First of all thank you for answering to every comment! I got some issues with Nissan Primera P11. Its SR20De engine. When the engine is cold and I accelerate a little on idle, the RPM stays for a few seconds by itself. Changed sparks, cables, distributor cap, cleaned MAF and even changed the knock sensor. It is very odd, the RPM just stays on for a few seconds then it drops
@Adam B it has nothing to do with modern but rather the engineering, throttle positioning does not substitute a ICV they perform different functions, the idle is either controlled by the ECU or a vacuum valve. Maybe you need to change the positioning sensor both at your pedal and at your throttle body if you have a multimeter you can test them to ensure they are still goog. throttle bodies rarely go bad
Another good thing to look at is if there is oil in the spark plugs or coils. If there is, replace the valve cover gasket. That’s what I’m doing to hopefully fix my issue. If that doesn’t fully fix it I’ll check the sensors too. I already replaced the spark plugs.
@@paulsultana8683 if you are lucky a failing PCV valve or running very rich, common causes are Damaged spark plug tubes, worn piston rings or damaged valve seals what other symptoms do you have?
Hello, really enjoyed your video and could use your help. My Honda Accord hesitates but only at high rpm (~7200) or at high speed (5th gear, 130 mph). Cleaned the throttle body and sensors about 10k miles ago. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance
Looks like you reply to every comment on here so I'll give it a shot. I have a 2013 BMW 528i xdrive that hesitates when accelerating. The problem did very minorly begin after changing out the spark plugs and coil packs. 3 months after changing those (spark plugs and coil packs) I installed an exhaust cutout that bypassed the resonator and muffler. This when I really started to notice the issue, although it might have just been a coincidence. Since then, I have switched the coil packs back to the original ones with no improvement and I have gone through 2 tanks of fuel injector cleaner with no improvement. I noticed my vacuum line had some oil in it from the vacuum pump sucking up engine oil so I am replacing the vacuum pump next. I think the vacuum line operates the wastegate and maybe that is affecting my car? If the vacuum pump doesn't work, I will do the spark plugs again. Maybe I bought bad spark plugs. Permanent engine code cylinder 1 misfire P0301 and stored code engine too lean P0171
switch the cylinder one coil with the coil from cylinder 3 and see if you get a p0303 error, do not worry about the lean code, for now, it is more likely to have a bad coil than a bad spark plug unless you bought the wrong temperature range plugs, what grade of gasoline are you using? you can also try to add some octane booster and see if it makes a difference, I have an M5 and love it!
Too lean means not enough fuel pressure. Try changing your fuel filter first and if that doesn't work check the fuel regulator. And lastly check the fuel pump. My 2015 just had a fuel pump slowly fail so a 2013 is right on schedule to need a replacement fuel pump.
I have a 2001 Toyota Sequoia SR5 and it buckles if I just give it gas from a stopped position, also if I’m stopped and I put it in drive and just let my truck walk it bogs, but goes away when I give it gas. If there’s any input you can give me I’d gladly appreciate it.
Yes. I like watching automotive articles like this one. Actually I have subscribed to your channel. I'm Greg Santos, watching here in Manila, Philippines 🇵🇭
I'm having issues with my 2011 Chevy Cruze ecotec. No codes pop up except when I'm accelerating at a higher speed or going up hills. I've replaced throttle body and all of spark plugs and cleaned MAF and also replaced air filter. I have also replaced the PCV valve and the purge valve. When the air conditioner is on, it makes symptoms worse. If I'm at a red light and have a/c on, it will either go very slow or almost die once I start to accelerate. I'm too cheap to go take it to someone to get diagnosed I don't want to spend $150 just to find out it's some $10 part. I can't figure out what to do next.
I actually felt like my AC had something to do with my cars hesitation. Replacing spark plugs will be my next step. I did try cleaning the MAFS but it did nothing, then I replaced the MAFS and that helped a little. I am also going to change the filter and see if that helps. Hopefully changing the spark plugs will do the trick! Thank you.
My throttle body is stacked open. Mass airflow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - range/performance problem Mass Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem, Intake air flap control actuator position sensor - circuit high, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input, Mass airflow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - range/performance problem. Can you think those faults can cause a fault to my throttle body to be stuck open? Thank you very much for this video. It's always something to learn. Much appreciated. I will follow any advice. First I will start with this one.
Ok, hopefully, u answer because im really trying not to give up on my car, it idles pretty good and starts right up but my problem is whem i try to accelerate it struggles to move/run ... I've changed fuel pump, maf ,pedal sensor cleaned throttle idk what else to do
Oh oh oh... I was going to use brake disc cleaner on the maf sensor... thank you for pointing out the right stuff to use. I have a C220 cdi, 16 years old with 109k miles. I've had it 5 years and acceleration from start is very slow untill the turbo comes in. There are no fault codes for the maf but I'm sure a good clean / maintainance could maybe fix the acceleration issue. It is too lazy for a 2.2 engine, there must be something wrong. If this is still the original maf sensor, I'm thinking it might still work but after all these years never cleaned, maybe, maybe it is not reading correct values.
Lol , good you didn’t 😂. I used throttle body cleaner which is much closer to MAF cleaner but the car stopped working. But I had a genuine idea and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol. It takes away the grease and dries as fast as the MAF cleaner. Emergency back up
Update.... holy cow... the difference is night and day. The MAF sensor was so dirty, never been cleaned for sure. After the clean I have acceleration like mad, finaly after years of driving it as it was.
I guess I’m going to add a comment in hopes to get a reply. I’m a single full time mom & just bought a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe sport mode from a reputable dealership. A few hours ago I turned on to the on-ramp to merge on to the interstate. When I hit the gas it didn’t accelerate at all like it normally does or should. Instead the rpm’s shot up way higher than they normally do & the car was hardly accelerating. I’m talking like 3 mph per 15 seconds. I was pretty low on gas so I decided to get off the highway & see if that helped the issue. It seemed fine, until I pulled out of the parking lot. Then the problem continued again. I live in the mountains & I had to go up a maybe 1/4 mile long steep mountain. I could hardly go past 40-50 mph. I stopped & opened the hood & let the car cool down because right before this all started I had been parked in a hot parking lot for several hours & it was 90 Fahrenheit outside. Since this has started, I’ve noticed I cannot accelerate up hills past 40, maybe 50 tops if I am lucky. It seems to be somewhat fine until I have to go over 30-40. It seems like the rpm’s are normal ish until I get to that speed as well. I literally don’t know what to do. I just want to cry honestly. I just bought this car 3 weeks ago. Spent 15k on it from the ford dealership. From everything I’ve read about this problem online from others personal stories, it seems like this is a common problem for Hyundais with no fix.
@@ProfessorDIY I’m assuming I would hear that sound with the car on, correct? When I opened the hood I had the car off. So I can check it with the car on & see!
@@ProfessorDIY I just opened the hood, with the car on. I did not hear a suction sound that was noticeable to my amateur ears. What I did notice was extreme heat that I feel like I shouldn’t be there. Especially after the car was just off for 15 minutes. It almost seemed like the hot air was blowing from somewhere but I couldn’t quite figure out from where.
@@ProfessorDIY also, when I have the acceleration problem (going up hills) (getting up past 40), the car sounds like a lawn mower. Kinda like a deep mmmmmmm sound
Hey Sir I have a 95 Nissan hardbody truck 4 cylinder 2 wheel drive. 5 speed. I have problems when taking off in the low gears of trk jerking and some rough idle. We have replaced throttle body position sensor still same situation. We cleaned throttle body. If it is not the mass air flow then what else do I need to check. Thanks
Does it have any codes? It can also be bad spark plugs or even a dirty fuel filter. Run a good fuel system cleaner a couple of times and see if it improves, worsens or even makes no difference.
Hi Professor DIY. I have a 2001 toyota avalon with the issues of acceleration and missed fire and rough idle, I have auto zone diagnosed and show fuel injections. I changed all 6 spark plugs, 5 out of 6 ignition coil and 6 fuel injectors, cleaned the throttle body but didn't solve the problems. what else would you recommend to dig into?
P1335 -Engine torque monitor- control limit exceeded - error code on vw golf mk5 gti. Hesitation on low rev acceleration but fine on higher revs and higher speeds. Almost like something is not opening to allow air to flow and causing turbo to flutter. Help needed please?!
Thanks professor i need your advice i have ford spart trac limited 2007 it drives at good speed then suddenly drops say from 120mph to 50 mph what could be the reason? gear sound fine>
I have got a vauxhall corsa loses power when accelerating replaced throttle body and electronic accelerator pedal still no change please what could be the problem
unless you own the electric one The throttle position sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor alternatively air system leaks or dirty air filter/MAF
My Ford Fiesta ST Line has the following error while accelerating - ‘Brake applied, power reduced’. Handbrake is definitely off, what could be causing this?
'Brake applied' doesn't necessarily mean the hand brake. A flaky, loose or misadjusted brake light switch (some Ford models refer to as Brake On/Off (BOO) switch), can cause this too. Some vehicles have more than one.
I have a Nissan qashiqai 2013 1.6 petrol engine recently i have changed total clutch kit but even though it taking slow pickup when i was accelerating it is slow slow pickup and hills its going very slow pickup can please help suggest me
Sir i have a ford ranger 2013 manual transmission with no trouble codes at all but having a hard time going uphill while shifting from 2nd gear to 3rd gear and back to 2nd gear..the rpm goes down so i had to make a half clutch just to rev up the engine on 2nd gear but if the engine stall i go back to 1st gear..any idea about this?
