If it is AFM equiped and actually has a Collapsed/stuck AFM lifter. That is a direct injection engine though so it has a lot of extra things to consider beyond just the lifter. The Direct injection engines after 2014 are prone to other issues such as: -Bent pushrod from factory interference with hole in head and/or spring on AFM lifter, or internal lifter failure/blowout that caused it to bind/wedge. (This has the same symptom as a collapsed lifter in many cases) -Chewed up cam lobe and lifter roller. This is caused by the soft metal the newer cam is made of and I recommend a full AFM delete at this point. The symptom from this is a light ticking in most cases. -Collapsed AFM lifter. This happens on the direct injection engines usually because the VLOM is leaking pressure into the oil towers when it shouldn't. The VLOM mod I do it pretty much needed on these models. I have a video exclusive just for this VLOM unit ruclips.net/video/vwdINEsyYL4/видео.html -Broken timing chain tensioner. Not that common but worth a mention One last thing to note is on DFM. In 2019-2021 they started to implement a system called DFM. The DFM or Direct Fuel Management controls all 8 cylinders instead of only 4 like AFM does. This system to my knowledge wont allow my products to work with it. It has 8 separate solenoids bolted into the block instead of 4 solenoids in a VLOM assembly. It still functions the same but with twice the AFM lifters. It's still unclear as to the reliability of these but I do know they still bend pushrods occasionally. If anyone reads this within driving range of southern South Dakota with one needing service, I would love to crack it open and will give a discount to the first one I get a chance to work on.
07 Tahoe police fleet truck 187k #5 cyl. Flushed twice, didn't help.then used long Phillips. Popped up on 3rd tap. Super cleaned screens and channels in valley cover, reassemble, stuck again. Replaced all lifters on passenger side. I think I know what I did wrong. I left the rocker on and didn't let it expand all the way. Either way awesome trick. Put 20k on it since ,cheers
What you did wrong was not turning off the system. If you haven't turned it off yet, you should. These systems once failed tend to fail again within the first year or two after lifter replacement.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair oh damn I didn't ad that part . I did send my ecu off to a reputable speed shop and had the did flashed out. So it is full time 8
I cannot thank you enough for this video and the tool to perform the repair. I was quoted between $5-$8,000 to fix or replace my engine. These were options that I could not afford, so I went online to find options and happened upon your video. My mechanic was very skeptical that this would work, but the worst that would have happened is that I was back where I started. The work was much less complicated than I thought and the results are amazing! The truck starts and runs smoothly. The power delivery is better, and the transmission seems to shift better than before. THANK YOU THANK YOU! If anyone is on the fence, take the dive. What do you have to lose?
These comments make my day. Thank you for taking the time to stop by and leave this comment It means a lot. I really need to get back to posting more videos.
Got an ‘08 Silverado with a sticky lifter. Really stuck the other day so I had to pull the valve cover off and have someone crank the starter while tapping on the lifter side of the rocker arm. Popped pretty easily. Waiting on an HP Tuners unit so I can disable it totally.
Pretty amazing approach to repairing a collapsed lifter. I enjoy the part where you explain how or what caused the lifter collapse in the first place. Avoiding the trouble spots and a repair would be my first choice.
I have an 08 Burb, 5.3 O code flex. No. 4 cylinder lifter collapse. Watched your vids, bought your awesome tool, followed procedure to the letter, rap a tap tap and lifter popped up. I pushed the push rod back down on lifter and felt/ heard a click. Put rocker back on, snugged, pulled engine by hand through 2 turns, watched rocker rock. Broke all tabs off on vlom and blocked oil passage w your collar.Re-gasketed everything, torqued to spec, hit the key and viola.. However, I’ve run into an issue P304, misfire on that same cyc. Changed plug, coil, wire, injector, propane and sprayed everything can find No vac leaks. Did notice LTFT bank 2 is always neg, avg around ned 8 to 10, sometimes 12 and higher in city but neg 3.6 highway speed @ 2600 rpm. When I come to a stop idle is initially good and steady at 600 ish rpm but then within seconds slowly falls to 400/450 and shakes a little and I get Stabilitrak, cel flashing. My scanner says FP is 43lbs most all the time, changed pump, did the same, sometimes it goes to 58 but then falls back down, after shut down rises to over 60. Thoughts on that miss? Have not done comp or leak down yet. Sigh.. so close. But your tool worked great!
Bummer hopefully it's not a spun lifter because of a bad plastic guide. Pop the cover off and use the starter to crank it over while watching rocker. If it works at first then stops it may be spun. This is the worst case scenario for you. Something you can't anticipate or prevent while having AFM lifters. When it happens it wipes out the camshaft.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I’ll do that. Thnx for resp! This morn started, after warm up idle down, 600 rpm. Slight mis in P, shift to D, feel mis a little more, waiting for cel to flash w it’s brother stabilitrak…not happening but idle poor, hit a/c (to load engine) now you can feel mis…then she starts a shak’in good but at that exact moment live data showed FP go from 43 to 57 lbs and STFT 0.0 and LTFT go to -0.08. These are now normal values right? I have noticed in past when that mis gets bad, FP has gone from 43 to +55 lbs . Got P304 during that heavy mis.. put in P, killed a/c and smoothed to just poor idle. Odd that FP rise to normal causes mis to exaggerate.
@@ericmausolf8682 I think the fuel pressure is irrelevant. It's likely more related to open vs closed loop. The stft might sow close to 0 but I bet the ltft is way off being 1cyl worth of extra fuel is being added to other cylinders while using less air. You probably shouldn't be driving it like that though. There is a puddle of fuel sitting behind the intake valve that's not opening. If it leaks into that cylinder after shutdown at the bottom of compression stroke, you could be risking a hydrolock condition.
I just traded for a silverado and it has a tick not horrible but it still ticks I used tranmission fluid in the oil and it helped some but should I run 10w 30 oil or the 5w 30 oil the is recommended? Thanks
Great video. I have a 2008 Suburban with a misfire on cylinder 1, so I pulled the valve cover after testing spark plugs, wires, etc. The very first lifter is not moving like the rest but the rocker arm is not loose either. I tried turning the engine over, an the arm is still not lose. I assume the lifter is stuck, but I’m confused on why the rocker arm is not loose like all of your other videos. Any ideas?
Have an 09 gmc 5.3... starts up fine and smooth idles 35 psi oil pressure. Can drive it 30-40 miles and sounds like Mexican Roofers....No misfire....codes etc and oil pressure doesnt change!!!
I have a Chevy avalanche 2007 and I have the same problem And a brilliant brilliant Mecanic. He told me pour into the engine 1 quart of transmission oil and drive it for an hour and then change the oil and all the spark plugs. It should be fine. I did exactly what he says and magic happened. Everything became so smooth I couldn’t believe it. Even the oil pressure went up all the time it was low on the gauge.
I have a '15 silverado 5.3 . Shortly after Thanksgiving 2020 I blew a headgasket. While inside the motor figured I'd replace all the lifters as well. I've had the DOD turned off for almost the whole time I've had the truck, since 2018 with 27k on it and now she's almost at 100k. Two weeks ago I had a misfire in cylindar #6. Towed her home and started troubleshooting . Hoping it would be the coilpack because the packs were the only thing I didn't replace on the "headgasket rebuild "... It wasn't. Looks like a colapst brand new GM lifter ! The rocker doesn't move while engine is running and when it's off there's a ton of slop rocking back and forth on the rocker . Telling me it's a colapst lifter or a damaged cam. Oh and the rod looked fine as well . I guess my confusion comes from the fact that I don't have the DOD active . I went ahead and ordered your "premium tool kit " for the lifter. Havnt really decided if I want to use it or if it's even meant for a 2014-2018 GM gen 5 LT 5.3 engine. Im considering a complete delete, cam n all. Just not sure if I want to take that big of a project on right now. Any advice ?
