Thanks! Even after 2 years your video is still helping people like me. I had the exact same burnt connection and resoldered it. My dryer works again! 👍
You saved me the cost of a replacement dryer! I found a person on ebay who solders the boards for $44, while looking for a used board. I sent the board off and it came back within days. If it hadn't been for this video, I would not have known what to look for on the board, and that even if I had to get a new board, it would have still been $100s less than a new dryer! I took a bunch of pics of the wiring set up and the whole re-install took less than 15 minutes. Thank you so much!
Tip to others .. with an exacto knife you can carefully scrape through the green trace close to the relay pin to give you much more copper area to solder. Also scrape along the relay pin to give more clean area for the solder to hold. If you have a little electronic friendly flux paste .. that does wonders too! Thanks to the OP for this excellent video. Saved me hundreds $$!!
I had the exact problem as obviously a lot of you have had, thanks for a great video but luckily enough that I soldered the heck out of it and completely covered the lil nub sticking up and plugged it all back up and viola I have a working dryer. But without your video I wouldn't have got anywhere. Thank you so much for sharing?
Had the error code show up and when the service technician showed up, he claimed the part was no longer available (OEM). Looked through Amazon and picked up the closest match which included the white plastic attachment box for the circuit board. My son and I tackled the project and was able to replace the control board in about 1.5 hours. Hardest part was carefully unplugging some of the original connections without damaging the wiring and realizing that both of the anterior small wiring connections had to be attached at a different 90 degree angle (no real problem). Great satisfaction having that dryer up and running. Great video and commentary..big thank you!.
Thanks Matt $250 dollars saved. I went to Lowe's and bought a Weller Cordless Battery Powered Soldering Iron for $22 and soldered the burnt spot on the board and it worked! I couldn't believe it.
Hi Matt. Even now your video was awesome. My unit had the exact same problem. Even down to the smoke spot. Re-soldering did it for me. Wanted to add for benefit of others, that the blown solder location is at the relay. The blowout took some of the PCB material out (the little copper highways) at the location, so just adding soldering will not help. Re-soldering should make sure the relay leg makes contact again with these. Even adding a shunt wire between the relay leg and the next location would work. My wife was helping me, and at the end said I was "f**ing incredible" . I am passing some of that compliment back here. Again, thanks!!
Awesome video! Thanks and done in a quick hour. Exactly the same short issue you had in your video. My wife will NEVER leave me know knowing I am a DRYER WIZARD!
Thank you so much for this video! I was going to buy a used dryer when mine quit working because I didn’t have the funds for a new one. You’re video saved me several hundred by buying a $160 part instead. 😊
Literally just fixed my whirlpool because of your video! Was about to buy a new dryer when it only cost me 180$ to buy this part instead. Thanks a ton for making this video
Im very thankful for your video! I ordered a new board on amazon for about $270. It will take a week to get but its better than $1800 for a new one. I appreciate folks like you and if you’re ever in orange Texas i will buy you a steak dinner!
Thanks so much for this video. I was able to solder the burned area and it fired right back up. Make sure you clean the burned area down to bare metal before soldering.
Thank you so much for this excellent video! After watching it, my husband was able to replace the control board, with the exact same burnt connection. Our dryer works again!!
Hi Matt - Thank you SO much for the well-done and informative video! Miracle of miracles, I was able to resolder the cold solder joints on the underside of the PC board and restore our dryer to service. Please know that my wife and I are tremendously thankful to you for taking the time to share your experience with others. God Bless!
I can't thank you enough for your video! We were able to save our dryer and about $1,000 by buying a $220 replacement board. It's been a month now and the dryer is working perfectly.
My dryer showed an F1 malfunction. Watch the video then went into the control board out when I did it show the classic signs that was shown in the video. I soldered a wire as shown in the video put board back in. it worked!! I'm quite shocked saving myself 150 to $200 on a control board
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY thanks for the video was a great help. Mine look just like the video solder joint blown. Had it fixed in less than an hour and most of that time was looking for my soldering iron
Thanks! I fixed a WED9500TC1 (electric) that is essentially the same. There's a few more connectors, and removing the metal plate didn't work too well. But I had the exact same spot fried and did the exact same fix. It took 5 or 10 minutes to remove the main 2-pin connector that seemed like it was welded on. I wish I could solder like you ... mine is a mud dauber nest!
Thanks, 2 years ago i used this to just resolver the lans, then i ordered the relay and tapped it to the back, today it went out again, so i replaced the relay and up and running. You saved me $$$. Thanks.
Thank You!! I love the way you teach! This 66 year old lady is going to fix her dryer she purchased for $100 dollars. I can do this with your video!! Thank you Matt!
Exactly the same issue. Same relay with blown soldered contact. Re-soldered and bingo, it worked. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Saved $100+ dollars on new board. You can also just order the relay that was blown and save a few bucks by soldering in new relay.
