I cut all of the rivets out with a grinder took the whole selection out to insure no flaws then took a Irwin Phillips head screw bit and plug the bottom of the vlom tight fit.. Works flawless 2008 GMC envoy denali
just modded my 2015 5.3 a bit different but same idea had to trim the port inserts channel i got in my release tool kit from you (which worked great) thanks!
You've removed the solenoid and disconnected the electrical connector inside the VLOM. My question is what do you do with electrical plug on the outside? If it's attached to the VLOM will it cause electricity to go randomly inside ? And will errors register like that and if it's unplugged also get errors?
I assume the truck goes into limp mode by this method since there is no connection to the solenoids ! But creating leaky seals instead does not make it go “limp” !! Also y wouldn’t the range deactivator save you from going into the computer to modify it ?? Great vids ! Thanks for being patient and devoted to teaching us almost mechanics !!!
I have the riveted style. I removed the bigger of two o-rings on the solenoids and cut a grove where big o-ring was and reassembled. seems to be preventing from building oil pressure to individual lifters. hopefully I can drive until I get ecm reprogrammed?
Send the ecm to lt1swap.com but as long as you have it room to get out of the the towers and prevent the feed hole under the sensor from feeding thing you will be ok. Watch my latest video starting at 27:17 I also show how it responds without a tune so you know what to expect.
thanks for these videos i just installed and use your tool worked out ,lifter is unstuck took out the solenoids plugged the port but i didn't get the new plug you made with the slit on it. is the the old mod plug just as good or should i cut a slit into it ? please let me know sending my ECM to LTswap to tune it i'm hoping this will solve my problem. keep you posted.
Great Input . I have 2 stock engines. Swaping into 50s trucks. Ran fine. I wanted to do your suggestion to vlom modify and have the ecu flashed and dod deleted at ecu. One is a 6.2 with vvt and afm out of a cadillac escalade and a the other a 5.3 afm out of a avalanche Both 08 years. Keeping that stock cam and stock lifters in place should give me reliability is what I understand correct?
I'm thinking the riveted vlom without the humps. is not letting enough oil pressure out fast enough to lube those valves and causing tapping. what you think?
I didnt see there was 2 different vlom plates. I have the riveted one . but i broke gaskets circles like the 1st example.. Is it still usable? Do i still need to remove the 4 solenoids?
@@paulimendoza4998 so its been completed. I cut notches in the gasket just lik he showed and plugged it with that plug. Worked perfect. I used the same head bolts too. Torqued to 25lb, 45ftlb and finally 65, I got the ecm flashed at a local tuner. Cause if not it runs thinking the dod is in place so you have strange lag times at various speeds.
Love your videos! I had a question that you might be able to answer... I have a 2011 Tahoe Hybrid with just under 78,000 miles. It's basically been problem-free since it was new. I'm now noticing a thud when the AFM disengages when cruising at highway speeds (this is most noticeable going from V4 to V8 and less noticeable when engaging - V8 to V4..) The thud seems to be more noticeable when under load (small highway incline, etc.) I don't have any alerts or codes (I don't have a way to scan but there are no messages on the console) and I don't have any engine miss (that is noticeable, anyway). I know there's a lot of info online about VLOM and AFM lifter failures but I don't see this being the case - it really feels like it's transmission/torque converter(dampener assembly for Hybrids)/lock up-related... I'm not noticing any other transmission-related issues though. Shifts fine under hard acceleration, etc. On a side note: I just had a full transmission, differential, engine oil (basically all fluids) changed at around 75K (shortly before noticing this behavior) but I can't come close to pinning it on that, specifically. Any ideas what this could be?
I changed the lifters on my 2010 Yukon 6.2, I went to the parts store to get a new VLOM. The original Vlom im wanting to pull off the motor is the one you show on the left. The part the auto store gave me is the one you show on the right with the rivets. Question is are these vloms compatible can I use either one for my engine? Is the the one on the right with rivets just a updated version.
Yes, both work the same in theory. I've heard of quite a few having issues with new VLOM though. So don't fall for a new part is a good part of you end up with a issue. It's not that likely though but does happen.
Hey I have a 2003 5.3 suburban and the lifters tick I changed the oil and found the pin locks from the top of the lifter in the oil.. is that normal? 250000 miles
So I have 240K miles on 2007 Tahoe and no lifter noise but have low pressure after approximately 1 hour of driving replaced oil pump which I don't think was needed. Can't I just replace the VLOM and get the desired results?