Hello, i have this issue aswell and wanted to know what would happen if you push the gas pedal down when it was not in gear. As i have the same symptons but i was thinking if it was any problems with sparks or maf sensor then how can it happen when in neutral. Thanks
Hi! Im facing poor acceleration in my first 20-30 mins of drive but works properly after 20-30. Already changed my spark plugs. What should I look next? Thanks!
You need an OBD II to identify the cylinder or if it is constant unplug the ignition cables one by one the one that when unplugged does not change the sound of the engine is the bad one.
I’m having a similar issue with my 2011 GTI although I’m only getting hesitation briefly at higher RMPS in gears 4-6 the car has an APR stage 1 tune high flow cat and down pipe along with a cold air intake it has a few codes that I haven’t been able to troubleshoot those being MAP/MAF Throttle Position (P0068) Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor "A" Circuit Range/ Performance (P0101) and Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too High (P0088) I’ve cleaned the MAF and felt the hesitation again recently I’m pretty stumped advice would be awesome
I have a toyota camry 2018 se 2.5l I have misfire cyl 2. Code and also random misfire I believe p3000 I have new fuel pump and filter. New Injectors.. new spark plugs. swapped coils to check if it changes to different cylinder code. Checked leakage for valves. Good. Intake sensor good. MAF sensor is good. Haven't checked compression. But when I disconnect cylinder 2 while misfiring it doesn't change meaning seems that exactly still the area where the problem resides. All others (1,3,4) when disconnected cause it to misfire even more.. I do also get engine power reduced sign on dash. May my 02 sensor for any faulty reason possibly be causing my ECU to think it's running rich or lean and be causing the random misfire and the specific cylinder 2 misfire?? Without popping up a 02 sensor code on OBD 2 scanner???
@ProfessorDIY I reset codes everytime and rerun the car. Same codes keep coming up. And yes I checked air filter and cleaned throttle position sensor. Any tips from here?
@ProfessorDIY I have put all new for injectors. And all 4 new spark plugs. I did swap the coils from second cylinder to first cylinder, but the code comes up on second cylinder still. One important thing that might help was you. Giving me some help is the car starts good, but as soon as I give it some acceleration out on the freeway to push-up to like 40 Miles an hour, it misfires slightly up to 40 and from 40 to 60 Miles an hour it will. Start to miss fire And then the engine loses its power, no matter how far I push down the pedal. When I get back now, when I disconnect second cylinder, it doesn't make a difference on misfire. As if the second cylinder is dead, one way or another. I'm cleaning the oxygen sensor right now. Any other ideas are very welcome. I still appreciate you.
Hello I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata gls and when I start the car it runs then after a couple seconds it shakes and turns off. Wanted to know if the MAF sensor might be the culprit for this
My 2000 Honda civic eu1 jerks when going between 0-30km/h then it’s fine until I come up to a hill or start applying heavy throttle it starts to hesitate what’s the some problems that may cause this and what can I do to troubleshoot and fix if lucky
Misfires can be caused by many reasons if it only happens during acceleration I would check/clean the MAF then the ICV then spark plugs if nothing works so far check the throttle position sensor followed by ignition coils and lastly fuel injectors
What happened I try to accelerate on low gear, but is not responding, but on high speed it work fine, immediately engine sign show on my dashboard, my acceleration will stop working, it look very loss as of air and after some time it pick and stop making it very hard to accelerate on low gear or speed , like accelerating being in traffic
@@ProfessorDIY thanks for your reply I really appreciate, please if more information on what to do because immediately the sign come out on dashboard, accelerating on low gear like on traffic etc because very hard or experiencing fraction in the Tyler , ie like not moving smoothly or something pulling it back, but immediately the car is off and you switch it on again the sign will remove and the car will start moving well , but not to a far distance before it display again
@@ProfessorDIY thanks for your reply I really appreciate, please if more information on what to do because immediately the sign come out on dashboard, accelerating on low gear like on traffic etc because very hard or experiencing fraction in the Tyler , ie like not moving smoothly or something pulling it back, but immediately the car is off and you switch it on again the sign will remove and the car will start moving well , but not to a far distance before it display again
My 2003 accord under pedal to the metal acceleration sometimes won’t kick all the way to full throttle, or sounds like it sits at half power at full throttle, also under hard acceleration above 2 year it will rev as high as possible fast, but you hear the pressure like cut out and come back and cut out, like a you don’t hear the exhaust anymore, as if it’s running and something getitng partially clogged at full throttle. I’m really confused, cleaned fuel system and new plugs, but thinking the cat may be getting clogged or my injector or pump and filter may be dirty, I don’t know can you help?
Hi sir, I have a tuned Range Rover Svr, 65k miles has given me no issues at all except for o2 sensors because I put down pipes on the exhaust. After I did the tune for the down pipes, the car has a weird “ jerk” or “ stutter” right before red line and the after the shift, or when I accelerate without using the paddle shifters it stutters badly. The car in 65k miles has had no maintenance except for spark plugs changes which I did 2 days ago. What do you think the culprit is? Faulty MAF or/and maybe o2?
@@ProfessorDIY I have replaced the o2 a few times I already since the incident has occurred. I do off road the car heavily as well so the engine bay is extremely dirty and maybe that maf somehow in the middle of it all got dirty as well. Yes the ECU was reprogrammed when the car got tuned. The only thing I encountered after the tune was the o2 sensor check engine light, I replaced those sensors and never got a light again, but the stutter remained. It’s not a huge bad stutter but nonetheless it is there.
@@ProfessorDIY also , the car shoots flames but primarily from only one side , leading me to believe it may be running lean on the side it doesn’t shoot flames .
@@ProfessorDIY wanted to quickly update, brought it in to a friends shop. On the obd2 data reader the bank 2 sensor 1 is not responding at all. We’re going to be replacing that now.
Hi sir, theres problem on ford explorer v6 gas engine that im still fixing right now, when youre on half gas pedal engine is hesitating and vibrating then when you put off gas pedal engine minor was good, What was the problem on that engine?
my nissan frontier has been having check light on for years it has random misfire code i change distribuidor coils wires spark plugs mag sensor and idk what else to do anymore the catalytic converter might be clogged tho it smells like pure gas so idk what you thinkg
Hey gym hood man! Could you help me with my 2004 trailblazer with the I6 engine. I replaced the vvt solinoid because it’s popping a p0014 engine code after I replaced the part that should have fixed my problem. But it’s still here. W
@@butterbean0364 It can be as simple as changing the engine oil or you may need to clean or replace the camshaft oil control valve (easy DIY for most cars)
Hey my audi 2.0 turbo hesitates/rpm/car jump up and down when press gas after a complete stop. Already cleaned the maf sensor did all sparkplug and coils . Still has problem
@@ProfessorDIY hi i try to explain better so the audi jerks/hesitates for a few seconds when i press the gas after a stop. After it goes into second gear it is smooth
@@Benjilow109 Sounds like either a fuel /air mixture or metering issue check your throttle position sensor that idle control valve and the throttle body
He dont know if its late but got gti 6 2012 dsg , am having bad misfire on hard acceleration, not on neutral only when am driving, but if i accelerate slowly it doesn't likely to missfire What could be problem Thanks
Received your video as a recommendation in my youtube, Been a diy guy myself who services his own bikes, this ism y first time doing a car service at home. Been learning everything even engine overhaul from last 5 years have gained the therotical and some practical knowledge at friends workshop. But I've a question for you sir, how do I clean my car radiator and condenser fins ? There's the britecoil, tertaclean alkaline solution that doesn the job perfectly but many claims it burns the aluminium lines. Also I'm gona clean the intake manifold and fuel injectors Can I reuse the same gaskit ? My cars maruti Suzuki astar 2010 model type 1.
@@ProfessorDIY Turned out to be the (accelerator) pedal position sensor. I just replaced the whole accelerator pedal assembly and it went away (so far). The AC being on wasn't related, as it also did it late this fall when I was just running the vents.
@@ProfessorDIY You're very welcome! Once I told my local mechanic friend that it was limiting me to 1500rpm on acceleration he told me "you're in limp home mode" and to change the pedal sensor/assembly and it should be good to go. About $40 and 10 minutes of my time and it's been good so far.
My 2015 Silverado5.3 hesitates when accelerating, when you push the pedal all at once it takes a sec to respond and then the truck accelerates but feels like a kick when it does, I replaced tps sensor and map censor, the only one I haven’t replaced is maf but when I checked it it looked brand new so I decided not to change but do you think it could me the maf ?? , my truck also shakes a little at idle tbh could be torque converter since 2014 and 15 have this problem but idk maybe it’s sum else
03 avalanche same issue. Changed all o2 sensors, map, maf, tps as well as throttle body, knock, intake temp sensor , 5 different fuel sources including purple, premium, mid n low grade even poured shine in there.
my 2017 nissan versa note driven about 89,000 miles hesitates when accelerating past 60 miles per hour on the highway. the car shudders as i try to push it past 65 miles per hour. after some time, i can drive it at 65 miles per hour but it only goes for a mile before the speed falls back to 60 miles per hour. it's hard to keep it at 65. sometimes it'll fall to 40 miles per hour
Hello I have a problem with my 2014 Nissan pathfinder. When driving and accelerating it doesn’t go or it won’t pass 20 mph after trying to go any higher mph it’ll start shaking really bad and eventually driving it longer it’ll become overheated. When accelerating it’ll sound like it’s screaming to go. Please help.
