Yeah, now they're going to think more about smaller engines and turbochargers. It has always been more of a different philosophy rather than a lack of awareness.
As someone who once had a 68 Camaro with 5 of these things (rear disc, turn down exhaust, flex fan, locked rear, 4:56 gear) I can tell you this is all very good advice.
100% agree. If you need better brakes on road car just get front discs. I am not sure on GM but on Mopars you can use kits using factory front disks from late 70s and for Mustangs there is reproduction Kelsey Hayes brake kit used on GT350. Both work well in my experience and also fit under 15" wheels.
My 68 396 Camaro 12:1 L88 cam, 40lb flywheel, M20, 12 bolt with Summers Brothers spool and axles and 5.13 Eaton pro gears, equaled the quickest street car in town, never got beat.
We're just getting our channel going in a meaningful way, even though we've technically had it for years. Been too busy running a resto shop. Appreciate the support. More content to come!
@@gearheadgarageinc I agree straight to the point. No need for a spool or locked rear end on the street. Fast way to crash if you get rain. Also get too much attention from police with the tire noise turning corners.
This is what all YT videos should be- no b.s., and based on experience and knowledge. One of the best videos I’ve seen in years. This could have been titled “21 Mistakes A 16yo In 1980 Dreamed Of Adding To His Car.” Save the money, just put Thrush, Hooker and Hurst stickers on the windows and a CalCustom air cleaner.
You nailed it on all of these points! How many times do you see a beater with rims and a stereo worth way more than the entire vehicle that needs a ton of work to be safe or just run properly. Great vid.
Your advice about buying the right car is golden, so many people buy with their hearts, instead of their brains, then end up chasing their tail trying to fix all the ‘enhancements’ they spent big bucks on. Spend a year or so going to car shows, talking to vintage car owners, and researching on line, if you’re very lucky you may find some folks who will share the ups and downs of vintage car ownership. My efforts led me to a 68 -L79 Vette and I’ve been thrilled ever since, plenty of go for this old man, haven’t had to add any ‘hop up’ parts etc because it came with everything I needed….
Good advice. I am 65 years old and have been a muscle car guy since 15 years old. My first car was a 72 bright orange Duster that started my car enthusiast life. I have owned my 70 Challenger since 79 and my 70 GTX since 81. The facts you stated took me many Hot Rod magazines and years to learn. My cars are stock appearing with upgrades that enhance performance but with out suffering the maladies you have described. Mini starters, high energy ignitions, quality tires, better brake pads and shoes. I look forward to driving my 70s cars and know that the ride will be 70s quality. That is the experience of owning these classics. Improvement but still the 70s feel. Thanks for the video.
Except for the gears and the exhaust, he pretty much reflects what we have been saying since the late 90s...when all this modern stuff appeared. Nothing like the sound of a muscle car with dumps, converter and short gears. Its all nostalgia...remember the crappy times in the 70s when lots of people went stink bug stance and sidepipes. Yuk!.
I'm hoping part 2 includes putting in too much of a cam. A lot of people want that lope, but now have a car that does not have any low end, and no vacuum for their brakes.
There are exceptions to that. I have a 355 LT4 in a ‘97 Camaro SS that has a COMP XFI 292 cam. I built everything to match and play well together, and it is very streetable, has power everywhere, and has a radical idle. I did have to add a vacuum pump for brakes, but I have no regrets at all.
Lucky you! I don't have the best luck with anything that has a ratcheting caliper e-brake....they feel firm, bunt don't seem to hold all that well. Wilwoods have been my favorite thus far
Wilwood dyna on the rear of my falcon. I was surprised the E-brake shoes were like real drum shoes whereas a lot of modern rear-disk e brakes are a more simplified mono-shoe without all the extra springs and such. Whatever, it works and I think the shoes are bigger than the stock falcon 9” rear shoes also.
I'm all for getting a car up to date with some modern upgrades and improvements. Yet, I often wonder what people were thinking when they did certain changes.....and, understandably, most people aren't necessarily in the know.
@@independentears He's not wrong in a way. If you leave the stock front and just upgrade the rears to disc, it won't be a huge increase...but it will limit or minimize brake fade if you have to jam on the brakes multiple times within a short amount of time. If you upgrade the fronts to a good 2 pot caliper or more with the appropriate master cylinder and brake booster, it is absolutely a worth while upgrade. These old cars brake and handle like an elephant on roller skates. Good front an rear brakes are highly under rated when it comes to modifications.
I'm a disc brake fan, on all corners! I just see so many people do a poor install. Throughout the comments, I share that I usually run Wilwoods - they're phenomenal. Large drum brakes ACTUALLY have more stopping power.....but I can't remember the last time i personally installed larger drums instead of discs. But many do, with great satisfaction. Thanks for the comments y'all
That's true. Quality counts! Check out the comment below, as I don't hate flex fans, but I've lost some skin doing maintenance repairs over the years.....and many horror stories in the comments!
My father had a classic car restoration business/Speed Shop and every point is spot on. Customers often think if a little is good, then more is better. In reality they often end up with a car that performs worse and are not happy with the end result.
Also, chrome or shiny parts on the engine. They're usually chinesium that looks bad in a few months, they're not well made, valve covers will leak, oil pans will leak, stuff wont align. Take a few hours to make you stock parts look good, it's cheap and looks good, or pay for proper quality parts that will be an actual upgrade beyond just looks.
I always chuckle when I look under a car to see why the oil pan is leaking, and see there's a chrome pan under there!!! Ooh, so shiny.......cuz its covered in oil!! People need to learn to prep those surfaces, and to use good washers in an attempt to get a positive seal!!
