Ive had a shrinking disc for a while and still learning the whole process, its kinda addictive trying to get every little ding and dent out, I’m a bit shy on the file still, so i just do the wray schlene and use a speed file with 80g to highlight the highs and lows. Glad i found this channel, cant wait for future clips
love what you do mate ! im only 17 but i love seeing the old school pannel beating like this rather than seeing so called pannel beating with half a tin of bog poured onto a bonnet an smeared around ! ive got a hj ute and a wb statesman on the go at the moment so your work on this old Q is very inspiring ! keep posting man, love it!
Cheers mate. These videos are aimed at inspiring others to have a go. You are at an age where you can shape your future and learn this dark art. One young bloke i know of at only 21 has mastered most of what took me 30 years because he had the right training (It wasnt myself that trained him) If you get a chance look up Kyle Chappell on facebook - he is doing what you see her eon a HQ Ute.
@@streetneat yeah thats it mate, it's just hard to find the right people to learn from cause nobody really does it anymore, it's all just half a job been lazy i reckon, ive done work experience in a few places recently as im on the hunt for an apprenticeship an i couldnt believe some of the nasty shortcuts they do ! haha, and yeah ive got old mate kyle on facebook his a great bloke to get some handy tips off
@@aidenmilne8811 There is a rise of shops and guys like myself that cater for the true resto side of the market. Sorting the fly by night cowboys from the dedicated and passionate tradesman has been made easier with the advent of social media. The good guys shine and have a good following and post plenty of their work for the world to see.
I’ve just started an apprenticeship in panel beating this week and your work is amazing. I truly admire people that get the panel right rather than fill it with bogg.
Thanks mate and I hope from the outset you keep that mindset of getting it right instead of bogging it right! Bog isnt evil and used correctly over cured epoxy its fine and still a part of the refinishing process. Most of the industry uses filler as the fixall for a lot of sins - even after basic metal fabrication. My aim here is to help guys learn how to use less of it. Less filler = less issues down the track. ;-)
I’m gonna start the body work on my 68 C10 Chevy pickup. My goal is to do the body work with very minimal bondo(body filler). I’m wanting to use old school techniques and this video shows me I can do just that
Gday Streetneat long time no see i use to see u on the old holden site and watch all of the work u do on the fc and ya misses fc-e and the hg ute and then u moved and lost what u was doing as i dont go on the old holden site no more i just find u on youtube its good to see u chees to u and ya Family
Gday Mate - thanks for the kind words. I moved on from the oldholden site too as many have. Im also on facebook as Streetneat Ltd so you can see my work there too.
sorry i dont do bookface hate the thing lolyer i not got any old holdens now i sold my ht prem and bits only old holden i got now is a 2013 vf Calais v wagon ok good to catch up and cheers
Entirely your loss and of course your call. Facebook and any other social media is a tool if used correctly works for you. Websites tend to be to cliquey for me and many others so thats why people dont use them anymore. The good thing with social media is you can control who sees what and moderate it yourself. Im a hillbilly and as far removed from technology as I can be - yet I use it.
@@streetneat nice! Unfortunately here in North America, we dont know alot about the Australian cars. Yes, i did think it was a 4 door Monaro... Either way, you're doing a bang up job mate! It's really nice to see a true tradesman doung his work.
@@streetneat Hey my name is John I was wondering where are you located and how can I get in touch with you other then this way I have a car that the sand blaster did a little damage to the rooftop and wanted your advice
Hi Gary -sorry for the delayed reply - RUclips wont let me see comments and I just worked out they hide them for review - but only some comments... go figure! I use a product called Epiphos here in NZ as its a pre epoxy priming bonding agent that also holds rust back for days and even weeks in some cases. Another product is Paintgrip 253 by PPG - its basically the same thing under a different name. It is very very thin and clear - smells like varnish but isn't. Apply with a rag or can be lightly sprayed on bare steel parts.
Depending on the job I will simply acid wipe the bare steel with phosphoric acid ( de oxidine) to hold off the rust while I keep metal finishing the panel. From there it is Epoxy Primed
Gday Matt - sorry for the delayed reply - RUclips wont let me see comments and I just worked out they hide them for review - but only some comments... go figure! I would always recommend replacing the roof skin a long time before welding the sunroof hole as thats a whole next level of dealing with shrinking from welding. It can be done of course but is a whole lot of work that can be better addressed via other methods... like replacement of the offending panel. Its because the panel has nearly no shape strength to it and welding shrinks the panel that has to be re planished to stretch it back to where you need it to be - so is a fine balancing act.
