Great video! I just picked up at 800, 2007 Mxz and was advised to check this. I am rebuilding the carbs and then working on this next. It was rebuilt a few years ago but hardly driven. You gave some good tips here about the air vent and the grease coming out. The 4 bolts would have a torque spec on that but not sure, a good rule of thumb is 17 ft lbs for most things that size.
Think there's a pacific amount of grease that goes in... The reason for the 10 - 20 MLS is because grease expands with heat and can push the seal out I believe.
What works good for a clutch holder is a small ratchet strap. My 03 800 has no retainer plate just the seal. They say you need to split the crank case to change it But if you put the seal in the Deep Freezer for two days like I did it shrinks just enough to get it in there without damaging it. Be quick when installing or you will beat up the seal. They say knowledge is gained by making mistakes well I must have lots of it. Lol 😂. Great 👍 vid.
Haha yes the freezer trick really does help. I have never used it on a seal though. Yep you definitely get knowledge from mistakes. I have made a few in my days....
their is a small 90 degree pipe with a cap on it that come out of the crank case behind the clutch. You can grease both pto bearings from this location with a syringe and a hose without taking the clutch off. The mag side, you need to remove the recoil/flywheel and take the top and bottom stator bolts out and add grease through the top threads, this will grease the bearings on that side. This should be done every year imho.
@@Schneids15 it won't hurt anything. It's good to get all the cap out. The only thing id suggest is tilt the sled towards you so the cap can run out a little better. This whole process works great.
Holy fuck how long did it take to blow that seal out. You're supposed to use a syringe for a reason to measure how much to put in. You're only supposed to put 15ml
I hadn’t. However i ran with the tube on to let grease flow out and push the old crap out the back side of the bearing. Then re capped. If i did it again i would use less. Was just trying to go by ski doo spec. However no issues.
@@Schneids15 When they came out with the 850 ETEC I saw a cut away of it at a Skidoo show and it didn't have the grease. I forget what year this was. Right beside it they had a cut away of the 600 ETEC and you could see the grease was still being used. It was packed in the bearings and there was no oil line to the bearing like on the 850 ETEC. Do you know what year they switched to it being oil fed like on the 850? Thanks.
Quick question man, did u actually press seal in tight with pvc pipe and rubber mallet or just line it up and allow those 4 retainer screws to pull it in tight . Cheer
@@Schneids15 ok thanks for reply, the seal was relatively hard to push by hand kept getting top half in bottom would pop out. so I just lined it up straight as I could and tightened the bolts like u did to pull the seal in tight
From what I've read on forums, the clutch side failures are much higher due to the strain on that side of the bearing. Both sides should be done for sure though.
Use aeroshell 22 grease it's a bit cheaper and honestly better grease they use it in aircraft wheel bearings that are under extreme Temps that a sled will never reach
Barium soap grease (isoflex) is pretty amazing on the data sheet. Good in low and high temps and in vaccuum and fuel immerse environment. Or run a full synth moly and repack (probably cheaper and smarter) Isoflex is ridiculously expensive
this is wrong in so many ways , brake clean wrong , packing bearing so full is squishing out wrong ... sucks when people make video's with miss information
Great video! I just picked up at 800, 2007 Mxz and was advised to check this. I am rebuilding the carbs and then working on this next. It was rebuilt a few years ago but hardly driven. You gave some good tips here about the air vent and the grease coming out. The 4 bolts would have a torque spec on that but not sure, a good rule of thumb is 17 ft lbs for most things that size.
Think there's a pacific amount of grease that goes in... The reason for the 10 - 20 MLS is because grease expands with heat and can push the seal out I believe.
Yes, 20 ML maximum!
What works good for a clutch holder is a small ratchet strap. My 03 800 has no retainer plate just the seal. They say you need to split the crank case to change it But if you put the seal in the Deep Freezer for two days like I did it shrinks just enough to get it in there without damaging it. Be quick when installing or you will beat up the seal. They say knowledge is gained by making mistakes well I must have lots of it. Lol 😂.
Great 👍 vid.
Haha yes the freezer trick really does help. I have never used it on a seal though. Yep you definitely get knowledge from mistakes. I have made a few in my days....
I have 22000KM on my 2007 Renegade 600sdi never repacked bearings , still running good !
Right on! I had 16K almost 17 on my 05 600sdi and all original. That was back probably 11-12 years ago. Ran great.
their is a small 90 degree pipe with a cap on it that come out of the crank case behind the clutch. You can grease both pto bearings from this location with a syringe and a hose without taking the clutch off. The mag side, you need to remove the recoil/flywheel and take the top and bottom stator bolts out and add grease through the top threads, this will grease the bearings on that side. This should be done every year imho.
Have you found any instructions on that?
I do believe your word, but (printable/watchable) instructions would help a lot.
