I just installed my new 91 octane stock improved ECU and i find it is much smoother and quicker! It was very easy like you said! Love my Honda CRF 300L!
Welcome to the world of the aftermarket ECU, Haha I have been trying hard to promote 550 performance ECUs on my channel. It was a complete game changer, I got the stage one. You can also remove the carbon can as well, it removes the codes for that I believe.
Yup, it was a good purchase I think. I've used the EJK in the past on the 250L. An ECU is a much better option though, assuming it's done right. The Canadian models do not have the carbon cannister because we're special :-)
I have to agree. I just did mine. I have 3000 miles on my L and I noticed that at about the 1200 mile mark, the bike felt just better. Broken in. With the 550 ECU, it just added to that added feel. Good video. (I realize I am a year late watching it..........)
You Convinced me. I Just order the stock 87 octane ecu for my 21 CRF300L. The on/off switch for a throttle is killing me. It caused me to lay my bike down once and Broke my clutch lever. Thanks for the info. Good job on the video!
Thanks Jake. I think you'll like it. It works well for me anyway. Sometimes I still get the on/off throttle feel but it is reduced when I get it. If this doesn't improve it enough for you, you could also consider a throttle tamer throttle tube :-)
@@Scoottoots Way too late to be useful, but just in case someone sees this. The throttle tamer does nothing to tame the throttle for this bike. It might feel like it does something in your first few days after installing it, but it's ... just a psychological bias-like trick. You can easily skip that bit. The on/off is because of the fuel injection mapping - single cylinder - low gearing combo. While you might change some sprockets and add an ECU, you will never magically change that one cylinder fuel-injected character so the on/off will always be there.
@@azzogathor Haha, since this video I did the reverse. I installed the G2 quick-turn competition throttle. It's a modest reduction in throttle travel, and just right for my liking. It didn't cause any snatchiness in low speed stuff, at least for me ;-)
Just installed a 91 octane improved stock 550. It's amazing how bad the stock fuel map really is. Big improvement, smooth and much easier to ride. Feels like a different bike now
As a guide for those outside USA, EU = rest of world incl Japan, Australia, New Zealand etc EU 91 RON = US 87 octane EU 95 RON = US 91 octane EU 98 RON = US 93 octane
My exact same one just arrived and I will put it in this coming week! Also figured what the heck and also got the new airbox lid and tube for the better air supply😃
Yup, I agree. I didn't expect much power increase without opening things up a lot. It is however a noticeable power increase, mainly felt in torque on low to mid throttle. Rideability is improved and as you say, that is totally worth it. I also noticed yesterday while off road in very hot temps, the right knee was not uncomfortable.
Hey Scoot Toots, love the video! Just got my ECU sent in and can't wait to get it back. Also... what kind of mic are you using with your camera? Thanks!
I felt the low speed throttle response was smoothed out nicely, but yeah the differences in other regards are quite subtle. Like you say, hopefully not as lean now :-)
Not to be insulting but I doubt you're the observative type. The mapping is HORRIBLE from factory and the bike is riddled with low rpm jerking, surging, stuttering and stammering. It's practically unrideable to crawl in 1st and I can feel chopiness throughout the rpm range even cruising.
@phantomshTTer I would say I'm about average as far as observation. It just ran fine, even at low RPM. My buddy has the same bike, they're both '21s. At the time we got em, mine had 63 miles, his had 43. He got the ECU done before I did mine. We switched bikes for a little while and I remember thinking at the time it made such little difference I was hesitant to get mine updated. Maybe I got a runner lol.
As always, great video and thank you for sharing you knowledge and experience. I’ve installed a full yoshi exhaust and 91 stage 1 ECU from 550 performance. I’m curious, have you still got the snorkel out?
Thanks Ian. Yes, I still have the snorkel removed. Seems good that way to me. Another option is to get some 2" inside diameter rubber elbow from the hardware store. Trace the outline on the top of the airbox over the existing hole and cut a new opening. You have to make it an oval to fit. Cut the elbow down but leave some to protrude from the top of the air box to keep any migrating water out. That's how I handled it on my crf250l with a full Yoshi exhaust, ejk controller, and freer flow air filter.
@@Scoottoots I’m going to try it without the snorkel for bit. I really don’t ride in the rain, unless I find myself caught out in a storm, and I don’t foresee and deep water crossings. Depending on how it runs, I may just leave it out or modify it as you mentioned.
Just be careful. Brother and son both have 300L’s and the air filter was Black from off-roading… not sure if removing the snorkel will increase chances of more dirt water getting in. Look into getting a uni filter pre filter snorkel type to slide over snorkel and stock filter will Remain clean. 😉
@@TheZakkmylde Yeah, I've seen a lot of owners reporting that. Can't understand why it should be different from the 250L which never had an issue in that regard. The snorkel draws from a similar location. Perhaps Honda has used a stickier adhesive on the new filters. That said, I ride solo so I never have to suck in dust from others, and the bike doesn't kick much up into the area the snorkel draws from. Another point worth mentioning is, I've noticed some riders not understanding that the surface folds of the pleats gather most of the dirt, but it's the inner sides of the pleats that draw the air. So a filter can look black and caked from the outside, but pry open the pleats and it may still be acceptably clean. The performance is a good indicator of the air filter state. It'll start underperforming if it really is caked up. My filter is doing okay at 6,000 kms. I'm not a fan of the pre-filter concept. I get that it preserves the air filter, but it does inhibit the intake further. I'd rather keep an eye on my filter and replace when needed (they cannot be cleaned) and retain good air flow. The stock filters are exceptionally good, and when the backfire screen is removed, they flow about as much as aftermarket filters.
I'm trying thr Thai ECU first. If it doesn't smooth the throttle enough I'm sending it to 550. Figured it was worth a shot at $100 shipped. Cheaper than the 550 core charge for another ECU. Mainly did it because I was tired of feeling like my right leg is on fire at every red light.
I'm not familiar. Is this Thai ECU just the stock Thai ECU or an aftermarket one? I think enrichment helps with the heat issue on the right leg but it won't correct it on an otherwise stock bike. Let us know how this goes for you please.
@@Scoottoots it's an OEM Honda ECU that has a different fuel map because of the less stringent emissions. It did indeed reduce heat and the fan kicks on far less. I can also get the front tire up in 2nd without and clutch. Just preload and pull. Plug and play for US bikes.
