Hey thanks for showing the taking apart the actuator. Doing that showed me a bent rod isn't good and I fixed mine. Your video saved me lots of time and cussing. thank you again
You're very welcome and thank you for watching! Please subscribe to my channel and hit the thumbs up and stay tuned and check out some of my other videos on Ford's Lincoln's and Mercury's..
I have been very successful rebuilding these. Use the 'right' pair of plyers or visegrips to relieve the motor crimp...around the brush plate. Tap the armature out with the rod removed don't hit the bakelite or it will break. free it Clean it up. The brushes are super easy to reinstall with the armature on the brushplate. Push it back in, hold it then test. use a small hammer to re-crimp... I then drill a small hole above the brush plate so it will drain water. The prefect rain hat from the salvage yard is from a 10-2019 Taurus lock rod. Too bad I drilled the rivets, I didn't realize the actuators can be remove from the brackets inside the door. There is a video on this removal.
Thank you very much. I have the keyless video for the Bricknose ready but I'll be in Detroit for a week so I'm gonna hold off posting it till I get back.
This is a very welcomed tip on swapping actuator arms. I knew ford must've had something that was universal for that era as specific model actuators would've cost them a fortune! Have four vehicles with these. Aftermarket ones are just total crap! Thumbs up!
Thanks. No farm animals included. Right to the purpose at hand. My activator was a melted mess. I also failed to notice that the outside disk of the rivet was holding the bracket snug to the door. The wire harness was so snug the actuator wouldn’t lift to unhook till I released the retainers. Eventually I successfully replaced the old with a new one from Dorman.
Actually my ALL ORIGINAL 89 with only 40k on it from factory had Philips screws in the same places as the hex screws they had there. So just saying. Not right screws. But could be right thing to do. And mine were countersunk and have extension of plastic on the back where you can see they were done at factory. Not some guy with a rotary tool.
can not get my rear passenger door open. 89 f 350 crew cab. have spent hours and hours and no luck. and no videos that i can find on line. could you PLEASE make a video so i can get my door open and replace the latch please please and thank you
I don't have a crew cab anywhere around to use for a video. I'd think if you got the door panel off you could drill out the rivet for the lock actuator and then unlock it manually. The actuator is probably frozen and stuck. I hope this helps.
nice video. say hi to your dad...a good helper you have there...what size rivet did you use to fasten the door lock actuator to the door? [edit: found them at fastenal...SKU: 0162926
Hey thanks for showing the taking apart the actuator. Doing that showed me a bent rod isn't good and I fixed mine. Your video saved me lots of time and cussing. thank you again
You're very welcome and thank you for watching! Please subscribe to my channel and hit the thumbs up and stay tuned and check out some of my other videos on Ford's Lincoln's and Mercury's..
I have been very successful rebuilding these. Use the 'right' pair of plyers or visegrips to relieve the motor crimp...around the brush plate. Tap the armature out with the rod removed don't hit the bakelite or it will break. free it Clean it up. The brushes are super easy to reinstall with the armature on the brushplate. Push it back in, hold it then test. use a small hammer to re-crimp...
I then drill a small hole above the brush plate so it will drain water. The prefect rain hat from the salvage yard is from a 10-2019 Taurus lock rod.
Too bad I drilled the rivets, I didn't realize the actuators can be remove from the brackets inside the door. There is a video on this removal.
I prefer to drill the rivets. It's so easy.
Please make a video on how you do this! Interested!
Trust me, it's much easier to just get a replacement.
I cringe when I see panels screwed on like that. Keep the videos coming, they are good. And your keyless kits are awsome.
Thank you very much. I have the keyless video for the Bricknose ready but I'll be in Detroit for a week so I'm gonna hold off posting it till I get back.
@@tonyscarcare5657 is the procedure the same for the 92-96/7 trucks? Also what size rivet did u use? I might have missed it. Thanks
@@hobuttgarage 1/4 rivet. The keyless entry for 81-91 is done with a different plug on the driver side.
@@tonyscarcare5657 sorry I meant door lock actuator placement.
Oh yes definitely the same.
This is a very welcomed tip on swapping actuator arms. I knew ford must've had something that was universal for that era as specific model actuators would've cost them a fortune! Have four vehicles with these. Aftermarket ones are just total crap! Thumbs up!
Yes for sure. Thank you!
Thanks. No farm animals included. Right to the purpose at hand. My activator was a melted mess. I also failed to notice that the outside disk of the rivet was holding the bracket snug to the door. The wire harness was so snug the actuator wouldn’t lift to unhook till I released the retainers. Eventually I successfully replaced the old with a new one from Dorman.
Good to hear and glad it helped you. Thank you very much for watching!
Just checking in for a review before I replace actuators on my Marquis.
Good! I hope it helps, buddy.
Actually my ALL ORIGINAL 89 with only 40k on it from factory had Philips screws in the same places as the hex screws they had there. So just saying. Not right screws. But could be right thing to do. And mine were countersunk and have extension of plastic on the back where you can see they were done at factory. Not some guy with a rotary tool.
I've only ever seen that at the top one below the wing window. That is really strange. Clearly, dad's wasn't originally that way.
Larry, the dad, his face is funny
Haha
You can zoom in with your editing software after the video has been shot
Thanks, I'll give it a shot, but the splice app has limited features on Android.
I smelled electrical burning and now the passenger side door won't lock, not even manually. Is that the actuator?
It sure sounds like it.
Ha I have 3 screws in the exact same spots but that's bc those brackets that the clips slid into are busted
That stuff drives me nuts.
You never mentioned what size rivet
1/4" window regulator rivet.
can not get my rear passenger door open. 89 f 350 crew cab. have spent hours and hours and no luck. and no videos that i can find on line. could you PLEASE make a video so i can get my door open and replace the latch please please and thank you
I don't have a crew cab anywhere around to use for a video. I'd think if you got the door panel off you could drill out the rivet for the lock actuator and then unlock it manually. The actuator is probably frozen and stuck. I hope this helps.
@@tonyscarcare5657 tks for the fast reply.guess we'll try that. so frustrated.
You're welcome. Shouldn't be too bad getting the door panel off even with the door closed. Ask if you need help.
ruclips.net/video/mrONM1_Zwdo/видео.htmlsi=yfwg-yUfrszbnZZ3. Broken wire may be your problem
nice video. say hi to your dad...a good helper you have there...what size rivet did you use to fasten the door lock actuator to the door? [edit: found them at fastenal...SKU: 0162926
Thanks. Those are 1/4 window regulator rivets. Any parts store should have them.