After soundproofing my home theater, I’ve learned the holes in the electrical boxes and under doors and around the gaps of doors are the most critical areas to fix. The room needs to be air tight as any hole letting air out is where the sound will go out. The clay pads around the electrical boxes are the way to go MLV is such a pain to work with. It is so heavy and limp. The two roll I bought was 200 lbs each or 400 lbs. it’s Expensive to ship and a 12 foot by 3 foot piece took 4 people to lift and hold in place. One great thing I did was run a 2” electrical pipe from the audio/video rack area to the TV. Now that HDMI 2.2 is out, I can easily replace the 20 foot HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV.
If you are building a double wall assembly the first rule is to NOT place drywall between the two walls as the intermediate layer of drywall acts like a drum skin repeating the vibrations onto the other side. It is called a drum effect. If you look through all the STC tested wall assemblies you will notice that none of them have a drywall layer between the two walls, this is because it does not work, it actually makes the wall less effective . The drum effect would be more evident with low frequency noise.
OSB is a much better sound AND temperature insulator than drywall, and doesn't cost much more. An added plus is being able to hang pictures and things with needing tiger anchors. And no "drum effect".
@@SteamvilleQuintetyeah I’m going to buy OSB panels, attach them to my drywall and then luxury wood panels over that. Won’t be as good as building a 2nd wall, but it also won’t shrink my room by much and it’s still good soundproofing
@@Antonnn1111 It should work right well. Do a study though on the possibility of moisture / dampness / mold growing between the OSB and drywall, as you'll have no airspace for evaporation. Even a 1/2 or 3/4 inch airspace might be in order. Best to you! Oh, in my opinion, OSB has an insulation R factor of around 9, and yes, I'm old now - I was a carpenter.
Nice vid. What would you recommend to drown out traffic noise in a loft conversion where weight of materials is a factor? I was thinking of adding soundproof drywall to the existing drywall but now thinking about replacing existing drywall with soundproof drywall for weight's sake.
I would love to have a video done on the sound qualities of a hempcrete building. There are a couple ways they are framed. One common way is to frame a double wall and infill the wall.
Fill the gaps, dont use rockwool or heavy insulation, use light weight "pink fluffy" insulation. (The cheap stuff) And dont have a layer of plaster in the middle, only on the 2 outside faces of the wall, a layer of the plaster in the middle will lower the isolation.
Any advice for a set of double hollow core doors leading to my recording studio? Trying to heavily muffle my voice/sounds coming out. I was thinking of replacing one door with a new wall and the other door with a solid core doors.
For an existing wall with standard 1/2-inch drywall, if the goal is to eliminate vibrations from a neighbor’s HVAC system, would adding mass-loaded vinyl (MLV), a layer of Sonopan, acoustic clips with furring channels (as resilient channels are prone to malfunction), and 5/8-inch drywall be the most effective solution, assuming building a second wall is not an option?
I can’t afford rockwool or other expensive insulation, so my solution was to buy 5/8” plywood to put directly on the frame, and 1/2” drywall on top of the plywood. The double wall is an inch apart and the wall is built with standard 2x4’s. Is this just as good?
Where I live (SE Pennsylvania) you can get R13 fiberglass for around 50 cents a square foot. That's 24 bucks for a 4x8 area. The 5/8 plywood would be a lot more than that. The plywood is probably better soundproofing due to its mass.
I’m trying to survive by renting out a bedroom, that shares a wall with my bedroom. I don’t know if my ex-husband is going to be up for this big of a project but hopefully because he’s wanting to help me survive on my own lol and rinsing out a room definitely helps 😅
Hello, i cant find a video telling me how to soundproof my noise from leaving through my ceiling. I dont want the room above me to hear me. The way my ceiling is structured in the room under is ceiling tiles then above it is the wood floor. The dont hear alot. They can hear me talk thoe if everyone quiet so its a issue at night. Plz help me out with some advice.
Hey there! Do you offer consultation services? I appreciate that your soundproofing solutions are accessible in both cost and execution. I'm looking to make some adjustments to a rental apartment with some odd quirks and would love to talk to you one on one. Let me know!
@@michaelcummins5974 oh haha makes sense, but what about the space in between each door? how should I cover that? or it should always be a bit shy of just touching?