My 2015 Silverado ended up being a bent pushrod...lifters look good...so if this happens to you simply take valve cover off and rocker arm..check for bent pushrod ...if bent try changing pushrod first and see if does the trick...don't go straight to this hack...could be a defective pushrod...but I didn't know so I tore it down...since it's apart I'm changing lifters on cylinder that had bent pushrod...good luck...hopefully you will check pushrod instead of taking it all apart...
I just bought the tool from his website and it worked just like he showed in the video, saved me from doing lifters and got my engine running back to normal or course I bought a “Range” disabler so the problem doesn’t happen again. This guy is my hero 👍🫡
Great video and very smart of you to come up with a tool for helping with this issue. I have a 2013 Suburban with 110k on it and no problems yet. A couple of years ago I bought a module that plugs into the OBD port and shuts off the AFM system. Would this take the place of the tuning that you mention? Also if I am not currently experiencing a problem, what might I do to help prevent it? I have always used full synthetic oil but I am wondering if shortening my changes from 5000 miles to 2500 will help prevent this from becoming a full blown problem. I am interested in your thoughts. Thx
Having the same problem on #6, I have already taken off the cylinder head once and found #8 lifter actually did not have the small hole in it! Engine had new cam and regular lifters installed by supposedly professional shop before I purchased it.(not too happy with them) Thought that was my issue and put it all back together and still misfire P0306. Would like to get your tool so I can try procedure before I have to take cylinder head back off for new #6 lifters. Thanks for the great video!
Cylinder number 8 is not a AFM cylinder. It can't fail the same way the AFM lifters fail. The AFM lifters failing comes down to oil pressure at the lifter during activation. If the oil pressure is below 26 PSI at the lifter when it activates the locks will bind. This causes internal damage on the AFM side of the lifter thus leading to the lifter locking up when it activates. That's where my lifter trick comes in. Doing it freeze up the lifter and turning off the system keeps it from happening again. You need to make sure that it applies to you and your situation though. There is more than one way the lifter can fail and that is only one of the ways. If you have a floppy loose rocker you most likely have the scenario I use the tool for.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks for all the info, I removed the cylinder head again and replaced both #6 lifters. Happy to report engine runs fine now. learned a lot from your videos, thanks again!
Hey I have a repair shop in East Central Minnesota. I have been wrenching on cars for almost 20 years now and i have learned to say the least a few very useful things from your videos. I recently purchased and used the "stuck lifter" tool and the vlom plug for 2012 silverado 5.3l the tool and plug worked as they should but my question for you is..... Where can I get the necessary "pcm tune" done at?
I live in Texas and my Silverado has the lifter tap also. But only in the cold winter months, and only until the engine warms up. No loss of power or check engine light either. I'm lost.
I am pretty sure that I got lifter freed up it came away from the cam with the tool but pushrod never jumped out of the hole like when you did it although it pushed back easily and after I installed the rocker arm and torqued it the valve now opens and closes thanks for the video now a have to fix the vlom and get ecm delete done should I wait on it or verify that it doesn't miss before sending it off
I would send it off anyway. Not like you ever want the system active again even if it didn't work. I would use starter relay with the VLOM bolted on to verify lifter stays good though. Just make sure to crank it long enough to watch rocker work a solid 6-7 times without fail.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair it has 165 psi compression but still kinda acts like it's in limp mode i sent ecm to the guy you recommended but lifter was definently stuck because it would not move prior to coming free now it has movement and compression still a little noise but was getting better
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair now it doesn't show any but it acts like computer has it in a Simi limp mode because transmission doesn't seem to be shifting normally I sent ecm to ls1swap to get delete but lifter went from being very noisy and no movement on #7 intake to moving and having 165 lbs. Compression a lot quieter on valvetrain with some noise but pushrod never shot out of the hole is it possible that it hasn't completely released? Thank you for answering y questions and helping me work thru this I really appreciated that
Have you ever tried putting a holes on hose clamp on the lifter once you take in the rocker arm off and putting back pressure into that lifter? Just wondering if that would be a next step without having to pull the valley cover and whatnot
It's technically incorrect to call it a collapsed lifter. It's technically a failed AFM portion of the lifter and has nothing to do with the normal hydraulic side of it. Unfortunately if I word and label things that way the video would never reach anyone. What happens is the AFM locking paws on the inside AFM portion of the lifter damage the shelf on the outside portion. Then when the lifter activates it's AFM the inside portion gets stuck to the outside portion because of the knurling effect that the damage caused.
@CrazedPerformanceRepair okay so figured out my exhaust valve isn't fully seating. No.compression. But when I back off the rocker arm bolt it seats fine with plenty compression. I even strarted the truck and it ran great. What should I do??
You prob have to pull the head. The valve might be sunk in the head or something. Check valve stem height and compare it to the others. If it's sitting higher then the rest it has sunken in or worn out.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair wasn't the valve. Took the head back off and replaced the other lifter in that cylinder and boom ran great. Idk what was going on because that lifter looked fine. The other one was visibly collapsed. But I guess both were bad.
I just found that issue on my 15 silverado, what would happen if I just release the lifter? Do I have to plug that vlom? And or will the issue return if I dont? I have no engine knock, only small vibration , the check engine, and the stabilitrak light. I found the collapsed lifter on 7..my question remains...do I have to plug that VLOM oil thingie?? And if I don't will the issue reoccur??? Thank you for your great videos...excellent help my brutha
I have a weird one for you. What are your thoughts on the following?...I have a 2007 Suburban with the iron block 5.3L. 328K miles. Never had any issues with the engine other than oil leaks and oil consumption. I did the updated valve cover, AFM shield and cylinder soak at 202K miles. This helped considerably with oil consumption but lately, I've been seeing oil consumption with blue smoke at startup. I bought valve stem seals a while back and decided to install them today. Went through the proper procedures to install the seals and torque the rocker bolts. Turned the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything looked good. Started the vehicle and it was apparent immediately that there was a misfire. Ended up being cylinder #7. Pulled and reseated the plug wire and the misfire was gone and the engine ran perfectly. Revved to about 3K RPM and instantly got a lifter tick on the LH side. Pulled the valve cover and #7 exhaust has about 1/8 of movement when the valve is supposed to be fully closed. It never went into V4 move as it was only idling in my driveway. I did a quick drive around the neighborhood to see if the switch to V4 mode would fix the issue but it did not. However, when in V4 mode, the tick completely goes away so the lifter is still collapsing in V4 mode but doesn't appear to be fully opening. I pulled the valve cover and removed the #1 and #7 exhaust rockers and the #7 push rod sits about 1/4" lower than #1. I checked the push rod and it's perfectly straight. It still runs great and has no misfires. I'm at a loss as to how the valve stem seal replacement process could have caused this. Certainly it can't be a coincidence.
Will that work on a 4.3 engine as well?? 2020 chevy express. I have like a valve noise around cyl 6 uppon acceleration and misfire that doesn't do the check light
Hello there. I hava a Code P0302 on a 207 Tahoe (since is a piston that doesn´t have a AFM conected lifter) I wonder if I have to do this procedure? Thanks.
I have a 2013, 5.3 Silverado with a misfire on number four only at idle. I checked the compression and It is low on four. It was 127 dry and about fourty pounds higher wet. No ticking and all lifters are moving fine, I pulled the valve cover to confirm. About a year ago I had an episode with the same cylinder misfiring with the valve noise. After running for a while with the Range disabler it stopped naking the lifter noise, so I had it tuned and all seemed fine until now. Have you seen this before??
