I tested the system as I watched your vid. First two rounds was 3 rolls, third round was a PSO. It was looking much like your rolls before you ended. Fortunately, my fourth round ran 22 rolls, long after your video ended (LOL), half pressing (+/-) my winnings, but spreading across all box numbers, and pressing the 4/10 only as needed to keep the payouts the same as what the inside place bets were paying. Was great to get my place bets up to the point I was making black chips every hit. Made over $700 on that shooter in 23 rolls. Those first three rounds were scary, and it wasn't even real money! Not sure I have a strong enough heart to pull off fading one roll in a casino. 🤣 Thanks for the vid!!
Color Up commented a number of times that he "only won a buck or two..." Winning is nice but the main object is is to LOSE LESS. Walking away from the table even money is a big win.
For those of us who still have access to a $5 table, $160 across would work similarly. Inside number would pay $35, bring down to $32 across with a $3 profit
can you explain the bets for me? im still a little new in trying to figure out all the bets, the closest i can get is $140 across. Edit: sorry for spam notifications but found it. 25$ on 4,5,8,9 and $30 on 6,8. Would you just use 10 Pass 15 odds for the on number?
@@ryantavenner2324 So there are 6 box numbers, 4 through 10 excluding 7. $25 on each number would be $150, but 6 and 8 require a bet to be divisible by 6 to payout properly, so the next nice number would be $30, giving you $160 across
@@ryantavenner2324 The pass line is an optional bet if you don't plan on shooting, but $5 on the line with max odds on a 3, 4, 5x table would have a similar result, just remember to go down to single odds after the first hit
why would you ever do single odds? I bet the same way, but larger, with $100 on the 4/10, $200 on the 5/9 and $300 on the 6/8. 2 hits and down unless it is a 6 or 8 then I can pull down with one hit and go $180 across from there.
I sometimes play a similar strategy I like better than this one. After the point is established I go $440 inside. After 1 hit I regress to $110 inside. All my money is off the table, playing with house money, and have $30 profit. I just ride it out from there. I've made some nice profit off that strategy, but that PSO hurts if it happens. My buy-in covers 5 shooters. I only play more after the 5 shooters if I can cover with house money.
I think if you do this strat, after you are in playing 81 across don’t add a field and instead play a horn bet, lose 4 on non horn numbers but pays 15 and 30 when it hits, While field gets 15 on field hits but lose 15 on 5,6,7, and 8, better lose 4 on those common numbers then 15? Any thoughts guys?
i play a very similar strategy on Crapsee but wait to play the $640 until shooter has thrown 2 simultaneous box numbers after the come out. avoid the PSO and DSB, one hit and down then wait until 7 or go to 96 across. typically dont see an advantage to any further bet as 7 is likely to come in next 2-3 rolls.
I make sure I understand how they work on my desk mat first, but no, never roll them out. Every strategy I show gets one shot and one roll. The results are what they are, good bad or ugly.
I have a similar play, however I found that 2 rollers aren't enough for this. 3 to 4 rollers works best for me. However, I'm in CA where they use cards and therefore less control of the dice. I don't do a 100 across though, that's too rich for my blood. At least for now!
After first hit, instead of putting money on 4 and 10, I would make a $30 6&8, would rather win on 6&8 then push. When field hits you can then add a 4&10.
did you say what the move is if the roll goes point-point? Do you come back on the next point with the Across place bets or do you take the winnings and use that to go across? I assume the former since you'd only take back on a five for example 105...your next move if using the profit would be 81 across, plus 15 field, plus maybe 16 odds for 112 to be laid out, so at a loss for that situation, albeit a smaller investment for the coverage of all the numbers
I feel like this system would be worth the risk if when you hit the 4/10 on the first roll you kept all the profit on that number so it’s min across but heavy on the 4/10 press 3 times for lift off then collect press collect press until 7
You could make a small fortune with this system.....if you start with a large fortune. Many of these bets have a huge house advantage. The best way to have a chance of winning at craps is to find a casino who allows the highest pass line odds and put the min on pass line and take max odds. Add come bets with max odds when winning and reduce bets if the table cools.
Youve suggested a Great low house edge way to play, but it still loses to casino. No matter what bets you make, the dice have to roll in your favor in order to win.
With craps it’s so hard to rate. A good box would give you credit for the $540 across, somehow, but most likely they just put you in for avg bet of $105, $15 on all the numbers plus the field.
