Love it! Most videos don’t test the faulty sensor. That was a good, complete tutorial. Repair guy wanted $550 to swap out my Thermal sensor. DIYed it, $7 part.
We have this exact fridge and I've fixed most issues except the ice maker so I'm hoping you can help. I'll give some backstory. I usually fix our own appliances but this came with our new home and Monogram is much more complex than traditional fridges it seems. When we moved in it worked just fine for a few months except the ice maker didn't work. The water doesn't come out of the inlet that goes into the ice tray. The water inlet for the water dispenser works fine. We decided to ignore it since we just moved in and had bigger things to worry about and just made ice using traditional trays in the freezer. But then suddenly the fridge's temperature was having strange readings where it said the fridge was 40 degrees and then the freezer was -1 or -2 degrees. I assumed coils were frozen over and checked everything but couldn't find anything wrong. For the first time I decided to call a technician that claimed to be certified for GE Monogram, but when he arrived he tried doing the basic diagnosis of checking the coils. They weren't frozen over and seemed to have no idea what was wrong. Charged me for the diagnosis and then he called someone else who he said "knows more about these fridges" and said we needed a new computer and that person would come to replace it and it would cost over $1000. This seemed ridiculous as we could buy a brand new fridge for not much more than this. I told him no thanks. I decided to take another look and cleaned out the fridge and just opened things up and checked all the parts and cleaned them. I cleaned the compressor squirrel cage in the back to remove dust and noticed some water in the overflow at the bottom and cleaned that out. Put everything back together and suddenly the fridge was working perfectly fine again and reading 0 and 37 degrees as it should and it's been working fine ever since. It's been at least 6 months or more. BUT the ice maker still doesn't work and it would be nice to figure this out. No coils seem frozen over and when you try the ice maker you can hear it working and the parts turning. The only issue is just the water inlet doesn't put any water into the tray. Do you have any suggestions on what this could be?
@Podtrash Radio - As you said, these split evaporator type of fridges with water & icemakers are a little more complicated and as the old engineering adage goes "complexity hampers reliability". I would start the diagnostic trouble shooting process at the water valve solenoid for the icemaker. If you're lucky, it's just a faulty water valve solenoid. If it's not the solenoid however, then you'll have go through the entire system with digital volt meter in hand. Your call then if you want to work downstream of the valve to the ice maker, or upstream back to the main control board. For example, if the valve isn't getting power, is it because the relay on the main board is shot (or the transistor/circuit that fires it), or is it because the main board is not getting the water flow signal from the icemaker sensor/switch to trigger the relay? Lots to check, but I would start at the valve since its' the easiest and electo-magnetic solenoid valves are a known weak link. No idea of course if that's the GE factory approved flow chart trouble shooting direction - I'm an auto tech by trade, not an appliance tech. Like you, I've always fix all our appliances, HVAC, and electronics myself & saved many thousands doing so. Haven't called a service tech ever other than once to recharge our outside AC unit. Most of the time, it's really simple little things to fix as you mentioned. One other little thought if you plan on keeping the fridge... Not sure how easy it is to get main boards for this model anymore. I ordered one for ours about 7 years ago when you could find them on eBay for around $100 bucks even through there was nothing wrong with ours. It's a nice spare part to have on hand, even just for helping trouble shoot problems to the board or one of the other components in the system.
Hi yes that helped me out quite a bit. My refrigerator was running on low speed it seemed in the back of the evaporator was always getting frozen solid. So in the morning I am going toTest those refrigerator and freezer sensors to see that they are operating properly thanks for the approval good luck with your fridge
Thanks for the video. An easy way to melt the ice on the evaporator coil is to put a large pot of boiling hot water (with a pot holder underneath to protect the shelf) inside and close the door. Repeat until the ice is gone. Takes about an hour but you don't have to watch the hair dryer melting the ice lol. Take care and stay safe.
Thanks John for a clear and well presented video. My freezer sensor has gone after 16 years so I might me lucky. How important is the heat seal because I have watched two other sensor repair and they use only a crimps to connect the wires.
As I stated in the video, if you want the new sensor to last and your wiring harness not be contaminated by moisture ingress; sealing the mechanical splice with adhesive lined heat shrink is IMPERATIVE.
The temp sensor in my refrigerator freezer section went and with 2!sensors in the freezer, one reading 0 degrees and one reading 85 degrees at the evaporator, from the motherboard i knew my problem, replaced the thermistor and the both are reading a freezer temp with resistance difference between the two being very close to each other. I found marine grade heat shrink very important. And i cover the ends of the heat shrink with a little RTV from my automotive supplies. And i do love my LED bulbs ! And you are lucky my motherboard is $275.
