I’m glad you were able to school that 50-year old Mason on this basic and very well known method of sheet rock repair. Hopefully, you also showed him another “trick of the trade” where you put paint over it to make it look like the rest of the wall. I love these little secret tips.
I've been a painter for 35 years, I've watched a bazillion repair videos and FINALLY found the dude that does it the same way I was taught 35yrs ago. Right down to trimming off the edges before taping. Bravo!
I’ve been told not to use wood but metal profiles instead Wood may catch dump and twist Then the plaster around the patch cracks This isn’t my trade but I do need to patch some holes from time to time
I was told by a an old painters guild member from Sheffield. I miss those days - we did our jobs so good you could not see the endless work we did on the prep 🤣
holy smokes you mean you didn't turn this into a 20 minute video? THANK YOU for being short and to the point! So many people that watch these types videos are actually working and looking for a quick tutorial
I always cut the piece bigger that I’m using, then peel the drywall off the paper. Leaving about 2" of paper from the edge of the drywall. The Paper then overlaps the seams making it for a better finish. In the field we call this a "hot patch" or a " California patch". And a good finisher always helps. They can hide a lot of things.
@@robertwilber1909 so what eliminates the use of wood is it the robust integrity of the paper? And another question, would some kind of adhesive on the paper be advisable or is the mud reliable enough?
I'm a professional sheetrocker and if you are going to patch a hole that way it's always better to scab a piece of scrap wood on both sides of the hole so it doesn't wobble or move.
Cut the piece of sheetrock first. Use the sheetrock to scribe (trace) your wall cutout. Always fits like a charm. Use a keyhole saw to cutout the sheetrock. Try to feather the edges of your joint compound. A larger blade (12") would be helpful.
@Harry L I don't think most people even know what a "keyhole saw" looks like, how could this possibly be common sense for someone who doesn't already do this for a living?
This is a great way to patch. Two things to add: mesh tape MUST be coated with Hot Mud ( quick setting) at least for the first coat. It looks like he did that because it comes in powder form. Second, if only hot mud is used to make the patch smooth, do your painter a favor and skim with all purpose joint compound, called Mud in the trade. Easier to sponge edges before texture and hot mud will “flash” when painted. The paint sheen won’t match. Oh, and be sure to always Prime new rock and/ or mud prior to painting. 23 years taping experience talking, 3 of which were in Iowa where all walls are smooth. Oh, Bonus tip: Using plywood instead of regular lumber as a backer will prevent the wood splitting due to too many screws in a row. I’ve had way too many 1x2’s split in half.
Hot mud is just a general term regarding any fast setting joint compound, similar to calling Joint Compound “mud”, which is also used when referring to cement and the mortar used for stucco @@williamcbrown7813
Had the 50-year-old mason ever patched dry wall? This is the first way I learned to patch decades ago. Nothing new here. There seems to be some confusion. This is NOT my RUclips post.
Same thought here. It was well done, but I would have done it the same way, because that’s how you do it. And it probably took longer than 5 minutes, simply because the filler doesn’t dry that fast!
That is going to crack because he didn't tape the edges. I drywalled for 9 years and I'd recommend scoring the lines with a utility knife then use a sharp keyhole saw to cut diagonally from each corner in to the hole then you just snap and back cut the paper. If you cut your patch square 4 inches larger on the length and width, and then score the back side of the piece 2 inches around the whole piece. Then snap on your score lines one side at a time then pull the gypsum away from the front paper it will leave 2 inches on each side to act as the joint tape. Then put your mud around the edges like he did screw your piece on, and use green lid/ heavy mud on it it sucks to sand but it's more resistant to cracking. He at least did the right thing and screwed that piece of wood there to attach it.
Rather than using one piece of would in the middle i use two , one on each side , overlap the tape at the corners for added reinforcement , and I " sand " between coats with a wet tile sponge to prevent dust .
As a lifetime painter, that works but can also be done faster with only a piece of drywall, cut larger than the hole. Remove drywall but not it's paper from outside perimeter, using the drywall paper instead of tape to put mud on. Both styles work great. Northern Michigan.
This sounds like a great idea. But what about the thickness of the "kerf"? I assume you're saying you'll use your hole saw to make a plug. It seems like the plug would be pretty loose. And do you use the pilot bit, and fill that hole too?
6" recessed light hole saw for the wall and 10" recessed light hole saw for the hot patch. Use the 6" plug cut out to score the back of your hot patch.
pick a hole saw that is slightly bigger than the damage and use the hole saw without the pilot to remove the damage. Then you take the same hole saw and cut a plug out of a piece of drywall to put in the wall. you'll still screw in a backing board to anchor it but the fit is perfect every time and there is very little waste.