You can try the screen under the oil pressure sensor. Sometimes it will get restricted. If that doesn't work shut the system off before a lifter collapses. I recommend LT1swap.com for this.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair replaced that already (first). Then, I had to take it to a mechanic because I was out of state and he really had no idea about DoD issues so he just did the standard oil pressure tests and then replaced the oil pump. I told him I didn't think it was the oil pump because they don't typically go bad (big burly gears). I had replaced the oil pump pick-up O-ring a year before and it was definitely rock hard. I thought that was the answer but watching your videos I will look for a stuck lifter next. Should you just replace the VLOM if you have it apart? You show notching the VLOM gaskets as a work around. Why wouldn't you just replace the VLOM? Also, have replaced that screen twice. once myself and then the mechanic that replaced the oil pump. When I checked it, no debris on the screen.
@@johnsummers778 I do the VLOM mod to prevent re collapse see ruclips.net/video/xFr8TxgxJow/видео.html for more on that. Changing the VLOM will not help oil pressure you likely have something else worn out. You could maybe have a worn cam bearing, see ruclips.net/video/XMo9qgQ40QQ/видео.html for more on that. What is your hot idle oil pressure?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair , my oil pressure starts at around 38 and then drops below 20 at hot. When I set up my dshboard screen to show when the DoD kicks in (V4/V8) the Tahoe vibrates when switching between the two. Once the oil pressure drops to 20 it does take long to go further down. If I'm watching the screen and keep it out of DoD V4, it seems to stay above 20 and get me home.
Just sold the last one I had available last week. I could sell one without a connector for cheaper. You will need the tune done prior to running it at all with it though. Maybe I'll get luck and the 2 I recently sold will send me cores. Then I can prepare more.
Great videos on AFM system! Do you have any suggestions on why the riveted VLOM does not have any bleed off orifices? Also does the riveted VLOM have the inner filter screens/gasket like the bolted style?
I have not cut one open yet put it appears that it has no screens. I believe the bleed off orifices are built in with the solenoid when DOD is not activated.
I want to thank you for doing these videos, I have watched several already and shared to get them out to friends of mine. What video should I watch to diagnose if it is the cam ,lifter or the vlom? I have a 2009 GMC Sierra no noise but a good miss to it and a 2008 Tahoe with a very loud tick/knock. Thanks and I will be ordering the tools from you.
Thanks for the reply. I checked the 09 sierra out and #4 is where my problem is. 1 rocker is very loose. "I think it is #4 exhaust" 4th rocker from the front passenger side. the truck has just a very, very slight tick if you rev it a little otherwise quite at idle but the rocker does not move at all running. collapsed lifter? Thanks again and if that's what you think it is as well I will be ordering the tool and vlom delete kit.
@@jackmac9569 if you checked compression on cylinder 4 more than once I bet it would be inconsistent... If the rocker is loose than this is likely the most affordable way to try and fix it. Do the kit so you get the plug and cross your fingers that it releases. Be sure to check out the best practice video before you tackle it. ruclips.net/video/628gz05Vy9Q/видео.html
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair so the clamped in black sensor that is called the electrical something something I know I sound dumb but I don’t believe it’s the cam shaft sensor I feel like it has a proper name
I stole a vlom off a 6.2 that has a flat plate with just the bolt holes a the oil pressure sensor with o rings to go around were the stand in the middle are
I bought an 08 Z71 the other day blindly because it was a decent deal for the miles & shape. I got it cheap because it has this collapsed lifter bs. I am a mechanic that used to own a shop but since I've gotten older, I just work on my own stuff. After a bunch of research on this subject, I think the best thing is to just fix the issue & sell to move on to another brand. GM really screwed the pooch on this crap design. What a nightmare.
All vehicles have flaw's. With that said the GM issues are all in the valve train. If a guy wanted to keep one all you would have to do is a afm/dod delete. I've seen these things well over 400k mi on the original bottom end. The top end is the problem. The rest of the vehicle like suspension and trans is just as reliable as any other. I'm not sure why GM thought people bought a V8 to have a 4 cylinder anyway. Stupid idea, not like the system adds much fuel efficiency anyway.
@@robertbush9355 if the valve stuck from carbon in the stem guide it could have stuck for just long enough open the third piston hit it and shut it. Then if it bent it it will leak and thus misfire
I cut all of the rivets out with a grinder took the whole selection out to insure no flaws then took a Irwin Phillips head screw bit and plug the bottom of the vlom tight fit.. Works flawless 2008 GMC envoy denali
Nice haha well whatever works
That's exactly what I did yesterday to mine too, worked amazing! My trucks alive again!!
What did you do for the computer?
