Preparing a Lee Aluminum Mould For Bullet Casting
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- Опубликовано: 17 фев 2010
- We show you here how to prepare an aluminum mould for bullet ("boolit?") casting. The example mould is a Lee two-cavity 124gr, .356" model. Higher-quality version available at www.sanfranciscoliberalwithagun.com.
Хобби
Thanks Cowboy T. I listen to your podcast and I really appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. I can't wait to try producing my own cartridges. Thanks!
Thanks! This was originally made for a guy on the Ammosmith forums in South Africa. He's got the .358" version for .38 Special.
All those using Lee aluminum moulds: run that pot HOT! Depending on the mould, they like it between 750 and 800 degrees F, or about 360-380 deg. Celsius. The one used in this demo likes it closer to 800. My .45 Long Colt 200gr model, on the other hand, is happiest at closer to 750 deg.
Smoking moulds does work, and it does help, including when you run it at the proper temp. Another thing that helps is lapping the cavities with some fine-grit abrasive compound. They get really smooth, which eliminates the need to smoke the chambers.
Good job man.
I do the same as you do in the video, but found out, I get a better result, when I after smoking the mold take a q-tip and clean the surfaces with the vent lines very carefully; the vent lines are clogged with soot when you just leave the surfaces uncleaned and the air must be able to escape to get a mirror-like smooth boolit.
@ruckmanite2 No, you don't have to smoke and lube every time. Generally, I do so every few thousand rounds, when the boolits stop dropping out easily.
@762full
To a point, yes, a longer barrel will generally increase the speed, and thus KE, of a bullet. How much is dependent on the burn rate of your powder and how much of that powder you put in your cartridge. The speed will also depend somewhat on the temperature that day. It is entirely possible that a load that's subsonic from a handgun could go supersonic from a long gun.
I'd suggest investing in a chronograph and running your loads through it. Good chronies can be had for $80.
Thanks Cowboy T !
O.k., I messed up and allowed wax to seep into the cavities and burn while pre-heating the mold for casting session. Once I realized what I'd done, I shut everything down and did my best to scrub the burnt wax residue from the cavities under very hot tap water, dish soap and toothbrush. There's still a hint of brown color in the cavities, you think the mold will drop good bullets or should I take further measures? Thanks, AGW.:-)
We miss you Cowboy T :(
Thanks--I missed being on. Turns out I was the victim of Internet censorship and my Web sites got taken down. They're back up now...and this time, there's no Web hosting company to take 'em down!
Back on Twitter as well, thanks to Elon Musk restoring some sanity to that platform.
Well, Gov. Brian Schweitzer of Montana drives a Dodge Cummins and a Jetta TDI, so that's not unprecedented. :-)
I would suggest Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook as another resource until your handles come in. That's a pretty good book, and they do cover a lot of the Lee-style boolits as well.
Generally, every few thousand boolits, or when you feel things starting to stick. Doesn't have to be very often.
I just do around the holes where the lead will be.
I don't know what you tried, but I didn't say to pour lead into a mold that hadn't been burned out and don't do that. Burn the oil out (300 + deg. F.) then there is no residue left in the pores of the metal, then smoke it, but carbon is carbon. Carbon isn't oil. Oil becomes carbon and water when burned. The surface of the Al becomes Al2O3 once air can get to it to react. Lead reacts with Al2O3 to make glass. That makes bullets stick, and corrodes the mold. Keep a carbon coating on it.
@MrKaido93 Your method also works very well, and I've used a similar method on a couple of other moulds. It is a bit more optimal to apply the beeswax when the mould is hot. I'm also going to try out Daywalker's "Lee-menting" cavity polishing method. He says that you don't need to smoke the moulds after this procedure because the cavities become that smooth.
@762full
Possibly, but I haven't tried it myself.
You might consider looking at Ammosmith's "soft point" casting method over on his channel as well. He shows people how to cast something similar to what it sounds like you're describing.
@bapabob That's a good way to do it, and a couple of folks at the Cast Boolits forum have described something similar. I tried it on a brass mould a bit back with excellent results, so those of you watching this video would do well to consider bapabob's method, too.
Im new to this an the pins are falling out of my 30 cal dbl mold when using it.Even the inside mold pins.What do I do Tim
You also mentioned smoking the sprue plate as well 5:17. It's not shown in the video, but do you need to do the WHOLE surface of the sprue plate, or just the part around the holes where the lead will be?
Thanks for the vid!
how often should you do this to the mold.
Cowboy t, I am new to casting, in fact I have my pot and mold, and still getting stuff I need for my first cast, my question is...do you have to smoke and lube the Lee molds every time before use?
You don't have to lube the mould every time, just when you feel it start to stick. I find I have to do this every few thousand boolits.
Do u have to lubricate the mould before every use or is it a one time thing?
Not right away, it won't, unfortunately. What actually happens (I tried it) is that you get poor mould fill-out. Also, you want your boolit to be as consistently round as you can get it. If oils are carbon-caking on there, you will lose some of that roundness. Finally, sticky, coked-up oils are just that--sticky. You want the mould to be as non-stick as possible. That's why we smoke 'em, so the boolits'll plop right out.
"Scrub a dub dub" lol
I've tried smoking my molds but I did not feel that worked any better, infact I get my best jobs done when I have the mold as clean and degreased as it can get.
I don't get the point of cleaning the oil off the mold before coating it with carbon. The oil will evaporate or turn to carbon upon heating, no?
Sinker molds. Use never seize grease from auto parts store. Little tube like tooth paste. Is for bolt threads. Sinners fall out good.
Those pins are not supposed to fall out like that; there's something wrong with the mould. Give Lee a call and tell 'em what's going on. They'll make it right.
That's 'cause You're...Too Sexy For Your Mould! :-D
Smoking your mold is a waste of time. Run the mold at the proper temp and the bullets will fall out .... no problem.