Next time you use a 2 part epoxy, mix it inside the corner of a small zip loc sandwich baggie, then cut the corner off with scissors and push it out the corner like cake icing. You'll use less product, giving you multiple uses per tube and it's a lot easier to work with. Good video as always!
Right did a similar fix on a corolla rad. The leak was coming from between the fins. I packed epoxy both sides of the fins. Used a hose from a vacuum to suck some negative pressure through the top hole while covering the bottom hole . waited 24 hrs, slapped it back on. Still working and that was 15 years ago.
Heat up the substrate and then let the substrate melt the rod. That way, it will bond to the substrate. If you heat the rod directly on a substrate that is cooler than the rod, you just leave melted, unbonded rod boogers on the substrate. Oh, and clean stainless steel only brush to clean for aluminum soldering. Give it a shot the next time an “opportunity” arises. Enjoy the videos.
Electrical solder does not bond to aluminum I have gotten some Flux that is supposed to make it work I don't think I tried it yet but there are definitely things that do work
I believe your issue with welding was that you didn't get the radiator material in the area you were welding up to temp in order to melt. Welding requires melting the metal, not just the stick. A weld ends up being stronger usually than the original material around it because of the quick melt and cooling process.
i fixed a crack in my BMW 330ci radiator with JB Weld - took a few shots but I now have a fantastic formula I recommend: 1. Get your engine warm and examine where the leak is. 2. Release the pressure and drain the coolant while it is still warm/mildly hot, but not too hot that when you seal the cooling system, it isn't blowing steam or air out of the hole you're trying to fix. 3. Once it isn't spitting but still warm - THEN apply the JB Weld and leave it for a few hours. Applyig it while the tank is still hot causes the glue to be drawn into the hole, caused by the internal vacuum when the hot air cools and returns from its exanded state. Exactly the same as when you fill an airtight tupperware with hot food and seal the lid while your food is still hot. By the time it's closed there's a vacuum inside ;)
When your brazing Steel you have to get the steel hot enough to Glow red and basically have the brazing rod in a nearby vicinity so it's hot but not hot enough to melt. Then you basically melt the brazing rod into the steel. I think that principal with aluminum is going to be very very difficult with aluminum aluminum because you're going to have a really hard time seeing it get hot. I would suggest something that would melt at a much lower temperature perhaps acid core Plumbing solder with lots of extra flux. I remember also that you need to have a special wire brush for aluminum only because if you use a wire brush that was used on something else it will actually contaminate the aluminum badly enough to give you issues
The reason the solder didnt hold was because you got the rod hot and melted, but the radiator wasn't hot enough. Get the radiator hot to where the rod melts without direct heat and it'll work.
Hi Josh, I've fixed similar radiators with acid core solder. Always worked for me. I'm like you I always try to fix things myself. I research stuff too. Normally You Tube is the best way to start your search. I learn a lot from your channel which is why I subscribed. You can also get flux core solder which I believe is what you use on copper water lines.
I watched a news story where farmers are hacking the John Deere software so they can fix their tractors instead of paying big $$$ for repairs at the dealer. Tractors are supposed to be made so they can be easily fixed in the field..not having to be hauled to a dealer.
There is a lawsuit pertaining to that in progress... ALL tractor companies, not just John Deere, are being sued due to this.. When it costs $3500 just to HAUL a machine to a dealer because a farmer cannot even look up a code or fix a small broken wire, it is a huge problem.. These companies are ripping off farmers big time...
JD was lobbying congress to pass laws making it illegal to repair your own equipment. I bought a salvaged tractor that was supposedly flooded. Got a good deal, purged the fuel, lubricant and hydraulic systems. Fired right up. Then it was implements, proprietary issues! Found a local company manufacturing implements "comparable" with JD. JD has tried and failed to shut the locals guys down claiming intellectual ownership, the judge disagreed.
@@michaeldubya What's the current status, 5 years later since your comment, of that local company making JD compatible implements? My 2 bits: All of the lobbying that has lit businesses get consolidated into the handful of corporations that run everything just shows that government power creates corporate power. Shrink the one to shrink the other. Whether it's unfixable mechanical equipment like tractors or cars, unrepairable electronics, "terminator" seeds: bunch of POS corps using regulatory capture against the public. Any hand wringing about "Big Govt gonna push it too far one of these days!" Seems pretty dang limp-rested from my view if people are supporting parties and candidates that are all for letting corporations run them over. The only folks in DC that have any teeth against JD and other companies happen to also be the folks in DC consistently pushing for less government. Shrink the one to shrink the other. That's how this whole thing was meant to be from the get-go.
Hey. When you braze with aluminium you have to heat what is being brazed up (the radiator) and use that heat to melt the aluminium rod otherwise it will fail as yours did because you used the torch to melt the aluminium and it then went onto a colder surface being the radiator. If the radiator had have been heated to the temperature necessary to melt the rod it would have bonded properly.
Just like with soldering copper plumbing pipes, heating the material to be brazed is the way to go - not the actual rod. Flux coated rods may have helped, too, but I think application of enough heat to the radiator and some practice* would've helped you. Meh - at least you're cutting grass now right? Hope your repair holds up! *I once repaired some small rips in my truck bed with brass (bronze?) brazing rods and MAPP gas. Took me four or five whole rods to learn how to do it right, but I finally got it. Isn't something you just pick up and do right first shot.
