How to Make an Effective Indicator Nymphing Leader: a simple leader that will get our lies down fast
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- Опубликовано: 12 июл 2024
- This nymphing leader system is a far more effective way of fishing nymphs under an indicator, versus using standard tapered leaders. The thick mono butt section will last a long time. The skinny, disposable fluorocarbon section will get the fly down fast and let us see even the most subtle of takes.
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You should make more Euro nymphing videos, also thanks for all you have done to help me and others with your videos.
Thanks, that was VERY helpful.
Thanks for the video!
Very good. I use a perfection loop at the ed of the leader, then attach the tippet It works well enough but I will try your method. And yes, a clip on Euro nympning would be terrific.best wishes. I fish in quite shallow waters, but with occasional deep pools (greater than one metre).:-). .
Thank you
I wish I would have seen this video sooner, I came to use the same basic system pretty much as you describe after trial and error. Couple things I do a little different which I find a little better. First I put my indicator below the tippet ring. I find that the butt section tends to sink slowly or float and if the indicator is on this section the real-time depth indication is delayed (and if the section below the tippet ring is particularly long having the indicator on the butt could allow slack in the line and missed takes. Learned this the hard way). Second, I find having more level line below the the indicator is a very efficient way to get the nymphs down quick. Many of the streams I fish have short, deep and fast pools. For example if I need a 4' 6X line below the tippet ring, I'll tie 10-12" of 4X to the tippet ring (this is where I put my indicator and make the fine adjustments as you describe) and then tie on 3' of 6X. If I need a 5' 5X line, I still will only tie on 10-12" of 4X (or maybe 3X to lessen the hinge effect) and 4' of 5X.
There's no question that leaders should be built with local waters in mind. A lot of the waters I fish are lower gradient and this design works well where currents aren't too fast. I also add the indicator to a thicker section to prevent sliding. The AirLock indicators are very good for staying in place, but other designs, not so much, or they damage the leader. having a nice, thick mono on the indicator helps keeps things together if the indicator mounting is pinching the mono.
@@hooked4lifeca When I made my comment I was thinking that putting the indicator on the butt section would work fine on slower, longer runs (i.e., lower gradient) where there was time for the nymphs to sink. You give great, practical advice.
Thanks for this Peter and an early Happy Christmas to you! Quick question, would this leader work for wool/yarn indicators as well? I recently acquired a 10' 4wt Scott Radian rod to be used as my daily driver all-rounder rod, but I have been having some difficulty loading the rod at shorter distances (e.g. with no fly line out of the guides). Casting off the tip and loading the rod is not as easy as with my old 10' 3wt Syndicate nymphing rod, a much slower rod for sure, but I really like the accuracy and power of the Scott. First I tried Dave Rothrock's formula [26" .018 20lb Stren, 22" .016 17lb Stren, 16" .014 sighter, 12" .013 12lb Stren, 10" .011 sighter, 8" .009 2x tippet, 8" .008 3x tippet, 8" .007 4x tippet, 36"+/- tippet to flies] but I found it wasn't powerful enough to load my rod when fishing in tight. Today I tried putting a Rio Shorty section above the Rothrock leader, leaving a foot or so of the Shorty out of the guides, and found that the additional heft in the butt allowed me to achieve better load. However I'll probably need to shorten that leader if using it with the Shorty. Ideally I'm looking for a leader formula that is strong enough to turn over small lightweight flies, a yarn/wool or small foam indicator, and possibly some split shot, without having to use that Shorty section. I think it is about 0.025", so perhaps something like 30lb Maxima could substitute. Thanks so much for your advice and your videos, which are a continued source of education and inspiration to me.
That leader will work for you, however, I think your problem is not likely the leader. You don't say if you're trying to roll the cast out or overhead cast it. Going from a slow rod to a fast rod can result in some bouncing on the overhead backcast if we don't adjust how we cast. Bouncing can completely kill the cast.
I don't know that Syndicate rod, but if it is slow and heavy, it will self load without fly line out of the guides. I have an old trout rod like that which will smoothly cast just the leader, thanks to the mass of the rod itself providing the load. When we switch over to a faster, lighter rod, it no longer self-loads and it won't cast the leader easily without adjusting our casting.
Good we'll done
Thanks Peter, very interesting...any info on nymphing for still waters?
I don't use that technique, so I'd suggest you check out Brian Chan as he covers stillwater fly fishing very well.
Thank you for this video, super helpful as I begin dabbling in indicator nymphing. Just curious, 30lb mono for the butt section...is that appropriate for a 5wt line? I normally use the scientific anglers frequency boost line (5wt) which is a half size up. Seems like 20lb maxima had a hard time turning over my Oros indicator, especially while roll casting (I was casting from shore in thick brush on a smaller stream last outing). But I didn't want to bump up to 30lb because I thought that might be too heavy for the 5wt line. 20lb is definitely enough for dries and even some small streamers. Should I give the 30lb a go simply because of the indicator on the line?
Appreciate your content!
30 lb. mono should be no problem at all for your 5 wt. and your turnover issues should diminish with it.
@@hooked4lifeca Makes sense. The 30lb seems pretty stiff but I'll give it a shot this weekend. Thanks for the reply!
Just watched the video on indicator nymph leader fishing. Can I add a second fly to that leader and where would I do that? Your videos are awesome keep them coming!
In this example, add a second tippet ring off of the end of the 4X and tie a dropper fly at that point. The point fly would be attached to a long length of 5X or 6X and the dropper fly attached to a much shorter piece.
@@hooked4lifeca so to understand, the second tippet ring will have three knots on it. a knot from the 4x, a knot to the dropper, and a knot to the point fly. is this correct?
@@ligershark yup
Excellent tutorial. What is the total length of this leader?
It varies according to the depth of the water.
Could you also use this for dry fly? Without the indicator of course. At the tippet rig just add mono tippet instead of fluorocarbon? Get video also. I’ll check out the rest
No, we reverse this for dries: mono leader with fluorocarbon tippet. See this: ruclips.net/video/1L5KQZJzMcY/видео.html
Hi Peter its James from the uk, you ever thought of doing a few videos on stillwater fly fishinh ?
I do occasionally when fishing for bass and panfish, but there's not much in the way of stillwater trout fishing around here unless I go to a club facility, so not much opportunity for videos.
Is it reasonable to use heavy indicator on mid-flex action 6 wt fly rod? Will it cast properly?
Short answer, yes. At short ranges, it's more about how we cast it and set up the rig, than anything else.
Hello, what fly line do you use? Euro line , Double taper or weight forward? thanks
I've used all three with contact nymphing, but weight forward only when using an indicator. DT lines usually don't have the blunt tapers that purpose designed nymph lines have, that make turnover of the rig much easier. If a DT is all we have it can work, it's just that short tapered WF lines work better.
Nympho followthe leader
Why wouldn't you eliminate the 4x and just go 6x from the tippet ring? Nice video. So many overcomplicated leaders out here.
You could, but I make a two piece tippet section for three reasons.
1: The knot provides a spot for split shot that prevents it from sliding down to the fly.
2: if we snag up, we are at risk of only losing a short piece of 6X instead of the entire thing.
3: The knot to the tippet ring is more likely to break than the fly knot, probably due to roughness of the tippet ring. By using 4X on the tippet ring, we significantly reduce the chance that the line will break at that knot.
Thanks. Don't tie 5X or smaller to ring. Got it.
why not just use a nylon tapered leader? cut off a couple feet, tie in the tippet ring and add the fluoro?
We can, but they're not cheap and if we don't have the right type of indicator, it can slip on the tapered section of the leader. It's just better to make our own.
No leader can get my lies down..