Great vid John. I have a GE refrigerator as well and the problem I m experiencing is its nit cooling at all. We had a power outage in the neighborhood from a Strom and when the power came on, the fridge no longer cools anymore. All fans are working, compressor turns on. It might be something electrical. Possible main board malfunction? Took apart the fridge and tested the thermistor in ice water and the highest it got was 13.25. Tested in room temp and it read 4.99- 5.03. Neither freezer nor fridge gets cold. Same manufacture fridge except my freezer at at the bottom. Help please!!
Have fun with the repair. Something strangely satisfying watching the adhesive goo ooze out then ends of heat shrink as it shrinks around a wire. Small things amuse small minds I guess 😄
Perfect DIY and explanation. mine from facing same issue (Lebenssil kollektion) but well i believe the concept will be the same. will get try once spare part arriving. Yes. Pandemic drive me more DIY staff. no choice, need surviving.
Great video. Thank you. I tested the continuity of the heating element below and it works, vacuumed all the dust and debris from the front underneath and the rear condenser unit, cleaned the fan, I replaced the computer board. My freezer won't go to 0 degrees it holds at 13 degrees and the fridge is fine at 37 degrees. Any suggestions? Should I change the temp sensor like you showed.
Five star presentation thank you. Glad there's some beer in the door of the fridge. I need one after finding out there was no battery in my new multi meter! I don't have hot glue, so I'll use a bit of super glue.
Just found your video my mini fridge has a sensor and a cover kept shutting off yet I took the cover off now it's working. Does that mean it's going out or the cover was messing with the sensor
Hello John. I have tested my thermistor and it reads 17.84 kilo ohm's. What should I test next? The fan is working but lightly. Not sure if that's the culprit of the coils freezing up. Any feedback much appreciated.
I have a hisense rb372n4ac2, same problem. Should i change the sensor nearby the evaporator like you did, or another sensor in de freezer underneath on top. There also another sensor in the fridge. The fan is turning pretty and the compressor is constantly running
OMG ☹as originally suspected I think it’s my freezer evaporator thermal sensor now! Freezer temp getting colder @ -1F yesterday. I replaced the freezer side panel thermistor behind the oval plastic grille. Temperature went even lower -13F (12hrs later). Do I need to remove the evaporator to get @the 2nd freezer temp sensor? Gerr! It’s a bear to get into the evaporator freezer section. Didn’t even see the sensor on another RUclips video of replacing the condensate pan just under the evaporator. Can’t find a diagram of its exact location. GE Ziss480nxbss. Wondering if I can pull it out through the rubber plug (easily accesed) of wires into the evaporator compartment though the wall separating the evaporator and the compressor up top? In your video your sensor came through the back wall through a rubber plug of wires (although your sensor sat in a specific hole near the evaporator). My rubber plug of wires is easily accessed at the top compressor housing compartment. Help please please🙏🏻 need an exact location of my freezer sensor.
What was the resistance written on the wire of the old thermistor? What was the value written on the new one (at room temp 25C)? I would assume that it has to match? The old one seemed to work (a few k ohms and changed when cooled). How many thermistors are in a normal fridge (refrigerator plus freezer (LG three door)?
There were/are no resistance values on the wires/thermistors, you have to get that info online as I show in the video @ time index: 4:49. Your specific model might also indicate the values on the schematic diagram which is a pamphlet either on the back of the fridge or in a pouch beside the main board (at least on GE) no idea what LG offers. A few K ohms out from nominal is most certainly enough to cause issues. Test values have to be pretty much what the manufacture call for, in this case 6.2K at 68F and 16.3K at freezing, just as shown and indicated in that GE online test manual. Other brands may have different diagnostic test methodology however so don't just presume all are the same. All depends on the design of the refrigerator as to how many thermistors are used. Two evap units like this one will generally have 4 (one on each evap, and one for each cooling compartment). That information is shown on the schematic diagram for the specific make and model or look it up online.
Wow, as many as 4. I was wondering if there was even one in the Ice maker area (5?, left side of top refrigerator section). So far it has been confusing at best to locate good, non-conflicting LG data for my model (LFX31925ST /08 ASTCNA8). Mine suffers from the refrigerator section getting too cold, so that is likely where the defective part is (if i can only find it). I think i will pull it out and see what is on the back (one line diagram).@@Rchelicopterfun
Hey John. I replaced my freezer sensor because it was faulty. Now the freezer is only managing to get to minus 11 degrees centigrade maximum (despite the setting set to minus 21 on the dial). I took the sensor out again and checked the resistance and at zero degrees water temperature, it read 28.8 kilo ohms and not as your video suggested 16.3. Would you say the replacement sensor is wrong (despite part number was WR55X10025) or even faulty? By the way, the sensor I replaced had a reading of 14.6 kilo ohms at zero degree - interesting!