What is or where can i get the gluam plug the ting on the oil sensor ting?? Thank you @@CrazedPerformanceRepair
@@duracol8487 www.crazedperformancerepair.com/shop
Thanks!
Awesome, Thank you! This is a older video though. You may want to see this one ruclips.net/video/xFr8TxgxJow/видео.html for more updated information.
I just found your vid that answers my questions below !! You seem to cover all the bases if we look at all your vids !! :-))
Awesome!
Isn't plugging the oil galley enough? I would think that would prevent oil from feeding into the vlom altogether
just modded my 2015 5.3 a bit different but same idea had to trim the port inserts channel i got in my release tool kit from you (which worked great) thanks!
What is the name of the sensor the electrical port next to the cams
When using your kit. Plug the little filter doesn't fit any more. Is it ok to not use a filter on the oil pressure sensor?
Why do you have to plug the oil pressure sensor??
You've removed the solenoid and disconnected the electrical connector inside the VLOM.
My question is what do you do with electrical plug on the outside? If it's attached to the VLOM will it cause electricity to go randomly inside ? And will errors register like that and if it's unplugged also get errors?
I assume the truck goes into limp mode by this method since there is no connection to the solenoids ! But creating leaky seals instead does not make it go “limp” !! Also y wouldn’t the range deactivator save you from going into the computer to modify it ?? Great vids ! Thanks for being patient and devoted to teaching us almost mechanics !!!
mine its also rivered and mined to change the whole gasket bcuz the gasket set dint bring the middle ones. how do I modify it?
I have the riveted style. I removed the bigger of two o-rings on the solenoids and cut a grove where big o-ring was and reassembled. seems to be preventing from building oil pressure to individual lifters. hopefully I can drive until I get ecm reprogrammed?
Send the ecm to lt1swap.com but as long as you have it room to get out of the the towers and prevent the feed hole under the sensor from feeding thing you will be ok. Watch my latest video starting at 27:17 I also show how it responds without a tune so you know what to expect.
thanks for these videos i just installed and use your tool worked out ,lifter is unstuck took out the solenoids plugged the port but i didn't get the new plug you made with the slit on it. is the the old mod plug just as good or should i cut a slit into it ? please let me know sending my ECM to LTswap to tune it i'm hoping this will solve my problem. keep you posted.
Does the vlom connector have to be plugged back in ??
Great Input . I have 2 stock engines. Swaping into 50s trucks. Ran fine. I wanted to do your suggestion to vlom modify and have the ecu flashed and dod deleted at ecu. One is a 6.2 with vvt and afm out of a cadillac escalade and a the other a 5.3 afm out of a avalanche Both 08 years. Keeping that stock cam and stock lifters in place should give me reliability is what I understand correct?
It might give you reliability, however the lifter could still rotate in the plastic lifter tray. It will still be more reliable than a 50s engine.
How do you change the gasket on the one that has rivets
I'm thinking the riveted vlom without the humps. is not letting enough oil pressure out fast enough to lube those valves and causing tapping. what you think?
Nah, they all fail.
I did find that it had some little circle filters up under that metal piece
Yes and they can get plugged and cause a failure
Seriously think that I might pass on the sf trunk I'm lookin' at, 45 out of the gate if havin' s pressure so thnks for info
I didnt see there was 2 different vlom plates. I have the riveted one . but i broke gaskets circles like the 1st example.. Is it still usable? Do i still need to remove the 4 solenoids?
I done the same thing today,just broke the gaskets and plugged the sensor hole,but didn't remove the solenoids
What did you end up doing? Did cutting the ring gaskets work on the rivetted one?
I did the same thing lol hope we’re doing something right
@@paulimendoza4998 so its been completed. I cut notches in the gasket just lik he showed and plugged it with that plug. Worked perfect. I used the same head bolts too. Torqued to 25lb, 45ftlb and finally 65, I got the ecm flashed at a local tuner. Cause if not it runs thinking the dod is in place so you have strange lag times at various speeds.
@@mobius-1503
When you use the plug we dont use the screen filter any more?
I had my computer tuned out DoD can I put a plain valley pan cover on my 5.3 2009 sierra its leaking like to replace when torn apart
Not unless you changed the lifters. Get a new gasket if it leaks on outside. Could also do my VLOM mod if you wanted do long as system is tuned out.
Love your videos!
I had a question that you might be able to answer... I have a 2011 Tahoe Hybrid with just under 78,000 miles. It's basically been problem-free since it was new. I'm now noticing a thud when the AFM disengages when cruising at highway speeds (this is most noticeable going from V4 to V8 and less noticeable when engaging - V8 to V4..) The thud seems to be more noticeable when under load (small highway incline, etc.)