A good but standard issue patch job. Cut the patch directly from your patch material at least 1" larger all around your damage. Use the patch to mark off area to be cut out. Using a jab saw cut the marked off area at a 45° degree angle in towards the interior of the hole. Rasp the patch's edges to a corresponding 45 degrees. Check for fit. Coat the raw edges of the wall and patch materials with white glue. Chamfer the outside side edge of patch slightly. Add a small amount of white glue to your compound and liberally coat the edges of patch and wall with compound and put into place before the glued edges dry completely. Small wall patches will stay in place on their own while larger wall and ceiling patches will need blocking. No tape is needed. I've patched semi-gloss painted ceilings with this method and the patch stays in place and there is no telltale 'hump' where compound has been floated out to conceal tape.
Thanks for taking the time to show this to someone who has no clue. I've been doing drywall for 40 years. This trick has been around longer than that. There's a few more tricks even quicker than this one but it's nice to see someone take the time to share.
5 minutes... right... also love how he didn't show that he had to put two coats of drywall on since the tape and gaps were showing on the first coat of mud
Well. It's a common practice in construction work, so there's no surprise that, he had to cheat the people unaware of the details. How else can you sell something that it's not.
i am kind of amazed how they made the most simple drywall repair this complicated, can do this in three steps but turned it into 10, and when do masons do drywall lmaoo, as a carpenter this is just part of the job
This has to be one of the most (if not THE most) elegant ways to repair drywall I've ever seen! Thank you so much for sharing this absolute gem of a technique!
I've done basically everything the same, except to peal the surrounding paper, the width of the mesh, to compensate for its thickness before mudding. It's more work, but feathers in nicer, making the patch disappear better.
As a homeowner who is only working on my own stuff, I don't care about speed; I want it done RIGHT. This is by far the best video I've seen on patching walls, and I'm glad it came up in my recommended videos. Now go throw away every other wall repair video on your playlist with this one neat hack... 😉
U like the best? Wait till u read my method, the piece of wood that is screwed in place should be two pieces so that All Four corners have bearing support.
Something i have started doing recently is oversizing the patch and using a multitool to cut through the patch drywall and the wall, perfect fit every time! I don't think the tape is needed for such a small fill but each to their own with that one.
For small holes like this I use a coffee can to draw a circle around the hole, then use the coffee can as a template to draw a circle on the new piece of sheetrock. Use the keyhole saw to cut out the hole on the wall and the new piece where I position the coffee can on the corner of the new piece where I have two flat sides to start the cuts. The repair is the same as shown but with a circle not a square.
Old fashioned but still like the plaster walls in old homes. Ours lasted 70 years and still going strong. Never needed to repair anything because someone bumped into the wall or a piece of furniture hit it too hard. No cracks from earthquakes either. The drywall areas didn't do as well. Lost art because it took a lot of time and skill.
I use this technique a lot. I do one thing differently, though. I use a piece of wood that covers most of the hole, then trim the paper off the holes ridges, and fill it with drywall mud, not gyproc. I then sand it and it looks brand new. This works good as well.
Instead of sanding it with a block, use a damp sponge... Rough side for sanding, soft side for smoothing but not flat so it maintains texture if the walls have some... Once it dries you can't tell the difference...
I did this without ever being taught or seeing a video on it. Just kind of "invented" it myself (or so I thought) until I later saw this. They say necessity is the mother of invention.
Got it, don’t use silver screw instead use dark screws. After you screw the board in the middle of the hole you created, give it a knock to make sure no one knocks back before you patch the hole up.
Cut square hole, oversize square drywall patch. Cut paper backing to fit hole which will give you front paper overhang. Mud edges, place in opening and squeeze edges which will mud overhang edges and you are done. Use hot mud and it's really quick.
Good Lord, Im a longtime painting contractor and there’s been a much quicker and better way to patch holes in drywall available for years and cost about $6. Allpro makes an 8” flat aluminum screen that is peel and stick. Use 20 minute mud and apply a thin coat. When dry lightly sand and apply a 2nd thin coat of mud and when dry, lightly sand and you’re ready to prime/paint. The aluminum screen is as hard as a regular drywall patch. Just make sure on the thin coats of mud that you spread it out on the wall a few inches past the screen patch in all directions. Actual work time is about 45 seconds which includes vacuuming up the dust. You’re welcome!
All prepping and drying took whole weekend but its repaired in 5 minutes. btw leave the hole as it is, take a stick wood and glue to stick it on the back side trough the hole and blow it full with PUR foam. is done in 2 minutes. only cut the bulge flat on the suface when dry
That shouldn't have "surprised" anyone. It's how patches have been done for years. Want a useful tip? Trim back and remove the top layer of paper out to the width of where the mesh tape will cover on the existing wall so the tape sits slightly indented. This will avoid a build up or "hump" in the finished compound.
@@hlg_theshepherd2873 really taping is only for known crack areas and / or if a joint or gap is bigger than 1/8th of an inch. otherwise the mud wouldnt have much structure.
Yep, and with less tools. Like just cutting edges 45 degrees, priming, padding something behind, sticking a piece level with the surface, plastering with drywall glue (i.e. Knauf Perlfix), and sanding. He skipped priming btw
I honestly appreciate this post. I’ve got a few door knob damage push-thru jobs I’ve been delaying for too long. This repair will be nice and strong, I just know it.
