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Talk about hacking a hack job. wtf? What a disaster.

Great numbered do and don't lists on your channel man!

Everything talked about in this video is 100% dead on. 👌 Also in the past 25 yrs I've removed hundreds of aftermarket alarms, many of which caused a lot of problems.

That ground on Camaro tail lights can be a pain! I had two and it was the only the right light that gave me grief.

What's your thoughts on header wraps on daily driven cars.

I thought my man was going to end up with “another mistake guys do is getting a car, just don’t”

Here's a tip: add a drain valve connector to the lower radiator hose when the rad doesn't have a drain.

Good video, for me electrical wiring is a black art, I hate it. One of the problems I came across with my 78 nova is starting switch with the key. They wear out and the starter won't work unless I play with the gear selector. Instead of tearing into my steering column I wired a push button on the dash. So far so good. All the best.

i bet that mopar is slag in performance with that snipper trash on it. people want turn key and ya get what ya get cause your ignorant you need a cooled intake manifold if your running efi otherwise it will always be a slug compared to carbureted... carbureted heated manifold efi cooled manifold Keep that modern stuff off your classic cruiser if you really want a street ripper.. if you want real street performance run a carb i get it most classic car owners now are to stupid to operate a car with ac a carburetor... get what ya get... Dont get me started on people who want mileage averages high you cant have milage and real down and dirt ready to rock and roll tire shredder and have 25 mpg ... well you can but its going to cost you mo0re than your over priced car lot bought classic now days.. Here's the low down on why your EFi snippers and such suck on your classic performance car... UTG breaks it down ruclips.net/video/juIIah580rQ/видео.html

Great tips keep the videos coming

So often I see "experts" that are full of it, but everything I've seen here are no nonsense and practical, good stuff that's easy to forget when you have a million details you're trying to keep straight...

Tip 1 for picking bolts. Header bolts i suggest stage 8 locking fasteners. Set it and forget it. Great video

So number 1 mistake people make is not doing their homework and get parts that dont fit or fit poorly.

Quik latch makes an air cleaner stud that looks much cleaner and more professional than a standard wing nut. Allows for the most clearance I've seen. Love it on my car!

If I did that to my hood the next move I'd make is to put my head on the radiator and slam the hood down! Great stuff!! Glad I saw the steering wheel info - in the process now of picking out a replacement.

Your videos should be state law viewed for every classic car buyer. Great video thank you

At 9:35…those Scat seats need to go away forever! I always cringe seeing those seats in any car.

I had a car throttle stuck. Not a good experience. I hope more people check your tips. Excellent work. Thanks for it!

Been following your channel for about a month now. You have a life time of "muscle" wisdom. Been wrenching on my own since the eighties, and you have incredible basic logic, for new and old builders. Well done!!!! 85 GM stepside in progress :⁠-⁠) Cheers

One thing to note about the headers is that you need to ensure that the headers will accommodate the brackets for the ancillary equipment, power steering, alternator, A/C compressor, etc. I have a '69 Vette 427 BB with A/C and side pipes. Even the more expensive Summit Racing headers and bracket would not accommodate the A/C compressor, so I had to choose between keeping the factory A/C or headers. I chose the A/C. 🙂

Another great video.

Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I'm learning as I go with a newly restored classic Mustang, I need all the help I can get!

Nice info. I found one of those fancy air filter nuts for my chrome air cleaner and it wasn't too close to the hood, but it wasn't the right thread at the beginning and worked its way off. Found it lying on the top side of the chrome top of the air cleaner when I opened up the hood. I already know that getting a longer stud would be a bad mistake. I'll just go back to the butterfly nut that came with the air cleaner. I used it before, so I know it's OK, too.

Another great informative video and thank you. I like your comment about the factory way on things being the best option.

I'd love to hear fixes to simple, avoidable issues you all have seen???

nice tips! enjoyed them.

enjoy the tips, ty. gosh headers not being the lowest point on a muscle car(collector). 1/2 the muscle car's on the road would require replacement. is there any header for a 69 gto automatic that isn't lowest point, headmen competition(no) or super comp? Doug's? inquiring minds would like to know . thanks again

This guy has facts!

Excellent video thank you! 👍👍👍 Please keep 'em coming! Such great info for those of us that have these kinds of cars.

A dixie cup works good to check hood clearence...

Great tips. Got a recommendation on what type of headers to get for a 72 C10 with a 350 engine? Willing to pay the price for a good set but want to make sure they fit properly and don't require a hammer to install.