Im more in favour of getting the metal right. I do a little lead loading every now and then. But to be fair its old and not very good technology for suiting modern lead free paints that have to go over the top of it. The old paints and primers were lead based. Lead wiping is just another form of bogging over surface defects. I try to get the surface to a point where it only requires less than 1mm of finishing filler and high build primers. No one applies lead that thin that I have ever seen.
streetneat I believe leading is good for reapplying at factory joints to replace lead that was there before if it has been taken out for some reason. And I believe that good quality body fillers have their place if used correctly and for finishing. Although I have seen old readers digest magazines with rust repair tutorials. Showing how to fill rust holes in sills with chicken wire and newspaper, then fibreglass filler on top. I do bodywork, rust repairs and metalwork as a sole trader. I have found old repairs like that.
I have had my Shrinking disc for years but never thought of using it that way,,, especially as i have ,on occasion shrunk the crown right out of a panel .ooops... Have you ever noticed that the metal gets really hard as it's shrunk with the disc?
Yes the surface of the steel can get a hardened coating on it. I always go over the panel with a few quick passes of 36 grit on the nine inch grinder then 80 grit on the DA sander.
With the right application of the disc yes certainly it will work well. You are looking for the stretched areas. Try it in small stages and smaller areas and you should soon work out if you are on the right path.
Any panel beating and automotive supply shop will keep them. The problem is many of the salespeople have zero clue to what the difference is between a metal body file and a bog file so just go in armed with the right info. DONT let them fob you off with -'there is no difference mate' line.
I got mine from Rods n relics resto supplies South Australia many years ago. Im not sure if he is stil selling them. I have thought about getting these made myself as I get a lot of enquiry for them.
Ive had a shrinking disc for a while and still learning the whole process, its kinda addictive trying to get every little ding and dent out, I’m a bit shy on the file still, so i just do the wray schlene and use a speed file with 80g to highlight the highs and lows.
Glad i found this channel, cant wait for future clips
love what you do mate ! im only 17 but i love seeing the old school pannel beating like this rather than seeing so called pannel beating with half a tin of bog poured onto a bonnet an smeared around ! ive got a hj ute and a wb statesman on the go at the moment so your work on this old Q is very inspiring ! keep posting man, love it!
Cheers mate. These videos are aimed at inspiring others to have a go. You are at an age where you can shape your future and learn this dark art. One young bloke i know of at only 21 has mastered most of what took me 30 years because he had the right training (It wasnt myself that trained him) If you get a chance look up Kyle Chappell on facebook - he is doing what you see her eon a HQ Ute.
@@streetneat yeah thats it mate, it's just hard to find the right people to learn from cause nobody really does it anymore, it's all just half a job been lazy i reckon, ive done work experience in a few places recently as im on the hunt for an apprenticeship an i couldnt believe some of the nasty shortcuts they do ! haha, and yeah ive got old mate kyle on facebook his a great bloke to get some handy tips off
@@aidenmilne8811 There is a rise of shops and guys like myself that cater for the true resto side of the market. Sorting the fly by night cowboys from the dedicated and passionate tradesman has been made easier with the advent of social media. The good guys shine and have a good following and post plenty of their work for the world to see.
I’ve just started an apprenticeship in panel beating this week and your work is amazing. I truly admire people that get the panel right rather than fill it with bogg.
Thanks mate and I hope from the outset you keep that mindset of getting it right instead of bogging it right! Bog isnt evil and used correctly over cured epoxy its fine and still a part of the refinishing process. Most of the industry uses filler as the fixall for a lot of sins - even after basic metal fabrication. My aim here is to help guys learn how to use less of it. Less filler = less issues down the track. ;-)
I’m gonna start the body work on my 68 C10 Chevy pickup. My goal is to do the body work with very minimal bondo(body filler). I’m wanting to use old school techniques and this video shows me I can do just that
Great instruction thanks. Tackling a panel on the side of my mini van so I’ll have to try those ideas!
think i found my new show to watch on here,, nice work on the hq
Really nice clear information here. The last owner of my truck solved the roof oilcanning with a half inch of bog
Thanks mate. I hate bogwork - so I trained myself to avoid it with actual panel beating hahaha.
genius work! Keep it up!
Excellent mate ... great to see old school professional tradesmen passing on their skills ...
Gday Streetneat
long time no see i use to see u on the old holden site and watch all of the work u do on the fc and ya misses fc-e and the hg ute and then u moved and lost what u was doing as i dont go on the old holden site no more
i just find u on youtube its good to see u
chees to u and ya Family
Gday Mate - thanks for the kind words. I moved on from the oldholden site too as many have. Im also on facebook as Streetneat Ltd so you can see my work there too.
sorry i dont do bookface hate the thing lolyer i not got any old holdens now i sold my ht prem and bits only old holden i got now is a 2013 vf Calais v wagon
ok good to catch up and cheers
Entirely your loss and of course your call. Facebook and any other social media is a tool if used correctly works for you. Websites tend to be to cliquey for me and many others so thats why people dont use them anymore. The good thing with social media is you can control who sees what and moderate it yourself. Im a hillbilly and as far removed from technology as I can be - yet I use it.