It's solid work, but I don't know about the Handy tip in the long run. I've got the same effect doing it the traditional, hard way withe California patch & paper from 'home renovision' channel. No mystery screws to hit when next person hanging up a picture frame, or running over with a studfinders, or screws bulging/proud over time.
Excellent video!!! Why do some folks not narrate their videos step by step? We can hear the sound the drill, sandpaper make so there is audio. What am I missing? Again, excellent video.
Very skilled restoration work.👌 after drilling two holes in the middle through the board and the backing wood, you did not fix any screws. Why were the holes drilled? I am curious.
For those of us who have been doing this for decades, well, one good take on this is that maybe just one young drywall newbie will learn this "trick of the trade" by watching this.
Seems like a lot of work...I glue popsicle sticks to the inside, takes a couple minutes, it makes a great base for the spackle. You can even place a small bit of cardboard against the sticks once they dry. Then I fill it in. I've lived in my house for 50 years had 2 boys and 3 grandkids live here. Had a lot of holes to fill, lol. If your fingers are too big for the hole use a piece of wire around the stick and put into place. They have never had to be redone nor have they cracked or chipped, just like new! Try it!
I'm glad you schooled a MASON on a drywall repair. I did basically the same repair when I was 16 and had never once ever touched drywall before. 30 years later.... I don't know what that old repair looks like... but I bet the mason's concrete work is still holding up as they don't deal with drywall. You may want to rename this video.
Этому методу уже 100500 лет !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This method is already 100500 years old !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
There is my cure for your comment. After painting the walls, and allowing them to dry, I simply get an ordinary pencil, then you (faintly) write the name of the paint blend in a few places that are obscure. The size of the font is very small - less than 3 or 4 millimetres. I had a painting job just yesterday, to match the existing paint, and my daughter volunteered to do the job. The thing was, I had painted the Sun Room over ten years ago. She asked me if I could even remember the colour? I simply said to her - "Let's go and find the accurate Paint Colour". She found this in an instant. The paint colour to buy- was called 'Llama'. Greetings from Australia.
I skip most of those steps. I learned years ago that plastic body filler(bondo) will stick to any drywall or wood. It also has much more structural strength than spackle/joint compound. I spread a little plastic filler on the edges of the patch and slip into place, no need for backing, and smooth the excess with a spreader. it dries very quick and can be sanded and painted in no time. I've been doing it for years and it's never failed. Another advantage is that the paint doesn't suck into the plastic filler, like with spackle. I paint right over it with latex, no primer, and I've never had a problem. Works great on cracks and imperfections on wood too, very fast.
@@idahogreen2885 oh hell yeah, hacked myself into a house on a private lake that's paid for, driving a Lexus that's paid for too. I haven't worked for 8 years, just travel and fishing. How's your life going sport? 🤣
I’m trying to teach myself to be handy and a beginner. What are all the tools and supplies that he has to pull all of this off? I want to practice this on a hole in the garage just to gain the confidence that I can do this. I just have no idea what all supplies and tools are in this video. That tool to spread the puddy substance looks like a spatula. Can someone list out the items needed with the time stamp?
A hole that size can be fixed with a spit ball. Soak paper in wallpaper paste and screw it up into a ball and plug the hole. Once it has set saw off the face of it level with the surface of the wall and fill and paint.
I use a different technique where I use glue like Liquid Nails rather than screws. You just pull the piece of wood tight using some fishing line (if the hole is too small to get your hand in there) and hold it in place for 2-3 minutes.
That fiber tape is actually for large cracks and using fast drying durabond 90. Paper tape is the best way to tape things like this as it is smoooooth.
on stuff that short I never even bother with the mesh, just over-paste the joint then sand it back flush when dry. the hardest part of this job is always matching the texture.
I use piece of dry wall instead of wood which can be wider (use large screw in the middle driven a bit just to hold the piece). Use the glue and the screws. Then glue patch piece and plaster except the screws. Next day remove the screws and replaster. Save the screws and no tape .
I agree with another comment about not needing mesh tape. It creates a hump that you need to flair out. Hot mud is incredibly strong and will not crack on a small repair
I prefer the pumpkin patch method. Just like you would cut the top of a pumpkin to make a jack o' lantern. The angled edges fit nicely and no need for a support if it's a small hole like the one in the video.
I’m glad you were able to school that 50-year old Mason on this basic and very well known method of sheet rock repair. Hopefully, you also showed him another “trick of the trade” where you put paint over it to make it look like the rest of the wall. I love these little secret tips.
Amen. I'm an electrician and learned this after about a day of work.
That was hilarious. Thank you-
😂😂😂
He forgot the trick to cut it oversized, so you use the sheetrock paper as built in tape.
Lol, I learned that when I was 13
I've been a painter for 35 years, I've watched a bazillion repair videos and FINALLY found the dude that does it the same way I was taught 35yrs ago. Right down to trimming off the edges before taping. Bravo!
Are you referring to the bevel?
I fixed a hole like that 35 years ago. Drywall haven't changed since then.
