I adore my layens hive. My bees have never been happier and healthier. I've done no treatment to them for 3 years going into 4 years. They are happy all year around and warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
I have converted half of my frames from horizontal to vertical. I’ve made a few with one dowel and a few with two dowels. The vertical dowels work great especially at the Honey end when you have such weight, especially here with warmer summers. you still need to coat the rods with wax to help the bees build off of them better.
I am a second season Layens hive beekeeper in Central New Hampshire. I also tend 3 Langstroth hives for a friend. Like you, I am older and have no desire to lift heavy boxes. It gets kinda' cold here in winter and bees don't fly for 3 to 4 months in winter. Not too many top bar hives around here. I do think it would be very educational to attend Dr. Leo's seminar. I believe his way of beekeeping is something that not everyone can do due to their proximity to other non-natural beekeepers. Thanks for sharing. Peace
Thanks for the comments. I’m in zone six and that seems to be a perfect area for top bars usually not extremely hot or cold they’ve always seem to do well and winter fine. Do you use foundation less frames? Also do they build pretty straight and even comb all the way down the frame? This will be my first winter, I’m in the learning process frame alignment and honey stores for winter.
@@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 zone 4-5 here depending on the bottom or the top of the hill.. Being a second season beekeeper, I am no expert. I have a mix of wax foundation, foundation less, and bettercomb to get swarms and splits going. Having the hive level and the frames plumb and no wonky comb to follow the bees seem to do pretty good, although on most frames the bees stopped short of the bottom bar.
I imagine in a hotter climate the unsupported built-down wax on a top bar can get too soft and detach more easily than it would in a frame. I did worry with the speed at which you upped or downed your layens frames, that you would roll bees. To get bees to "go down" so you won't pinch them, I think Dr. Leo smokes them briefly... Your presentation style is so mellow and conversational without fluff or puff. Such an enjoyable and enlightening comparison. Happy Beekeeping and God bless you too! New sub.
Thank you for the comments. You are right I am still in the learning process of manipulating layens frames. If you’re a beekeeper I hope you had a good year in the bee yard.
ruclips.net/video/qoxQRTkzIY4/видео.htmlsi=-WSh8pYlngPY275T this was episode number 79 Honey press. Since I’m not a commercial beekeeper, I wanted to keep it as simple as possible for Honey for family and friends. Thanks for the comments.
I'm just completing my Layens hive frames and instead of the top soulder on each side coming down from the top bar, where you're concerned about squishing bees, I've dispensed with those and placed a couple of inch/inch and a half angle champered buttons at the bottom of the frame, so when you lower them there is clear space between to obviate squishing. Also, when pushing them together at the top the lack of shoulder stops the potencial for squishing apart from the care of closing together the top bar itself. The minimal bottom buttons keep the frames vertically spaced in line with the top bar and not subject to creating any bee squished slight angle to be gummed up with propolis. An thoughts?
That sounds very interesting. I’m trying to envision how the buttons are. Are they laid vertically or horizontally? When I built my frames instead of making the sides 3/8 to a half inch I left them the 3/4 size of the one by twos to make it easier and I also thought stronger. I’m getting better at not squishing them but if I built a new hive I would like to try something else. I’d like to know how it goes with it this year for your new hive.
Thank you.I have learned the Bees knowledge seems to always be better than mine. You’ve got me on this one I’ve never heard of a colony keeper. What is it?
@@bradbrown2168 that looks like a combination of all the hive styles. It would definitely challenge my woodworking skills. Watching the guy go through it to me that would be the hardest part, working the hive. It is an interesting concept. For my little bit of experience, working mostly with the top bars layens and helping others with Langstrath hives, they all have their ups and downs. I do like hives that only open only a small amount of the hive at a time.
@@MagicBeans.StarlightDreams I am in southern Illinois zone six. The top bars do great in this area because not extremely hot or extremely cold. I have heard people talking about top bars in the colder climates and they say they don’t do very well. They believe it’s because they don’t move horizontally as easy as going vertical in a Langstroth style hive. I do not know if that’s true or not. I do believe a layens style hive might work better for you because the frames are so much deeper. Also, most of those hives can be insulated between the walls. In my area, I have both and I like them so much more than lifting heavy boxes.
