I used that other valve spring compressor you had plus a bit of pipe I cut off. I had to compress the spring, then glue the collets on with grease using a stick I poked down the pipe. What a mission.
With enough searching of other videos, yours finally came up in recommendations. Thank goodness. Your instructions are clear cut and easy to understand, especially when you consider my career is computer nerd. However, after seeing what you've done, I am pretty sure I could do this on my daughter's '14 Equinox. Chain either jumped or broke. I think the first. Anyway, I do plenty of medium level car work, so no noob by any sense. Plus, I have brother in laws with a crapton of car experience. One question, though: it's the piston rings that are the cause of the oil issues with these damn engines, right? If I'm putting in the work on a budget, I'd like to solve that issue so I won't need to babysit the dipstick every weekend.
Thanks for the kind words. In my experience the piston rings are the problem, after doing mine the oil consumption is very normal not a quart a week like it used to be. Take your time, and you will be fine. Good luck on your build.
Great video! How did you remove the head and it still be flat? I've got one to do and really don't want to machine shop it again. I've only heard to remove them in reverse order and only loosen about 1/8 turn for the first 6 passes. Any help is appreciated.
Thank you, and I did the reverse order like your saying at about half turn per bolt till loose. I checked my head with a flat edge and it was just fine, been running to this day no problem. Good luck on your rebuild.
Great video! Me and my son are replacing the valves on a 2017 GMC Terrain with the 2.4 ecotec. This is going to be his first car. I've followed along your video and its been such a big help as I never done this before. I was hoping you could help me out because we're kind of stuck. Ive seen conflicting things online about where my camshaft notches should be with the 2017 lea models. It looks like yours are both around the 5 o'clock mark, if i'm correct my intake notch should be at the 10 o'clock mark and my exhaust should be around 5 o'clock. Also, my valves aren't completely closed on the 1 and 2 cylinders, is this a problem? Last thing, to my knowledge I set the engine at TDC before i removed everything. My #1 and #4 pistons are all yhe way up almost flush with the top of the block and the #2 and #3 pistons are all the way down. Is this correct? Sorry for the long comment. I'm hoping for a hail mary here lol. There's not much online for this and you seem like you know your stuff.
First it sounds like your working on a 2.2l not the 2.4l. The 2.2l cams I think should be at 10 and 7 o’clock, and the 2.4l is at 5 and 7 o’clock. Second if your cams are in the proper location number 1 should be all closed as that’s the compression stroke for TDC. Third I think as long as your cams are in there respected positions and the crank key is at 12 o’clock that should be TDC, so if 1 and 4 are up and 2 and 4 are down that probably is right. Now this is information for my 2010 terrain I’m not 100% sure if things changed for 2017, but I think this might get you in the right direction. I hope this helps.
The cam positions for the actuators change from the 2010 to 2017 You should look at a video on a newer engine model for your timing The first 2.4 was an laf motor The later 2.4 is an Lea
@@factoryratgarage You underestimate my ability assemble things wrong! Lol. They will go in that way, but the valve stem will stick up about 1/8" above the spring because the spring is compressed more.
Question. The camshafts have about 1/8" play from front to back (relative to the motor) before tightening them down. I centered them up so the wear line on the front of the shaft matched the outside of the head, and the machined parts lined up with the bearings they sit in. Still, it's a little concerning that I have 1/8" of leeway to choose where it sits exactly before I tighten it down. The tapered flanges on the front of the camshaft were maybe 1/16" away from the inside of the head like that. Do you know exactly how that's supposed to be positioned?
I have the same problem, jumped time and all the valves are bent. pistons look ok, small groove but nothing bad. Im a little worried the pistons were messed up by smacking all of the valves, should i worry or just replace the valves and send it. otherwise is there any test i should run to see if the pistons are good?
I would just give the pistons a good cleaning and look the tops over real good, if you don’t see anything they’re more than likely ok. Pistons are pretty resilient. No test I can think of other than a leak down test but that would require all the valves and head be put back together and then you won’t have a definitive answer weather it’s piston rings or cracked piston.