My car sometimes doest go past a 4500 rpm and it goes really slow and theres some days where my car gets its power back and it will go past that 4500 rpm and i dont have codes which is strange
I have a 2012 Kia Optima hybrid and when I'm in traffic or I stop a lot and the gasoline engine starts, it revs a lot up to 5k RPM without me doing it and then it gives a thump because it returns to normal... Can someone tell me what problem it may have? It only happens when the normal motor is turned on, with the electric one I have no problem
i have a 1997 integra LS auto as a daily and ive been having an issue where it turns on first try no problem everything is great, computer reads 0 codes, but when its time to drive off weather im backing out of the drive way or just driving forward pushing the pedal down makes RPMs bounce at very low levels before stalling on me and when i turn the key off and turn my car back on it fires right back up and i cannot seems to find a stable fix, i have tried resetting my ECU, checked my ground cables no problems and im not sure what it could be but i also wouldnt want it to be a $50 - $100 fix and me take it to a mechanic and let them charge me $500 for something that wasnt there
@@ProfessorDIY sporadically I can be driving and get up till like 40 45 mi and it just started jerking shaking and things like that I replaced the optical spark plug wires everything still the same issue
My gti 2012 had me stressing with same problem , bought scanner and ended up misfiring on cylinder 2 , bought new coil pack replaced and now drives like new and no more misfire even on cold start in morning
@@ProfessorDIY I have this same problem but I thought it could be carbon build up as well, I am getting error P0300, P0301 and P0303. I changed the coil packs for both of them and a fuel injector for cylinder one and it's still giving me misfire. I would like to know could it be the compression in those cylinder or Manifold. Oh by the way, I have a VW Golf 1.4tsi.
I have a 2016 Chevy Malibu recently after stopping at lights and stepping on acceleration it won’t go for a couple seconds yesterday I tried to go and it wouldn’t after a few seconds it accelerated pretty fast on its own can you suggest anything
My Ford focus 1.4 2007 is losing acceleration on take off I feel the car is not reaching full power when I accelerate, can you help.. from Dublin Ireland 🇨🇮
Hi boss i have Nissan qashqai 2.0 model 2008 Sence one week facing a long staring time which abnormal in my practice as previous routine Some time i feel dropping and jerking of engine RPM during on road driving speed Also when i stop on signal car engine goes off Than i push to stert engine become to start One think i also observed car coolant also become low I hope u r give me a good and nice repair suggestions With thinks
my car don't accelerate until the accelerator is pressed hard. when I press it hard, the car starts running. once it starts running then a small push of the accelerator is enough to run it. when the car slows down again a hard push to the accelerator is required. when the car is running fast, then this problem doesn't exist. This problem exists when my car is running slowly so what do you think could be the problem
Okay so my 05 hinda civic has a problem where it starts right up cold and randomly cuts off after warm and takes a few hrs to crank again jerks badly under heavy acceleration and becomes less powerful
Car sat up for quite sometime from the ppl I bought it from do to this issue
Год назад+1
thnx for this info. i am new to ur channel. keep up the good wrk. we need more ppl like u. do you know the reason for a good running old 2009 vehicle with 195thou miles that now just sudden has developes a weird feeling in the STEERING WHELL when driving. It not from the front ends. i am sure. It feels more a grinding feeling in the steering, not a vibration, but a not so smooth feeling anymore as when it was new. It is weird, and hard to really explain. This vehicle runs great still. You feel it in the steering wheel when the engine is running, this sensation is not felt on the body of the vehicle at all. thnx.again.
I don’t know if you’re still replying but I have a 1999 Toyota Celica and I’m getting nowhere past 3KRPM and I can’t go past 45 before the car starts jerking and starts reducing my not to the point where the cars off but to the point where it forces me back down to 40 or below power, I replace spark, plug, spark wires, fuel pump fuel filter air filter distributor, cap, distributor and nothing what do you think it could be? Sometimes I can get the RPMs to go past 3K when I neutral bomb it or when I’m driving, but the car does not increase in power please HELP!!!! no check engine lights, but on rare occasions, I’ll get misfires last one was in cylinder one please help even just what do you think it could be would help
@ I don’t think I have a maf I think it’s called a speed density system something similar to that but replacing my throttle was next (people keep saying it could be my timing belt)
2014 Subaru Impreza WRX. Car is totally fine until i drop to a lower gear & put it under heavy load. As soon as its above probably 5k RPMs it feels like its kicking back & hesistating & there is a big loss in power.. But it doesnt feel like a full on misfire. No codes popping up, either. Got any suggestions? Also, I did clean my map sensor but it did not help
@@michaelherman3809 For a used car assume they are original, start by replacing spark plugs, it is a maintenance item and a common cause of your symptoms.
Hello i came across your video..and i need to ask a question..hope you can help me figure it out..here goes.. I have a 1997 nissan bluebird u14..am having trouble accelerating whether on flat or uphill..the car would just buffle and vibrate like it want to shut down.
@@ProfessorDIY idle yes but with delay..or sounding like sputtering..puff,puff that's what am getting whether in park,reverse or drive same problem..its just puff,puff,puff
@@ProfessorDIY I change gas pump 2months ago,air and gas filter,leads wire and still its there..my husband also clean the trottle body and the problem persist..the mechanic at this moment I think is just guessing..I changed all he suggested and still....
I have an Audi rs3 and I’ve noticed on 100 percent throttle it kinda sputters and breaks up. And I have no check engine light . My spark plugs are clean no oil or anything on them . They have around 17 k miles on them. What should I look for?
Hello, did you manage to get your issue sorted, I have the same problem with my golf 5 gti, drives well but on a well push acceleration it sputters, if I keep acceleration it really does not have power to accelerate and will read multiple misfire
Hello, my RSX auto is having a problem under acceleration. When under acceleration it will sometimes hesitate. Mostly happens a ton after a startup, but happens randomly too. No check engine light. Can’t tell what’s up. Do you mind pointing me in the right direction?
@@ProfessorDIY No. This is a perfect example. While I was in traffic the other day, my foot was on the brake and after releasing the brake and hitting the gas pedal the car surges back and forth slightly before moving
My 2004 mazda 3 2.3l cuts out on full throttle some times and then sometimes it’s fine it’s a 5 speed manual and has exhaust so I don’t think my cats clogged but I’m very confused cause there’s no code and it’s cuts out on full throttle but is fine half throttle and normal driving
Hi, please help In a hard stop, my car wont go forward till I press the gas pedal to the floor, in other senario from a parking, I shift it to drive with no pressing the gas pedal, it forwards but when I shift it to drive with pressing the the gas normally like 10% to 20% it stops till I press it a 100% again then it forwards [Automatic car] Changed/Replaced: -Transmission oil -Engine oil -Oil Filter -Air Filter -PCV -IACV -MAF -TPS -O2s -Spark plugs -Battery Cleaned: -Catalytic -Exaust -Throttle body What else I'll do, I have still the delay acceleration from hard stop. . .Hope this comment will be notice :) :) :)
My 2005 3.0 Sable ls Duratec engine, had the ac compressor replaced, and after that, is being hesiting and loosing power after 1 hour driving. There's no check engine light on, there's no noise. I changed the spark plugs and coils, air filter, had the oil changed before the compressor was replaced. The car never did any of that before the compressor was changed. What could be causing this,since there's no check engine light on. Anyone, please help..
It’s very possible that the new compressor is bad and will not spin without more torque than spec. When the clutch engages and your engine goes to start turning it, it hits a wall of resistance causing a jerking. You better have it checked out.
I'm hoping for replies to this also.... I had a coolant leak on my 2017 vw Passat 1.8tsi mk7 so i changed out the thermostat housing and everything seemed ok until the first run... Firstly the gears would hang in 2nd and 3rd for a lot longer than before (shifts at 4.5rpm rather than around 2.5) then after about 2 miles i goy a stop start error - i don't use that feature so it wouldn't normally bother me but it now displays an EML light now and it won't disappear I have code scanned it but no fault codes displayed Battery wasn't disconnected during change of thermostat housing I've also checked the standing - ignition off / resting voltage is at 12.4v so all good there and the initial Start up spike does not go below 11.2v I will check the running voltage but everything seems ok with the resting voltage output Everywhere I've looked says it's the battery but clearly not in this case Spark plugs have just been changed also Car doesn't seem to be as responsive as it was before and seems sluggish but climbs the gears ok (apart from 2nd and 3rd) Everything else works as it should I've even tried everything switched on but that doesn't affect anything (like flickering lights, dimmed lights etc.) so doesn't seem like it's got a parasitic drain anywhere Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you all who reply in advance
Start with the simple first like the air filter and such then Clean the throttle body, MAF sensor, and if not resolved middle control and throttle position sensor
Hello, my car is hesitating between 3-5k rpm i tried replacing the spark plugs, fuel filter , new battery, and i even adjust the distributor timing. My car is Honda Civic Vti (2000) im running out of ideas. Thank you
Hi, my automatic 2007 audi a4 quattro 2.0L turbo has acceleration issues. It cranks and starts fine. But intermittently on a flat road it doesn't have power to accelerate when i pressed on gas pedal. When i tried flooring the gas pedal the rpm just goes up to about 4000 before gear shifted. On a light hill it struggles so much. Rpm would just get stucked at 3000 no matter how hard i push the gas pedal. So far i have changed fuel filter, new sparks and coil, maf sensor and cleaned throttle body. I hope it's not the transmission. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Thank you for your reply. I believe for my car the sensor is built in the throttle body assembly. However I do see a sensor similar to the one in your video. Not the MAF but the other one with 2 pins. Is the the TPS? Thanks
@@jamesschmidt1120 Nope, clogged exhaust feels quite different and has symptoms when starting or fiddling as well unlike the scenario we are talking about here
Hey, i got one hell of a problem. My car (2.0 tsi vw passat b7) is reporting a rich mixture both at idle and off idle. When stationary, the revs drop and sometimes even the engine dies. Cold starts are very rough (revs fluctuate anywhere between 500 and 1100ish rpms) but only for 10 to 20 seconds. Odd, right? Now the funny thing is, all of these problems only occur in HOT WEATHER. Yup,only if there are 20 or more celcius degrees. Whenever i drive my car in the winter, mostly sub 10 celcius degrees, my car runs perfectly fine every single time. well..at least the 3 to 4 months while it's cold outside. I have tried fixing the problem for multiple years. Even rebuilt the engine. Changed fuel pump, fuel control module, inspected evap system, pcv valve, spark plugs, ignition coils, Nothing seems to help. However, i did i tiny experiment. I noticed there is way too much air drawn from the pcv valve to the intake manifold. So i added a reduction valve. My idle problems went away (not completly but it's better) but now there is an hesitation when i press the gas pedal when i want to get moving from a stationary position. My theory is that there is something wrong inside the intake manifold and my car tried to compensate for the missing air (probably caused by a stuck valve,flap inside the intake manifold) by drawing too much air from the pcv valve. I don't know..i am completly lost. Any ideas? Sorry for any english mistakes
@ProfessorDIY so based on my reader the throttle position is 17% when engine is off, 13% at idle and goes to a maximum of 87%. However, if i press the gas pedal when the engine is off, it drops from 17% to 12%. Anything unusual?
