my boss had an older man come in to a fab shop I was working at, who took one of these shrinking disc, and completely worked out all the problems the welders induced in a big stainless steel cooking hood we had fabricated for open air restaurant. the thing was a mess when the welder put it together, but the guy had that thing laser straight and surface plate flat when he was done. amazing
Tom, I have used shrinking disks like that for getting rid of "oil canning" in auto body work, but after getting the part hot, I use a rag soaking in ice cold water to force the metal to shrink. I actually made my shrinking disk from a stainless steel lid of a pot I got at the second hand store.
Taking the heat out of the panel with a wet rag between each application of the disk lets you see straight away how much effect you have had and speeds the process up. Working on a nearby area whilst the panel is still hot will give a false result and can lead to chasing the distortion.
Nice work and very interesting to see how you fixed these. I went through the same process on my KE-55 except I opted to reverse engineer and make new panels. Someone along the way removed all the upper covers and the 3 rear frames on mine (and lost them). They replaced the covers with a rubber bellows which did not work at all. A full Z axis way cover kit is available from Makino but it is expensive at over $1700. I took measurements for the missing pieces from the drawings in the parts manual, drew in Fusion 360, and has a local shop water jet them for me. It was a lot of work and after the fact the $1700 would have been a bargain but they work as good as new!
That is awesome! I work in a machine shop that deals with complex metal spinning and the concept of metal spinning is similar to what this is doing to the metal. It’s deforming the metal and making it flow like a very thick liquid. Very neat stuff. I’m sure that that panel is work hardened to beat hell from running that disc over it, but it will serve its purpose just fine as an axis cover! Thanks for the video! Best, Kade
i put an lfx camaro engine in a 1996 miata. i had to put a bubble in the hood for clearance, somewhat like the old triumph tr4's had but right down the center. i welded a 1/2" pipe to an acetylene bottle cap and wrapped the pipe with leather to start using as a bossing mallet. i used wray's shrinking disc later in the process and it was very effective on the aluminum hood. i would work it from both the top and the bottom. what's high on the bottom is low on the top haha. probably spent about 12 hours in all, but had no choice. would have taken much longer without wray's shrinking disc.
I've been doing autobody for 22 years and the best way I have found to shrink sheet metal is to heat a small spot red hot and quench with water and it tightens it up alot.
Gday Tom! I’ve recently found Wray’s RUclips site, and I’m a huge fan! Very talented body guy, and way cool with his techniques for bodywork including recently fixing an aluminium lotus body panel. Just the skills I need to fix our Austin Healey 100’s! This is an excellent addition to the toolbox mate!
A friend showed me heat shrinking a body panel 40 years ago when we were working on my 69 Cougar. It works. That said.... This is a first for me using the angle grinder to shrink metal. Very cool. As they say...Learn something new every day.
"This problem just doesn't come up often, but there's a wonderful solution for helping you with that...." Yeah, I hate it when my problems don't come up often enough! :) (Great video, by the way.)
I seen this method done by a Englishman autobody guy and i couldn't believe my eyes he used a paint spray gun with water in some cases for a quick chill .🙌
A "quick chill" and "quench" that hardens the metal is the last thing you want. A damp rag to work one "dent" or "ripple" at a time just like the metal was stretched is how you do the job well instead of fast.
Chad : Max shrinking is the fast quinch method your working with veary low carbon sheet steel it won't take a Temper or Harden .ln most cases forget the wet rag and por the Cold water to it .
@@chadmeyer9500 Given that he's been a machinist running a job shop professionally for decades, and specializes in marine shafting, I suspect this statement is wrong. I'm sure it depends on the particular material used, many alloys won't harden from the amount of heat & cooling rate he uses. Here's a video of a tutorial on the process he did at the Bar-Z summer bash: ruclips.net/video/MtnkkAzRgP0/видео.html
It would be a quick job to cut and turn a piece of 4-6mm thick SS plate, and then form the radius on the working face. So long as it's a good fit on the angle grinder arbor, it will be nicely balanced, and a good way to try this method out. The properly shaped tool from proshaper does look better than I think I can easily make with my tools, but the home-made plate version above would be a good, quick, cheap way to test the method out.