Love your videos, they gave me the confidence to do plenty things on my truck so far. I got a 07 Escalade with 144k on it. It was badly neglected by the previous owner. It's got the tick and low oil pressure. So far I have changed the oil to Mobil 1 5w-30, changed the oil pressure sensor and filter, new plugs and wires, deleted the air ride and active suspension, and changed the motor mounts. My next project is to drop the pan and change the O-ring and finally order your tool and free the lifter if I have one stuck. I have Torque pro, and it did not detect a misfire. My question is, do I have AFM/DOD to delete and what else do you suggest if I eventually want to swap the cam to a stage 2 and tune?
Awesome and thank you for the quick shipping on the tool and "The Constitution" that was an awesome added surprise! Thank you for all your videos!@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
I need help man, 07 suburban 5.3, misfire at idle only and no noise or ticking, checked with a scan tool and misfire counting on cylinder 2 and 5 I already changed plugs coil and wires still persisting.
Did this particular vehicle tick all the time or just when it was cold ? I also have a po300 random misfire code but only have a lifter tick on a cold start and not all the time! Thank you for your videos on the 5.3.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you for the reply. do you have a option where I could pay you to listen to a short video and get your logical opinion ?
I wish you would of shown how to actually position the tool down the hole. Which way should the angle face?! I appreciate the tips but man I’m scratching my head here and don’t want to go tapping anything without an answer to how to properly position this tool in my 06 envoy denalu
Hi, Have a question: after this procedure and once the lifter is realased, what are the chace that it stock again if I use one ODM AFM disabler ? Thanks a lot for what you do for the GM community
Where r u located can u fix my tic?? I have a 2011 cad DTS that tic at top of engine....no check engine light or nothing...most of the time it will tic after four min of engine running.....
I have a 2010 Yukon XL with P0308 misfiring. I understand its not one of the afm cylinders but I do have that ticking noise. I will have to pull the head to replace that lifter but can that bad lifter be causing low oil pressure?
I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 with 5.3 and cylinder 3 misfire only at idle. New plugs, wires, injectors, intake gaskets and cleaned intake valves. Compression test showed good compression on all cylinders even #3. Swapped coil packs but misfire remained at #3. Getting a new pack tomorrow just in case and next step is to take valve cover off and see. Any thoughts? Could this technique work for this year engine?
I'm in process of moving my shop to SE corner of South Dakota. So if you are with in driving distance of that area you will be able to bring the vehicle to me for service.
seen a guy put a 5.7 hemi back together which also suffers the same lifter failures. it ticked really bad but was quiet after a drive. but he said it would and it did.
I've heard of those having similar issues on my RUclips but have yet to even see one in my shop. It's like folks know better then to own them out in the boonies or something lol.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair it's a problem but I don't think it's as big of a problem as the chevy. maybe more people own a chevy. my ram has 124k miles and never had and issue. they're also known for broken exhaust manifold bolts. another no problem for me.
@@blue03r6 well most the older Chevys with collapsed lifters are over 180k miles that I see and work on. The Newer ones that fail are have a different issue but still valve train related and failing much earlier.
oh I thought that they had far less miles than that. seen videos at the dealers replacing the lifters under warranty. at any rate, I blame the oils. or actually put the blame on the manufacturers recommendations to reduce additives like zinc because it damages the emissions components. to me that's putting a bandaid fix on shitty designed emissions components. i'd rather run oils with higher zinc etc and replace converters which is a hell of a lot easier and less expensive.
@@blue03r6 it happens because of lack of oil pressure during activation. This causes the lifter to bind internally and create a knurling effect. It's not from contaminated oil necessarily. More a wear and tear issue over time dropping pressure. The early ones can be from contamination. Lack of oil filter changes causing pressure to drop when it plugs, could also be that screen underneath the oil pressure sensor that plugs up causing it to drop pressure at the lifter.
You don't need that really unless you mess it up real bad take some tranny fluid spray in the intake write down the carburetor try not to get it in the carburetor try to spray it down right into the intake when it's running now come right back and quiet right down does this does this 90% if they don't come back up you messed your lifters up real bad
No pressure from plugged screen under oil sensor. Tick from collapsed lifter caused from low oil pressure during lifter activation. Oil consumption caused from PCV portion of driver side valve cover. Modify it like I do in one of my videos and you should be good. As for the tick, do the lift release trick, the VLOM mod, and the tune to shut off the AFM and you should be good.
I have a 2015 gmc 5.3. Bought truck as a project cuz it was diagnosed from previous owner from a couple mechanics shops as a stuck lifter. The truck has no engine code but there is a slight miss on cinder 7 noticed after looking at live data with .y friends scan tool. It sounds almost like an exhaust leak or cylinder pressure being pushed out somewhere. My other friend was wondering if it could be pushing back out the intake because of a stuck lifter causi g that noise but there is no tick or clack or knock. Can you have a stuck or collapsed or partially collapsed lifter with no knock or tick but just the air noise?
You might have a manifold leak and a lifter failure. Check to see all manifold bolts are in place. Then check compression. You could have a spun or stuck lifter but see my long video for diagnosis.
I have a 2010 suburban 5.3 had a collapsed lifter. Replaced all of them and the valley Pan. Started it up and it bent a lifter.the lifter not rod. So I put new lifters in and same cylinder collapsed again. I am lost any help or advice would be great
You have to click the i/information button on the top right like I say in the video. When you do 3 videos show up. the first one ruclips.net/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/видео.html is the full explanation.
so for the direct injected 6.2 2015s with a stuck lifter, do you think this works? ive seen several videos claiming it does, but not sure how to verify. Tearing it down including removing lifters and non-replaceable fuel connectors is a major pain
Mine only throws p0300 but my scanner shows massive amounts of misfires on cyl #3 and occasional on #2, i find it odd that it only throws the random code. Hoping theres something in this video to get mine back going haha
Hey man! I bought your lifter release tool and it came today however when I removed the rocker arm the rod came right out with my hand is this a bigger problem?
It happens at all miles. It his most common around 180k though. The failure happens not because of a bad lifter though, it's actually caused by low oil pressure during AFM activation.
My 5.3 sounds exactly like this. Sounded just like it was on top of cylinder 1. I replaced all the lifters and rods and the noise persists. Any thoughts? Doesn't sound like rod knock. I am going to try to rev it tomorrow maybe it just needs that
I have a bent pushrod in my 6.2L. 65k miles. would your process and tool work for me? I had to drive with the bent pushrod and tapping for about 200 miles.
If it's post 2014 I offer a replacement puchrod to solve that issue. You need to make make sure lifter is still in tact though. Message me at crazedperformancerepair.com for more details.
With a magnet, I was able to pull out the top half of the #7 intake DoD lifter (spring and cap cup). So it separated. Seems the bent pushrod beat up the lifter top I pulled the head and already have a new DOD lifter in there. No delete kit, just going to sell it. I ordered your kit, but not going to need it now. Can I cancel and substitute a paypal gift? It was going to Madison, Alabama. Or, should I still shove that plug into the oil pressure screen area for added security?!
Try to just to spray some transmission fluid down in the air intake when it's running if it's a collapsed lifter it will stop making a noise almost immediately if it doesn't then then the lifter is messed up real bad you had to replace
This doesn't apply to those. You might have a leaking intake gasket and exhaust manifold gasket on that year actually. Best test for those is to use 3m brake clean around intake while cold to see if it smooths out from vacuum leak. Also for tick look for broken exhaust manifold bolts that might be causing exhaust leak.