Sounds like a bad thermistor/temp sensor if you checked it at 0C and it's reading 28.8k ohms. The control board would be seeing that 28.8K value as a fairly cold reading (likely around -21c) lol. And that is why it's not getting any colder than -11. When diagnosing temp sensors like this if you first want to test a "bad sensor hypothesis", I have in the past substituted the thermistor with a resistor to determine if it's a sensor or the control board. If you were to put a 15K resistor in for example (so the control board is thinking the freezer temp is around 0C, and then the freezer started getting nice and cold, you know the sensor is faulty and the control board is working. If on the other hand, the freezer doesn't get any colder, then it's likely a control board or something else. You never said what the initial problem was however, so I'm just going by the few facts that have been presented. I'm also not an appliance repair technician, my technical training is automotive, but electrical fault tracing is fairly universal. 🙂
Wow John, I have almost the same exact fridge PSS26MSTD. Great tutorial. My issue is the freezer builds up frost every week or two and I have to let it melt and plug fridge back in. I heard the amazon heaters are horrible so I was going to buy a GE heater. Wondering if the Amazon Thermostats and Temp sensors are decent. I guess my only concern is if I should replace all 3 parts considering I have to pay out of pocket. No help from landlord. I guess I’m going to open the freezer panel and test the Temp sensor first. Any suggestions, like if the sensor is bad, are the other 2 parts bad as well? Any ideas would be highly appreciated as I have been unplugging fridge for about 3 months because too expensive to get a repair man! They want like $600. All 3 parts from Ge are $180, but the heater alone is $105. So if I don’t have to replace heater, it would be great.
Great Video btw John. Very clear instructions on how to test. I was wondering, if I put a multimeter on the heater and there is continuity, does that mean it’s good? Just curious on how to check if it’s bad. This has been an ongoing problem. I’ll update when I check the temp sensor first. Sry for the long message! Take care.
Sorry, no idea on the heater as I've never done one. If I had a suspect defrost heater, I would be researching the full diagnostic fault tracing procedure using Google and/or the repair forums. Could be several things I would think ranging from the temp senor to the heater relay to the heater itself, or worse case, the control board.
I'm looking at a used fridge for sale and they said the issue is "the back of the freezer coils will freeze up . probably needs a new defrost temperature control button or whatever it's called". Could this be the issue? Or what could it be?
My fridge ( (LG GBB60SWFZS) always freeze, a lot. After 1 week all the bottom freezes and needs to be thawed again, the heating element MEE62606001 does not turn on. After thawing, it freezes again and never thaws I measured the sensor (6500JB1001N) at room temperature was 5K ohms (5000 ohms) When completely frozen after a day, the sensor shows 9K ohms (~ 8500 ohms) where I can get my sensor (6500JB1001N) data sheet ????????? Maybe is normal for this sensor 8,5K ohms in freeze ?????? THANK YOU
Hi, John I snipped my thermistor aka temperature sensor aka defrost sensor...I looked up everything for Kenmore Model: 59672003011 and there’s not shit about a replacement, not even Sears could understand why it’s missing from there parts replacement, they only show thermistor cover for sale, so bizarre. Anyway a tip I read online most thermistors are the same, but I bought a whirlpool one that looks identical, is that safe to say? I was told certain black colored bottoms that are round in shape from early years are prone to fail. Mines white with black flat bottom so fingers crossed, it has lasted years before so..it’s giving no reading, so junk now. But I had to clip mine cause leads vanish behind wall, is shrink seal good enough or should I try and find where the hell these leads go too? New piece has long leads. I’m scared it’ll short. Electrical tape big no no, right? Thanks
@Chadd Steinberg, I'm not an appliance repair technician, so I don't know what brands use what sensors, if they are all the same, or have different resistive values. All you can do is try it and see if it works or call in a tech to do the repair. If you really wanted to know if the resistance value of the new one you got is the same as what was in there before would be to check another one of the temp sensors in your fridge to see what its resistive characteristics are and if they compare to the new one at various temperatures. The standard practice to replace these things is exactly how I show in the video because the wiring going through the inner fridge cabinet to the mother board on the exterior is both well sealed at the exit location and likely also running through insulating foam making it next to impossible to pull out. Cut the wiring, and solder the new sensor into position using an environmentally SEALED insulation method such as environmental heat shrink like I show. Electrical tape will not keep moisture from migrating into the wiring.