Awesome to see guys out there still doing proper metal work.
Cheers from Canada!
Is that a Monaro that you're working on?
Close- its a four door so just a basic Belmont. They did sell four door HQ Monaros - but they are traditionally two door coupes.
@@streetneat nice! Unfortunately here in North America, we dont know alot about the Australian cars. Yes, i did think it was a 4 door Monaro...
Either way, you're doing a bang up job mate! It's really nice to see a true tradesman doung his work.
@@streetneat Hey my name is John I was wondering where are you located and how can I get in touch with you other then this way I have a car that the sand blaster did a little damage to the rooftop and wanted your advice
@@jonathanboykin1484 You can find me on Facebook under Streetneat Ltd
Nice work.
What file do you use to finish off the metal? Do you use sand paper on a file to finish off? Or just file, clean and prime?
Master！
Hi, just wondering what you use to stop the bare metal from developing surface rust.
Hi Gary -sorry for the delayed reply - RUclips wont let me see comments and I just worked out they hide them for review - but only some comments... go figure! I use a product called Epiphos here in NZ as its a pre epoxy priming bonding agent that also holds rust back for days and even weeks in some cases. Another product is Paintgrip 253 by PPG - its basically the same thing under a different name. It is very very thin and clear - smells like varnish but isn't. Apply with a rag or can be lightly sprayed on bare steel parts.
Do you think you could do this to a hood ? I have a rabbi pickup and the hood has a wowy in the center of the hood :(
Looks great mate! i appreciate the tips. How long do you leave the panels in bare metal before priming?
Depending on the job I will simply acid wipe the bare steel with phosphoric acid ( de oxidine) to hold off the rust while I keep metal finishing the panel. From there it is Epoxy Primed
@@streetneat Thanks for the info mate, keep up the hard work.
Have you ever had a go at welding in a sunroof hole? Whats your thoughts for warpage on he roof?
Gday Matt - sorry for the delayed reply - RUclips wont let me see comments and I just worked out they hide them for review - but only some comments... go figure! I would always recommend replacing the roof skin a long time before welding the sunroof hole as thats a whole next level of dealing with shrinking from welding. It can be done of course but is a whole lot of work that can be better addressed via other methods... like replacement of the offending panel. Its because the panel has nearly no shape strength to it and welding shrinks the panel that has to be re planished to stretch it back to where you need it to be - so is a fine balancing act.
glad to see your bog file is rusty, I presume you are in favour of leading, something I have started learning
Im more in favour of getting the metal right. I do a little lead loading every now and then. But to be fair its old and not very good technology for suiting modern lead free paints that have to go over the top of it. The old paints and primers were lead based. Lead wiping is just another form of bogging over surface defects. I try to get the surface to a point where it only requires less than 1mm of finishing filler and high build primers. No one applies lead that thin that I have ever seen.
streetneat I believe leading is good for reapplying at factory joints to replace lead that was there before if it has been taken out for some reason.
And I believe that good quality body fillers have their place if used correctly and for finishing.
Although I have seen old readers digest magazines with rust repair tutorials. Showing how to fill rust holes in sills with chicken wire and newspaper, then fibreglass filler on top.
I do bodywork, rust repairs and metalwork as a sole trader. I have found old repairs like that.
I have had my Shrinking disc for years but never thought of using it that way,,, especially as i have ,on occasion shrunk the crown right out of a panel .ooops... Have you ever noticed that the metal gets really hard as it's shrunk with the disc?
Yes the surface of the steel can get a hardened coating on it. I always go over the panel with a few quick passes of 36 grit on the nine inch grinder then 80 grit on the DA sander.
hi im am doing a holden ek wagon, the roof is stretch and popping in and out do you recommend the disc for this, i dont want to screw up the roof TIA
With the right application of the disc yes certainly it will work well. You are looking for the stretched areas. Try it in small stages and smaller areas and you should soon work out if you are on the right path.
Good video, where would one find on of the fine tooth body files?
Any panel beating and automotive supply shop will keep them. The problem is many of the salespeople have zero clue to what the difference is between a metal body file and a bog file so just go in armed with the right info. DONT let them fob you off with -'there is no difference mate' line.
Great tips where do you get the shrinking disk from
I got mine from Rods n relics resto supplies South Australia many years ago. Im not sure if he is stil selling them. I have thought about getting these made myself as I get a lot of enquiry for them.
Cheers
Hq rear panels are not so strait to being with they have so many curves
That is very true. I spent a LOT of time to get those subtle shapes back to where they needed to be!
I'd call that "off shrinking" with the disc 😂...like off dolly.
Only thing I see wrong is your doing all that work on a four door. Why waste time and money on a four door?
Because the owner wanted a four door HQ and not a two door. Not everything has to be a two door. Wasting time is answering silly questions like this!