Stephen, in hindsight I wish I had kept the old board and tried soldering in a new relay. I believe there is a reason these blow, and either a new relay or board is the long-term fix. I’ve had no issues with the board now in several years since capturing this video.
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY My thoughts exactly. I suspected the relay was blown and was ready to order another, but it was fine. Not sure why the connection would blow but relay fine. Drawing too much current through a weak soldered connection perhaps? We will see how long it lasts.
Matt, I have to hand it to you. I took out my old circuit board and Son of a gun the relay was burned exactly the same place yours was. We ordered another board and a it should be here tomorrow. Stay tuned to the results as I am 100% confident it will work when I get it back together. Edited next day I cleaned the post and got my solder gun and re did the solder job. Installed it back in the dryer and wellah all fixed. saved up over 200 for a job that took more time to get the board out than to fix it. RUclips is the best. Thanks Matt
Glad it worked for you. Imagine what you’d pay to have a repair person replace the board after labor and their mark-up on the part! Lot’s of people probably go buy a new dryer!
This worked for me and the resolder did the trick no board replacement. It was exactly the same pin which is connected to a relay that turns on heavy amperage to I guess a motor. The board in the video looked more burned than mine but I'd bet the relay is still good just the trace got burned or fried. I small jumper wire to the two pins that it leads to would have probably brought the bad board back to life. At least that's what worked on mine but I didn't even need to add a jumper wire.
Question our part number is W10182365 and it’s not available we saw that yours was W10182366 not sure if the one we just ordered will work for our drier, since yours ended on 66 and ours ends on 65
Laura, the replacement part I used was W10174745, at the time I made this repair the research I did said this was a newer replacement part that was likely compatible with many previous models. That said I don’t pretend to be an expert on compatibility. The safest bet would be locating the model match on the board. The installation will be as you’ve seen in the video either way. Good luck.
Thanks Matt! Your video helped me fix my dryer within hours of it breaking because of this issue. Now I have one less problem in my household to deal with and my wife is very happy (she never stops doing laundry). Not to mention the money I saved. You are the man!
For anyone reading this in the future, I had the exact same issue as shown in the video and soldering that joint worked for my Whirlpool Duet with the board P/N: W10110641 Rev B. Thanks again for this video guide, you helped save my dryer!! 🙏
I know this is an old video, but my board was blown in the same exact solder joint as yours. 5 min of soldering later and my dryer is working again, can't thank you enough.
Well done Daniel, if you ever need to replace the board you will know it’s not that hard. Always glad to hear someone saved some money, especially this time of year!
Thanks for the awesome video, I was able to fix my board. Actually I think mine was worse than yours, there was a small piece of the circuit trace missing. I had to solder a piece of wire between the pin and the trace. Wasn’t sure it was going to work and guess what, it worked! Dryer is back in action and the wife is happy!
Well done! In hindsight I wish I had kept the old board to try additional attempts to salvage it, but at the time was pretty happy to fix it with new parts without calling a repair person.
Just repaired my dryer using the tips from this video and the comments.... The hard part for me was getting the leg on the relay hot enough to accept the solder
I soldered mine also and got it to work. Exact same joint. The solder did not seem to want to flow in there all that well. and I did clean it first and use flux. But it is working...right now anyway. And if it fails again, now I know what to do. Couldn't have been much easier to access. Thanks for the video. BTW other viewers, that part is around $300 with tax. Worth a shot!
Thanks a milliion! After I scrapped around the contact to remove the carbon build up, the soldering solution worked for me. I'll go ahead and purchase the new board since this appears to be an issue that will come back in time, but it keeps things going in a pinch. Really appreciate your time to provide the info.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I followed every step and was able to solder the back of the control board and my dryer is working great! You saved me a lot of money.
That’s great! Even though that part didn’t work out for me, I was just as happy to swap in the new board and still save money by not paying someone else’s labor and mark-up on the part.
Hi Matt - Thanks for this video. I had exactly the same issue, but I just replaced the relay on the board ($9) and the dryer started working again. Seems like a design issue to me.... probably the designers saved 5c by not adding a diode or a high imp resistor....
Matt I want to thank you very much for this video. You provided every detail I needed. When I took out the controller the burn mark on the panel was identical to your example in the video. I was on hold with Whirlpool Canada and it was taking some time so I though ok he tried a solder so I would as well. Still on hold plugged stiff back in and bingo works like a charm.
I have same dryer (11 years old now) I did the resolder on the exact component you did 2 years ago and it worked. Today the thermistor went bad, hopefully that's the problem.
Cant express enough thanks for this. Had exact same problem and fixed it in less than an hour. Amazing and so happy dodnt need to buy new one. God bless you and your family 🙏
You rock this video and another helped out. Saved me from buying a board as soldering was the trick. Tested with a multi-meter that there was a bad connection on the trace to the post that was burnt. crapped the trace to make sure there was a connection. I almost added a new wire to replace the trace (maybe I should have). But it seemed to work. Had this not worked I would have order that control board.