I bought a new bike in the Philippines that came stock with a Thai ECU. I can' speak about the difference in power between it and a US ECU, but I can tell you that it, like the US bikes, is impossible to ride in the first two gears. It's either on or off and there's no in between. Similarly in the higher gears the deceleration is abrupt and not smooth. I just ordered a stock 550 ECU to replace it and will be heading over in late January to install and try. I'm hoping that the new ECU along with a throttle tamer will make it a hell of a lot better to ride in stop and go traffic as well as the technical trails.
Just got my ECU installed (Stock Improved), definitely notice the bike being less jerky. I didn’t change anything with the stock air tubes or the exhaust but did put on the new 550 air box cover and a high performance filter and the bike sounds a little more throaty, not really louder just a lower sounding tone. Did you experience anything like this? I live in Texas now but grew up on Lake Chelan in Washington, watching your videos sure reminds me of that area.
Yes definitely, opening the intake even a little creates a deeper induction sound. More satisfying. Wow, big difference between Texas and Washington state. I hope you're enjoying where you live now :-)
Even at fast idle, shutting off throttle gives a slower rate of reduction to idle. My Stock Improved ecu (UK) feels much better and makes me grin that I've now got the bike I purchased.
Hi mate! It’s me again… how you feel now about fuel consumption? Any impacts for good or bad? Any other reviews on this ECU worth sharing with us? I heard the gearing feels better when riding 6th gear in not so high speed (my stock bike feels a bit asthmatic at 65km/h without downshifting to regain speed)..How do you feel about that? Thanks :) Cheers!
So, you have lived with this ECU for a bit, any further thoughts on it? Is it worth it without doing any other mods? I am considering the same one, but want to know that it makes a difference in a good way, and not lose too much fuel economy...Thanks
Well, for me it has been worth it. I have found no difference in fuel economy. That is likely due to keeping the closed loop mode (steady throttle at medium to high rpm) F/A mixture much the same as stock, while increasing power and therefore efficiency on acceleration. I do find an increase in power and response; nothing significant, but noticeable and useful. Just enriching the open loop mode a tad is worth it for best engine health.
This is the ECU (stock improved 87 octane) that I am interested in. I don’t really want to change out the exhaust. You mention a lot of pros; are there any cons?
I'm in Canada, so in Canadian dollars it was $420 for the new ecu. They charged a very reasonable shipping amount which was appreciated. So many companies charge 4 times the actual amount when shipping to Canada; so unfair. Btw, after riding more, the throttle response at low speed is definitely improved, however the on/off portion is still somewhat abrupt. Once the gas is on it is smoother.
Me too, West Koots. So duty, taxes et al? Shipping is outrageous these days. I think a lot of companies are taking advantage of the circumstances to charge a grotesque amount. Keep up the great work!
@@darylelder1352 Yeah, I'll be getting a K-Tech shock on Tuesday. The cheapest shipping option was UPS for over $100 CAD, then I had to pay an additional $110 to UPS for brokerage, taxes, and such. Sad, but it'll be a welcome addition to the bike for many years to come.
No worries, I understand. I quite like the 300L and knew the type of bike it is before I purchased, as I put 62,000 kms on a CRF250L prior to this. I'm not wanting to get the most power possible out it. I am just refining the performance to suit the riding experience I want from the bike; not to make it something it isn't intended to be. The ECU swap improves throttle response, cools the engine down, and adds a small boost in power that enhances the bike's natural capabilities. The reasoning is much the same as changing the shock. The total rear wheel travel is 10.2 inches and yet my rider sag just sitting on the bike was 6 inches and I am average weight (180lb). Coupled with very poor damping, it lead to an extremely wallowy-bouncy ride that is quite unpleasant and can be dangerous on twisty roads with minor undulations. I understand the bike is built to a budget and there were some oversights on Honda's part (the shock in my old 250L was quite acceptable). So the changes I am making are to bring the 300L up to a higher standard. More the bike it would be if Honda decided to charge $1000 more for it. Not trying to make it a hard enduro monster or motocross bike. It'll never be that, not would I want it to be.
Speeds have been a major concern over what bike I'll buy & I see here that you're running at speeds over 120 which is close to the 70mph - 80mph that are the speed limits where I live. Have you opened the air intake or any other mods? Heck, I'll stop being lazy & go digg thru your stuff. thanks for the video
The highest speed I had it up to when it was bone stock in ideal conditions when the bike was in a good mood on a level road, no wind, was 144 kph. Reliable speeds are up to 130 kph or thereabouts. It'll happily cruise at 110 to 120 kph. So it's good to go at average highway speeds without fuss. Not that suitable for super-fast highways. Cheers 🙂
I'm no longer a fan of aftermarket exhausts for a single cylinder engine like this. I don't care for the sound it makes. I had a full Yoshi system on the 250L and it was a love/hate relationship. This stock exhaust is audible with the slight mods I've done, so that's satisfying on the noise front and it has enough performance to satisfy me also. But yes, definitely some untapped power that you can unlock with a the right exhaust and other tuning.
@@pg6576 Yes, I know how flow dynamics, especially in the header, affect power production. The header is the big restrictor in this bike. For me, at the moment, I'm not wanting power at the expense of riding pleasure. That aftermarket exhaust sound is not nearly as pleasant as what I hear now. Choices :-)
Ok, so the second summer is already rolling back around down here in the south, and it will be the second summer that I will have had my Rally, and I would really like to see if I can get the fan to stop kicking on and off all day like it loves to do on this bike... It was only 74 degrees Fahrenheit today, and that is exactly what it did all day long. It gets brutally hot down here in June-August, so it basically stays on during those months. I guess I’ll start preparing now, and pull my ECU out and send it in to 550 performance. Again, im not doing this with the any expectations of a power increase, but mostly to reduce that jerky on off throttle, and try and smooth that out, and hopefully, it will just be an added bonus if the fan gets less run time this summer... I suppose it will since the stock improved 87 octane will allow it to run slightly hitcher, right? I modified my exhaust the same way that you did yours, and I plan to do the air box mod like you have done, so I should be good to go, right? Also, with the stock improved 87 I’ll be able to run any gas in the bike won’t I? I have been running premium in my bike since I’ve owned it, but with the stock improved, I guess I will be running 87 non ethanol mostly, if the station I pull up to every time has it... But if they don’t have it, , it’ will be fine to run whatever they have, correct? Thanks for the advice. I’m going to pull the ECU this evening.
