, is that also the torque converter? mostly happens when cold temps, once the car is heated up its not as noticeable
My girlfriends 2010 535i just started doing that with the recent colder weather… no issues later once it’s warmed up…
Have you done the transmission bridge seals?
When I am coming to a stop the car jerks into first gear. I have a 2005 645ci
Change the seals on the gearbox between the mechatronix and the body - called bridge seals, a common problem!
Brilliant thank you.
My pleasure!
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Very good. 👍🏾🎼🎩.
Thanks!
I keep my '20 M5 competition in sport plus all the time. I couldn't imagine driving it in any other setting.
Sport on the 650i is awful - and I'm not the only one complaining!
Nice one
Thank you
My pleasure!
Im planning to buy a 630i e63 do you think its worth it?
They are excellent cars, all the looks of the 650i with twice the economy!
2009 650i can I use the paddle shifter to get the same power response?
I do. Sport mode and downshift for power when you need it.
Yes, that's the way to do it!
How do you do this on a m340 i 2020 ??
Ditch finder tyres won't help either in wet weather.
I don't think he has those.
@@onkelmicke9670
Wasn’t on about Tim’s it’s other drivers 👍
I know you aren't a fan of sport mode ( I am I have a 6spd manual) why not just press the sport button and mash the foot to the floor?
He made a video about 2 years ago explaining exactly this
I hate Sports Mode - it just messes everything up and is not much fun when cruising! ruclips.net/video/DO3UWxJ5T1E/видео.html
Left and down on my E38. All of this adaptive transmission stuff is a waste of time, in my opinion, the problem is on a powerful car you want to feed the power in progressively as you pull out to overtake. Applying full power while still behind the thing you are going to overtake is a very bad idea with a powerful car...
Good fun though!
are you wearing cycling shorts 007?
I am correctly attired!
Thanks
Thanks for the super thanks, it is very kind of you!
YOU ARE AWSOME thanks for the information hah mustang masculinity that's a good one ;)
Glad you liked it!!
Next episode.... "How to fix your damaged hood/bonnet insulator hanging down"😁
The blooming thing has shrunk!
Love the dis oof the slow mustang 😂
I can't stop myself!
I've found the best way to solve this is a remap I have E39 e60e53 all did this all have been remapped and it was not happening after the remap on all cars
Yes, that's one way to do it!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation thanks for confirming that
I almost thought you're in South Africa.
thank yo
My pleasure!
I'm stays at 20miles per hr before it speeds up.
What does that mean ?
You are only downshifting. Annoying still. U have to remap your ECU. 😊
Too EZ fixed your sparkplug gap
remove the carpet from the pedal 🤣🤣
There’s no way that can be good on an old automatic transmission
My 840ci has almost 200,000 miles on it and it hasn't complained yet!