I’ve been told not to use wood but metal profiles instead
Wood may catch dump and twist
Then the plaster around the patch cracks
This isn’t my trade but I do need to patch some holes from time to time
Do you make a little paper template first too??
I was told by a an old painters guild member from Sheffield. I miss those days - we did our jobs so good you could not see the endless work we did on the prep 🤣
holy smokes you mean you didn't turn this into a 20 minute video? THANK YOU for being short and to the point! So many people that watch these types videos are actually working and looking for a quick tutorial
Right?!
I always cut the piece bigger that I’m using, then peel the drywall off the paper. Leaving about 2" of paper from the edge of the drywall. The Paper then overlaps the seams making it for a better finish. In the field we call this a "hot patch" or a " California patch". And a good finisher always helps. They can hide a lot of things.
I use your method to do patches, but I don’t bother to put wood behind for anything that isn’t too big.
I've also heard it called a hot patch
I'll give that a try next time I'm doing some repairs. Good tip 👍
In Pa called a blowout patch. Like the earlier comment, leave 2" paper border and there is no need for wood. No real reason to cut hole square either.
@@robertwilber1909 so what eliminates the use of wood is it the robust integrity of the paper? And another question, would some kind of adhesive on the paper be advisable or is the mud reliable enough?
I'm a professional sheetrocker and if you are going to patch a hole that way it's always better to scab a piece of scrap wood on both sides of the hole so it doesn't wobble or move.
Exactly.
А еще лучше использовать металический профиль.
That sounds like an excellent and astute criticism; delivered with poise. It makes perfect sense. Thanks for the addition!
California patch takes 2 minutes
Yup
I would love to see someone do this in 5 minutes.
Lol... I was thinking the same thing.
This Video alone is already 3minutes long...
Seeing the end result, I would just replace the whole plate and be done sooner.
Not possible
@@Boj-Aniviain germany we say "dann hast du keine Ahnung von Trockenbau du Flachpfeife"
@@normalerbuerger als Hochbauzeichner haben wir tatsächlich keine Ahnung vom Trockenbau😂 Theorie ist da, aber die Praxis fehlt wie immer...
Cut the piece of sheetrock first. Use the sheetrock to scribe (trace) your wall cutout. Always fits like a charm. Use a keyhole saw to cutout the sheetrock. Try to feather the edges of your joint compound. A larger blade (12") would be helpful.
You are an obvious professional
@@charlesritter6640🤣🤣Just common sense
@Harry L I don't think most people even know what a "keyhole saw" looks like, how could this possibly be common sense for someone who doesn't already do this for a living?
Does it matter how big the hole is? About a foot tall and 8 inches wide?
@@igiveup37 Same method, just put more pieces of timber in.
This is a great way to patch. Two things to add: mesh tape MUST be coated with Hot Mud ( quick setting) at least for the first coat. It looks like he did that because it comes in powder form. Second, if only hot mud is used to make the patch smooth, do your painter a favor and skim with all purpose joint compound, called Mud in the trade. Easier to sponge edges before texture and hot mud will “flash” when painted. The paint sheen won’t match. Oh, and be sure to always Prime new rock and/ or mud prior to painting. 23 years taping experience talking, 3 of which were in Iowa where all walls are smooth. Oh, Bonus tip: Using plywood instead of regular lumber as a backer will prevent the wood splitting due to too many screws in a row. I’ve had way too many 1x2’s split in half.
Hot Mud ? Do I warm it up in the microwave
Second the plywood idea!
Another trick that works really well is to use a paint stick! They don't tend to split like a 1x2 would.
Hot mud is just a general term regarding any fast setting joint compound, similar to calling Joint Compound “mud”, which is also used when referring to cement and the mortar used for stucco @@williamcbrown7813
@@williamcbrown7813 the chemical reaction actually makes heat.... so yes the mud gets" hot"
Did not know that I could reduce my flashing by doing last coat with all purpose! Thx for the tip
The vegetable peeler to smooth the sheet rock edges was a nice trick. Hadn't seen that one before.
Measure once.cut patch first.then use that as a pattern
Those are the words i was looking for
Yeah, why make a piece of paper to trace?
This is an incredible technique! Fixing a wall hole in just 5 minutes is genius. Such a helpful tip for quick and effective repairs!
5 minutes...!? this would take me at least an hour.
Had the 50-year-old mason ever patched dry wall? This is the first way I learned to patch decades ago. Nothing new here.
There seems to be some confusion.
This is NOT my RUclips post.
😂
I think the title was purposely worded that way for more potential attention
Same thought here. It was well done, but I would have done it the same way, because that’s how you do it. And it probably took longer than 5 minutes, simply because the filler doesn’t dry that fast!
I would say probably but not every day
That is going to crack because he didn't tape the edges. I drywalled for 9 years and I'd recommend scoring the lines with a utility knife then use a sharp keyhole saw to cut diagonally from each corner in to the hole then you just snap and back cut the paper. If you cut your patch square 4 inches larger on the length and width, and then score the back side of the piece 2 inches around the whole piece. Then snap on your score lines one side at a time then pull the gypsum away from the front paper it will leave 2 inches on each side to act as the joint tape. Then put your mud around the edges like he did screw your piece on, and use green lid/ heavy mud on it it sucks to sand but it's more resistant to cracking. He at least did the right thing and screwed that piece of wood there to attach it.