@@sveindo several vids on you-tube, you can get the service and race manual from the skidoo website.
@@davidbrennan5 Thanks!
@@sveindo No problem, I have an 03 MXZ 800.
So you just send more in and hope the old stuff clears out just fine?
Great vid
A good check, brake clean running RPM jump means you have to do this or POP she goes.
It helps you if you roll the engine over as you go
That is a great idea👍🏻 i will have to use that next time. Thank you!
Any info about the mag side.
Nice work dude, thanks for the vid!
Can you do this to a 78 skidoo 440 fan cooled
great video but you are really not supposed to use any kind of solvant such as brake cleaner on the bearing cage
I understand but how is this hurting anything though if it is all dry before installing?
@@Schneids15 it won't hurt anything. It's good to get all the cap out. The only thing id suggest is tilt the sled towards you so the cap can run out a little better. This whole process works great.
Isnt that the same grease as white lightening grease?
awesome vid man.
Holy fuck how long did it take to blow that seal out. You're supposed to use a syringe for a reason to measure how much to put in. You're only supposed to put 15ml
Great video!
Is it only 2003 year I have a 2005? Great video.
No this does lots of years
Have you had any issues with your seal blowing out from the amount of grease that you used?
I hadn’t. However i ran with the tube on to let grease flow out and push the old crap out the back side of the bearing. Then re capped.
If i did it again i would use less. Was just trying to go by ski doo spec. However no issues.
I think you're supposed to use 10 - 15 ML, not the whole 500 gram tube.
Do you part # for the seal, mine is 600 ho sdi
What re the buddy kits you mentioned?
What isoflex grease u use ?? The nb 52??
Great vids thanks
Do you know if this applies to the new 2023 600 EFI? I just bought one.
Hey Steven. BRP went away from this setup and went to bearings that are oil fed. You don’t have this.
@@Schneids15 When they came out with the 850 ETEC I saw a cut away of it at a Skidoo show and it didn't have the grease. I forget what year this was. Right beside it they had a cut away of the 600 ETEC and you could see the grease was still being used. It was packed in the bearings and there was no oil line to the bearing like on the 850 ETEC. Do you know what year they switched to it being oil fed like on the 850? Thanks.
@@stevenpringle7813when they first came out with 850 etec thatz how they made it i believe it was back in 2017 they came out with 850 etec
Is isoflex only used if it doesn't have oil nipples ? Bcuz if it has them then it could clog the nipples
Quick question man, did u actually press seal in tight with pvc pipe and rubber mallet or just line it up and allow those 4 retainer screws to pull it in tight . Cheer
No just as i did in the video, push seal in by hand then pulled the seal in with screws.
@@Schneids15 ok thanks for reply, the seal was relatively hard to push by hand kept getting top half in bottom would pop out. so I just lined it up straight as I could and tightened the bolts like u did to pull the seal in tight
@@skidooman97Put the seal in the freezer for a couple of hours, it'll pop in by hand. Let it warm up to room temp before starting the sled.
How did you get the inner seal out without damaging it
The inner seal is on the inside of the bearing. You have to split the motor to get to it.
Doesn't anyone grease the mag side ? Should do both sides at same time .
It should be common practice to do the other side yes. I just do the pto side because it is subject to a lot of heat.
From what I've read on forums, the clutch side failures are much higher due to the strain on that side of the bearing. Both sides should be done for sure though.
Use aeroshell 22 grease it's a bit cheaper and honestly better grease they use it in aircraft wheel bearings that are under extreme Temps that a sled will never reach
Barium soap grease (isoflex) is pretty amazing on the data sheet. Good in low and high temps and in vaccuum and fuel immerse environment.
Or run a full synth moly and repack (probably cheaper and smarter)
Isoflex is ridiculously expensive
Have you used the aeroshell 22 with no issues?
@@chriscollins2778don't do it
Any issues after a season of ridding like this?
No sir
@@Schneids15 awesome. Did the same thing on the weekend
Where did you buy new screws?
MCB Performance sells a kit with new screws, seals, and grease
How many miles did you put on since you did this?
Probably about 20K or more
I mean 2 K or more sorry
is this for zx chassis to or just rev ?
a rev
You can do this in the ZX also. However there in no seal retainer . It just needs pressed in after seal has been frozen
Does 1 tube do both sides. (Enough for one sled?)
One tube does one size.
this is wrong in so many ways , brake clean wrong , packing bearing so full is squishing out wrong ... sucks when people make video's with miss information
What is the correct way sir?
I think it's Mrs. information
13k miles is less than 13 thousand k
How do you figure that? There is 1.6KM in a mile roughly.
@@Schneids15 13000000 can’t say thousand and add a K
Ski doo = junk
Polaris is smelly shit
What a constructive comment...
what did you just say@@sebrmz450
what did you just say