@@Rchelicopterfun Oh, I assumed you did a lot of appliance repairs. Thought the faulty thermistor tip was something that could help or you’d heard about. None the less your video was very informative, I’ll attempt it the way you had. My new thermistor came with caps to clench around the soldiered wire, just debating whether to trust them or heat shrink your way..minor decisions that could cause a short, no wonder I’m a procrastinator 😅 by the way If you ever have to melt ice again, grab a handheld heat gun, cut the time down tremendously compared to hair blower. I’ll have to checkout your other content. Thanks for getting back in timely manner John 👍🏻
@Chadd Steinberg - I'm actually an automotive tech by trade and have a background in electronics as well. I have repaired a lot of appliances & home electronics over the decades, but that of course is no substitute for full time appliance field repair experience where you get a very good idea of what brand components are universal or proprietary. For specifics like that, I rely on Google search 🙂. Not sure I would want to use a heat gun on a refrigerator evaporator coil. That kind of heat could send refrigerant system pressures well beyond their design tolerance I would think. I was actually somewhat nervous even using the hair dryer but figured it would be fairly safe considering the defrost cycle would heat the evap coils up about the same amount. I also didn't want to melt the plastic right behind the evap or the wiring.
Sir what is the difference between defrost sensor and tempereture sensor...another ....what is sensor-F...is sensor-f is temepreture sensor ..plz guide ..
wait....NO!!! you cut wires to a part ( just after you defrosted the coils with a hair dryer) without even attemping to remove the tape or whatever from the next connecting point. Yes you mention that it looks like a past repair fix that but doesn't mean you should just cut the wires!!! What if that isn't the problem??? how may people following this video has cut those wires and now need to replace that part AND the part that is broken?!?!?!??!! Why didn't you undo the tape and follow it back to the next "piece"????
YES! That is not easy to remove tape partner, it's adhesive lined environmental heat-shrink permanently bonded to the wiring. Impossible to remove - it has to be cut out. Also, you can't test a thermocouple in circuit - it would give an incorrect resistance reading - it has to be removed from circuit for testing. If the thermocouple tested out ok after removing it, then you simply splice it back in; but it's so inexpensive & a common mode of failure, I would have replaced it regardless. This is electronics diagnostics 101. Start at the easy, most likely, and least expensive components and work your way through the circuit. Training & experience vs. ignorant RUclips comments in other words.
Simple, testing the component is the only way to know if that is the real problem or not. Tossing parts at things in hope it might fix the problem wastes both time and money. Especially on something simple like a thermistor that is so easy to test and only takes a couple minutes. The question is why wouldn't you test it.
@@Rchelicopterfun I assume you would already have purchased new thermistors before you took things apart .They are inexpensive (5-6 dollars), so why not save time and just put new ones in since you would be cutting the wires to test them anyway..?? Same situation with the defrost element which is inexpensive. If you are going to take everything apart, wouldn't it make sense to just replace these parts to see if the problem is fixed, possibly ruling out a mother board replacement ($200-400) or service call.
Yes, regardless on a low cost item like this that has to be cut out, you are going to replace it while you've got things all apart, that only makes sense. That wasn't your original comment however; you asked why test it and I took the time to explain why. A simple 2 minute test to put your mind at ease, know you found the likely issue and confidence to button everything back up.
Good idea with the hot glue in the heatshrink
Might help if you're in a bind.
Love it! Most videos don’t test the faulty sensor. That was a good, complete tutorial. Repair guy wanted $550 to swap out my Thermal sensor. DIYed it, $7 part.
Glad it helped
Gold!
We have this exact fridge and I've fixed most issues except the ice maker so I'm hoping you can help. I'll give some backstory. I usually fix our own appliances but this came with our new home and Monogram is much more complex than traditional fridges it seems. When we moved in it worked just fine for a few months except the ice maker didn't work. The water doesn't come out of the inlet that goes into the ice tray. The water inlet for the water dispenser works fine. We decided to ignore it since we just moved in and had bigger things to worry about and just made ice using traditional trays in the freezer.
But then suddenly the fridge's temperature was having strange readings where it said the fridge was 40 degrees and then the freezer was -1 or -2 degrees. I assumed coils were frozen over and checked everything but couldn't find anything wrong. For the first time I decided to call a technician that claimed to be certified for GE Monogram, but when he arrived he tried doing the basic diagnosis of checking the coils. They weren't frozen over and seemed to have no idea what was wrong. Charged me for the diagnosis and then he called someone else who he said "knows more about these fridges" and said we needed a new computer and that person would come to replace it and it would cost over $1000. This seemed ridiculous as we could buy a brand new fridge for not much more than this. I told him no thanks.
I decided to take another look and cleaned out the fridge and just opened things up and checked all the parts and cleaned them. I cleaned the compressor squirrel cage in the back to remove dust and noticed some water in the overflow at the bottom and cleaned that out. Put everything back together and suddenly the fridge was working perfectly fine again and reading 0 and 37 degrees as it should and it's been working fine ever since. It's been at least 6 months or more.