Think of double walls like a room within a room. The ideal scenario for total soundproofing (extreme studio setup for example), would be a room like a foot inside the larger room walls, ceiling, and decoupled from the floor. Totally isolated. That's extreme, but in a double wall, you would ideally have a door in each wall assembly, each air sealed etc. One swinging out and one swinging in, so not really close to each other at all, and you would leave the gap between the walls at the door opening uncoupled, just covered with insulation board and a fabric or something.
OSB is a much better sound AND temperature insulator than drywall, and doesn't cost much more. An added plus is being able to hang pictures and things with needing tiger anchors.
Extremely hard to do. Requires addressing gaps with acoustic sealing, weatherstripping, etc when the wall/door is being constructed. And sealing up the gaps can affect the door's function.
I could be mistaken, but from a fire fighting perspective, I believe that space between the walls will aid in a faster spread of fire? Also may not meet building/ insurance codes in certain areas?
Flammable materials, like standard drywall or certain types of insulation, can allow a fire to spread more quickly. To reduce this risk, ensure all gaps are sealed with fire-rated caulk, avoid using highly combustible materials, and consider adding fire blocks within the cavity. While not ideal, these measures can improve safety, but using fire-resistant materials is always the best practice. Building a double wall or a staggered stud wall is nothing new. This method has been used in many constructions.
The construction shown as exactly how they build apartment buildings. Well minus the good insulation. So no, it doesn't help with the spread of fire. If it did code would not allow it and apartment buildings wouldn't be built this way
@@richardpellis I've seen it done in condos. They used drywall on the inside and metal studs. The drywall on the inside is supposed to be worse than no drywall from a noise perspective. The way these walls are sealed at the top and bottom makes me less worried about fire. By the time it gets in between those walls, the house is toast anyway.
Code absolutely allows for double walls. They are common in modern ultra-efficient and "Passive House" construction. They are great for sound insulation and thermal insulation.
Better be careful about creating a new unconditioned space, meaning no heat or ac managing it. You could run the risk of a mold sandwich if there isn't proper ventialtion/moisture mitigation in place.
it’s a wall on the interior of your home It won’t mold any more than all the other interior walls Most interior walls are just studs and drywall, no insulation or anything
just used RC on my latest build and it sucks. it does not lower footfall sound to the point of it not being a problem. the only good solution is to build a double ceiling, like a double wall but on the ceiling. thats what im going to do on my next build.
If the drywall screws that you use to attach the drywall to the RC go into the joists that the RC is attached to, then it doesn’t work. You have to make sure that those screws just go into the RC and no further. Otherwise you are connecting the drywall to the joists and it defeats the purpose of the RC
I would be concerned with this assembly in fairly cold and/or fairly humid environments, because you might be creating areas where moisture could get trapped. I'm not saying its bad; it's just not something I'd do myself without consulting someone about vapor and air barriers.
Sound moves unrestricted through air. The gap is to decouple the two hard surfaces. Filling the gap with sound absorption material is definitely more effective than leaving the gap filled with air.
Nothing like adding a second wall to a finished home, come on! What happens to your window(s) surround? Electrical? Unless this is a new construction this is a NO. Second option with double sheets of drywall makes more sense. 3rd option, again unless you are building new or gutting, no go.
American framing have disadvantage from the start. Light sheeting floor, airgaps everywhere.floorsyll directly naild to osb floor - lightweight wall isolation. Different density dampens different frequency. Mdf + gips sheet . Ceiling sheets screwed to flimsy beams ,non isolated .... Just enough screws to not fall down, your standard would be a scam in northern europe.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
After soundproofing my home theater, I’ve learned the holes in the electrical boxes and under doors and around the gaps of doors are the most critical areas to fix. The room needs to be air tight as any hole letting air out is where the sound will go out. The clay pads around the electrical boxes are the way to go
MLV is such a pain to work with. It is so heavy and limp. The two roll I bought was 200 lbs each or 400 lbs. it’s Expensive to ship and a 12 foot by 3 foot piece took 4 people to lift and hold in place.
One great thing I did was run a 2” electrical pipe from the audio/video rack area to the TV. Now that HDMI 2.2 is out, I can easily replace the 20 foot HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV.
If you are building a double wall assembly the first rule is to NOT place drywall between the two walls as the intermediate layer of drywall acts like a drum skin repeating the vibrations onto the other side. It is called a drum effect. If you look through all the STC tested wall assemblies you will notice that none of them have a drywall layer between the two walls, this is because it does not work, it actually makes the wall less effective . The drum effect would be more evident with low frequency noise.