I noticed that Rock Auto has intake valves priced around ten bucks each, while on Amazon, I found a complete set for sixty dollars. Since we're both working on budget builds, I wanted to get your opinion on the brands you purchased. Could you let me know which brand you went for and if you found them to be reliable? I value your expertise and would appreciate any insights you can provide.
One camshaft is longer than the other, the longer one is front and intake, the shorter one is rear exhaust. I didn’t go by the numbers, hope this helps.
Bent valves? Did it break the roller rocker finger follower things? Because that happened to a customer vehicle that jumped time. I'll be putting a head on it soon no doubt.
Question....when you lapped the valves were the old seats in or were they removed. I'm about to do mine and was wondering if I need them in to lap the valves...tia
Thanks for vids. Big help as im currently doing all of this. 2011 equinox 2.4 Laf. Question. Is there an up and down to the valve springs? Not alot info for that. I measured both ends spring gap and one end is 2 hundredths less so put tighter end down on head seat. Is that correct? Question. On cam vvt oil seals. Info i found said important to put the seals splits opposite each other 12 and 6. Then service manual says put both splits at 12. Are they supposed to be 12 on intake and 6 on exhaust? Or 12 on both or doesnt it matter? Thanks in advance for any info. Also noticed you wearing CMU shirt in vid. Im in mid michigan. Can you come do this for me? Lol.
Your springs should be fine, typically unless there beehive springs they don’t matter, I just looked at my manual and it also says 12 o clock position, I can’t remember off hand mine as it was over a year ago but I’d go by the manual. And I’m from mid Michigan too, good luck on your build.
@@factoryratgarage Thanks for info. I'm in saginaw wanna come check it out I'll pay for time? Do these cylinders need honing? They look good and bearings look great but replacing anyway. Dont wanna replace cap bolts either but manual say to.
@@grdcv I’m about hour and half away from Saginaw I appreciate the offer but I really don’t have the time right now. I didn’t hone mine I could still see cross hatching in my cylinders so I ran with it. My bearings looked good so I reused, also reused bolts. Still driving daily with no problems.
@@factoryratgarage Thats cool figured longshot. Bought this at 90k got 100k out of it in 3 y yrs. On the clock 3000k oil changes. It broke black guide and top guide chain jumped 3 teeth. Couldnt get comp so head off. Valves good. Pan off to get pieces plastic out. Figured do rings and bearings. Orig bearings looked good. Hope works. Thanks for how to big help with 50 others and alot of confusion. Was surprised how clean everything was except oil rings. Thousands in oil changes and constant checking only way made it this long.
Most places won’t rebuild they usually just replace whole engine, if you find a place that will rebuild it might cost about the same as a replacement engine. I rebuilt mine cause I had the time and skills and it saved me a bunch of money. Good luck with your build.
Thank you for showing this. Helped me a lot.
You’re the first site I’ve seen that actually showed Val’s seating procedures cool
Awesome video! Very detailed instructions, nice editing and camera work! Looks great!
Thank you.
I used that other valve spring compressor you had plus a bit of pipe I cut off. I had to compress the spring, then glue the collets on with grease using a stick I poked down the pipe. What a mission.
That’s awesome ingenuity, it’s definitely a good time lol.
Good work with the lapping, good detail and camera work.
Thank you, and thank you for the support.
Thanks for confirming for me that this is not a gravel driveway (no garage) repair.
Something I have the capability for, just not the space.
Thank you! Got to do my wifes car soon.
With enough searching of other videos, yours finally came up in recommendations. Thank goodness. Your instructions are clear cut and easy to understand, especially when you consider my career is computer nerd. However, after seeing what you've done, I am pretty sure I could do this on my daughter's '14 Equinox. Chain either jumped or broke. I think the first. Anyway, I do plenty of medium level car work, so no noob by any sense. Plus, I have brother in laws with a crapton of car experience. One question, though: it's the piston rings that are the cause of the oil issues with these damn engines, right? If I'm putting in the work on a budget, I'd like to solve that issue so I won't need to babysit the dipstick every weekend.