Please walk us through the theory behind this. “Shrinking” suggests you can measure a before dimension and then the after dimension is smaller. I think this is a misnomer unless there is some mystical physics defying property of stainless sheet that I don’t know about. This looks more like a burnishing tool that smooths out and normalizes (not the heat treat normalize) the surface. It appears to be basically is like a rolling pin on cookie dough
I just finished your book. You had quite a lot there about shrinking. I had thought I welded something out of square so I started researching what to do. But once I got the part disassembled, it measured flat and square. Measure twice and then figure out why your first measurement was trash.
speaking of thin stainless warping. I can see people with little experience heating and warping the disk itself - rendering it useless. does it come with directions and warnings?
I own 3 of his shrinking discs. Two 4.5" and one 7". They kick ass work well but all 3 of mine have overside arbor holes, so it's a pita to center on the hub.
That is interesting. Could I practice shrinking on a sauce pan bottom to get the hang of it or should I get some random metal from the scrap yard to practice on? Also Tom, could you follow up with where I would need to target to get the metal to shrink? Should I start at the base of the crease at first or should I target the center of the stretched area? Thanks
He was targetting high spots on the first side, presumably to shrink down the peaks of the kinks. If I understand the principles, doing this to a flat surface would cup the worked area down?
Drive around on garbage night and collect yourself a few dryer doors, cheap metal shelves or something like that. Give it a beating with a ball peen hammer ... there's your ideal practice piece.
@@Sharklops Precisely. They came by a Makino KE55 and Tom said he would really like having that setup in his shop. He liked the open construction and the handwheels.
Can someone explain the mechanical action that allows this procedure to shrink the material? I have used the lever/Jaw style shrinker/stretcher combo to form fairings out of .025" aluminum but I don't understand how this works? Is it a heating/cooling thing?
I attended the Bar Z Bash this past Saterday and you Mr. Lipton were one of the special people I wanted to met and shake your hand and express my gratitude for awakening what was inside me for all too long. You were the one to spark my interest in metalworking and set me on a path to "meld" if you will certain methods and processes that I could adapt into my woodworking. Because of you my friend all my planes have been lapped to a beautiful finish and also through your exceptional talent of illustrating means and methods you learned and use to obtain the results in your projects. While I missed getting to meet you Stan told me of your work situation and how you were unable to get there; I will fortunately just have to attend future summer bash events in order to express my gratitude to you in person. Again, thanks for all you shoe me and others.
It’s not a makino if the constantina guard doesn’t have problems... we have Four at work and they all have issues with the guards 😉 Luckily they get replaced soon. The amount of time we spend fixing them... Well for a 30 year old machine I guess it’s ok Interesting product, seems like it’s more for thin stuff, I’ll do some reading on it never seen it before
I'd like to see what it does to dimensions. For example, if you did that evenly covering the surface of a square, would the outside dimensions end up bigger or smaller? Does the effect have a 'grain' due to the forces being applied tangentially to the disk rotation? Does it work at all with substantial lubrication? ( I can picture me coating a part with oil to minimize the galling)
That's a damn good question. I'd have to google that. (planish. (ˈplænɪʃ) vb. (Metallurgy) (tr) to give a final finish to (metal) by hammering or rolling to produce a smooth surface.)
I had to laugh, as an ex-body & fender guy (25 year's plus experience) when uncle BOZO showed up. Hint, you heat the metal via your disk to simi- straighten the work piece in small area's, then you need to have a rag & bucket of room temperature water. Heat a small area, hammer & dolly to straighten, or in this case use your "shrinking disc," then cool (SHRINK!!!!!!!) with the water. A HINT THAT YOU NEED TO SHRINK MORE, is that "oil canning" sound you had going on. The shrinking does 2 (two) things, number: 1 (one) overall shrinks the area your working with, and number 2 (two) it strengthens, and or re-strengthens the affected area. You don't need to drown the part / affected area with water, just by using a rag /cotton towel, very well soaked in water. In this case maybe a 3 inch x 3 inch towel {squeeze out the excess water} would be more than enough. I won't mention slap files or vixen files for metal straightening, that will just have to be another video.
How does heating and pressing "shrink" metal? Especially."stainless on stainless" with guaranteed galling? Try a torch and a wet rag. That's the oldest trick in the "book" none of you machinists seem to have. It's also a real bargain. The trick. Not the book. Thats "priceless".
Sad, most of his work he shows us is machining parts for his own shop. Instead of showing us work for customers. Doubt he makes as much as he really could. An artist doesn’t spend his days making easels and his own paint brushes. He simply starts painting and working for the customer!
It may be that when working for a customer, he doesn't always want to waste his own time by setting up cameras and mics, worrying about getting the right shot, then editing and uploading. Cumulatively, that's a lot of extra work when worrying about deadlines and delivery.