I thoroughly enjoy your pragmatic approach. Thanks for your informative videos. For seats, overly tall units in a classic hardtop, in my opinion, is blasphemy (a sedan’s post helps hide this aesthetic crime).

Great info and tips as usual!! The bracket you guys made for the Chevelle was a definite game-changer for the overall comfort and drivability of the car! I just wish I would have asked you to do the same on the GTO. That steering wheel feels like its in my lap, so some of the older cars weren't used to having bigger drivers behind the wheel! Just another reason to go with a quality shop like yours - that attention to detail is priceless!!

I bought my project 57 years ago and drove it about 150,000 miles before buying a new car. It sat in my garage / barn / shop for 35 years before I finally got the time to rebuild it (i.e., I retired). Yeah, lots of rust but I’m having fun restoring it. It’s a ‘64 tripower GTO. And, you’re right - I’ve spent a small fortune on tools plus insulating and heating the barn. And that’s just for body working tools like compressor, press, welder and equipment, etc. I already have lots of tools for the mechanical stuff because I’ve been doing that for years. At this point I’ve actually spent more on the barn and tools than on parts.

Man these are good tips! Did not even think about the air cleaner stud… man I would HATE myself if I Faq that up. A/C shroud, steering wheel, ignition key, seats, door handles, headers, bolts, gastkets…These are all great advice!

Subscribed! Things I see at car shows and meets all the time. They don't get it, You do. Thank you!

Good stuff, agree entirely about headers, I often see them in the "boy racer" position, frankly in my LS swap I simply cut the OEM flanges off on the exhaust manifolds and clocked them till they fit right, being steel they welded up great, and still have the aluminum heat shields.

72 Nova with 94 Gen2 Lt1 swap. Searching for 1 3/4" Long Tube headers has been a struggle. That's good info that you like Doug's, they have a few options that might work.

Good show. I don't like header rap, I find the header rust quicker. What I do is put 2 or 3 coats of quality header paint and use ignition wire protector over the plug boots. For what it's worth.

You have to keep making videos of these mistakes or modification mistakes with wiring or even brakes, Some of these I've never heard of until now and I appreciate seeing all of these

Great wiring advice. It's timely because I'm rewiring my SBC swapped 68 Volvo Amazon with a Painless harness. Luckily it's such a simple car it shouldn't be too bad. Cheers from the Right coast of Canada!

Speaker wire and lamp cord.....oh the miles of it I used in my youth.

Thank you! These are vitally important tips.

Half the stuff you say dont do make sense. The other half, i do because i dont let some youtube guy like yourself to dictate how i build my shit

Such a great channel. Clear, concise, no-nonsense advice and tips. Well done!

Good points. How about covering an aftermarket fuse/relay box for running all the add-on accessories? I built one by repurposing a 1990s Jeep fuse/relay box and it's a huge improvement over rando wires and relays zip-tied together, but I would have preferred an off the shelf solution. Never could find anything worth using.

Random question. Is the rear window glass?

Thank You! Definitely motivational, looking at my 69 Camaro differently now!

Beautiful car!!!

In short - DITTO👍 I have 40+ years of experience - much of it hard learned - and guys at cruise-ins and car shows are encouraged to browse my knowledge base; I want them to learn from my mistakes so as to avoid pitfalls. When they mention they have any kind of electrical issue, my first question is, "Have you reestablished your grounds?" They almost always say they checked their grounds and they seem ok.😤 I then recommend they disconnect, thoroughly clean, then reconnect. I acknowledge it's tedious and lacks glamor but, like you said, it's amazing how many electrical problems go away once that's done. To help make my point, I share with them my most extreem example: As you know, current likes to follow the path of least resistance. This car I worked on had a transmission with ~60k miles and its bushings were pretty worn. Investigation determined that poor body grounding caused current to flow through the drive train, through the transmission via the shift linkage, cooling lines and shafts… The current created micro-sparks (arcing) between the steel shafts and aluminum bushings thus eroding the bushing resulting in accelerated wear. After doing the repair and reestablishing grounds, and adding some redundant grounding, we noticed the electrical system worked much better and even minor issues with lights and gauges were resolved… how shocking. 😏 The only thing I would add which you didn't mention is Ohm's law; V=IR, the simplified representation a circuit. The most important item missing from that formula is heat. Like you, I've seen guys add accessories like radiator fans and air suspension without upgrading their electrical system.🙄 Citing Ohm's law, I point out how their alternator is working really hard to push lots of current through small wires which will get warm… You know the rest. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink. Like the Capt'n said to Cool Hand Luke, "Some men, you just can't reach."