Thank you Matt! I am a complete idiot when it comes to working on or fixing anything. I mean a complete zero. I don't like to do it. I'm not the MacGyver type. That said, I decided that I would try fixing my own dryer as money's a bit tight. If you follow this video step by step, order the exact part that Matt recommends, take pictures to make sure you know where all the plugs go, then like me, you too can do this. It takes about an hour and a half after you get the part (Recommendation: Follow Matt's directions on how to pull the board and see if it blew out...my blew EXACTLY like and had the same burn mark as Matts). To fix: It's really just unscrewing bolts and screwing bolts back on and unplugging and then replugging plugs. First start by 1) removing the top of the dryer (that's all that's required...you don't need to take the back dryer panel off, you don't need to remove the drum, and on and on...just a few screws on top of the dryer to remove the top of the dryer), 2) follow Matt's video on how to unplug (and then later re-plug) the pieces from the board, and 3) remove the old mother board. If like in the video, the board has a burned spot, then move to 4) buy the new board (I just bought the exact one Matt had in this video's comment section from Matt), 5) plug in the new mother board, 6) re-secure the top, 7) re-tape the air vent and 8) turn the dryer on. It works just like new! Amazing! (This video really shows a novice how to do this step by step.) The new board (with inflation) cost about $250. But that's better than $1,000 for a new dryer or $400 for a service person and then an additonal $250 for the board on top of the service fee. If I can do this, you can do this! Good luck. Matt's awesome! RUclips is awesome too for creating the platform for video sharing!
Thanks Bill, still considerably cheaper than also paying a service call with labor, and the mark-up on the part, or worse yet buying a new dryer. Hope you can get more miles out of your current dryer!
If you read my detailed description I call out unplugging the unit before moving it away from the wall. I typically try to capture additional information in the written description. This goal of the video is to share the level of effort, tools and parts I used. This might be enough to give some the confidence to tackle this repair on their own, for others maybe not. Best of luck with your repair.
This was exactly my problem, only I just replaced the component on the board that burnt out - G8P-1A4P-12VDC Fully-Sealed PCB Relay 30A 250VAC - 12 dollars on Amzn. Resolder may not work - solder on a new relay as the old could be burnt out. Solder iron and solder is cheap. I had tested fuse, pully switch, door switch, etc. Then took out the manual, saw how to get it into diagnose mode, and saw the F01 fault code (bad control board) message. Found this video. That board is 200 plus bucks. Why not just replace the bad component? I still see the F01 code, but the motor now kicks on. Maybe there is a way to clear the fault codes? Thanks for the vid!!!
Bryan. We’ll done. I wish I had kept the old board, I’d give the relay replacement a go and keep it as a backup. At the time I did this I was simply trying to fix it fast and fix it to last. I was already satisfied in not calling a repair person who most certainly would replace the board and charge me labor and markup the part. My dryer had been running flawlessly for nearly 2 years since until I had to fix another issue just recently when my thermal fuse failed. Video posted on that one too for reference :)
I wish I had kept the old board to give it a try, some have been successful replacing just the bad relay. In the end I am still very happy to have fixed it myself, saved some money. A repair person most likely would’ve replaced the board at a much higher cost plus labor. I hope this helps you tackle the job and save some money too!
The power lead burned out on the power board relay. The trace and pad was burned away. You can fix with a soldering iron and small gauge wire. You solder the wire to the damaged lean and jump it over following the trace to the next lead. No need to remove relay at all since it is not damaged.
Wondering if you might be able to answer my question 🙃 I did all the steps, resoldered everything together and then a different part on the board blew and started smoking when I went to try and plug my dryer back in! Any tips??
Meagan, my hope in soldering the board was that it’d be a temporary fix while I ordered a replacement board. For me Soldering it didn’t work either. My advice would be to order a replacement control board, this is still far cheaper than buying a new dryer or paying someone else to service it (and replace the board). Best of luck.
I have not had this issue on my dryer, but have read that the door switch may be the cause of the 3 fast beeps/no start. try checking that the door close switch is clicking when you close the door. The light inside the dryer will shut off. With the dryer door open you can push the switch in and see if it is working, and even test start the dryer. Hope this helps.
I don’t know why this is the weak link on the board, possibly it’s by design, but know it’s very common. I hope you were able to successfully get your dryer back in service!
Question about the part that blew the connection: one reader calls it a resistor, another a relay. It’s rated at 30 Amps, so I’d call it a fuse. 🤔 Is it usually the same component that blows? On mine it is the black rectangular shape, top left, second from left. Is there a potential problem if you resolder and re-use it? Thank you.