Look up the RUclips video "nycnc Berkeley lab tour" if you want to see where Tom makes the most! I think Tom, having his own shop at home is for fun or to expand on ideas
It would be so much easier to make new panels. Your videos used to be something to look forward to. I suppose this could pass as a thinly disguised commercial for your friend.
@@lunchboxproductions1183 Your local sheet metal fab shop, Mcmaster-Carr, MSC even Ebay or Amazon would have what you need, saving many hours of dubing around with a tool that will probably never get used again.
If you'd seen the part up close and how it operates, you'd understand that repairing them I'd more economical than making new. There are very thin pieces spot welded to edges, it's not just a simple smithy job.
The whole idea of this is it only heats the high spots, you then water cool the hot spots this shrinks them, to watch a Tom just spin the disk on them making the problem worse was painfull
I don't think that's what's happening. I think it's like what they call compression shrinkage in wood. Water spilled on a wood floor causes the individual boards to swell. Since they can't really expand, they crush the fibers and when they dry, there have shrunk and are now loose. In this case, the metal is heated up in one spot and expands against the cooler metal. Since it can't really expand very much, it bunches up and shrinks. When it cools, it's now back to its original shape, sort of. If you've ever seen hail damage repaired with a torch, it's the same thing. The dent expands against its neighbors and they fight back and shrink the spot that's hot. You might disagree. That's fine.
![State of Play | September 24, 2024 [ENGLISH]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fVs0suPHAX8/mqdefault.jpg)
my boss had an older man come in to a fab shop I was working at, who took one of these shrinking disc, and completely worked out all the problems the welders induced in a big stainless steel cooking hood we had fabricated for open air restaurant. the thing was a mess when the welder put it together, but the guy had that thing laser straight and surface plate flat when he was done. amazing
Tom, I have used shrinking disks like that for getting rid of "oil canning" in auto body work, but after getting the part hot, I use a rag soaking in ice cold water to force the metal to shrink. I actually made my shrinking disk from a stainless steel lid of a pot I got at the second hand store.
I've had to sort out so many panels after owners got their hands on these mechanical marvels...
Looking good Tom, waiting to see more of the Makino.
ATB, Robin
Never seen these before...learn something new every time I watch one of your videos. Thanks Tom.
Taking the heat out of the panel with a wet rag between each application of the disk lets you see straight away how much effect you have had and speeds the process up. Working on a nearby area whilst the panel is still hot will give a false result and can lead to chasing the distortion.
Good tip,thank you.
Thanks for showing, sheet metal work is always interesting.
Heard about them; this is the first demonstration. I'm surprised at how quickly it works. Thanks.
I've never seen anything that fast at shrinking metal, thanks for the tip!
Nice work and very interesting to see how you fixed these. I went through the same process on my KE-55 except I opted to reverse engineer and make new panels. Someone along the way removed all the upper covers and the 3 rear frames on mine (and lost them). They replaced the covers with a rubber bellows which did not work at all. A full Z axis way cover kit is available from Makino but it is expensive at over $1700. I took measurements for the missing pieces from the drawings in the parts manual, drew in Fusion 360, and has a local shop water jet them for me. It was a lot of work and after the fact the $1700 would have been a bargain but they work as good as new!
That is awesome! I work in a machine shop that deals with complex metal spinning and the concept of metal spinning is similar to what this is doing to the metal. It’s deforming the metal and making it flow like a very thick liquid. Very neat stuff. I’m sure that that panel is work hardened to beat hell from running that disc over it, but it will serve its purpose just fine as an axis cover!
Thanks for the video!
Best,
Kade
i put an lfx camaro engine in a 1996 miata. i had to put a bubble in the hood for clearance, somewhat like the old triumph tr4's had but right down the center. i welded a 1/2" pipe to an acetylene bottle cap and wrapped the pipe with leather to start using as a bossing mallet. i used wray's shrinking disc later in the process and it was very effective on the aluminum hood. i would work it from both the top and the bottom. what's high on the bottom is low on the top haha. probably spent about 12 hours in all, but had no choice. would have taken much longer without wray's shrinking disc.
I've been doing autobody for 22 years and the best way I have found to shrink sheet metal is to heat a small spot red hot and quench with water and it tightens it up alot.
best way to heat a small spot?
@@davidpontius7031 oxy
Just goes to show that marketing material is fine when it's a product you want to buy! Awesome vid.
Never seen one of those but it makes sense. I just did a bunch of heat straightening in my last video fixing my balancing stand.