Yes, the richer mixture will help cool it down, and yes, you can use whatever octane gas you want with the 87 octane 550 ecu tune without any issues. That said, this bike does not have the high compression, and with the 87 octane tune does not have highly enough advanced ignition timing, that would require higher than 87 octane. Other than often less ethanol content, there is no advantage in performance or engine health to use higher octane. Higher octane is modified to burn slower and be less volatile, to compensate for the effects of high compression ratio and/or highly advanced ignition timing. There is more power per unit in 87 octane. Another suggestion is to swap the stock coolant for Engine Ice coolant. It works well to keep temps from climbing high. I used it in my 250L and the difference was quite noticeable. Enjoy:-)
@@Scoottoots well, I got my ECU reinstalled. And as I was letting the bike run for a minute or two, while I let my radiator burp the air bubbles out while I topped it off with the new engine ice coolant, my RPM’s set right at 2k the entire time. That’s a lot higher of an idle speed than yours isn’t it? After about a minute I blipped the throttle a couple of times, but it just stayed at 2k... Also, I never had a check engine light on my dash. Kinda strange eh? I haven’t had a chance to ride it yet, I have the Rally, so I still have to get all the plastics back on first.
@@airadaimagery692 Yeah, mine idles at 1500 instead of the stock 1440 rpm once it's up to temperature. Getting up to temp may take a few minutes of idling though. If your idle remains at 2000 rpm after riding let's say, then there's something amiss. If that were the case I would get in touch with 550 performance and discuss that with him. So either let it idle for 5 minutes then check, or go for a ride then check it. The dash check light visual seems different for everyone.
You should open up your airbox a little more now, and get a HiFlo filter cheap for $20 now that u got it richer. That should really boost your low/mid range throttle.
I guess I didn't mention it but I removed the snorkel and enlarged the opening of the air box. I also removed the backfire screen from the filter. HiFloFiltro do not make an air filter for the 300L; only an oil filter. The DNA filter is ridiculously overpriced, K&N do not make one yet, and and the UNI foam filter from Australia is a no-go for me. I have experience with them on the 250L. Not good. The stock filter is excellent, especially with the screen removed. Not much chance of a backfire igniting it. Over time I'll tweak things here and there, but it performs really well now. Cheers 🙂
@@Scoottoots ah, u got it then. Cant believe how much the lid off, screen cut out, better air filter made so much more torque on my klx. I remember seeing your 250L vids, glad u got a 300 and making vids on it
I owned 2 550 ECUs - they both made my bike surge at idle because the fuel mapping was done incorrectly on BOTH! it was WAY too lean and nearly destroyed my engine.
@@JimmiZero Are you saying he flashed the ecu to be leaner than stock in open loop mode? When you say, "nearly destroyed my engine," did you have actual engine damage?
I like the EJK controllers. I used one on my crf250l for many years. I opted for the ECU on the 300L because a properly flashed ECU offers more options to manage the fueling in both open and closed loop modes, plus the ignition timing can be advanced for a bit more kick. With an ECU you can also modify things like idle speed, rpm limiter, etc.
Very interesting mod! I would really like to smooth out the low end throttle jerkiness on my CRF300L. Can you tell what it is doing to the gas mileage? If a person installed an aftermarket ECU and didn’t like it for some reason could the original ECU be reverted back to without creating issues for the motorcycle? Thanks
I can't say yet how the economy is affected. I'll know that soon though and I'll be sure to update you all on how this goes. I filled up just now but I only used less than a 1/3 of the tank with the new ecu. The mpg however were the same as I have been getting lately, so it may not have much impact on mpg. If you wanted to have 550 Performance flash your stock ecu, I imagine he could flash it back to original specs (ask him though), but perhaps the best way is to do as I did. I purchased a completely new ecu from them. That way if I want to revert I can swap back to the stock unit.
@@Scoottoots My CRF300L is completely stock as far as the engine and exhaust are concerned. I would think the new ECU would still help smooth out the low speed throttle? Thanks
@@donreed1133 Well, I can say that it helped with the low speed throttle control in my case. It didn't completely eliminate the on/off suddenness, but it diminished that and smoothed out the control on slight throttle inputs. I have a bad right wrist which exaggerates the issue for me, so any help in that department is welcomed.
Com um upgrade de conjunto de distribuiçao ajuda muito . Nao sei quais as combinaçoes certas para fazer estrada e todo terreno . Quantos dentes na frente e atras
Your country must be using the RON method of octane rating (EU for instance). 95 octane using RON ratings is the same as 91 octane in North American rating system. So the 91 octane version of the ECU would be for use with 95 octane gasoline if you are in Europe, etc.
I have checked the mpg on every fill and it seems about the same as before the ECU install. I know that it is running richer especially in open loop mode by the performance and a bit more blacking on the tailpipe, so I suspect some increased efficiency is at play, plus the trimming in closed loop mode keeping economy high.
Yes, especially since there is no performance gain in using 91 octane with the stock ECU. The only gain with added octane is when the ignition timing is significantly advanced, which requires flashing the ECU, or in high compression engines to prevent pre-detonation. Higher octane is less volatile; slower to ignite under pressure.
I really don't understand why a company like Honda with it's vast resources and time they have to get a product perfect before release, how it can be that somebody in the aftermarket can tune the bike far better. I do not believe they (Honda) avoided doing their best so that leaves me to question what could the reason be to not release this engine doing at least what it is with this ECU map. As a guide for those outside USA, EU = rest of world incl Japan, Australia, New Zealand etc EU 91 RON = US 87 EU 95 RON = US 91 EU 98 RON = US 93
Thanks for the conversions. A lot of people get those confused. Regarding the tune, it's not that Honda is leaving performance and engine efficiency on the table. Honda by law has to tune it, prioritizing emissions, sound levels, etc., and in the process fuel economy numbers for marketing purposes. Aftermarket tuning is directed towards reversing some of these measures, allowing the engine to breathe better and enriching the mixture, enabling the engine to run a bit cooler and smoother. This provides a bit more longevity, better rideability, and some extra power. Hope that makes sense.