Wow, I believe this is what's going on with my 2015, pretty good tick, runs super smooth no issues driving, idles and runs prefect. But oddly no check engine light for me.
@@jessicamizzell2854 naw it goes away when I first change the oil then comes back in a day or 2. When I changed my oil about a month ago I put a quart of marvel mystery oil in it and it's been running strong oil pressure is strong not burning or loosing oil 🤷🏾♂️. From all my research I have done it's just a flaw they have people been putting 500 to a million on that ole tick lol I just keep close eye on it and listen. I'm go run the ole gal till she can't no more
@@jessicamizzell2854 the good thing about the 5.3 or 4.8 whichever u may have is these motors are everywhere and fairly cheap for insurance purposes if u wanted u can buy another cheap. and build it the way you want so if the one blows up u will have a stand by to throw rite in there
If I freed up the lifter and just put everything back together how long would it run before it's lifted collapsing again if it would ever collapse again? if I was not to do no mods?
Yes sort of, but it's not worth it. The 60° v6s that have AFM can I have the lifters replaced without pulling the head so it's not worth doing. Just replace the lifter and shut the system off or solve the wax oil pressure drain activation issue.
I picked up an LS engine with that same problem ( tick but no collapsed lifter). The tick was from metal that wore away on the lifter roller and chewed up the cam lobe.
G-day mate . I have a 6lt in my Ute . Did your release trick worked on second tap . ( thank you) but still a bit of a noise no where as bad. I looked at the cam lobe and looked fine by eye . What could it be ?
2012 escalade 100k mile 6.2 dod vvt engine knocks/ticks on start up. 99% gone after driving for 5 minutes. Stethoscope picks up the noise on driver side block just under the head. All rockers moving and 200 psi compression on driver side cylinders. Exhaust manifold bolts tight. Any ideas sir?
@crazedperformance I have a cylinder 5 misfire Compression is at 50 for that cylinder. 08 avalanche 5.3 only 85k miles. I never hear cylinder 5 brought up in your videos. My thoughts are it’s a lifter issue? What are your thoughts
Dear sir(s), I purchased a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado with the 5.3 engine and have been experiencing problems with oil consumption, reduced power, AFM valve/lifter sticking on cylinder #1. I believe I qualify for remedy under your Class Action. Bradley K. Zierke v. General Motors LLC, et al., Case No. 0:16-cv-04170, in the U.S. District Court for the District of Minnesota. Can you assist me in obtaining any relief in this matter?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair well I opened her up today and it wasn’t even a dod lifter that failed! It was a regular lifter and it wiped out the cam with it what a bummer. Trying to find a replacement reman engine but everyone’s out of stock. The lifter bore is severely scored
I have a 2008 suburban with this crap afm with an 5.3. I have issues in just one cylinder. I pulled out spark plug and it has oil in it, does that mean I have a lifter issue or a piston ring? I have 170k miles on the engine
@CrazedPerformanceRepair I have a 09 Tahoe 5.3 it had a collapsed lifter and a low oil pressure light on. I already changed the oil pressure sensor and the little screen under it. I Also changed all 4 lifters on passenger side, oil pump and the oil pick up tube and O-ring. But after driving it for a while the oil pressure goes back down and light comes back on. If I turn the Tahoe off it resets but after a few minutes it does it again. Do you have any suggestions as to what it can be?
Hey bud great video. I have a question though. Will it always through some type of code? I have a 13 Yukon with 135,000 miles and I’ve noticed a slightly louder than normal ticking on the passenger side but no codes. Seems to run fine but I rarely drive it as it’s my wife’s.
Does this apply to a 2019 yukon xl 5.3.
If it is AFM equiped and actually has a Collapsed/stuck AFM lifter. That is a direct injection engine though so it has a lot of extra things to consider beyond just the lifter. The Direct injection engines after 2014 are prone to other issues such as:
-Bent pushrod from factory interference with hole in head and/or spring on AFM lifter, or internal lifter failure/blowout that caused it to bind/wedge. (This has the same symptom as a collapsed lifter in many cases)
-Chewed up cam lobe and lifter roller. This is caused by the soft metal the newer cam is made of and I recommend a full AFM delete at this point. The symptom from this is a light ticking in most cases.
-Collapsed AFM lifter. This happens on the direct injection engines usually because the VLOM is leaking pressure into the oil towers when it shouldn't. The VLOM mod I do it pretty much needed on these models. I have a video exclusive just for this VLOM unit ruclips.net/video/vwdINEsyYL4/видео.html
-Broken timing chain tensioner. Not that common but worth a mention
One last thing to note is on DFM. In 2019-2021 they started to implement a system called DFM. The DFM or Direct Fuel Management controls all 8 cylinders instead of only 4 like AFM does. This system to my knowledge wont allow my products to work with it. It has 8 separate solenoids bolted into the block instead of 4 solenoids in a VLOM assembly. It still functions the same but with twice the AFM lifters. It's still unclear as to the reliability of these but I do know they still bend pushrods occasionally. If anyone reads this within driving range of southern South Dakota with one needing service, I would love to crack it open and will give a discount to the first one I get a chance to work on.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepairwhy dose it need a tune?
@Brandon_obs_ls maybe out of factory. The factory settings aren't adequate for the hardware implemented. Who knows.
Yea they're blowing up left and right
Collapsed #4 intake last week. This worked flawlessly. Bought the tool, got the tune done, drove 500 miles today with zero issues!
#4 me too a week ago, did you have a code for #4 ?
Just did this on my 6.2l, worked like a charm!
My 2013 reported the random misfire code. But it was cylinder #7 that had collapsed lifter. Your tool worked as advertised!
So mine has the tick but no check engine light at all runs perfectly?
@@19shawnshawn89 same
@@jgruen9854 mine ended up being the dod faling and my lifter made my cam dinner
Ouch😢@@19shawnshawn89
07 Tahoe police fleet truck 187k #5 cyl. Flushed twice, didn't help.then used long Phillips. Popped up on 3rd tap. Super cleaned screens and channels in valley cover, reassemble, stuck again. Replaced all lifters on passenger side. I think I know what I did wrong. I left the rocker on and didn't let it expand all the way. Either way awesome trick. Put 20k on it since ,cheers
What you did wrong was not turning off the system. If you haven't turned it off yet, you should. These systems once failed tend to fail again within the first year or two after lifter replacement.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair oh damn I didn't ad that part . I did send my ecu off to a reputable speed shop and had the did flashed out. So it is full time 8
Okay, if you did have it done then you must be right and it is just because you didn't pull the rocker off.
I cannot thank you enough for this video and the tool to perform the repair. I was quoted between $5-$8,000 to fix or replace my engine. These were options that I could not afford, so I went online to find options and happened upon your video. My mechanic was very skeptical that this would work, but the worst that would have happened is that I was back where I started. The work was much less complicated than I thought and the results are amazing! The truck starts and runs smoothly. The power delivery is better, and the transmission seems to shift better than before. THANK YOU THANK YOU! If anyone is on the fence, take the dive. What do you have to lose?
These comments make my day. Thank you for taking the time to stop by and leave this comment It means a lot. I really need to get back to posting more videos.
Exactly what mine is doing now, no CEL or misfires. It still runs decently but a bit sluggish.
Got an ‘08 Silverado with a sticky lifter. Really stuck the other day so I had to pull the valve cover off and have someone crank the starter while tapping on the lifter side of the rocker arm. Popped pretty easily. Waiting on an HP Tuners unit so I can disable it totally.