The bigger wheels totally ruin the look of the vehicle and as you said the ride also. The only thing worse is the huge front tire on HD motorcycles. Thank You for a great video.
Wow, this was an impressive video with excellent expert advice. You identified the errors, explained them succinctly and offered excellent alternatives. Really well done.
I like to keep any car as original as possible. If it's a classic I love the original AM radio in the dash. I just run 2 loose wires from the fuse block to my aftermarket amp to my loose boxed 6X9s and it sounds great - no permanent mods to the car that will cause you to lose any value.
As an old fart that has built several hot rods since the late 70's I have learned my lesson the hard way that every one of your recommendations is correct. The other thing I do not like on classic muscle cars is 100" diameter homo rims with rubber band tires that have a they/them pronoun.
Homo rims and they/them (zim/zer, anyone...?) rubber band tyres - LOVE the expression! Can I use it elsewhere, please? Agreed on your assessment - they look retarded, and ruin the car.
Great video I was thinking about making one of those videos because I've made every one of those mistakes LOL. Well not really everyone but it was a great video and I liked and subscribed
All good common sense upgrades. I always liked my rear drum brakes with the emergency system that never fails. Back in the day we used to swap them out for 12" truck drum brakes.
Excellent upgrade! Larger drums have increased stopping power. Most people don't realize that drums actually have more stopping power. Rear disc brakes look cool, and they do cool down faster. Done right, they're a great upgrade, but rear drums get the job done. I love discs up front so my car stops STRAIGHT!
Thank you for this video I completely agree with everything you’ve shared. I have been running my commercial business for 30 years in march. Educating people about their choices without insulting them upon their choices is where we become head shrinks at times to guide customers to success outside pre written contracts and invoices.
This list started out describing my 69 Mustang. When I swapped out the drums on the front the improvement was huge, so naturally I thought rear discs would make a similar difference - almost no noticeable difference.
Most of this stuff belongs on a racecar. None of these things are bad just application specific. Great video. I agree with all of this. For a full time street car it all makes sense. Only thing i disagree with is rear disc brakes. Nothing wrong with it when the correct system is chosen for the use the car will see. If there are ever any questions about what is right for your car most of these companies are very helpfull if you call them.
Totally agree on the rear disk brakes. WHY? I have an old 86 Olds 442, 68 350 Olds, runs 12.60s with slicks and the rear drums have stopped it just fine for the past 30 years. Brake shoes last forever and yeah, the parking brake is nice. MSD box? Never understood the point of one of those on a 12-13 sec street/ strip car. Carb? For low end torque, I'm happy with a 650 DP and a stock AC delco mechanical fuel pump. Stereo? The stock Delco ...with cassette...and some aftermarket 6x9 speakers, sounds just fine. Very practical , no nonsense video.
Great info. I changed the rear gear in my 66 Mustang from 3:1 to 3.23 to one. Perfect amount of snap with 200 hp (gets a little scratch in 2nd easily), and does well on the freeway.
Great info any gearhead or potential gearhead needs to know. Some of us grew up being taught these things, but I have a lot of friends that are just now getting into cars in their late forties and have never been taught the basics.
If only I could find a checklist or buyers guide or something to help me when buying on old car, like an Old Classic Car Purchase Inspection Checklist and Buying Guide somewhere. Holy Smokes my Man, WE GET IT! You have a checklist.
I see so many people buy cars without knowing what they're getting into....... Just hoping to share a little advice, help people enjoy the process better
Great advice, especially with the flex fans. I was at a car meet a guy revved his engine, loud bang and the car stalled. He looked around didn't notice anything wrong. He asked me for a jump, I went to hook up the cables and one of the cables was cut completely. A blade from the fan flew off and cut the cable.
Once after washing my car we were checking the timings curve, and at 3000 rpm the air flow / vibration pulled a towel off the bumper and into the fan. It exploded, luckily nobody got hurt.
I'm keeping my '69 AMX as is. Much of it is still original save for upgraded pistons in its 390 (it feels as though it may have a mild cam), an Offenhouser intake manifold, Edelbrock 1405 carb and Flowmaster muffflers. A previous owner put in a fancy car stereo with rear speakers (and used the oil light feed to power it - not too smart), but by the time I got it, they'd put back the factory AM radio and left the rear speakers in. I tapped off the Radio post on the fuse panel to power the radio and reconnected the oil light (and scored an original Rally-pac gauge set on ebay).
my experience has taught me to avoid the "kits" when doing modifications to a car classic or new. If you want to add something use a stock part from another vehicle and retrofit it. Is more work, requires some fabrication. But the result is just so much better. Since your doing it yourself to your car it will fit your car. Your in control of the quality. Your skills will increase dramatically. Will give you a truly unique ride. You'll save yourself some money.
Wow,glad I came across your video. You are direct and address the particular items in a common sense manner. I kiddingly refer to my shop as shoestring garage because that's how I build them, don't need all those high dollar BS improvements . Just a little above "stock" is my old school appeal.
Indeed. Cars laying frame look SICK! But, I've seen SO MANY problems. I prefer to get the car low as I can without dragging or rubbing. I appreciate the comments!
That thing has a butchered install. Mine sits all winter aired up and the only pressure change is because of the ambient temp change. Make the water drain easily accessible helps too. You've got to decide what kind of spring feel you want with the pressure ,and then set the ride height to where you want and do an alignment there. Then remember when you slam it or lift it from there while driving it'll probably cause some odd tire wear due to suspension geometry. They work nice for years, if properly installed.