I don't have any alerts or codes (I don't have a way to scan but there are no messages on the console) and I don't have any engine miss (that is noticeable, anyway). I know there's a lot of info online about VLOM and AFM lifter failures but I don't see this being the case - it really feels like it's transmission/torque converter(dampener assembly for Hybrids)/lock up-related... I'm not noticing any other transmission-related issues though. Shifts fine under hard acceleration, etc.
On a side note: I just had a full transmission, differential, engine oil (basically all fluids) changed at around 75K (shortly before noticing this behavior) but I can't come close to pinning it on that, specifically.
Any ideas what this could be?
How do you keep the harmonic balancer pulley from spinning while you'll tightening the crankshaft bolt
I hold the flex plate with a wrench wedged between the torque converter and the flex plate threw the hole in the transmission bell housing.
I changed the lifters on my 2010 Yukon 6.2, I went to the parts store to get a new VLOM. The original Vlom im wanting to pull off the motor is the one you show on the left. The part the auto store gave me is the one you show on the right with the rivets. Question is are these vloms compatible can I use either one for my engine? Is the the one on the right with rivets just a updated version.
Yes, both work the same in theory. I've heard of quite a few having issues with new VLOM though. So don't fall for a new part is a good part of you end up with a issue. It's not that likely though but does happen.
So if I got the riveted one I don't have to plug the oil hole under the sending unit I just got to pull the solenoids ?
Do as I do in this video ruclips.net/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/видео.html
Sir how to remove gasket ther is no bolt
Hey I have a 2003 5.3 suburban and the lifters tick I changed the oil and found the pin locks from the top of the lifter in the oil.. is that normal? 250000 miles
That vehicle is not equipped with AFM however, no that is not normal.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair right on. Lifter failed completely.. the cam took out the roller on the lifter. Lol definitely not normal lol. Thx
Definitely not an a.f.m. motor but there are 2 things on the vlom that have a wire going to em any ideas on what they do?
@@arak17iv77 that's not a VLOM, it's just the valley cover. That one is old enough that is where the knock sensors are located.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair oh cool thanks for your help. I appreciate it. Like the channel alot
how do you know if the lifter in the right height to hit the lock?
Try bottom of lobe first then go to top of lobe and try again.
what the torque spec
\
So I have 240K miles on 2007 Tahoe and no lifter noise but have low pressure after approximately 1 hour of driving replaced oil pump which I don't think was needed. Can't I just replace the VLOM and get the desired results?
You can try the screen under the oil pressure sensor. Sometimes it will get restricted. If that doesn't work shut the system off before a lifter collapses. I recommend LT1swap.com for this.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair replaced that already (first). Then, I had to take it to a mechanic because I was out of state and he really had no idea about DoD issues so he just did the standard oil pressure tests and then replaced the oil pump. I told him I didn't think it was the oil pump because they don't typically go bad (big burly gears). I had replaced the oil pump pick-up O-ring a year before and it was definitely rock hard. I thought that was the answer but watching your videos I will look for a stuck lifter next. Should you just replace the VLOM if you have it apart? You show notching the VLOM gaskets as a work around. Why wouldn't you just replace the VLOM? Also, have replaced that screen twice. once myself and then the mechanic that replaced the oil pump. When I checked it, no debris on the screen.
@@johnsummers778 I do the VLOM mod to prevent re collapse see ruclips.net/video/xFr8TxgxJow/видео.html for more on that. Changing the VLOM will not help oil pressure you likely have something else worn out. You could maybe have a worn cam bearing, see ruclips.net/video/XMo9qgQ40QQ/видео.html for more on that. What is your hot idle oil pressure?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair , my oil pressure starts at around 38 and then drops below 20 at hot. When I set up my dshboard screen to show when the DoD kicks in (V4/V8) the Tahoe vibrates when switching between the two. Once the oil pressure drops to 20 it does take long to go further down. If I'm watching the screen and keep it out of DoD V4, it seems to stay above 20 and get me home.
@@johnsummers778 You might have worn out second cam bearing then. What weight oil are you running?
Hi, is it possible to order from you a modified vlom for 2007 1500 suburban?
Thanks
Just sold the last one I had available last week. I could sell one without a connector for cheaper. You will need the tune done prior to running it at all with it though. Maybe I'll get luck and the 2 I recently sold will send me cores. Then I can prepare more.
Great videos on AFM system! Do you have any suggestions on why the riveted VLOM does not have any bleed off orifices? Also does the riveted VLOM have the inner filter screens/gasket like the bolted style?