Jana, I wish I had kept the old board. Would be worth a try to just replace the relay, but I have not done this, only researched it after I had replaced the board. This may be the part you need: amzn.to/3ovXpxe
Dryer model number YWED9300VU0 Actual control board number :w10182366 As the web , this is the new number that replace the old number : WPW10174745 I changed it , it was running but I got L1 error and got no heat
$152 for the Tire, $73 for the new steel wheel. The goal was to get something more stable to fit. For me this is cheap insurance because I take this vehicle places where tow trucks are not an easy option. Good luck.
Sandy, keep in mind my attempt to solder failed, but I was using what I had which is a 60/40 rosin core solder that I typically use when repair ing guitars… best of luck in your repair!
Hi, after Googling I've gotten numerous ways to check for error codes. So far, two different ways with two different results. Can you tell me how? I'm pretty sure mine could be the same problem, but my lights aren't blinking like yours at the beginning. I'm just trying to save myself some time and unnecessary expenses. Love your video! Thanks!!!
Mandy, I'm honestly not an expert here, just captured this video to share that I was able to fix this specific error code and how I did it. Are you getting an F01, or just having issues but no error?
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY my dryer powers on and when the start button is pressed it will click like it's going to start, a second or two later it'll click again, but it just never starts. I had it powered on and held the Start button for a few seconds and got an F01 code. However, if I do a code check by pressing the Manual Dry up and down arrows consecutively I get an F50 error code.
Thanks! Even after 2 years your video is still helping people like me. I had the exact same burnt connection and resoldered it. My dryer works again! 👍
Well done!
You saved me the cost of a replacement dryer! I found a person on ebay who solders the boards for $44, while looking for a used board. I sent the board off and it came back within days. If it hadn't been for this video, I would not have known what to look for on the board, and that even if I had to get a new board, it would have still been $100s less than a new dryer! I took a bunch of pics of the wiring set up and the whole re-install took less than 15 minutes. Thank you so much!
Tip to others .. with an exacto knife you can carefully scrape through the green trace close to the relay pin to give you much more copper area to solder. Also scrape along the relay pin to give more clean area for the solder to hold. If you have a little electronic friendly flux paste .. that does wonders too! Thanks to the OP for this excellent video. Saved me hundreds $$!!
I had the exact problem as obviously a lot of you have had, thanks for a great video but luckily enough that I soldered the heck out of it and completely covered the lil nub sticking up and plugged it all back up and viola I have a working dryer. But without your video I wouldn't have got anywhere. Thank you so much for sharing?
Well done Brandon. That is super satisfying right! Glad it was helpful.
Had the error code show up and when the service technician showed up, he claimed the part was no longer available (OEM). Looked through Amazon and picked up the closest match which included the white plastic attachment box for the circuit board. My son and I tackled the project and was able to replace the control board in about 1.5 hours. Hardest part was carefully unplugging some of the original connections without damaging the wiring and realizing that both of the anterior small wiring connections had to be attached at a different 90 degree angle (no real problem). Great satisfaction having that dryer up and running. Great video and commentary..big thank you!.
Well done, glad it was helpful.
Thanks Matt $250 dollars saved. I went to Lowe's and bought a Weller Cordless Battery Powered Soldering Iron for $22 and soldered the burnt spot on the board and it worked! I couldn't believe it.
I have the same battery soldering iron
Hi Matt. Even now your video was awesome. My unit had the exact same problem. Even down to the smoke spot. Re-soldering did it for me. Wanted to add for benefit of others, that the blown solder location is at the relay. The blowout took some of the PCB material out (the little copper highways) at the location, so just adding soldering will not help. Re-soldering should make sure the relay leg makes contact again with these. Even adding a shunt wire between the relay leg and the next location would work.
My wife was helping me, and at the end said I was "f**ing incredible" . I am passing some of that compliment back here.
Again, thanks!!
Nicely done Juan!
Awesome video! Thanks and done in a quick hour. Exactly the same short issue you had in your video. My wife will NEVER leave me know knowing I am a DRYER WIZARD!
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much for this video! I was going to buy a used dryer when mine quit working because I didn’t have the funds for a new one. You’re video saved me several hundred by buying a $160 part instead. 😊
So glad it helped!
Literally just fixed my whirlpool because of your video! Was about to buy a new dryer when it only cost me 180$ to buy this part instead. Thanks a ton for making this video
We’ll done Cj, always glad to hear it was helpful!
Im very thankful for your video! I ordered a new board on amazon for about $270. It will take a week to get but its better than $1800 for a new one. I appreciate folks like you and if you’re ever in orange Texas i will buy you a steak dinner!
You've got this Stuart!
I had the exact same issue and resoldered it. Back in business in about an hour! Unbelievable! Amazon also has my replacement board. Thanks
Thanks so much for this video. I was able to solder the burned area and it fired right back up. Make sure you clean the burned area down to bare metal before soldering.