Pretty amazing approach to repairing a collapsed lifter. I enjoy the part where you explain how or what caused the lifter collapse in the first place. Avoiding the trouble spots and a repair would be my first choice.
keep clean oil in your car & it will not happen
It this hole procedure does not last
@@cjjorge6636bs
I have an 08 Burb, 5.3 O code flex. No. 4 cylinder lifter collapse. Watched your vids, bought your awesome tool, followed procedure to the letter, rap a tap tap and lifter popped up. I pushed the push rod back down on lifter and felt/ heard a click. Put rocker back on, snugged, pulled engine by hand through 2 turns, watched rocker rock. Broke all tabs off on vlom and blocked oil passage w your collar.Re-gasketed everything, torqued to spec, hit the key and viola.. However, I’ve run into an issue P304, misfire on that same cyc. Changed plug, coil, wire, injector, propane and sprayed everything can find No vac leaks. Did notice LTFT bank 2 is always neg, avg around ned 8 to 10, sometimes 12 and higher in city but neg 3.6 highway speed @ 2600 rpm. When I come to a stop idle is initially good and steady at 600 ish rpm but then within seconds slowly falls to 400/450 and shakes a little and I get Stabilitrak, cel flashing. My scanner says FP is 43lbs most all the time, changed pump, did the same, sometimes it goes to 58 but then falls back down, after shut down rises to over 60. Thoughts on that miss? Have not done comp or leak down yet. Sigh.. so close. But your tool worked great!
Bummer hopefully it's not a spun lifter because of a bad plastic guide. Pop the cover off and use the starter to crank it over while watching rocker. If it works at first then stops it may be spun. This is the worst case scenario for you. Something you can't anticipate or prevent while having AFM lifters. When it happens it wipes out the camshaft.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I’ll do that. Thnx for resp! This morn started, after warm up idle down, 600 rpm. Slight mis in P, shift to D, feel mis a little more, waiting for cel to flash w it’s brother stabilitrak…not happening but idle poor, hit a/c (to load engine) now you can feel mis…then she starts a shak’in good but at that exact moment live data showed FP go from 43 to 57 lbs and STFT 0.0 and LTFT go to -0.08. These are now normal values right? I have noticed in past when that mis gets bad, FP has gone from 43 to +55 lbs . Got P304 during that heavy mis.. put in P, killed a/c and smoothed to just poor idle. Odd that FP rise to normal causes mis to exaggerate.
@@ericmausolf8682 I think the fuel pressure is irrelevant. It's likely more related to open vs closed loop. The stft might sow close to 0 but I bet the ltft is way off being 1cyl worth of extra fuel is being added to other cylinders while using less air. You probably shouldn't be driving it like that though. There is a puddle of fuel sitting behind the intake valve that's not opening. If it leaks into that cylinder after shutdown at the bottom of compression stroke, you could be risking a hydrolock condition.
Great video! And I subscribed to your channel. Thank you for helping so many people.
what prevents it from collapsing again? good video
I purchased that release tool, and it worked!! Thanks!
I just traded for a silverado and it has a tick not horrible but it still ticks I used tranmission fluid in the oil and it helped some but should I run 10w 30 oil or the 5w 30 oil the is recommended? Thanks
Great video. I have a 2008 Suburban with a misfire on cylinder 1, so I pulled the valve cover after testing spark plugs, wires, etc. The very first lifter is not moving like the rest but the rocker arm is not loose either. I tried turning the engine over, an the arm is still not lose. I assume the lifter is stuck, but I’m confused on why the rocker arm is not loose like all of your other videos. Any ideas?
thank you it worked again !!! two diffferent 6.2L engines both #4 cylinder
Have an 09 gmc 5.3... starts up fine and smooth idles 35 psi oil pressure. Can drive it 30-40 miles and sounds like Mexican Roofers....No misfire....codes etc and oil pressure doesnt change!!!
I just ordered this tool. I wanna give it a try, I have a stuck lifter on cylinder 6 of 08 Yukon Denali
name
I have a Chevy avalanche 2007 and I have the same problem And a brilliant brilliant Mecanic. He told me pour into the engine 1 quart of transmission oil and drive it for an hour and then change the oil and all the spark plugs. It should be fine. I did exactly what he says and magic happened. Everything became so smooth I couldn’t believe it. Even the oil pressure went up all the time it was low on the gauge.
You got lucky then and the lifter is damaged now. Better at least shut off the AFM.
I have a '15 silverado 5.3 . Shortly after Thanksgiving 2020 I blew a headgasket. While inside the motor figured I'd replace all the lifters as well. I've had the DOD turned off for almost the whole time I've had the truck, since 2018 with 27k on it and now she's almost at 100k. Two weeks ago I had a misfire in cylindar #6. Towed her home and started troubleshooting . Hoping it would be the coilpack because the packs were the only thing I didn't replace on the "headgasket rebuild "... It wasn't. Looks like a colapst brand new GM lifter ! The rocker doesn't move while engine is running and when it's off there's a ton of slop rocking back and forth on the rocker . Telling me it's a colapst lifter or a damaged cam. Oh and the rod looked fine as well . I guess my confusion comes from the fact that I don't have the DOD active . I went ahead and ordered your "premium tool kit " for the lifter. Havnt really decided if I want to use it or if it's even meant for a 2014-2018 GM gen 5 LT 5.3 engine. Im considering a complete delete, cam n all. Just not sure if I want to take that big of a project on right now. Any advice ?
Yo Brother I hope you have figured out out your issue!
Fixed my tahoe using just the HP Tuner, no more lifter issues.
My 2015 Silverado ended up being a bent pushrod...lifters look good...so if this happens to you simply take valve cover off and rocker arm..check for bent pushrod ...if bent try changing pushrod first and see if does the trick...don't go straight to this hack...could be a defective pushrod...but I didn't know so I tore it down...since it's apart I'm changing lifters on cylinder that had bent pushrod...good luck...hopefully you will check pushrod instead of taking it all apart...
wish I read this comment before tearing into mine.
I never thought of this going through possible collapsed lifter now
I just bought the tool from his website and it worked just like he showed in the video, saved me from doing lifters and got my engine running back to normal or course I bought a “Range” disabler so the problem doesn’t happen again. This guy is my hero 👍🫡
Great video and very smart of you to come up with a tool for helping with this issue. I have a 2013 Suburban with 110k on it and no problems yet. A couple of years ago I bought a module that plugs into the OBD port and shuts off the AFM system. Would this take the place of the tuning that you mention? Also if I am not currently experiencing a problem, what might I do to help prevent it? I have always used full synthetic oil but I am wondering if shortening my changes from 5000 miles to 2500 will help prevent this from becoming a full blown problem.
I am interested in your thoughts. Thx
Having the same problem on #6, I have already taken off the cylinder head once and found #8 lifter actually did not have the small hole in it! Engine had new cam and regular lifters installed by supposedly professional shop before I purchased it.(not too happy with them) Thought that was my issue and put it all back together and still misfire P0306. Would like to get your tool so I can try procedure before I have to take cylinder head back off for new #6 lifters. Thanks for the great video!
Cylinder number 8 is not a AFM cylinder. It can't fail the same way the AFM lifters fail. The AFM lifters failing comes down to oil pressure at the lifter during activation. If the oil pressure is below 26 PSI at the lifter when it activates the locks will bind. This causes internal damage on the AFM side of the lifter thus leading to the lifter locking up when it activates. That's where my lifter trick comes in. Doing it freeze up the lifter and turning off the system keeps it from happening again. You need to make sure that it applies to you and your situation though. There is more than one way the lifter can fail and that is only one of the ways. If you have a floppy loose rocker you most likely have the scenario I use the tool for.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks for all the info, I removed the cylinder head again and replaced both #6 lifters. Happy to report engine runs fine now. learned a lot from your videos, thanks again!