Not sure what you mean by 16.15. Not a time mark as the video is only 10 minutes long. As for the power. The enrichment, especially in open loop mode, benefits engine life and most definitely adds power where where it's most appreciated. The slight advance to ignition timing also adds better power response.
Really sad what your money gets you from oem. Absolutely pathetic excuse for a factory tune on these bikes. I waited 2.5 years for Yamaha to drop a replacement for the WR and finally got tired of waiting and strayed from my 100% blue blood lifer status. Between the brake hose debacle, non-existent suspension and the god awful jerky, surging, stuttering and stammering this thing does below 4k I feel like Honda spat in my face for a first impression. NEVER AGAIN! My old XT250 is a better bike
Ah, sorry to hear that. True, it's a budget bike. Far less expensive than the WR250R was. The suspension, especially the shock on this bike, is laughable and even dangerous with its unsettled bounciness when negotiating corner after corner on a road that is not perfect. For the money though, and with a few modifications, it can become a good bike that'll go forever on basic maintenance. With proper suspension, and some getting used to the throttle, it performs quite well. My first motorcycle was a 305 two stroke Yamaha. I've always liked Yamaha; just haven't purchased one in recent years. I'd like to though.
@Scoot Toots It has potential, I just feel it's a very insulting release. To sell a bike that needs suspension straight off the floor is just plain wrong from a moral and ethical standpoint and in principle alone... like... this suspension isn't acceptable for 90% of the market buyers. So why would Honda release it in the European market? The fuel mapping at low rpm is so bad for a beginner bike, I'd HATE to learn to ride with this as my first experience learning throttle control. I feel like it's become acceptable common practice to sell half completed products anymore. That's why I'm so mad about this Honda release, it's the blatant "idgaf" feeling gesture on their part. What if somebody buys this and doesn't have $1500 extra to throw at the suspension straight away? I mean... it should come with one ffs. I know Yamaha would never release a half effort like this and rightfully so. I'm a perfectionist by nature myself and feel this just falls so far from an acceptable release end product of a long established multi billion dollar international manufacturing company.
@@phantomshtter I totally get it. I was surprised when it first came out that the retail was pennies higher than the 250L with all the improvements Honda made to this model over the 250L. HOnda cheaped out in the worst possible way though with the sad suspension. I agree it wouldn't suit 90% of riders, assuming 90% of riders know what suspension should be like. The throttle, yeah it's pretty choppy, but so many new bikes are similar. I would have gladly paid another thousand if the bike came set up properly. I went with it because I know how reliable and fun the 250L was for me. When I saw the major changes they made over the 250L I was hoping the suspension would be capable of supporting the potential of those changes. All that engineering is pointless if the suspension doesn't allow you to ride the bike to its designed sweet spots. Oh well. In Canadian funds I paid $7400 out the door with taxes and all the fees. So now I've put in another $1000 on performance and handling: suspension front and rear and the 550 ECU. So $8400 CAD total cost and it now performs and handles quite well, both on moderate dirt and tarmac twisties. That's $6300 USD. Can't get that pricing on a Yamaha, so there's that.
Авто/Мото
This thing will be quite a trail monster now with low speed fueling and decent suspension. As always, build what you can't buy. Thanks for sharing.
That's a good way of putting it: "Build what you can't buy." Yeah, I'm getting it sorted to suit me :-)
I just installed my new 91 octane stock improved ECU and i find it is much smoother and quicker! It was very easy like you said! Love my Honda CRF 300L!
Very cool to hear. Enjoy :-)
Thanks for this. It is exactly what I was looking for before pulling the trigger. Ride safe!
Happy it helps :-) Enjoy!
Welcome to the world of the aftermarket ECU, Haha I have been trying hard to promote 550 performance ECUs on my channel. It was a complete game changer, I got the stage one. You can also remove the carbon can as well, it removes the codes for that I believe.
Yup, it was a good purchase I think. I've used the EJK in the past on the 250L. An ECU is a much better option though, assuming it's done right. The Canadian models do not have the carbon cannister because we're special :-)
@ Motorcycles Offroad Did you create a video on removing the carbon can? Perhaps you can create one doing it to the Rally when you get it...
@@Scoottoots I like an EJK MUCH better.
@@JimmiZero Well, one thing is certain, the EJK at least gives a guy something to play around with 🙂
Thank you so much for this video. Informative and immediately useful!
Cheers :-)
I just ordered mine. Really hoping for the low speed jerkiness to go away great video.. thank you
I hope it helps. It improved mine. Every bike is different of course.
I have to agree. I just did mine. I have 3000 miles on my L and I noticed that at about the 1200 mile mark, the bike felt just better. Broken in. With the 550 ECU, it just added to that added feel. Good video. (I realize I am a year late watching it..........)
Thanks, small improvements in performance are always welcome with this type of bike. Enjoy it :-)
You Convinced me. I Just order the stock 87 octane ecu for my 21 CRF300L. The on/off switch for a throttle is killing me. It caused me to lay my bike down once and Broke my clutch lever. Thanks for the info. Good job on the video!
Thanks Jake. I think you'll like it. It works well for me anyway. Sometimes I still get the on/off throttle feel but it is reduced when I get it. If this doesn't improve it enough for you, you could also consider a throttle tamer throttle tube :-)
@@Scoottoots Way too late to be useful, but just in case someone sees this. The throttle tamer does nothing to tame the throttle for this bike. It might feel like it does something in your first few days after installing it, but it's ... just a psychological bias-like trick. You can easily skip that bit.
The on/off is because of the fuel injection mapping - single cylinder - low gearing combo. While you might change some sprockets and add an ECU, you will never magically change that one cylinder fuel-injected character so the on/off will always be there.
@@azzogathor Haha, since this video I did the reverse. I installed the G2 quick-turn competition throttle. It's a modest reduction in throttle travel, and just right for my liking. It didn't cause any snatchiness in low speed stuff, at least for me ;-)
Just installed a 91 octane improved stock 550. It's amazing how bad the stock fuel map really is. Big improvement, smooth and much easier to ride. Feels like a different bike now
That's good to hear. It just makes sense on these bikes to get the fueling corrected for better performance and efficiency. Enjoy :-)
As a guide for those outside USA, EU = rest of world incl Japan, Australia, New Zealand etc
EU 91 RON = US 87 octane
EU 95 RON = US 91 octane
EU 98 RON = US 93 octane
My exact same one just arrived and I will put it in this coming week!