Plzzzz tell me you're single because any man that can admit AND video his mistake/failure (plan A) is the MAN for me. Awesome!!! Oh and thank you for helping me hopefully fix a my issue today!♥️
You almost got it my friend with the alumirod. You need to get the core hotter. Dont put the heat on the rod. You want to heat the core and let the alumirod suck into the heated area. On a small section that pretty hard. I think if you would have left the heat on there a little longer after you got the glob of alumirod it would have worked. The alumirod actually melts at a lower melting point than actual aluminum. I know when the tiny fins started to melt/worp it might have made you a little guns shy. But in the end fixed is fixed. Great Job!!! I think I would have put blue loctite on but thats just me. God Bless
My thoughts exactly. I would have really heated the core up before adding the ALum rod. It's like copper pipes. Heat up the pipes first, then it'll suck the silver solder right into the joint. PROVIDED the inside of the pipe is dry. If it's just built up steam/moisture, it ain't never gonna seal.
believe it or not, this is still holding! However....on a motorcycle, I'd buy a new one. You don't wanna be 50 miles from home and have a problem....I'm always home with the zero turn
Good job. Need the metal in a pool or molten state before adding filler, rod. It’s not easy. You had a molten rod sitting on a cool surface, sort of a cold lap. I like to think of it like having two cups of water then pouring both into a basin, they become 1 lot of water like a weld making a strong bond. God job again
Just a couple of helpful hints from a small engine service tech, when starting your machine try full choke and maybe a quarter throttle, this would most likely keep it from over fueling and backfireing (also I think your valves need a little adjustment) I also noticed you shut the engine off at full throttle. Always idle any engine down before shutdown, this will eliminate kick back of the engine and possibly shearing the flywheel key. That radiator is most likely the same one as the JD rider you got from your uncle, worth a look.
Hi, I know you have this job fixed already. I was a machinist and gear cutter for many years. Back in the day probably 20 or so years ago, perhaps a bit more i remember when aluminum solder first came count and we picked some up to fix a few little jobs before we got picked up a TIG welder. We actually had someone teach us how to use this kind of solder. Just wanted to pass some things on that we were taught by the mfg of the particular product we used. I see someone mentioned the stainless steel brush, the iron in a steel brush does contaminate your surface. No flux, back to the contamination. The biggest help we had was we were shown that practice was the best medicine for aluminum soldering was to practice on a soda pop can. It’s thin,and you can get the feel of how hot and the make it so that the solder to flow onto the parent metal filling in the holes instead of globing it on as you did and so did we in the beginning. Clean the part off with the stainless brush, spray with your brake clean or starting fluid, brush it again, and solder right away. You will have to keep using your brush because aluminum will oxide right away again so little at a time. Hope this helps. Love your site, we only discovered it a sort time ago, but have enjoyed the new videos, and going thru the older ones. I grew up on a ranch and we are looking to find a piece of property and want to get back to the more simple life and away from the big city. Thanks again and keep up the good work, brings back fond memories :)
Next time clean the aluminum even better, you may need flux. Once you get the little globs on the hole continue heating it until it flows. Watch some vids on brazing aluminum ac coils. Keep up the great vids!
I would strongly recommend NOT using brake cleaner, and instead use carb cleaner. If you touch off any residual brake cleaner, it will create phosgene gas which can seriously injure or kill.
As an aside my brother and I have been working on a Scag Magnum 3 mower. Every little piece you need is at least $70. The muffler.. $320!!!, haven't priced a radiator for it but a single pulley was $70, they're so expensive because usually these are used by commercial entities with deep pockets.
For cheap? No unless you can find the part you need on eBay. I got lucky and scored a replacement brand new fan (was a kubota part not a Scag part) on ebay for cheap. For everything else we ordered from Scag OEM Parts. AKA Shank's Lawn Equipment. They were able to get us that pulley we needed. Which was a one-off part only made for the Magnum 3. (which is a 20 year old design). I imagine for a Turf Tiger, or any of their newer designs the parts are more easily had and are likely in stock. My advise is to not only get the part number off of the manual for your mower but make a close visual inspection of the part as well. They're pretty good about having pictures on their website.
for the ones that have plastic tanks take a oil bottle caps the ring on the bottom of the cap can be used with the torch you were using to fix cracks in the tank just melt it in the crack had some show me that on a car i had last as long as i had car
Love the enthusiasm on wanting to do it on your own. Just a little info for the memory banks, for a quick temporary fix maybe just to help finish mowing black pepper might of worked, also there is a product called Bars stop leak for radiators, it works on small holes, also JB Weld makes a putty type material that you roll in your hands for aluminum that would work also. Never seen the epoxy for metal. Learn something new everyday. As always great video.
Great video my friend. What I like the most about it what your enthusiasm, keep it up. It’s the way to learn and put on practice new things some time young man. May God bless you and your family and farm. Keep on doing the great things. Blessings
Hi, nice video. I knew the soldering wouldn't hold, no offense. The problem was that you didn't bring the radiator core up to temperature. When soldering you want the solder to melt into the base metal. One big factor is the melting temp of each. As with anything else, they may be just different enough that the radiator coil may melt first which isn't good. Also the radiator core is thinner than the solder rod. One other thing I just thought of is, you may have been able to keep heating the solder you had on there until you saw it melt into the radiator core. Its a touchy thing to try to do. As a jeweler, it would have been best to have the small oxy/acetone torch which enables you to put the most heat to a tiny area. I soldered gold to silver and had to concentrate the heat on the silver because the heat travels through the entire piece where the gold's heat is localized. Heat up a gold and silver rod and see how long you can hold onto each. Thanks for sharing.