Lost your train of thought.... Lol so nice to know someone else besides me does this. Thank you my friend
Any time my friend
you can put me on that list as well..lol
Thank you for sharing your troubleshooting process. I am facing the exact same issue and will go for changing soark plugs as well.
Plugs are always a good starting place unless they are brand new
First of all thank you for answering to every comment!
I got some issues with Nissan Primera P11. Its SR20De engine. When the engine is cold and I accelerate a little on idle, the RPM stays for a few seconds by itself. Changed sparks, cables, distributor cap, cleaned MAF and even changed the knock sensor. It is very odd, the RPM just stays on for a few seconds then it drops
You may want to clean the Idler control valve and if that does not help replace it.
@Adam B it has nothing to do with modern but rather the engineering, throttle positioning does not substitute a ICV they perform different functions, the idle is either controlled by the ECU or a vacuum valve. Maybe you need to change the positioning sensor both at your pedal and at your throttle body if you have a multimeter you can test them to ensure they are still goog. throttle bodies rarely go bad
Will soon try it out. Thanks a lot! Updating the situation when I check that out.
Another good thing to look at is if there is oil in the spark plugs or coils. If there is, replace the valve cover gasket. That’s what I’m doing to hopefully fix my issue. If that doesn’t fully fix it I’ll check the sensors too. I already replaced the spark plugs.
In older cars some oil in the plugs is not a concern but if they are soaked you are correct
To
@@ProfessorDIY what causes oil soaked spark plug ? Out of 6 one had a lot of oil on and in it - every plug was black
@@paulsultana8683 if you are lucky a failing PCV valve or running very rich, common causes are Damaged spark plug tubes, worn piston rings or damaged valve seals what other symptoms do you have?
Thanks, i have a 2008 Honda accord, i clean that, and my air filter , you save me a lot of money
You are very welcomed
Hello, really enjoyed your video and could use your help. My Honda Accord hesitates but only at high rpm (~7200) or at high speed (5th gear, 130 mph). Cleaned the throttle body and sensors about 10k miles ago. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance
@@AD-bx5fm a bad or dirty maf sensor can cause this also check for vacuum leaks and throttle position sensor operation
Looks like you reply to every comment on here so I'll give it a shot. I have a 2013 BMW 528i xdrive that hesitates when accelerating. The problem did very minorly begin after changing out the spark plugs and coil packs. 3 months after changing those (spark plugs and coil packs) I installed an exhaust cutout that bypassed the resonator and muffler. This when I really started to notice the issue, although it might have just been a coincidence. Since then, I have switched the coil packs back to the original ones with no improvement and I have gone through 2 tanks of fuel injector cleaner with no improvement. I noticed my vacuum line had some oil in it from the vacuum pump sucking up engine oil so I am replacing the vacuum pump next. I think the vacuum line operates the wastegate and maybe that is affecting my car? If the vacuum pump doesn't work, I will do the spark plugs again. Maybe I bought bad spark plugs. Permanent engine code cylinder 1 misfire P0301 and stored code engine too lean P0171
switch the cylinder one coil with the coil from cylinder 3 and see if you get a p0303 error, do not worry about the lean code, for now, it is more likely to have a bad coil than a bad spark plug unless you bought the wrong temperature range plugs, what grade of gasoline are you using? you can also try to add some octane booster and see if it makes a difference, I have an M5 and love it!
Too lean means not enough fuel pressure. Try changing your fuel filter first and if that doesn't work check the fuel regulator. And lastly check the fuel pump. My 2015 just had a fuel pump slowly fail so a 2013 is right on schedule to need a replacement fuel pump.
I have a 2001 Toyota Sequoia SR5 and it buckles if I just give it gas from a stopped position, also if I’m stopped and I put it in drive and just let my truck walk it bogs, but goes away when I give it gas. If there’s any input you can give me I’d gladly appreciate it.
sounds like either throttle positioning or accelerator positioning switch based on what you describe
Yes. I like watching automotive articles like this one. Actually I have subscribed to your channel. I'm Greg Santos, watching here in Manila, Philippines 🇵🇭
Thank you Greg and welcome to our community!
I'm having issues with my 2011 Chevy Cruze ecotec. No codes pop up except when I'm accelerating at a higher speed or going up hills. I've replaced throttle body and all of spark plugs and cleaned MAF and also replaced air filter. I have also replaced the PCV valve and the purge valve. When the air conditioner is on, it makes symptoms worse. If I'm at a red light and have a/c on, it will either go very slow or almost die once I start to accelerate. I'm too cheap to go take it to someone to get diagnosed I don't want to spend $150 just to find out it's some $10 part. I can't figure out what to do next.
The idle control valve is inexpensive and possibly your issue
I actually felt like my AC had something to do with my cars hesitation. Replacing spark plugs will be my next step. I did try cleaning the MAFS but it did nothing, then I replaced the MAFS and that helped a little. I am also going to change the filter and see if that helps. Hopefully changing the spark plugs will do the trick! Thank you.
unless your engine is severely underpowered the AC should not have a severe impact
@@ProfessorDIY my car’s bad idle gets even worse when I blast my AC.
@@angiegracie6954 check your vacum system and your air filter
@@ProfessorDIY 👍 ty
My throttle body is stacked open. Mass airflow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - range/performance problem
Mass Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem, Intake air flap control actuator position sensor - circuit high, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input, Mass airflow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - range/performance problem. Can you think those faults can cause a fault to my throttle body to be stuck open? Thank you very much for this video. It's always something to learn. Much appreciated. I will follow any advice. First I will start with this one.
no O suspect that a cleaning will free the throttle body
Ok, hopefully, u answer because im really trying not to give up on my car, it idles pretty good and starts right up but my problem is whem i try to accelerate it struggles to move/run ... I've changed fuel pump, maf ,pedal sensor cleaned throttle idk what else to do
Check the throttle position sensor and the acceleration pedal position sensor
What about the Fuel Filter ??
did you find any solution?
Oh oh oh... I was going to use brake disc cleaner on the maf sensor... thank you for pointing out the right stuff to use.
I have a C220 cdi, 16 years old with 109k miles. I've had it 5 years and acceleration from start is very slow untill the turbo comes in. There are no fault codes for the maf but I'm sure a good clean / maintainance could maybe fix the acceleration issue. It is too lazy for a 2.2 engine, there must be something wrong. If this is still the original maf sensor, I'm thinking it might still work but after all these years never cleaned, maybe, maybe it is not reading correct values.
Lol , good you didn’t 😂.
I used throttle body cleaner which is much closer to MAF cleaner but the car stopped working. But I had a genuine idea and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol. It takes away the grease and dries as fast as the MAF cleaner. Emergency back up
Update.... holy cow... the difference is night and day. The MAF sensor was so dirty, never been cleaned for sure. After the clean I have acceleration like mad, finaly after years of driving it as it was.
It might be your turbo fan but you are correct no harm in cleaning sensoers
It is my birthday today, thank you 😁🎉
once again then: Happy birthday
I guess I’m going to add a comment in hopes to get a reply. I’m a single full time mom & just bought a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe sport mode from a reputable dealership.
A few hours ago I turned on to the on-ramp to merge on to the interstate.
When I hit the gas it didn’t accelerate at all like it normally does or should. Instead the rpm’s shot up way higher than they normally do & the car was hardly accelerating. I’m talking like 3 mph per 15 seconds.
I was pretty low on gas so I decided to get off the highway & see if that helped the issue.
It seemed fine, until I pulled out of the parking lot. Then the problem continued again.
I live in the mountains & I had to go up a maybe 1/4 mile long steep mountain. I could hardly go past 40-50 mph.
I stopped & opened the hood & let the car cool down because right before this all started I had been parked in a hot parking lot for several hours & it was 90 Fahrenheit outside.