Also figured what the heck and also got the new airbox lid and tube for the better air supply😃
@@57Jimmy Cool. I opened out the air in the top of the air box. Let us know how that intake tube changes things if at all.
Is there a 87 and 91 octane 550 ecu unit ?
Power increase isn’t amazing, but the throttle response and smoothness is totally worth it
Yup, I agree. I didn't expect much power increase without opening things up a lot. It is however a noticeable power increase, mainly felt in torque on low to mid throttle. Rideability is improved and as you say, that is totally worth it. I also noticed yesterday while off road in very hot temps, the right knee was not uncomfortable.
Any stalling?
i did this a few weeks ago and its worth it just for the throttle response in first gear stick i almost could not ride it under 10mph
Yup, that really has changed. I noticed that more than anything. No more lurching and having to modulate the clutch to smooth it out.
im.struggling here too. I thought I just sucked. sending mine in asap
Hey Scoot Toots, love the video! Just got my ECU sent in and can't wait to get it back. Also... what kind of mic are you using with your camera? Thanks!
Great. I hope it works well for you. I use the Sony ECMCS3 stereo mic.
Thanks scoot
Cheers Joseph :-)
Did this to mine, I didn't notice much if any difference. It ran well in stock form. It's not as lean now so that's good.
I felt the low speed throttle response was smoothed out nicely, but yeah the differences in other regards are quite subtle. Like you say, hopefully not as lean now :-)
Not to be insulting but I doubt you're the observative type. The mapping is HORRIBLE from factory and the bike is riddled with low rpm jerking, surging, stuttering and stammering. It's practically unrideable to crawl in 1st and I can feel chopiness throughout the rpm range even cruising.
@phantomshTTer I would say I'm about average as far as observation. It just ran fine, even at low RPM. My buddy has the same bike, they're both '21s. At the time we got em, mine had 63 miles, his had 43. He got the ECU done before I did mine. We switched bikes for a little while and I remember thinking at the time it made such little difference I was hesitant to get mine updated. Maybe I got a runner lol.
@@Scoottoots That's just from added fuel.
@@JimmiZero Yes of course, richer mixture and some shuffling of the closed loop parameters smooths out the throttle response, somewhat
I’ve just ordered one of these ECU’s. Hopefully it does the trick 😊
Let us know what you think once you have it.
@@Scoottoots It is excellent. Money well spent 🙂
@@jameseaves71 Cool. Glad to hear it 🙂
Did full race yoshi, DNA air filter and 91 Oct flash now its a rocket!
Awesome! The Yoshi is a good system. I had a full Yoshi on my 250L.
What is the difference between the ECU stages? I'm new to this world and am a beginner. Thank you.
As always, great video and thank you for sharing you knowledge and experience. I’ve installed a full yoshi exhaust and 91 stage 1 ECU from 550 performance. I’m curious, have you still got the snorkel out?
Thanks Ian. Yes, I still have the snorkel removed. Seems good that way to me. Another option is to get some 2" inside diameter rubber elbow from the hardware store. Trace the outline on the top of the airbox over the existing hole and cut a new opening. You have to make it an oval to fit. Cut the elbow down but leave some to protrude from the top of the air box to keep any migrating water out. That's how I handled it on my crf250l with a full Yoshi exhaust, ejk controller, and freer flow air filter.
@@Scoottoots I’m going to try it without the snorkel for bit. I really don’t ride in the rain, unless I find myself caught out in a storm, and I don’t foresee and deep water crossings. Depending on how it runs, I may just leave it out or modify it as you mentioned.
@@LynamUp10 Yeah, may as well experiment and see where it leads you :-)
Just be careful. Brother and son both have 300L’s and the air filter was Black from off-roading… not sure if removing the snorkel will increase chances of more dirt water getting in. Look into getting a uni filter pre filter snorkel type to slide over snorkel and stock filter will
Remain clean. 😉
@@TheZakkmylde Yeah, I've seen a lot of owners reporting that. Can't understand why it should be different from the 250L which never had an issue in that regard. The snorkel draws from a similar location. Perhaps Honda has used a stickier adhesive on the new filters. That said, I ride solo so I never have to suck in dust from others, and the bike doesn't kick much up into the area the snorkel draws from. Another point worth mentioning is, I've noticed some riders not understanding that the surface folds of the pleats gather most of the dirt, but it's the inner sides of the pleats that draw the air. So a filter can look black and caked from the outside, but pry open the pleats and it may still be acceptably clean. The performance is a good indicator of the air filter state. It'll start underperforming if it really is caked up. My filter is doing okay at 6,000 kms. I'm not a fan of the pre-filter concept. I get that it preserves the air filter, but it does inhibit the intake further. I'd rather keep an eye on my filter and replace when needed (they cannot be cleaned) and retain good air flow. The stock filters are exceptionally good, and when the backfire screen is removed, they flow about as much as aftermarket filters.
I'm trying thr Thai ECU first. If it doesn't smooth the throttle enough I'm sending it to 550. Figured it was worth a shot at $100 shipped. Cheaper than the 550 core charge for another ECU. Mainly did it because I was tired of feeling like my right leg is on fire at every red light.
I'm not familiar. Is this Thai ECU just the stock Thai ECU or an aftermarket one? I think enrichment helps with the heat issue on the right leg but it won't correct it on an otherwise stock bike. Let us know how this goes for you please.
@@Scoottoots it's an OEM Honda ECU that has a different fuel map because of the less stringent emissions.
It did indeed reduce heat and the fan kicks on far less. I can also get the front tire up in 2nd without and clutch. Just preload and pull.
Plug and play for US bikes.
@@marcochavane3124 Hey that's great. Nice to find solutions that work for you. Good to know. Enjoy 🙂
@@marcochavane3124 where did you find this ECU?
I bought a new bike in the Philippines that came stock with a Thai ECU. I can' speak about the difference in power between it and a US ECU, but I can tell you that it, like the US bikes, is impossible to ride in the first two gears. It's either on or off and there's no in between. Similarly in the higher gears the deceleration is abrupt and not smooth. I just ordered a stock 550 ECU to replace it and will be heading over in late January to install and try. I'm hoping that the new ECU along with a throttle tamer will make it a hell of a lot better to ride in stop and go traffic as well as the technical trails.