You could have brazed it with that aluminum rod. You just needed to heat the fin more , then touch the rod to it until it melts into the radiator fin. Then you're brazing. What you were doing was just melting rod onto the radiator which was not hot enough for for it. It should all flow together. You're also doing the epoxy wrong. What you want to do is get a large syringe and a large bore needed. Pull the plunger out of the syringe, mix up the epoxy and pour it into the syringe. Put the plunger back in the syringe, put the large bore needle on the syringe. Pump the epoxy into the hole in the radiator fin. Pump alot in so the fin is completely filled in that area and also maybe a half inch either way on the inside. You get an "A" for effort !
The first method do it almost as if you were soldering copper pipe. Aluminum cools down a lot faster though so you gotta heat up tubing, rub rod see if it melts, if not keep heating and then rub again ... Until it actually melts and stays on the tubing....gotta be done quick though after you remove flame because aluminum coold down right away.
I took out the radiator in my 07 Yaris, not that easy on compact cars, I just squeezed the tabs where the plastic meets the metal (leaked there)so far no leaks.
Proprietary parts and software is a real big problem with John Deere and other tractor makes. I saw where there is a movement in big farm states to actually legislate an end to this problem as farmers are having to pay huge sums for simple repairs. The same thing is going on to a degree with automotive repairs. Manufacturers think the consumer has bottomless pockets. Government is rarely the answer to any problem but they have set up a system to allow manufacturers to hold the consumer captive and now they need to be made to level the playing field.
What's going on with the price issue is someone has looked at the profits & decided that if the price was higher than more money would be made. This has resulted in less customer business & lower earnings which leads to someone,( office worker who receives profit based commission on top of salary ) to increase prices more & by doing so drives away customers. Need to look after the customer 1st, not make enemies.
I know this video is a bit old now, but good try on saving some cash here. I run. Radiator Shop, and aluminum braze tubes similar to that all time, but its learn skill fir sure, thin aluminum it very delicate as the brazing temp and melting temp of the material is not far between, I rather see you under heat the job and it not stick then overheat it and ruin the rad. . However if a JB weld repair fails and ends up in my shop for repair, it'll cost a bit extra as removing it is a major pain and it has to be burned off and smells horrible.
John Deere has prolly the largest parts network of any farm implement Co. therefore parts are higher, but there is usually one within a few miles of everyone. Service and Parts availability is something to consider when you need a part next day, or in some cases over the counter same day.
Yep...however $700 for a lawnmower radiator is ridiculous...in our world of e-commerce it doesn't matter where the stores are anymore...this is an outrageous proprietary John Deere rip off!
Well then... punctured a hole in rad last night while installing the cooling fan. Was going to braze ...but after seeing this, I'm sure to save mysef a lot of pissin and moanin and go with the alternative. Thanks!
You didn't get the "base metal"/ the radiator get hot enough before adding the filler wire. Try it on a soda can and practice getting it hot right before melting then add the wire.
First off: If you are going to fill holes in aluminum with aluminum rod, you are welding. The rod melted but the work did not. What you had was akin to a cold solder joint. You need the work area heated to the point of melting. Welding aluminum is a skill that requires a great deal of practice. Too much heat and you will blow a hole in your work much larger than what you were attempting to repair. Second: With the Permatex steel. Why did you break out the fins around the holes? The fins would have given the Permatex much more area to adhere to. Breaking out the fins could have cracked the coolant tubes and caused a bigger leak. Third: If those housing bolts vibrated loose once, I would definitely locktite them for a little insurance. Do hope your problem is solved. $700 for that little radiator is highway robbery!!!
I agree. The surface needed to be heated to just the right temperature so that all you have to do is dip the rod onto it and it will melt and fill the holes (like lava, in a way). Instead, he was heating the tip of the rod until it dripped onto the surface. That is why it didn't hold. The surface wasn't hot enough. It is kinda tricky. I did learn something in high school 40 years ago. Now I have to put it to use to fix my own leaky radiator. Glad he got it fixed, though.
Nice to see others around with a bit more brazing knowledge, but patching leaks in aluminum cores it not a first try recommended idea, he was lucky, for he could have easily burned through the tubes beyond repair.
Esooo,, hablando Espanol Whooo whooo! Yeiii. Thanks it help to learn more. My Jeep radiator is leaking and I love changing the parts from my car DIY. I am going back to Cuba screaming I learn Mechanic on RUclips lol.
Wow!! Thank John Deere!! That’s a total and udder joke, $600 for that! I don’t blame you one bit Josh, thanks for showing us all, this repair and filling us in on the GREAT JOHN DEERE!
No flux on your first try anhelps to use aluminum mess screen should help it seal better cause the flux and the screen will reinforce the strength of the patch
It is so funny I wound up here, as soon as I saw the John Deere in the back I knew why this video was made. Our green paint radiator for our Gator 2020a is wait for it.....$887.50. That Deer has some pretty big balls pricing a part that should cost at most $300 at close to a grand.
LOL!! Your first mistake was buying a John Deere! Secondly I was born north of Asheville in Mitchell County! John Deere probably doesn’t make the mower! John Deere = $$$$ ... great video though! I like your spirit!
I used epoxy on the plastic side of a radiator before. Sealed up great and had no further leaks for the rest of the time I owned that car. About a year. I don’t know how much longer it lasted after that.
You can always have one made or cross reference to a small car radiator before buying a $700 dollar replacement. I mean radiators are not that specific that you can't use something from another product.
if the brake cleaner you are using contains Tetrachloroethylene you should not use it for cleaning stuff you are going to heat up because it breaks down and produces phosgene gas when you heat it
At 8:15 you can see how you pushed the rod on the aluminum and you laid "chunks" on the 3 holes. If you got it a little hotter, probably 10 more seconds, I should have melted to the touch (without force) and it would have worked. Nonetheless, great video and keep on wrenching.