My Mom had the carpenter show me these method to fix all the holes I punched in the walls as a teenager, works well👌
Happy New Year mate!!
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Ours were made by hockey pucks!
Rather than using one piece of would in the middle i use two , one on each side , overlap the tape at the corners for added reinforcement , and I " sand " between coats with a wet tile sponge to prevent dust .
As a lifetime painter, that works but can also be done faster with only a piece of drywall, cut larger than the hole. Remove drywall but not it's paper from outside perimeter, using the drywall paper instead of tape to put mud on. Both styles work great. Northern Michigan.
Hot-patch
We call it a butterfly patch, probably our own nickname lol
@willflores4370 Makes sense though for sure.
I was taught hillbilly hot patch Lol
Hot patch for sure. This abomination got 5.4 million views...
This is basic day one drywall repair skill. I actually prefer to use a hole saw for this type of repair because you get an exact fit every time.
This sounds like a great idea.
But what about the thickness of the "kerf"? I assume you're saying you'll use your hole saw to make a plug. It seems like the plug would be pretty loose.
And do you use the pilot bit, and fill that hole too?
Came to the comments for the same reason. Not sure what "50 year old mason" this surprised, I thought this was pretty common knowledge.
6" recessed light hole saw for the wall and 10" recessed light hole saw for the hot patch. Use the 6" plug cut out to score the back of your hot patch.
pick a hole saw that is slightly bigger than the damage and use the hole saw without the pilot to remove the damage. Then you take the same hole saw and cut a plug out of a piece of drywall to put in the wall. you'll still screw in a backing board to anchor it but the fit is perfect every time and there is very little waste.
@@w00tberrypie48 As a 50 year mason, I was surprised by this
A good but standard issue patch job.
Cut the patch directly from your patch material at least 1" larger all around your damage. Use the patch to mark off area to be cut out. Using a jab saw cut the marked off area at a 45° degree angle in towards the interior of the hole. Rasp the patch's edges to a corresponding 45 degrees. Check for fit.
Coat the raw edges of the wall and patch materials with white glue. Chamfer the outside side edge of patch slightly.
Add a small amount of white glue to your compound and liberally coat the edges of patch and wall with compound and put into place before the glued edges dry completely.
Small wall patches will stay in place on their own while larger wall and ceiling patches will need blocking. No tape is needed.
I've patched semi-gloss painted ceilings with this method and the patch stays in place and there is no telltale 'hump' where compound has been floated out to conceal tape.
Thanks for taking the time to show this to someone who has no clue. I've been doing drywall for 40 years. This trick has been around longer than that. There's a few more tricks even quicker than this one but it's nice to see someone take the time to share.
Im an electrician and this is the way I've been doing it for years. Works like a charm.
WAS about to writ the same .. everytime i miss my wire in the wall im drilling all the holes and fixim them like this after :D
Exactly the same ⚡🔌💡
Btw greetings from Austria/Europe.
I guess the whole world do it this way
@@dominichueber5646 вы те еще рукожопы. В России за деревяшки в стене посалят на бутылку. Приезжайте
5 minutes... right... also love how he didn't show that he had to put two coats of drywall on since the tape and gaps were showing on the first coat of mud
Also the screws will show eventually.
Take me 3 days. Respect to professionals.
@@opiatebank Even with fast set it takes professionals far more than the five minutes claimed. Plus, he used unnecessary extra steps.
Well. It's a common practice in construction work, so there's no surprise that, he had to cheat the people unaware of the details. How else can you sell something that it's not.
Take that much time to patch a hole in the wall while you’re on the clock and you’ll soon find yourself unemployed 😂
This changes my life. I fixed a hole in my wall that was significantly bigger than the one in the video following this method.
i am kind of amazed how they made the most simple drywall repair this complicated, can do this in three steps but turned it into 10, and when do masons do drywall lmaoo, as a carpenter this is just part of the job
As a carpenter, you ought to know that us Masons won't and don't do anything that doesn't involve mortar and a trowel.😁
Same here. My father was patching drywall 40 years ago that way
Yep, I've been doing drywall for 40 years and it's nothing new.
This has to be one of the most (if not THE most) elegant ways to repair drywall I've ever seen!
Thank you so much for sharing this absolute gem of a technique!
Yes. It is the most common way.
I've done basically everything the same, except to peal the surrounding paper, the width of the mesh, to compensate for its thickness before mudding. It's more work, but feathers in nicer, making the patch disappear better.
👍👍👍
Happy New Year mate!!
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Pro Tip: I like that you tapered the edges on the wall and the patch.
I have never done that, GREAT tip! !! !!!