OSB is a much better sound AND temperature insulator than drywall, and doesn't cost much more.
An added plus is being able to hang pictures and things with needing tiger anchors. And no "drum effect".
@@SteamvilleQuintetyeah I’m going to buy OSB panels, attach them to my drywall and then luxury wood panels over that. Won’t be as good as building a 2nd wall, but it also won’t shrink my room by much and it’s still good soundproofing
@@Antonnn1111 It should work right well. Do a study though on the possibility of moisture / dampness / mold growing between the OSB and drywall, as you'll have no airspace for evaporation. Even a 1/2 or 3/4 inch airspace might be in order. Best to you! Oh, in my opinion, OSB has an insulation R factor of around 9, and yes, I'm old now - I was a carpenter.
@@SteamvilleQuintet There is no way that OSB is R9.
@incognitotorpedo42 < Back up your bull, publish the R value and decibel reduction per thickness.
Floor vibrations will connect the two walls- put something-acoustical caulk etc under base plate(s)
Nice vid.
What would you recommend to drown out traffic noise in a loft conversion where weight of materials is a factor?
I was thinking of adding soundproof drywall to the existing drywall but now thinking about replacing existing drywall with soundproof drywall for weight's sake.
I would love to have a video done on the sound qualities of a hempcrete building. There are a couple ways they are framed. One common way is to frame a double wall and infill the wall.
Would closed cell spray foam work with building another wall?
Fill the gaps, dont use rockwool or heavy insulation, use light weight "pink fluffy" insulation. (The cheap stuff)
And dont have a layer of plaster in the middle, only on the 2 outside faces of the wall, a layer of the plaster in the middle will lower the isolation.
Why not mineral wool? Doesn't it absorb more sound than fiberglass?
Im not sure about this, because fire thrives on air, and extra insulation like rockwool could help slow that, right?
Any advice for a set of double hollow core doors leading to my recording studio? Trying to heavily muffle my voice/sounds coming out. I was thinking of replacing one door with a new wall and the other door with a solid core doors.
For an existing wall with standard 1/2-inch drywall, if the goal is to eliminate vibrations from a neighbor’s HVAC system, would adding mass-loaded vinyl (MLV), a layer of Sonopan, acoustic clips with furring channels (as resilient channels are prone to malfunction), and 5/8-inch drywall be the most effective solution, assuming building a second wall is not an option?
I can’t afford rockwool or other expensive insulation, so my solution was to buy 5/8” plywood to put directly on the frame, and 1/2” drywall on top of the plywood. The double wall is an inch apart and the wall is built with standard 2x4’s. Is this just as good?
Where I live (SE Pennsylvania) you can get R13 fiberglass for around 50 cents a square foot. That's 24 bucks for a 4x8 area. The 5/8 plywood would be a lot more than that. The plywood is probably better soundproofing due to its mass.
Would rubberized waterproof sealant help soundproof? That stuff you paint on.
Yes
I’m trying to survive by renting out a bedroom, that shares a wall with my bedroom. I don’t know if my ex-husband is going to be up for this big of a project but hopefully because he’s wanting to help me survive on my own lol and rinsing out a room definitely helps 😅
What is your opinion on these concrete domes or concrete cube tiny homes in order to block outside low-frequency noise to come in?
Well, there's a lot of mass there, so it will probably block noise pretty well. You couldn't pay me to live in a dome, though.
Will not taking out the drywall in the existing wall create a triple leaf effect?
@@joshledda1245 yes it does, he cut the effectiveness of the system in half with that big mistake.
Hello, i cant find a video telling me how to soundproof my noise from leaving through my ceiling. I dont want the room above me to hear me. The way my ceiling is structured in the room under is ceiling tiles then above it is the wood floor. The dont hear alot. They can hear me talk thoe if everyone quiet so its a issue at night. Plz help me out with some advice.
Hey there! Do you offer consultation services? I appreciate that your soundproofing solutions are accessible in both cost and execution. I'm looking to make some adjustments to a rental apartment with some odd quirks and would love to talk to you one on one. Let me know!
Yes I do! I’d be happy to help! You can join my comprehensive membership.
don't double walls eventually have to meet at an entrance? What is the approach for that?
Ideally, double doors
@@michaelcummins5974 oh haha makes sense, but what about the space in between each door? how should I cover that? or it should always be a bit shy of just touching?