I love this video! Right on dude! And as far as rear diffs: ditch the old limited slip AND the locker. Do yoursellf a favor and replace whatever you have with an Eaton Tru Trac. Its a gear type torque sensing limited slip, requires no friction oil additive. You can get a a drop in version on many different ford/gm etc. cars. It’s wonderful!
Finally, someone else who looks at the downside of air suspension. Also, about 70% of the braking power is on the front brakes, so I see little reason to sink a bunch of money into changing the rear braking system.
Great vid! Lotsa info, quickly. Good advise for making cars enjoyable to drive, which most people will be happier about than simply having impressive-sounding parts.
@ I don’t know if you’ve covered this in your other videos, but I think an interesting and controversial topic would be regretting having too much power. Like motors that are expensive to build, tend to overpower the handling and braking, and aren’t that much fun to drive. To me, balancing horsepower and handling/braking is best for long-term enjoyment and driving.
@@jonmustang So true! I jut Dyno'd a '69 Camaro that put 750hp to the rear last week. Such a wicked, supercharged LS 427......but now it can't get close to hooking up at 1/2 throttle. Exhilirating, but useless!!!!
What a great video! I see people wasting money on so many of these kinds of unnecessary and dubious "upgrades." Over-carburetatuon is the most common myth I see people fall for. You don't need a 750 double punper on most small blocck motors unless you've really worked the heads for volumetric efficiency. But so many of these other mods are just as bad in terms of ROI. There is a time and a place for some of these items. But you're better off spending money on asthetic upgrades like interior and paint than mechanical stuff that doesn't really add to the cars reliability or driveability.
I agree with all you said and showed except for the flex fan I have always had great experiences with them . I have an olds that had a problem over heating when stopped in traffic ,I like channel and solid advice 👍🏻👍🏻
This is a nice video. It really makes sense. I'm a fan of factory stock so any upgrade really needs to be more than justified, especially if it can be seen.
Thanks. Enjoy the Camaro!! I had the same model for a short time when I was young. Handled so much better than the '67 I had at the same time and kept forever
Some good points here. About cooling...a clutch driven fan does not turn at more rpm than a flex fan. A fan clutch will slip in most driving situations to minimize drag. A fan clutch will lock in warm weather and/or in traffic so the fan turns at waterpump speed. However a flexfan will always turn at waterpump speed because there is a solid connection (no clutch) with the waterpump pulley. A flexfan usually gives better cooling, but you may not like the wind noise, and they are not fuel efficient either. But both a flexfan and a clutch driven fan should be surrounded by a shroud for better cooling and safety.
A fan clutchbworks off heat. When it get hot from engine heat it locks up, no matter the rpm. Also a fixed blade clutch fan will cool mich better than a flex fan, especially at higher RPM. A flex fan flattens out as RPM increases and stops pulling air. In fact it turns into a wall behind the radiator BLOCKING airflow. Also a flex fan is more than likely to Crack and fly apart at higher RPM. And the shroud is a very important part to making sure the radiator cools. It makes the fan pull more air across the core.
With a clutch fan the _engine_ can turn more easily at high RPM, because the clutch disengages. A fan that always turns at water pump speed wastes a lot of energy. When a fan clutch disengages it could be worth 5% more power, or fuel savings.
@@WVXL64 Correct, a shroud should be used for better cooling. I mentioned safety because he talked about hurting his hand being near the fan with the engine idling. I have seen a factory flex fan loosing a blade, but not on an aftermarket flex fan. But possible I guess. I have experimented with flex fans in the past on a few classic cars. In both cases they ran much cooler, both in city traffic and on the highway. Unless the temp gauges in both cars were lying to me...
@@MrZdvy Thamks for commenting. Flex fans do move quite a bit of air, surely more than a stock 4-blade seen on many early classics. A good shroud is always such a key complement to any fan. Thanks for sharing your experience!
solid advice. i agree 100%. i even made the msd box mistake on my first restomod. simplicity and reliability should always be at the top of the list. only do things that have a PURPOSE to your build.
Something I learned from ChrisFix is the adding of a 2nd set of brake calipers. Normally this is done to cause drifting, but the solution in replacing rear drum brakes where the parking brakes are you would replace with a 2nd brake caliper to act as the parking brakes.
Just because you can doesn’t mean you should. My personal ‘worst of’ is the wagon wheel and rubber band tire combos. Classic cars need meat as in a sidewall profile to look proper. Anything larger than a 17” wheel is just not going to look right. Not to mention braking, ride quality and even handling. If you reengineer the suspension/brakes to compensate you no longer have a ‘classic car’.
Seems like so many people don't want to see anything larger than a 17" wheel.......but even those are getting way more popular. Surprisingly, there aren't all that many tire size selections available in a 17". Way more options in 18's, so they're getting to be pretty commonplace. Any which way, some sidewall is still desired in my book!
me too. that looks like a friggen toy. give me the classic 15" with plenty of meat and either rallys or american torque thrust any day for the classics. and the road scraper profile is just asking for problems.
Great video. So true about the rear discs.Parking brakes are critical, don't ever run a street car without it. Make it work with aftermarket rears, or you'll be sorry.
I just got my airride on my dually done. So excited. This took the wind out of my sail. Lol. It's gotta be a better ride than the dumptruck springs it had. I'll mess with it for that reason.