BUT the ice maker still doesn't work and it would be nice to figure this out. No coils seem frozen over and when you try the ice maker you can hear it working and the parts turning. The only issue is just the water inlet doesn't put any water into the tray. Do you have any suggestions on what this could be?
@Podtrash Radio - As you said, these split evaporator type of fridges with water & icemakers are a little more complicated and as the old engineering adage goes "complexity hampers reliability".
I would start the diagnostic trouble shooting process at the water valve solenoid for the icemaker. If you're lucky, it's just a faulty water valve solenoid. If it's not the solenoid however, then you'll have go through the entire system with digital volt meter in hand. Your call then if you want to work downstream of the valve to the ice maker, or upstream back to the main control board. For example, if the valve isn't getting power, is it because the relay on the main board is shot (or the transistor/circuit that fires it), or is it because the main board is not getting the water flow signal from the icemaker sensor/switch to trigger the relay? Lots to check, but I would start at the valve since its' the easiest and electo-magnetic solenoid valves are a known weak link.
No idea of course if that's the GE factory approved flow chart trouble shooting direction - I'm an auto tech by trade, not an appliance tech. Like you, I've always fix all our appliances, HVAC, and electronics myself & saved many thousands doing so. Haven't called a service tech ever other than once to recharge our outside AC unit. Most of the time, it's really simple little things to fix as you mentioned.
One other little thought if you plan on keeping the fridge... Not sure how easy it is to get main boards for this model anymore. I ordered one for ours about 7 years ago when you could find them on eBay for around $100 bucks even through there was nothing wrong with ours. It's a nice spare part to have on hand, even just for helping trouble shoot problems to the board or one of the other components in the system.
Great video. Having same problem with my Kenmore Elite refrigerator but same concept for testing the sensor. thanks
Hi yes that helped me out quite a bit. My refrigerator was running on low speed it seemed in the back of the evaporator was always getting frozen solid. So in the morning I am going toTest those refrigerator and freezer sensors to see that they are operating properly thanks for the approval good luck with your fridge
Hope you find the fault and that it's an easy sensor replacement fix.
Very good explanation. Greetings from creators from Indonesia. And always success
Thanks for the video. An easy way to melt the ice on the evaporator coil is to put a large pot of boiling hot water (with a pot holder underneath to protect the shelf) inside and close the door. Repeat until the ice is gone. Takes about an hour but you don't have to watch the hair dryer melting the ice lol. Take care and stay safe.
Great video John, very clear and concise. Keep up the good work. Mick Northern Ireland 👍🍻
Thanks mate - stay safe.
Thanks John for a clear and well presented video. My freezer sensor has gone after 16 years so I might me lucky. How important is the heat seal because I have watched two other sensor repair and they use only a crimps to connect the wires.
As I stated in the video, if you want the new sensor to last and your wiring harness not be contaminated by moisture ingress; sealing the mechanical splice with adhesive lined heat shrink is IMPERATIVE.
The temp sensor in my refrigerator freezer section went and with 2!sensors in the freezer, one reading 0 degrees and one reading 85 degrees at the evaporator, from the motherboard i knew my problem, replaced the thermistor and the both are reading a freezer temp with resistance difference between the two being very close to each other. I found marine grade heat shrink very important. And i cover the ends of the heat shrink with a little RTV from my automotive supplies. And i do love my LED bulbs ! And you are lucky my motherboard is $275.
Nice job. Wasn't aware of the Adhesive Line Heat Shrink.
Nicely done and great point about the soldering and the use of heatshrink - especially with adhesive!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great vid John. I have a GE refrigerator as well and the problem I m experiencing is its nit cooling at all. We had a power outage in the neighborhood from a Strom and when the power came on, the fridge no longer cools anymore. All fans are working, compressor turns on. It might be something electrical. Possible main board malfunction? Took apart the fridge and tested the thermistor in ice water and the highest it got was 13.25. Tested in room temp and it read 4.99- 5.03. Neither freezer nor fridge gets cold. Same manufacture fridge except my freezer at at the bottom.
Help please!!
Main board in back
This is a great video. Thanks for posting this. I have a different fridge but I'm inspired to keep trying to find & fix the problem.
Hello can you also include a link to the adhesive heat
shrink you used ?
Clear: amzn.to/3QFpaVF
Black: amzn.to/3QCfcUY
just bought thank you ! @@Rchelicopterfun
Have fun with the repair. Something strangely satisfying watching the adhesive goo ooze out then ends of heat shrink as it shrinks around a wire. Small things amuse small minds I guess 😄
Perfect DIY and explanation. mine from facing same issue (Lebenssil kollektion) but well i believe the concept will be the same. will get try once spare part arriving. Yes. Pandemic drive me more DIY staff. no choice, need surviving.