@@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 I live outside Nashville and this afternoon I will be checking my hives to see if they are ready for the honey to be harvested. I am concerned they may need another week since it has been a hot humid summer.
Inside dimensions of frame are 32 centimeters wide and almost 36 cm tall. I did build my frames a little bit different in size but the volume is close I believe to Dr. Leo’s dimensions. My frames are a little thicker because it was easier for me to use 3/4” x1 1/2” lumber to put it together. it saved a lot of sawing etc. I do not have a full working wood-shop. Thanks
I’ve never really had any problems with stability in the brood section of the hive. So I myself would not put them there. But this past winter, I was watching a guy in Australia, and he had one vertical dowel rod in the center of the top bar frames. I am going to try this on a few bars on the honey end frames to see how they work. I have had almost 2 inch comb on inch and a half bars. They can get pretty heavy and break easily.
I adore my layens hive. My bees have never been happier and healthier. I've done no treatment to them for 3 years going into 4 years. They are happy all year around and warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
I do agree. My two layens hives Always seem to stay strong and healthy.
The vertical dowel is a very interesting idea.
I have converted half of my frames from horizontal to vertical. I’ve made a few with one dowel and a few with two dowels. The vertical dowels work great especially at the Honey end when you have such weight, especially here with warmer summers. you still need to coat the rods with wax to help the bees build off of them better.
I am a second season Layens hive beekeeper in Central New Hampshire. I also tend 3 Langstroth hives for a friend. Like you, I am older and have no desire to lift heavy boxes. It gets kinda' cold here in winter and bees don't fly for 3 to 4 months in winter. Not too many top bar hives around here. I do think it would be very educational to attend Dr. Leo's seminar. I believe his way of beekeeping is something that not everyone can do due to their proximity to other non-natural beekeepers. Thanks for sharing. Peace
Thanks for the comments. I’m in zone six and that seems to be a perfect area for top bars usually not extremely hot or cold they’ve always seem to do well and winter fine. Do you use foundation less frames? Also do they build pretty straight and even comb all the way down the frame? This will be my first winter, I’m in the learning process frame alignment and honey stores for winter.
@@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 zone 4-5 here depending on the bottom or the top of the hill.. Being a second season beekeeper, I am no expert. I have a mix of wax foundation, foundation less, and bettercomb to get swarms and splits going. Having the hive level and the frames plumb and no wonky comb to follow the bees seem to do pretty good, although on most frames the bees stopped short of the bottom bar.
At 3:22 it seems as if you can see a hatched queen-cell at the left -middle edge of the comb... so the might have swarmed...
Dang, you’ve got a good eye. I missed that during inspection. Are you also a good queen spotter? That is one thing I would still like to master.
Queen Spotting by Hilary Kearney helped me a lot...
I imagine in a hotter climate the unsupported built-down wax on a top bar can get too soft and detach more easily than it would in a frame. I did worry with the speed at which you upped or downed your layens frames, that you would roll bees. To get bees to "go down" so you won't pinch them, I think Dr. Leo smokes them briefly... Your presentation style is so mellow and conversational without fluff or puff. Such an enjoyable and enlightening comparison. Happy Beekeeping and God bless you too! New sub.
Thank you for the comments. You are right I am still in the learning process of manipulating layens frames. If you’re a beekeeper I hope you had a good year in the bee yard.
Wire your frames. That will relieve the detaching
I think Michael Bush said; if there's an area that the bees can't get to but things like hive beetles can hide in. Then they'll propolise it off.
That makes sense thanks for the comment.
These fascinate me, but how do you address honey extraction? Do you have a video?
ruclips.net/video/qoxQRTkzIY4/видео.htmlsi=-WSh8pYlngPY275T this was episode number 79 Honey press. Since I’m not a commercial beekeeper, I wanted to keep it as simple as possible for Honey for family and friends. Thanks for the comments.