We’ll done! Such a good feeling to fix something yourself and save a bunch of money.
Thank you so much for this excellent video! After watching it, my husband was able to replace the control board, with the exact same burnt connection. Our dryer works again!!
We’ll done, happy to hear about your success!
Hi Matt - Thank you SO much for the well-done and informative video! Miracle of miracles, I was able to resolder the cold solder joints on the underside of the PC board and restore our dryer to service. Please know that my wife and I are tremendously thankful to you for taking the time to share your experience with others. God Bless!
Bill, well done, I wish that had been my outcome too, but always pleased to hear that someone was successful and saved some money too!
I can't thank you enough for your video! We were able to save our dryer and about $1,000 by buying a $220 replacement board. It's been a month now and the dryer is working perfectly.
Well done, always happy to hear someone saved money!
My dryer showed an F1 malfunction. Watch the video then went into the control board out when I did it show the classic signs that was shown in the video. I soldered a wire as shown in the video put board back in. it worked!! I'm quite shocked saving myself 150 to $200 on a control board
well done, congrats!
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY thanks for the video was a great help. Mine look just like the video solder joint blown. Had it fixed in less than an hour and most of that time was looking for my soldering iron
Thanks! I fixed a WED9500TC1 (electric) that is essentially the same. There's a few more connectors, and removing the metal plate didn't work too well. But I had the exact same spot fried and did the exact same fix. It took 5 or 10 minutes to remove the main 2-pin connector that seemed like it was welded on. I wish I could solder like you ... mine is a mud dauber nest!
Thanks for the video. I just repaired my dryer by soldering a jumper across the bad run.
Thanks, 2 years ago i used this to just resolver the lans, then i ordered the relay and tapped it to the back, today it went out again, so i replaced the relay and up and running. You saved me $$$. Thanks.
Thank You!! I love the way you teach! This 66 year old lady is going to fix her dryer she purchased for $100 dollars. I can do this with your video!! Thank you Matt!
Good luck Marlene, you’ve got this!
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY I fixed it !!! Yea, just like you said to do. I am so happy. No more scary laundromat
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY I fixed it!!! Yea
@@marleneparker8835 Nicely done, how satisfying is that? So happy the video was helpful :)
My board went in the same location. Thank you so much for the fix, whirlpool wanted over $500 for a new factory board
Glad to hear it was helpful.
Exactly the same issue. Same relay with blown soldered contact. Re-soldered and bingo, it worked. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Saved $100+ dollars on new board. You can also just order the relay that was blown and save a few bucks by soldering in new relay.
Stephen, in hindsight I wish I had kept the old board and tried soldering in a new relay. I believe there is a reason these blow, and either a new relay or board is the long-term fix. I’ve had no issues with the board now in several years since capturing this video.
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY My thoughts exactly. I suspected the relay was blown and was ready to order another, but it was fine. Not sure why the connection would blow but relay fine. Drawing too much current through a weak soldered connection perhaps? We will see how long it lasts.
Matt, I have to hand it to you. I took out my old circuit board and Son of a gun the relay was burned exactly the same place yours was. We ordered another board and a it should be here tomorrow. Stay tuned to the results as I am 100% confident it will work when I get it back together. Edited next day I cleaned the post and got my solder gun and re did the solder job. Installed it back in the dryer and wellah all fixed. saved up over 200 for a job that took more time to get the board out than to fix it. RUclips is the best. Thanks Matt
Glad it worked for you. Imagine what you’d pay to have a repair person replace the board after labor and their mark-up on the part! Lot’s of people probably go buy a new dryer!
This worked for me and the resolder did the trick no board replacement. It was exactly the same pin which is connected to a relay that turns on heavy amperage to I guess a motor. The board in the video looked more burned than mine but I'd bet the relay is still good just the trace got burned or fried. I small jumper wire to the two pins that it leads to would have probably brought the bad board back to life. At least that's what worked on mine but I didn't even need to add a jumper wire.
We are going to try to repair, just ordered the same part you mentioned. Thank you for saving us $900 (the price for a new dryer)
Laura, you’ve got this!
Question our part number is W10182365 and it’s not available we saw that yours was W10182366 not sure if the one we just ordered will work for our drier, since yours ended on 66 and ours ends on 65
Laura, the replacement part I used was W10174745, at the time I made this repair the research I did said this was a newer replacement part that was likely compatible with many previous models. That said I don’t pretend to be an expert on compatibility. The safest bet would be locating the model match on the board. The installation will be as you’ve seen in the video either way. Good luck.
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY thank you.
We cancelled the one we ordered and we are trying to find something compatible
Thanks Matt! Your video helped me fix my dryer within hours of it breaking because of this issue. Now I have one less problem in my household to deal with and my wife is very happy (she never stops doing laundry). Not to mention the money I saved. You are the man!