Hope it works for you 👍
Great video. Thank you. I tested the continuity of the heating element below and it works, vacuumed all the dust and debris from the front underneath and the rear condenser unit, cleaned the fan, I replaced the computer board. My freezer won't go to 0 degrees it holds at 13 degrees and the fridge is fine at 37 degrees. Any suggestions? Should I change the temp sensor like you showed.
THANKS FOR SHOWING HOW TO TEST!!!
You bet 🙂
Five star presentation thank you.
Glad there's some beer in the door of the fridge. I need one after finding out there was no battery in my new multi meter!
I don't have hot glue, so I'll use a bit of super glue.
Just found your video my mini fridge has a sensor and a cover kept shutting off yet I took the cover off now it's working. Does that mean it's going out or the cover was messing with the sensor
Very good video. Nice clean job. Thanks.
Hello John. I have tested my thermistor and it reads 17.84 kilo ohm's. What should I test next? The fan is working but lightly. Not sure if that's the culprit of the coils freezing up. Any feedback much appreciated.
I have a hisense rb372n4ac2, same problem. Should i change the sensor nearby the evaporator like you did, or another sensor in de freezer underneath on top. There also another sensor in the fridge. The fan is turning pretty and the compressor is constantly running
Thanks for sharing. It helped me to fix cooling problem with my refrigerator.
Glad it helped
very informative video. thanks a lot from the Philippines
where do you find the webpage with the instructions that you showed in the video? Where it tells you the average temperatures and readings for those.
Google.
As always John, great stuff! Thank you
Thanks :)
OMG ☹as originally suspected I think it’s my freezer evaporator thermal sensor now! Freezer temp getting colder @ -1F yesterday. I replaced the freezer side panel thermistor behind the oval plastic grille. Temperature went even lower -13F (12hrs later). Do I need to remove the evaporator to get @the 2nd freezer temp sensor? Gerr! It’s a bear to get into the evaporator freezer section. Didn’t even see the sensor on another RUclips video of replacing the condensate pan just under the evaporator. Can’t find a diagram of its exact location. GE Ziss480nxbss. Wondering if I can pull it out through the rubber plug (easily accesed) of wires into the evaporator compartment though the wall separating the evaporator and the compressor up top? In your video your sensor came through the back wall through a rubber plug of wires (although your sensor sat in a specific hole near the evaporator). My rubber plug of wires is easily accessed at the top compressor housing compartment. Help please please🙏🏻 need an exact location of my freezer sensor.
What was the resistance written on the wire of the old thermistor? What was the value written on the new one (at room temp 25C)? I would assume that it has to match? The old one seemed to work (a few k ohms and changed when cooled). How many thermistors are in a normal fridge (refrigerator plus freezer (LG three door)?
There were/are no resistance values on the wires/thermistors, you have to get that info online as I show in the video @ time index: 4:49. Your specific model might also indicate the values on the schematic diagram which is a pamphlet either on the back of the fridge or in a pouch beside the main board (at least on GE) no idea what LG offers. A few K ohms out from nominal is most certainly enough to cause issues. Test values have to be pretty much what the manufacture call for, in this case 6.2K at 68F and 16.3K at freezing, just as shown and indicated in that GE online test manual. Other brands may have different diagnostic test methodology however so don't just presume all are the same.
All depends on the design of the refrigerator as to how many thermistors are used. Two evap units like this one will generally have 4 (one on each evap, and one for each cooling compartment). That information is shown on the schematic diagram for the specific make and model or look it up online.
Wow, as many as 4. I was wondering if there was even one in the Ice maker area (5?, left side of top refrigerator section). So far it has been confusing at best to locate good, non-conflicting LG data for my model (LFX31925ST /08 ASTCNA8). Mine suffers from the refrigerator section getting too cold, so that is likely where the defective part is (if i can only find it). I think i will pull it out and see what is on the back (one line diagram).@@Rchelicopterfun
Thanks for this excellent video!
Very impressive n informative
Link for your little soldiering iron? Please
Hi Ben, Link is in the description, but here it is if you missed it: amzn.to/3rlreV4
@@Rchelicopterfun My apology if it was there! My 66-year-old eyes are starting to miss stuff! Thanks again for this great RUclips. John
This is a really good video
6:36 Can I use this same sensor in a digital temperature controller? or is it different?
Very nice video, well explained, good use adhesive heat shrink, thank you.
Thanks - glad you found it useful.
Thank you John for your reply to my question.
Hey John. I replaced my freezer sensor because it was faulty. Now the freezer is only managing to get to minus 11 degrees centigrade maximum (despite the setting set to minus 21 on the dial). I took the sensor out again and checked the resistance and at zero degrees water temperature, it read 28.8 kilo ohms and not as your video suggested 16.3. Would you say the replacement sensor is wrong (despite part number was WR55X10025) or even faulty? By the way, the sensor I replaced had a reading of 14.6 kilo ohms at zero degree - interesting!