I'm just completing my Layens hive frames and instead of the top soulder on each side coming down from the top bar, where you're concerned about squishing bees, I've dispensed with those and placed a couple of inch/inch and a half angle champered buttons at the bottom of the frame, so when you lower them there is clear space between to obviate squishing. Also, when pushing them together at the top the lack of shoulder stops the potencial for squishing apart from the care of closing together the top bar itself. The minimal bottom buttons keep the frames vertically spaced in line with the top bar and not subject to creating any bee squished slight angle to be gummed up with propolis. An thoughts?
That sounds very interesting. I’m trying to envision how the buttons are. Are they laid vertically or horizontally? When I built my frames instead of making the sides 3/8 to a half inch I left them the 3/4 size of the one by twos to make it easier and I also thought stronger. I’m getting better at not squishing them but if I built a new hive I would like to try something else. I’d like to know how it goes with it this year for your new hive.
@@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 I also would like to understand better about commenter's "buttons", how they work to space frames.
I appreciate your knowledge. I’m considering building a Colony keeper. Thoughts on it?
Thank you.I have learned the Bees knowledge seems to always be better than mine. You’ve got me on this one I’ve never heard of a colony keeper. What is it?
@@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 RUclips Colony Keeper
@@bradbrown2168 that looks like a combination of all the hive styles. It would definitely challenge my woodworking skills. Watching the guy go through it to me that would be the hardest part, working the hive. It is an interesting concept. For my little bit of experience, working mostly with the top bars layens and helping others with Langstrath hives, they all have their ups and downs. I do like hives that only open only a small amount of the hive at a time.
User a spacer , that you take out first then you are not sliding in the frames squishing bees.
Buenas noches, cuáles son las medidas óptimas de los cajones Kenia
Sorry I do not understand the question with the google translation.
On your TBH how well do they winter? Im zone 4/5
@@MagicBeans.StarlightDreams I am in southern Illinois zone six. The top bars do great in this area because not extremely hot or extremely cold. I have heard people talking about top bars in the colder climates and they say they don’t do very well. They believe it’s because they don’t move horizontally as easy as going vertical in a Langstroth style hive. I do not know if that’s true or not. I do believe a layens style hive might work better for you because the frames are so much deeper. Also, most of those hives can be insulated between the walls. In my area, I have both and I like them so much more than lifting heavy boxes.
@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 thank you! I haven't found anyone around here who has horizontal hives. I have a layens... insulated... love it.
What part of the country is your bee yard?
Southern Illinois.
@@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 Thanks. I was wondering why your bees have not dried and capped their honey yet.
@@Michael-yl2iq For some reason this year it has taken the bees a little longer to get there honey capped. I’m assuming a lot of heat and humidity?
@@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 I live outside Nashville and this afternoon I will be checking my hives to see if they are ready for the honey to be harvested. I am concerned they may need another week since it has been a hot humid summer.
looks just like hinterland outside of Detroit@@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107
Hello. I wish you success. Can you give the frame interior dimensions in cm. It seems shorter than Layens. Thanks
Inside dimensions of frame are 32 centimeters wide and almost 36 cm tall. I did build my frames a little bit different in size but the volume is close I believe to Dr. Leo’s dimensions. My frames are a little thicker because it was easier for me to use 3/4” x1 1/2” lumber to put it together. it saved a lot of sawing etc. I do not have a full working wood-shop. Thanks
How bout 2 dowell rods verticals for a little more stability. For top bar style.
I’ve never really had any problems with stability in the brood section of the hive. So I myself would not put them there. But this past winter, I was watching a guy in Australia, and he had one vertical dowel rod in the center of the top bar frames. I am going to try this on a few bars on the honey end frames to see how they work. I have had almost 2 inch comb on inch and a half bars. They can get pretty heavy and break easily.
What’s your smoke?
Pine needles, easy to find around here and they work pretty good.