Thanks for the kind words. In my experience the piston rings are the problem, after doing mine the oil consumption is very normal not a quart a week like it used to be. Take your time, and you will be fine. Good luck on your build.
Great video! How did you remove the head and it still be flat? I've got one to do and really don't want to machine shop it again. I've only heard to remove them in reverse order and only loosen about 1/8 turn for the first 6 passes. Any help is appreciated.
Thank you, and I did the reverse order like your saying at about half turn per bolt till loose. I checked my head with a flat edge and it was just fine, been running to this day no problem. Good luck on your rebuild.
Great video! Me and my son are replacing the valves on a 2017 GMC Terrain with the 2.4 ecotec. This is going to be his first car. I've followed along your video and its been such a big help as I never done this before.
I was hoping you could help me out because we're kind of stuck. Ive seen conflicting things online about where my camshaft notches should be with the 2017 lea models. It looks like yours are both around the 5 o'clock mark, if i'm correct my intake notch should be at the 10 o'clock mark and my exhaust should be around 5 o'clock.
Also, my valves aren't completely closed on the 1 and 2 cylinders, is this a problem?
Last thing, to my knowledge I set the engine at TDC before i removed everything. My #1 and #4 pistons are all yhe way up almost flush with the top of the block and the #2 and #3 pistons are all the way down. Is this correct?
Sorry for the long comment. I'm hoping for a hail mary here lol. There's not much online for this and you seem like you know your stuff.
First it sounds like your working on a 2.2l not the 2.4l. The 2.2l cams I think should be at 10 and 7 o’clock, and the 2.4l is at 5 and 7 o’clock. Second if your cams are in the proper location number 1 should be all closed as that’s the compression stroke for TDC. Third I think as long as your cams are in there respected positions and the crank key is at 12 o’clock that should be TDC, so if 1 and 4 are up and 2 and 4 are down that probably is right. Now this is information for my 2010 terrain I’m not 100% sure if things changed for 2017, but I think this might get you in the right direction. I hope this helps.
The cam positions for the actuators change from the 2010 to 2017
You should look at a video on a newer engine model for your timing
The first 2.4 was an laf motor
The later 2.4 is an Lea
You don't mention it in the video, but the valve retainers are tapered, and the thicker part should be towards the top.
Correct, it would be almost impossible to install wrong. I probably figured that part would be self explanatory lol
@@factoryratgarage You underestimate my ability assemble things wrong! Lol. They will go in that way, but the valve stem will stick up about 1/8" above the spring because the spring is compressed more.
@@daneast you are correct, I said ALMOST impossible but not impossible lol
Question. The camshafts have about 1/8" play from front to back (relative to the motor) before tightening them down. I centered them up so the wear line on the front of the shaft matched the outside of the head, and the machined parts lined up with the bearings they sit in. Still, it's a little concerning that I have 1/8" of leeway to choose where it sits exactly before I tighten it down. The tapered flanges on the front of the camshaft were maybe 1/16" away from the inside of the head like that. Do you know exactly how that's supposed to be positioned?
It sounds like you did everything fine
I was wondering the same thing.
I have the same problem, jumped time and all the valves are bent. pistons look ok, small groove but nothing bad. Im a little worried the pistons were messed up by smacking all of the valves, should i worry or just replace the valves and send it. otherwise is there any test i should run to see if the pistons are good?
I would just give the pistons a good cleaning and look the tops over real good, if you don’t see anything they’re more than likely ok. Pistons are pretty resilient. No test I can think of other than a leak down test but that would require all the valves and head be put back together and then you won’t have a definitive answer weather it’s piston rings or cracked piston.
I noticed that Rock Auto has intake valves priced around ten bucks each, while on Amazon, I found a complete set for sixty dollars. Since we're both working on budget builds, I wanted to get your opinion on the brands you purchased. Could you let me know which brand you went for and if you found them to be reliable? I value your expertise and would appreciate any insights you can provide.
