There's a product outhere called High side red epoxy ,(2 part epoxy)much easier to repair small refrigerant leaks & you can use a heat gun. Works great for low & high side it can handle up to 3000 psi Temperature -100 -300 degrees
I'm not convinced about gluing the new disipators, that doesn't seem to be realiable for thermal conduction, seem more like just a cosmetic fix to me. probably doesn't matter considering the overall size of that radiator, but surely matters on small radiators.
Not once have I found a leak in such an easy spot to fix. Most of them don't even have enough space to fit pliers in straight! And believe me, if they aren't parallel with the channel, you will create a leak in the adjacent channel. Have also come across some systems that have leaked out their charge and have been left unnoticed for up to a year, resulting in 5-6 vacuum pump oil changes through the evacuation process to get below 500 microns due to moisture accumulation.. have never had that issue with copper and I've poured water out of copper condensers. Let alone the rate in which aluminum oxidizes compared to copper. Oil changes in hermetic compressors is gonna become a requirement of a p/m contract
Alittle tip for ya --- use dry nitrogen pressure tests and flow dry nitrogen through a unit a few times to Help gather up the moisture. dry nitrogen helps alot ! vacuum for a bit, then dry nitrogen Pressure to 100 psi, then dump the dry nitrogen from the unit, then evac for a bit more . i have flowed a whole bottle of dry nitrogen through systems to pick up the moisture it works good. nitrogen is dry so it grabs onto moisture . speeds evacuation time alot. hope it helps u in the future. dry nitrogen flow while welding also helps make for a fast evacuation time.
@@PietriGuitars Wouldn’t it be better to have the system in some type of positive pressure when spraying liquid water in open area of a refrigeration system? Or should we just be careless and dump a whole gallon in it because the vacuum will boil it?
@@PietriGuitars Never purposely put water in a refrigeration system. You are just making more work for yourself and it will require a much longer evacuation time to get it all out.
@@kBen1986 if you don't wash out the nearby tubing, the oil will bubble out when heated, ruining the solder site. That's the other reason for repeatedly drying and washing again, you must remove all fluid and residual oil from the inner surface.
Aluminum materials are very sensitive and more time to prepare for repair... And then after a days same problem is there.... We solve sa problem by replacing new aluminum fins coil and copper tube coil.. Its all and aluminum fins to copper coil are easy to repair...
When done, flush the coil out with water- don't worry, just pull a vacuum for a week or so.~~~ I might use a soapy damp rag, but I'm NOT spraying the hole with water!! A dry carburetor cleaner pray might be better.?
My radiator has the very dented fins on some pontoons it does not have! I would like to make the repair more I do not think here in Brazil! where can I find. thank you
YOu want to have Dry nitrogen coming out of THat hole while u are soaping and washing to Keep the water from entering the Coil. Letting soap or water go in the hole is NOT Ok !
Often MCHX producer are using automotive design that are very different from HVAC needs. Often MCHX producers are fighting to reduce costs using less and less material. The effect is that MCHX cores are too light, with thin tubes.. easy to damage. To avoid this tipe of leakage is very important to buy from the right MCHX producer.
Hi there, we are not in the automotive industry, so we cannot speak to what they do. In many warranty situations, we offer to replace the coil. Repair instructions are offered as an alternative due to concerns our dealers had to offer a quick effective repair without waiting for parts. We try to use the best quality products in our equipment. Sometimes damage to coils can’t be helped. MCHX can be repaired using this method.
Thanks for your comment! Due to higher pressures of refrigerant in the heating cycle, soldering is the best option. This procedure is recommended by the manufacture of the heat exchanger.
I was wondering that myself....also that the replacement fins didn't make contact with the refrigerant tube at the top. But like they said, it's a very small percentage compared to all the remaining fins. I looked up Loctite 430, it says it's especially suited for bonding metal substrates but makes no mention of its ability to conduct heat. I'd rather see those replacement fins a little larger vertically and making contact with the refrigerant tube.
@@jeremy49988 From what ive read loctite 430 is good for up to 200 degrees and even at that temperature isnt the breaking point its the point at which it begins to lose some of its hold.
All-aluminum microchannel air coils are used because they eliminate the potential for failure due to corrosion and increase the unit's life expectancy.
WoW Ridiculous amount of detailed work, to "fix/repair" these inferior coils. You Know their crap coils when they tell you "DON'T PUMP DOWN COND BC IT WILL BLOW/CREATE DAMAGE TO THE COND COILS N CREATE LEAKS"
@@user-xk5so7wb2t probably because the coils are long and narrow hot dog cross section and not circular. The long walls would probably collapse under vacuum.