Since this has started, I’ve noticed I cannot accelerate up hills past 40, maybe 50 tops if I am lucky.
It seems to be somewhat fine until I have to go over 30-40. It seems like the rpm’s are normal ish until I get to that speed as well.
I literally don’t know what to do. I just want to cry honestly. I just bought this car 3 weeks ago. Spent 15k on it from the ford dealership.
From everything I’ve read about this problem online from others personal stories, it seems like this is a common problem for Hyundais with no fix.
It is possible that it is an air filter issue or even a vacuum leak, do you hear anything like a section sound when you have the hood open?
@@ProfessorDIY I’m assuming I would hear that sound with the car on, correct?
When I opened the hood I had the car off. So I can check it with the car on & see!
@@ProfessorDIY I just opened the hood, with the car on.
I did not hear a suction sound that was noticeable to my amateur ears.
What I did notice was extreme heat that I feel like I shouldn’t be there. Especially after the car was just off for 15 minutes. It almost seemed like the hot air was blowing from somewhere but I couldn’t quite figure out from where.
@@ProfessorDIY also, when I have the acceleration problem (going up hills) (getting up past 40), the car sounds like a lawn mower. Kinda like a deep mmmmmmm sound
@@keiravanhanken4876 other than the lack of acceleration any other symptoms? check engine light on?
Hey Sir I have a 95 Nissan hardbody truck 4 cylinder 2 wheel drive. 5 speed. I have problems when taking off in the low gears of trk jerking and some rough idle. We have replaced throttle body position sensor still same situation. We cleaned throttle body. If it is not the mass air flow then what else do I need to check. Thanks
Does it have any codes? It can also be bad spark plugs or even a dirty fuel filter. Run a good fuel system cleaner a couple of times and see if it improves, worsens or even makes no difference.
Hey same issue here but I work as an hood technician with a 2002 Nissan gxe 1.8l and I did fuel system cleaning, replacing camshaft, and still no fix
I have a 2012 Silverado with the 5.3 had misfire issues changed plugs and wires and still getting them randomly should I try this?
Most certainly and Good luck!
Clean your throttle body
@@bjjones18 No need problem is solved
Maybe you could help me. 5.7 hemi druve by wire, rough idle poor acceleration at slow speeds,but when i floor it ,it runs great.
Sounds like an idle control valve but I would also check the MAF and the air filter
Hi Professor DIY. I have a 2001 toyota avalon with the issues of acceleration and missed fire and rough idle, I have auto zone diagnosed and show fuel injections. I changed all 6 spark plugs, 5 out of 6 ignition coil and 6 fuel injectors, cleaned the throttle body but didn't solve the problems. what else would you recommend to dig into?
Do you have the codes? Fuel injectors do fail but not commonly
@ProfessorDIY I don't recalled the codes but it randomly missed all of the 6.
Since it affects all cylinders it is less likely that it is Spar plugs or injectors. MAF sensor or even dirty air filters is where I would start.
P1335 -Engine torque monitor- control limit exceeded - error code on vw golf mk5 gti. Hesitation on low rev acceleration but fine on higher revs and higher speeds. Almost like something is not opening to allow air to flow and causing turbo to flutter. Help needed please?!
sounds like a module/sensor fault
Thanks professor i need your advice i have ford spart trac limited 2007 it drives at good speed then suddenly drops say from 120mph to 50 mph what could be the reason? gear sound fine>
What else is happening? Rapid drop in RPM or rise in RPM?
Rapid drop in RPM
I have got a vauxhall corsa loses power when accelerating replaced throttle body and electronic accelerator pedal still no change please what could be the problem
unless you own the electric one The throttle position sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor alternatively air system leaks or dirty air filter/MAF
My Ford Fiesta ST Line has the following error while accelerating - ‘Brake applied, power reduced’. Handbrake is definitely off, what could be causing this?
souds like a sensor to mre unless you are accidentally press both pedals at the same time
'Brake applied' doesn't necessarily mean the hand brake. A flaky, loose or misadjusted brake light switch (some Ford models refer to as Brake On/Off (BOO) switch), can cause this too. Some vehicles have more than one.
What kind of sensor was the second sensor you pulled out?
In this car that is a temperature sensor
I got a p0505 and p1001 my maf sensor voltage is good but my g/s is over 15 and should be @1-2g/s
clean air filter and no vacuum leaks?
@@ProfessorDIY i have a tear on my intake duct after the maf but i put duct tape on it do u think it would still read wrong?
@@LuwisRz yes it is almost ceratin it reads wriong -
I have a Nissan qashiqai 2013 1.6 petrol engine recently i have changed total clutch kit but even though it taking slow pickup when i was accelerating it is slow slow pickup and hills its going very slow pickup can please help suggest me
@@koteshnaidu1998 check throttle position and accelerator position sensor
Sir i have a ford ranger 2013 manual transmission with no trouble codes at all but having a hard time going uphill while shifting from 2nd gear to 3rd gear and back to 2nd gear..the rpm goes down so i had to make a half clutch just to rev up the engine on 2nd gear but if the engine stall i go back to 1st gear..any idea about this?
Have you checked your vacuum system and the throttle position sensor?
@@ProfessorDIY the throttle body has been cleaned together with the turbo and the egr intake manifold..
@@DenDen_10 The sensor can not be cleaned if it is worn out and to is not cleaned when the throttle body is cleaned
Hello, i have this issue aswell and wanted to know what would happen if you push the gas pedal down when it was not in gear. As i have the same symptons but i was thinking if it was any problems with sparks or maf sensor then how can it happen when in neutral. Thanks
More than likely is is a throttle position sensor
@@ProfessorDIY Thanks, I will check this out
M having this problem in my one year old Hyundai tucson 2.0 and it struggles especially during initial gears . Also hearing engine noise
Sounds like transmission issue maybe the shift solenoid if you are lucky
I floor the gas pedal quickly and have a delay in acceleration. What could be the problem?
Not enough air
@ throttle had been replaced and can u specify how to get me air
replace/clean your air filter and check fir vacuum leaks
Hi! Im facing poor acceleration in my first 20-30 mins of drive but works properly after 20-30. Already changed my spark plugs. What should I look next? Thanks!
Your intake temperature control sensor, possible air leaks, and the mixture control valve
I like this. : ) Facing similar issue. Pulling my hair out. I'm not a pro mech. What other clues lead to you the particular spark plug?
You need an OBD II to identify the cylinder or if it is constant unplug the ignition cables one by one the one that when unplugged does not change the sound of the engine is the bad one.
@@ProfessorDIY : Perfect! You are skilled. : ) Thank you and God Bless you! I like your production on the video too. : )
@@horacesawyer2487 Thank you for your comment and for watching!
Hi can a gearbox mount cause car to shake and make rattling noise at idle manual car thanks
Yesbt soo can a lot of other things
Does the rattle go away with the clutch pedal depressed? If so, likely the release bearing.
I’m having a similar issue with my 2011 GTI although I’m only getting hesitation briefly at higher RMPS in gears 4-6 the car has an APR stage 1 tune high flow cat and down pipe along with a cold air intake it has a few codes that I haven’t been able to troubleshoot those being MAP/MAF Throttle Position (P0068) Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor "A" Circuit Range/ Performance (P0101) and Fuel Rail/System Pressure -
Too High (P0088) I’ve cleaned the MAF and felt the hesitation again recently I’m pretty stumped advice would be awesome
I would replace your throttle position sensor first.
I have a toyota camry 2018 se 2.5l
I have misfire cyl 2. Code and also random misfire I believe p3000
I have new fuel pump and filter. New Injectors.. new spark plugs. swapped coils to check if it changes to different cylinder code.
Checked leakage for valves. Good.
Intake sensor good. MAF sensor is good.
Haven't checked compression. But when I disconnect cylinder 2 while misfiring it doesn't change meaning seems that exactly still the area where the problem resides. All others (1,3,4) when disconnected cause it to misfire even more..
I do also get engine power reduced sign on dash.
May my 02 sensor for any faulty reason possibly be causing my ECU to think it's running rich or lean and be causing the random misfire and the specific cylinder 2 misfire?? Without popping up a 02 sensor code on OBD 2 scanner???
Did you also check for pending codes or just active/stored codes? Also did you check your ait filter and throttle position sensor?
@ProfessorDIY I reset codes everytime and rerun the car. Same codes keep coming up. And yes I checked air filter and cleaned throttle position sensor.
Any tips from here?
@@monstermind4286 I would check the injectors starting with the known misfiring culinder
@ProfessorDIY I have put all new for injectors. And all 4 new spark plugs. I did swap the coils from second cylinder to first cylinder, but the code comes up on second cylinder still. One important thing that might help was you. Giving me some help is the car starts good, but as soon as I give it some acceleration out on the freeway to push-up to like 40 Miles an hour, it misfires slightly up to 40 and from 40 to 60 Miles an hour it will. Start to miss fire And then the engine loses its power, no matter how far I push down the pedal. When I get back now, when I disconnect second cylinder, it doesn't make a difference on misfire. As if the second cylinder is dead, one way or another. I'm cleaning the oxygen sensor right now. Any other ideas are very welcome. I still appreciate you.
You replaced both injectors and coils?