@@ColorUp I know at GSR they often rate me much lower than they do at the Peppermill. I use a similar strategy and play for hours at the Peppermill. Most times I leave with over $100 in comps from the table. At the GSR, I am lucky to get $25-35 per session.
Too risky for me but I like the idea! Off topic, I'm headed up to Sacramento to the Hard Rock Casino, they unfortunately only have Card Craps because it's california. Is there anything I should expect? Is there a certain or better way to play card craps?
For just a LITTLE bit more extra money per shooter - $610 - I PREFER to use the Iron-Cross after the come-out roll because this way I will have EVERY number covered - EXCEPT the obvious one we DON'T want - so I don't miss out on the 2,3,11 and 12, in case any of those numbers are rolled after the come-out, like the 11 that was rolled in this video after the FIRST point was established so I don't have to get EXTREMELY nervous for that 2nd roll! So, I would have $150 on the number 5, and $180 EACH on the 6 and 8, and $100 in the Field, so I can win at LEAST $100 after that 1st roll. Then I would take it down to just $15 EACH on the numbers 5,6, and 8, so I have a GUARANTEED $55 profit and then with those numbers, I would do a collect FIRST, then PRESS, starting with the 6 or 8 FIRST for $30, then for the NEXT press, I would press the OTHER number that wasn't pressed, even if it was for example the 6 that hit 4 times, then I would press the 8 - and NOT the 6 again for $60 - to $30 and then for the NEXT press, I would press the 5 to $25, and then once that is set up, I would put $15 on the Field bet so I have the Iron-Cross going and then just collect ONLY for any Field number that wins, and then continue with the collect first and then press for any of the Iron-Cross numbers in the manner that I just stated! So, I would need a SBR of $6,300 for 10 chances because I would have $610 for the Iron-Cross and $15 on the Pass line and $5 for BOTH C & E and would put NO ODDS up, since there would be NO need to! However, I would ONLY use this strategy when I am shooting because I would NEVER do this with random shooters, because I do NOT TRUST RANDOM shooters!!! So, for the RANDOM shooters, I would just put $60 EACH on the 6 and 8 and HOPE for 1 hit, so I can take it down to $15 EACH on the 6 and 8, which will GUARANTEE me a profit of $40 and just do the collect FIRST THEN press strategy for FIRST the 6 and 8, and then expand to the number 5 on the NEXT press so I can set up the Iron-Cross, and then continue with the collect FIRST then press ONLY for the Iron-Cross numbers!
I kinda like it yet you’re risking 1 rolls hopefully get a box number then regress which is smart if I had the money that’s what I’d do, it’s scary for a 7 right after the point but only needing 1 hit to play with casino money is good
This seems overly complicated to me. Why not just bet $640 across (working) on the come out and then take the profits and bet the $96 across or $110 inside? Your odds of rolling 7 on the first roll are the same as they are rolling it on the second roll and we're not doing anything to hedge those bets by not playing the come out. If you're willing to risk that much, you might as well make that money ASAP.
Jeremy, I know you're just playing the strategy sent to you, but I can't grasp why anyone would hedge a $15 pass line bet and then risk $600 on the next roll.
So. Why would you not do a 20 dollar horn on your first roll after the five ? You rolled an 11 and said it doesn’t affect us - yes it does - you wasted a roll … you would have won 60 on the 11 and if you rolled a number the winnings of at least 140 (6,8,9) or hitting the 4 and 10 more than cover it 😊😊
If this means "profit from second roll and beyond" but "11 doesn't affect us" bet the 6 for $120. Then nothing affects you but the 7 and you are the same profit. A true "profit from second roll" is 105 field, 180 on the 6/8 and 150 on the 5. Any roll wins 105, 2/12 wins double. Initial investment is $615 and on the chance you roll 2/12 on roll #1 you're $192 across; otherwise $96 across
@@ColorUp proper bankroll is money you throw away like its dead, if losing it all would hurt you, its too much money to risk. Buy in for $60 to $100 and see if you can walk out with $10K.
You’re going to need enough money to stay in the game a little while to withstand the ups and downs, and hopefully catch a big roll. If you want to go in with $60 and leave 5 minutes later, that’s fine…if you live near a casino. For most people I think it’s a planned trip for entertainment and a game plan that may only last 2 rolls with $60 is not going to work.