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There's a product outhere called High side red epoxy ,(2 part epoxy)much easier to repair small refrigerant leaks & you can use a heat gun.
Works great for low & high side it can handle up to 3000 psi
Temperature -100 -300 degrees
I'm not convinced about gluing the new disipators, that doesn't seem to be realiable for thermal conduction, seem more like just a cosmetic fix to me. probably doesn't matter considering the overall size of that radiator, but surely matters on small radiators.
@@PietriGuitars you'd probably end up with a half-melted mess.
I mean, if the glue itself is thermally conductive, then nothing really changes.
Not once have I found a leak in such an easy spot to fix. Most of them don't even have enough space to fit pliers in straight! And believe me, if they aren't parallel with the channel, you will create a leak in the adjacent channel. Have also come across some systems that have leaked out their charge and have been left unnoticed for up to a year, resulting in 5-6 vacuum pump oil changes through the evacuation process to get below 500 microns due to moisture accumulation.. have never had that issue with copper and I've poured water out of copper condensers. Let alone the rate in which aluminum oxidizes compared to copper. Oil changes in hermetic compressors is gonna become a requirement of a p/m contract
Alittle tip for ya --- use dry nitrogen pressure tests and flow dry nitrogen through a unit a few times to Help gather up the moisture. dry nitrogen helps alot ! vacuum for a bit, then dry nitrogen Pressure to 100 psi, then dump the dry nitrogen from the unit, then evac for a bit more . i have flowed a whole bottle of dry nitrogen through systems to pick up the moisture it works good. nitrogen is dry so it grabs onto moisture . speeds evacuation time alot. hope it helps u in the future. dry nitrogen flow while welding also helps make for a fast evacuation time.
Great video , what's is the liquid type, during pre heating the coil
And where does on get replacement air fin??? I've looked everywhere...
Good job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I like when he continues dumping water at the leak. Let’s try and get water in the system as much as possible. Residential mindset.
@@PietriGuitars Wouldn’t it be better to have the system in some type of positive pressure when spraying liquid water in open area of a refrigeration system? Or should we just be careless and dump a whole gallon in it because the vacuum will boil it?
@@PietriGuitars Never purposely put water in a refrigeration system. You are just making more work for yourself and it will require a much longer evacuation time to get it all out.
Clean out the oil as best as you can. Otherwise the solder will ball up and you will have a charred mess that leaks.
@@kBen1986 if you don't wash out the nearby tubing, the oil will bubble out when heated, ruining the solder site. That's the other reason for repeatedly drying and washing again, you must remove all fluid and residual oil from the inner surface.
Thanks sir
very very good knowledge sir
👌👍🙏🏻🙏🏻
Aluminum materials are very sensitive and more time to prepare for repair... And then after a days same problem is there....
We solve sa problem by replacing new aluminum fins coil and copper tube coil.. Its all and aluminum fins to copper coil are easy to repair...
thank you so much, very helpful
Top jio nice very nice Kolkata very good 💥💥💥💥💥💥
Thank you very much sir,
Which brazing rod and flux are you used please inform for unknown person or me
From Ahmedabad. India
Hi Binesh, There are probably several brands on the market. It’s an aluminum flux core braze rod.
When done, flush the coil out with water- don't worry, just pull a vacuum for a week or so.~~~
I might use a soapy damp rag, but I'm NOT spraying the hole with water!! A dry carburetor cleaner pray might be better.?
What is the point of removing the fins ??? The whole is clearly visible and repairable without having to remove them .
Good luck not melting the fins when applying heat.
Hola una consulta, donde consigo él aletado nuevo para sellar la reparación?
How about when you get the leak in the middle of tube
Cool undercut temperature for
Where I will get spare fins?
My radiator has the very dented fins on some pontoons it does not have! I would like to make the repair more I do not think here in Brazil! where can I find. thank you
YOu want to have Dry nitrogen coming out of THat hole while u are soaping and washing to Keep the water from entering the Coil. Letting soap or water go in the hole is NOT Ok !
Yes, I cringed when he sprayed inside the hole.
LoL make a video repair without cleaning the inside of the tubing, and see how that works for you!
Thanks Sarge 🖕🏿
Where r the refrigerant tubes? I can only see the fins.
أخي الكريم الحمهة فافون مايحتاج تؤخر المشع
What if we cut only bad fins from rediator
mine came banged up in one area, with shipment, the fins were affected. Should i send it back or will it work
The coil shouldn’t be affected by a few dents in the coil. Unless there is a refrigerant leak, I would not replace.
Thanks!
I belive it is possible to tig weld such a kind of problem
This has no impact on dissipating the heat beside the decorating it.
Thank you for your comment. The main purpose is repairing a leak.
