if you are worried about your door clearance you could add some 10" C-Channel to the whole length of the trailer the web on 10" C-Channel should give you an additional 2" of clearance which I think is all you need for your door clearances to be comfortable and my eyeball math (as a welder) says that if you trim that 2.00" of channel off across 24.00" you should have around 5 degree's of incline which *** should *** be in line with even longer ramps. Seeing as you have a welder you may want to make your own ramps for your purposes as well.
This is good insight. My long-term plan was to either cut off the end of the trailer and add a longer dovetail or just extend it. Building ramps works but anything longer than 7' would have to be stored on the deck and I like getting them out of the way underneath.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds If you use 12.00" C-Channel with a 3.00" Web I am fairly certain 10.00" with a 2.00" Web will fit under it. Add some hinges or a coped cover to it. Then you can store your ramps under the 3.00", and your ramps can be almost as long as the trailer bed. Personally I wouldn't do the hinge's, I'd make a bolt on cover plate with a pair of tabs on either side, when in use snug them down, to drive on. Pop the 2 bolts off on either side slide your ramps back in torque them down. Now your ramps are out of site and you can use the area under your trailer to store an extra trailer tire or a small dedicated toolbox.
don't need 10 foot ramps just find an incline area you can even make the ramps level depending the area you find. ofc you'll have to unload it the same way but honestly not hard to find usually.
You’re correct that would work well. I could use my driveway to aid in loading but for me I always load and unload on level ground at the racetrack which necessitates the longer ramps.
Great assistant! 😊 very optimistic :)
I think so too!
Amazing home garage setup you got there and it's so nice to see your son and you bonding over car stuff! Happy New Year to both of you! :)
@@Sk8er1337 thanks! I’m really enjoying both of them becoming young men. Happy New Year and thanks for the comment.
Looking forward to seeing it at the track!
It's gonna be an exciting year!
Well CB&CB had nice views of the peaks and valleys and the food was good too! Senor taco wasn't bad either
Thats rad. Sounds like it was a good trip! I have been all over the valley the past week. Hope you enjoyed the weather:-)
if you are worried about your door clearance you could add some 10" C-Channel to the whole length of the trailer the web on 10" C-Channel should give you an additional 2" of clearance which I think is all you need for your door clearances to be comfortable and my eyeball math (as a welder) says that if you trim that 2.00" of channel off across 24.00" you should have around 5 degree's of incline which *** should *** be in line with even longer ramps.
Seeing as you have a welder you may want to make your own ramps for your purposes as well.
This is good insight. My long-term plan was to either cut off the end of the trailer and add a longer dovetail or just extend it. Building ramps works but anything longer than 7' would have to be stored on the deck and I like getting them out of the way underneath.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds If you use 12.00" C-Channel with a 3.00" Web I am fairly certain 10.00" with a 2.00" Web will fit under it. Add some hinges or a coped cover to it. Then you can store your ramps under the 3.00", and your ramps can be almost as long as the trailer bed. Personally I wouldn't do the hinge's, I'd make a bolt on cover plate with a pair of tabs on either side, when in use snug them down, to drive on. Pop the 2 bolts off on either side slide your ramps back in torque them down. Now your ramps are out of site and you can use the area under your trailer to store an extra trailer tire or a small dedicated toolbox.
don't need 10 foot ramps just find an incline area you can even make the ramps level depending the area you find. ofc you'll have to unload it the same way but honestly not hard to find usually.
You’re correct that would work well. I could use my driveway to aid in loading but for me I always load and unload on level ground at the racetrack which necessitates the longer ramps.