I find it easier to just hang picture frames over holes
As a homeowner who is only working on my own stuff, I don't care about speed; I want it done RIGHT. This is by far the best video I've seen on patching walls, and I'm glad it came up in my recommended videos. Now go throw away every other wall repair video on your playlist with this one neat hack... 😉
Look for yankee patck or california patch. It's half the time and half the step. Who uses a carrot peeler to work on drywall 🤣
U like the best? Wait till u read my method, the piece of wood that is screwed in place should be two pieces so that All Four corners have bearing support.
@@ericmeilleur2714 I use vegetable peeler's, especially when doing cedar shingles, u should stop scoffing and learn.
@@ericmeilleur2714 I'm familiar. I bought a landlord special and spend a lot of time undoing such shoddy work.
Something i have started doing recently is oversizing the patch and using a multitool to cut through the patch drywall and the wall, perfect fit every time! I don't think the tape is needed for such a small fill but each to their own with that one.
For small holes like this I use a coffee can to draw a circle around the hole, then use the coffee can as a template to draw a circle on the new piece of sheetrock. Use the keyhole saw to cut out the hole on the wall and the new piece where I position the coffee can on the corner of the new piece where I have two flat sides to start the cuts. The repair is the same as shown but with a circle not a square.
What has a square ever done to you?
@@masterpaine9161
No matter how much you water it,
a square root will only grow exponentially... 🤔
@@Pork-Chopper Groan!
Old fashioned but still like the plaster walls in old homes. Ours lasted 70 years and still going strong. Never needed to repair anything because someone bumped into the wall or a piece of furniture hit it too hard. No cracks from earthquakes either. The drywall areas didn't do as well. Lost art because it took a lot of time and skill.
I use this technique a lot. I do one thing differently, though. I use a piece of wood that covers most of the hole, then trim the paper off the holes ridges, and fill it with drywall mud, not gyproc. I then sand it and it looks brand new. This works good as well.
GUESS WHAT!!! I played the video on double speed and I finished the patch in one minute and thirty-eight seconds! I'm so proud of myself!!!
I did the same thing to cook minute rice in 42 seconds.
Instead of sanding it with a block, use a damp sponge... Rough side for sanding, soft side for smoothing but not flat so it maintains texture if the walls have some... Once it dries you can't tell the difference...
Imma have to try the damp sponge
Happy New Year mate!!
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In High school I had a shop class on maintaining your home. It was taught right out of a textbook. It showed this process. I graduated in 1983.
As an electrician I can certify this is definitely a trick to have in your bag forsure. My dad taught me this when I was about 14, 38 now.
I did this without ever being taught or seeing a video on it. Just kind of "invented" it myself (or so I thought) until I later saw this. They say necessity is the mother of invention.
@@johnvaldes8725 lol dope. Yessir
Great dad indeed!
bravo! The wall is BETTER than it was before!
Great video, cutting a square piece of drywall and tracing it also works for a nice fit skipping the paper step to make the hole
Happy New Year mate!!
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Got it, don’t use silver screw instead use dark screws. After you screw the board in the middle of the hole you created, give it a knock to make sure no one knocks back before you patch the hole up.
😂😂
I appreciated the way he beveled the edges. I have never tried that and I feel silly for not having considered it!
Spot on I have been using this technique for many years now, works a treat, smaller hole and you can mount towel rails etc on to the timber batten
Happy New Year mate!!
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I really needed this video. Thank you so very much. Merry Christmas my fellow gentleman.
Cut square hole, oversize square drywall patch. Cut paper backing to fit hole which will give you front paper overhang. Mud edges, place in opening and squeeze edges which will mud overhang edges and you are done. Use hot mud and it's really quick.
Couple questions here from a home repair newbie.. 1, what kind of tape is that? And 2 what is the difference between the screws used? Thanks.
The black screws are drywall screws. They have a fine thread.
Fiberglass tape ... available at all home repair/hardware stores; I still prefer paper tape ... works like a charm every time.
Good Lord, Im a longtime painting contractor and there’s been a much quicker and better way to patch holes in drywall available for years and cost about $6. Allpro makes an 8” flat aluminum screen that is peel and stick. Use 20 minute mud and apply a thin coat. When dry lightly sand and apply a 2nd thin coat of mud and when dry, lightly sand and you’re ready to prime/paint. The aluminum screen is as hard as a regular drywall patch. Just make sure on the thin coats of mud that you spread it out on the wall a few inches past the screen patch in all directions. Actual work time is about 45 seconds which includes vacuuming up the dust. You’re welcome!
Me 2, im like wtf?
I've used both methods several times.
All prepping and drying took whole weekend but its repaired in 5 minutes. btw leave the hole as it is, take a stick wood and glue to stick it on the back side trough the hole and blow it full with PUR foam. is done in 2 minutes. only cut the bulge flat on the suface when dry
That shouldn't have "surprised" anyone. It's how patches have been done for years.
Want a useful tip? Trim back and remove the top layer of paper out to the width of where the mesh tape will cover on the existing wall so the tape sits slightly indented. This will avoid a build up or "hump" in the finished compound.