Hey Josh could you possibly tell me in 50 degree weather driving at night how long would it take a Toyota Camry to run hot with a hole puncture in the radiator
You could use flux core plumbers solder , Clean damage area of aluminium radiator then coat area with copper sulphate solution, Let dry apply heat and use flux cored plumbers solder, and you find you can tin and solder area of rad puncture The ATOM thick coating of copper left by drying , Copper sulphate,, and you should get a very good fix, This works on tin/lead soldering on steel sheet as well buckets pails tin baths water tanks Should work well on car rad aluminium core, Plumbers flux core solder /Copper .Sulphate crystals dissolve in to @ 30% /75% to distilled water. in a glass jar Heat gun capable of 400c heat, paint stripper gun with narrow nozzle works if not outside in wind, , Tip you must clean area and then copper sulphated in matter of sec , You must let it dry, BEFORE HEATING AND APPLYING FLUX AND SOLDER,,,, COPPER SULPHATE LEAVE A VERY FINE COPPER METAL COAT ON ITEM AS IT DRYS, that lets solder bond to base metal, NOTE JUST REMEMBER PLASTIC ITEMS CLOSE TO HEAT AREA, DONT USE THIS METHOD TO FIX IF CLOSER , THEN 5/6 INCHES TO SIDES OF RAD. HEAT GUN SPREADS HEAT FOR ALUMINUM RAD THIS WILL MELT RADS PLASTIC ENDS RUBBER/CORK SEAL,
haha whats sad is 700$ isn't even that bad to me. Working on bigger equipment is a nightmare when it comes to repairs. All dealers have some kind of monopoly on repairs to some degree. Newer equipment is really bad for this which is why all of our equipment is around a decade old. We had a leak in the radiator on our combine, and it was a complex fix with a few hoses and gaskets blown too, so my dad took it to john Deere, they "fixed" it and we were charged 5000$. We went back to cutting and about an hour later the machine was overheating again. Turns out the problem was not fixed, someone at John Deere had used a power washer to clean it and flatted all the vents on one side. so the radiator got really hot. We got the radiator rebuilt in the city for 3000 and put it back in ourselves.
the map gas idea would have worked fine if you had done it correctly. The idea is like soldering. get the rad hot enough that the rod flows without the torch on it. Blobbing it on as you did repair won't stick.
What’s up man. Glad you have such a wide range of issues on the farm you take care of your self, showing people it can be done. Keep it up bud.
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Would be nice if one knows if Al or copper? Never mentioned.
Also obvious to me that the solder was cold and globing on the radiator not sealing do insufficient heat.
Next time you use a 2 part epoxy, mix it inside the corner of a small zip loc sandwich baggie, then cut the corner off with scissors and push it out the corner like cake icing. You'll use less product, giving you multiple uses per tube and it's a lot easier to work with. Good video as always!
thank u
That's a pretty neat idea but generally I feel like I'm just doing a little bit that I'll be wasting most of it
Right did a similar fix on a corolla rad. The leak was coming from between the fins. I packed epoxy both sides of the fins. Used a hose from a vacuum to suck some negative pressure through the top hole while covering the bottom hole . waited 24 hrs, slapped it back on. Still working and that was 15 years ago.
using the vacuum is a smart idea. Im about to attempt a fix on my Ram rad and going to use this technique
Heat up the substrate and then let the substrate melt the rod. That way, it will bond to the substrate. If you heat the rod directly on a substrate that is cooler than the rod, you just leave melted, unbonded rod boogers on the substrate. Oh, and clean stainless steel only brush to clean for aluminum soldering. Give it a shot the next time an “opportunity” arises. Enjoy the videos.
Does aluminium soldering really work? Why does my local car radiator repair specialist tell me that aluminium cannot be soldered?
You know better then most, as that's exactly what heat he did. Lol
@@amana1480 , yes it certainly does work, but its not soldering aluminum, its aluminum Brazing.
Electrical solder does not bond to aluminum I have gotten some Flux that is supposed to make it work I don't think I tried it yet but there are definitely things that do work
Ya I was thinking he hasn't really soldered or anything like that much before
I believe your issue with welding was that you didn't get the radiator material in the area you were welding up to temp in order to melt. Welding requires melting the metal, not just the stick. A weld ends up being stronger usually than the original material around it because of the quick melt and cooling process.
No the problem is he didn't use flux. Soldered isn't worth a shit unless you use flux
i fixed a crack in my BMW 330ci radiator with JB Weld - took a few shots but I now have a fantastic formula I recommend:
1. Get your engine warm and examine where the leak is.
2. Release the pressure and drain the coolant while it is still warm/mildly hot, but not too hot that when you seal the cooling system, it isn't blowing steam or air out of the hole you're trying to fix.
3. Once it isn't spitting but still warm - THEN apply the JB Weld and leave it for a few hours.
Applyig it while the tank is still hot causes the glue to be drawn into the hole, caused by the internal vacuum when the hot air cools and returns from its exanded state.
Exactly the same as when you fill an airtight tupperware with hot food and seal the lid while your food is still hot. By the time it's closed there's a vacuum inside ;)
When your brazing Steel you have to get the steel hot enough to Glow red and basically have the brazing rod in a nearby vicinity so it's hot but not hot enough to melt. Then you basically melt the brazing rod into the steel. I think that principal with aluminum is going to be very very difficult with aluminum aluminum because you're going to have a really hard time seeing it get hot. I would suggest something that would melt at a much lower temperature perhaps acid core Plumbing solder with lots of extra flux. I remember also that you need to have a special wire brush for aluminum only because if you use a wire brush that was used on something else it will actually contaminate the aluminum badly enough to give you issues
keep in mind this is not steel but aluminum. to hot will start melting the radiator. but not enough will not bond
The reason the solder didnt hold was because you got the rod hot and melted, but the radiator wasn't hot enough. Get the radiator hot to where the rod melts without direct heat and it'll work.