Ryan, glad to hear it you got it sorted! It’s always satisfying to fix something a save a ton of money especially this time of year!
For anyone reading this in the future, I had the exact same issue as shown in the video and soldering that joint worked for my Whirlpool Duet with the board P/N: W10110641 Rev B. Thanks again for this video guide, you helped save my dryer!! 🙏
I resoldered the pin, and it is working like a charm! Thank you!
I know this is an old video, but my board was blown in the same exact solder joint as yours. 5 min of soldering later and my dryer is working again, can't thank you enough.
Well done Daniel, if you ever need to replace the board you will know it’s not that hard. Always glad to hear someone saved some money, especially this time of year!
Thanks for the awesome video, I was able to fix my board. Actually I think mine was worse than yours, there was a small piece of the circuit trace missing. I had to solder a piece of wire between the pin and the trace. Wasn’t sure it was going to work and guess what, it worked! Dryer is back in action and the wife is happy!
Well done! In hindsight I wish I had kept the old board to try additional attempts to salvage it, but at the time was pretty happy to fix it with new parts without calling a repair person.
Thanks for the video, repaired my dryer in a single morning! Very helpful!
We’ll done, always happy to hear the video was helpful!
Thank you Matt! As others posted, I had the same issue and similar burnt spot. Now to order the replacement board.
Glad it was helpful, you are halfway there!
Just repaired my dryer using the tips from this video and the comments.... The hard part for me was getting the leg on the relay hot enough to accept the solder
Thank you for this video I was able to fix my dryer by soldering the control board! Awesomeness
Well done, you saved a good deal of money, go treat yourself to something good!
You're the best!! Saved me from drying my clothes in the bathroom with a space heater 🤣
Glad to hear it was helpful! We’ll done!
I soldered mine also and got it to work. Exact same joint. The solder did not seem to want to flow in there all that well. and I did clean it first and use flux. But it is working...right now anyway. And if it fails again, now I know what to do. Couldn't have been much easier to access. Thanks for the video. BTW other viewers, that part is around $300 with tax. Worth a shot!
Thanks a milliion! After I scrapped around the contact to remove the carbon build up, the soldering solution worked for me. I'll go ahead and purchase the new board since this appears to be an issue that will come back in time, but it keeps things going in a pinch. Really appreciate your time to provide the info.
we’ll done, glad this helped you!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I followed every step and was able to solder the back of the control board and my
dryer is working great! You saved me a lot of money.
That’s great! Even though that part didn’t work out for me, I was just as happy to swap in the new board and still save money by not paying someone else’s labor and mark-up on the part.
Hi Matt - Thanks for this video. I had exactly the same issue, but I just replaced the relay on the board ($9) and the dryer started working again. Seems like a design issue to me.... probably the designers saved 5c by not adding a diode or a high imp resistor....
Great video. Exact same solder joint blew on my control board. Lucky enough that resolder worked!
you just saved me a shitload of money, thanx. Same problem, resoldered joint and is working good so far!
Matt I want to thank you very much for this video. You provided every detail I needed. When I took out the controller the burn mark on the panel was identical to your example in the video. I was on hold with Whirlpool Canada and it was taking some time so I though ok he tried a solder so I would as well. Still on hold plugged stiff back in and bingo works like a charm.
Ed, always glad to hear this was helpful!
Big thanks for this video. Blew out one of the solder joints from the same relay and was able to fix.
I have same dryer (11 years old now) I did the resolder on the exact component you did 2 years ago and it worked. Today the thermistor went bad, hopefully that's the problem.
Thank you!!!! Save me about $250 I was able to solder my connection you are the man!
Awesome, we’ll done!
Perfect direction... THANK UUUUUUU
by the part from Amazon for $257.... Whirlpool had it for $404
Thank you for this video! In mu case just soldering the relay helped. 15 minutes and my dryer works!
Fantastic!
Great video. My parts are ordered and Ill replace instead of the repair guy. Nice job on the video.
Cant express enough thanks for this. Had exact same problem and fixed it in less than an hour. Amazing and so happy dodnt need to buy new one. God bless you and your family 🙏
You rock this video and another helped out. Saved me from buying a board as soldering was the trick. Tested with a multi-meter that there was a bad connection on the trace to the post that was burnt. crapped the trace to make sure there was a connection. I almost added a new wire to replace the trace (maybe I should have). But it seemed to work. Had this not worked I would have order that control board.
Always glad to hear someone saved money!
Soldering worked for me. I had to clean the circuit board before soldering it.
We’ll done Jeremy!
Very helpful. Just ordered the part from Amazon. Thank you
Glad it helped
Just soldered up the bad spot on my daughter's dryer, I'll try it tomorrow
Awesome video!!! I wish all videos intended to be helpful were like this.