I wouldn't even bother taping this
@@hlg_theshepherd2873 really taping is only for known crack areas and / or if a joint or gap is bigger than 1/8th of an inch. otherwise the mud wouldnt have much structure.
I use the paper off the Sheetrock, torn around the edge to feather it. When you cut the patch, score it on the back and peel off the edges.
каждый картонщик знает как это делать,совсем не новость
Im amazed at how the plaster grew whist drying. It’s like there was another coat
I'd primarily be surprised because there are faster and easier ways to mend that hole.
Yep, and with less tools. Like just cutting edges 45 degrees, priming, padding something behind, sticking a piece level with the surface, plastering with drywall glue (i.e. Knauf Perlfix), and sanding. He skipped priming btw
I honestly appreciate this post. I’ve got a few door knob damage push-thru jobs I’ve been delaying for too long. This repair will be nice and strong, I just know it.
how did it go? if it didnt go... get your ass in there my friend
Вот ничего себе, это же мастер на все руки! А я раньше сразу менял место жительство. А можно то было и так сделать.
Happy New Year mate!!
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It's solid work, but I don't know about the
Handy tip in the long run. I've got the same effect doing it the traditional, hard way withe California patch & paper from 'home renovision' channel. No mystery screws to hit when next person hanging up a picture frame, or running over with a studfinders, or screws bulging/proud over time.
Instead of dry sanding, use a wet sponge. No dust mess, take the edges off faster, and works between texture so it does the transition lines better.
Ale sztuka.!! 15 lat temu tez sie tak robiło.Poza tym najpierw w szczeliny daje sie gips jak juz,dopiero potem siatke,fizeline.
😂Chciałem napisać dokładnie to samo👌! Odkrył Amerykę...... 🤣🤦♂️
Te porady to dla jakiś lamusów są co w życiu nic nie robili i oglądając myślą, że gość Amerykę odkrył
Excellent video!!! Why do some folks not narrate their videos step by step? We can hear the sound the drill, sandpaper make so there is audio. What am I missing? Again, excellent video.
Thanks for a informative to the point video! 👍
Thank you for this video, I can now do much needed repairs.
Use joint tape or it will crack
Same here, which I will save $250(wanted by the construction guy) for the 8X10 inches whole on the wall in my bedroom.
@@losangeles6186 watch a few more videos first
Very skilled restoration work.👌 after drilling two holes in the middle through the board and the backing wood, you did not fix any screws. Why were the holes drilled? I am curious.
For small holes, you don't need the wood unless it's on the ceiling, just angle the edges on wall and piece to a 45 degree
For those of us who have been doing this for decades, well, one good take on this is that maybe just one young drywall newbie will learn this "trick of the trade" by watching this.
Very new... like they've just scheduled the interview.
Nada nuevo bajo el sol!!!!!! Hace años q vengo haciendo este tipo d reparaciones. Saludos desde Argentina pais d lokitos
Seems like a lot of work...I glue popsicle sticks to the inside, takes a couple minutes, it makes a great base for the spackle. You can even place a small bit of cardboard against the sticks once they dry. Then I fill it in. I've lived in my house for 50 years had 2 boys and 3 grandkids live here. Had a lot of holes to fill, lol. If your fingers are too big for the hole use a piece of wire around the stick and put into place. They have never had to be redone nor have they cracked or chipped, just like new! Try it!
This is the way 95% of actual trades people do that repair. Nice tip on trimming the edges. I'll use that from now on!
No it isnt. As a commercial carpenter this video is cringe.
I'm glad you schooled a MASON on a drywall repair.
I did basically the same repair when I was 16 and had never once ever touched drywall before.
30 years later.... I don't know what that old repair looks like... but I bet the mason's concrete work is still holding up as they don't deal with drywall.
You may want to rename this video.
Этому методу уже 100500 лет !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This method is already 100500 years old !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
А у нас каменщики кирпичи кладут😜😀😀
スッゲーな建築関係で仕事してたら常識なのにこんな驚かれるとは
ほんとそれ！
ま、まぁｗ もちっと幅広入れるか両端入れるかすれば好いのにって思った俺は負けでしょうか？
5分で施工終わらんだろ
ちゃんと寒冷紗貼ってて偉い
That’s the right way to do it.
I’ll remember this excellent video. Thanks for sharing it with us all 👍
А зачем нужна была промежуточная картонка? Сразу бы отрезал по размеру нужный элемент, приложил, обвёл карандашом и вырезай!
Happy New Year mate!!
Granting you a massive (Gift-wrap) prezzie, kindly send a direct inbox 📥 above 👆to Grant your item......
There are much better ways to do this but the paper pattern for both cuts is a good idea.
Was taught this by a old timer & it’s came in handy so many times.
I've used this method before, but I don't remember where I learned it from. I used to do motel maintenance.