Hi Josh, I've fixed similar radiators with acid core solder. Always worked for me. I'm like you I always try to fix things myself. I research stuff too. Normally You Tube is the best way to start your search. I learn a lot from your channel which is why I subscribed. You can also get flux core solder which I believe is what you use on copper water lines.
I watched a news story where farmers are hacking the John Deere software so they can fix their tractors instead of paying big $$$ for repairs at the dealer. Tractors are supposed to be made so they can be easily fixed in the field..not having to be hauled to a dealer.
Supposedly John Deere owns the rights to the computers and other stuff on their tractors.
That was part of the story...so the farmers were using Russian software to replace the original.
There is a lawsuit pertaining to that in progress... ALL tractor companies, not just John Deere, are being sued due to this.. When it costs $3500 just to HAUL a machine to a dealer because a farmer cannot even look up a code or fix a small broken wire, it is a huge problem.. These companies are ripping off farmers big time...
JD was lobbying congress to pass laws making it illegal to repair your own equipment. I bought a salvaged tractor that was supposedly flooded. Got a good deal, purged the fuel, lubricant and hydraulic systems. Fired right up. Then it was implements, proprietary issues! Found a local company manufacturing implements "comparable" with JD. JD has tried and failed to shut the locals guys down claiming intellectual ownership, the judge disagreed.
@@michaeldubya What's the current status, 5 years later since your comment, of that local company making JD compatible implements?
My 2 bits: All of the lobbying that has lit businesses get consolidated into the handful of corporations that run everything just shows that government power creates corporate power. Shrink the one to shrink the other.
Whether it's unfixable mechanical equipment like tractors or cars, unrepairable electronics, "terminator" seeds: bunch of POS corps using regulatory capture against the public.
Any hand wringing about "Big Govt gonna push it too far one of these days!" Seems pretty dang limp-rested from my view if people are supporting parties and candidates that are all for letting corporations run them over.
The only folks in DC that have any teeth against JD and other companies happen to also be the folks in DC consistently pushing for less government. Shrink the one to shrink the other. That's how this whole thing was meant to be from the get-go.
Hey. When you braze with aluminium you have to heat what is being brazed up (the radiator) and use that heat to melt the aluminium rod otherwise it will fail as yours did because you used the torch to melt the aluminium and it then went onto a colder surface being the radiator. If the radiator had have been heated to the temperature necessary to melt the rod it would have bonded properly.
Hi Josh. It’s great when you can fix it yourself. It’s not just the money it’s the education and satisfaction of doing things yourself. Wooooo
Just like with soldering copper plumbing pipes, heating the material to be brazed is the way to go - not the actual rod. Flux coated rods may have helped, too, but I think application of enough heat to the radiator and some practice* would've helped you.
Meh - at least you're cutting grass now right? Hope your repair holds up!
*I once repaired some small rips in my truck bed with brass (bronze?) brazing rods and MAPP gas. Took me four or five whole rods to learn how to do it right, but I finally got it. Isn't something you just pick up and do right first shot.
Plzzzz tell me you're single because any man that can admit AND video his mistake/failure (plan A) is the MAN for me. Awesome!!! Oh and thank you for helping me hopefully fix a my issue today!♥️
You almost got it my friend with the alumirod. You need to get the core hotter. Dont put the heat on the rod. You want to heat the core and let the alumirod suck into the heated area. On a small section that pretty hard. I think if you would have left the heat on there a little longer after you got the glob of alumirod it would have worked. The alumirod actually melts at a lower melting point than actual aluminum. I know when the tiny fins started to melt/worp it might have made you a little guns shy.
But in the end fixed is fixed. Great Job!!! I think I would have put blue loctite on but thats just me. God Bless
My thoughts exactly. I would have really heated the core up before adding the ALum rod. It's like copper pipes. Heat up the pipes first, then it'll suck the silver solder right into the joint. PROVIDED the inside of the pipe is dry. If it's just built up steam/moisture, it ain't never gonna seal.
Thanks for giving me the confidence to fix my bike radiator. Whooooo!!
believe it or not, this is still holding! However....on a motorcycle, I'd buy a new one. You don't wanna be 50 miles from home and have a problem....I'm always home with the zero turn
Good job. Need the metal in a pool or molten state before adding filler, rod. It’s not easy. You had a molten rod sitting on a cool surface, sort of a cold lap. I like to think of it like having two cups of water then pouring both into a basin, they become 1 lot of water like a weld making a strong bond. God job again
This brazing, not welding. If you get a pool of molten aluminum with a torch, you've already destroyed the part you wanted to fix.
Just a couple of helpful hints from a small engine service tech, when starting your machine try full choke and maybe a quarter throttle, this would most likely keep it from over fueling and backfireing (also I think your valves need a little adjustment) I also noticed you shut the engine off at full throttle. Always idle any engine down before shutdown, this will eliminate kick back of the engine and possibly shearing the flywheel key. That radiator is most likely the same one as the JD rider you got from your uncle, worth a look.
Thank you, my friend. Excellent video. I've learned something new and greatly appreciate it.