@@duewhit310 that’s fine. I agree having visions of beating the game no matter how much you risk is foolish. It’s a game for entertainment, risk what you can afford, “bankroll” or bring what you are willing to lose.
Great if you got about 10k and u wanna get out with a few hundred to pay for your steak dinner and drinks. Not so great if you buy in for a grand and the first shooter goes PSO. 😆
I tested the system as I watched your vid. First two rounds was 3 rolls, third round was a PSO. It was looking much like your rolls before you ended. Fortunately, my fourth round ran 22 rolls, long after your video ended (LOL), half pressing (+/-) my winnings, but spreading across all box numbers, and pressing the 4/10 only as needed to keep the payouts the same as what the inside place bets were paying. Was great to get my place bets up to the point I was making black chips every hit. Made over $700 on that shooter in 23 rolls. Those first three rounds were scary, and it wasn't even real money! Not sure I have a strong enough heart to pull off fading one roll in a casino. 🤣 Thanks for the vid!!
I have been very successful with the iron cross. Just had the dice for 30 min the other day. It was lovely.
30 minutes will make money unless u are on the dont pass.
@@duewhit310 hit my hard 8 6 times! People loved me.
The Iron-Cross RULES!!!!!
Color Up commented a number of times that he "only won a buck or two..." Winning is nice but the main object is is to LOSE LESS.
Walking away from the table even money is a big win.
For those of us who still have access to a $5 table, $160 across would work similarly. Inside number would pay $35, bring down to $32 across with a $3 profit
can you explain the bets for me? im still a little new in trying to figure out all the bets, the closest i can get is $140 across.
Edit: sorry for spam notifications but found it. 25$ on 4,5,8,9 and $30 on 6,8. Would you just use 10 Pass 15 odds for the on number?
Check out my free beginner course www.colorup.club
@@ryantavenner2324 So there are 6 box numbers, 4 through 10 excluding 7. $25 on each number would be $150, but 6 and 8 require a bet to be divisible by 6 to payout properly, so the next nice number would be $30, giving you $160 across
@@ryantavenner2324 The pass line is an optional bet if you don't plan on shooting, but $5 on the line with max odds on a 3, 4, 5x table would have a similar result, just remember to go down to single odds after the first hit
THIS ^
why would you ever do single odds? I bet the same way, but larger, with $100 on the 4/10, $200 on the 5/9 and $300 on the 6/8. 2 hits and down unless it is a 6 or 8 then I can pull down with one hit and go $180 across from there.
At about 12:12 you pay the player out $19 to go $81 across, but you only needed $78 across because the 8 is the point.
Thanks, good catch
I sometimes play a similar strategy I like better than this one. After the point is established I go $440 inside. After 1 hit I regress to $110 inside. All my money is off the table, playing with house money, and have $30 profit. I just ride it out from there. I've made some nice profit off that strategy, but that PSO hurts if it happens. My buy-in covers 5 shooters. I only play more after the 5 shooters if I can cover with house money.
I think if you do this strat, after you are in playing 81 across don’t add a field and instead play a horn bet, lose 4 on non horn numbers but pays 15 and 30 when it hits, While field gets 15 on field hits but lose 15 on 5,6,7, and 8, better lose 4 on those common numbers then 15? Any thoughts guys?
i play a very similar strategy on Crapsee but wait to play the $640 until shooter has thrown 2 simultaneous box numbers after the come out. avoid the PSO and DSB, one hit and down then wait until 7 or go to 96 across. typically dont see an advantage to any further bet as 7 is likely to come in next 2-3 rolls.
How do you avoid the PNNSO?
Hey Jeremy. How about you use a similar type system, where you pull all bets down after X number of rolls, or X amount of profit/hits.
Appreciate your content! With the dice advice strategies do you play them out prior to uploading the video?
I make sure I understand how they work on my desk mat first, but no, never roll them out. Every strategy I show gets one shot and one roll. The results are what they are, good bad or ugly.
This is a version of the squeeze play from @casinoquest
I have a similar play, however I found that 2 rollers aren't enough for this. 3 to 4 rollers works best for me. However, I'm in CA where they use cards and therefore less control of the dice. I don't do a 100 across though, that's too rich for my blood. At least for now!
I like squeeze systems, but I'd stay out of the field. I've got enough going on to keep track of
Nice,,,fun but man you know its going to happen were the bad number is going to come back to back. That would hurt. Fun video Jeremy,, thanks
Murphy’s law
After first hit, instead of putting money on 4 and 10, I would make a $30 6&8, would rather win on 6&8 then push. When field hits you can then add a 4&10.