I have a 2017 silverado went on a long road trip will the release tool work ? Much differences in the new generation?
Hey I have a repair shop in East Central Minnesota. I have been wrenching on cars for almost 20 years now and i have learned to say the least a few very useful things from your videos. I recently purchased and used the "stuck lifter" tool and the vlom plug for 2012 silverado 5.3l the tool and plug worked as they should but my question for you is..... Where can I get the necessary "pcm tune" done at?
I live in Texas and my Silverado has the lifter tap also. But only in the cold winter months, and only until the engine warms up. No loss of power or check engine light either. I'm lost.
I would like to have the information for the tool to release my stuck lifter on my 2007 5.3 Tahoe.
I am pretty sure that I got lifter freed up it came away from the cam with the tool but pushrod never jumped out of the hole like when you did it although it pushed back easily and after I installed the rocker arm and torqued it the valve now opens and closes thanks for the video now a have to fix the vlom and get ecm delete done should I wait on it or verify that it doesn't miss before sending it off
I would send it off anyway. Not like you ever want the system active again even if it didn't work. I would use starter relay with the VLOM bolted on to verify lifter stays good though. Just make sure to crank it long enough to watch rocker work a solid 6-7 times without fail.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair it has 165 psi compression but still kinda acts like it's in limp mode i sent ecm to the guy you recommended but lifter was definently stuck because it would not move prior to coming free now it has movement and compression still a little noise but was getting better
@@1967novss do you have any codes?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair now it doesn't show any but it acts like computer has it in a Simi limp mode because transmission doesn't seem to be shifting normally I sent ecm to ls1swap to get delete but lifter went from being very noisy and no movement on #7 intake to moving and having 165 lbs. Compression a lot quieter on valvetrain with some noise but pushrod never shot out of the hole is it possible that it hasn't completely released? Thank you for answering y questions and helping me work thru this I really appreciated that
@@1967novss have you actually checked for codes or just basing it off of the engine light? Can you access live misfire data?
Have you ever tried putting a holes on hose clamp on the lifter once you take in the rocker arm off and putting back pressure into that lifter? Just wondering if that would be a next step without having to pull the valley cover and whatnot
It's technically incorrect to call it a collapsed lifter. It's technically a failed AFM portion of the lifter and has nothing to do with the normal hydraulic side of it. Unfortunately if I word and label things that way the video would never reach anyone. What happens is the AFM locking paws on the inside AFM portion of the lifter damage the shelf on the outside portion. Then when the lifter activates it's AFM the inside portion gets stuck to the outside portion because of the knurling effect that the damage caused.
When mine starts missing the service stabitrak and traction control off comes on... it doesn't sound bad as your vehicle
@CrazedPerformanceRepair okay so figured out my exhaust valve isn't fully seating. No.compression. But when I back off the rocker arm bolt it seats fine with plenty compression. I even strarted the truck and it ran great. What should I do??
You prob have to pull the head. The valve might be sunk in the head or something. Check valve stem height and compare it to the others. If it's sitting higher then the rest it has sunken in or worn out.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair wasn't the valve. Took the head back off and replaced the other lifter in that cylinder and boom ran great. Idk what was going on because that lifter looked fine. The other one was visibly collapsed. But I guess both were bad.
@@TheTechGuider interesting, I've heard of only a couple do that. It happens but isn't very common.
Is there a backyard way to disable the dod? Like unplugging the vlom? Dont care anout check eng light
Why not just use LT1swap.com? It's only $50 and some shipping.
How did you just take off cover to get to rockers with out taking everything els apart?????
Have you heard of a P219A? Bank 1 driver side Air Fuel ratio Imbalance. No misfire or any DTC’s besides this one. Possibly 1 or 7
I just found that issue on my 15 silverado, what would happen if I just release the lifter? Do I have to plug that vlom? And or will the issue return if I dont? I have no engine knock, only small vibration , the check engine, and the stabilitrak light. I found the collapsed lifter on 7..my question remains...do I have to plug that VLOM oil thingie?? And if I don't will the issue reoccur??? Thank you for your great videos...excellent help my brutha
Do the VLOM mod and the PCM reprogram. Otherwise from what I've read, there is a high likelihood of reoccurrence.
I have a weird one for you. What are your thoughts on the following?...I have a 2007 Suburban with the iron block 5.3L. 328K miles. Never had any issues with the engine other than oil leaks and oil consumption. I did the updated valve cover, AFM shield and cylinder soak at 202K miles. This helped considerably with oil consumption but lately, I've been seeing oil consumption with blue smoke at startup. I bought valve stem seals a while back and decided to install them today. Went through the proper procedures to install the seals and torque the rocker bolts. Turned the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything looked good. Started the vehicle and it was apparent immediately that there was a misfire. Ended up being cylinder #7. Pulled and reseated the plug wire and the misfire was gone and the engine ran perfectly. Revved to about 3K RPM and instantly got a lifter tick on the LH side. Pulled the valve cover and #7 exhaust has about 1/8 of movement when the valve is supposed to be fully closed. It never went into V4 move as it was only idling in my driveway. I did a quick drive around the neighborhood to see if the switch to V4 mode would fix the issue but it did not. However, when in V4 mode, the tick completely goes away so the lifter is still collapsing in V4 mode but doesn't appear to be fully opening. I pulled the valve cover and removed the #1 and #7 exhaust rockers and the #7 push rod sits about 1/4" lower than #1. I checked the push rod and it's perfectly straight. It still runs great and has no misfires. I'm at a loss as to how the valve stem seal replacement process could have caused this. Certainly it can't be a coincidence.
Lifters colapsado? En mal estado? La solución fue limpiarlo o ponerlo nuevo?
would cylinder #1 show a wet spark plug as an indicator of a partial or sticking valve?
Wet with oil or fuel. Might be best to PM me on my actual website btw
Will that work on a 4.3 engine as well?? 2020 chevy express. I have like a valve noise around cyl 6 uppon acceleration and misfire that doesn't do the check light
so if it is misfiring will this still work i think al dods have some degree of colapse because i can't tell any difference when removing coil plug
Hello there. I hava a Code P0302 on a 207 Tahoe (since is a piston that doesn´t have a AFM conected lifter) I wonder if I have to do this procedure? Thanks.
This procedure won't help on the non AFM cylinders. Check the basics first.
I have a 2013, 5.3 Silverado with a misfire on number four only at idle. I checked the compression and It is low on four. It was 127 dry and about fourty pounds higher wet. No ticking and all lifters are moving fine, I pulled the valve cover to confirm.
About a year ago I had an episode with the same cylinder misfiring with the valve noise. After running for a while with the Range disabler it stopped naking the lifter noise, so I had it tuned and all seemed fine until now. Have you seen this before??
Mine is exactly like this only intermittent. It will come and go. Sea Foam an option?
Love your videos, they gave me the confidence to do plenty things on my truck so far. I got a 07 Escalade with 144k on it. It was badly neglected by the previous owner. It's got the tick and low oil pressure. So far I have changed the oil to Mobil 1 5w-30, changed the oil pressure sensor and filter, new plugs and wires, deleted the air ride and active suspension, and changed the motor mounts. My next project is to drop the pan and change the O-ring and finally order your tool and free the lifter if I have one stuck. I have Torque pro, and it did not detect a misfire. My question is, do I have AFM/DOD to delete and what else do you suggest if I eventually want to swap the cam to a stage 2 and tune?