Just got my ECU installed (Stock Improved), definitely notice the bike being less jerky. I didn’t change anything with the stock air tubes or the exhaust but did put on the new 550 air box cover and a high performance filter and the bike sounds a little more throaty, not really louder just a lower sounding tone. Did you experience anything like this?
I live in Texas now but grew up on Lake Chelan in Washington, watching your videos sure reminds me of that area.
Yes definitely, opening the intake even a little creates a deeper induction sound. More satisfying. Wow, big difference between Texas and Washington state. I hope you're enjoying where you live now :-)
Was that Eddie Van Halen at the end of the video?
It would have been cool if it was!
EVH RIP. The world is not the same without you.
Gee, not sure what you're referring to at the end of the video. Yeah, would be cool though :-)
Even at fast idle, shutting off throttle gives a slower rate of reduction to idle.
My Stock Improved ecu (UK) feels much better and makes me grin that I've now got the bike I purchased.
That's good to hear. The enrichment will make the engine happier over the long term :-)
Great video! What did you feel about the fuel consumption? Had any impact? Thanks mate! Cheers!
That's yet to be seen. I'll be filling up soon and I'll check it then. I'll report back in a video
Hi mate! It’s me again… how you feel now about fuel consumption? Any impacts for good or bad? Any other reviews on this ECU worth sharing with us? I heard the gearing feels better when riding 6th gear in not so high speed (my stock bike feels a bit asthmatic at 65km/h without downshifting to regain speed)..How do you feel about that? Thanks :) Cheers!
So, you have lived with this ECU for a bit, any further thoughts on it? Is it worth it without doing any other mods? I am considering the same one, but want to know that it makes a difference in a good way, and not lose too much fuel economy...Thanks
Well, for me it has been worth it. I have found no difference in fuel economy. That is likely due to keeping the closed loop mode (steady throttle at medium to high rpm) F/A mixture much the same as stock, while increasing power and therefore efficiency on acceleration. I do find an increase in power and response; nothing significant, but noticeable and useful. Just enriching the open loop mode a tad is worth it for best engine health.
This is the ECU (stock improved 87 octane) that I am interested in. I don’t really want to change out the exhaust. You mention a lot of pros; are there any cons?
No, I haven't experienced any downside. Even the fuel economy hasn't suffered.
I'm definitely interested in smoothing out the throttle response. What was the total cost to your door?
I'm in Canada, so in Canadian dollars it was $420 for the new ecu. They charged a very reasonable shipping amount which was appreciated. So many companies charge 4 times the actual amount when shipping to Canada; so unfair. Btw, after riding more, the throttle response at low speed is definitely improved, however the on/off portion is still somewhat abrupt. Once the gas is on it is smoother.
Me too, West Koots. So duty, taxes et al? Shipping is outrageous these days. I think a lot of companies are taking advantage of the circumstances to charge a grotesque amount. Keep up the great work!
@@darylelder1352 Yeah, I'll be getting a K-Tech shock on Tuesday. The cheapest shipping option was UPS for over $100 CAD, then I had to pay an additional $110 to UPS for brokerage, taxes, and such. Sad, but it'll be a welcome addition to the bike for many years to come.
I have same bike, not having a go at you but if I wanted more power I would have brought a 450
No worries, I understand. I quite like the 300L and knew the type of bike it is before I purchased, as I put 62,000 kms on a CRF250L prior to this. I'm not wanting to get the most power possible out it. I am just refining the performance to suit the riding experience I want from the bike; not to make it something it isn't intended to be. The ECU swap improves throttle response, cools the engine down, and adds a small boost in power that enhances the bike's natural capabilities. The reasoning is much the same as changing the shock. The total rear wheel travel is 10.2 inches and yet my rider sag just sitting on the bike was 6 inches and I am average weight (180lb). Coupled with very poor damping, it lead to an extremely wallowy-bouncy ride that is quite unpleasant and can be dangerous on twisty roads with minor undulations. I understand the bike is built to a budget and there were some oversights on Honda's part (the shock in my old 250L was quite acceptable). So the changes I am making are to bring the 300L up to a higher standard. More the bike it would be if Honda decided to charge $1000 more for it. Not trying to make it a hard enduro monster or motocross bike. It'll never be that, not would I want it to be.
Hahaha !!! I knew you would NOT leave it stock, because I know the story 😜
LOL, I couldn't resist playing a bit. I see it as personalizing the bike :-)
@@Scoottoots I have said and done EXACTLY the same, you just cant help yourself...it is fun on top of that 👍
@@randersson3672 You're right, it's part of the fun of owning a bike like this :-)
Speeds have been a major concern over what bike I'll buy & I see here that you're running at speeds over 120 which is close to
the 70mph - 80mph that are the speed limits where I live. Have you opened the air intake or any other mods? Heck, I'll stop
being lazy & go digg thru your stuff. thanks for the video
The highest speed I had it up to when it was bone stock in ideal conditions when the bike was in a good mood on a level road, no wind, was 144 kph. Reliable speeds are up to 130 kph or thereabouts. It'll happily cruise at 110 to 120 kph. So it's good to go at average highway speeds without fuss. Not that suitable for super-fast highways. Cheers 🙂
Riding at local speeds was one of my requirements for ANY bike I buy. Thanks for your work(s)
Did the stage 1 87 octane. If you get a full exhaust it gets faster. Top end not as much as mid range.
I'm no longer a fan of aftermarket exhausts for a single cylinder engine like this. I don't care for the sound it makes. I had a full Yoshi system on the 250L and it was a love/hate relationship. This stock exhaust is audible with the slight mods I've done, so that's satisfying on the noise front and it has enough performance to satisfy me also. But yes, definitely some untapped power that you can unlock with a the right exhaust and other tuning.
@@Scoottoots I agree with you on the sound thing. It's just that the header is so much bigger, that's where the power is made if you care.