This randomly popped up on my feed. Great recommendations. I am not an old school hot rodder, but I study automotive culture and everything you mentioned are things I notice. Oldest cart I built was a 96 grand marquis with everything built before adding a turbo and then adding built motor. I did suspension first, then brakes, then transmission and drive train, moderate sound system. Then did wheels and tires and proper hub centric H&R spacers. Anyway, I have seen so many builds and you put so much into context that I wondered about, like the carburetors and the air ride. Well done! Only advice is to buy a wireless mic, they sell them on amazon for 30 or get a semi pro one like a rode wireless 2go and you will sound a full pro RUclipsr
Sounds like built yours in the proper order! ....and, yeah - I had purchased a wireless mic and it sounded even worse!! Definitely could use some better sound quality, as my shop is noisy!
If I've got a healthy engine, a high-stall or a manual trans, I'm not scared of a big carb. Mut MOST cars respond well to a slightly conservative carb selection. Seems like all the carb CFM calculators you find online always push you to a smaller carb anymore.
Thank you so much for covering how bad over-sized tires are, people don't realize you are raising your center of gravity putting more stress on your suspension and your making your rear end gear ratio worse. I have a c10 with 15x7 rally wheels and I put one size smaller than stock tires on my truck. Because it lowers my truck half an inch and makes me rear gear ratio better, and makes my brakes work better!
Well said. Done right, big wheels & tires, with upgraded brakes can really get the job done. But some of the smoothest riding cars have stock 15's and mild suspension upgrades.
@@The0utmode If you're gonna run bigger wheels and low profile tires, hopefully the suspension is upgraded to accommodate! You CAN have good ride quality with the proper springs & swaybars......some sidewall is a good thing, but too much doesn't help either!!
Well that killed 90 percent of the advertisements in Hot Rod / Muscle car magazines....
cheers for STOCK cooling, With a Fan shroud.....!
Not really. You just have to be intelligent enough to know if it's what fits your intended goal, a problem that plagues 50% of the planet.
Yeah, now they're going to think more about smaller engines and turbochargers. It has always been more of a different philosophy rather than a lack of awareness.
@@OxBlitzkriegxO There's a sucker born every minute.....No magazine is going out of business anytime soon.
😂😂😂
As someone who once had a 68 Camaro with 5 of these things (rear disc, turn down exhaust, flex fan, locked rear, 4:56 gear) I can tell you this is all very good advice.
Thank you!
I think I used to have that same car!!
I'm speaking from experience here :)
100% agree. If you need better brakes on road car just get front discs. I am not sure on GM but on Mopars you can use kits using factory front disks from late 70s and for Mustangs there is reproduction Kelsey Hayes brake kit used on GT350. Both work well in my experience and also fit under 15" wheels.
My 68 396 Camaro 12:1 L88 cam, 40lb flywheel, M20, 12 bolt with Summers Brothers spool and axles and 5.13 Eaton pro gears, equaled the quickest street car in town, never got beat.
@@davidkeeton6716you’ve seen a Sasquatch too I’m sure……
I expected a crap video because I wasn’t familiar with the channel. The reality is that this is super solid info that I totally support.
We're just getting our channel going in a meaningful way, even though we've technically had it for years. Been too busy running a resto shop. Appreciate the support. More content to come!
@@gearheadgarageinc I agree straight to the point. No need for a spool or locked rear end on the street. Fast way to crash if you get rain. Also get too much attention from police with the tire noise turning corners.
I like the way you got straight to the point 👍🏾❤️
Thank you!
This is what all YT videos should be- no b.s., and based on experience and knowledge. One of the best videos I’ve seen in years. This could have been titled “21 Mistakes A 16yo In 1980 Dreamed Of Adding To His Car.” Save the money, just put Thrush, Hooker and Hurst stickers on the windows and a CalCustom air cleaner.
Thanks for the response!
I forgot to add the decals to the list!!!!
The old joke us parts/speed equipment guys always told was based around Holley floormats and some chrome exhaust tips make it so much quicker.
Big rims on classic cars will always make you puke 🤢🤮
This ⏫️
You nailed it on all of these points! How many times do you see a beater with rims and a stereo worth way more than the entire vehicle that needs a ton of work to be safe or just run properly.
Great vid.
It's so true!
Your advice about buying the right car is golden, so many people buy with their hearts, instead of their brains, then end up chasing their tail trying to fix all the ‘enhancements’ they spent big bucks on.
Spend a year or so going to car shows, talking to vintage car owners, and researching on line, if you’re very lucky you may find some folks who will share the ups and downs of vintage car ownership.
My efforts led me to a 68 -L79 Vette and I’ve been thrilled ever since, plenty of go for this old man, haven’t had to add any ‘hop up’ parts etc because it came with everything I needed….
Buy the most car you can "afford".
But be smart about it!
Good advice. I am 65 years old and have been a muscle car guy since 15 years old. My first car was a 72 bright orange Duster that started my car enthusiast life. I have owned my 70 Challenger since 79 and my 70 GTX since 81. The facts you stated took me many Hot Rod magazines and years to learn. My cars are stock appearing with upgrades that enhance performance but with out suffering the maladies you have described. Mini starters, high energy ignitions, quality tires, better brake pads and shoes. I look forward to driving my 70s cars and know that the ride will be 70s quality. That is the experience of owning these classics. Improvement but still the 70s feel. Thanks for the video.
Except for the gears and the exhaust, he pretty much reflects what we have been saying since the late 90s...when all this modern stuff appeared. Nothing like the sound of a muscle car with dumps, converter and short gears. Its all nostalgia...remember the crappy times in the 70s when lots of people went stink bug stance and sidepipes. Yuk!.