Hi, I know you have this job fixed already. I was a machinist and gear cutter for many years. Back in the day probably 20 or so years ago, perhaps a bit more i remember when aluminum solder first came count and we picked some up to fix a few little jobs before we got picked up a TIG welder. We actually had someone teach us how to use this kind of solder. Just wanted to pass some things on that we were taught by the mfg of the particular product we used. I see someone mentioned the stainless steel brush, the iron in a steel brush does contaminate your surface. No flux, back to the contamination. The biggest help we had was we were shown that practice was the best medicine for aluminum soldering was to practice on a soda pop can. It’s thin,and you can get the feel of how hot and the make it so that the solder to flow onto the parent metal filling in the holes instead of globing it on as you did and so did we in the beginning. Clean the part off with the stainless brush, spray with your brake clean or starting fluid, brush it again, and solder right away. You will have to keep using your brush because aluminum will oxide right away again so little at a time. Hope this helps. Love your site, we only discovered it a sort time ago, but have enjoyed the new videos, and going thru the older ones. I grew up on a ranch and we are looking to find a piece of property and want to get back to the more simple life and away from the big city. Thanks again and keep up the good work, brings back fond memories :)
Next time clean the aluminum even better, you may need flux. Once you get the little globs on the hole continue heating it until it flows. Watch some vids on brazing aluminum ac coils. Keep up the great vids!
I would strongly recommend NOT using brake cleaner, and instead use carb cleaner. If you touch off any residual brake cleaner, it will create phosgene gas which can seriously injure or kill.
Every can of brake cleaner I ever used was not flamable.
@@allywilkeforsenate Flammability isn't the issue, creating an extremely toxic gas that can and will kill you is.
@@allywilkeforsenate flammable just means it can cause fire (flames) phosgene is a gas and doesn't kill by burning, but by inhalation.
As an aside my brother and I have been working on a Scag Magnum 3 mower. Every little piece you need is at least $70. The muffler.. $320!!!, haven't priced a radiator for it but a single pulley was $70, they're so expensive because usually these are used by commercial entities with deep pockets.
Hey do you want to know were to get parts for scag cheap
For cheap? No unless you can find the part you need on eBay. I got lucky and scored a replacement brand new fan (was a kubota part not a Scag part) on ebay for cheap. For everything else we ordered from Scag OEM Parts. AKA Shank's Lawn Equipment. They were able to get us that pulley we needed. Which was a one-off part only made for the Magnum 3. (which is a 20 year old design). I imagine for a Turf Tiger, or any of their newer designs the parts are more easily had and are likely in stock. My advise is to not only get the part number off of the manual for your mower but make a close visual inspection of the part as well. They're pretty good about having pictures on their website.
Josh Harris yes! I want to know. Do tell.
lance henthorn everything on a scag is rebuiltable so go to your local Napa to get the parts but you can also go to www.partstree.com
Josh Harris ... check out propartsdirect.com
for the ones that have plastic tanks take a oil bottle caps the ring on the bottom of the cap can be used with the torch you were using to fix cracks in the tank just melt it in the crack had some show me that on a car i had last as long as i had car
JB weld has served me well over the years. Nice job
Love the enthusiasm on wanting to do it on your own. Just a little info for the memory banks, for a quick temporary fix maybe just to help finish mowing black pepper might of worked, also there is a product called Bars stop leak for radiators, it works on small holes, also JB Weld makes a putty type material that you roll in your hands for aluminum that would work also. Never seen the epoxy for metal. Learn something new everyday. As always great video.
The jb weld shit sucks I tried it doesn't hold even on small holes... It's not dense enough too porous...
Great video my friend. What I like the most about it what your enthusiasm, keep it up. It’s the way to learn and put on practice new things some time young man. May God bless you and your family and farm. Keep on doing the great things. Blessings
You are right about this gouge In this greedy world we live in, my good man.
Hi, nice video. I knew the soldering wouldn't hold, no offense. The problem was that you didn't bring the radiator core up to temperature. When soldering you want the solder to melt into the base metal. One big factor is the melting temp of each. As with anything else, they may be just different enough that the radiator coil may melt first which isn't good. Also the radiator core is thinner than the solder rod. One other thing I just thought of is, you may have been able to keep heating the solder you had on there until you saw it melt into the radiator core. Its a touchy thing to try to do. As a jeweler, it would have been best to have the small oxy/acetone torch which enables you to put the most heat to a tiny area. I soldered gold to silver and had to concentrate the heat on the silver because the heat travels through the entire piece where the gold's heat is localized. Heat up a gold and silver rod and see how long you can hold onto each. Thanks for sharing.
You could have brazed it with that aluminum rod. You just needed to heat the fin more , then touch the rod to it until it melts into the radiator fin. Then you're brazing. What you were doing was just melting rod onto the radiator which was not hot enough for for it. It should all flow together. You're also doing the epoxy wrong. What you want to do is get a large syringe and a large bore needed. Pull the plunger out of the syringe, mix up the epoxy and pour it into the syringe. Put the plunger back in the syringe, put the large bore needle on the syringe. Pump the epoxy into the hole in the radiator fin. Pump alot in so the fin is completely filled in that area and also maybe a half inch either way on the inside. You get an "A" for effort !
epoxy has held for 4 years now buddy
Good job. I just replaced mine in our 97 4Runner but the plastic top had a huge crack in it. Only cost $179 at Autozone. John Dear has crazy prices.
Hope you ran an external cooler for the trans. They are notorious for mixing antifreeze and trans oil
What type of brush did you use? The aluminum gets contaminated if you use a steel brush. You need to use a stainless steel or aluminum wire brush.
or brass.
JOB well done Josh, I used that epoxy on an outside water spigot 15 years ago and is still holding...lol.😁
The first method do it almost as if you were soldering copper pipe. Aluminum cools down a lot faster though so you gotta heat up tubing, rub rod see if it melts, if not keep heating and then rub again ... Until it actually melts and stays on the tubing....gotta be done quick though after you remove flame because aluminum coold down right away.