My push rod popped out 3rd hit. Did the VLOM modification and putting back together. How long will it last?
Does it works with a hemi 5.7
I'd also run rislone every oil change to help keep the engine clean
Do you have a link for the little "air hammer"
Is it not in description?
I did not see it, I see links to coffee.@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
@@luckyreed1152 My bad you are correct, I added it now. But here is a link amzn.to/49mktFR
Awesome and thank you for the quick shipping on the tool and "The Constitution" that was an awesome added surprise! Thank you for all your videos!@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
Will this work for the hemi tick????
I need help man, 07 suburban 5.3, misfire at idle only and no noise or ticking, checked with a scan tool and misfire counting on cylinder 2 and 5 I already changed plugs coil and wires still persisting.
I used a pair of Lock, tight pliers and a torch, and it came right out
Did this particular vehicle tick all the time or just when it was cold ? I also have a po300 random misfire code but only have a lifter tick on a cold start and not all the time! Thank you for your videos on the 5.3.
You might want to see my leaking exhaust manifold video. This vehicle ticked all the time.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you for the reply. do you have a option where I could pay you to listen to a short video and get your logical opinion ?
I wish you would of shown how to actually position the tool down the hole. Which way should the angle face?! I appreciate the tips but man I’m scratching my head here and don’t want to go tapping anything without an answer to how to properly position this tool in my 06 envoy denalu
what is that air tool you are using and where can i get it or will a regular air hammer work
It’s called a needle scaler ( with the scales off )
Hi, Have a question: after this procedure and once the lifter is realased, what are the chace that it stock again if I use one ODM AFM disabler ? Thanks a lot for what you do for the GM community
Is there a certain position the piston or lifter or cam needs to be at when attempting the release trick? If so what would it be?
And how can you tell when ur at the correct position?
I didn't have to when I did one years ago, it's been good for 60k miles!
I need your help!!!!!! I need 1 one the tools and I need some tech advice, I'm having this issue but no loud tapping.
Visit my website www.crazedperformancerepair.com and send me a message there.
What keeps the old lifter from sticking again?
Where r u located can u fix my tic?? I have a 2011 cad DTS that tic at top of engine....no check engine light or nothing...most of the time it will tic after four min of engine running.....
I'm located in South Dakota by Nebraska boarder.
Wow, I’ve never seen that done before. 😳=⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I have a 2010 Yukon XL with P0308 misfiring. I understand its not one of the afm cylinders but I do have that ticking noise. I will have to pull the head to replace that lifter but can that bad lifter be causing low oil pressure?
Will lose vlom bolts cause a misfire? Ive been chasing one all summer long
Not likely, is AFM disabled?
I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 with 5.3 and cylinder 3 misfire only at idle. New plugs, wires, injectors, intake gaskets and cleaned intake valves. Compression test showed good compression on all cylinders even #3. Swapped coil packs but misfire remained at #3. Getting a new pack tomorrow just in case and next step is to take valve cover off and see. Any thoughts? Could this technique work for this year engine?
Awesome work nice video, I have a question I have a Mercedes that I believe have the same problem do you have a shop? My I can bring my car to fix it?
I'm in process of moving my shop to SE corner of South Dakota. So if you are with in driving distance of that area you will be able to bring the vehicle to me for service.
seen a guy put a 5.7 hemi back together which also suffers the same lifter failures. it ticked really bad but was quiet after a drive. but he said it would and it did.
I've heard of those having similar issues on my RUclips but have yet to even see one in my shop. It's like folks know better then to own them out in the boonies or something lol.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair it's a problem but I don't think it's as big of a problem as the chevy. maybe more people own a chevy. my ram has 124k miles and never had and issue. they're also known for broken exhaust manifold bolts. another no problem for me.
@@blue03r6 well most the older Chevys with collapsed lifters are over 180k miles that I see and work on. The Newer ones that fail are have a different issue but still valve train related and failing much earlier.
oh I thought that they had far less miles than that. seen videos at the dealers replacing the lifters under warranty. at any rate, I blame the oils. or actually put the blame on the manufacturers recommendations to reduce additives like zinc because it damages the emissions components. to me that's putting a bandaid fix on shitty designed emissions components. i'd rather run oils with higher zinc etc and replace converters which is a hell of a lot easier and less expensive.
@@blue03r6 it happens because of lack of oil pressure during activation. This causes the lifter to bind internally and create a knurling effect. It's not from contaminated oil necessarily. More a wear and tear issue over time dropping pressure. The early ones can be from contamination. Lack of oil filter changes causing pressure to drop when it plugs, could also be that screen underneath the oil pressure sensor that plugs up causing it to drop pressure at the lifter.
Can I get the link to buy the rod please for my 5.3 motor and that oil blocker peice
www.crazedperformancerepair.com/product-page/lifter-release-kit
You don't need that really unless you mess it up real bad take some tranny fluid spray in the intake write down the carburetor try not to get it in the carburetor try to spray it down right into the intake when it's running now come right back and quiet right down does this does this 90% if they don't come back up you messed your lifters up real bad
Mine is not showing misfires. Sounds like the tic is on #1. Does use oil and no pressure. Advice?
No pressure from plugged screen under oil sensor. Tick from collapsed lifter caused from low oil pressure during lifter activation. Oil consumption caused from PCV portion of driver side valve cover. Modify it like I do in one of my videos and you should be good. As for the tick, do the lift release trick, the VLOM mod, and the tune to shut off the AFM and you should be good.
My 2011 Silverado sounds exactly like this. Is it dangerous (damage to engine) to drive?
Yes it could be, all depends on what has failed and how.
I have a 2015 gmc 5.3. Bought truck as a project cuz it was diagnosed from previous owner from a couple mechanics shops as a stuck lifter. The truck has no engine code but there is a slight miss on cinder 7 noticed after looking at live data with .y friends scan tool.
It sounds almost like an exhaust leak or cylinder pressure being pushed out somewhere. My other friend was wondering if it could be pushing back out the intake because of a stuck lifter causi g that noise but there is no tick or clack or knock.
Can you have a stuck or collapsed or partially collapsed lifter with no knock or tick but just the air noise?
You might have a manifold leak and a lifter failure. Check to see all manifold bolts are in place. Then check compression. You could have a spun or stuck lifter but see my long video for diagnosis.
I have a 2010 suburban 5.3 had a collapsed lifter. Replaced all of them and the valley Pan. Started it up and it bent a lifter.the lifter not rod. So I put new lifters in and same cylinder collapsed again. I am lost any help or advice would be great
12:19 does anyone know the video he’s talking about doesn’t pop up I’m oniphonev
You have to click the i/information button on the top right like I say in the video. When you do 3 videos show up. the first one ruclips.net/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/видео.html is the full explanation.
so for the direct injected 6.2 2015s with a stuck lifter, do you think this works? ive seen several videos claiming it does, but not sure how to verify. Tearing it down including removing lifters and non-replaceable fuel connectors is a major pain
removing fuel injectors that is
Yes it definitely works, however be aware that they are prone to bending pushrods and it's critical that you do the VLOM modification.
Mine only throws p0300 but my scanner shows massive amounts of misfires on cyl #3 and occasional on #2, i find it odd that it only throws the random code. Hoping theres something in this video to get mine back going haha
Hey man! I bought your lifter release tool and it came today however when I removed the rocker arm the rod came right out with my hand is this a bigger problem?