@@pg6576 Yes, I know how flow dynamics, especially in the header, affect power production. The header is the big restrictor in this bike. For me, at the moment, I'm not wanting power at the expense of riding pleasure. That aftermarket exhaust sound is not nearly as pleasant as what I hear now. Choices :-)
Does adding this do anything to the warranty ? Is this 550 91 and 87 octane improved ecu from the honda factory ? Is this a up date of some type ?
No, this is an aftermarket product. I would not do this until your warrantee period has past, just incase ;-)
Ok, so the second summer is already rolling back around down here in the south, and it will be the second summer that I will have had my Rally, and I would really like to see if I can get the fan to stop kicking on and off all day like it loves to do on this bike... It was only 74 degrees Fahrenheit today, and that is exactly what it did all day long. It gets brutally hot down here in June-August, so it basically stays on during those months. I guess I’ll start preparing now, and pull my ECU out and send it in to 550 performance. Again, im not doing this with the any expectations of a power increase, but mostly to reduce that jerky on off throttle, and try and smooth that out, and hopefully, it will just be an added bonus if the fan gets less run time this summer...
I suppose it will since the stock improved 87 octane will allow it to run slightly hitcher, right? I modified my exhaust the same way that you did yours, and I plan to do the air box mod like you have done, so I should be good to go, right? Also, with the stock improved 87 I’ll be able to run any gas in the bike won’t I? I have been running premium in my bike since I’ve owned it, but with the stock improved, I guess I will be running 87 non ethanol mostly, if the station I pull up to every time has it... But if they don’t have it, , it’ will be fine to run whatever they have, correct? Thanks for the advice. I’m going to pull the ECU this evening.
Yes, the richer mixture will help cool it down, and yes, you can use whatever octane gas you want with the 87 octane 550 ecu tune without any issues. That said, this bike does not have the high compression, and with the 87 octane tune does not have highly enough advanced ignition timing, that would require higher than 87 octane.
Other than often less ethanol content, there is no advantage in performance or engine health to use higher octane. Higher octane is modified to burn slower and be less volatile, to compensate for the effects of high compression ratio and/or highly advanced ignition timing. There is more power per unit in 87 octane.
Another suggestion is to swap the stock coolant for Engine Ice coolant. It works well to keep temps from climbing high. I used it in my 250L and the difference was quite noticeable. Enjoy:-)
@@Scoottoots Engine Ice! Right on! Thank you thank you thank you!
@@Scoottoots well, I got my ECU reinstalled. And as I was letting the bike run for a minute or two, while I let my radiator burp the air bubbles out while I topped it off with the new engine ice coolant, my RPM’s set right at 2k the entire time. That’s a lot higher of an idle speed than yours isn’t it? After about a minute I blipped the throttle a couple of times, but it just stayed at 2k... Also, I never had a check engine light on my dash. Kinda strange eh? I haven’t had a chance to ride it yet, I have the Rally, so I still have to get all the plastics back on first.
@@airadaimagery692 Yeah, mine idles at 1500 instead of the stock 1440 rpm once it's up to temperature. Getting up to temp may take a few minutes of idling though. If your idle remains at 2000 rpm after riding let's say, then there's something amiss. If that were the case I would get in touch with 550 performance and discuss that with him. So either let it idle for 5 minutes then check, or go for a ride then check it. The dash check light visual seems different for everyone.
@@Scoottoots yeah hopefully I’ll get a chance to ride it tomorrow and see if the idle falls back down once it reaches running temps. Thanks.
You should open up your airbox a little more now, and get a HiFlo filter cheap for $20 now that u got it richer. That should really boost your low/mid range throttle.
I guess I didn't mention it but I removed the snorkel and enlarged the opening of the air box. I also removed the backfire screen from the filter. HiFloFiltro do not make an air filter for the 300L; only an oil filter. The DNA filter is ridiculously overpriced, K&N do not make one yet, and and the UNI foam filter from Australia is a no-go for me. I have experience with them on the 250L. Not good. The stock filter is excellent, especially with the screen removed. Not much chance of a backfire igniting it. Over time I'll tweak things here and there, but it performs really well now. Cheers 🙂
@@Scoottoots ah, u got it then. Cant believe how much the lid off, screen cut out, better air filter made so much more torque on my klx. I remember seeing your 250L vids, glad u got a 300 and making vids on it
@@tieoneon1614 I loved my 250L, and this one is a better bike. It also fits me better ergonomically. It's a keeper 🙂
Hi sir, is your Crf300l experiencing a rpm surge at indle couple minutes after you first start it?
No surge, but sometimes the idle on first start is not as steady as with the stock ECU
I owned 2 550 ECUs - they both made my bike surge at idle because the fuel mapping was done incorrectly on BOTH! it was WAY too lean and nearly destroyed my engine.
@@JimmiZero Are you saying he flashed the ecu to be leaner than stock in open loop mode? When you say, "nearly destroyed my engine," did you have actual engine damage?
Why not EJK? Seemed to give me a slight boost.
I like the EJK controllers. I used one on my crf250l for many years. I opted for the ECU on the 300L because a properly flashed ECU offers more options to manage the fueling in both open and closed loop modes, plus the ignition timing can be advanced for a bit more kick. With an ECU you can also modify things like idle speed, rpm limiter, etc.
Very interesting mod! I would really like to smooth out the low end throttle jerkiness on my CRF300L. Can you tell what it is doing to the gas mileage? If a person installed an aftermarket ECU and didn’t like it for some reason could the original ECU be reverted back to without creating issues for the motorcycle? Thanks
I can't say yet how the economy is affected. I'll know that soon though and I'll be sure to update you all on how this goes. I filled up just now but I only used less than a 1/3 of the tank with the new ecu. The mpg however were the same as I have been getting lately, so it may not have much impact on mpg. If you wanted to have 550 Performance flash your stock ecu, I imagine he could flash it back to original specs (ask him though), but perhaps the best way is to do as I did. I purchased a completely new ecu from them. That way if I want to revert I can swap back to the stock unit.
@@Scoottoots My CRF300L is completely stock as far as the engine and exhaust are concerned. I would think the new ECU would still help smooth out the low speed throttle? Thanks
@@donreed1133 Well, I can say that it helped with the low speed throttle control in my case. It didn't completely eliminate the on/off suddenness, but it diminished that and smoothed out the control on slight throttle inputs. I have a bad right wrist which exaggerates the issue for me, so any help in that department is welcomed.