Sounds like a bad thermistor/temp sensor if you checked it at 0C and it's reading 28.8k ohms. The control board would be seeing that 28.8K value as a fairly cold reading (likely around -21c) lol. And that is why it's not getting any colder than -11. When diagnosing temp sensors like this if you first want to test a "bad sensor hypothesis", I have in the past substituted the thermistor with a resistor to determine if it's a sensor or the control board. If you were to put a 15K resistor in for example (so the control board is thinking the freezer temp is around 0C, and then the freezer started getting nice and cold, you know the sensor is faulty and the control board is working. If on the other hand, the freezer doesn't get any colder, then it's likely a control board or something else. You never said what the initial problem was however, so I'm just going by the few facts that have been presented. I'm also not an appliance repair technician, my technical training is automotive, but electrical fault tracing is fairly universal. 🙂
Are all sensors have the range or each manufacture has its own specification?
Some will be the same, others different. Always best to check the manual for your specific model for confirmation .
Wow John, I have almost the same exact fridge PSS26MSTD. Great tutorial. My issue is the freezer builds up frost every week or two and I have to let it melt and plug fridge back in. I heard the amazon heaters are horrible so I was going to buy a GE heater. Wondering if the Amazon Thermostats and Temp sensors are decent. I guess my only concern is if I should replace all 3 parts considering I have to pay out of pocket. No help from landlord. I guess I’m going to open the freezer panel and test the Temp sensor first. Any suggestions, like if the sensor is bad, are the other 2 parts bad as well? Any ideas would be highly appreciated as I have been unplugging fridge for about 3 months because too expensive to get a repair man! They want like $600. All 3 parts from Ge are $180, but the heater alone is $105. So if I don’t have to replace heater, it would be great.
Great Video btw John. Very clear instructions on how to test. I was wondering, if I put a multimeter on the heater and there is continuity, does that mean it’s good? Just curious on how to check if it’s bad. This has been an ongoing problem. I’ll update when I check the temp sensor first. Sry for the long message! Take care.
Sorry, no idea on the heater as I've never done one. If I had a suspect defrost heater, I would be researching the full diagnostic fault tracing procedure using Google and/or the repair forums. Could be several things I would think ranging from the temp senor to the heater relay to the heater itself, or worse case, the control board.
@@Rchelicopterfun yea, hoping it’s not the board! Thx John. I’ll be checking sensor later today.
Thanks I will try with my refrigerator.
At what resistance of thermistor?,or temperature of freezer does the defrost mode start
No idea.
Does it matter which way round you connect the sensor wires?
Nope.
Hi john. Where can we buy adhesive heat shrinker? Thanks
Look online is the best suggestion.
I'm looking at a used fridge for sale and they said the issue is "the back of the freezer coils will freeze up . probably needs a new defrost temperature control button or whatever it's called".
Could this be the issue? Or what could it be?
No idea.
Great video
Thanks for the visit
Thanks man!❤
My fridge ( (LG GBB60SWFZS) always freeze, a lot. After 1 week all the bottom freezes and needs to be thawed again, the heating element MEE62606001 does not turn on.
After thawing, it freezes again and never thaws
I measured the sensor (6500JB1001N) at room temperature was 5K ohms (5000 ohms)
When completely frozen after a day, the sensor shows 9K ohms (~ 8500 ohms)
where I can get my sensor (6500JB1001N) data sheet ????????? Maybe is normal for this sensor 8,5K ohms in freeze ?????? THANK YOU
Thanks. Going to try this.
How can we start the fridge continuously in case it takes long time to get the new sensor?
You can't run it continuously or it will ice up the evaporator exactly as shown in this example.
Which raytek ir gun do you use?
You can see it on the name plate in the video (ST 2). Of course any IR gun or other temp measuring device can be used.
John Salt thanks! You seem to use some quality tools so don’t mind trying it
Hi, John I snipped my thermistor aka temperature sensor aka defrost sensor...I looked up everything for Kenmore Model: 59672003011 and there’s not shit about a replacement, not even Sears could understand why it’s missing from there parts replacement, they only show thermistor cover for sale, so bizarre. Anyway a tip I read online most thermistors are the same, but I bought a whirlpool one that looks identical, is that safe to say? I was told certain black colored bottoms that are round in shape from early years are prone to fail. Mines white with black flat bottom so fingers crossed, it has lasted years before so..it’s giving no reading, so junk now. But I had to clip mine cause leads vanish behind wall, is shrink seal good enough or should I try and find where the hell these leads go too? New piece has long leads. I’m scared it’ll short. Electrical tape big no no, right? Thanks
@Chadd Steinberg, I'm not an appliance repair technician, so I don't know what brands use what sensors, if they are all the same, or have different resistive values. All you can do is try it and see if it works or call in a tech to do the repair. If you really wanted to know if the resistance value of the new one you got is the same as what was in there before would be to check another one of the temp sensors in your fridge to see what its resistive characteristics are and if they compare to the new one at various temperatures.