Thanks for watching & commenting!
I'm hoping part 2 includes putting in too much of a cam. A lot of people want that lope, but now have a car that does not have any low end, and no vacuum for their brakes.
Good suggestion! And you'll have to stay tuned!
There are exceptions to that. I have a 355 LT4 in a ‘97 Camaro SS that has a COMP XFI 292 cam. I built everything to match and play well together, and it is very streetable, has power everywhere, and has a radical idle. I did have to add a vacuum pump for brakes, but I have no regrets at all.
Every rear disc conversion I’ve performed has the e-brake cable kit installed. No problem.
Lucky you!
I don't have the best luck with anything that has a ratcheting caliper e-brake....they feel firm, bunt don't seem to hold all that well.
Wilwoods have been my favorite thus far
Wilwood dyna on the rear of my falcon. I was surprised the E-brake shoes were like real drum shoes whereas a lot of modern rear-disk e brakes are a more simplified mono-shoe without all the extra springs and such. Whatever, it works and I think the shoes are bigger than the stock falcon 9” rear shoes also.
That was really an excellent explanation of what not to do to your car. What people think is cool is not always a wise application. I concur
I'm all for getting a car up to date with some modern upgrades and improvements. Yet, I often wonder what people were thinking when they did certain changes.....and, understandably, most people aren't necessarily in the know.
One thing that he forgot to mention about oversized wheels is THEY'RE UGLY AS FK
As someone that had drums in the rear, upgrading the fronts and rears to disc was one of the best decisions I made.
Hes not that smart if he thinks drums will stop an old heavy car better than disk
@@independentears He's not wrong in a way. If you leave the stock front and just upgrade the rears to disc, it won't be a huge increase...but it will limit or minimize brake fade if you have to jam on the brakes multiple times within a short amount of time. If you upgrade the fronts to a good 2 pot caliper or more with the appropriate master cylinder and brake booster, it is absolutely a worth while upgrade. These old cars brake and handle like an elephant on roller skates. Good front an rear brakes are highly under rated when it comes to modifications.
You misheard him.
I'm a disc brake fan, on all corners!
I just see so many people do a poor install.
Throughout the comments, I share that I usually run Wilwoods - they're phenomenal.
Large drum brakes ACTUALLY have more stopping power.....but I can't remember the last time i personally installed larger drums instead of discs.
But many do, with great satisfaction.
Thanks for the comments y'all
That's true. Quality counts!
Check out the comment below, as I don't hate flex fans, but I've lost some skin doing maintenance repairs over the years.....and many horror stories in the comments!
My father had a classic car restoration business/Speed Shop and every point is spot on. Customers often think if a little is good, then more is better. In reality they often end up with a car that performs worse and are not happy with the end result.
Well said.
There's usually a recipe that works, otherwise you end up with a bit of a Frankenstein,
Also, chrome or shiny parts on the engine. They're usually chinesium that looks bad in a few months, they're not well made, valve covers will leak, oil pans will leak, stuff wont align.
Take a few hours to make you stock parts look good, it's cheap and looks good, or pay for proper quality parts that will be an actual upgrade beyond just looks.
I always chuckle when I look under a car to see why the oil pan is leaking, and see there's a chrome pan under there!!! Ooh, so shiny.......cuz its covered in oil!!
People need to learn to prep those surfaces, and to use good washers in an attempt to get a positive seal!!
All super-solid advice. The makings of a great channel here.
Appreciate the kind words, glad you liked the video!
The bigger wheels totally ruin the look of the vehicle and as you said the ride also. The only thing worse is the huge front tire on HD motorcycles. Thank You for a great video.
Agree. Those huge newer style wheels look awful on an older car like that Chevelle…..or pretty much any other car for that matter.
I thought that i was the only one who felt thus way, i would add slamming the car too. Slammed cars looked ridiculous IMO
in your opinion. and thats it.
Wagon wheels!
Good stuff man. Keep the lean vids coming. Helping the others out here is a good deed.
Happy Holidays.
Thank you and happy holidays to you as well!
All worthy suggestions. I'm watching pt2
Great, thank you!
Wow, this was an impressive video with excellent expert advice. You identified the errors, explained them succinctly and offered excellent alternatives. Really well done.
Thanks!
I like to keep any car as original as possible. If it's a classic I love the original AM radio in the dash. I just run 2 loose wires from the fuse block to my aftermarket amp to my loose boxed 6X9s and it sounds great - no permanent mods to the car that will cause you to lose any value.
As an old fart that has built several hot rods since the late 70's I have learned my lesson the hard way that every one of your recommendations is correct. The other thing I do not like on classic muscle cars is 100" diameter homo rims with rubber band tires that have a they/them pronoun.
Seems like the best remembered lessons are learned the hard way - been there, done that.....
More than I'd like to admit!
Homo rims and they/them (zim/zer, anyone...?) rubber band tyres - LOVE the expression! Can I use it elsewhere, please?
Agreed on your assessment - they look retarded, and ruin the car.
These are some really good tips.
Nice vid man.
Thanks!
Great advice. Thank you. I was planning on a turn down exhaust just to save money. I’m gonna run them to the rear now for sure
YOu won't regret it.
Plus, it's cheaper done right the FIRST time!
Love the channel...new subscriber.
Where ya'll from? Heard you say "hella"...serious Bay Area lingonright there.
Great vids. Thanks!
Glad you like it and thanks for the sub. We're in Sacramento - originally from San Francisco - so you are correct!