Hello I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata gls and when I start the car it runs then after a couple seconds it shakes and turns off. Wanted to know if the MAF sensor might be the culprit for this
It can but also I would suspect the Idle control valve
@@ProfessorDIY appreciate the response I’ll check that as well
@@CLAPPII242 Anytime
I notice between 1500-2000 RPM when I'm maintaining a certain speed is when I start getting this hesitation. ( No engine light)
That might be your throttle position sensor
My 2000 Honda civic eu1 jerks when going between 0-30km/h then it’s fine until I come up to a hill or start applying heavy throttle it starts to hesitate what’s the some problems that may cause this and what can I do to troubleshoot and fix if lucky
Misfires can be caused by many reasons if it only happens during acceleration I would check/clean the MAF then the ICV then spark plugs if nothing works so far check the throttle position sensor followed by ignition coils and lastly fuel injectors
@gorkman5697 Yes of course I did
What happened I try to accelerate on low gear, but is not responding, but on high speed it work fine, immediately engine sign show on my dashboard, my acceleration will stop working, it look very loss as of air and after some time it pick and stop making it very hard to accelerate on low gear or speed , like accelerating being in traffic
I would check the throttle position sensor and the throttle control valve
@@ProfessorDIY thanks for your reply I really appreciate, please if more information on what to do because immediately the sign come out on dashboard, accelerating on low gear like on traffic etc because very hard or experiencing fraction in the Tyler , ie like not moving smoothly or something pulling it back, but immediately the car is off and you switch it on again the sign will remove and the car will start moving well , but not to a far distance before it display again
@@ProfessorDIY thanks for your reply I really appreciate, please if more information on what to do because immediately the sign come out on dashboard, accelerating on low gear like on traffic etc because very hard or experiencing fraction in the Tyler , ie like not moving smoothly or something pulling it back, but immediately the car is off and you switch it on again the sign will remove and the car will start moving well , but not to a far distance before it display again
@@robin-action1394 Did you try the throttle position sensor?
So my Fiat manual transmission is starting to hesitate from 2nd to 3rd during acceleration. Any suggestions? Thanks No check engine light
If it only does it in that instance start with throttle position sensors and air filters MAF sensor
What about automatic transmission?
My 2003 accord under pedal to the metal acceleration sometimes won’t kick all the way to full throttle, or sounds like it sits at half power at full throttle, also under hard acceleration above 2 year it will rev as high as possible fast, but you hear the pressure like cut out and come back and cut out, like a you don’t hear the exhaust anymore, as if it’s running and something getitng partially clogged at full throttle. I’m really confused, cleaned fuel system and new plugs, but thinking the cat may be getting clogged or my injector or pump and filter may be dirty, I don’t know can you help?
I would check the throttle positioning sensor
Ever got it fixed?
Hi sir,
I have a tuned Range Rover Svr, 65k miles has given me no issues at all except for o2 sensors because I put down pipes on the exhaust. After I did the tune for the down pipes, the car has a weird “ jerk” or “ stutter” right before red line and the after the shift, or when I accelerate without using the paddle shifters it stutters badly. The car in 65k miles has had no maintenance except for spark plugs changes which I did 2 days ago. What do you think the culprit is? Faulty MAF or/and maybe o2?
My best guess is the O2 sensors, also dod you reprogram the ECU after the mod?
@@ProfessorDIY I have replaced the o2 a few times I already since the incident has occurred. I do off road the car heavily as well so the engine bay is extremely dirty and maybe that maf somehow in the middle of it all got dirty as well. Yes the ECU was reprogrammed when the car got tuned. The only thing I encountered after the tune was the o2 sensor check engine light, I replaced those sensors and never got a light again, but the stutter remained. It’s not a huge bad stutter but nonetheless it is there.
@@ProfessorDIY also , the car shoots flames but primarily from only one side , leading me to believe it may be running lean on the side it doesn’t shoot flames .
@@Unknownscientists It all points to ECU
@@ProfessorDIY wanted to quickly update, brought it in to a friends shop. On the obd2 data reader the bank 2 sensor 1 is not responding at all. We’re going to be replacing that now.
Hi sir, theres problem on ford explorer v6 gas engine that im still fixing right now, when youre on half gas pedal engine is hesitating and vibrating then when you put off gas pedal engine minor was good,
What was the problem on that engine?
Check all the things we discussed plus the throttle position sensor
my nissan frontier has been having check light on for years it has random misfire code i change distribuidor coils wires spark plugs mag sensor and idk what else to do anymore the catalytic converter might be clogged tho it smells like pure gas so idk what you thinkg
Smell of gas indicates you car is running rich and that can cause misfires
Hey gym hood man! Could you help me with my 2004 trailblazer with the I6 engine. I replaced the vvt solinoid because it’s popping a p0014 engine code after I replaced the part that should have fixed my problem. But it’s still here. W
Other issues can cause error P0014
@@ProfessorDIY what would you suggest my good man?
@@butterbean0364 It can be as simple as changing the engine oil or you may need to clean or replace the camshaft oil control valve (easy DIY for most cars)
Hey my audi 2.0 turbo hesitates/rpm/car jump up and down when press gas after a complete stop. Already cleaned the maf sensor did all sparkplug and coils . Still has problem
Not quite sure what you are describing but if your RPM is erratic I would check all Wiring and the throttle position sensor
@@ProfessorDIY hi i try to explain better so the audi jerks/hesitates for a few seconds when i press the gas after a stop. After it goes into second gear it is smooth
@@Benjilow109 Sounds like either a fuel /air mixture or metering issue check your throttle position sensor that idle control valve and the throttle body
@@ProfessorDIY will do thanks Professor
@@Benjilow109 let me know how it goes
He dont know if its late but got gti 6 2012 dsg , am having bad misfire on hard acceleration, not on neutral only when am driving, but if i accelerate slowly it doesn't likely to missfire
What could be problem
Thanks
If I continue hard accelerate then triggers epc light and engine misfires badly then switch off and start again back to normal
It can be a throttle position sensor or even a dirty air filter
@@ProfessorDIY thanks buddy but it was cylinder 2 coilpack , changed new one runs great now , had misfire on cold start went away as well
@@brianwalugembe9096 In general spark plugs and coils are the first things to check or change when you have misfires, glad you fixed it!
Received your video as a recommendation in my youtube,
Been a diy guy myself who services his own bikes, this ism y first time doing a car service at home.
Been learning everything even engine overhaul from last 5 years have gained the therotical and some practical knowledge at friends workshop.
But I've a question for you sir, how do I clean my car radiator and condenser fins ?
There's the britecoil, tertaclean alkaline solution that doesn the job perfectly but many claims it burns the aluminium lines.
Also I'm gona clean the intake manifold and fuel injectors
Can I reuse the same gaskit ?
My cars maruti Suzuki astar 2010 model type 1.
My 2007 Tahoe (220k) only has the acceleration hesitation when the AC is on. Wondering what that could be? AC Compressor/Condenser maybe? No codes.
That is a weird one but still likely suspects are air/vacuum system
@@ProfessorDIY Turned out to be the (accelerator) pedal position sensor. I just replaced the whole accelerator pedal assembly and it went away (so far). The AC being on wasn't related, as it also did it late this fall when I was just running the vents.
@@m1cajah thank you for the update!
@@ProfessorDIY You're very welcome! Once I told my local mechanic friend that it was limiting me to 1500rpm on acceleration he told me "you're in limp home mode" and to change the pedal sensor/assembly and it should be good to go. About $40 and 10 minutes of my time and it's been good so far.
@@m1cajah many people do not even know that thrirle position and petal position throtles exist - somre mechanics take advantage of this
My 2015 Silverado5.3 hesitates when accelerating, when you push the pedal all at once it takes a sec to respond and then the truck accelerates but feels like a kick when it does, I replaced tps sensor and map censor, the only one I haven’t replaced is maf but when I checked it it looked brand new so I decided not to change but do you think it could me the maf ?? , my truck also shakes a little at idle tbh could be torque converter since 2014 and 15 have this problem but idk maybe it’s sum else
i think your vehicle is misfiring
03 avalanche same issue. Changed all o2 sensors, map, maf, tps as well as throttle body, knock, intake temp sensor , 5 different fuel sources including purple, premium, mid n low grade even poured shine in there.
@@uncleasshole3787 next step ignition coils.
@@uncleasshole3787 tbh I heard maybe a tune up will fix it but idk where to get a tune up at and what a tune up really is.
My Nissan micra 2012 wont rev past 2000km but it starts very well what could be the problem
The throttle position sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor alternatively air system leaks or dirty air filter/MAF
my 2017 nissan versa note driven about 89,000 miles hesitates when accelerating past 60 miles per hour on the highway. the car shudders as i try to push it past 65 miles per hour. after some time, i can drive it at 65 miles per hour but it only goes for a mile before the speed falls back to 60 miles per hour. it's hard to keep it at 65. sometimes it'll fall to 40 miles per hour
Sounds like an air/fuel mixture issue. Check your MAF and your air filter
@@ProfessorDIY thanks so much 💜
Hello I have a problem with my 2014 Nissan pathfinder. When driving and accelerating it doesn’t go or it won’t pass 20 mph after trying to go any higher mph it’ll start shaking really bad and eventually driving it longer it’ll become overheated. When accelerating it’ll sound like it’s screaming to go. Please help.