Think of double walls like a room within a room. The ideal scenario for total soundproofing (extreme studio setup for example), would be a room like a foot inside the larger room walls, ceiling, and decoupled from the floor. Totally isolated.
That's extreme, but in a double wall, you would ideally have a door in each wall assembly, each air sealed etc. One swinging out and one swinging in, so not really close to each other at all, and you would leave the gap between the walls at the door opening uncoupled, just covered with insulation board and a fabric or something.
OSB is a much better sound AND temperature insulator than drywall, and doesn't cost much more.
An added plus is being able to hang pictures and things with needing tiger anchors.
How do you sound proof a pocket door?
The only option is a solid core door.
@ Not enough. If you have air gaps, doesn’t matter if you have a concrete door and sound will still go right through the gaps.
Extremely hard to do. Requires addressing gaps with acoustic sealing, weatherstripping, etc when the wall/door is being constructed. And sealing up the gaps can affect the door's function.
I would be very surprised if you could build-in 50dBA of extra noise isolation in this manner!
I could be mistaken, but from a fire fighting perspective, I believe that space between the walls will aid in a faster spread of fire? Also may not meet building/ insurance codes in certain areas?
exactly, this guy is clueless about construction. Just doing it for clicks. welcome to social media 2024
Flammable materials, like standard drywall or certain types of insulation, can allow a fire to spread more quickly.
To reduce this risk, ensure all gaps are sealed with fire-rated caulk, avoid using highly combustible materials, and consider adding fire blocks within the cavity. While not ideal, these measures can improve safety, but using fire-resistant materials is always the best practice.
Building a double wall or a staggered stud wall is nothing new. This method has been used in many constructions.
The construction shown as exactly how they build apartment buildings. Well minus the good insulation. So no, it doesn't help with the spread of fire. If it did code would not allow it and apartment buildings wouldn't be built this way
@@richardpellis I've seen it done in condos. They used drywall on the inside and metal studs. The drywall on the inside is supposed to be worse than no drywall from a noise perspective. The way these walls are sealed at the top and bottom makes me less worried about fire. By the time it gets in between those walls, the house is toast anyway.
Code absolutely allows for double walls. They are common in modern ultra-efficient and "Passive House" construction. They are great for sound insulation and thermal insulation.
i'd pull a vacuum between the walls. A no air gap! Costly, but no one can hear you scream in space!
You definitely do not want to leave that drywall and create a triple leaf assembly. At minimum, cut a couple large holes in each bay.
Better be careful about creating a new unconditioned space, meaning no heat or ac managing it. You could run the risk of a mold sandwich if there isn't proper ventialtion/moisture mitigation in place.
it’s a wall on the interior of your home
It won’t mold any more than all the other interior walls
Most interior walls are just studs and drywall, no insulation or anything
just used RC on my latest build and it sucks. it does not lower footfall sound to the point of it not being a problem. the only good solution is to build a double ceiling, like a double wall but on the ceiling. thats what im going to do on my next build.
If the drywall screws that you use to attach the drywall to the RC go into the joists that the RC is attached to, then it doesn’t work. You have to make sure that those screws just go into the RC and no further. Otherwise you are connecting the drywall to the joists and it defeats the purpose of the RC
@ the screws never went into the joists. i checked all of them
I would be concerned with this assembly in fairly cold and/or fairly humid environments, because you might be creating areas where moisture could get trapped. I'm not saying its bad; it's just not something I'd do myself without consulting someone about vapor and air barriers.
you on bluesky?
I’m not.
Sound moves unrestricted through air. The gap is to decouple the two hard surfaces. Filling the gap with sound absorption material is definitely more effective than leaving the gap filled with air.
Nothing like adding a second wall to a finished home, come on! What happens to your window(s) surround? Electrical? Unless this is a new construction this is a NO. Second option with double sheets of drywall makes more sense. 3rd option, again unless you are building new or gutting, no go.
American framing have disadvantage from the start. Light sheeting floor, airgaps everywhere.floorsyll directly naild to osb floor - lightweight wall isolation. Different density dampens different frequency. Mdf + gips sheet .
Ceiling sheets screwed to flimsy beams ,non isolated ....
Just enough screws to not fall down, your standard would be a scam in northern europe.
So funny we are in 2024 and the tips are like from 60 years ago…..
Not much has changed in what works!
Acoustics physics does not change. Isolation. Damping. Blocking holes.