@@Scoottoots I have ordered a new ECU like you got so I’ll let you know how it does for me. Thanks
@@donreed1133 That'd be great. I hope it meets your expectations. Talk again when you get it :-)
Do you get any deceleration pop with the ECU & modified spark arrestor?
Yes, a little now and then. Not much though.
@@ScoottootsSame just wanted to make sure I wasn’t the only one 😂.
Com um upgrade de conjunto de distribuiçao ajuda muito . Nao sei quais as combinaçoes certas para fazer estrada e todo terreno . Quantos dentes na frente e atras
I use the stock gearing of 14/42 front/back. The gearbox is nicely geared for descent off road performance while having tall high gears for highway.
@@Scoottoots going check my se if i can improve highs a lower gears performance
Hi, i read it has 91 Octane version too.. anyone knows if it can be used with Octane 95/98? The lowest octane in my area is Octane 95..
Your country must be using the RON method of octane rating (EU for instance). 95 octane using RON ratings is the same as 91 octane in North American rating system. So the 91 octane version of the ECU would be for use with 95 octane gasoline if you are in Europe, etc.
@@Scoottoots thank u so much for the clarification. This will help a lot. Yes you are right my country uses RON(EU) classication.
Scoot, have you noticed any fuel mileage differences with the 550 ecu mod?
I have checked the mpg on every fill and it seems about the same as before the ECU install. I know that it is running richer especially in open loop mode by the performance and a bit more blacking on the tailpipe, so I suspect some increased efficiency is at play, plus the trimming in closed loop mode keeping economy high.
I bet the 87 octane ECU outperforms the stock ECU with 91 octane gas.
Yes, especially since there is no performance gain in using 91 octane with the stock ECU. The only gain with added octane is when the ignition timing is significantly advanced, which requires flashing the ECU, or in high compression engines to prevent pre-detonation. Higher octane is less volatile; slower to ignite under pressure.
Did it hurt the MPG?
No, there was no perceivable change, and I calculate mpg at every fill.
@@Scoottoots really interesting!
I really don't understand why a company like Honda with it's vast resources and time they have to get a product perfect before release, how it can be that somebody in the aftermarket can tune the bike far better. I do not believe they (Honda) avoided doing their best so that leaves me to question what could the reason be to not release this engine doing at least what it is with this ECU map.
As a guide for those outside USA, EU = rest of world incl Japan, Australia, New Zealand etc
EU 91 RON = US 87
EU 95 RON = US 91
EU 98 RON = US 93
Thanks for the conversions. A lot of people get those confused. Regarding the tune, it's not that Honda is leaving performance and engine efficiency on the table. Honda by law has to tune it, prioritizing emissions, sound levels, etc., and in the process fuel economy numbers for marketing purposes. Aftermarket tuning is directed towards reversing some of these measures, allowing the engine to breathe better and enriching the mixture, enabling the engine to run a bit cooler and smoother. This provides a bit more longevity, better rideability, and some extra power. Hope that makes sense.
💚💛💙👍👍112
Deckil
I ride at 9000 to 12000 feet. So... I'll leave it alone.
Yes, I think you'd be good to go as is :-)
16.15 I think you took power away from the bike.
Not sure what you mean by 16.15. Not a time mark as the video is only 10 minutes long. As for the power. The enrichment, especially in open loop mode, benefits engine life and most definitely adds power where where it's most appreciated. The slight advance to ignition timing also adds better power response.
Really sad what your money gets you from oem. Absolutely pathetic excuse for a factory tune on these bikes. I waited 2.5 years for Yamaha to drop a replacement for the WR and finally got tired of waiting and strayed from my 100% blue blood lifer status. Between the brake hose debacle, non-existent suspension and the god awful jerky, surging, stuttering and stammering this thing does below 4k I feel like Honda spat in my face for a first impression. NEVER AGAIN! My old XT250 is a better bike
Ah, sorry to hear that. True, it's a budget bike. Far less expensive than the WR250R was. The suspension, especially the shock on this bike, is laughable and even dangerous with its unsettled bounciness when negotiating corner after corner on a road that is not perfect. For the money though, and with a few modifications, it can become a good bike that'll go forever on basic maintenance. With proper suspension, and some getting used to the throttle, it performs quite well. My first motorcycle was a 305 two stroke Yamaha. I've always liked Yamaha; just haven't purchased one in recent years. I'd like to though.
@Scoot Toots It has potential, I just feel it's a very insulting release. To sell a bike that needs suspension straight off the floor is just plain wrong from a moral and ethical standpoint and in principle alone... like... this suspension isn't acceptable for 90% of the market buyers. So why would Honda release it in the European market? The fuel mapping at low rpm is so bad for a beginner bike, I'd HATE to learn to ride with this as my first experience learning throttle control. I feel like it's become acceptable common practice to sell half completed products anymore. That's why I'm so mad about this Honda release, it's the blatant "idgaf" feeling gesture on their part. What if somebody buys this and doesn't have $1500 extra to throw at the suspension straight away? I mean... it should come with one ffs. I know Yamaha would never release a half effort like this and rightfully so. I'm a perfectionist by nature myself and feel this just falls so far from an acceptable release end product of a long established multi billion dollar international manufacturing company.
@@phantomshtter I totally get it. I was surprised when it first came out that the retail was pennies higher than the 250L with all the improvements Honda made to this model over the 250L. HOnda cheaped out in the worst possible way though with the sad suspension. I agree it wouldn't suit 90% of riders, assuming 90% of riders know what suspension should be like. The throttle, yeah it's pretty choppy, but so many new bikes are similar. I would have gladly paid another thousand if the bike came set up properly. I went with it because I know how reliable and fun the 250L was for me. When I saw the major changes they made over the 250L I was hoping the suspension would be capable of supporting the potential of those changes. All that engineering is pointless if the suspension doesn't allow you to ride the bike to its designed sweet spots. Oh well. In Canadian funds I paid $7400 out the door with taxes and all the fees. So now I've put in another $1000 on performance and handling: suspension front and rear and the 550 ECU. So $8400 CAD total cost and it now performs and handles quite well, both on moderate dirt and tarmac twisties. That's $6300 USD. Can't get that pricing on a Yamaha, so there's that.
Congratulations, you just wasted $150.00
???