@gearheadgarageinc Awesome man, from Oakland, so I caught the language immediately 😃🤙
Thanks for the great videos.
Great video I was thinking about making one of those videos because I've made every one of those mistakes LOL. Well not really everyone but it was a great video and I liked and subscribed
Thanks for subscribing!
From another shop owner I 100% agree!
Much obliged!
It's always good to hear from other shop owners
Nice informative video, thanks for taking the time to do it.
All excellent advice. Especially the rear disc brakes.
solid, useful and to the point - great work.
Thank!
Trying to keep it short, sensible & simple
All good common sense upgrades. I always liked my rear drum brakes with the emergency system that never fails. Back in the day we used to swap them out for 12" truck drum brakes.
Excellent upgrade! Larger drums have increased stopping power. Most people don't realize that drums actually have more stopping power. Rear disc brakes look cool, and they do cool down faster. Done right, they're a great upgrade, but rear drums get the job done. I love discs up front so my car stops STRAIGHT!
Great comments. The filming is good too!
Thanks for watching!
I've never seen your channel before, but this is great info. I agree 100%.
0:51 THIS! I have been telling people NOT to use truncated, underbody exit exhausts seemingly forever. BAD idea! Thanks for covering it!
Excellent advice, thanks for sharing
My pleasure, thanks!
Thank you for this video I completely agree with everything you’ve shared. I have been running my commercial business for 30 years in march. Educating people about their choices without insulting them upon their choices is where we become head shrinks at times to guide customers to success outside pre written contracts and invoices.
Congrats on your many years in business!
It's hard to teach people and share info WITHOUT offending anyone.....
This list started out describing my 69 Mustang. When I swapped out the drums on the front the improvement was huge, so naturally I thought rear discs would make a similar difference - almost no noticeable difference.
Brilliant car critical thinking thank you so much for sharing this with us and we really appreciate it see you on the next one ..........
Thanks for being receptive!
Trying to share some experience.......even if y'all disagree on one point or another.
Most of this stuff belongs on a racecar. None of these things are bad just application specific. Great video. I agree with all of this. For a full time street car it all makes sense.
Only thing i disagree with is rear disc brakes. Nothing wrong with it when the correct system is chosen for the use the car will see. If there are ever any questions about what is right for your car most of these companies are very helpfull if you call them.
Thanks!
I appreciate the quick but effective pace and the wisdom of the recommendations. Thanks
Thanks!
Trying to share relevant info without droning on and on......
Thanks for the list and the reasons why.
Absolutely!
Trying to share relevant info that people can use
You are 100% spot on. Experience prevails.
Thanks!
I couldn't agree more with your breakdown, I have seen all these issues through the years... nice job!
Thanks for understanding what I'm getting at!
Great video! Preaching a lot of the things I always have! Especially gearing and brakes!
Thanks!
TRying to help the average Joe gain a little perspective!
Thanks Jason. You answered a question for me before I even asked. Outstanding info for all of us.
Glad to help!
Totally agree on the rear disk brakes. WHY? I have an old 86 Olds 442, 68 350 Olds, runs 12.60s with slicks and the rear drums have stopped it just fine for the past 30 years. Brake shoes last forever and yeah, the parking brake is nice. MSD box? Never understood the point of one of those on a 12-13 sec street/ strip car. Carb? For low end torque, I'm happy with a 650 DP and a stock AC delco mechanical fuel pump. Stereo? The stock Delco ...with cassette...and some aftermarket 6x9 speakers, sounds just fine. Very practical , no nonsense video.
Sounds like a fun car!!
Thanks for your input
Because on a GM a rear disc brake conversion is a “free” c-clip axle eliminator👍🏻
Great info. I changed the rear gear in my 66 Mustang from 3:1 to 3.23 to one. Perfect amount of snap with 200 hp (gets a little scratch in 2nd easily), and does well on the freeway.
Awesome content . Where are you located
Thanks!
Sacramento, CA
All true. Glad to see some of my pet peeves called out! (especially 3/4 exhaust)
Thanks for watching!
Great info any gearhead or potential gearhead needs to know. Some of us grew up being taught these things, but I have a lot of friends that are just now getting into cars in their late forties and have never been taught the basics.
Thanks.
That's exactly what I'm trying to do - share some seemingly obvious but LEGIT info with those that may not be in the know!
Subbed! You just nailed some of my pet peeves when it comes to classic car mods.
Thanks for the add!
If only I could find a checklist or buyers guide or something to help me when buying on old car, like an Old Classic Car Purchase Inspection Checklist and Buying Guide somewhere.
Holy Smokes my Man, WE GET IT! You have a checklist.
I see so many people buy cars without knowing what they're getting into.......
Just hoping to share a little advice, help people enjoy the process better
Great information! Keep up the good work! Watching from Texas.
Thank you! And we love TX!
Great advice, especially with the flex fans. I was at a car meet a guy revved his engine, loud bang and the car stalled. He looked around didn't notice anything wrong. He asked me for a jump, I went to hook up the cables and one of the cables was cut completely. A blade from the fan flew off and cut the cable.
Once after washing my car we were checking the timings curve, and at 3000 rpm the air flow / vibration pulled a towel off the bumper and into the fan. It exploded, luckily nobody got hurt.
Holy smack!!!!!!
Absolutely great advice ❤
THanks!
I agree with you 💯 sir thank you for sharing 😊
Appreciate you watching!
These are all very solid bits of advice. Well done.
Thanks!