Also when driving the engine light will blink
Check your oil, transmission, and coolant lines for any contamination, you appear to have multiple issues going on
My car sometimes doest go past a 4500 rpm and it goes really slow and theres some days where my car gets its power back and it will go past that 4500 rpm and i dont have codes which is strange
I am sorry I do not understand your symptoms
My ford figo also hesitate when accelerating. Also heavy on fuel. No codes. Idle and start perfectly
Based on what you describe I would check/clean yjr MAF the mixture control and the throttle position sensor
I have a 2012 Kia Optima hybrid and when I'm in traffic or I stop a lot and the gasoline engine starts, it revs a lot up to 5k RPM without me doing it and then it gives a thump because it returns to normal... Can someone tell me what problem it may have? It only happens when the normal motor is turned on, with the electric one I have no problem
Unfortunately I have never owned a KIA and I do not know much about them, but it sounds to me like a sensor issue
i have a 1997 integra LS auto as a daily and ive been having an issue where it turns on first try no problem everything is great, computer reads 0 codes, but when its time to drive off weather im backing out of the drive way or just driving forward pushing the pedal down makes RPMs bounce at very low levels before stalling on me and when i turn the key off and turn my car back on it fires right back up and i cannot seems to find a stable fix, i have tried resetting my ECU, checked my ground cables no problems and im not sure what it could be but i also wouldnt want it to be a $50 - $100 fix and me take it to a mechanic and let them charge me $500 for something that wasnt there
That sounds like an idle control issue - have you tries to adjust the throttle
@@ProfessorDIY im going to clean the IACV and re-adjust the throttle and see if that makes a difference, thanks man! wish me luck
@@acaciusaimadid it work?
I have a 94 Cadillac Fleetwood,5.3 engine,,I have a jerking and hesitation I have tried everything,, can you please help me
More detail is needed, when are the symptoms present?
@@ProfessorDIY sporadically I can be driving and get up till like 40 45 mi and it just started jerking shaking and things like that I replaced the optical spark plug wires everything still the same issue
@@georgefields3396 try to clean replace your throttle position sensor
@@ProfessorDIY thanks will do...
My gti 2012 had me stressing with same problem , bought scanner and ended up misfiring on cylinder 2 , bought new coil pack replaced and now drives like new and no more misfire even on cold start in morning
The most common misfire cause is sparkplugs, followed by coils and then air issues like MAF
@@ProfessorDIY I have this same problem but I thought it could be carbon build up as well, I am getting error P0300, P0301 and P0303. I changed the coil packs for both of them and a fuel injector for cylinder one and it's still giving me misfire.
I would like to know could it be the compression in those cylinder or Manifold.
Oh by the way, I have a VW Golf 1.4tsi.
@@ckbond41 what model and year is your car?
@@ProfessorDIY its a 2015
@@ProfessorDIY It's a Golf 2015.
I have a 2016 Chevy Malibu recently after stopping at lights and stepping on acceleration it won’t go for a couple seconds yesterday I tried to go and it wouldn’t after a few seconds it accelerated pretty fast on its own can you suggest anything
Does the engine stumble? RPM drop? or is it doing something else?
I have simaler problem for infiniti g37 rpm sits at 2.5 hesitates then jumps to 5k when my foot is on pedal
My 2018 Silverado has this problem, the Pedel gets hard when I reach 40 mph
That seems like a different issue do you know if you have a pedal positioning sensor or if you can adjust the tension on your throttle body?
@@ProfessorDIY I’m not sure to be honest, I just got the truck , is a 2018 Silverado z71
My car accelerates, but after 3k rpm the car starts to lose power and shake abit, what the problem?would be appreciated for your answer
I would start with the air system. Air filter, MAF, and vacuum leaks. Then a would check test the throttle position sensor
It also drained the battery but alternator is working vw polo bujwa 1.6
I am no9t sure draining the battery is related to this issue unless it happens when your voltage is very low
This is exactly what my kia is doing. Thank you so much for information!!!
Very glad to be able to help.
My Ford focus 1.4 2007 is losing acceleration on take off I feel the car is not reaching full power when I accelerate, can you help.. from Dublin Ireland 🇨🇮
I would check and if needed replace the Throttle position sensor
Your exhaust could be clogged
Hi boss i have Nissan qashqai 2.0 model 2008
Sence one week facing a long staring time which abnormal in my practice as previous routine
Some time i feel dropping and jerking of engine RPM during on road driving speed
Also when i stop on signal car engine goes off
Than i push to stert engine become to start
One think i also observed car coolant also become low
I hope u r give me a good and nice repair suggestions
With thinks
check your throttle position sensor and clean the throttle nody
good job.
Thank you
my car don't accelerate until the accelerator is pressed hard. when I press it hard, the car starts running. once it starts running then a small push of the accelerator is enough to run it. when the car slows down again a hard push to the accelerator is required. when the car is running fast, then this problem doesn't exist. This problem exists when my car is running slowly so what do you think could be the problem
Based on your symptoms I would check your accelerator position sensor and the throttle position sensor first
Okay so my 05 hinda civic has a problem where it starts right up cold and randomly cuts off after warm and takes a few hrs to crank again jerks badly under heavy acceleration and becomes less powerful
I would start with spark plugs do you have any codes?
@Professor DIY no I have no codes at all but it seems to be fuel related but I can start with plugs first
Car sat up for quite sometime from the ppl I bought it from do to this issue
thnx for this info. i am new to ur channel. keep up the good wrk. we need more ppl like u. do you know the reason for a good running old 2009 vehicle with 195thou miles that now just sudden has developes a weird feeling in the STEERING WHELL when driving. It not from the front ends. i am sure. It feels more a grinding feeling in the steering, not a vibration, but a not so smooth feeling anymore as when it was new. It is weird, and hard to really explain. This vehicle runs great still. You feel it in the steering wheel when the engine is running, this sensation is not felt on the body of the vehicle at all. thnx.again.
I would check the steering pump, steering is not to be messed with however
ok, thnx.@@ProfessorDIY
Any time
Hey mate. I have a 2014 golf tsi. When accelerating from stop, there is a very big lag. What could be the cause. It doesn’t feel normal. Thanks.
Start with checking your Air Filter, MAF, and throttle body
I don’t know if you’re still replying but I have a 1999 Toyota Celica and I’m getting nowhere past 3KRPM and I can’t go past 45 before the car starts jerking and starts reducing my not to the point where the cars off but to the point where it forces me back down to 40 or below power, I replace spark, plug, spark wires, fuel pump fuel filter air filter distributor, cap, distributor and nothing what do you think it could be? Sometimes I can get the RPMs to go past 3K when I neutral bomb it or when I’m driving, but the car does not increase in power please HELP!!!! no check engine lights, but on rare occasions, I’ll get misfires last one was in cylinder one please help even just what do you think it could be would help
I always reply. What have you tried so far?
@ I tried changing my spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter, air filter fuel pump, distributor cap and distributor
@@bloopboy994 Check your MAF and throttle body, next the idle control valve
@ I don’t think I have a maf I think it’s called a speed density system something similar to that but replacing my throttle was next (people keep saying it could be my timing belt)
2014 Subaru Impreza WRX. Car is totally fine until i drop to a lower gear & put it under heavy load. As soon as its above probably 5k RPMs it feels like its kicking back & hesistating & there is a big loss in power.. But it doesnt feel like a full on misfire. No codes popping up, either. Got any suggestions?
Also, I did clean my map sensor but it did not help
How old are your spark plugs? Hoe many miles on the engine?
83k miles. Not sure if the spark plugs are original, I actually purchased the car pre-owned at 81k
@@michaelherman3809 For a used car assume they are original, start by replacing spark plugs, it is a maintenance item and a common cause of your symptoms.
Appreciate it! Will have to take it in because of the location of the spark plugs
Sorry that sucks!@@michaelherman3809
Hello i came across your video..and i need to ask a question..hope you can help me figure it out..here goes..
I have a 1997 nissan bluebird u14..am having trouble accelerating whether on flat or uphill..the car would just buffle and vibrate like it want to shut down.
Does it idle well? More information is needed. But checking/cleaning the MAF and ICV is a good start
@@ProfessorDIY idle yes but with delay..or sounding like sputtering..puff,puff that's what am getting whether in park,reverse or drive same problem..its just puff,puff,puff
@@sheniceebanks7661 Fuel filter also a good place to check, how many miles? Last time you tuned it up?
@@ProfessorDIY I change gas pump 2months ago,air and gas filter,leads wire and still its there..my husband also clean the trottle body and the problem persist..the mechanic at this moment I think is just guessing..I changed all he suggested and still....
@@sheniceebanks7661 Throttle position sensor is a strong possibility
I have an Audi rs3 and I’ve noticed on 100 percent throttle it kinda sputters and breaks up. And I have no check engine light . My spark plugs are clean no oil or anything on them . They have around 17 k miles on them. What should I look for?
Your Mass Air Flow and your idle control valve
Clean your MAF and the Air Temp sensor, also is your air filter clean?
@The Trashman Nope ignition coil is fine and it is a TOYOTA
@The Trashman Your comment come under the main video not in reference to another post when I replied to it and there is no reason to be obnoxious
Hello, did you manage to get your issue sorted, I have the same problem with my golf 5 gti, drives well but on a well push acceleration it sputters, if I keep acceleration it really does not have power to accelerate and will read multiple misfire
Crank shaft?
yes?!?
I have a chevy aveo it over revs it self what could be the problem
It is pretty much the same for all naturally aspirated cars, clean your MAF sensor and the throttle body, and lastly clean the idle control valve.
The first sensor is a MAF sensor. What is the second sensor called??
It is the throttle positioning sensor, some vehicles also have an air temperature sensor that is located close to the intake manifold
I don’t know but my Altima 2012 started thrusting everything I push the gas and my rpm keeps making a noise and it goes up and down any help works
Same here when I push the gas, it’ll jerk/buck anytime I push or release the gas pedal.