I have not cut one open yet put it appears that it has no screens. I believe the bleed off orifices are built in with the solenoid when DOD is not activated.
Good morning sir do you have a video how to disable that??
ruclips.net/video/uvDE-LCmbnU/видео.html ruclips.net/video/zfBxu8CPYoU/видео.html
Can you put a non DOD valley cover in it also?
Not without replacing the camshaft and lifters with a non DOD parts. Otherwise you would have to modify the non DOD plate.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks!
I’m so confused,, what is the easiest, cheapest way to stop the function of afm without full delete?
Just disable it in the Tune.
So the solenoid pack is not needed?
Nope but I don't remove it anymore
I want to thank you for doing these videos, I have watched several already and shared to get them out to friends of mine. What video should I watch to diagnose if it is the cam ,lifter or the vlom? I have a 2009 GMC Sierra no noise but a good miss to it and a 2008 Tahoe with a very loud tick/knock. Thanks and I will be ordering the tools from you.
ruclips.net/video/6vLcX_ccIFI/видео.html
Thanks for the reply. I checked the 09 sierra out and #4 is where my problem is. 1 rocker is very loose. "I think it is #4 exhaust" 4th rocker from the front passenger side. the truck has just a very, very slight tick if you rev it a little otherwise quite at idle but the rocker does not move at all running. collapsed lifter? Thanks again and if that's what you think it is as well I will be ordering the tool and vlom delete kit.
@@jackmac9569 so wait, cyl 1 and cyl 4 have a problem? how many miles have you driven it with the issue?
sorry, just cyl 4 has 1 loose rocker all the others cylinders are fine. 150 ponds of compression on all cylinders except cylinder 4. 30 on it.
@@jackmac9569 if you checked compression on cylinder 4 more than once I bet it would be inconsistent... If the rocker is loose than this is likely the most affordable way to try and fix it. Do the kit so you get the plug and cross your fingers that it releases. Be sure to check out the best practice video before you tackle it. ruclips.net/video/628gz05Vy9Q/видео.html
3:15 "I have a little screwdriver here, believe this is all I need to take this thing apart" ...... 6:02 "Ima go grab a hammer"
Love it you think🤔 about this shit in your sleep I know you do!
Great job keep it up! 👏👍👍
Yes I do and it drives the wife NUTS!! haha
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I could imagine.
LMAO!
What is the name of the sensor
The electrical sensor what’s the proper name
The oil pressure sender?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair so the clamped in black sensor that is called the electrical something something I know I sound dumb but I don’t believe it’s the cam shaft sensor I feel like it has a proper name
@@cheresecochran3497 there is only the oil sender and the VLOM solenoids on the pre 2014. The connector for the solenoids is a passthrough connector.
They loook different....like wider one on them
I stole a vlom off a 6.2 that has a flat plate with just the bolt holes a the oil pressure sensor with o rings to go around were the stand in the middle are
If you plan on using it with DOD lifters don't even try. It will collapse all 8 lifters.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair i would be deleting it
@@traxxasLOVR As long as you are doing a full delete camshaft and all.
Why not just turn the afm off with a chip or have the Ecm flashed
Because sometimes the VLOM fails and causes the issue.
I bought an 08 Z71 the other day blindly because it was a decent deal for the miles & shape. I got it cheap because it has this collapsed lifter bs. I am a mechanic that used to own a shop but since I've gotten older, I just work on my own stuff. After a bunch of research on this subject, I think the best thing is to just fix the issue & sell to move on to another brand. GM really screwed the pooch on this crap design. What a nightmare.
All vehicles have flaw's. With that said the GM issues are all in the valve train. If a guy wanted to keep one all you would have to do is a afm/dod delete. I've seen these things well over 400k mi on the original bottom end. The top end is the problem. The rest of the vehicle like suspension and trans is just as reliable as any other. I'm not sure why GM thought people bought a V8 to have a 4 cylinder anyway. Stupid idea, not like the system adds much fuel efficiency anyway.
I think if I wouldn't have cut the rivets off and took that whole piece off maybe it would have worked
I just cut the gaskets now instead of gutting it. I then install my VLOM plug.
What is the issue if the lifter jams open and bends the push rod ? Did the piston hit that valve?
It's likely sticky valve, it might have bent it if piston hit it.
How would the valve & piston contact if the valve timing never changed?
@@robertbush9355 if the valve stuck from carbon in the stem guide it could have stuck for just long enough open the third piston hit it and shut it. Then if it bent it it will leak and thus misfire
CrazedPerformanceRepair okay, thanks for the input