I'm keeping my '69 AMX as is. Much of it is still original save for upgraded pistons in its 390 (it feels as though it may have a mild cam), an Offenhouser intake manifold, Edelbrock 1405 carb and Flowmaster muffflers. A previous owner put in a fancy car stereo with rear speakers (and used the oil light feed to power it - not too smart), but by the time I got it, they'd put back the factory AM radio and left the rear speakers in. I tapped off the Radio post on the fuse panel to power the radio and reconnected the oil light (and scored an original Rally-pac gauge set on ebay).
my experience has taught me to avoid the "kits" when doing modifications to a car classic or new. If you want to add something use a stock part from another vehicle and retrofit it. Is more work, requires some fabrication. But the result is just so much better.
Since your doing it yourself to your car it will fit your car. Your in control of the quality. Your skills will increase dramatically. Will give you a truly unique ride. You'll save yourself some money.
Good info!
Great video. All the ‘cool stuff’ is just that. Not much else.
Wow,glad I came across your video. You are direct and address the particular items in a common sense manner. I kiddingly refer to my shop as shoestring garage because that's how I build them, don't need all those high dollar BS improvements . Just a little above "stock" is my old school appeal.
I love the "shoestring" Garage comment!
So true
Thanks for the air ride demo. They seem to leave that out on the car shows when they demo their modifications.
Indeed.
Cars laying frame look SICK!
But, I've seen SO MANY problems.
I prefer to get the car low as I can without dragging or rubbing.
I appreciate the comments!
That thing has a butchered install.
Mine sits all winter aired up and the only pressure change is because of the ambient temp change.
Make the water drain easily accessible helps too.
You've got to decide what kind of spring feel you want with the pressure ,and then set the ride height to where you want and do an alignment there.
Then remember when you slam it or lift it from there while driving it'll probably cause some odd tire wear due to suspension geometry.
They work nice for years, if properly installed.
I love this video! Right on dude! And as far as rear diffs: ditch the old limited slip AND the locker. Do yoursellf a favor and replace whatever you have with an Eaton Tru Trac. Its a gear type torque sensing limited slip, requires no friction oil additive. You can get a a drop in version on many different ford/gm etc. cars. It’s wonderful!
Thanks for the good word!
I definitely agree with you on the Eaton
Finally, someone else who looks at the downside of air suspension. Also, about 70% of the braking power is on the front brakes, so I see little reason to sink a bunch of money into changing the rear braking system.
Right?
It's all good when done right.....but, it's not always done right.
And - you got my gyst, allocate funds where they make most sense!
I own and maintain 5 classic cars and agree with all of your suggestions.
Glad to hear it!
Great vid! Lotsa info, quickly. Good advise for making cars enjoyable to drive, which most people will be happier about than simply having impressive-sounding parts.
That's exactly what I was aiming for, thanks!
@ I don’t know if you’ve covered this in your other videos, but I think an interesting and controversial topic would be regretting having too much power. Like motors that are expensive to build, tend to overpower the handling and braking, and aren’t that much fun to drive. To me, balancing horsepower and handling/braking is best for long-term enjoyment and driving.
@@jonmustang So true!
I jut Dyno'd a '69 Camaro that put 750hp to the rear last week.
Such a wicked, supercharged LS 427......but now it can't get close to hooking up at 1/2 throttle. Exhilirating, but useless!!!!
Very nice video
I feel so vindicated! great list!
Thanks!
I know most have come across all these things before!!!
@@gearheadgarageinc If people admitted that rear disc brakes were specifically cosmetic, I would respect them more.
Excellent tips for any car enthusiast
Appreciate the comment!
Solid,practical info.
Thanks!
Great Video!!! Subscribed.
What a great video! I see people wasting money on so many of these kinds of unnecessary and dubious "upgrades." Over-carburetatuon is the most common myth I see people fall for. You don't need a 750 double punper on most small blocck motors unless you've really worked the heads for volumetric efficiency. But so many of these other mods are just as bad in terms of ROI.
There is a time and a place for some of these items. But you're better off spending money on asthetic upgrades like interior and paint than mechanical stuff that doesn't really add to the cars reliability or driveability.
Exactly!
I agree with all you said and showed except for the flex fan I have always had great experiences with them . I have an olds that had a problem over heating when stopped in traffic ,I like channel and solid advice 👍🏻👍🏻
I was really expecting a bullshit video.. but you 100% nailed it. There is a right way to do a lot of these things.. but most people dont do it..
This is a nice video. It really makes sense. I'm a fan of factory stock so any upgrade really needs to be more than justified, especially if it can be seen.
Thanks for chiming in.
I love hearing what people have to share!
Really good tips man!
Appreciate it!
Great video! I agree with everything! My ride. 1978 Camaro Z-28 4-speed.
Thanks.
Enjoy the Camaro!! I had the same model for a short time when I was young.
Handled so much better than the '67 I had at the same time and kept forever
Some good points here. About cooling...a clutch driven fan does not turn at more rpm than a flex fan. A fan clutch will slip in most driving situations to minimize drag. A fan clutch will lock in warm weather and/or in traffic so the fan turns at waterpump speed. However a flexfan will always turn at waterpump speed because there is a solid connection (no clutch) with the waterpump pulley. A flexfan usually gives better cooling, but you may not like the wind noise, and they are not fuel efficient either. But both a flexfan and a clutch driven fan should be surrounded by a shroud for better cooling and safety.