I would start with cleaning the MAF and throttle body. Then inspect and if needed replace the air filter
I would start with cleaning the MAF and throttle body. Then inspect and if needed replace the air filter
My car it's got high and rough idle when iam accelerate it lost the power its a vw polo bujwa 1.6
from a dead start? when the engine is warm? More information is needed
I have a 2010 toyota corolla. When im stuck in heavy snow and smash the accelerator it will lose power and stop accelerating slowly by itself
Does it have traction control? Does the engine light blink when it happens?
@ProfessorDIY engine light doesn't blink but traction control blinks quick
Hello, my RSX auto is having a problem under acceleration. When under acceleration it will sometimes hesitate. Mostly happens a ton after a startup, but happens randomly too. No check engine light. Can’t tell what’s up. Do you mind pointing me in the right direction?
Make sure PCV Valve is good and snug and in working order helped mine
PCB Valve does not cause the symptoms we are talking about
My hyundai i30 2010 1.6 cutting off the engine while driving & struggling to start
is your engine light on or the car misfires?
The is no engine light the only thing i notice is less power on ecceleration or hesitation
My car stalls immediately after pressing the gas pedal. What caused this?
Can be many things what other symptoms do you have? Does it idle between 800 and 1000 RPM?
@@ProfessorDIY No. This is a perfect example. While I was in traffic the other day, my foot was on the brake and after releasing the brake and hitting the gas pedal the car surges back and forth slightly before moving
Subscribed.
Welcome friend!
My 2014 f150 drives fine but when I go half throttle almost full throttle feels like it’s in limp mode idk what it is
It could be a throtle position switch or even your acceleratoe petal switch, sorry I am not very familiar with FORD vehicles
My car was driving perfect yesterday today it’s going so slow I don’t know why help
What other symptoms does your car have?
Thanks. Same issue. Sorted
Awresome!
My 2004 mazda 3 2.3l cuts out on full throttle some times and then sometimes it’s fine it’s a 5 speed manual and has exhaust so I don’t think my cats clogged but I’m very confused cause there’s no code and it’s cuts out on full throttle but is fine half throttle and normal driving
Make sure you have good exhaust flow it can be a blocked cat
did you ever fix your car? what was it, mine is doing the same. thanks.
@@duaneafields Yes after the MAF and the throttle body were cleaned the car performed much better a final tune-up made it run like new
I fixed my problem it was the maf wiring had to cut open the harness and find it
Also my Mazda kinda stright piped itself so I got no cats but is it normal for it to smoke bluish at high rpm’s
2015 subaru forester, no power until it hits 3k, almost as if it is turbo charged except it isnt.
Sound like air system (ie MAF, air filter) any other symptoms?
Hi, please help
In a hard stop, my car wont go forward till I press the gas pedal to the floor,
in other senario from a parking, I shift it to drive with no pressing the gas pedal, it forwards
but when I shift it to drive with pressing the the gas normally like 10% to 20% it stops till I press it a 100% again then it forwards
[Automatic car]
Changed/Replaced:
-Transmission oil
-Engine oil
-Oil Filter
-Air Filter
-PCV
-IACV
-MAF
-TPS
-O2s
-Spark plugs
-Battery
Cleaned:
-Catalytic
-Exaust
-Throttle body
What else I'll do, I have still the delay acceleration from hard stop. . .Hope this comment will be notice :) :) :)
check the accelerator position switch and clean or replace if needed, also throttle position switch
Check ignition coil and injectors, and change air filter if the hesitation is random then just change the injectors
I should ask did your check light flash on the dashboard at sny time
@@razzalee305 If you mean the check engine light I address that in the video
@@razzalee305 nope the injectors should be the last thing you do
My truck sometimes runs strong and other times it has sluggish acceleration
check/replace your air filter and MAF clean throttle position sensor
My 2005 3.0 Sable ls Duratec engine, had the ac compressor replaced, and after that, is being hesiting and loosing power after 1 hour driving. There's no check engine light on, there's no noise. I changed the spark plugs and coils, air filter, had the oil changed before the compressor was replaced. The car never did any of that before the compressor was changed. What could be causing this,since there's no check engine light on. Anyone, please help..
did you change the alternator or a shop?
It’s very possible that the new compressor is bad and will not spin without more torque than spec. When the clutch engages and your engine goes to start turning it, it hits a wall of resistance causing a jerking. You better have it checked out.
@@CitizenValve yes new does not always mean working and some shops use discounted parts to increase their profit
You should also check the MAF or MAP sensor. Is there any increase in rpms after turning on AC and it remain stable ?
@@awaisiqbal8934 It is unlikely that the MAF or MAP sensor would not cause any other issues
I'm hoping for replies to this also....
I had a coolant leak on my 2017 vw Passat 1.8tsi mk7 so i changed out the thermostat housing and everything seemed ok until the first run...
Firstly the gears would hang in 2nd and 3rd for a lot longer than before (shifts at 4.5rpm rather than around 2.5) then after about 2 miles i goy a stop start error - i don't use that feature so it wouldn't normally bother me but it now displays an EML light now and it won't disappear
I have code scanned it but no fault codes displayed
Battery wasn't disconnected during change of thermostat housing
I've also checked the standing - ignition off / resting voltage is at 12.4v so all good there and the initial Start up spike does not go below 11.2v
I will check the running voltage but everything seems ok with the resting voltage output
Everywhere I've looked says it's the battery but clearly not in this case
Spark plugs have just been changed also
Car doesn't seem to be as responsive as it was before and seems sluggish but climbs the gears ok (apart from 2nd and 3rd)
Everything else works as it should
I've even tried everything switched on but that doesn't affect anything (like flickering lights, dimmed lights etc.) so doesn't seem like it's got a parasitic drain anywhere
Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you all who reply in advance
Your running voltage should be between 13.6 and 14.3 so you may have a bad battery the thermostat change is coincidental
I'm in the U.K and everything I've referred to (Haynes, Auto data etc ) states 12.3v 🤷🏻♂️
@@ProfessorDIYsorry I meant car not running is at 12.4v
@@everton1878able have you tested the basttery under load?
@@everton1878able 12.3V is nominal voltage when the battery is not under load
My 2004 gmc envoy spudders on acceleration for a few seconds. Enough to jerk the vehicle for a brief time. No CEL. What could it be?
Start with the simple first like the air filter and such then Clean the throttle body, MAF sensor, and if not resolved middle control and throttle position sensor
Hello, my car is hesitating between 3-5k rpm i tried replacing the spark plugs, fuel filter , new battery, and i even adjust the distributor timing. My car is Honda Civic Vti (2000) im running out of ideas. Thank you
Thr specific range of RPM would lead me to check the throttle position sensor first
@@ProfessorDIY thank you so much!! I tried it and now the car is running great!
@@nelrellama4943 Glad to be able to help you!
Hi, my automatic 2007 audi a4 quattro 2.0L turbo has acceleration issues. It cranks and starts fine. But intermittently on a flat road it doesn't have power to accelerate when i pressed on gas pedal. When i tried flooring the gas pedal the rpm just goes up to about 4000 before gear shifted. On a light hill it struggles so much. Rpm would just get stucked at 3000 no matter how hard i push the gas pedal. So far i have changed fuel filter, new sparks and coil, maf sensor and cleaned throttle body. I hope it's not the transmission. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Have you checked the throttle position sensor?
Thank you for your reply. I believe for my car the sensor is built in the throttle body assembly. However I do see a sensor similar to the one in your video. Not the MAF but the other one with 2 pins. Is the the TPS? Thanks
@@mark.r8900 yes it is :)
this could be clogged exhaust
@@jamesschmidt1120 Nope, clogged exhaust feels quite different and has symptoms when starting or fiddling as well unlike the scenario we are talking about here
Love video thank you !
Any time
Hey, i got one hell of a problem. My car (2.0 tsi vw passat b7) is reporting a rich mixture both at idle and off idle. When stationary, the revs drop and sometimes even the engine dies. Cold starts are very rough (revs fluctuate anywhere between 500 and 1100ish rpms) but only for 10 to 20 seconds. Odd, right? Now the funny thing is, all of these problems only occur in HOT WEATHER. Yup,only if there are 20 or more celcius degrees. Whenever i drive my car in the winter, mostly sub 10 celcius degrees, my car runs perfectly fine every single time. well..at least the 3 to 4 months while it's cold outside. I have tried fixing the problem for multiple years. Even rebuilt the engine. Changed fuel pump, fuel control module, inspected evap system, pcv valve, spark plugs, ignition coils, Nothing seems to help. However, i did i tiny experiment. I noticed there is way too much air drawn from the pcv valve to the intake manifold. So i added a reduction valve. My idle problems went away (not completly but it's better) but now there is an hesitation when i press the gas pedal when i want to get moving from a stationary position. My theory is that there is something wrong inside the intake manifold and my car tried to compensate for the missing air (probably caused by a stuck valve,flap inside the intake manifold) by drawing too much air from the pcv valve. I don't know..i am completly lost. Any ideas? Sorry for any english mistakes
Based on your symptoms I would suspect a throttle position sensor have you checked it?
@@ProfessorDIY shouldn't be there a cel code?
@@andreisenchiu2391 Not always
@ProfessorDIY so based on my reader the throttle position is 17% when engine is off, 13% at idle and goes to a maximum of 87%. However, if i press the gas pedal when the engine is off, it drops from 17% to 12%. Anything unusual?
@@andreisenchiu2391 Yes your pedal position sensor might be faulty as well.