How many miles did this truck have when the issue occurred? Thanks
It happens at all miles. It his most common around 180k though. The failure happens not because of a bad lifter though, it's actually caused by low oil pressure during AFM activation.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair 10-4 I just got myself the range technologies AFM delete hopefully this will help. My truck just hit 46,000
Anyone know if this and the tune is legal in California for smog purposes?
My 5.3 sounds exactly like this. Sounded just like it was on top of cylinder 1. I replaced all the lifters and rods and the noise persists. Any thoughts? Doesn't sound like rod knock. I am going to try to rev it tomorrow maybe it just needs that
I have a bent pushrod in my 6.2L. 65k miles. would your process and tool work for me? I had to drive with the bent pushrod and tapping for about 200 miles.
If it's post 2014 I offer a replacement puchrod to solve that issue. You need to make make sure lifter is still in tact though. Message me at crazedperformancerepair.com for more details.
With a magnet, I was able to pull out the top half of the #7 intake DoD lifter (spring and cap cup). So it separated. Seems the bent pushrod beat up the lifter top I pulled the head and already have a new DOD lifter in there. No delete kit, just going to sell it.
I ordered your kit, but not going to need it now. Can I cancel and substitute a paypal gift? It was going to Madison, Alabama. Or, should I still shove that plug into the oil pressure screen area for added security?!
Does a stuck lifter always make noise ? I have a cylinder 4 misfire replaced plug wire coil.....
No, but usually. It does always have a floppy rocker if it's collapsed. You could have a spun lifter too.
Daughter just bought a 07 Impala LTZ with 3.9 AFM think I have a stuck lifter like in your videos is the process the same with the v6 as the v8
I have not done one myself but did have a customer say that is works. He even told me the VLOM plug fit.
Try to just to spray some transmission fluid down in the air intake when it's running if it's a collapsed lifter it will stop making a noise almost immediately if it doesn't then then the lifter is messed up real bad you had to replace
Hey man i have a 2002 chevy tahoe does the noise but no check engine ligth a shakes but one's get warm up a goes a way i can be driving it like that ?
This doesn't apply to those. You might have a leaking intake gasket and exhaust manifold gasket on that year actually. Best test for those is to use 3m brake clean around intake while cold to see if it smooths out from vacuum leak. Also for tick look for broken exhaust manifold bolts that might be causing exhaust leak.
Ok man thanks alot i will try that out with the brake cleaner a maby be that thanks and great videos man 👌
Im doing it rigth now but is just tick tick tick but one's warm up the noise go away
@@minecraftmaster6582 the tick might be exhaust manifold leak like I said. The brake clean is for rough running.
Wow, I believe this is what's going on with my 2015, pretty good tick, runs super smooth no issues driving, idles and runs prefect. But oddly no check engine light for me.
Same with my 2018. Liqui Molly for lifter gets rid of the noise.
My 2015 same thing runs like a champ no loss in oil pressure no engine light just woody wood pecker banging around its on the passenger side
@@kendalemcafee1306 did u ever figure out what was wrong with yours? Same issue I have
@@jessicamizzell2854 naw it goes away when I first change the oil then comes back in a day or 2. When I changed my oil about a month ago I put a quart of marvel mystery oil in it and it's been running strong oil pressure is strong not burning or loosing oil 🤷🏾♂️. From all my research I have done it's just a flaw they have people been putting 500 to a million on that ole tick lol I just keep close eye on it and listen. I'm go run the ole gal till she can't no more
@@jessicamizzell2854 the good thing about the 5.3 or 4.8 whichever u may have is these motors are everywhere and fairly cheap for insurance purposes if u wanted u can buy another cheap. and build it the way you want so if the one blows up u will have a stand by to throw rite in there
If I freed up the lifter and just put everything back together how long would it run before it's lifted collapsing again if it would ever collapse again? if I was not to do no mods?
It will collapse the first time it activates.
Then how did it not collapse in this video when you drove it around the block?
What postion do i need the cam in to atttempt the release? I ordered your kit and have the intake and vlom off
Try both top and bottom of the camshaft lobe. Some work better one way then the other.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair ok thanks man, love your content. I have an envoy denali that has cylinder 1 stuck lifter. I pray this works
Does this work with the V6 engines...?
Yes sort of, but it's not worth it. The 60° v6s that have AFM can I have the lifters replaced without pulling the head so it's not worth doing. Just replace the lifter and shut the system off or solve the wax oil pressure drain activation issue.
Lifter just started ticking about a week ago . No cel. Just a tick
I picked up an LS engine with that same problem ( tick but no collapsed lifter). The tick was from metal that wore away on the lifter roller and chewed up the cam lobe.
G-day mate . I have a 6lt in my Ute . Did your release trick worked on second tap . ( thank you) but still a bit of a noise no where as bad. I looked at the cam lobe and looked fine by eye . What could it be ?
Does it only do it when cold?
2012 escalade 100k mile 6.2 dod vvt engine knocks/ticks on start up. 99% gone after driving for 5 minutes. Stethoscope picks up the noise on driver side block just under the head. All rockers moving and 200 psi compression on driver side cylinders. Exhaust manifold bolts tight. Any ideas sir?
@crazedperformance
I have a cylinder 5 misfire
Compression is at 50 for that cylinder. 08 avalanche 5.3 only 85k miles.
I never hear cylinder 5 brought up in your videos. My thoughts are it’s a lifter issue? What are your thoughts
Dear sir(s),
I purchased a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado with the 5.3 engine and have been experiencing problems with oil consumption, reduced power, AFM valve/lifter sticking on cylinder #1. I believe I qualify for remedy under your Class Action. Bradley K. Zierke v. General Motors LLC, et al., Case No. 0:16-cv-04170, in the U.S. District Court for the District of Minnesota.
Can you assist me in obtaining any relief in this matter?
Wear do I get release tool?
Crazedperformancerepair.com
Hey man I’m in a bind and was wondering what else I could use to release the lifter? I don’t have enough time to order your tool?
I think some 1/4 in extensions can fit. You will just need to cut and profile it.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair well I opened her up today and it wasn’t even a dod lifter that failed! It was a regular lifter and it wiped out the cam with it what a bummer. Trying to find a replacement reman engine but everyone’s out of stock. The lifter bore is severely scored
I have a 2008 suburban with this crap afm with an 5.3. I have issues in just one cylinder. I pulled out spark plug and it has oil in it, does that mean I have a lifter issue or a piston ring? I have 170k miles on the engine
Is it cylinder 7? If so probably a pcv valve cover issue putting oil in your intake. I have a video on that as well.
@CrazedPerformanceRepair How exactly have you came across this many customers with this issue? Do you have an independent shop?
Yes, I run my own gig from home. I recently moved and am building a bigger shop now.
@CrazedPerformanceRepair I have a 09 Tahoe 5.3 it had a collapsed lifter and a low oil pressure light on. I already changed the oil pressure sensor and the little screen under it. I Also changed all 4 lifters on passenger side, oil pump and the oil pick up tube and O-ring. But after driving it for a while the oil pressure goes back down and light comes back on. If I turn the Tahoe off it resets but after a few minutes it does it again. Do you have any suggestions as to what it can be?
Plugged oil filter, Badly leaky lifter, or second camshaft bearing.
My 2011 gmc sierra is 30 to 32 at hot idle dod is turned off any idea to boost oill pressure and thank u
It might be the oil sump o-ring. Very common for it to leak and allow air into the system.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair ok I'll try and see thank you
Hey bud great video. I have a question though. Will it always through some type of code? I have a 13 Yukon with 135,000 miles and I’ve noticed a slightly louder than normal ticking on the passenger side but no codes. Seems to run fine but I rarely drive it as it’s my wife’s.