A fan clutchbworks off heat. When it get hot from engine heat it locks up, no matter the rpm. Also a fixed blade clutch fan will cool mich better than a flex fan, especially at higher RPM. A flex fan flattens out as RPM increases and stops pulling air. In fact it turns into a wall behind the radiator BLOCKING airflow. Also a flex fan is more than likely to Crack and fly apart at higher RPM. And the shroud is a very important part to making sure the radiator cools. It makes the fan pull more air across the core.
With a clutch fan the _engine_ can turn more easily at high RPM, because the clutch disengages. A fan that always turns at water pump speed wastes a lot of energy. When a fan clutch disengages it could be worth 5% more power, or fuel savings.
@@WVXL64 Correct, a shroud should be used for better cooling. I mentioned safety because he talked about hurting his hand being near the fan with the engine idling. I have seen a factory flex fan loosing a blade, but not on an aftermarket flex fan. But possible I guess. I have experimented with flex fans in the past on a few classic cars. In both cases they ran much cooler, both in city traffic and on the highway. Unless the temp gauges in both cars were lying to me...
@@MrZdvy Thamks for commenting.
Flex fans do move quite a bit of air, surely more than a stock 4-blade seen on many early classics.
A good shroud is always such a key complement to any fan.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
All good points! I wanted to add that an adjustable porportioning valve is usually necessary for those rear disc brake conversions as well.
Good point!!!
Great video
Thanks!
Seems like you know your stuff, sub'd!
Thanks for subscribing!
Love your content
Thanks for the good word!
Your logic is awesome!!
Excellent 👍
THanks!
solid advice. i agree 100%. i even made the msd box mistake on my first restomod. simplicity and reliability should always be at the top of the list. only do things that have a PURPOSE to your build.
Nailed it - well said!
When I was 16 I had a 67chevelle (plain Jane) put a power pack top end on it and that was good. Changed the slushomat to a rockcrusher - higher et.
Something I learned from ChrisFix is the adding of a 2nd set of brake calipers. Normally this is done to cause drifting, but the solution in replacing rear drum brakes where the parking brakes are you would replace with a 2nd brake caliper to act as the parking brakes.
You're right, there are a number of secondary caliper kits designed to provide an e-brake!
Just because you can doesn’t mean you should. My personal ‘worst of’ is the wagon wheel and rubber band tire combos. Classic cars need meat as in a sidewall profile to look proper. Anything larger than a 17” wheel is just not going to look right. Not to mention braking, ride quality and even handling. If you reengineer the suspension/brakes to compensate you no longer have a ‘classic car’.
Seems like so many people don't want to see anything larger than a 17" wheel.......but even those are getting way more popular. Surprisingly, there aren't all that many tire size selections available in a 17". Way more options in 18's, so they're getting to be pretty commonplace.
Any which way, some sidewall is still desired in my book!
me too. that looks like a friggen toy. give me the classic 15" with plenty of meat and either rallys or american torque thrust any day for the classics. and the road scraper profile is just asking for problems.
Great video. So true about the rear discs.Parking brakes are critical, don't ever run a street car without it. Make it work with aftermarket rears, or you'll be sorry.
As a guy that owns multiple old schools with manual transmissions, I wouldn't have it any other way!
Wisdom. Someone who knows from experience. Great video
Thank you! Lots of years doing this stuff!
I just got my airride on my dually done. So excited. This took the wind out of my sail. Lol. It's gotta be a better ride than the dumptruck springs it had. I'll mess with it for that reason.
Great advice!!
Thanks!
This randomly popped up on my feed. Great recommendations. I am not an old school hot rodder, but I study automotive culture and everything you mentioned are things I notice. Oldest cart I built was a 96 grand marquis with everything built before adding a turbo and then adding built motor. I did suspension first, then brakes, then transmission and drive train, moderate sound system. Then did wheels and tires and proper hub centric H&R spacers. Anyway, I have seen so many builds and you put so much into context that I wondered about, like the carburetors and the air ride. Well done! Only advice is to buy a wireless mic, they sell them on amazon for 30 or get a semi pro one like a rode wireless 2go and you will sound a full pro RUclipsr
Sounds like built yours in the proper order!
....and, yeah - I had purchased a wireless mic and it sounded even worse!!
Definitely could use some better sound quality, as my shop is noisy!
Are these his customers cars he's talking smack about? 😂😂. I love it. Subscribing.
all excellent advice - I agrre with everything he says. I have made many of the msitakes he brings up.
Great Post!
I have an 850 double pumper with no choke,,,,Always ran great,,,changing the carb to a 750 WITH a choke
If I've got a healthy engine, a high-stall or a manual trans, I'm not scared of a big carb. Mut MOST cars respond well to a slightly conservative carb selection. Seems like all the carb CFM calculators you find online always push you to a smaller carb anymore.
Great video. Thanks
Thank you so much for covering how bad over-sized tires are, people don't realize you are raising your center of gravity putting more stress on your suspension and your making your rear end gear ratio worse. I have a c10 with 15x7 rally wheels and I put one size smaller than stock tires on my truck. Because it lowers my truck half an inch and makes me rear gear ratio better, and makes my brakes work better!
Well said. Done right, big wheels & tires, with upgraded brakes can really get the job done. But some of the smoothest riding cars have stock 15's and mild suspension upgrades.
@@gearheadgarageinc Agreed and the truth is for a daily driver you want some side wall so it will flex when you hit pot holes in the road.
@@The0utmode If you're gonna run bigger wheels and low profile tires, hopefully the suspension is upgraded to accommodate! You CAN have good ride quality with the proper springs & swaybars......some sidewall is a good thing, but too much doesn't help either!!
Thanks very helpful 👍.
Thanks, that was my goal!