Hardest part of this repair is remembering what color your wall is painted 😂 cool video thanks
There is my cure for your comment. After painting the walls, and allowing them to dry, I simply get an ordinary pencil, then you (faintly) write the name of the paint blend in a few places that are obscure. The size of the font is very small - less than 3 or 4 millimetres. I had a painting job just yesterday, to match the existing paint, and my daughter volunteered to do the job. The thing was, I had painted the Sun Room over ten years ago. She asked me if I could even remember the colour? I simply said to her - "Let's go and find the accurate Paint Colour". She found this in an instant. The paint colour to buy- was called 'Llama'. Greetings from Australia.
@@peterduxbury927 Brilliant, thank you
穴は消えたけど何かあった感がw
I skip most of those steps. I learned years ago that plastic body filler(bondo) will stick to any drywall or wood. It also has much more structural strength than spackle/joint compound. I spread a little plastic filler on the edges of the patch and slip into place, no need for backing, and smooth the excess with a spreader. it dries very quick and can be sanded and painted in no time. I've been doing it for years and it's never failed. Another advantage is that the paint doesn't suck into the plastic filler, like with spackle. I paint right over it with latex, no primer, and I've never had a problem. Works great on cracks and imperfections on wood too, very fast.
Of all the predictable ‘you should have done it this way’ comments, yours is by far the most helpful (and interesting).
@@idahogreen2885 oh hell yeah, hacked myself into a house on a private lake that's paid for, driving a Lexus that's paid for too. I haven't worked for 8 years, just travel and fishing. How's your life going sport? 🤣
I repair same way with the exception of just using liquid nail to fill the crack between the patch piece and dry wall. No tape.
Ale sztuka.!!! 15 lat temu tez sie tak robiło.
😁👍
What a skill 👏
You call that skill? That's a shit job
I’m trying to teach myself to be handy and a beginner. What are all the tools and supplies that he has to pull all of this off?
I want to practice this on a hole in the garage just to gain the confidence that I can do this. I just have no idea what all supplies and tools are in this video.
That tool to spread the puddy substance looks like a spatula. Can someone list out the items needed with the time stamp?
5分とはいったい…
Happy New Year mate!!
Granting you a massive (Gift-wrap) prezzie, kindly send a direct inbox 📥 above 👆to Grant your item....
A perfectly fine fix. That took a minimum of a half hour.
Exactly.
Probably took 5 minutes to set up the camera 😂
A hole that size can be fixed with a spit ball. Soak paper in wallpaper paste and screw it up into a ball and plug the hole. Once it has set saw off the face of it level with the surface of the wall and fill and paint.
いやいや最初から適当な大きさにボード切ってそのボードで型どってやったほうが早いし、真ん中で下地入れるとジョイントが動くからあんまよくないよ‥。ってか5分やないしな‥笑
Ótimo trabalho 👍👍👍👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👍🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷 .
I use a different technique where I use glue like Liquid Nails rather than screws. You just pull the piece of wood tight using some fishing line (if the hole is too small to get your hand in there) and hold it in place for 2-3 minutes.
That fiber tape is actually for large cracks and using fast drying durabond 90. Paper tape is the best way to tape things like this as it is smoooooth.
on stuff that short I never even bother with the mesh, just over-paste the joint then sand it back flush when dry. the hardest part of this job is always matching the texture.
@1:42 I think it's OK to stop right there, It is already a perfect repair for me :)
QUESTION: What size are the screws used here?
Useful technique I've used it several times after running romex
It would be awesome if you could include a list of all the needed supplies in the description or as a pinned comment
Took a 5 min job and turned it into an hour. Great work.
🤣🤣
HAHAHAHA
You know you can see every hole this guy has punched in his drywall
Great ideal on the bevel on the edges! I've done this same repair technique, but the bevel is a game-changer! Nice addition!
What does the beveled edges accomplish ? Thanks.
@@rainerrain9689 Beveling the joints reduces the chance for a visible and tactile joint. It's definitely not mandatory, but it's a nice touch.
@@onesoldierserving Hey thanks for the reply ,appreciate it.
That’s how I was taught to repair a hole in drywall years ago when I first went into maintenance .
Can someone please tell me the necessity of the mesh and why you couldn't just straight spackle then sand? Thanks!
I use piece of dry wall instead of wood which can be wider (use large screw in the middle driven a bit just to hold the piece). Use the glue and the screws. Then glue patch piece and plaster except the screws. Next day remove the screws and replaster. Save the screws and no tape .
Yep that’s how I always fixed them. Can even use the wood from the paint stirrers which are light but still do the trick
どこが穴だったのか分からない～、って結末を期待してたのに、思いっきり目立ってて笑った。
昔学生服を知人に修復してもらって継ぎはぎがそのまんまで、貧乏学生みたいな恰好になったの思い出しました。。
壁穴修復が上手い施工店なら20分の作業で殆ど分からない状態までもっていけます。
I agree with another comment about not needing mesh tape. It creates a hump that you need to flair out. Hot mud is incredibly strong and will not crack on a small repair
That Kilted Guy points out mesh tape really needs hot mud, as do cracks.
I prefer the pumpkin patch method. Just like you would cut the top of a pumpkin to make a jack o' lantern. The angled edges fit nicely and no need for a support if it's a small hole like the one in the video.