The $3 bet on the craps numbers is funny.
Kinda when next step is $500 🤔
My thoughts exactly, I don't have a problem risking the $600 but the $3 craps bet bothers me - gamblers are strange.
After your first hit, when you regress, do you get your vig returned on the 4/10, if you had to pay the vig up front?
Yes, you'll always get your vig back when you take the bet down.
Gonna hit up a $5 table tonight, I could do this on a smaller scale. Maybe $160 across :)
did you say what the move is if the roll goes point-point? Do you come back on the next point with the Across place bets or do you take the winnings and use that to go across? I assume the former since you'd only take back on a five for example 105...your next move if using the profit would be 81 across, plus 15 field, plus maybe 16 odds for 112 to be laid out, so at a loss for that situation, albeit a smaller investment for the coverage of all the numbers
What would be the bets on a $5 and $10 table ?
I feel like this system would be worth the risk if when you hit the 4/10 on the first roll you kept all the profit on that number so it’s min across but heavy on the 4/10 press 3 times for lift off then collect press collect press until 7
I would just do $640 across.
You could make a small fortune with this system.....if you start with a large fortune. Many of these bets have a huge house advantage. The best way to have a chance of winning at craps is to find a casino who allows the highest pass line odds and put the min on pass line and take max odds. Add come bets with max odds when winning and reduce bets if the table cools.
Youve suggested a Great low house edge way to play, but it still loses to casino. No matter what bets you make, the dice have to roll in your favor in order to win.
I wonder how that would look for comps, and what your rating would be. That would be hard to point out to the pitboss for comps.
With craps it’s so hard to rate. A good box would give you credit for the $540 across, somehow, but most likely they just put you in for avg bet of $105, $15 on all the numbers plus the field.
@@ColorUp I know at GSR they often rate me much lower than they do at the Peppermill. I use a similar strategy and play for hours at the Peppermill. Most times I leave with over $100 in comps from the table. At the GSR, I am lucky to get $25-35 per session.
@@awolfe14 oh man, that doesn't sound good. Definitely play where they rate you bettter.
Atlantis is really generous with their comps compared to other Reno casinos
@@normanng3930 nice
Thats a strategy not for the faint of heart. That stressed me out just watching it.
Too risky for me but I like the idea!
Off topic, I'm headed up to Sacramento to the Hard Rock Casino, they unfortunately only have Card Craps because it's california. Is there anything I should expect? Is there a certain or better way to play card craps?
Nope, it plays the same, you just have to wait for cards to see what number “rolled”
Around the 12:30 mark in the video, you only gave 19 in change, should have been 22 when your are on a 6 or 8 for the point @Color Up
Anyone else get nervous watching the first live roll lol
Seems like a great strategy but wouldn’t this be really annoying for the casino employees to keep taking down and building up over and over again?
For just a LITTLE bit more extra money per shooter - $610 - I PREFER to use the Iron-Cross after the come-out roll because this way I will have EVERY number covered - EXCEPT the obvious one we DON'T want - so I don't miss out on the 2,3,11 and 12, in case any of those numbers are rolled after the come-out, like the 11 that was rolled in this video after the FIRST point was established so I don't have to get EXTREMELY nervous for that 2nd roll!
So, I would have $150 on the number 5, and $180 EACH on the 6 and 8, and $100 in the Field, so I can win at LEAST $100 after that 1st roll. Then I would take it down to just $15 EACH on the numbers 5,6, and 8, so I have a GUARANTEED $55 profit and then with those numbers, I would do a collect FIRST, then PRESS, starting with the 6 or 8 FIRST for $30, then for the NEXT press, I would press the OTHER number that wasn't pressed, even if it was for example the 6 that hit 4 times, then I would press the 8 - and NOT the 6 again for $60 - to $30 and then for the NEXT press, I would press the 5 to $25, and then once that is set up, I would put $15 on the Field bet so I have the Iron-Cross going and then just collect ONLY for any Field number that wins, and then continue with the collect first and then press for any of the Iron-Cross numbers in the manner that I just stated!
So, I would need a SBR of $6,300 for 10 chances because I would have $610 for the Iron-Cross and $15 on the Pass line and $5 for BOTH C & E and would put NO ODDS up, since there would be NO need to!