Gday Tom! I’ve recently found Wray’s RUclips site, and I’m a huge fan! Very talented body guy, and way cool with his techniques for bodywork including recently fixing an aluminium lotus body panel. Just the skills I need to fix our Austin Healey 100’s! This is an excellent addition to the toolbox mate!
Heard of this, never saw it in action, very interesting.
A friend showed me heat shrinking a body panel 40 years ago when we were working on my 69 Cougar. It works. That said.... This is a first for me using the angle grinder to shrink metal. Very cool. As they say...Learn something new every day.
You mentioned the new machine in the last video and then tease us with fixing it before you show it to us....
Tease😂😂😂😂😂
Never seen one of those before...simple idea, seems to work great.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Tom. Always seeing something new on your channel. Thanks for keeping it interesting.
Thank you for the great demo. I've only used the waffle 8" disk and a blow of air. I am going to give one of these a try.
"This problem just doesn't come up often, but there's a wonderful solution for helping you with that...." Yeah, I hate it when my problems don't come up often enough! :)
(Great video, by the way.)
I seen this method done by a Englishman autobody guy and i couldn't believe my eyes he used a paint spray gun with water in some cases for a quick chill .🙌
Keith Fenner has a lot of videos of straightening shafting (axles, lead screws, etc) with an oxy-fuel torch and a water spray.
A "quick chill" and "quench" that hardens the metal is the last thing you want. A damp rag to work one "dent" or "ripple" at a time just like the metal was stretched is how you do the job well instead of fast.
@@PeregrineBF And once you heat and quench those shafts to straighten them they'll never stay straight again.
Chad : Max shrinking is the fast quinch method your working with veary low carbon sheet steel it won't take a Temper or Harden .ln most cases forget the wet rag and por the Cold water to it .
@@chadmeyer9500 Given that he's been a machinist running a job shop professionally for decades, and specializes in marine shafting, I suspect this statement is wrong. I'm sure it depends on the particular material used, many alloys won't harden from the amount of heat & cooling rate he uses.
Here's a video of a tutorial on the process he did at the Bar-Z summer bash: ruclips.net/video/MtnkkAzRgP0/видео.html
Fascinating! That is definitely something new that I learned today. Thanks!
It would be a quick job to cut and turn a piece of 4-6mm thick SS plate, and then form the radius on the working face. So long as it's a good fit on the angle grinder arbor, it will be nicely balanced, and a good way to try this method out.
The properly shaped tool from proshaper does look better than I think I can easily make with my tools, but the home-made plate version above would be a good, quick, cheap way to test the method out.
Please walk us through the theory behind this. “Shrinking” suggests you can measure a before dimension and then the after dimension is smaller. I think this is a misnomer unless there is some mystical physics defying property of stainless sheet that I don’t know about. This looks more like a burnishing tool that smooths out and normalizes (not the heat treat normalize) the surface. It appears to be basically is like a rolling pin on cookie dough
Thanks for another deposit in my knowledge bank.
Cool tool if your into thin sheet metal , that distorts as soon as you look at it ! Cheers .
Love that quote one of his best
Thanks Tom - I learned something new!
very cool tool , never have seen that,, thanks for the info..
Thanks for the info Tom!
I just finished your book. You had quite a lot there about shrinking. I had thought I welded something out of square so I started researching what to do. But once I got the part disassembled, it measured flat and square. Measure twice and then figure out why your first measurement was trash.
you can use an ordinary fibre disc as a shrinking disc simply by putting the cloth side out. works just as well and is cheap.
Take video when you do it.
when i woked at Sistema plastics, we got a Makino milling machine, amazing piece of kit.
In NZ?
@@fordsure yup
Great video! Let's see that CNC!
speaking of thin stainless warping. I can see people with little experience heating and warping the disk itself - rendering it useless. does it come with directions and warnings?
Thanks. I learn something today. By the way you were missed a the Summer Bash.
I own 3 of his shrinking discs. Two 4.5" and one 7". They kick ass work well but all 3 of mine have overside arbor holes, so it's a pita to center on the hub.
Cool! Those are great for auto body work. If you are dealing with real vehicles made out of real metal.
👍 would quenching help? Thanks!
These tools work great but a little water really helps shrink faster.
That is interesting. Could I practice shrinking on a sauce pan bottom to get the hang of it or should I get some random metal from the scrap yard to practice on? Also Tom, could you follow up with where I would need to target to get the metal to shrink? Should I start at the base of the crease at first or should I target the center of the stretched area?