Great information Josh! Hey! When you're finished there I have some grass that needs mowed! Lol!
I’ve repaired coils by pinching the holes closed and using a solder gun and soft solder, using flux of course
I took out the radiator in my 07 Yaris, not that easy on compact cars, I just squeezed the tabs where the plastic meets the metal (leaked there)so far no leaks.
Cool!
Proprietary parts and software is a real big problem with John Deere and other tractor makes. I saw where there is a movement in big farm states to actually legislate an end to this problem as farmers are having to pay huge sums for simple repairs. The same thing is going on to a degree with automotive repairs. Manufacturers think the consumer has bottomless pockets. Government is rarely the answer to any problem but they have set up a system to allow manufacturers to hold the consumer captive and now they need to be made to level the playing field.
What's going on with the price issue is someone has looked at the profits & decided that if the price was higher than more money would be made. This has resulted in less customer business & lower earnings which leads to someone,( office worker who receives profit based commission on top of salary ) to increase prices more & by doing so drives away customers. Need to look after the customer 1st, not make enemies.
They make an extension hose for the Mapp and Propane bottles that make soldering and brazing easy. Wooooo!
push the epoxy in with your finger and push some into the hole so some comes out on the inside to seal
regular silicone caulk is a great for keeping bolts from rattling loose, still can be removed afterwards
I used JB weld on my radiator and it worked Great for years and years. wooooooooooo!
I would say you needed a little more heat. Not much but just a little more so it would flow.
Great job,thanks for sharing it with us.
I know this video is a bit old now, but good try on saving some cash here. I run. Radiator Shop, and aluminum braze tubes similar to that all time, but its learn skill fir sure, thin aluminum it very delicate as the brazing temp and melting temp of the material is not far between, I rather see you under heat the job and it not stick then overheat it and ruin the rad. .
However if a JB weld repair fails and ends up in my shop for repair, it'll cost a bit extra as removing it is a major pain and it has to be burned off and smells horrible.
😂
Yep,got that right ! little priceyyyy. arm and leg for few alluminum rods
John Deere has prolly the largest parts network of any farm implement Co. therefore parts are higher, but there is usually one within a few miles of everyone. Service and Parts availability is something to consider when you need a part next day, or in some cases over the counter same day.
Yep...however $700 for a lawnmower radiator is ridiculous...in our world of e-commerce it doesn't matter where the stores are anymore...this is an outrageous proprietary John Deere rip off!
Well then... punctured a hole in rad last night while installing the cooling fan. Was going to braze ...but after seeing this, I'm sure to save mysef a lot of pissin and moanin and go with the alternative. Thanks!
You didn't get the "base metal"/ the radiator get hot enough before adding the filler wire. Try it on a soda can and practice getting it hot right before melting then add the wire.
Excellent on the close ups :)
Use some flux it will flow better try to chane to pin tipe adjustment on flame this is controled to exac area difrent tip for torch
thank looking for a place in victoria ,thats about the size where it is leaking
First off: If you are going to fill holes in aluminum with aluminum rod, you are welding.
The rod melted but the work did not.
What you had was akin to a cold solder joint.
You need the work area heated to the point of melting.
Welding aluminum is a skill that requires a great deal of practice.
Too much heat and you will blow a hole in your work much larger than what you were attempting to repair.
Second: With the Permatex steel.
Why did you break out the fins around the holes?
The fins would have given the Permatex much more area to adhere to.
Breaking out the fins could have cracked the coolant tubes and caused a bigger leak.
Third: If those housing bolts vibrated loose once, I would definitely locktite them for a little insurance.
Do hope your problem is solved.
$700 for that little radiator is highway robbery!!!
I agree. The surface needed to be heated to just the right temperature so that all you have to do is dip the rod onto it and it will melt and fill the holes (like lava, in a way). Instead, he was heating the tip of the rod until it dripped onto the surface. That is why it didn't hold. The surface wasn't hot enough. It is kinda tricky. I did learn something in high school 40 years ago. Now I have to put it to use to fix my own leaky radiator. Glad he got it fixed, though.
Nice to see others around with a bit more brazing knowledge, but patching leaks in aluminum cores it not a first try recommended idea, he was lucky, for he could have easily burned through the tubes beyond repair.
First! Its either rain or breakdowns, but the lawn aint getting mowed buddy!
You have to use Flux for solder to flow.
Esooo,, hablando Espanol Whooo whooo! Yeiii. Thanks it help to learn more. My Jeep radiator is leaking and I love changing the parts from my car DIY. I am going back to Cuba screaming I learn Mechanic on RUclips lol.
Darn that radiator must be made by Rolls-Royce, and still has plastic end Tanks?
Wow!! Thank John Deere!! That’s a total and udder joke, $600 for that! I don’t blame you one bit Josh, thanks for showing us all, this repair and filling us in on the GREAT JOHN DEERE!
No flux on your first try anhelps to use aluminum mess screen should help it seal better cause the flux and the screen will reinforce the strength of the patch
It is so funny I wound up here, as soon as I saw the John Deere in the back I knew why this video was made. Our green paint radiator for our Gator 2020a is wait for it.....$887.50. That Deer has some pretty big balls pricing a part that should cost at most $300 at close to a grand.
Good job josh, I replaced the radiator in my Jeep Cherokee today.
LOL!! Your first mistake was buying a John Deere! Secondly I was born north of Asheville in Mitchell County! John Deere probably doesn’t make the mower! John Deere = $$$$ ... great video though! I like your spirit!
mate..cut a sheet of metal put a hole in it, make sure a little bit larger ..act as a shield and placed on the hole to be weld..mees will be avoided
I used epoxy on the plastic side of a radiator before. Sealed up great and had no further leaks for the rest of the time I owned that car. About a year. I don’t know how much longer it lasted after that.