If I remember right they were the labwork valves on Amazon, like $50 for a set. They were really nice for the price.
@@factoryratgarage ok I did see that one but this being my first valve job let alone buying valves I was a little gun shy. Thanks for the input.
@@xTheunknowntuberx np good luck
I added a link to the valves I used in the description I hope it helps.
Any progress on how this is running? New valves running good with a used head?
This has been running and driving everyday with zero problems since this complete rebuild. Thanks for watching
Those camshaft have 2 different numbers on them...
C30 /21. And C30/23..
Which 1 is exhaust and which 1 is the intake camshaft?
Thanks
One camshaft is longer than the other, the longer one is front and intake, the shorter one is rear exhaust. I didn’t go by the numbers, hope this helps.
Bent valves? Did it break the roller rocker finger follower things? Because that happened to a customer vehicle that jumped time. I'll be putting a head on it soon no doubt.
It broke almost half the roller rockers
Question....when you lapped the valves were the old seats in or were they removed. I'm about to do mine and was wondering if I need them in to lap the valves...tia
Same original seats. Mine lapped out just fine. Good luck with your build.
get a valve job so they actually seal .Grinding away wtih a drill makes things worse.
Nice video
What is RTB and what type of special sealant are you referring to that is mentioned in min 22?
I said RTV, not RTB. The sealant I was referring to was an Anaerobic sealant.
Thanks for vids. Big help as im currently doing all of this. 2011 equinox 2.4 Laf.
Question.
Is there an up and down to the valve springs? Not alot info for that. I measured both ends spring gap and one end is 2 hundredths less so put tighter end down on head seat. Is that correct?
Question.
On cam vvt oil seals. Info i found said important to put the seals splits opposite each other 12 and 6. Then service manual says put both splits at 12. Are they supposed to be 12 on intake and 6 on exhaust? Or 12 on both or doesnt it matter?
Thanks in advance for any info.
Also noticed you wearing CMU shirt in vid. Im in mid michigan. Can you come do this for me? Lol.
Your springs should be fine, typically unless there beehive springs they don’t matter, I just looked at my manual and it also says 12 o clock position, I can’t remember off hand mine as it was over a year ago but I’d go by the manual. And I’m from mid Michigan too, good luck on your build.
@@factoryratgarage
Thanks for info. I'm in saginaw wanna come check it out I'll pay for time?
Do these cylinders need honing? They look good and bearings look great but replacing anyway.
Dont wanna replace cap bolts either but manual say to.
@@grdcv I’m about hour and half away from Saginaw I appreciate the offer but I really don’t have the time right now. I didn’t hone mine I could still see cross hatching in my cylinders so I ran with it. My bearings looked good so I reused, also reused bolts. Still driving daily with no problems.
@@factoryratgarage
Thats cool figured longshot. Bought this at 90k got 100k out of it in 3 y yrs. On the clock 3000k oil changes. It broke black guide and top guide chain jumped 3 teeth. Couldnt get comp so head off. Valves good. Pan off to get pieces plastic out. Figured do rings and bearings. Orig bearings looked good. Hope works. Thanks for how to big help with 50 others and alot of confusion. Was surprised how clean everything was except oil rings. Thousands in oil changes and constant checking only way made it this long.
@@grdcv sounds like exactly what happened to me. You got this, good luck on your build.
have 2.4 ecotec on 2013 terrain. bent valves from timing chain. is it better to buy a rebuit engine or pay someone to fix this?
Most places won’t rebuild they usually just replace whole engine, if you find a place that will rebuild it might cost about the same as a replacement engine. I rebuilt mine cause I had the time and skills and it saved me a bunch of money. Good luck with your build.
Why stock Let'Hot Rod race round D Round😊😊😊
Didn’t see anything on valve stem hight
I thought I had that in there but they were spot on in size. Total length and the height above the lock groove was spot on.
Dude you need some power tools
What power tools do you need to rebuild a head ?!