I think it is new one ,old coil corrosion many place,that how can,tell me remedy
Where do you get the replacement air fin?
-
I want to know
It comes with the repair kit
What type of spray paint is the best for corrosion protection? May be it is Alu-Zinc primer?
I will need it aluminum blazing rod
9725803731
A única coisa complicada e o cliente pagar pelo conserto,ainda mais no Rio de janeiro,do tem malandro r miseráveis.
Often MCHX producer are using automotive design that are very different from HVAC needs. Often MCHX producers are fighting to reduce costs using less and less material. The effect is that MCHX cores are too light, with thin tubes.. easy to damage. To avoid this tipe of leakage is very important to buy from the right MCHX producer.
Hi there, we are not in the automotive industry, so we cannot speak to what they do. In many warranty situations, we offer to replace the coil. Repair instructions are offered as an alternative due to concerns our dealers had to offer a quick effective repair without waiting for parts. We try to use the best quality products in our equipment. Sometimes damage to coils can’t be helped. MCHX can be repaired using this method.
where to buy that fins
Tell me what was that u spary on coil plz reply
Aluminium coil better hai....ya copper coil
Copper coil best
Top gostei do vídeo vou fazer na minha moto
Di mana mau beli aliminium utuk welding radiataor
try it with 550psi in 127° heat, this doesn't work in the field
I now seeing video I agree don't work
How to purchase
that's AC rediter or water raditer
Welding rode name please
Top
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
When out in the field, just bend / crimp it. Cut off the flow of coolant in that cooling line.
Thanks for your comment! Due to higher pressures of refrigerant in the heating cycle, soldering is the best option. This procedure is recommended by the manufacture of the heat exchanger.
It is not a radiator bro
ممتاز
السلام عليكم . سؤال اخي ما الفائدة كم القطعه المعدنيه المربعه لمادا تتم تغطيه جوانب المكان المراد لحامه . انا لا افهم لانجليزي.
حتى تتركز النار على مكان اللحام فقط ولا تتآكل الاجزاء الرقيقة من زعانف المكثف او المبرد
بارك الله بيك وجعلها في ميزان حسانتك .
راح نص العمرو
हिंदी मे वीडियो बनाए
Is super glue conducting heat to the pipe ? What a crap ...
its thermal paste u turd licker....
I was wondering that myself....also that the replacement fins didn't make contact with the refrigerant tube at the top. But like they said, it's a very small percentage compared to all the remaining fins. I looked up Loctite 430, it says it's especially suited for bonding metal substrates but makes no mention of its ability to conduct heat. I'd rather see those replacement fins a little larger vertically and making contact with the refrigerant tube.
@@jeremy49988 From what ive read loctite 430 is good for up to 200 degrees and even at that temperature isnt the breaking point its the point at which it begins to lose some of its hold.
Use thermal epoxy if you want, but don't even need to replace the small section of fins. it's negligible in overall effect.
Mày làm phức tạp thế hả em
WhatsApp timing problem
ما اسم اللحام
Un vrai boulot d'amateur !!! C'est loin d'être une réparation propre et de qualité.
😂😂😂 which aluminium was already ok. you are damage the below forged.😂😂😂😂
Not a fan of micro chanel
Hello brother
Materials detial give bro
microchannel type condensers suck!
All-aluminum microchannel air coils are used because they eliminate the potential for failure due to corrosion and increase the unit's life expectancy.
وطريقه فاشله
why not make with copper??
$$$$$$$$$$
That's why
Planned obsolescence is why..
Ryan D
😂😂😂😂😂
I get boom from the microphone. Uncomfortable to watch the video, so I discontinued after first 45 seconds.
WoW Ridiculous amount of detailed work, to "fix/repair" these inferior coils. You Know their crap coils when they tell you "DON'T PUMP DOWN COND BC IT WILL BLOW/CREATE DAMAGE TO THE COND COILS N CREATE LEAKS"
Actually, these coils are highly reliable. We have less than a 1% fail rate so less failures than your typical tube & fin coils
@@johnpendleton7243Interesting. When why cant they hold a simple pump down? bc label stated "Do Not Pump Down"
@@johnpendleton7243 also they were kinda ok when the R22 (lower Head pressures) in around. R410a pressures, Look out
@@user-xk5so7wb2t probably because the coils are long and narrow hot dog cross section and not circular. The long walls would probably collapse under vacuum.
There isn't enough volume to store the refrigerant!. It is a fraction of the tubing on plate fin coils.
These coils are trash
Just don’t buy the piece of shit microchannel and you won’t have to repair it !
so he made more dents in the process? ref.
hurt dur vents can be bent straight