Thanks for the help! Saved me a lot of time and struggle.
thx very much.
vid still helping after 3 yrs.
Thank you Matt! I am a complete idiot when it comes to working on or fixing anything. I mean a complete zero. I don't like to do it. I'm not the MacGyver type. That said, I decided that I would try fixing my own dryer as money's a bit tight. If you follow this video step by step, order the exact part that Matt recommends, take pictures to make sure you know where all the plugs go, then like me, you too can do this. It takes about an hour and a half after you get the part (Recommendation: Follow Matt's directions on how to pull the board and see if it blew out...my blew EXACTLY like and had the same burn mark as Matts). To fix: It's really just unscrewing bolts and screwing bolts back on and unplugging and then replugging plugs. First start by 1) removing the top of the dryer (that's all that's required...you don't need to take the back dryer panel off, you don't need to remove the drum, and on and on...just a few screws on top of the dryer to remove the top of the dryer), 2) follow Matt's video on how to unplug (and then later re-plug) the pieces from the board, and 3) remove the old mother board. If like in the video, the board has a burned spot, then move to 4) buy the new board (I just bought the exact one Matt had in this video's comment section from Matt), 5) plug in the new mother board, 6) re-secure the top, 7) re-tape the air vent and 8) turn the dryer on. It works just like new! Amazing! (This video really shows a novice how to do this step by step.) The new board (with inflation) cost about $250. But that's better than $1,000 for a new dryer or $400 for a service person and then an additonal $250 for the board on top of the service fee. If I can do this, you can do this! Good luck. Matt's awesome! RUclips is awesome too for creating the platform for video sharing!
Always happy to hear that someone was able fix something themselves and save money! Thanks for the kind words.
Thank you! Awesome video and provide much needed info. Cheers
Excellent. 5 min job. The parts pretty expensive unfortunately Great video
Thanks Bill, still considerably cheaper than also paying a service call with labor, and the mark-up on the part, or worse yet buying a new dryer. Hope you can get more miles out of your current dryer!
dude, this was perfect. i even had the burn mark. Fixed. THANKS!
Glad it helped, and super satisfying to fix something yourself and save money!
Many thanks making this video I was able to solder mine and it worked
Thank you for the video . Saved us from purchasing a new dryer .
so glad it was helpful.
Ho man I did same thing following your steps and holala I didn't my self
Thankyou a lot for this video
Amazing job. You saved me the cost of a new dryer. Thank you.
Nice job Scott! Glad you got it handled, very satisfying to save that kind of money right!
Thank you so much mine just started this f01 yesterday you're awesome!
Thank you so much. This helped me tremendously
Awesome Laurie! It’s always nice to get feedback that a video has been helpful :)
Oh, yeah! Perfect video for my needs. Saved me some serious cash, my friend!
Always happy to hear someone fixed it themself and saved money! We’ll done.
Worked for me. Hope it holds up. Thank you!
thanks for the pointers, they were a tremendous amount of help
Glad it helped!
This was awesome!!!! Thank you so much, you just saved me several hundred dollars.....great video!!!!
I love saving money and the satisfaction of fixing it yourself is pretty nice too. 👍🏼 Glad it was helpful.
Well done, EXCEPT warn viewers to unplug the unit before taking the top off!!!
If you read my detailed description I call out unplugging the unit before moving it away from the wall. I typically try to capture additional information in the written description. This goal of the video is to share the level of effort, tools and parts I used. This might be enough to give some the confidence to tackle this repair on their own, for others maybe not. Best of luck with your repair.
Got me some brownie points with the Mrs. thx dude
Nice work Troy!
This was exactly my problem, only I just replaced the component on the board that burnt out - G8P-1A4P-12VDC Fully-Sealed PCB Relay 30A 250VAC - 12 dollars on Amzn. Resolder may not work - solder on a new relay as the old could be burnt out. Solder iron and solder is cheap. I had tested fuse, pully switch, door switch, etc. Then took out the manual, saw how to get it into diagnose mode, and saw the F01 fault code (bad control board) message. Found this video. That board is 200 plus bucks. Why not just replace the bad component? I still see the F01 code, but the motor now kicks on. Maybe there is a way to clear the fault codes? Thanks for the vid!!!
Bryan. We’ll done. I wish I had kept the old board, I’d give the relay replacement a go and keep it as a backup. At the time I did this I was simply trying to fix it fast and fix it to last. I was already satisfied in not calling a repair person who most certainly would replace the board and charge me labor and markup the part. My dryer had been running flawlessly for nearly 2 years since until I had to fix another issue just recently when my thermal fuse failed. Video posted on that one too for reference :)
Thank you for your help board was w10182366. Fixed it by soldering just like your video.
damn inflation.... now this part is $223 on Amazon. I'll check around - thanks for video!
David, I’ve seen the prices swing pretty dramatically based on supply, many independent sellers on Amazon, for sure shop around a bit. Good luck!