I hope this lasts...so far so good..been 4 hours on the mower with no issues
Lol Man hahah that welding was a little wild. Hahah Nice video man that was ku. I've solder electrical components, but I never welded. Lol
You can always have one made or cross reference to a small car radiator before buying a $700 dollar replacement. I mean radiators are not that specific that you can't use something from another product.
$700 for that Mini Mouse Radiator 😯😯😯😯😯 Hellll Nawww That's When I DIY skills Kick in 😂😂
What are the SN on the motor not the mower
if the brake cleaner you are using contains Tetrachloroethylene you should not use it for cleaning stuff you are going to heat up because it breaks down and produces phosgene gas when you heat it
Thanks for the tip
lol im watching your video now because my kubota tractor has a small hole in the rad.....and they want 650 for it lol appreciate the video
Would you be able to buy a small car radiator and just match the one closest to that radiator?
At 8:15 you can see how you pushed the rod on the aluminum and you laid "chunks" on the 3 holes. If you got it a little hotter, probably 10 more seconds, I should have melted to the touch (without force) and it would have worked. Nonetheless, great video and keep on wrenching.
Thank you! Gonna try this myself.
Thanks for sharing. I did the same thing many years ago on an old car and it held up. See ya on the next one.
If you would have put a little flux on there before you started with that brazing rod it would have held brother. FYI
Hey Josh could you possibly tell me in 50 degree weather driving at night how long would it take a Toyota Camry to run hot with a hole puncture in the radiator
John Deere: You can buy better, but you can't pay more! : ) Aluminum radiators are internally plastic coated. You really can't weld them.
You sing your own theme song. Subscribed for that alone. Although, the video was helpful too.
life is way to short not to have fun right!
You could use flux core plumbers solder ,
Clean
damage area of aluminium radiator
then coat area with copper sulphate solution,
Let dry apply heat and use flux cored plumbers solder,
and you find you can tin and solder area of rad puncture
The ATOM thick coating of copper left by drying ,
Copper sulphate,, and you should get a very good fix,
This works on tin/lead soldering on steel sheet as well buckets pails tin baths water tanks
Should work well on car rad aluminium core,
Plumbers flux core solder
/Copper .Sulphate crystals dissolve in to @ 30% /75% to distilled water.
in a glass jar
Heat gun capable of 400c heat, paint stripper gun with narrow nozzle works if not outside in wind, ,
Tip you must clean area and then copper sulphated in matter of sec , You must let it dry, BEFORE HEATING AND APPLYING FLUX AND SOLDER,,,, COPPER SULPHATE LEAVE A VERY FINE COPPER METAL COAT ON ITEM AS IT DRYS,
that lets solder bond to base metal,
NOTE JUST REMEMBER PLASTIC ITEMS CLOSE TO HEAT AREA,
DONT USE THIS METHOD TO FIX IF CLOSER ,
THEN 5/6 INCHES TO SIDES OF RAD.
HEAT GUN SPREADS HEAT
FOR ALUMINUM RAD
THIS WILL MELT RADS PLASTIC ENDS RUBBER/CORK SEAL,
i think that should have been repaired as a recall from John Deere. those bolts coming loose is clearly a defect.
old mower....things like this happen...bummer but it happens
Thanks for the video, Josh!
Nice repair ! How's the bacon and hams in the smoke house ?
You pay big green for parts for your green machine. Green paint is the most expensive color
Hey Josh, great video. If you try braising again, throw some flux on it first.
John Deere Rant.... COST OF PARTS. thats why I own New Holland and Kubota.
haha whats sad is 700$ isn't even that bad to me. Working on bigger equipment is a nightmare when it comes to repairs. All dealers have some kind of monopoly on repairs to some degree. Newer equipment is really bad for this which is why all of our equipment is around a decade old. We had a leak in the radiator on our combine, and it was a complex fix with a few hoses and gaskets blown too, so my dad took it to john Deere, they "fixed" it and we were charged 5000$. We went back to cutting and about an hour later the machine was overheating again. Turns out the problem was not fixed, someone at John Deere had used a power washer to clean it and flatted all the vents on one side. so the radiator got really hot. We got the radiator rebuilt in the city for 3000 and put it back in ourselves.
Wow, $8k to fix a rad problem. I want to fix my MF750 rad. A new core is worth $1700. You must have one heck of rad there.
Will it work on the plastic part of a cars radiator?
Good videos as always
had similar problem with JD mower trans-axle. JD price $859.... after market price $300.
Silver solder is the best was I have found.
I use fire retardant silicone red to seal and lock tight on hot items and concrete anchor silicone adhesive on cold. Wet items. Hardware stores
the map gas idea would have worked fine if you had done it correctly. The idea is like soldering. get the rad hot enough that the rod flows without the torch on it. Blobbing it on as you did repair won't stick.
Hi.... Thank you 🎥👍👍👍
Do not weld or solder after cleaning with brake clean it puts out a poisonous gas one of the welding sites had a bunch of warnings about that.
Dam thats freaking ridiculous! Appreciate the vid though. I currently have a similar issue on my F 150. Thx a million
Everything is all good but you forgot to apply the flux while brazing it will stick it good you have plan B & C
John Deere is notorious for not securing all of the bolts and everything else. Lol
i would have ordered a racing aluminum racing radiator for a ford pinto and make it work lol
You need to use flux if you want it to stick
McGuyver it with Big Red chewing gum and duct tape....lol....for real I did fix a radiator hose on my Hummer in Desert Storm that way...