The standard practice to replace these things is exactly how I show in the video because the wiring going through the inner fridge cabinet to the mother board on the exterior is both well sealed at the exit location and likely also running through insulating foam making it next to impossible to pull out. Cut the wiring, and solder the new sensor into position using an environmentally SEALED insulation method such as environmental heat shrink like I show. Electrical tape will not keep moisture from migrating into the wiring.
@@Rchelicopterfun Oh, I assumed you did a lot of appliance repairs. Thought the faulty thermistor tip was something that could help or you’d heard about. None the less your video was very informative, I’ll attempt it the way you had. My new thermistor came with caps to clench around the soldiered wire, just debating whether to trust them or heat shrink your way..minor decisions that could cause a short, no wonder I’m a procrastinator 😅 by the way If you ever have to melt ice again, grab a handheld heat gun, cut the time down tremendously compared to hair blower. I’ll have to checkout your other content. Thanks for getting back in timely manner John 👍🏻
@Chadd Steinberg - I'm actually an automotive tech by trade and have a background in electronics as well. I have repaired a lot of appliances & home electronics over the decades, but that of course is no substitute for full time appliance field repair experience where you get a very good idea of what brand components are universal or proprietary. For specifics like that, I rely on Google search 🙂.
Not sure I would want to use a heat gun on a refrigerator evaporator coil. That kind of heat could send refrigerant system pressures well beyond their design tolerance I would think. I was actually somewhat nervous even using the hair dryer but figured it would be fairly safe considering the defrost cycle would heat the evap coils up about the same amount. I also didn't want to melt the plastic right behind the evap or the wiring.
Cold as a gold diggers heart ctfu... good one brotha I have to reuse that!
Sir what is the difference between defrost sensor and tempereture sensor...another ....what is sensor-F...is sensor-f is temepreture sensor ..plz guide ..
What is the value of the resistance Ohms..
on the thermistor before it is put into ice water?
That is totally dependent on ambient temp, thus the reason it's checked in ice water at 0C.
Thanks
Thanks for watching 🙂👍
my ge has 1 wire on the sensor
great video! very poorly designed refrigerator. mine grows mold in cavities and drawers
I've heard injecting hydroxychloroquine & bleach into the bowels of the refrigerator will solve that issue - lol. 😄
Wait A Minute!!! Why Do You Sound Like AvE's DewClaw? Are YOu Sure An ElecChicken Didn't Mess With The Board?
Defrost heater
"Defrost heater" Is that a question?
wait....NO!!! you cut wires to a part ( just after you defrosted the coils with a hair dryer) without even attemping to remove the tape or whatever from the next connecting point. Yes you mention that it looks like a past repair fix that but doesn't mean you should just cut the wires!!! What if that isn't the problem??? how may people following this video has cut those wires and now need to replace that part AND the part that is broken?!?!?!??!! Why didn't you undo the tape and follow it back to the next "piece"????
YES! That is not easy to remove tape partner, it's adhesive lined environmental heat-shrink permanently bonded to the wiring. Impossible to remove - it has to be cut out. Also, you can't test a thermocouple in circuit - it would give an incorrect resistance reading - it has to be removed from circuit for testing. If the thermocouple tested out ok after removing it, then you simply splice it back in; but it's so inexpensive & a common mode of failure, I would have replaced it regardless.
This is electronics diagnostics 101. Start at the easy, most likely, and least expensive components and work your way through the circuit. Training & experience vs. ignorant RUclips comments in other words.
Why not just replace the thermistors with new ones instead of fooling with testing?
Simple, testing the component is the only way to know if that is the real problem or not. Tossing parts at things in hope it might fix the problem wastes both time and money. Especially on something simple like a thermistor that is so easy to test and only takes a couple minutes. The question is why wouldn't you test it.
@@Rchelicopterfun I assume you would already have purchased new thermistors before you took things apart .They are inexpensive (5-6 dollars), so why not save time and just put new ones in since you would be cutting the wires to test them anyway..?? Same situation with the defrost element which is inexpensive. If you are going to take everything apart, wouldn't it make sense to just replace these parts to see if the problem is fixed, possibly ruling out a mother board replacement ($200-400) or service call.
Yes, regardless on a low cost item like this that has to be cut out, you are going to replace it while you've got things all apart, that only makes sense. That wasn't your original comment however; you asked why test it and I took the time to explain why. A simple 2 minute test to put your mind at ease, know you found the likely issue and confidence to button everything back up.