Thanks
He was targetting high spots on the first side, presumably to shrink down the peaks of the kinks. If I understand the principles, doing this to a flat surface would cup the worked area down?
Drive around on garbage night and collect yourself a few dryer doors, cheap metal shelves or something like that. Give it a beating with a ball peen hammer ... there's your ideal practice piece.
Haha, as soon as you said "new mill" i knew you got yourself the KE55 you liked so much on the Saunders Tour :)
what Saunders tour was that? Do you mean when John came to Berkeley?
@@Sharklops Precisely. They came by a Makino KE55 and Tom said he would really like having that setup in his shop. He liked the open construction and the handwheels.
Can someone explain the mechanical action that allows this procedure to shrink the material? I have used the lever/Jaw style shrinker/stretcher combo to form fairings out of .025" aluminum but I don't understand how this works? Is it a heating/cooling thing?
How do you know Wray? I met him years ago at one of the MetalMeet events. He's a wealth of knowledge when it comes to metalshaping.
harrygibus Tom was one of the founders of metalmeet with Wray. Maybe he lived on the left coast then?
@@sblack48 I did not know that.
I took Wray's course a few yrs back.
Thanks I am going to get one.
I attended the Bar Z Bash this past Saterday and you Mr. Lipton were one of the special people I wanted to met and shake your hand and express my gratitude for awakening what was inside me for all too long. You were the one to spark my interest in metalworking and set me on a path to "meld" if you will certain methods and processes that I could adapt into my woodworking. Because of you my friend all my planes have been lapped to a beautiful finish and also through your exceptional talent of illustrating means and methods you learned and use to obtain the results in your projects. While I missed getting to meet you Stan told me of your work situation and how you were unable to get there; I will fortunately just have to attend future summer bash events in order to express my gratitude to you in person.
Again, thanks for all you shoe me and others.
It’s not a makino if the constantina guard doesn’t have problems... we have Four at work and they all have issues with the guards 😉
Luckily they get replaced soon. The amount of time we spend fixing them...
Well for a 30 year old machine I guess it’s ok
Interesting product, seems like it’s more for thin stuff, I’ll do some reading on it never seen it before
"THE" makino? You say it so nonchalant. :p
I'd like to see what it does to dimensions. For example, if you did that evenly covering the surface of a square, would the outside dimensions end up bigger or smaller? Does the effect have a 'grain' due to the forces being applied tangentially to the disk rotation?
Does it work at all with substantial lubrication? ( I can picture me coating a part with oil to minimize the galling)
It doesn't gall if the surface of the shrinking disc is kept smooth. Lubrication would only diminish it's effect.
The friction is supposed to create heat, then blast with air, or run a damp rag over it.
Is this called planishing?
That's a damn good question. I'd have to google that. (planish. (ˈplænɪʃ) vb. (Metallurgy) (tr) to give a final finish to (metal) by hammering or rolling to produce a smooth surface.)
Btw this is usually used to fine tune autobody panels to go from that last 5% to perfect.
GREAT VIDEO !! I DIDN'T SEE YOU AT THE " BASH " , TOO COLD ?? HOPE YOUR WELL !
I had to laugh, as an ex-body & fender guy (25 year's plus experience) when uncle BOZO showed up. Hint, you heat the metal via your disk to simi- straighten the work piece in small area's, then you need to have a rag & bucket of room temperature water. Heat a small area, hammer & dolly to straighten, or in this case use your "shrinking disc," then cool (SHRINK!!!!!!!) with the water. A HINT THAT YOU NEED TO SHRINK MORE, is that "oil canning" sound you had going on. The shrinking does 2 (two) things, number: 1 (one) overall shrinks the area your working with, and number 2 (two) it strengthens, and or re-strengthens the affected area. You don't need to drown the part / affected area with water, just by using a rag /cotton towel, very well soaked in water. In this case maybe a 3 inch x 3 inch towel {squeeze out the excess water} would be more than enough. I won't mention slap files or vixen files for metal straightening, that will just have to be another video.
you should use just the one mic, probably the lav.
Thought he was going to play with Shrinky Dink for a minute there
🤜🤛
Watching in Alabama
Hey Tom, will this work with 12 or 10 gauge steel?
Hey Tom when do we get to see the machine?
Ha .I made one of those 20 years ago out of 6" yellow brass bar stock
Cool!
So what happened to the Press? Regards, Matthew
Hi, what rpm was it spinning ?, it seems to me it was going realy slow.