However, I would ONLY use this strategy when I am shooting because I would NEVER do this with random shooters, because I do NOT TRUST RANDOM shooters!!!
So, for the RANDOM shooters, I would just put $60 EACH on the 6 and 8 and HOPE for 1 hit, so I can take it down to $15 EACH on the 6 and 8, which will GUARANTEE me a profit of $40 and just do the collect FIRST THEN press strategy for FIRST the 6 and 8, and then expand to the number 5 on the NEXT press so I can set up the Iron-Cross, and then continue with the collect FIRST then press ONLY for the Iron-Cross numbers!
How would this strategy work on a $25 table
If you are going to put that much at risk might as well play the moonbow
very cool strategy!
I kinda like it yet you’re risking 1 rolls hopefully get a box number then regress which is smart if I had the money that’s what I’d do, it’s scary for a 7 right after the point but only needing 1 hit to play with casino money is good
Guarantee I would point 7 three times in a row
ha, I hear ya
This seems overly complicated to me. Why not just bet $640 across (working) on the come out and then take the profits and bet the $96 across or $110 inside? Your odds of rolling 7 on the first roll are the same as they are rolling it on the second roll and we're not doing anything to hedge those bets by not playing the come out. If you're willing to risk that much, you might as well make that money ASAP.
I totally agree. Why not start out with the place bets working on the come out roll…
Jeremy, I know you're just playing the strategy sent to you, but I can't grasp why anyone would hedge a $15 pass line bet and then risk $600 on the next roll.
🤷♂️ guess hate to lose that first roll.
So. Why would you not do a 20 dollar horn on your first roll after the five ? You rolled an 11 and said it doesn’t affect us - yes it does - you wasted a roll … you would have won 60 on the 11 and if you rolled a number the winnings of at least 140 (6,8,9) or hitting the 4 and 10 more than cover it 😊😊
4 9 10 are covered so couldnt you just do a horn bet instead of the field?
If this means "profit from second roll and beyond" but "11 doesn't affect us" bet the 6 for $120. Then nothing affects you but the 7 and you are the same profit.
A true "profit from second roll" is 105 field, 180 on the 6/8 and 150 on the 5. Any roll wins 105, 2/12 wins double. Initial investment is $615 and on the chance you roll 2/12 on roll #1 you're $192 across; otherwise $96 across
its only 78 across when a 6 or 8 is the point, so you shorted the player 3 bucks
3
I hope he puts 5 across for the dealers for all that
Playing like that you will endure a rash of oneRoll 7outs that will emotionally rip you apart just as surely as it will rip apart your wallet.
It will happen eventually, if your afraid of that or not bankrolled properly you shouldn’t play this way for sure
@@ColorUp proper bankroll is money you throw away like its dead, if losing it all would hurt you, its too much money to risk. Buy in for $60 to $100 and see if you can walk out with $10K.
You’re going to need enough money to stay in the game a little while to withstand the ups and downs, and hopefully catch a big roll. If you want to go in with $60 and leave 5 minutes later, that’s fine…if you live near a casino. For most people I think it’s a planned trip for entertainment and a game plan that may only last 2 rolls with $60 is not going to work.
@@ColorUp after compiling enough experience buying in for $500 to $1800, believe me, all this game is worth is $60 to $100.
@@duewhit310 that’s fine. I agree having visions of beating the game no matter how much you risk is foolish. It’s a game for entertainment, risk what you can afford, “bankroll” or bring what you are willing to lose.
Instead of doing a crap check just put a $1 on each crap number and get paid more
Should call it adrenaline rush strategy 😂
Great if you got about 10k and u wanna get out with a few hundred to pay for your steak dinner and drinks.
Not so great if you buy in for a grand and the first shooter goes PSO. 😆
That's absolutely insane, and the field bet is just bleeding money such a worthless bet. Just play $180 across and enjoy the game
I like the idea of dropping down to $110 inside, instead of 81 across. Stay out of the field. Would create a little more opportunity to win money.
First in line to make monies lol 🤑🤑
Not for nothing, but if you are betting $600, are you really concerned about the $15 on the come out? Why even worry about the any craps bet?
that's a lot up front lol
I hit an down 🤷♂️
I love your strategies but it’s not practical with the dealers
One regression, not really a big deal for dealers
@ajaybhan2011 Why do you think it would not be practical for the dealers
Dealers are paid to deal, if they don’t like that they should find another line of work.
I wasn't aware our strategies should be practical for the dealers. 😂