How to Replace a Hydraulic Brake Line | Shimano XT M8000
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Eddie shows how to replace a rear brake line for a Shimano XT M8000 brake set. He shows how to fill and flush hydraulic brakes with new brake fluid and how to install new brake pads.
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This video should be considered for entertainment purposes only, any action you take based on the content of this video is strictly "at your own risk".
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I would recommend one of those cutter/pin insertion tools for the brake line. Makes a much cleaner cut than housing cutters.
Thanks for the tip! -Eddie
This is very clear English. He speaks standard accent, mechanical part name and knowledges.
I can inderstand almost all speakings very clearly. This is excellent.
Thanks! -Eddie
Thank you for your content. It helps a lot👐🏽
You're so welcome! -Eddie
Hi, i would like to extend my hydraulic brake lines on my ebike, do you have a video on how to do that ?
I don't have a video to do that - but there are ways to do this with inline splices. -Eddie
I forgot to add that it helps to put dish soap or mineral oil on the barb before insertion.
Also great tip! Thanks! -Eddie
Waow, working on Hydraulic Brakes is so much easier than any rim brakes.
Yes they are! -Eddie
Take a tapered centering punch and insert it in the cut end to "round out" the liner.
Great tip! -Eddie
For reals. Dude explains how to remove the rear tire, but not what was going on there?
Good video thanks! I reviewed the entire RUclips and did not understand why there are 3 o-ring in the set... WHY?After all, you only need 2 o-ring.Or am I wrong?
I think it's like Lego - they give you extra pieces... 😀 -Eddie
can you post same process on internal frame mountain bike please sir ?
Interesting - I don't have a bike that has internally routed hydraulic brakes. I will definitely do one if I ever have a bike like that, though! -Eddie
...likely already commented but you cut it with "cable cutters" not housing cutters. Housing cutters are typically tools w a very sharp angled razor that wont crimp the housing as your cutters did and the ensure a more square cut.
No one's commented that yet. I appreciate the tip. Been using cable cutters for years! Now I need some housing cutters. Thanks! -Eddie
I'm changing my sram hoses(Dot fluid). I've been looking for a video to find if I can push the fluid thru the line & evacuate the air thru the lever. Finally, I found your video. I wasn't sure if the air would go thru the lever or if I had to charge the hose before connecting to the lever. Thank you.
I'm super glad you found this helpful! -Eddie
Very helpful. Thanks!
You are welcome! -Eddie
Well heck now I know what the olive and barb are and how to set them I’m going to hopefully fix my back brakes
Glad to help! -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking lol and I screwed it all up so I have to buy new calipers and brake lines no biggie it was worth the try but it’s nice to know the names in stead of that copperish gold thingys lol but I do got a question about throttles I have a thumb throttle on my c93 emoko dual motor very fast and nice e-bike/dirt bike is how they labeled it but while trying to put the ends in I broke a prong on the inside of the male piece can I use my old hit way bk10 twist throttle or my lame slow euy that’s pretty much in my book scrap and for only spare parts can I use any one of them their twist throttle in stead of thumb
How easy is it to switch brakes with hydraulic lines, my bike turned up in the UK with front brake lever on the left hand side and not the right
Super easy! You'll need to bleed the system and route the lines opposite. You should have enough line length to do this. Good luck! -Eddie
Thank you!
You are welcome! -Eddie
Hi, you don't find it difficult to insert the barb after cutting the hose using Park Tool CN-10?
Not at all. The CN-10 crimps it only a little bit. -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking Intresting, because I couldn't do that, after I tried few times I've got the same result, the plastic tube inside the hose is squashed after cutting it with CN-10. Am I missing something? 🤔
Cheers.
@@FlorinSirbu. The only thing I can think of is perhaps your cutters are dull and crush more than cut? The CN-10 is designed to be a scissor-cut, which is what's recommended for these type hoses. Let me know what you figure out! -Eddie
Thank you
Welcome! -Eddie
Thanks : )
You are welcome. -Eddie
You forgot to insert new oring
For the cap? -Eddie
A lot of extra steps that I think aren’t too necessary
Thank you for your feedback. -Eddie
Think you went a bit ott with the likes of removing the wheel, totally unnecessary to describe your position, loosing the wheel etc, you include everything except how you cook a dinner
Removing the wheel is so easy to do - and it allows free access to all angles of the caliper. If it takes seconds to remove, I go ahead and do it to make my life easier. This is the same when I work on other things too. -Eddie
How many times I had my syringe disconnect and oil fell and mashing my head on the handlebar 😅spilling the oil everywhere lmao. Yup, it takes 10 seconds to remove.
I guess I missed the part dealing with the brake fluid in the lines.
Draining it out? -Eddie
@@SimplyMountainBiking yes
You could just remove old hose completely, and then run both new and old hoses between your fingers from one end to the other, to get the measurement. This way, you won't produce plastic zip tie waste.
It's really messed up how comfortable people especially in US are, with using aircan chemicals and zipties, for the least important jobs.
That's a point well taken. -Eddie
🤡
I followed this to the T. Had the fluid come up through the cup as yours did. Put on the wheel. Zero pressure. What’s going on?
Should say, zero brake pressure at the lever