A Bosch grinder runs at 11,000 rpm.
@@rodeo11 does it look and sounds like 11.000rpm in the video ?
@@zephyrold2478 No....I'd guess 10,789 rpm. heheh Just sayin'....it's a Bosch grinder and that's what they run.
He likely has it running through a variac, basically a beefy variable resistor that allows devices to run at low speed & high torque.
@@adrianblack7966 Yes maby, why I am asking is because if he is then the rpm is an importent variable in the proces.
I come here for the gronk
I wonder what annealing would do?
First to enjoy a great video.
Good news is as a tink I can use that disk better than you can.
hows it going man
have oxtoolco got a silver youtube button or has youtube discontinuede the 100k button ?
It takes several months to receive the silver play button.
@@xenonram yes but I have heart a rumor that RUclips have many creator that they only give out to 1Mill or higher
So, it's like rubbing a smooth stick on aluminum foil to flatten it in other words?
Playing in a molecular sandbox?
Abom has some parts in need of your magic hands
Show me how to use that disk to straighten a pipe 🤣
How does heating and pressing "shrink" metal? Especially."stainless on stainless" with guaranteed galling?
Try a torch and a wet rag. That's the oldest trick in the "book" none of you machinists seem to have.
It's also a real bargain. The trick. Not the book. Thats "priceless".
I'm not buying it. xP
You mean you don't believe it or you are not going to purchase it?
@@sblack48 the latter, but ye.. it was also a joke =D ( if I really needed one I'd probably be able to make my own on the lathe )
He Ka oh, sorry 😳
@@sblack48 don't be x)
Sad, most of his work he shows us is machining parts for his own shop. Instead of showing us work for customers. Doubt he makes as much as he really could. An artist doesn’t spend his days making easels and his own paint brushes. He simply starts painting and working for the customer!
It may be that when working for a customer, he doesn't always want to waste his own time by setting up cameras and mics, worrying about getting the right shot, then editing and uploading. Cumulatively, that's a lot of extra work when worrying about deadlines and delivery.
Almost nothing Tom does in his shop is customer work, he works a day job at a national laboratory.
Look up the RUclips video "nycnc Berkeley lab tour" if you want to see where Tom makes the most!
I think Tom, having his own shop at home is for fun or to expand on ideas
EFormance Engineering there you go! Thanks!
@@eformance Oh, great info. Thanks.
It would be so much easier to make new panels. Your videos used to be something to look forward to. I suppose this could pass as a thinly disguised commercial for your friend.
Duh! This isn't about repairing the panels for his CNC or advertising his friends product, it's about process. Good job Tom!
Just make a new one...no? Lot cheaper than $35.
I doubt many machine shops have 26ga drop laying around and at $150+ for a sheet repair is a much better option
@@lunchboxproductions1183 Your local sheet metal fab shop, Mcmaster-Carr, MSC even Ebay or Amazon would have what you need, saving many hours of dubing around with a tool that will probably never get used again.
You guys are missing the obvious....it was an excuse to buy a new tool! Duh! 🙄
@@sblack48 This is true...
If you'd seen the part up close and how it operates, you'd understand that repairing them I'd more economical than making new. There are very thin pieces spot welded to edges, it's not just a simple smithy job.
Crap
It's a f*****-up version of an English will I'm not impressed. 👎
Not impressed
I would like to see you put that back together!
You have crossed to the "Dark side".
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Ray is a master, I follow his channel and have learned a lot from him, good video Tom, cheers, Doug
The whole idea of this is it only heats the high spots, you then water cool the hot spots this shrinks them, to watch a Tom just spin the disk on them making the problem worse was painfull
I don't think that's what's happening. I think it's like what they call compression shrinkage in wood. Water spilled on a wood floor causes the individual boards to swell. Since they can't really expand, they crush the fibers and when they dry, there have shrunk and are now loose.
In this case, the metal is heated up in one spot and expands against the cooler metal. Since it can't really expand very much, it bunches up and shrinks. When it cools, it's now back to its original shape, sort of. If you've ever seen hail damage repaired with a torch, it's the same thing. The dent expands against its neighbors and they fight back and shrink the spot that's hot. You might disagree. That's fine.
Cool it with a damp rag.
Hey Lugnut, you and Saunders doing something in Aerospace?
Sorry you missed the Summer Bash, It was the best ever. Can not wait for the next one.
I tried this with a 2.5mm thick aluminum disc I cut out and it worked pretty well
This is a first ; rub it and it gets smaller. Who'd a thunk it?