Thanks so very much
I think you could have wired the circuit and fixed the board. That said, great work fixing it!
I wish I had kept the old board to give it a try, some have been successful replacing just the bad relay. In the end I am still very happy to have fixed it myself, saved some money. A repair person most likely would’ve replaced the board at a much higher cost plus labor. I hope this helps you tackle the job and save some money too!
Thank you for doing this video, I was able to do this by myself and get it fixed.
Well done, so glad it was helpful!
Thank you sir! You have saved me a lot of cash, especially in these times of need
it’s empowering to fix something yourself, and saving money is always great, glad it helped you.
July 11 , 2022 Just tried this same model , re-soldiered connection on board , now good until who knows when .
Thank you God bless 👍🏿
The power lead burned out on the power board relay. The trace and pad was burned away. You can fix with a soldering iron and small gauge wire. You solder the wire to the damaged lean and jump it over following the trace to the next lead. No need to remove relay at all since it is not damaged.
This is a great video.Thanks Matt.
Great video, thanks
Do you know how to take this out. I don't want to break it. It doesn't fill it will come out.
Well done 👍.
Thank you for sharing sir! 😎🙌🏼
Wondering if you might be able to answer my question 🙃 I did all the steps, resoldered everything together and then a different part on the board blew and started smoking when I went to try and plug my dryer back in! Any tips??
Meagan, my hope in soldering the board was that it’d be a temporary fix while I ordered a replacement board. For me Soldering it didn’t work either. My advice would be to order a replacement control board, this is still far cheaper than buying a new dryer or paying someone else to service it (and replace the board). Best of luck.
Bought and installed new control board however it beeps 3 times when trying to start. Help!!!
I have not had this issue on my dryer, but have read that the door switch may be the cause of the 3 fast beeps/no start. try checking that the door close switch is clicking when you close the door. The light inside the dryer will shut off. With the dryer door open you can push the switch in and see if it is working, and even test start the dryer. Hope this helps.
I had the burnt spot on my WED9500TW3 Duet. Do you know why it blew in the spot?
Thanks for the great video! I have a new CP on order.
I don’t know why this is the weak link on the board, possibly it’s by design, but know it’s very common. I hope you were able to successfully get your dryer back in service!
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY thank you for the reply and info! I found a board for $175. It was easy to replace.
These dryers have the option to use electric or gas dryer setup correct ??
No. But a gas dryer still needs electricity to spin the drum and ignite the flame.
Question about the part that blew the connection: one reader calls it a resistor, another a relay. It’s rated at 30 Amps, so I’d call it a fuse. 🤔 Is it usually the same component that blows? On mine it is the black rectangular shape, top left, second from left. Is there a potential problem if you resolder and re-use it? Thank you.
Jana, I wish I had kept the old board. Would be worth a try to just replace the relay, but I have not done this, only researched it after I had replaced the board. This may be the part you need: amzn.to/3ovXpxe
El fusible que está lado en la parte de abajo ese se lo debe medir en continuidad si vale o no
Dryer model number YWED9300VU0
Actual control board number :w10182366
As the web , this is the new number that replace the old number : WPW10174745
I changed it , it was running but I got L1 error and got no heat
Hello friend, what is the price of this spare? Thanks
$152 for the Tire, $73 for the new steel wheel. The goal was to get something more stable to fit. For me this is cheap insurance because I take this vehicle places where tow trucks are not an easy option. Good luck.
Thank you, I just resolder the relay on the board and its back to business! Save a lot of money!
How does the blue plug unhook. It is nit a pinch type. thanks
Preston, I believe that one just pulls straight out, but been about a year since I made the video.
How did you remove that orange part?
What type of solder do you use?
Sandy, keep in mind my attempt to solder failed, but I was using what I had which is a 60/40 rosin core solder that I typically use when repair ing guitars… best of luck in your repair!
To fix the electronic board you need to replace the bad trace by adding wire
Hi, after Googling I've gotten numerous ways to check for error codes. So far, two different ways with two different results. Can you tell me how? I'm pretty sure mine could be the same problem, but my lights aren't blinking like yours at the beginning. I'm just trying to save myself some time and unnecessary expenses. Love your video! Thanks!!!
Mandy, I'm honestly not an expert here, just captured this video to share that I was able to fix this specific error code and how I did it. Are you getting an F01, or just having issues but no error?
@@MattsGarageMiscDIY my dryer powers on and when the start button is pressed it will click like it's going to start, a second or two later it'll click again, but it just never starts. I had it powered on and held the Start button for a few seconds and got an F01 code. However, if I do a code check by pressing the Manual Dry up and down arrows consecutively I get an F50 error code.
How do I solder the burnt spot I'm lost guys
Vanessa, I would see the soldering fix as a temporary fix and my full recommendation would be to replace the board.